Istanbul september 2011

studytrip

1 welcome to Istanbul is an extreme busy city with a well of culture and history. The architecture of Istanbul describes a large mixture of structures which reflect the many influences that have made an indelible mark in all districts of the city. The city is somewhat surrounded by the Walls of , constructed by the emperor Constantine I to protect the city from invasion. The architecture inside the city proper contains buildings, statues, and functional constructions which came from ancient ancient Greek, Byzantine, Genoese, Ottoman, and modern Turkish sources. Throughout its long history, Istanbul has acquired a reputation for being a cultural and ethnic melting pot.

2 about istanbul

arriving 06 hotel 07 how to get there

program 09 timescedule 10 map Istanbul 12 - 26 historical buildings 27- 38 modern architecture content 39 Kadiköy area 40 Boat trip - Bosphorus

general information 42 getting around 44 tickets 45 contact information

3 With 15 million the population of Istanbul and its emerging city region is one of the largest in South-East Europe. Geographically situated on two narrow peninsulas separated by the Bospo- rus, the northern shores of either landmass are covered by ecologically sensitive forests, water catchments and reservoirs vital to the future of the city. Playing host to several civilizations and empires, Istanbul’s silhouette is defined by minarets, spires, columns and more and more tall build- about Istanbul ings. The historical peninsula sits at the inter- section of the Marmara Sea, the Bosporus and the . Istanbul is a city as beautiful as Venice or San Francisco, and, once you are away from the water, as brutal and ugly as any metropolis undergoing the trauma of warp speed urbaniza- tion. It is a place in which to sit under the shade of ancient pines and palm trees for a leisurely afternoon watching sun on water, looking out over the Bosporus. But also, in some parts, to

4 tread very carefully. Istanbul has as many layers of history beneath the foundations of its build- ings as any city in Europe. In 2010, it will be- come the European Cultural Capital.

Depending on how you count, Istanbul has been the capital city of three, or perhaps four, empires. It is still shaped by the surviving frag- ments of Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman civilizations. It has Orthodox Christian churches, Sunni mosques, and Sep- hardic synagogues. It has vast classical cis- terns, ring upon ring of ancient fortifications, souks and palaces. It also has desolate con- crete suburbs of extraordinary bleakness, urban terrorism, and a rootless, dispossessed under- class struggling to come to terms with city life.

5 Great location in Sultanahmet in walking distance of all Ast Hotel Istanbul major historical, and touristic attractions like Hagia So- Adress: Küçük Ayasofya Mah. phia, Topkapi Palace, the Egyptian Spice Bazaar and the Kadirga Liman Caddesi No:137/A Golden Horn. Küçükayasofya, Istanbul Telephone: +90 (212) 638 61 62 Breakfast is included E-mail: [email protected] wifi connection airconditioning bathroom in every room satellite tv, minibar and hairdryer

6 Maps

Istanbul,

My Notes

from airport It is possible to book an airport transfer to the hotel by contacting the hotel. From Ataturk airport: 1-3 persons 25 €, 4-8 persons 40 €.

Be aware of traffic and delays!!

Maps

Taxi Suburban train My Notes (banliyö treni) easy to find outside the quick alternative airport which brings you to Sirkeci station yellow coloured and from there take a taxi to the about 35 dollars to Sul- tanmhet area. The meter hotel (ca. 2,5 km). getting there and around is opened with 2.5 TRY and 1.40 per KM

around 25 min around 45 min

around The most convenient and extensive way to get around is by tram. Just 10 minutes walk away from the hotels door there is a station of the tramway, which is a fast and easy transportation to any part of the city. 7 program

8 sunday 18th monday 19th tuesday 20th wednesday 21th

0800 breakfast breakfast Tünel trip 0900 breakfast breakfast Istanbul tech. Guided tour Ünv. guiding - Santral Istanbul 1000 Topkapi palace Blue mosque - Fez-factory - Borusan music hall 1100 Aya Sofia

1200 Lunch at ITU

1300 Lunch Lunch Salt Beyoglu - Lunch exhibition center 1400 Basilica cistern Ferry trip visit to Mimarlar Bosphorus Tasarim architects 1500

1600 Ferry to the Asian side, Kadiköy 1700

1800

1900 Dinner Sultanahmet Dinner Dinner 2000 Kadiköy

9 1 - Top Kapi palace page 12 2 - page 14 3 - The Blue mosque page 16 4 - Basilica Cistern page 18 5 - Istanbul Modern page 28 6 - Grand Bazar page 25 7 - Kadiköy page 39 8 - Istanbul Sapphire page 36 9 - page 20 10 - Rustem Pasa mosque page 21 Istanbul projects 11 - Istanbul Technical University page 31 12 - Mimarlar Tasarim architects page 30 13 - SALT page 32 14 - Santral Istanbul page 34 15 - Galata tower page 26 16 - Fez Factory page 17 - Borusan Music and art center page 38 18 - Ast Hotel page 06 19 - Süleymaniye Mosque page 22 20 - Cagalaglu Hamami page 24

10 Print - Maps 14.09.11 21.02

Maps

Istanbul, Turkey

My Notes

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http://www.bing.com/maps/print.aspx?mkt=en-us&z=13&s=r&cp=41…8.981249&poi=Istanbul%2C%20Turkey&pp=qv1yh3kdd8n3&b=1&pt=pb Side 1 av 1 Sunday 18th 10.00 am

Topkapi palace

Sulthanmet, Istanbul constructed: 1453 Price: TL20, admission TL15 Hours: 9am-5pm Wed-Mon, 9am-5pm Wed-Mon

12 This opulent palace is the subject of more colourful from earliest times and, before that, a pagan temple. The stories than most of the world’s put togeth- early church was replaced by the present one, com- er. It was the home of Selim the Sot, who drowned in missioned by Justinian in the 540s. When Mehmet the the bath after drinking too much champagne; Ibrahim Conqueror began building his palace, the church was the Crazy, who lost his reason after being locked within the grounds and was most fortunately retained. It up for four years in the infamous palace kafes; and was used as an arsenal for centuries, then as an artillery Roxelana, beautiful and malevolent consort of Süley- and now occasionally as a concert hall. man the Magnificent. Mehmet the Conqueror built The Harem is the section of the Palace where the Sultan, the first stage of the palace shortly after the Con- his mother, the princess and the ladies of the palace lived quest in 1453, and lived here until his death in 1481. . The brothers of the Sultan where also locked up here Subsequent sultans lived in this rarefied environment to avoid a dispute of the throne. The Harem conatains until the 19th century, when they moved to ostenta- hundred of rooms and corridors which are all embellished tious European-style palaces such as Dolmabahçe, with Ottoman ornamentation. Çıragan and Yıldız that they built on the shores of the Bosphorus. Mahmut II (r 180839) was the last sultan to live in Topkapı. Before you enter the Imperial Gate (Bab-ı Hümayun) of Topkapı, take a look at the ornate structure in the cobbled square near the gate. This is the Fountain of Sultan Ahmet III, built in 1728 by the sultan who so favoured tulips. It replaced a Byzantine fountain at the same spring. Typical of ar- chitecture during the Tulip Period, it features delicate Turkish rococo decorations (note the floral carvings). As you pass through the Imperial Gate, you enter the First Court, known as the Court of the Janissaries, also known as the Parade Court. On your left is Aya Irini, also known as Haghia Eirene or the Church of the Divine Peace. There was a Christian church here 13 Called Hagia Sofia in Greek, Sancta Sophia in Latin and the Church of the Divine Wisdom in English, Istanbul’s most famous monument has long and fascinating history. Monday 19th Built by Emperor Justinian, it was constructed on the site 11.30 am of Byzantium’s acropolis, which had also been the site of Hagia Sofia two earlier Aya Sofyas. Aya Sofya Square The first of these was a basilica with a timber roof com- Sultanahmet pleted in 360 by Constantine’s son and successor, Price: YTL10 Constantinius, and was burned down in a riot in 404; and Hours: Tue-Sun 09:00-19:30, the second was a building commissioned by Theodosius upper gallery closes 19:00 II in 415 and destroyed in the Nika riots of 532. Justin- ian’s church, which dwarfed all other buildings in the city, was completed in 537 and reigned as the greatest church in Christendom until the Conquest of Constantinople in 1453, when Mehmet the Conqueror took posses- sion of it for Islam and immediately converted it into a mosque. As significant to Muslims as it is to Christians, it was proclaimed a museum by Atatürk in 1934. Ongo- ing restoration work (partly Unesco funded) means that the interior is filled with scaffolding, but not even this can detract from the experience of visiting one of the world’s truly great buildings. On entering his great creation for the first time, Justinian exclaimed, ‘Glory to God that I have been judged worthy of such a work. Oh Solomon! I have outdone you!’ Entering the building today, it is easy to excuse his self-congratulatory tone. The exterior may be somewhat squat and unattractive but the interior, with 14 its magnificent domed ceiling soaring heavenward, is so sublimely beautiful that many seeing it for the first time are quite literally stunned into silence.

Hagia Sophia is one of the greatest surviving examples of Byzantine architecture.The original achievement of Aya Sofya’s architects Anthemeus of Tralles and Isidorus of Miletus, who worked without the benefits of today’s tech- nology and materials, remains unequalled. The Byzan- tines gasped in amazement at the sense of air and space in the nave and the 30 million gold mosaic tiles (tesserae) that covered the dome’s interior. Most of all, they mar- velled at the apparent lack of support for the enormous dome. In fact, the original dome lasted only two decades before an earthquake brought it down in 559. It was rebuilt to a slightly less ambitious design, with a smaller base and steeper sides, and the basilica was reopened in 563. Over subsequent centuries it was necessary for succeeding Byzantine emperors and Ottoman sultans to rebuild the dome several times, to add buttresses and other supports and to steady the foundations.

15 With this mosque, Sultan Ahmet I (r 1603–17) set out to build a monument that would rival and even surpass the nearby Aya Sofya in grandeur and beauty. So enthusiastic was the sultan about his grand project that he is said to have worked with the labourers and craftsmen on site, pushing them along and rewarding extra effort. Ahmet did in fact come close to his goal of rivalling Aya Sofya, and in so doing achieved the added benefit of making future generations of hotel owners in Sultanahmet happy – a ‘Blue Mosque view’ from the roof terrace being the number-one selling point of the fleet of hotels in the area. The mosque’s architect, Mehmet Aga, who had trained with Sinan, managed to orchestrate the sort of visual wham-bam effect with the mosque’s exterior that Aya Sofya achieved with its interior. Its curves are voluptuous, it has more minarets than any other Istanbul mosque (in fact, there was consternation at the time of its construction that the sultan was being irreverent in The Blue Mosque specifying six minarets – the only equivalent being Sultanahmet in Mecca) and the courtyard is the biggest of all the Ottoman mosques. The interior is conceived on Hours: 08.30 - 12.00 a similarly grand scale: the blue tiles that give the 13.45 - 16.30 building its unofficial name number in the tens of Monday 19th closed during prayer times thousands, there are 260 windows and the central 10.00 am prayer space is huge. No wonder its picture graces a million postcards! In order to fully appreciate the 16 mosque’s design you should approach it via the middle of the Hippodrome rather than walking straight from Sultanahmet Park through the crowds. When inside the courtyard, which is the same size as the mosque’s interi- or, you’ll be able to appreciate the perfect proportions of the building. Walk towards the mosque through the gate in the peripheral wall, noting on the way the small dome atop the gate: this is the motif Mehmet Aga uses to lift your eyes to heaven. As you walk through the gate, your eyes follow a flight of stairs up to another gate topped by another dome; through this gate is yet another dome, that of the ablutions fountain in the centre of the mosque courtyard. As you ascend the stairs, semidomescome into view: first the one over the mosque’s main door, then the one above it, and another, and another. Finally the main dome crowns the whole, and your attention is drawn to the sides, where forests of smaller domes reinforce the effect, completed by the minarets, which lift your eyes heavenward.

17 Sunday 18th 14.00 pm

This extraordinary subterranean structure, built by Jus- tinian in 532 (perhaps on the site of an earlier cistern), is Basilica Cistern the largest surviving Byzantine cistern in Istanbul. Now one of the city’s most popular tourist attractions, it’s a great place to while away 30 minutes or so, especially Yerebatan Caddesi 13 during summer when its cavernous depths stay won- Sultanahmet derfully cool. The cistern’s roof is 65m wide and 143m Price: admission TL10 long, and is supported by 336 columns arranged in Hours: 9am-6.30pm Apr-Sep 12 rows. It once held 80,000 cubic metres of water, delivered via 20km of aqueducts from a reservoir near the Black Sea. The cistern was constructed using

18 columns, capitals and plinths from ruined buildings, and its symmetry and sheer grandeur of conception are quite extraordinary. Don’t miss the two columns in the north- western corner supported by blocks carved into Medusa heads or the column towards the centre featuring a teardrop design – we don’t know where these columns originally came from but it’s great to speculate. Walking on the raised wooden platforms, you’ll feel the water dripping from the vaulted ceiling and see schools of ghostly carp patrolling the water. Lighting is atmospheric and the small cafe near the exit is certainly an unusual spot to enjoy a glass of tea. Like most sites in Istanbul, the cistern has an unusual history. Known in Byzantium as the Basilica Cistern because it lay underneath the Stoa Basilica, one of the great squares on the first hill, it was used to store water for the Great Palace and sur- rounding buildings. Eventually closed, the cistern seems to have been forgotten by the city authorities some time the underground palace with the respect it deserved – it before the Conquest. Enter scholar Petrus Gyllius, who became a dumping ground for all sorts of junk, as well in 1545 was researching Byzantine antiquities in the city as corpses. Fortunately, later restorations, most notably and was told by locals that they were able to miraculous- in the 18th century and between 1955 and 1960, saw ly obtain water by lowering buckets in their basement it properly maintained. It was cleaned and renovated floors. Some were even catching fish this way. Intrigued, in 1985 by the Istanbul Metropolitan Municipality and Gyllius explored the neighbourhood and finally discov- opened to the public in 1987. ered a house through whose basement he accessed the cistern. Even after his discovery, the Ottomans (who referred to the cistern as Yerebatan Saray) didn’t treat

19 Chora church 1077–1081 Address: Kariye Camii Sokak Edirnekapı Price: YTL15 Hours: 09:00-18:30 Thu-Tue The Church of Holy Savior in Chora (Turkish Kariye Müze- si, Kariye Camii, or Kariye Kilisesi — the Chora Museum, Mosque or Church) is considered to be one of the most beautiful examples of a Byzantine church. The church is situated in Istanbul, in the Edirnekapı neighborhood, which lies in the western part of the municipality (belediye) of Fatih. In the 16th century, the church was converted into a mosque by the Ottoman rulers, and it became a secularised museum in 1948. The interior of the building is covered with fine mosaics and frescoes. 20 Rustem Pasa Mosque 1560 Address: Hasırcılar Caddesi Eminönü

Plonked in the middle of the busy Tahtakale district, this little-visited mosque is a gem. Built in 1560 by Sinan for Rüstem Pasa, son-in-law and grand vizier of Süleyman the Magnificent, it is a showpiece of the best Ottoman architecture and tilework, albeit on a small scale. It is thought to have been the prototype for Sinan’s greatest work, the Selimiye in Edirne. At the top of the two sets of entry steps there is a terrace and the mosque’s colon- naded porch. The interior is covered in similarly gorgeous tiles and features a lovely dome, supported by four tiled pillars. The preponderance of tiles was Rüstem Pasa’s way of signalling his wealth and influence –Iznik tiles be- ing particularly expensive and desirable. The mosque is easy to miss because it’s not at street level. There’s a set of access stairs on Hasırcılar Caddesi and another on the small street that runs right (north) off Hasırcılar Caddesi to the Golden Horn. 21 Süleymaniye Mosque

Address Prof Sıddık Sami Onar Caddesi Bazaar District Hours tombs 9.30am-5.30pm

The Süleymaniye crowns one of the seven hills and dominates the Golden Horn, providing a landmark for the entire city. It was commissioned by the greatest, rich- est and most powerful of Ottoman sultans, Süleyman I (r 1520–66), known as ‘The Magnificent’, and was the fourth imperial mosque built in Istanbul, following the Fatih, Beyazıt and Selim I complexes. Though it’s not the largest of the Ottoman mosques, the Süleymaniye is certainly the grandest. It was designed by Mimar Sinan, the most famous and talented of all imperial architects. Though Sinan described the smaller Selimiye Camii in Edirne as his best work, he chose to be buried here in the Süleymaniye complex, probably knowing that this would

22 be the building that he would be best remembered for. His türbe is just outside the mosque’s walled garden, next to the medrese building. The mosque was built between 1550 and 1557; records show that 3523 craftspeople worked on its construction. Though it’s seen some hard times, being damaged by fire in 1660 and having its won- derful columns covered by cement and oil paint at some point after this, restorations in 1956 and 2009 mean that it’s in great shape these days. It’s also one of the most popular mosques in the city, with worshippers rivalling the Blue and New Mosques in number. The mosque’s setting and plan are particularly pleasing, featuring gardens and a three-sided forecourt with a central domed ablutions fountain. Its four minarets with their beautiful balconies are said to represent the fact that Süleyman was the fourth of the Osmanlı sultans to rule the city. Inside, the mosque is breathtaking in its size and pleasing in its simplicity. It is also remarkably light. Near the southeast wall of the mosque is the cemetery, home to the tombs of Süleyman and his wife Haseki Hürrem Sultan (Roxelana). The tilework in both is superb. In Süleyman’s tomb, little jewel-like lights in the dome are surrogate stars. In Roxelana’s tomb, the many tile panels of flowers and the delicate stained glass produce a serene effect.

23 Cagalaglu Hamami public hamam to bring revenue for the library of Sul- tan Mahmud I the first situated inside the mosque of Address Ayasofya. When we take a look at the names of the Yerebatan Caddesi 34 Cagaloglu head architects of that time we can say that it was Hours: begun by Suleyman Aga finished by Abdullah Aga. men 8am-10pm, women 8am-8pm It is the last example of its kind to be built in Istanbul and is a successful hamam that is still operational in The most beautiful of the city’s hamams, historic Caga- our time. The door of the women’s section is on a loglu Hamamı offers separate baths for men and women side street called Hamam while the mens’ entrance and a range of bath services The Cagaloglu Hamam, is from the main road with two marble columns with constructed in 1741, is the last hamam to be built dur- classic stalactite capitals on both sides. In time when ing the . It was constructed in Istanbul the street was elevated, the mens’ section is reached Eminonu, in Alemdar, on Hilal-i Ahmer street as a cifte by a staircase of 10 steps.

24 The Grand Bazaar (Turkish: Kapalıçarsı, meaning Covered Bazaar) is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, with more than 58 covered streets and over 4,000 shops which attract between 250,000 and half a million visitors daily. The confusing labyrinth of streets was originally named after the goods sold there (Mirror-makers St, Pearl Mer- chants St, Fez Makers St and so on), and although that’s not necessarily the case today, it is still possible to buy precious gems, old coins and intricately crafted jewel- lery in Jewellers St. The Grand Bazaar is also renowned for offering basement-bargain deals on fur and leather goods, kilim products and a range of handcrafted good- ies. Just remember to keep your wits about you. Grand bazaar

Address: Çemberlitas Grand Bazaar Hours: Mon-Sat 08:30-19:00

25 Galata Tower

Sishane, PK 34420 Istanbul

Galata tower, being one of the oldest and the most important towers in the world, was made by Byzantium Emperor Anastasius in 507 under the name Lighthouse Tower. The tower was made by wood. Taking over the tower in 1348, Geneose rebuilt the tower with pile stone and named it Christ Tower. Also restoraged in 1967, Galata Tower gained its today`s view and still used for touristic formation. Galata Tower got its name from the historical province of Istanbul, from Galata.

Surrounded by many civilizations, Galata Tower offers you to drink your coffee and have a pleasant time. You can see the panoramic view of Istanbul from the tower. The cafes and restaurants are open at 9am to 12pm. The Ottomans and the world`s kitchens most exelled flavors are waiting for you and your friends. While watching the sunset, you can have the colorful Istanbul nights.

26 modern architecture

27 Istanbul Modern

2005

Meclis-I Mebusan Caddesi Tophane Price: adult/student YTL7/3 Hours: 10:00-18:00 Tue-Wed & Fri-Sun, 10:00-20:00

28 Facilitated by the active cultural philanthropy of the Sekere Ahmet Ali Pasa (1841–1907), Orhan Peker (1926– country’s industrial dynasties – many of which have built 78), Ismet Dogan (1957–), Ömer Kalesi (1932–), Cihat extraordinary arts collections – museum buildings are Burak (1918–94) , Ihsan Cemal Karaburçak (1897–1970), opening nearly as often as art exhibitions. Istanbul Mod- Avni Arbas (1919–2003), Selma Gürbüz (1960–), Alaaddin ern is the big daddy of them all. Opened with great fan- Aksoy (1942–), Fahreinissa Zeid (1901–91), Nurullah Berk fare in 2005, this huge converted shipping terminal has (1906–82) and Adnan Çoker (1927–) – it’s the temporary a stunning location right on the shores of the Bosphorus exhibitions and permanent installations in the downstairs at Tophane and is easily accessed by tram from Sulta- spaces that really stand out. Of these, don’t miss Richard nahmet. The museum’s curatorial program is twofold: Wentworth’s False Ceiling (1995–2005), an installation of the 1st floor highlights the Eczcıbası family’s collection of Turkish and Western books floating overhead that plays Turkish 20th-century and contemporary art using a the- with ideas of cultural closeness and difference. Make sure matic approach; and the downstairs spaces host tempo- you check out what is showing in the main temporary rary exhibitions from local and international artists. While gallery (it’s always good), the photography gallery and two the 1st floor exhibits are interesting – look for works by video projection rooms. 29 Tuesday 20th 16.00 pm

Mimarlar Tasarim architects

Address: Cınarlı Cesme Sokak no. 1 Kurucesme 34345 Istanbul

30 Istanbul Technical University

Tuesday 20th You can reach the campus by using public trans- 9.30 port vehicles, Taksim-Hacı Osman metro line and entrance of Kabataş-Taksim Funicular line. The campus is located the Taskisla at the east part of Taksim Gezi Park.

Istanbul Technical University (Tr. Istanbul Teknik Üniversi- tesi, commonly referred to as ITU or Technical University) is an international technical university located in Istanbul, Turkey. It is the world’s third oldest [14][dead link] techni- cal university dedicated to engineering sciences as well as social sciences recently, and is one of the most promi- devoted tremendous effort on building the infrastructure nent educational institutions in Turkey. in the cities and villages of Turkey, such as, bridges, ITU, from the Past to the Future factories, buildings, power plants, telecommunication Having 238 year prominent history, a contemporary networks. Istanbul Technical University is a state uni- education environment and an impressive faculty, Istan- versity that defines the professions of engineering and bul Technical University has been distinguished in Turkey architecture in Turkey that provides a modern educa- with its engineering and architecture education. Istanbul tion environment to the students while possessing its Technical University had undertaken the leadership in the conventional structure. ITU educates its students as the Ottoman Empire reformation movements and had invalu- future pioneers in engineering and architecture not only able influence on the reconstruction, modernization and in national but also in international environments by es- administration of our nation during the Republican Period tablishing strong relations with international institutions. of Turkey. ITU graduate engineers and architects had

31 SALT Tuesday 21th 13.00 pm Istiklal Caddesi 136 Beyoglu 34430 Istanbul

Architect Mimarlar Tasarim Hours: Tues-Sat 12.00-20.00 Sun 10.30-18.00

1,130 square meters of exhibition space on three levels, as well as the Forum, Walk-in-

SALT explores critical and timely issues in visual and material culture. An exhibition space designed by Mimarlar architects.

SALT is a not-for-profit institution located in Istanbul, Turkey. Opened in April 2011, SALT hosts exhibitions, conferences and public programs; engages in interdis- ciplinary research projects; and maintains a library and archive of recent art, architecture, design, urbanism, and social and economic histories to make them available for research and public use. SALT builds upon the foundations and activities of Plat- form Garanti Contemporary Art Center, Ottoman Bank Archives and Research Centre, and Garanti Gallery, all of 32 which have been dissolved. SALT’s mission is to explore critical and timely issues in visual and material culture, and cultivate innovative programs for research and experimental thinking. Assuming an open attitude and establishing itself as a site of learning and debate, the in- stitution aims to challenge, excite and provoke its visitors by encouraging them to offer critique and response.[2] SALT’s activities are distributed between two landmark buildings, SALT Beyoglu and SALT Galata. The architec- tural renovation of both buildings has been undertaken by Mimarlar Tasarım, the office of Aga Khan Award for Architecture winner Han Tümertekin, with specific interi- ors commissioned to design and architecture offices from Turkey.

The original building of SALT Beyoglu was constructed between 1850 and 1860. Opening on Istanbul’s pedes- trian street Istiklal Caddesi with the name Siniossoglou Apartment, the building initially functioned as retail space on street level, with domestic residences on its upper floors. When, in the 1950s, the Beyoglu district’s popula- tion fell into decline,[3] the building ceased to function residentially, its space instead used for retail, political and artistic activities. Redesign of the building for contempo- rary use combines conservation of Siniossoglou Apart- ment’s original architectural elements, reinforcement of its structure, and a reorganization of the internal layout.

33 With the events and activities it organizes, santralistanbul aspires to be an international platform for arts, culture and learning, inspired by a comprehensive, multi-dimen- sional and interdisciplinary vision which promotes urban regeneration. In its original incarnation, before restoration and conver- sion into santralistanbul, the Silahtarağa Power Plant is the Ottoman Empire’s first urban-scale power plant. The facility went into service on the Golden Horn, Istanbul’s oldest industrial area, in 1911 and supplied the city with electricity up until 1983. Today, the power plant stands as a unique industrial heritage site following its conver- sion into santralistanbul, a project which involved the Sentral Istanbul collaboration of public sector, private sector and non- governmental organizations alike. Opening its doors on 8 September 2007, santralistanbul is one the most exhaus- Eski Silahtarağa Elektrik Santrali tive conversion projects to be carried out in Turkey in the Kazım Karabekir Cad. No:2 field of arts and culture. Eyüp 34060 Istanbul Wednesday 21th in the morning

34 35 Istanbul Saphire Büyükdere Avenue ,

2011 Architect Tabanlioglu Architects Program shopping mall and residential

Istanbul Sapphire is a skyscraper, and as of 2011, the tallest building in Istanbul and Turkey, located in the central business district of Levent. It will relegate to the second spot upon the completion of the triple towers, located in the nearby central busi- ness district of Maslak. It is the country’s first ecological skyscraper. Sapphire rises 54 floors above ground level, and boasts an above-ground roof height of 238 meters (the building has an overall structural height of 261 me- ters including its spire, which is part of the design and not a radio antenna.) It is a shopping and luxury residence mixed-use project by Biskon Construction (a subsidiary of the Kiler Group of Companies.) 36 Istanbul Sapphire has been designed by Tabanlıoglu Architecture as a high-tech structure that consists of 64 floors (54 above-ground and 10 basement floors), communal living floors, extensive parking spaces, a large shopping mall, and 47 floors for residences. There are be specialized floors which have private gardens between every 3 floors, and every 9 floors are separated from each other by a communal living area or mechanical floors. Design of the gardens are proposed with a number of alternatives and the consistency of garden maintenance is under the residence management company’s responsibility.

Sapphire is the first ecological building of Turkey, hav- ing two special glass shells which can take the outside air naturally by holes located at every 3 floors. Thanks to this system, the inhabitants of the building will not be affected by the negative weather conditions and external urban noise, in addition to providing a buffer with the outside atmosphere and the internal facilities. Absorption of the sunlight and ultraviolet beams will be ensured by a special curtain system that’s automatically controlled through a computer, depending on the season, day and hour.

37 Borusan Music and Art Center

Wednesday 21th in the morning 2009 The new Borusan Music and Art Center in the historic Architect Gokhan Avcioglu (principle) of GAD neighborhood of Beyoglu, Istanbul is a multi-purpose Client Borusan space for exhibitions, events, rehearsals and various Program Rehearsal and Performance Center for cultural training programs. This new cultural center Borusan Philharmonic Orchestra and Art Exhibition symbolizes the cultural and artistic renaissance presently Space occurring throughout the city, while also preserving the architectural legacy of Istanbul.

GAD’s design preserves and restores the historic shell of the existing building, which is typical of the facades along the famous Istiklal Caddesi. The building core has been completely removed, expressing an empty void. In a clev- er move, GAD inserted a contrasting contemporary ‘box’ within the core. The ‘box’ is designed using a lightweight steel diagrid frame system along its perimeter. This strat- egy allows for an open floor plan, and offers program- matic flexibility between all the floors. The inserted ‘box’ seems to defy gravity as it responds to, and is framed by, the historic masonry shell. The architectural symbiosis of the two contrasting construction methods and materials activates a playful tension between the past and present.

38 Maps

Kadiköy, Turkey

My Notes

Kadıköy, on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus just south of Haydarpasa, was known in Byzantine times as Chalce- don. It is s a large, populous, and cosmopolitan district of Istanbul and the cultural center on the Asian side. Kadıköy became a district in 1928 when it seceded from Üsküdar district. The neighbourhoods of Içerenköy, Bostancı and Suadiye were also separated from the dis- trict of Kartal in the same year, and eventually joined the newly formed district of Kadıköy. Today it’s a bustling commercial and transportation center, and Asian residential district of the megalopolis of Istanbul. Kadıköy is untouristy and very Turkish middle class. Tuesday 20th The market district, just inland from the ferry docks, is 16.00 pm Kadiköy a particularly appealing one, with bright fruits and veg- etables, lots of fish, and a variety of good restaurants with sidewalk tables in fair weather.

39 Maps

Istanbul, Turkey

My Notes

Boat trip - Bosphorus

Monday 19th 14.00 pm

40 general information

41 Bus The bus system in Istanbul is extremely efficient. Most services run between 6.30am and 11.30pm. Destina- tions and main stops on city bus routes are shown on a sign on the right (kerb) side of the bus (otobüs) or on the electronic display at its front. İETT buses are run by the city and you must have a ticket (YTL1.30) before boarding. Buy tickets from the white booths near major stops and bus, tram and metro stations, or from some nearby shops for a small mark-up (look for ‘İETT otobüs bileti satılır’). You can also use your Akbil and save some money. Blue private buses regulated by the city called Özel Halk Otobüsü run the same routes; these accept cash (pay the conductor) and some accept getting around Akbil. Taxi Tram Istanbul is full of taxis. Some drivers are lunatics; others An excellent tramway (tramvay) service runs from Zeytin- are con artists – most are neither. If you’re caught with burnu (where it connects with the airport LRT) to Sulta- the first category and you’re about to go into meltdown, nahmet and Eminönü, and then across the Galata Bridge say ‘yavaş!’ (careful/slow down!). Drivers in the second to Karaköy (to connect with the Tünel) and Kabataş (to of these categories – the con artists – are unfortunately connect with the funicular to Taksim Square). Trams reasonably common. All taxis have digital meters and run every five minutes from 6am to midnight. The fare is must run them.The night-time (gece) rate, from midnight YTL1.30 and Akbil can be used. to 6am, is 50% higher. Meters, with LCD displays, flash ‘gündüz’ or ‘gece’ when they are started. Occasionally, A two-stop antique tram runs along İstiklal Caddesi be- drivers try to put the night-time (gece) rate on during the tween Tünel and Taksim Squares in Beyoğlu. day, so watch out.

42 Ferries & seabuses The most enjoyable way to get around town is by ferry. Crossing between the Asian and European shores, these vessels are as efficient as they are popular with locals. You can pick up a printed timetable at any of the ferry docks.

On the European side, the major ferry docks are at the mouth of the Golden Horn (Eminönü, Sirkeci and Kara- köy), and at Kabatas, 2km past the Galata Bridge, at the end of the tram line from the airport and Sultanahmet. Tickets (jetons) are cheap (usually YTL1.30) and it’s pos- sible to use Akbil on most routes.

Metro From Taksim there is a service stopping at Osmanbey, Sisli, Gayrettepe, Levent and Levent 4. The full trip takes 25 minutes. Services run every five minutes or so from 6.15am to 12.30am Monday to Thursday, 6.15am to 1am on Friday and Saturday and 6.30am to 12.20am on Sun- day. Tickets cost YTL1.30 and Akbil can be used

43 Istanbul tickets

Akbil transit pass allows you to travel on all Istanbul’s buses, trams, the Tunel, Metro, ferries and fast ferries with a discounted fare from 10% to 25%. The pass is a small stainless steel “button” on a plastic holder and inside there is a computer chip. You need to purchase it in advance from akbil kiosks, they’re near to all bus and tram stops. The deposit fee is 6,- YTL(~4 USD) and you need to “top it up” When you board a bus, tram, ferry, etc., look for people touching their Akbil buttons to the Akbil fare-point, a little circular socket with an orange box. 44 names and numbers

Berntsen, Anette-Irene +47 977 32 665 Fardal, Jostein +47 988 44 033 Helvik, Vilde Aspen +47 900 10 907 Holmedal, Bjelland Marion +47 988 55 124 Olav Fåsetbru Kildahl +47 928 29 585 Kuhnle, Elisabeth Kahrs +47 928 24 577 Kvande, Kaja Kittang +47 99 53 46 92 Martinsen, Ingrid Marie +47 93 65 07 87 Quintanerio dos Santos, Pedro +47 45 17 47 38 Rodrigues e Ribeidro Soares, Francisco +47 45 17 07 64 Ve, Ida Johanne A +47 909 52 385 Aarhus, Jon Danielsen +47 920 44 226 Hassel, Ann Helen +47 905 39 644 contactinformation

contactpersons

Jörgen Johner +49 151 25 32 84 34 Sunniva Vold Huus +47 41 41 20 82 Kaja Kittang Kvande +47 99 53 46 92

45 Enjoy! 46