The Yorkshire Archaeological & Historical Society

The North York Moors Re-visited

Anthony Silson BSc (Hons) MSc PGCE FRGS The North York Moors Re-visited

Anthony Silson BSc (Hons) MSc PGCE FRGS Key words: physical environment; agricultural land use; rural settlement; services; tourism; transport; urban settlement. Thirty or so years ago, I wrote an essay about The North York Moors for the BBC Domesday Survey (Silson 1986). This new essay examines the extent to which changes have occurred since then. Shortly after the first article was published in1986, I was interested enough to do further field work on the area so some information used here is for 1985 and some for 1986. Likewise contemporary fieldwork was undertaken in both 2015 and 2016. The area allocated to me in 1985 excluded the eastern part of the region administered by The North York Moors National Park Authority, hereafter: NYMNPA, but included some peripheral areas administered by Hambleton and Ryedale District Councils. The same area is discussed in this essay, and the extent of the area is delimited in Figure 1. This essay is illustrated by plates located near the end.

Figure 1 Morpholgical features of The North York Moors

Physical Environment The North York Moors is a tectonically relatively stable inland area (Goudie 1990). Hence its morphology has scarcely had time to change in a mere thirty years. An example of a very small change has been the making of a small pond about two km to the east of Thirsk. But the major morphological contrasts continue to be controlled by lithological contrasts in underlying rocks (Straw and Clayton 1979). Shales overlain by sandstones have formed an outer scarp running from Kildale in the north to Sutton Bank in the south. These rocks have also given rise to interior scarps, whose summits are called the Tabular Hills, running from the Hambleton Hills in the west to near 1 Newton-on-Rawcliffe in the east. The summits of the northern scarp give way to a dissected plateau of between approximately 320m and 420m in elevation. Streams draining north and south from this plateau have formed wide dales where they have reached underlying shales. On the dip slope of the Tabular Hills sandstones quickly give way to limestone. In turn the dip slope gives way to the Vale of Pickering. Less resistant clays helped form this plain, but the clays have a covering of recent deposits including those of lacustrine origin. The western plain was cut in marls but like the Vale of Pickering is largely covered by more recent deposits, in this case of glacial origin. Differences in lithology have thus created four major morphological units: scarp, dale, dip slope and plain (Figure1). The plateau is probably a sub-aerial erosion surface that was covered by the sea and then trimmed by wave erosion as the sea level intermittently fell (Eyre and Palmer 1973a). In turn these five units have led to climatic contrasts just as they did thirty years ago. Mean January temperatures are about 4ºC on the plains but 1ºC to 2ºC on the plateau. The plains have mean July temperatures of about 16ºC but the plateau only reaches about 13ºC (Met Office 2016). Mean annual rainfall is high (1000mm and over) on the plateau, moderate on the dales and dip slope and low (750mm or less) on the plains (Meteorological Office 1977). No discernable difference could be identified between the distribution of rainfall in 1977 and that in 2016. Lithological contrasts have also contributed to differences in natural soils. The plateau has mostly peat soils but with some sandy soils. The dip slope has well drained calcareous soils and the dales and plains poorly drained heavy soils (Soil Survey 1983). Agricultural land use Today, a very clear spatial correlation exists between broad agricultural land use divisions and four of the major morphological units (Silson 2015-16). Crops for sale are grown mainly on the plains and dip slope (Tables 1-3). Whilst a variety of crops are grown, wheat and barley occupy the largest area of the crops grown. Approximately half of the dip slope, plains and the valleys at the foot of the interior scarps are under grass. In contrast, the dales are almost entirely under grass. All these three areas are enclosed, but the plateau is unenclosed. Heather occupies large areas of the plateau and small areas on the crests of the Tabular Hills. Woodland chiefly occurs on the scarps. This striking correlation was just as evident thirty years ago (Silson 1986). This long-standing relationship between land use and the physical environment is more than spatial, it is, I believe, also causal. All the farmers in the area operate under the same economic and political environment of neoliberalism This leads most farmers to try to maximise their profits, and they try to achieve this aim by adapting their farming practices to the physical environment. Grass will grow in all areas, but the combination of heavy soils and moderate mean annual rainfall in the dales preclude the commercial growing of crops. The moderate rainfall of the dip slopes is countered by the lighter, better drained calcareous soils so commercial crop growing can be undertaken. The heavy soils of the plains, while hard to work, retain moisture, which is advantageous for crops in this area of low rainfall and warm summers. These climatic conditions along with a growing season of about nine months permit commercial crop growing.

2 The scarp slopes are too steep to profitably grow crops therefore they are either under grass or more usually woodland. The narrow valleys dissecting the dip slopes are also wooded on the steep sides but under grass on their narrow floors. The plateau is still occupied by heather moorland partly because the high rainfall and the short growing season of six-seven months or less make it scarcely worth reclaiming under current economic and political circumstances, and partly because it is NYMNPA policy to conserve it (Statham 1984 and NYMNPA 2012a). Commercial farming is restricted to extensive sheep rearing. One dales farmer possesses some improved grass in the dale but larger areas of grazing on the moorland (Berry 1 Aug 2015). I believe this is true of other dales’ farmers. Along with any subsidies, this combination of types of grazing land makes hill farming profitable in most years. Moorland conservation is demanded because of the moors’ striking visual importance, its recreational importance for such activities as walking, its importance for natural history including its several sites of scientific interest and its economic value (Statham 1984 and NYMNPA 1997). Sheep grazing plays a part in the conservation of the moors by helping to stop the re- establishment of trees, but the main agent is rotational firing of the heather by people (Eyre and Palmer 1973b) and (NYMNPA 2012a and 2016a). Fire destroys the old heather stalks and enables young shoots to grow. Private landowners who seek to provide grouse shooting undertake most of this firing. Grouse cannot breed in captivity and chiefly exist on heather moors, consequently if grouse numbers are to be maintained, then heather needs to be retained and to achieve this periodic firing continues. Where the moor is not actively managed then heather will, in time, be replaced by bracken and/or shrubs and then by trees. This can be seen, for example, on Harland Moor. A failure to actively manage parts of the moor may be one reason why the total area of moorland has continued to decline slightly (Statham 1984 and NYMNPA 2016b). Action by human beings has led to the area occupied by bracken to decline in the National Park as a whole (NYMNPA 2012a). Beekeeping continues in some parts including the moor near Spaunton Lodge and has increased on the moors near Westerdale. There the owner of Quarry Farm produces about 5000 jars of Heather Honey that are sold and contribute to the family’s income (Berry C 1 August 2015). Whilst the main contrasts in agricultural land use continue, there have been some detailed changes. On both the plains and the dip slope, some land is taken out of cultivation for varying periods of time. Occasionally whole fields are not cultivated, including those of over-wintered stubble, but more commonly grass strip margins in a field where a crop is being grown. These are forms of set aside first introduced in the nineties. It was a European Union initiative to reduce agricultural production and to grant farmers financial compensation if they took part in this scheme (Silson March 1995). Thereafter, various measures to compensate farmers for improving the environment, including wild life have been established. The first was called Countryside Stewardship; this became Environmental Stewardship, and recently has changed to Countryside Stewardship again. These schemes have helped conserve hedges, a concern also of the NYMNPA. The latter body has this year awarded grants to help conserve hedges (Whitby Gazette 12 August 2016). 3 On the plains wheat easily remains the main crop with barley the second crop (Silson 1985-86 and 2015-16). A small proportion of the area continues to be devoted to potatoes and legumes, but the area under brassicas has increased mainly by more oil seed rape being grown. Maize, which was not seen in The North York Moors in 1985-86, now occupies a small area on both the dip slope and the plains. Barley has lost its premiere position that it held on the dip slope in 1985-86, but is still very important there. Wheat is now about equally important, as its area has increased. The area under roots has declined markedly in the dales, dip slope and the plains. There is much less dairying than in 1985 (Silson 1985-86 and 2015- 16). This is probably due to the sharp decline in the farm gate price of milk. Some milk continues to be produced in the lowlands south of Stokesley (Dairy farmers in Stokesley 2015). In the southern plains near Pickering, dairying still occurs as the milk produced there is used to make ice cream, which is then sold in Pickering (Silson 2015-16). An enormous decrease in dairying has occurred in Danby Dale (Berry 8 Aug 2015), but some still continues in 2016 (Silson 2015-6). Beef cattle and sheep are still kept in the dales and dip slopes, but one Upper Farndale farmer is trying to make a go of rearing pigs from which he produces bacon, and then sells it by post to customers (Atkins 22 July 2016).

Table 1 Agricultural Land Use in the Dales 1985-86 2015-16 % Standard Error% % Standard Error% Wheat 0.87 0.87 1.92 1.35 Barley 2.61 0.16 0.96 0.96 Other or unidentified cereals 2.61 0.16 0 0 Roots and potatoes 2.61 0.16 0 0 Grass 91.30 2.63 97.12 1.64

Table 2 Agricultural Land Use in the Dip Slope 1985-86 2015-16 % Standard Error % % Standard Error% Wheat 3.13 1.71 16.58 3.70 Barley 25.96 4.30 21.10 4.06 Other or unidentified cereals 6.25 2.37 6.44 2.44 Roots and potatoes 9.38 2.86 0.99 0.99 Brassicas 0.96 0.96 0.99 0.99 Legumes 0 0 Set aside 0 1.49 1.45 Ploughed 3.85 1.89 2.97 1.69 Grass 50.48 4.90 49.50 4.97

4 Table 3 Agricultural Land Use in the Plains 1985-86 2015-16 % Standard Error % % Standard Error% 26.9 Wheat 29.90 4.06 3.78 9 10.8 Barley 10.04 2.67 2.65 7 Other or unidentified cereals 2.36 1.35 2.17 1.24 Roots and potatoes 5.51 2.02 0.72 0.72 Brassicas 0 7.25 2.21 Legumes 0.78 0.78 1,45 1.02 Set Aside 0 2.36 1.29 Ploughed 3.93 1.72 1.63 1.08 46.5 Grass 47.44 4.43 4.25 5

Rural Settlement and Services Table 4 Examples of degree of change in nucleated settlement

Little or no apparent change Some changes in the buildings in the sufficient to alter settlement the morphology

Inside the National Park Low Mill Castleton

Carlton Danby

Fadmoor

Ingleby Greenhow

Outside the National Park Cropton Wrelton

Great Broughton

Kirkby in Cleveland

Thirty years ago, I wrote that the villages have a core of old houses. These often have walls of lighter coloured limestone in the south but of darker sandstone in the north. They have red pantiled roofs in the south, but some have slate roofs in the north. Beyond this core there are more recently built houses often of post-war age. The scattered houses away from the villages usually have light coloured walls and pantiled roofs (Silson 1986).Today, this description is equally true. It is really remarkable that very few new buildings appear to have been erected in the rural areas since 1986 (Silson 1985-86 2015-16 Ordnance Survey 1981 1985 2001 2015). Official NYMNPA figures (2016c), give a

5 somewhat different impression, though the new houses stated to have been built are probably spread over many villages, and so less evident in any one. In Low Mill no new buildings have been erected at all. This is because NYMNPA decided that there were no sites in the hamlet that could be developed without spoiling its character (Statham 1980a). No new buildings were to be erected in Lastingham for the same reason. Large numbers of other small villages have scarcely changed because new building was restricted to infill by this same plan. In Fadmoor, the one or two houses that have been built so closely resemble existing houses that it is very difficult in the field to identify them. Outside the National Park, similar policies have held sway as all the district councils were expected to broadly conform to the North Yorkshire County Council Structure Plan (Statham 1980b). At Great Broughton, infill by a few houses has taken place near the village centre so the overall morphology remains the same (Silson 2015-16). Wrelton experienced a relatively large growth when the grounds of Wrelton Hall were built upon. This smoothed the form of that part of the village and so gave it a rather more compact appearance. This growth had taken place on a ‘windfall’ site and such sites have been common in Ryedale (Ryedale District Council 2012). In the National Park, Castleton has experienced a slightly larger growth than that at Wrelton, but in both villages this growth was completed by the end of the twentieth century (Ordnance Survey 2001). The buildings at Castleton added a small square to the western part of the village (Silson 2015-16). This development was made possible because the NYMNPA 1980 Local Plan had allowed new growth to take place in the National Park’s larger settlements (Statham 1980c). This was because these larger settlements already had the most rural services, and the growth in population attendant upon new buildings might help retain these services. Ryedale District Council published a marvellous Local Plan, which presented the results of a survey of every village in its jurisdiction (Ryedale Local Plan 2001). In almost every instance the Plan stated that the only new buildings that could be erected in most of the villages would take the form of infill. And in this century, the NYMNPA has been even more restrictive by having a presumption against all open market new building except in Helmsley (NYMNPA 2010a). However, in very recent years, houses have been erected not only in Castleton but in Danby (which previously had been restricted to infill). At Danby, these new houses have formed a short linear extension to the village just east of the Village Hall (Silson 2015-16). All these houses at Danby and Castleton are affordable homes (NYMNPA 2010b). And eleven affordable homes were completed at Osmotherley in 2014 (Anonymous 2016). The Authority seeks to maintain the sustainability of its villages, including its services, by retaining people, especially young adults in the villages that they have inhabited for many years. Without affordable homes many would be obliged to quit to find work and a house outside the area (NYMNPA 2010c). The previous lack of affordable homes arose from two sets of reasons. The North York Moors by its combination of moor and farm land, by its attractive old villages and by its relative tranquillity (except when the RAF are mounting an exercise) is a very attractive place to live both for retired people and commuters. The area is near enough to Teesside, York and even at a pinch Leeds to attract commuters who work in these urban areas but wish to live in 6 countryside. The many post-war bungalows that were built in the villages testify to the attraction for retired folk. However, the need to conserve the very features that people find attractive inhibits house building. With rising demand but little increase in supply, house prices have not only risen but have risen far more than the incomes of people native to the area. So the Authority has granted approval for some new houses to be built on exception sites provided locals can afford to buy them and provided certain other conditions are met (NYMNPA 2010d).The ones at Castleton are carefully sited to be not too obvious features of the landscape. But close to Castleton Railway Station, a Care Home has been recently built that catches the eye a kilometre or so away in the village proper. The NYMNPA also has a policy that all new houses (other than those in Helmsley) should be for local people or those with a strong link with the area (NYMNPA 2010e). Some rural services have just about held their own; others have declined. Public houses, except for a few that have closed such as that at Fadmoor, have largely kept in business by offering food not only to locals but to people who live some distance away. They offer menus for which people will be prepared to travel, for example, The Carpenters Arms in Felixkirk, at the time of writing, is offering grouse as it is the glorious 12th. There are still butchers in Glaisdale and Ingleby Greenhow even though the latter village has lost its general store and post office (Silson 1985-86 2015-16). But the butchers serve a wide area and do not depend only on trade from the immediate village. The sphere of influence of Ingleby Greenhow’s butchers extends to Great Broughton and Kirkby in Cleveland four miles away (Kirkby in… 2016). Non-profit making services also continue to exist by sharing. Church of England churches share vicars. The Vicar of Danby holds services in rotation in Castleton, Commondale, Danby, Moorsholm and Westerdale. Non-conformists do not appear to have fared as well: some chapels have closed and have now acquired new uses. That at Low Mill is a house, whilst that at Castleton is a post office and tea room. Schools often serve more than their immediate village. Gillamoor continues to have a school but also serves Fadmoor as well as scattered houses in the area. The primary school serving Great Broughton and Kirkby in Cleveland is sited between the two settlements and thus serves both places fairly easily. Most village halls still exist as they are essentially non profit making. However, that at Felixkirk was up for sale this year (Silson 2015-2016). Hutton–le-Hole continues to have more services than its size would justify because it continues to attract many tourists. A decline in the number of post offices that was evident in 1986 has continued into the present century. In a sample of ten nucleated settlements, over two thirds of the post offices had closed between 1986 and 2016 (Silson 1985-86 2015-16). Amongst the recent closures are those of Danby and Kildale. However, there are currently consultations on whether these villages could be served by a mobile post office in the future (Whitby Gazette 26 Aug 2016). The loss of a post office may be a great inconvenience to pensioners, especially when bus services are often very poor or non-existent, but it also discourages small businesses from coming to, or remaining in, a village. Furthermore, the closure of a post office can also lead to the closure of a village store as these two functions are often run by the same people in the same building. And certainly there has been a decline of almost a third of 7 village stores between 1995 and 2009 (NYMNPA 2012c). Village stores and post offices can only continue if they make a profit, but with the increase in motor car usage and the internet they have lost trade from the village residents and are unable to compensate by attracting many outside visitors to use their services. The village store and post office at Great Broughton has survived by the skin of its teeth. There was a notice thanking residents for rallying round and supporting the shop, on display in June 2016. Castleton, like Great Broughton, is a higher order service centre. Yet in July 2016, the tea rooms were vacant because of relocation to the former chapel. The former bank premises were vacant, one studio was vacant and so were the filling station and its adjacent shop. Tourism and Transport Tourism continues to be a major part of the economy (Silson 1986 NYMNPA 1997 2012b). Visitor Days increased during the1990s but declined in very recent years (NYMNPA 1997 2012b). Some people visit the area to dine out in pub restaurants. Others visit the same attractions that people did in 1985 such as The Folk Museum at Hutton-le-Hole, and the Danby Lodge Moors Centre. In July 2016, a couple from Harrogate were viewing the art exhibition at the Centre. However, the varied scenery, especially that of the heather moors, continues to be a big draw. Many survey the scene from cars. Indeed the number of private motorists seems to have increased since 1985. Some country lanes that were quiet and a pleasure to walk are now unpleasant as cars frequently sweep past in both directions at great speeds. When cars can be avoided, walking is still a pleasure for many. Yet as in 1985-86, walkers are scarcely to be seen. In July 2016 nine of us whom I took to be ramblers alighted from The Moors Explorer Bus at slightly different spots. Yet on my walk, I saw scarcely a soul. Perhaps walkers are swallowed up in the vastness of The North York Moors. Large numbers of visitors (33.33% of the total, standard error 4.89%) to the North York Moors in 1985 came from the rest of Yorkshire and Teesside. Thirty years later there was still a large number of visitors from the rest of Yorkshire and Teesside, but the significance of these visitors has very probably increased (51.68% of the total, standard error, 4.09%) (Silson 1986 2015-16). The transport network is the same as it was in 1985 (Silson 1986 Ordnance Survey 2015). Even in that year, public transport was not good, and as a result of the increased usage of private cars, and central government’s austerity programme there has been a further recent decline in public transport. That many small villages continue to have a bus service at all is due to the establishment of voluntary groups; Ryedale Community Transport is a case in point (Ryedale Community Transport 2016a). However, there are several issues of concern about community transport. The frequency of services, which was poor even in 2007, has even been further reduced. For example, there were two buses on Mondays and Fridays, each way between Pickering and Rosedale Abbey; now there is only a Monday service (North Yorkshire County Council 2007 Ryedale Community Transport 2016b). The service between Ingleby Greenhow and Stokesley runs only once a week on Fridays. But this service raises another issue. Hikers are not allowed to travel on this bus (North Yorkshire County Council 2015). For them there is no bus service at all. Even when community buses do not discriminate against certain 8 travellers, they are solely planned with residents in mind, so the few services offered may be of no use to visitors. The Heather Hopper from Castleton runs only when groups of residents need it and pay for it (Joint parish forum 2015). Another issue concerning community transport is whether volunteers will always be available to run the buses at the times needed and how long people will continue to volunteer. The buses run by Ryedale Community Transport still depend on some subsidy from North Yorkshire County Council. The Moors Buses have also suffered a decline, but at least there has been a slight improvement this year. But still nowhere near the network that had been achieved earlier this century (NYMNPA 2013). People from the north (Teesside) are better served than those from the south as they have two services, which run throughout July, August and September on Sundays and Bank Holiday Monday (Moorsbus 2016). There is now no Moorsbus from York (NYMNPA et al 1988). A service called the Moors Explorer Bus from Hull connects with the 9-15 train from Leeds at Malton. Useful though this service is for visitors from York, East and West Yorkshire, it runs for only seven Sundays and two Bank Holiday Mondays a year (East Yorkshire 2016). The bus runs to Danby Lodge and along with the Teesside Moorsbuses provides a Sunday service across the moors. There is one service that did not exist in 1985-86 but which now on weekdays connects Lealholm, Glaisdale and Whitby (Service 99 2015). The best bus service continues to be the one linking Pickering and Helmsley but weekday evening services have been cut (North Yorkshire County Council 2007 and Scarborough and district 2016). There is still only one train route in the whole area. This connects Battersby and Glaisdale (and is part of the service between Whitby and Middlesbrough). And this service has been reduced on weekdays from seven trains each way to four (Silson 1986 northern 2016). There is still a summer only Sunday service. Urban settlement and services Within the area are four small towns: Stokesley, Helmsley, Kirkbymoorside and Pickering. Thirsk serves the South-Western corner, but virtually all of the town lies outside the area, so discussion will concentrate on the other four towns. These towns continue to provide the same kind of basic services that they did thirty years ago. As then they provide services that are either very rare or are usually non-existent in the villages and hamlets. The services include food shops, clothing shops, chemists, banks, and estate agents (Silson 1986 2015-16). Even in these towns, post office services have been cut. Helmsley has lost its full service but a reduced service is available in a local shop (Kitchin R 3 Sep 2016). If this shop cannot provide some services that residents need, then they are advised to travel to Malton Post Office. Yet bus services to Malton are not good. As in 1985, only Pickering and Thirsk have cinemas. All the towns have public swimming facilities except Kirkbymoorside, though those at Helmsley are only available in summer as theirs is an open-air pool. Pickering and Helmsley also cater for large numbers of tourists, just as they did thirty years ago. One of Helmsley’s attractions is a walled garden. Although it was built in the eighteenth century to grow fruit and vegetables for the Fevershams, a well-to-do local family, it had become derelict by the early 9 1990s. It then began to be restored. It is now open to the public and partly maintained by volunteers (Helmsley Walled Garden 2016). Other attractions include nearby Helmsley Castle and, only a few miles away, Rievaulx Abbey. Pickering also has a castle, but its main attraction is being a terminus for the North York Moors Railway. Services have improved since 1985, and trains now reach Whitby (North York Moors Railway 2016). However, the line runs just to the east of our area. As a result of the many tourists, both towns are awash with cafes, restaurants and shops selling ice cream. The bookshop in Pickering has closed despite the tourists but that in Helmsley was still open in 2015. Kirkbymoorside does not seem to attract so many tourists and on a Saturday afternoon in the summer of 2015 was very quiet compared to the bustle in Pickering. Stokesley, though it too is essentially a market town, was much busier than Kirkbymoorside on a Saturday in 2016. Despite the four towns having similar services in 2015-16 to the ones they had in 1985, there have been changes too. New houses have been erected in all four towns but the smallest number has been in Kirkbymoorside (Ordnance Survey 1981 1985 2015). This may change as a very large area in the west of the town is awaiting house construction (Yorkshire Post 2016). Stokesley has changed most. In the southern part of the town the area under glasshouses has increased. So too has the adjacent industrial estate. The building housing Quorn Foods was about to be erected in 1985, and the factory opened in 1986. Its factory chimneys are a rarity in the whole area. Most of the buildings on the industrial estate are low rise, and made of brick and corrugated metal (Silson 2015-16). Stokesley has experienced a huge increase in its number of houses. Most have been built in the North Western corner (Ordnance Survey 1981 2015). More are expected to be built. In 2015, a government inspector granted approval for 226 houses to be built off Tanton Road despite residents’ objections and Hambleton District Council’s rejection of the proposal (Love 2015). As in the rural areas, the middle-aged and the old are still more visible than youth. Away from the town centres, youth is as invisible today as it was in 1985. A handful of youths walked from a housing estate in front of me into Thirsk; young men were examining cars in the centre of Great Broughton; in Ingleby Greenhow, children hurried from cars that had ferried them to the village hall. And that was about all the youth I encountered in 2016. All the towns have cafes and restaurants and these include Asian cuisine in Stokesley and Pickering. Yet the towns, like the rural areas, continue to be overwhelmingly populated by white persons. I cannot recall seeing even one ethnic minority person during my field work both in 1985-86 and 2015-16. The whole area remains quintessentially white and county English. Women’s Institutes, horse riding, cricket and agricultural shows all continue to flourish though computer classes have reached Westerdale (Women’s Institutes 2016 Whitby Gazette 1 July 2016). Some detailed changes, principally in the decline of services in rural areas and the construction of new housing in the towns, have occurred since 1986. But most of the landscapes and most of the type of people are virtually the same. To visit the North York Moors in 2016 is to step back at least thirty years, so little has the area changed.

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Plate 1 Cereal growing on the plains, near Middleton, 1988

Plate 2 Cereal growing on the plains near Wrelton (shown in the background along with part of dip slope), 2015

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Plate 3 Cereal growing on the dip slope, near Carlton, looking north, 1985.

Plate 4 Cereal growing on the dip slope, same location as figure 3, 2015.

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Plate 5 Looking up Farndale 1985

Plate 6 Looking up Farndale, 2015

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Plate 7 Glaisdale, 1986

Plate 8 Glaisdale, 2015. Part of the moor is also shown.

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Plate 9 Sheep shearing Glaisdale, 2015.

Plate 10 Wooded scarp from possibly near Harland Moor, 1985.

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Plate 11 Wooded scarp from near Harland Moor, 2015

Plate12 Fadmoor, 1985.

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Plate 13 Fadmoor, 2015.

Plate 14 New affordable houses, Danby, 2016

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Plate 15 Butchers’ shop, Ingleby Greenhow 2016

Plate 16 Helmsley, 1981

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Plate 17 Helmsley, 2015

Plate 18 Kirkbymoorside, 1987

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Plate 19 Kikbymoorside, 2015

Plate 20 Food manufacturing factory, Stokesley, 2016

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Acknowledgement My thanks to the BBC for permission to use the information that I gathered to write about The North York Moors for the BBC Domesday Survey 1986. Also my thanks to Trevor Plows for converting my hand drawn map into the finished product seen in figure 1, and for formatting this article.

A note on field work Both the 1986 and 2016 essays are substantially based on field work that I carried out myself. Some of the routes followed were identical in 2015-16 to those followed in 1985-86. However, changes in the distance I could walk in a day and in public transport led to some differences in the places visited. For both essays, information was gathered on foot. I recorded the features which interested me. The land use of most of the fields I passed or walked through was recorded. Also recorded was the nature of field boundaries. The ages and use of rural buildings was observed and recorded. Churches were visited, and if open, any relevant information was recorded. Land use in towns was noted. People and their recreational activities such as horse riding were recorded. Printed sources were used to supplement information gathered in the field.

References Anonymous 2016 Affordable Housing in the North York Moors accessed 24 June 2016 Atkins D 22 July 2016 Farm on a winning “streak” with online bacon orders Whitby Gazette 25 Berry C 1 Aug 2015 Slender margins on the moors Country week Yorkshire Post 3 Berry C 8 Aug 2015 Family affair to bring agricultural showpiece to fruition in the moors Country week Yorkshire Post 12 Dairy farmers in Stokesley 2015 118118.com accessed 7Aug 2015 East Yorkshire 2016 Moors Explorer timetable Eyre SR and Palmer J 1973 The Face of North-East Yorkshire Dalesman a) 32-38 b) 90-93 Goudie A 1990 The landforms of England and Wales Blackwell 31-33 Joint parish forum 2015 Notes of meeting held at Whitby Museum 30 Sept 2015 accessed 15 June 2016 Helmsley Walled Garden Ltd 2016 accessed 18 Sept 2016 Kirkby in… 2016 accessed 15 June 2016 Kitchen R 3 Sep 2016 Fears over loss of rural services as hundreds of Post Offices are closed Yorkshire Post 6 21 Love L 2015 Controversial Stokesley housing development granted permission after appeal accessed 19 June 2016 Met Office 2016 Fylingdales climate Stockton-on-Tees climate Topcliffe climate Rainfall annual average 1981-2010 met office gov uk accessed 18 July 2016 Meteorological office 1977 Average annual rainfall 1941-1970 Southern Britain Northern Britain Moorsbus 2016 Moorsbus network timetable 2016 North Yorkshire County Council 2007 Transport times for moors and coast service 173 96 North Yorkshire County Council 2015 service DR 19 Stokesley market day service (Fridays only) from 17 April 2015 North York Moors Railway 2016 timetable northern 2016 train times 15 May-10 Dec 2016 NYMNPA 1997 Management plan consultation draft no page numbers NYMNPA 2010 Housing supplementary planning document 2010 accessed 1 Aug 2016a)11 b)19 and 21 c) 3-4d)5 e) 17 NYMNPA 2012 Management plan a) 48-49 b) 78-79 c) 104 NYMNPA 2013 Moorsbus timetable NYMNPA 2016 a) grouse shooting accessed 22 June 2016b) facts and figures accessed 7 July 2016c) Residential land survey report 1991-2015 accessed 22 June 2016 NYMNPA West Yorkshire York City transport 1988 timetable 821/824 Moorsbus Ordnance Survey 1981 NYM western area 1:25000 map Ordnance Survey 2001 NYM western area 1:25000 map Ordnance Survey 2015 NYM western area 1:25000 map Ordnance Survey 1985 NYM eastern area 1:25000 map Ordnance Survey 2001 NYM eastern area 1:25000 map Ordnance Survey 2015 NYM eastern area 1: 25000 map Ryedale Community Transport 2016a) a summary of the aims and background of the organisation accessed 17 Aug 2016b) timetable service 173 accessed 17 Aug 2016 Ryedale District Council 2001 Ryedale local plan accessed 5 Aug 2016 Ryedale District Council 2012 Local plan strategy 45 accessed 5 Aug 2016 Scarborough and district 2016 timetable service 128 Service 99 2015 timetable Silson A 1985-86 Recordings of field work observations on the North York Moors Silson A 1986 The North York Moors BBC Domesday Survey 22 Silson A March 1995 The scenery of set-aside Geographical Royal Geographical Society 58-59 Silson A 2015-16 Recordings of field work observations on The North York Moors Soil Survey of England and Wales 1983 Soils of England and Wales sheet 1 northern England Statham D C 1980 NYM Local plan NYMNPA a) 26 b) 5 c) 24 Statham D C 1984 NYMNP plan first revue 5- 10 Straw A and Clayton K 1979 Eastern and central England Methuen 14-17 Whitby Gazette 1 July 2016 30-32 Whitby Gazette 12 Aug 2016 Grants on offer in the national park 7 Whitby Gazette 26 Aug 2016 Post office plans to launch mobile service in villages 16 Women’s Institutes 2016 the wi.org.uk accessed 29 Aug 2016 Yorkshire Post 20 Aug 2016 Property Post 1

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