Updates to th Craglets 6 Edition Contents Collated by Roger Parkyn Ben Lomond...... 2 Bicheno...... 2 This version updated at: 16/3/2006 Bruny Island ...... 2 Cape Raoul...... 6 Cole’s Bay – Coastal Cliffs9...... 10 The general idea … Cole’s Bay – Hazards Cliffs ...... 12 Is to collate anything new into this document to facilitate both 1) getting the info out quickly to climbers and Flinders Island...... 14 2) providing a good info source for future guide books. I intend to make a distribution list and do a send-out Launceston Stuff ...... 14 whenever this is updated (if you want to be added to or taken off this list please e-mail me). Mount Brown ...... 15 Crescent Bay ...... 16 Mount Wellington ...... 18 Thank you: Odds & Sods ...... 24 I’ve done the collation and some of the writing but the other people you can thank for this info are: Sisters Beach ...... 25 David James, Al Williams, Norm Selby, Marcel Jackson; Bill Baxter; Ben Raymond; Andrew Chang; South Sister ...... 26 Nick Hancock; Alan Jackson; Garry Phillips; Phil Robinson; Tony McKenny. West Coast: Coastal ...... 27 West Coast: Tyndall Range ...... 28

New Route Info: Must be electronic. E-mail it to: [email protected] (don’t bother trying to tell me anything – I won’t remember it).

Please use plain text but follow the layout used here as closely as you can (e.g. with respect to capitalisation; title/length/grade; no “FA”; correct date format, no tab characters). Here’s an example (this is a very commonly used format in Australia!): *Rain of Terror 40m 18 Goes from the end of the 1967 access route, at the base of the Cake, up to the col on the north side of the Cake. In the corner is an off-width. Instead take the hand crack 4m right of it. Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnel & Nick Hancock, Jan 2003.

Copyright: This is copyright to the extent that you can not copy and sell it. It is OK to print for your personal use or to give away. It is also OK to e-mail it around. If you want to use info in here for a guide book please seek permission.

1 Ben Lomond

Born Loser 40m 23 Ben Lomond Climbs a series of left-facing corners left of Local Bicheno Bruny Island Winner. The FFA took five 8m screamers from by Roger Parkyn the crux over two attempts before cracking it. by Nick Hancock by Tony McKenny G.Narkowitz, Jul 1984. I’ve corrected the Local Loser topo and the N I C K P A R K The rock is unusual for dolerite as the cliffs are all description for Hidden Secrets and Born Loser. R O B I N S B U T T R E S S off vertical, providing less strenuous and gentler From the end of Harveys farm Rd, just after 321 climbing than is typical for this type of rock. Like Defender of the Faith (Correction) and before Avalon, walk south for 15 minutes all coastal cliffs, routes may need some cleaning Suggested grade 22 and it starts 5m left of Rajah until the path touches bare granite slabs. From before use but generally the rock is good. L O C A L L O S E R ( P 9 ) not Dangerman here go down and the right to a small crag about However, the top of most cliffs is loose and 30 m before the sea. unconsolidated and needs particular care. The most prominent reference feature is ** The King of Kings & The Social Leppers 90m 24 the super-dihedral with a fused crack. 1) 40m 24. 7m right of Rondeau climb the open The Wrong Trousers 6m 10 A greater danger is probably from wave action, This is not (yet) a climb. Hidden Secrets corner direct to some good finger-locks and Just left of the blank central slab, climb a crack particularly when a southwester is blowing, but starts about 5m left of this. monster rock-overs, to a scarey flakey finale. into a short right-facing corner. Sarah Hedges & most cliffs explored so far have at least some Nick Hancock July 2004. climbs accessible at any state of the tide. 2) 10m. Scramble up right over blocks to below Hidden Secrets 40m 20 an open corner. Start at the right end of the large boulder standing Chicken Run 6m 23 There are still many lines and crags to be explored out from the base of the cliff. Climb up the corner 3) 20m 23. Bridge widely up the twin cracks in To the right of the blank slab, climb a small blind but the drive from Hobart, and the cost of the ferry system, over the bulge, then traverse right. Climb the corner with poor protection to a scarey finish. right facing corner into a flaring finger crack. fare, may deter the masses. However, the situation upwards when you get to the famous “creaky 4) 20m. Up easily. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges July 2004. is stunning and the cliffs provide some of the best hold”. Belay on the large ledge. Colin Rees. easy climbing in the south east of the State. Gerry Narcowicz & Nick Hancock, Feb 2005. A Grand Day Out 5m 5 Four meters right climb an easy crack just left of Access: From the Ferry terminus (timetable the shrubbery. Sarah Hedges & Nick Hancock published daily in the Mercury) drive as far south July 2004. as you can, via Lunawanna, to the Lighthouse. Parking is available close by (approximately 2hr Tree Route 7m 10 from Hobart if coordinated with the car ferry). A few minutes past Nick Park, on the main track, is a huge boulder. Climb the tree that leans Camping/Accommodation: The nearest campsite against the south face of the boulder. Sarah for the South Bruny climbs is a couple of Hedges & Nick Hancock July 2004. kilometers before the lighthouse at Great Taylors Bay, on the right down Jetty Road (signposted). Bush toilets are available but bring your own water. Accommodation is also now available in the old Lighthouse Keepers Cottages run by Andy and Beth Gregory (April 2004). Call in and see them, they can also advise on access and prevailing weather conditions.

Park entry fees apply and passes are available from the D’Entrcasteaux Visitors Center at Kettering, or at registration booths at the Neck and the Lighthouse Road (Mable Bay).

NB The gate to the lighthouse area is closed from 5.30pm till 9.30 am.

2 Bruny Island

Q U I E T B A Y C O U R T S B A Y - C U R R Y C L I F F S Tiqa 26m 13 The ridge of Curry cliff leads down to a The open groove immediately to the right. L. point where the following small climb is Follow the open ridge top through the Walk up towards old lighthouse and head off left Wood & P. Bigg 20/7/76 located. Either traverse round over the burnt areas (2002) N. W. from the across the paddocks just after you pass the water from Lifespice or climb one of the Lighthouse gate and scramble down the generator sheds towards the new solar powered ***Steamed Rice 26 m 17 standard routes and scramble down from steep slope to the Bay. About 30 minutes. lighthouse. Cut down to the bay on the right The wide arête on the right. A classy climb. I. above. The following climb is to the right (Courts Bay) and follow the shoreline back west to Snape & C. Cole 16/6/01 of the small gulch. *Lest We Forget 45m 17 the crag. Excellent crack climbing, death on a stick finish. The next climb is the open book corner SkullDuggery 9m 15 Start by soloing round to the left onto the large This cliff cuts the beach at right angles and (about 1.5m wide). At the left end of the ledge is a left facing corner ledge. May be difficult in a high sea! The climb features a series of shallow, gentle-angled square and leaning hand crack. A touch awkward. Dave follows a sinuous groove at the left hand edge of cut grooves. A prominent feature is a short broken 1.5 Groove 22m 12 James and Matt Jones April 2002 the ledge, where the kelp starts. Belay back on the ramp about 6m up, almost above the high water Climbs the wide corner , bridging to the top. C. dry part of the ledge. mark. There is a fixed abseil point above (Basil) Rathbone & C Strang 28/6/76 Tandoori: use at your own discretion! Between the Curry cliff and the High Court cliff are 2 small buttresses the Step across to the bottom of the crack, trying to or the alternative (better): second nearer the big cliff has 2 routes. I’ll make nutmeat out of you 30m 12 keep your feet dry. Straight up the crack to the Descend to the left via large block. top. Ideally you would place a bolt here and abseil Traverse left from the base of Lifespice continuing (10m?) to a line beginning where there is a pale *Annapurna Special 22m 14 off: more likely you will fight your way through Climbs the twin cracks in the left hand side of the Lets get personal 15m 15 vertical crud to the top, wishing fervently you coloured rock-scar. Dave James and Matt Jones, Jan 2002 corner to the top. J. Mckenny, T. Meldrum &. T. The corner nearest the sea. The sloping corner were somewhere else. (It may be preferable to McKenny 16/12/02 leading to a colourful face then belay on prow. belay at half height to give you enough rope to get Shovels of Cumin 30m 11 Dave James and Rhiannon Arkins April 2001 through the crud at the top). T. & J. McKenny Sish Kebab 22m 12 25/4/03 Traversing left from the base of Lifespice slip left under the roof to climb the shallow left facing A narrow groove immediately to the right of the Guilty your honour 14m 6 1.5 m Groove. L. Wood & P. Bigg 20/7/76 The corner up and immediately right of Lets get Jingerbread Haven 70m 15 corner. Probably even more fun if the surf is up Dave James and Matt Jones 27/01/02 personal. Dave James and Christian Wehba May Interesting climbing marred by loose rock (!). Lassie 22m 12 2001 Start approximately 10m from the water, an The dirty looking crack on the right, which is obvious black overhang 8m above. *Lifespice 27m 14 The prominent groove and hand-crack left of the surprisingly not too bad a climb. T. McKenny, V. C O U R T S B A Y - H I G H C O U R T C L I F F 1 35m Climb the crack passing the overhang on broken section of cliff. Start at the waters edge if Van de Vusse & P. Robinson 13/3/04 the left. Follow the line past a huge loose block to the swell is friendly, bridge and jam and layback Situated 5-10 minutes walk south of the a jam crack (crux) which leads to a ledge on the on the right side of the groove before moving left Nosy Goreng 22m 12 lighthouse. From the lighthouse, follow left to meet the beginning of the splitter crack, Dave Left of “Shezan” (the prominent V groove) is a the track down toward Courts Island for a 2 35m Climb crack for 3m, traverse right under a James and Matt Jones 02/04/02 wide shallow ‘chimney’. The groove on the nose couple of hundred meters and head projecting rock to easier but steep unconsolidated immediately left of this, initially very loose but diagonally left to a steep bushy gully ground on a vegetated slope (sounds dreadful!). Tandoori 25m 10 has been cleaned. P. Robinson & C Rathbone leading down to the base of the crag. K. Bischoff & P. Robinson 22/4/79 Climb to the ramp and ascend the crack that leads 19/5/79 Alternatively (and probably better), from the top of the gully follow the cliff top from its right hand end to the top of the cliff. L. Wood & P. Bigg 20/7/76 Stackless 22m 12 round to the right and down to a cairn. Climbs the crack on the right side of the shallow Trend left to a 50-metre abseil from some C O U R T S B A Y chimney, immediately left of Shezan. P. Robinson (The two short cracks to the left of solid boulders above Ocean Highway. & T. McKenny 13/3/04 Two cliffs, one 32m high and the other 50m, have Tandoori have been climbed at around 10 The rest of the cliff top is unsafe. – 12 by Bill and Patrice Baxter, February been visited here but other smaller buttresses Shezan 20m 15 2004) *All in Good Tide 50m 18 would also probably yield some climbs. The classic V groove with an obvious hand jam On the waters edge, sky rocketing 50-metre twin crack running through an area of red rock. L. cracks, a classic. Climb the two thin cracks, **Chilli, Chilli Sauce 25m 18 Wood & P. Bigg 20/7/76 The narrow arête right of Tandoori. Great position approx. one meter apart, in the open corner. P. with blankish sections at the top where ‘pro’ can Robinson & S. Scott 5/2/04 be found in the Tandoori crack immediately to the left. T. McKenny & P. Robinson 13/3/04 *Ocean Highway 50m 13 The next corner crack to the right. A fine direct crack line. C. Rathbone & P. Robinson 19/5/79

3 Bruny Island

Out of the Shadow 50m 15 C O U R T S I S L A N D - E A S T C L I F F Tidal Temerity 40m 15 Thin as a Lark’s Skull 100m 17 1.5m right of Ocean Highway, the obvious corner Follow a clean narrow corner for 30m to the ledge. The route follows the right hand line. Start by crack. Move onto the buttress at the very top to After crossing the causeway walk south The crack closes near the top. From the ledge scrambling across at the foot of the wall to a small avoid the vegetation. P. Robinson & M. Steane (left) along the shoreline towards the climb easily to the top. C. Rathbone, P. Robinson, corner directly below the line. 14/4/79 cliffs. Approximately 100m from where J. Wills-Johnson & K. Bischoff 19/5/79 1 20m Move left, then right over large angular the cliffs meet the sea is an obvious short, blocks to a substantial ledge with a small bush at Shadow Variant 50m 14 clean line consisting of twin cracks. F L U T E D C A P E the base of a square cut cleft capped by a large Approximately two thirds of the way up Out of the Looks harder than it is! overhang. Shadow, step right and follow next line up loose Take the turn off to Adventure Bay 2 20m Hand jam up crack in left corner of cleft in blocks to the top. M. Steane & P. Robinson (C630) to reach Fluted Cape. The walking Belay in the burrow 60m 12 roof. Move right and (crux) cross the overhang. 13/4/79 track begins at East Cove, the southern 1 20m Up twin cracks to belay on ledge above Belay after a further 3m. jammed blocks. most part of Adventure Bay Beach. There Anty-Falaxis 50m 17 is free camping at Neck Beach, Cloudy 3 25m Continue up the obvious groove/chimney. 2 40m Follow broken rock and vegetated slope to Next line right, twin cracks followed by a long Bay and Jetty Beach, or you can pay to Exit left at the top to scrubby ledge at the base of a top. No belay except for mutton-bird burrows. Use intimidating V-corner, which is climbed with help camp at the Adventure Bay Holiday deep square cut gully. a threaded sling or rope. (May be better to abseil from the crack on the left. S. Scott and P. Village. 4 20m Ascend gully – more difficult than it Robinson 5/2/04 from top of first pitch). P. Robinson & K Bischoff 21/4/79 appears. Park entry fees apply and passes are 5 15m Climb up to sloping roof on left. Cross Philadelphia Sidewalk 40m 15 available from the D’Entrcasteaux wall below the roof to very exposed position on At the bottom of the grassy slope is a large Visitors Centre at Kettering, or at C O U R T S I S L A N D - O C E A N B U T T R E S S rib. Climb crack to top (Aid used on first ascent to blankish section of the cliff with three thin cracks. registration booths at the Neck and the Climbs the obvious line. P. Bigg & S. Parsons cross wall, subsequently freed. Walk over to the far southern tip of the Lighthouse Road (Mable Bay). 10/78 S. Parsons and P. Bigg 1978 Island. On the southeast side of the tip, above a deep gulch, are some impressive Follow the Grass Point track to the open Philadelphia Freeway 40m 19 grassland at the end of the point before looking cliffs, rising from a shore Casuarina Chimney 54m 13 Up the centre of the three cracks. An impressive turning back south to climb steeply up platform. The routes may be best viewed Gain access to the base of the obvious cliff line by line. P. Bigg & S. Parsons 10/78 past the cliff tops (signposted). (Ignore from the N E side of the gulch. traversing south over a steep ramp of bush and the first sign you pass to Fluted Cape) Wish You Were Here 40m 15 broken rock. Pass under the main wall, an inset Probably best to abseil down the loose section of more broken rock and a vague rib Approximately 8m uphill from the foot of the mud On the way up, heading south and after choss from the very end of the point to running up to a prominent pinnacle. Ascend left slope are twin cracks, 60cm apart, up a corner. passing a solitary pillar on the left, there When the cracks run out, move onto the left the wavecut platform and then scramble (south) of the rib to the base of the cliff line. back round to the east towards the gulch, is a steep dirty descent gully about 100 m buttress. M. Steane and P. Robinson 14/4/79 The route is about 10m left of the crack which preferably at low tide and/or calm sea. before the big Parched Pillar cliff. The surrounding cliffs are vertical and up to separates the pinnacle from the main cliff. Easter Aftermath 40m 12 150 m high and there are many excellent 1 35m Climb the chimney over a chock stone and Further up the hill (10m) are two open *Shearwater 45m 12 lines here, though the rock is often Walk round shelf into the gulch to a small but an overhang to a large ledge. “chimneys”. The route takes the left-hand one. suspect. Inspection on abseil is advised. Belay at base of the crack on the left, beneath the distinct triangular roof at about 3 m, at the widest 2 20m Climb the obvious crack to top. point of the shelf, just before it ends. The climb chimney. Up the crack for 10m to grassy ledge, These descriptions are taken from the first L.J. Wood and A. Bowden 4/8/75 starts 2m to the left, up the obvious crack. Bridge then bridge up chimney to exit past bush at top. P. ascent descriptions. Robinson & M. Steane 14/4/79 and jam to the top, passing a ledge on the left at half height. P. Robinson and K. Bischoff 21/4/79 Blowfly 139m 14(M1) Quick Drink 15m 16 C O U R T S I S L A N D Traverse across scrubby ground at the base of the (Probably the line of Canute climbed by J. Good clean finger crack on the RHS of the descent main wall. To the left of the main wall is a section gully (facing the cliff). I. Snape & C. Cole of more broken rock with some vegetation on it. A short walk down the ridge southwest McKenny, T. McKenny 16/12/02) 15/6/01 Start near the base of the crack which runs up the from the Lighthouse leads to the right hand side of a clean slab. There is a bush (!) causeway across to Courts Island, which The cliffs on the seaward side north of the gulch are reached by abseil to a shore Further round, there are a series of at the base of the crack. hosts a mutton-bird rookery. At low tide prominent lines that cut the main wall. platform (facing N E) 1 23m Reach the crack from the left. Climb the you can walk or wade across (about 50m) Two of these lines, close together, run up crack to a step right onto the corner. Move round but difficulty may be experienced at high the center of the wall. tide or in rough sea. Check at the the corner and up to a scrubby gully to a ledge at Keepers Cottage if in doubt. the top of the crack.

4 Bruny Island

2 23m Traverse left past a small projecting flake and large tree into a corner with a jammed block Details of the following routes are not yet below a small overhang. Climb the corner and known but further information would be obvious continuation of the line to a stance behind gratefully received! a large detached block. 3 20m Climb the chimney to an awkward Aquabat 17 overhang at about 13m and the continuation of the Route not known. S. Parsons, D. Bowman and R. line to a stance at the base of a corner with twin Wells 1978. cracks. 4 33m Move right into a deep chimney, climbing Vanity 19 the right wall, past several large trees to a step left Starts near Aquabat, crosses this line to a 20m onto a large jammed block. traverse, under clinging to difficult off-width hand 5 20m Ascend a couple of meters to an awkward crack up wall above. S. Parsons and P. Bigg 1978 bulge and, using a sling for aid, move up to the right hand crack until a step right into a crack is Bombs Away 18 possible. Climb this to two small trees at the right Three pitches, it was very loose! N. Deka, B. hand end of a sloping slab. McMahon 1980s 6 20m Cross the slab to a large ledge and ascend the obvious line at the back of the ledge to the top of the cliff. L.J. Wood and A. Bowden 1/10/75

Parched Pinnacle 143m 15 “Varied climbing and exhilarating situations in magnificent surroundings” Start at the base of Blowfly. Pitches 1,2 and 3 are shared with Blowfly but take a more direct line. 1 23m Climb the crack in the slab direct to a ledge with a large tree. 2 20m Move left to a corner with a jammed block on top. 3 Up the continuation of the line past an overhang to a stance at the base of a square cut corner. 4 27m Crux. Jam to the top of the corner and move up diagonally left to the gap at the base of the pinnacle. 5 17m Chimney up between the pinnacle and the main face until the two merge. Flick a nut into the continuation of the line above and use this to gain the gap at the base of the detached portion of the pinnacle. Easily to the top of the pinnacle. 6 13m Cross to the main face and move diagonally right over a few loose blocks. Turn the corner, step down and climb a finger crack to a large ledge. 7 20m Finish up the obvious line at the rear of the ledge. L.J. Wood and P. Robinson 21/2/76

5 Cape Raoul

Moving quickly and light it is possible to do any C A P E C L I M B S N O R T H O F T H E W E D D I N G Cape Raoul of these climbs as a daytrip although it is a big C A K E Access to Wedding Cake – Low Route day. Camping on the plateau at the end of the It is possible to get to the Wedding Cake via The by Roger Parkyn walking track makes for a more relaxed trip For the cliffs beyond where the track Cultural Void as described previously. The low although drinking water needs to be carried. finishes there are two alternate route used in 1967 is quicker - but less scenic! To This place is pretty amazing. The trip to the end There is a pond about 15 minutes before the end approaches. One follows the crest of the use this low route go down the gully between the of the Cape has the flavor of an alpine ridge climb but the water isn’t drinkable and dries up over ridge down to the first col and was used lookout and the Cape (near where the walking while the new pillar routes are quality sport summer. to access The Finger of Blame (and is track forks) via a 30m abseil (halved 50m rope climbs. The situation is spectacular. Overall, one described with that route). The other will only reach if you take about 8m of rope to tie- of the most enjoyable and memorable days out alternative is to drop to the bush below off the abseil tree with!). To find the top of this you’ll get anywhere. the cliffs on the east side. From there it is gully from the walking track look for the lowest possible to walk to the base of The looking part of the terrain (a fairly obvious starting Cape Raoul is 1:45 drive from Hobart followed by Wedding Cake. It is possible to switch point for a gully!). This is discernable despite the a 1:45 walk. Take the Tasman Highway and turn between these routes about half way scrub. Then look for a breach in the vegetation off about 7 km past Port Arthur onto Highcroft Rd. along (where both involve some walking (you will know it when you find it). Fork right at 2 km and right again after another 5 through bush). km and follow this to the car park (another 3 km). It is awkward to re-ascend the top 25 m of this gully so it is advisable to fix a rope here. The walk is about 6 km and not too hilly – it starts ØØØ The Finger of Blame 14m 23 The walk through the bush is rough but OK. The and finishes about 200 m and crests in the middle This is the thinnest pinnacle visible from the route is pretty clear. at about 430 m. There are some good views along lookout – the last before the Wedding Cake. the way. 1) 200m 12 Abseil off the ridge at the very end of A new alternative to the gully is a bolted entry/exit the track: 10m ab off a block; scramble 40m; 5m route connecting the 40 m scramble (described in ab (U’s); 10m scramble; 35m ab (chain). From access to The Finger) and the track. One 50 m rap here scramble/ab down another 20m then walk (after the 10 m rap) gets you down to the low track across and down to the Way of Allah. This ledge at about the edge of the access photo-topo. About system includes a short section of about grade 12 grade 17 to re-ascend. This reduces the need to plus another dodgy bit and ends at the Cultural leave abseil ropes in place (although two parties Void. who have used this route don’t recommend it). 2) 30m 18 To cross The Cultural Void start by scrambling up the 3m boulder/flake on the near There are two routes described to ascend wall to a double bolt belay. From here go the Wedding Cake. diagonally about 5m to a bolt. Lower off this until it is possible to stick-clip a bolt on the far side of DC Chimney H V Diff (16?) the void. Pull across then hand traverse leftwards This is mentioned in 1960’s accounts: “the main to the base of The Finger. Airy! weakness in the cliffs … the Douglas-Christie 3) 14m 23 Take the arête to the top (fully bolted). Chimney”. I presume it is the chimney left of the off-width (which is left of Rain of Terror). Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnel & Douglas & Christie, 1960’s. Norm Selby Dec 2002.

T H E W E D D I N G C A K E

The trip to the pillars at the end of the Cape is pretty amazing and will leave you with a lot of respect for the first descentionists who somehow did it without cams etc. The big lump between The Finger and the end of the Cape was called “The Wedding Cake” by the climbers in the 1960’s.

6 Cape Raoul

Ø Rain of Terror 40m 18 B E Y O N D T H E W E D D I N G C A K E Alternative Low Level Route from Wedding Cake to The pillars at the end are described in the Goes from the end of the 1967 access route, at the Cape via Eastern Side order you reach them (north to south). base of the Cake. Start with scramble/climb Route from Wedding Cake to Cape Phil Robinson dug up this description from the The first two are modern style and the last steeply up to the foot of the old chimney-corner to 1) Walk to the far end of the Cake and abseil (off CCT circular of July 1976: two were done in the 1960’s. The Cape belay for the 40m pitch above. In the corner is an links) 25m onto the east side. Re-ascending this “A new low-level route was followed to the end appears to have been the site of a lot of off-width. Instead take the hand crack 4m right. bit takes about 30 m of rope and is about grade 16 of the cape. This was first discovered by Col activity back then. There is a large ledge at 30 m (which we stopped – climb up going left a little to a hand crack – Hocking and Vili Bartholomew a few months to haul from) but you can continue up to the col on through this (crux) then up and rightwards to a ago. They reached an impasse 20 foot above the ØØØ Pole Dancer 40m 22 the north side of the Cake via the wide crack. chimney. waves. AKA “Power Pole”. This is on the first (northern) There are two U’s to belay on at the col. This col 2) Walk down then along and up to col (about pillar. is also an alternative access to the Finger of Blame From the foot of 'The Wedding Cake', continue 100m). Don’t go to the very end of where you can down to the left and round the corner. Scramble 1) 15m 14. Climb the chimney to a large ledge on (up the wide crack north of the col). Roger walk but about 20m short. Parkyn, Doug McConnel & Nick Hancock, Jan up a grassy gully then traverse diagonally down, the north side of the Pole. 2003. 3) 55m 12. Over a couple of lumps on the ridge. following the obvious weaknesses. Most of the 2) 25m 22. Superb and sustained arête climbing It is possible to reach chains (about 55m) if route is scrambling on steep ground with the sea in a wild and amazing place (and fully bolted). ØØ Jihad 30m 18 belayer starts climbing before they are reached. a few hundred feet below. (Do not slip). Down- Altogether this makes one of the best, and From the col on the north side of the Cake take the Similar difficulty to reverse. climb a 20' chimney (grade 5) and then certainly the most memorable, 22’s in the country. hand crack 2m left of the arete. Roger Parkyn, 4) 10m+15m. Abseil down chimney (grade 13 to immediately to the left an 80' chimney (grade 9). This brings one onto a platform some 20' above Roger Parkyn, Nick Hancock, Doug McConnel, Doug McConnel & Nick Hancock, Jan 2003. re-ascend). Walk around towards the next col Feb 2003. (about 15m) to reduce drag on the next pitch. the sea. Walk round toward the end of the Cape, climb across another chimney and round a 5) 50m 14 From the col follow a descending line corner to the final obstacle - a 20' crack ØØØ Pole Axed 40m 21 of ledges on the eastern side to the base of the dropping into the swell. At this point a calm sea The next pillar along. Pillars. Similar difficulty to reverse. is required! The crack is wet and difficult to 1) 20m 16. Climb the chimney to a large ledge on This trip can be done with a pretty small rack down-climb (grade about 14). 15' above the top the south side. Use the first bolt on the next pitch (medium sized cams seemed to get used most and of the climb, some nuts can be fixed in a crack. for the belay. #4 Camalot occasionally). The climber is lowered down to a ledge 3' above 2) 20m 21. Follow the flake to a ledge. Continue the water, which varies from 0' - 4' in depth up the arête to the top (fully bolted). depending on the swell. On the ledge he gathers some slack rope, waits for the swell to fall, then Nick Hancock, Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnel, jumps onto the kelp platform and runs like hell. Andrew Irvine, Dec 2003. Only a few seconds elapse before the water crashes in again. The rope is left fixed. One is The Second Pillar of Hercules HVDiff & A1? now on the seal platform - honk-stink. Most of This is an excerpt from “The Climbers Log” which the seals will have slobbered into the sea by this I photocopied before it was lost or stolen in the stage. Only a short walk brings one to the end early 1990’s. They numbered the pillars one to of the cape: and mind-blowing cliffs 4' - 600' four, with one being furthest towards the end of high. The number of routes is phenomenal. the Cape. The return trip is another epic of judgment and “At 7:00am we left camp, ascended The speed. One is essentially on the end of a Wedding Cake and traversed out to the Pillars of pendulum. When the sea drops one runs to the Hercules. base of the crack, jams and is hauled up it as quickly as possible. We commenced to drill the artificial pitch of the Glen Kowalik, Basil Rathbone, Phil Robinson, second pillar at 10:15. Five expansion nails had John Chambers 4/4/76.” been placed on previous attempts, four of them Sounds dodgy in terms of risk from swell! by Douglas and G Wyatt last May. Another five nails were put in and the summit gained at 1:15pm. Two drills were broken on this occasion. The expansion nails were Dryvins (1 ½ x ¼ inch). [These are looking pretty dodgy now!]

7 Cape Raoul

The total length of the pillar climbed by this 1) 25m. the right-hand crack (the last 3-4 metres Hoorayfabob 70m 17 Troublemaker 25m 17 means was approx 40 ft.” was aided on the first ascent). The left facing corner to the right of Hellfire. It The dog-legged hand crack to the immediate right 2) 40m climb the corner before moving up and awaits a direct start. of Punky Brewster. 1) 25m, the crack then mantle Ascent by Mike Douglas and Geoff Batten during right at the ledge to avoid the unattractive 1) 15m as for Hellfire. before moving right to fist crack and block to Aug 31 to Sep 2, 1967. small left facing corner above (or go left to PB). chimney. Once around the corner climb up the 2) 25m move right onto the next ledge at the hand-crack with the axe head at the top and the Belay here before carefully scrambling up through Pillar of Hercules corner base and climb to a semi-hanging belay the Badlands before descending seaward and down final short face above. Dave James, Tom Diltz below a narrow over-lap on the right wall. Another excerpt from “The Climbers Log”: and Sam Brewster June 2000. to the abseil spike. Dec 2000 3) 30m continue jamming and pass the roof at the “After a 4 am start The Wedding Cake was Mindfire 65m 18 right . Continue to the top and exit via the Party Joymaster 27m 17 ascended and the party continued along the Ascends the left wall of the large chimney left of Stone. Margie Jenkin and Dave James Nov 2000. Several metres left of the flaring off-width. The ridge beyond the furthest point reached last year. The Shells of Rheban. The line is not visible from shallow left facing corner leads to the right facing the other side of the valley. Gate keeper Pinnacle 50m (incl. approach pitch) 15 Eventually a route was found to the Pillars of 20m Down hill from Hoorayfabob a relatively corner and cracks above. Dave James and Pete Hercules (Matchsticks) and a long pitch 1) 7m. very carefully access the first belay ledge short pinnacle (the Gate keeper) is detached from Guiver June 2000. chimneying up airily between two of them led to by climbing a few metres up the left facing corner the main face by a narrow chimney, the first ascent the top of one. [they don’t say which one but I and crack then stepping left. arranged a rope abseil, if you don’t like it take a Smileshine 30m 15 guess it is the last one as this description doesn’t 2) 25m beautiful climbing leads to a small belay big sling. Start at the broken slabs and blocks to The Double cracks and corners a bit further down? fit the other three]. atop a flake. the right of the pinnacle. Dave James and Pete Guiver June 2000

The trip involved Reg Williams, Tom Terry, Mike 3) 33m, continue awkwardly though the roof then 1) 20m. Via the easiest route climb up and left to CMC, C O A S T A L M O U N T A I N C R A G Douglas and Tim Christie [1967 or earlier]. an opportunity leads excitingly left and up to the the base of the pinnacle and chimney. final crack, face then final belay of Skyborne. 2) 30m. Placing gear when you can, climb the This cliff is above the Jim. Somewhat Doug Grubert and Dave James Feb 2001. chimney passing the two chockstones on the complicated by mutual ledges and pitches The Shells of Rheban 70m 17 19 according to outside (cliff right). Tim Whelan and Dave James, it has some great moderate crack C L I M B S N O R T H O F T H E E N D O F T H E C A P E hamish?? December 2001. climbing. Features visible from the Perhaps the most obvious line on the cliff, the plateau opposite include the Leaning Upon reaching the pond a dramatic vista mediocre 2nd pitch is tolerable after the first 50 Tower of Pizza, the Milestone and the T H E J I M of cliffs is revealed. Sheer 200 m high metres of magic. The crack splitting a pillar set Groovy Penguin (Angels of Imagination). cliffs extend for the remaining 1 km to out from the cliff slightly (about 200m down the Access is by climbing one of the routes at the end of the track. Some of the lines gully) that finishes on a large ledge 3/4 of the way The Jim is the small buttress further down the Jim. have been climbed … [Thanks to Dave up the cliff. Scramble in from the left. the valley from the gate-keeper pinnacle. Capped by an unfortunate band of loose James for all this info ]. 1) 50m 19. The incredible crack, 3x #3 cams Ocean of Wisdom 17 140 and scrubby stuff. The Jim has some fun (Friends?) useful. Starts as hand sized, and has Directly up from Punky Brewster is a short leaning shorter routes and is the access to routes some great over hanging sections, before widening (out) pillar (The Leaning tower of Pizza), on the more intricate cliffs above. to a fist crack towards the top. A long, tiring immediately to the right is a hand crack. Descend via the spike abseil (req sling) at P O N D G U L L Y C R A G pitch. the top of Smileshine or keep on 1) 25m climb the hand-crack past a large flake 2) 20m climb/scramble up and right to the Party climbing. before stepping right to a small belay in a small About 20min before the end of the Cape Stone and thus the cliff. top. Dave James, Hamish corner. Raoul track, near the ephemeral pond, is a Jackson Oct 1999. 2) 25m continue directly up the corner into a hand steep valley that runs to the sea. Near the Punky Brewster 25m 15 and fist crack that leads to a bouldery ledge and top of the valley and the scree shute, three Hellfire 70m 16 The chimney and crack 10m right of the left end of cracks lead to a somewhat dirty ledge, at The long corner next line right of The Shells of the crag. 1) 25m the chimney leads to and past the possible belay. Walk a few metres to the left to a Rheban hand crack in right facing corner and continue to a about 25-30m . Punk a large protruding and over hanging flake. 1) 15m the dirty crack and flaring chimney leads Belay carefully at the top of the final hand-crack ledge at the base of the wide chimney. to a dirty ledge on the right before scrambling up then right and then down to 3) 50m start with the hand-crack and flake Baudin 20m 17 the Smileshine descent. Dave James, Sam The left most crack. 2) 50m climb the corner past the large dagger continuing to where the arching flake on the left Brewster, Rhiannon Arkins and Ian Riley, 2000 wall may be reached then climb till you cross the 1)20m a neat hand-crack. Dave James and Simon shaped flake to a belay at the top of the corner on the left. line again to the right wall for some face moves Locke 2004. before it becomes easy to bridge back to the left 2) (continue as for Skyborne or brave the 3) 5m up and right to the Party Stone. Dave James wall. Exit the chimney out left, climbing through chimneys straight up) and Tim Whelan 2000. the tree to belay at small ledge behind a second Skyborne 60m 18A1 tree. the right most crack

8 Cape Raoul

4) 35m the natural continuation is directly up the Flems Desire 16 150m E X -T R I G C R A G 1) 30m climb the cracks then continue past blocks less than attractive wide cracks but the first ascent A variant to routes on CMC. To access climb one and corners to a light coloured triangular sloping followed them for a few metres only before an of the routes at The Jim (~30m) then traverse Further along the track from the large ledge backed by an off width. under cling move left gains another Cape Raoul round the corner to the right to find a right facing valley (or the pond) there used to be a trig 2) 25m continue directly up to a left facing corner hand crack to the cliff top. Dave James and Mark, corner with a small slab at its base, start here. station which is now gone so it isn’t a and soon thereafter the scrub. Dave James and Feb 2002 This is approximately 10m left of the start of good marker, you might detect a Pete Guiver 2000. Angels of Imagination. remaining lump of concrete though. One Journey agent 150m 15 A groovy stone adventure sharing commonalities 1) 15m climb the corner to a (small?) ledge backed climb has been done here with SBT. by two large cracks. L O O K O U T C R A G 1) As for Sun Beam Traveller 2) 25m step off the ledge into the natural Rambo Rhetoric 18 60m Near the end of the walking track a side continuation, the V-chimney and fist crack, this 1)25m A hand and fist crack leads to more 2) As for SBT track leads left (towards Mt Brown) to a leads to a right facing corner with a shrinking hand featured but steep terrain, the crack system peters cliff facing Cape Raoul proper. 3) 15m Climb the middle of the three cracks. crack, this leads directly to a short face with a out conveiniently where a step left accesses a Layback then chimney to a ledge at the base of a hand-crack and a thinner crack, climb these to a ledge,belay here. chimney/groove possessing a hand-crack and a blocky and vegetated ledge below a large 2)35m a few metres higher move left again (sorry Roger not sure where to rap off). In finger crack chockstone. carefully around questionable rock and continue December 1995 we kind of assumed this route and ones on the cape had been climbed in the 70’s. 4) 40m A long pitch of jamming up the groove 3) 15m bridge into the wide crack before carefully following your nose to the top. Dave James and following the hand-crack on the left when the moving around the capping boulders to a ledge at Ben Rhee Aug 2002(though not cleanly-with a cracks diverge. single rest on gear at 24m). Swotvac (retronamed) 50m 17 the base of the Milestone. A detached pillar should be discernable from the 5) 35m Moving right to meet with the latter part of 4) 60m Continue as for Pitch 5+ of Sunbeam T H E F U T U R E end of the main track. Is this the one about 5-10 m pitch 5 of SBT. Tim Whelan and Dave James. Traveller. from where the track ends? I infer this climb goes June 2001 Some 10-15 minutes further along the Dave James and Dave Fleming Jan 2002 up the left side of it? track from the Valley (or the pond) is the Sunbeam Traveller 150m 16 1) 25m A right-facing corner and crack to a small Angels of Imagination 16 150m Future, a chasm which runs to the sea. A delightful journey up a wild crag via lovely vegetated ledge. stone. There are a number of possible belays so (AKA The Groovy Penguin) Descend from the south facing wall at the split and combine pitches as desired. 1) 30m Climb Smileshine or one of the other shortest point possible essentially 2) 25m up a few metres and squeeze into the descending over Snail Trail (~50m). A chimney behind the detached pillar and squirm to 1) Climb Smileshine or one of the other routes at routes at The Jim before traversing carefully right good view of the south facing (northern) the top. Mikey Thomas, Dave James and Mark the Jim and scramble up to a fist crack and short (about 20-30m) and up to a broken left facing wall may be obtained from atop the Stuver. Nov 1995. open left facing corner. corner southern wall. Directly opposite a 2) 20m Climb the corner before stepping right to a 2) 30m climb the fist crack to a ledge and continue cairned boulder three major lines may be ledge then continue up hand-crack on face to a up the right facing corner before moving left past a viewed. “Nemesis the Angry Cornflake” large ledge. prominent chockstone. Continue up and is the left hand line with a yellow section diagonally left and scramble to belay in wide 3) 30m Above is a large corner with two large half way up. Tape recommended. chimney (small amphitheatre) with 3 cracks. cracks and a spooky stone needle at the base. 3) 15m SBT takes the right hand crack. Climb the Bridge and squirm to a possible belay on the left Nemesis the Angry Cornflake 17 60m flaring crack to hand crack and continue through which is at the base of the long chimney behind Start: at a wide broken groove with 2 possible the next hand and fist crack to large ledge at the the Groovy Penguin. Continue over the means of climbing around large blocks at several base and left side of the Milestone pillar (a chockstones and belay on the last one. metres height to a wide crack in a shallow right detached 15m pillar). 4) 40m The long classic chimney pitch. Chimney, facing corner with a thinner fusing crack to the 4) 15m The narrow but friendly chimney behind chimney, chimney then step to the pillar and climb right. the pillar to belay on its summit. to belay on top of the pillar. 1) 30m climb to the large crack then bridge and 5) 55m Step off the Milestone to its right to funky 5) 30m Step back to the mainland and climb squirm past side-pulls before moving right into the holds and groovy crack. Moving left at the ledge mediocre rock to top. Dave James, Margie Jenkin hand-crack. Continue to a semi-hanging belay at continue via ledges and corners to a steep hand 2001. the yellow rock. crack then final corner and top. Dave James and 2) 30m More jamming to the top. Dave James Margie Jenkin Sept 2000 and Dave Fleming Feb 2002 Snail Trail 16 55m Starting at the twin cracks on the northern wall just below the cave at the chasm head.

9 Cape Raoul

Excellent gear with the following range: 0.7-1.5 S E N T R Y B O X Cole’s Bay – Coastal Friends for the lower section plus one larger size wire, then smaller wires up to size #4 stopper for ** Fridge Magnet 26 10m Cliffs the upper section. Number 3 and 4 Friends useful Powerful side-pulling up the double-edged arête for belay – placements are a few meters back from starting about 5 m left of Rainbow Groove via 4 Info from Phil Robinson; Garry Phillips; Marcel edge. F.A. Hamish Jackson, 29/4/2003 (lead with bolts to a single bolt lower-off. Nick Hancock Jackson; Bill Baxter. gear in place). Nov 04.

Truency 12m 23* *Shogun 22 10m The right hand end of the east facing wall of the A lower level double arête with 3u bolts. Looking N O R T H T O U R V I L L E ( P 37 ): amphitheatre has a small roof at about 2m This at the Sentry box crack walk directly behind you T H E Q U A D R A N G L E climb goes straight up at the rightmost reachable and go 5m you will reach the top of the climb. N Selby 28/12/2003. At the northern end of the main Cape Tourville point of the roof. Interesting finger pockets and under-clings to start then some balancy layaways cliffs is a relatively impassable zawn, and the only I S L A N D Z A W N ( P 4 9 ) climb north of this zawn recorded to date is Rotten and cranks to finish. F.A. Hamish Jackson Plumb (actually the first route done on the Cape). 29/4/2003 (top-rope). NB: Head-point to be attempted; please do not bolt this route. I’m stuck and I can’t get out 20m 19 The North Tourville area is the area of cliffs and Climb the gaping off width on the southern side of boulders north of this zawn, and is accessed Island Zawn. Kim Robinson, John Forcett 1997 differently to the rest of Cape Tourville cliffs (no WARNING: the big flake system on the abseil required). main cliff above the Eidolon boulder is steeper than it looks and would actually Bloody Obvious 15m 18 Climb the clean crack on the left hand side of the Access: From the carpark, head clockwise along be half decent if it wasn't made of gravel. east face. Kim Robinson, John Forcett 1997 the tourist circuit for about 100m then head It has been climbed, but should not be northeasterly to the cliff edge along vague paths. repeated. Simplistic View 20m 20 Follow cliff edge for about 200m north (it is Climb the right-angled groove on the arête to the easiest close to the edge) until a descent (50-100m A L C H E M Y left of ‘Boris’. Kim Robinson, John Forcett 1997 scramble) may be made down a gully. There are several gullies where descent is possible, but early ***L'Obsession 22 20m Flying V 35m 17 options tend to end badly. The earliest safe option To the right of Exquisite Tenderness. 5 bolts. Climb the obvious arête behind Island Zawn, the can be located by reference to the Nugget islands: N.Selby 7/6/2003. arête left of ‘A Nice day for Kicking Goals’. Kim At this point, the two southern most nuggets Robinson, John Forcett 1997 should no longer be overlapping from your line of perspective (ie water should just be visible S E C O N D R A M P ( P 4 5 ) L A S S I E S ’ S W A L L ( P 53 ) separating the left end of the southern most island from the right end of the second most southerly Struck Off 10m 24 island). When down to the slabs, head south along On small pinnacle at left end of crag, climb open From Phil Robinson: Most of the lines in the base for about 300m until a very big boulder groove on north side to roof and bolt. Hard moves the Sixth Edition are marked in the wrong dominates the slab (it is joined to the cliff and is to BB on top. Nick Hancock & Norm Selby Mar place. Use this topo instead. only just passable on the seaward side). The 03. southern face of the boulder is split by a blindingly D E E P W A T E R Z A W N ( P 5 5 ) obvious diagonal crack (small roof at about 5m). T R A V E L L A N D ( P ) This face also forms the northern wall of a small Harpic Bliss 15m 18 amphitheatre, The Quadrangle. This beautiful *Wild Willy 8m 24 A classic off-width up the middle right of the amphitheatre and parts of the cliff above have The overhanging arete left of Hugs n Kisses. G beautiful white face behind the southern side of potential for several difficult climbs. Phillips, May 03. the bouldering area near Square Zawn (AKA Deepwater Zawn). Good rock. If you like Eidolon 12m 26 *** *Red Line 8m 27 tackling off-widths, then this is a pretty nice climb. The diagonal crack. What this line lacks in length Start as for Tribute then swing left and follow F.A. Marcel and Hamish Jackson and Steve Bray, it makes up for in aesthetics and difficulty. One of bolts up the face. G Phillips, Feb 03. late nineties. the finest lines around. Some thin finger jamming leads to the roof followed by pumpy layaways M O R N I N G G L O R Y R O C K S (N E A R T H E P R O W , with the crux move reaching the lip (a jug). P 62 )

10 Cape Raoul

Morning Glory Rocks (which get the early rising sun) are situated above The Prow. Access is down the Whitewater Wall track to the point where it leaves the She-oaks but before descending the wide rock gully. At this point go North for 20 meters.

Stiffy 14m 19 Up the center of the first Rock. The thin crack with an overhanging start. Bill Baxter, Willem Van Den Bosch. Sept 03.

Darling, Don't Get Upset, Cuddle Me Instead 8m 16 On the Second Rock, the thin crack a meter to the right of the off-width. Bill Baxter, Dennis Kearnes and Alan Williams. Oct 03.

What A Weapon 7m 20 At the right hand end of the Second Rock is a cosmetic RP crack. Up to this, then jugs at the top. Dennis Kearnes and half of Launceston. Oct, 03.

F R I E N D L Y P O I N T

***A Gut full of Burben 26 18m Starts the same as HFOS but from the over-lap under-cling left and finish up the wall above. Awesome last move! Garry Phillips 04.

***A head Full of Speed 26 15m (This was the bolted project!) From the small cave above the sea, climb the wall above to the over lap and head direct to the lower off. Garry Phillips 04.

11 Mt Brown

Factory is unique in Australian climbing *Seal Launch 20m 22 7B ***The Supposed Golden Path 25m 26/27 8B Cole’s Bay – Hazards in that it has a large number of very high Climb a dogleg groove just right of a distinct arete To the left of the previously mentioned roped quality climbs from 21 to 30 on good formation. Al Williams July 03 access section of the approach along the foot of Cliffs granite that is highly featured with holds the cliff, scramble to the far left end of a high of all shapes and sizes, in addition to the The Final Solution 20m 25 6B ledge and belay below a sandy white scoop.

more usual cracks. Climbs are described The faceted blocky arete to the same belay. Al Climb desperately up left to the yellow arete and from left to right, beginning with three Williams Aug 03 follow the thin crack to a rest and further hard T H E G O N K ( P 72 ) that ascend a highly featured wall not far moves to finish. The “slash grade” is not due to up from the vertical corner on the Sea **Turbo Hammer 20m 25 6B uncertainty – Nick is certain 27 is fair while Garry An access route to the top of this cliff Level Traverse that leads to slabs below The thin leftwards trending crack-line. Garry is certain it’s only 26 – debate on this pivotal issue now exists from the top of the Star the Gonk, although it would not be easy Phillips July 03 is continuing. Nick Hancock, July 03. factory. From the “cave” at the top of the to access The Star Factory by following Star Factory walk south, descending this traverse. All the bolted sport climbs **The Adjuster 36m 21 *** Come get Me 25m 30 gradually as you go. have double bolt belays at the top, from The well-defined right facing corner system Starts up Entre to the 5th bolt, then heads direct, which it is advised to lower off as there is toward the lower end of the tier. Perfect rock. past two bouldery crux sections and veering left ***The Meaning of Life 25m 24/25 8B loose gravel above the top of the cliff. Perfect position. over the final overlap on to the slab. Garry Phillips The awesome flake route right of Where in the (1) 18m 13. Climb the corner to the ledge under September 2005. Stain is Sneden (fully equipped, with DBB). Doug the roof. Marcel and Hamish Jackson, Aug 94. McConnell, Jun 2003. ***Entre 25m 29 The Men’s Gallery is a little separate (2) 18m 21. Up to the roof then follow an airy ***The Holly Grail 40m 26 9B Start 3m right of The Supposed Golden Path. from the main Star Factory crag. To get traverse right until the roof fades into a faint Spectacular, steep and sustained. One of the finest Climb the hanging flakes and the steep wall above. to the Men’s Gallery walk down the ramp depression. Tricky moves to the top. Hamish, routes of this grade and style in Tasmania. (fully Garry Phillips, May 2004. at the far left side of the Star Factory to a Toby Bown and Marcel, Jan 2002. equipped). Start 25m right of The Meaning and rap station. From here climb the short climb the left trending dyke to DBB above pitch 2 wall above via 4 bolts (grade 8) to the ***Tooth Fairy 32 10B Named after the route stole the Kim’s front teeth of Highway to Hell. Nick Hancock, Jun 2003. belay on the ledge. To descend rap off *Project (Redline) while he was bolting it. Hanging Flake. Kim ***The Life of Meaning 35m 25 the rings, but try to avoid letting the ropes Garry April 04. Start as for Holly Grail and climb the thin crack to fall down the crack below! “We did once ledge and BB below big unclimbed corner. Doug and there was some cursing.”, Garry. ****Simply the Best 20m 28 Project (Arete left of FOAL) McConnell & Nick Hancock, Jun 2003. The bolted route to the right of the redline project. “What else can I say!”, Garry Phillips 4/2/06. Garry.

***Wild Winds 27 15m S T A R F A C T O R Y *** Astroboy 20m 30 ***Ferret on a Leash 25m 27 11B Starts 2m right of the belay on the Men’s Gallery At the point where the scramble from the right ledge. Up face and corner system via some Middle of the red streaked wall, climb the short By Nick Hancock. 3m wall to gain the ledge. Stick clip the first two along the foot of the crag needs a rope, climb a unlikely looking moves. A really good resistance beautiful right facing corner to a resting ledge. route. Garry Phillips 20/11/05 bolts, climb directly up the wall on excellent rock This cliff is a 500 meter long, slightly to the horizontal rail, traverse left to the flake then Follow the very thin groove above and swing right overhanging wall, up to 30 meters high, up to mantle the sloping ledge. DBB at the back at its top. Finish slightly left. Nick Hancock June Then, starting at the left end of the main and forms the top left retaining wall of of the ledge. FFA Alan Williams, June 2005. 03. Star Factory cliff … Hazards Main Wall. Access is by following The Skyline Traverse from ***Project (White Streak) 5B *The Glass Tier 25m 22 Sleepy Bay for 35 minutes until a distinct *The Father 25m 22 8B Doug Follow a series of left trending flakes just past a col is reached below the slabs leading up Follow the left hand line of bolts on the highly ridiculously thin crack-line. Most of the rock on to Wombat Crags. From here head left featured wall at the far left hand end of the cliff. *** Star Wars 25m 28 5B this climb looks dubious from the ground, but in and down, below a steep wall, then head Nick Hancock July 03 Big cranks and throws up the recessed wall. Doug fact it is pristine quality except for the first move. south to above the cliff. There is a steep McConnell. The upper section is reasonably sustained. scramble at the far right hand side and *The Son 25m 21 8B Hamish and Marcel Jackson, Jan 2002. abseil anchors above some of the right The central line of bolts with a tricky slab finish. hand climbs. Access along the foot of the Doug McConnell July 03 ***The Grand Adjudicator 25m 27 crag is straightforward except for a 30 Follow the very thin crack that splits into two, then meter section left from Ferret on a Leash, *The Holy Ghost 25m 24 8B reforms and enters a superb hanging groove line. 6 where it is necessary to rope up as the The right hand line of bolts with a reachy crux fixed pegs plus gear to 3 Friend. Nick Hancock slabs below the wall shelve steeply to the high up. Garry Phillips July 03 Dec 2004. sea over 70 meters below. The Star

12 Mt Brown

**Balance of Evil 25m 25 10B *Pot Bellied Whale 25m 25 10B (2) 30m 15 Follow the convoluted depressions up ***Knocked up on cheap champagne 22 50m About 25 meters right climb a thin crack up a big Layback up a detached looking pillar then follow the arete to the top with spaced gear. Great 8m right of Spanner, start at a little roof then slab into a right facing corner. At the top move left the groove up the rounded arete to a hard move climbing for the grade. Hamish and Marcel follow the bolts left and up (16 bolts to rap point). and up to bolts below the top. Norm Selby July left near the top. Nick Hancock June 03 Jackson 2/99 This climb can be done as two pitches but is best 03 done in one. You can rap the climb with one rope ***The Reason 20m 26 6B it is a 20m rap then a 25m rap. N.Selby / *Project (Slab and Roof) Starting from a ledge at 8 meters, reached by a S L E E P Y B A Y – I N S O M N I A W A L L ( P 7 9 ) R.DeCeasare 28/8/04 Kim grade 15 crack just right of PBW, climb the beautiful very open corner line. Doug McConnell At the last gulch on the track to Sleepy *** Top of My To Do List 15m 24 4B **Grand Slam 25m 30 9B July 03. Bay, descend to the very steep north 20m right of Knocked Up climb a lovely pink From the pillar 5m left of Anti Matter head out left facing wall by the sea. seem to a DBB. Doug McConnell 2004. to the small roof, pull over this to gain a good rest. Naturally Blonde 15m 23 Above comes the crux, with a hard dead point to Follows the crack left of Chris the Porn King to **Insomnia 10m 25 5B H A N C O C K S K N O B an edge at the base of the corner, followed the roof, traverse right to pass the roof and follow Left-hand line with a sloper start. Lower off. immediately with a dyno to the jug. Currently the thin layback crack to the top. Well protected Nick Hancock Apr 04. Sicker Than AIDS 15m 26 5B lowers of the 2nd last bolt! (I don’t know if the by small to mid size friends and wires, DBB. FFA The overhanging arête right of As Good as It Gets, holds above will break! - Garry). Garry Phillips Alan Williams, 2004. Project 10m 4B starting on the right. Nick Hancock & Heather (July 03) Doug. Trygstad, Jan 2005. **Chris the Porn King 15m 24 6B ***Power of the Percolator 25m 28 8B The crux involves a rightwards traverse at half *Weffy 10m 22 5B G R A C E L A N D S Awesome sustained climbing, Start from the pillar height but it is still sustained after that. Garry From cairn climb right then up to LO. Doug 5m left of Anti Matter and head out right with Phillips, July 03. Al Williams added an access McConnell Apr 04. * Born Under a Bad Sign 15m 26 4B increasing difficulty. Garry Phillips, July 03. pitch (20) to reach the belay. Climb the arête right of Ju Ju. Nick Hancock I N C H M A N C R A G (climbing) & Roger Parkyn (cheat stone support), **Decaff 27 28m H A Z A R D S M A I N W A L L ( P 7 3 ) (W O M B A T L O W E R , P 82 ) June 2004. Start up Power of the Percolator to the 5th bolt, then undercling right around the bulge passing *Well Hung 50m 18 This cliff can be reached by walking on P I G L E T S (S O W S P U R A R E A ) another bolt and finish for Antimatter. Garry Exciting stuff following a direct continuation of the skyline traverse past the Underworld. Phillips 19/11/05 Stud City's big corner. Start up S.C.'s second 50 m past where you leave the gravel and Two short but worthwhile climbs on a pitch, but instead of going right across the under- start up slabby rock head horizontally small cliff (named “Piglets”) above Sow ***Antimatter 25m 23 8B cling flake, take the cracks straight up through the right below the lowest significant rock- Spur. Traverse east from the very top of With a tricky start trend up left to a hand-ledge roof/overlap and ultimately take the right hand band crossing a white streak of rock up Sow Spur above ‘Stylised’ along to a and pull up right onto the upper wall. Head up left crack (crux) to the top of the slabs. Passing the the cliff (easily visible from Sleepy Bay) little crag on the left, which looks about into a groove then move right on pockets and up to overlap turns out to be relatively easy, but pretty for 500 m to where the cliffs steepen. ten metres high from the base. a roof. Pull over this on the right in a superb exposed. Hamish and Marcel Jackson 2/99. position. A popular warm-up before the hard **Fat Slipper 21 18m This Little Piggy 20m 16 stuff, which probably explains the stiff grade!? Tic-Tac Toe 15m 25 This climb is on the south west side to the right of Left of an easy line in the middle of the cliff. (originally given 24). Doug McConnell June 03 Climbs the overhanging crack between Lubricity a crack/water streak. Climb the slab on what you Climb the wall and thin crack to belay back from and Kids on Skids. Head right to Lubricity once can find past 8 bolts to a rap point. N.Selby, A. the edge above an easy slab hidden from the ***Streetfighter II 20m 30 topped out over lip. Note: This is the 25 by Kim Mason 7/8/2004 bottom. Positive holds and good pro. A neat little Start via Antimatter’s first three bolts then on page 77 of Craglets 6 (no description given). route. Alan Williams, Phil Robinson (1/8/99) diagonal rightwards to join Street-fighter. Jake Kim Robinson 12/8/01. **Spanner 70m 22 (Cream Puff) Bresnehan, Oct 04. The only obvious weakness through the large Pigtail Soup 20m 18 ***Continuum 60m 17 sweeping wall right of Inchman. Up the beautiful Twin cracks a few metres left of “This Little **Street-fighter 20m 29 8B Why wasn't this gem uncovered earlier? Start at obtuse corner (with 2 seams facing each other), Piggy”. Up right-hand crack before moving From a hanging chimney on the right, traverse left the belay atop the first pitch of Stud City. then exit out right (crux) to traverse gingerly awkwardly left to a small sloping ledge next to to a hard move up to a left facing flake line. (1) 30m 17 Follow the diagonal overlap leading across (not up!) the slab to join cracks. Up cracks left-hand crack. Follow this crack to the top. Alan Follow the wall above to bolts below the top. right. Initially a bit run out (crux). When the and face to tree belay. Pitch 2 (12, 15m) as for Williams, Phil Robinson (1/8/99) Garry Phillips June 03. overlap peters out, continue traversing right to Inchman. The first attempt of the following line belay on the arete. (in January 1990) resulted in a serious ground-fall *** Soft Option 29/30 8B from above the first crack system. Despite its Climbs the same start as Street Fighter, branching history, this climb actually has quite adequate right at the top of the chimney. Garry April 04 protection. Marcel and Hamish Jackson, Feb '99.

13 Mt Brown

M T A M O S 3. Cosmic Winch (24) start appears to have changed dramatically with a huge block Flinders Island Launceston Stuff ***I wish She Were Mine 19 17m missing at the bottom on the L. i.e. the off width Around the corner to the right of Dog Style. start now looks necessary. Routes that missed the Northern Chicken Shit Variant 13m 19 Follow the grey dyke past 7 bolts to rap point. N Tasmania guidebook (Gerry Narcowicz, Climb Cowardice to the crack below the roof. Step Selby 12/6/2004. 4. Lost at Sea (21) has a broken hold 2004) left onto the face and crank the spaced face holds high up but can still be done at 21, although a long up and left past one fixed hanger to the #1 cam Project 22/3 17m reach is handy. **Jugs 15m 25 4B crack. De Cesare, Jones Oct/2003. Same start as I Wish she were mine, then go right, Overhanging runnel on south side of past 7 bolts to the same rap point. N Selby 5. Dead Memories is not 21 unless we D’Minoresque pinnacle. Nick Hancock 31/1/04. New cliff just past Right man buttress on missed something. Maybe a foothold has gone the way to Fat man buttress. **Dive Time 10m 24 (Always a good excuse). A strong L finger pinch The very thin right-trending crack right of Alcove Coningham and the high step renders the crux 22(+)? Other Cracks. Nick Hancock, Doug McConnell 6/2/04. **Bohnanza 21 10m opinions welcome. Left leaning line/crack with 5 bolts to rap point. Info from Phil Robinson *Armless 10m 23 3B Stick clip the first bolt. N Selby 9/8/2003. 6. To the right again, the popular The right trending line left of Undertow. Doug Immediately L. of No Oxygen Needed is Floating Riot (21) is just that, 21 and a good McConnell, Nick Hancock 7/2/04. M A N S I O N O N T H E H I L L black graffiti on the wall, which says. climb. Overtow 10m 25 “Duran Duran Rules, Okay!” The Go direct through the roof from Undertow. Nick Barbeque Boy 10m 22 following three top roped climbs are L of Hancock, Doug McConnell 7/2/04. The bolted face L of Night Train (the arete with this and worth a look, all traditional carrot bolts by Danny Ng). Gymnastic face moves Coningham (i.e. nice and small). Red Snapper 7m 22 The flaring crack and wall just right of A Flay at past 4 bolts to join the same anchors as Night the Beach. Nick Hancock 1/2/04. Train. Gerry Narkowicz 7/12/04. Duran Duran 8m 15 4m L of No Oxygen Needed is a thin finger crack. P I L L I N G E R S P E A K Climb this for 4m. Do not continue up the unpleasant wide crack but step left and follow the ** Blow Job 10m 22 clean arête. P.R/S.S. (May 2005) Follow the path up around the east side of the peak, and shortly after the track cuts back south Rules 8m 15 above the first cliffs, a perfect right-facing hand The seam 1.5m L of Duran Duran. S.S./P.R. (May crack will be seen facing north. Nick Hancock & 2005) Heather Trygstad, Jan 2005.

Okay 8m 15 * Tuna Army 10m 19 The face 1.5m L of Rules. Beware, the good holds Just before the path goes up a fixed rope, climb the run out at the top. S.S./P.R. (May 2005) right arête of the north face of a lovely pinnacle. Nick Hancock Jan 2005. (Unnamed) 16/17 The face 1.5m R of S and M, a bit contrived as one * Tribal Wave 10m 18 can escape L or R, but worth doing. Go L of the Just after the fixed rope, climb a blank open left- small cave at the top. (May 2005). facing groove. Step up right then easier to the top. Nick Hancock Jan 2005. Notes on older climbs( P.R. 18/5/05):

1. No Oxygen Needed (14) The bottom has eroded giving a desperate start. Traverse delicately in from the right for a 14.

2. ‘Oysters Au Naturale’ (15) –Oct.1991 and S and M (17)-Nov.1981 are obviously the same crack. Grade ~16/17.

14 Mt Brown

Boulder up to the overhang and surmount it ***Show Time 25m 26 H O L Y S M O K E S W A L L Mount Brown boldly. Move up to twin horizontal breaks then Climb Aquaphobia to the start of the traverse, then make tricky moves up, then left to attain a head direct. Sustained. Garry Phillips, Feb 04. Around the other side of the big cave, as if Info from Ben Raymond (13/2/04). Descriptions standing position on small holds on the blunt arête. accessing the multi pitch 40 Degrees South there in blue font are from Craglets 6 and are added as The top is just out of reach and gaining it provides ***Deep Blue 20m 25 is a very steep over hanging wall. There are two an aide. a tricky crux. Finish slightly left. Mike Raine, Ben The line of bolts to the right of Aquaphobia. routes on it. Raymond, 9/2/04 (This is the most likely one to Features a hard start and a tricky finish. Cam have already been done) Veal, Feb 04. **Holy Smokes 20m 26 Follow the very steep over hanging corner to the P A R R O T S H E L F C L I F F S ( P 2 07 ) Kelpie 14m 16 H A D E S lip, then heel hook and mantle on to the slab and To the right of True Grit is a corner with a slightly up to chains, exposed! Garry Phillips December ** The Gift 12m 20 imposing finger/ hand crack for its second half. 40 Degrees South 70m 25 (22A0) 05. Arête left of Octopussy. Ben Raymond, Mike Climb this (it is a little loose at the top). An out-there location! This climb weaves through Raine 9/2/04 H.Jackson, M.Jackson, A.Vincent, Dec 94. the awesome ground above the cave of Hades (the Project huge cave/arch you can look into from the right Right of Holy Smokes. Ø Ø Octopussy 12m 14 P A R A D I S O ( P 20 9) end of the Paradiso cliffs. Can be done as 22 with The prominent thin chimney between Black some bolt pulling. This next one isn’t at Holy Smokes Wall, Cockatoo and Polly. Better than it looks! *Sponge Bob 12m 22 I think(?) RP. R.Eberhard, S.Edwards, Aug/95. Start in the wide crack right of High Noon (or 1) 15m 20 Ascend the interesting face to the belay climb directly up the face) step left onto the face, on top of the pillar. **High & Dry 500m 20 DWS * Do Worms Eat Finger Tape? 14m 18 interesting climbing past U bolts to DBB. E. Climb the gently overhanging scoop just right of Traverse right from Hades (p211, end) to Bradley, A. Williams, J Spong, 2004. 2) 35m 23 Continue up to the over lap and once Meadowbank (p213). Beaut climbing at the start Octopussy then finish up easier crack above. over this traverse left and up to belay on large Mike Raine, Ben Raymond 9/2/04 with some serious sections at the right end of the ***Retrograde Amnesia 35m 13B 26 ledge. Furnace. Nick Hancock Feb 03. Start 5m right of Expendable Youth. Climb the * No Stove, No Key, No Telli! 14m 20 juggy rock to a rest, then climb on the right. 3) 15m 25 (sting in the tail pitch!) Climb the Climb the narrow face just left of Polly. Ben Trend left under a diagonal roof to a groove. Thin fantastic over hanging wall above to exit to the Sutton, Hat’ Grey, 9/2/04 moves up this to finish. Clip bolts 5-8 on a second right of the roof. rope or use long draws. Nick Hancock & Ben Polly 14m 8 Ridder, Apr 04. Equipped: Garry Phillips 12/05. F.A. Garry To the right of Octopussy is a narrow corner Phillips and Alan Williams (alt) 27/12/05. facing right. Climb up the crack and continue to ***Too Tall Oxen 30m 11B 22 the top with excellent pro. P.Jackson, A.Vincent, Start just right of Chasing the Dragon, just before Gear Required: Double Ropes, 15 quick draws, Nov 94. a water funnel. Climb the overhanging wall to helmets and a #05friend for pitch 2 if you want. DBB. A good warm-up for the harder climbs. Ø True Grit 14m 17 Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges, Dec 03. Access: Walk to the top of the Paradiso and then About 5m right of Polly there is a rough, left head up hill and over the top on a small cairned facing flake up a face. Climb up to the flake Random People 15m 24/25 [mixed] track. From here you can either walk around the (crux), step right into its curving continuation, Located in the middle of the crag between the back or rap from the anchors to the base of the then finish direct. B.McMahon, S.Hamilton, Nov main wall and Aquaphobia. FHs through rooflet route. GPS coordinates for the rap station are (see 94. down low (crux) then easily up featured face below). above to double ring lower-off past another 3 FHs * Dog Barf Road 14m 19 and a #3 cam slot. The crux is quite out of REF# 55 G UTM Description Climb the scoop just right of True Grit, finishing keeping with the rest of the route. Neil Monteith MB001 0569994 5216028 Slab where you as for True Grit. Ben Raymond, Mike Raine 3.1.2006 (one rest due to slimy rock). I’m not sure turn off to go to anchors. 9/2/04 if order cf. other routes is correct (?), Roger. MB002 0569966 5215989 Rap anchors for *** Brimful of Asher 14m 21 **Team Caffeine 20m 21 the multi pitch. Between Dog Barf Road and Kelpie is a fine face The line of bolts to the left of Aquaphobia. Garry guarded by an overhang at 5 meters. Start below Phillips, Feb 04. the center of the overhang beneath a large undercut hold.

15 Mt Brown

Tims Route 16 7m A Sister called Jamaica 17 8m Human Beans 16 17m Crescent Bay The left facing corner at sealevel which may or The arete at the left end of this small wall. Gear At the next ledge right of Excuse me while I kiss may not be splashed by the wet stuff. Tim Whelan and holds found to the right of the arete. Dave this guy a RFC leads to easier ground. Climb the P L A Y S T A T I O N Marcus Yong and Dave James Jan 2002 James and Tim Whelan Jan 2002 twin cracks and corner then continue to small RFC and layback to top. Doug Grubert and Ian Riley Don’t Blink or you’ll miss it! The Lets get horizontal 16 10m Tims route 15 7m July 2002. Playstation is situated about ten minutes A fun traverse of the horizontal beginning higher Left of Bob the kelp kelpie two cracks lead to a walk along the boulder beach and shore on the slabs and finishing at the left end of the rounded flake/jug climb the left crack then the Sentient Beans 16 10m slabs from the south western end of Playstation wall. Tim Whelan Marcus Yong and right at the flake Jan 2002 Right of Human Beans scramble to higher ledges Crescent Beach. Whilst it will never be a Dave James Jan 2002 then climb cracks to top blunt arete. Doug Grubert world class climbing destination The Bob the kelp kelpie 14 7m and Ian Riley July 2002 . Playstation makes for a pleasant V E I L C L I F F If you wont get wet feet step off the kelp onto the alternative if the swell is up or there is a wall then mantleshelf. Dave James and Tim S T A N D U P P O I N T – S T U F F F R O M D A V E cold southerly at the other Mt Brown Beyond the last point visible from Whelan Jan 2002 cliffs. Descent is simplest by down Crescent beach lies a concealed treasure. Standup point is the rocky point south climbing at the southern end of the On the near/north portion of the cliff a On the southern side of the Veil Cliff and east of Crescent Bay. Routes “cliff”. walk-on ledge breaks the cliff - below are another cliff extends out of view. Walk described left to right (as approached the following small climbs. Abseil to the around the top of the Veil Cliff, scramble from Crescent Bay). Free-range is a Perhaps the most distinctive feature is a platform which may or may not be wave onto the wide platform and abseil to the fairly distinctive face. very neat and clean left facing corner washed. series of slabs and ledges. Climbs some 4 metres tall to the left of this is described left to right. Fuzzy Logic 12 6m some bouldering at a range of grades. Walking up hill one reaches a promontory 10 m left and around the corner from Free Range. The following climbs are described left to looking over the main cliffs. Chicken Shute 16 15m The short hand-crack. Dave James and Ben Rhee right from the corner. Several metres left of southern fury follow the June 2002. Dave, I re-ordered the next six climbs to be L to R. crack and slab to a short flaring off-width. Think Nintendo 14 5m Please check it is correct. Also: please check that better of it and step right onto the ledge and finish Free-range 14 10m The short wide chimney and right facing corner. the individual crags themselves are L to R. Roger up the left facing corner/slot. Dave James Mark Climb the chicken heads to the ledge then step Dave James and Christian Wehba May 2001. Allen, July 2002 right to the short hand crack and top Tim Whelan Shegold 15 30m and Dave James Feb 2002. Souper Mario 15 5m Pretty sweet. The left leading line largely visible Southern Fury 15 15m The crack system and over hanging block between from the promontory. Abseil down Stonespell to Bridge and lay back the right facing corner then Udopian 14 10m Nintendo and Dreamcast. Dave James and the ledge at sea level (or just above spike) . hand jam the superb crack to the top. Dave James Just a few metres right of Free Range. Jam and Christian Wehba May 2001. Mark Allen July 2002. stem the open book corner and hand-crack, Dave 1)30m A couple of metres above the spike, the jug James and Ben Rhee June 2002. Dreamcast 15 6m trail begins follow it left then/and up following the Northern brewery 16 15m The left facing corner and hand crack immediately line to the small LF corner and on left wards to a 2m right of southern fury a short crack leads to the Parachute Girl 14 15m left of Gameboy. Dave James and Christian grassy ledge and the top. Dave James and Matt left end of a ledge. Climb featured cracks and Start at the featured off-width 5m left of the square Wehba May 2001. Jones. June 2002 wall, traverse right below orange slab/groove to cave. Climb the off-width to the ledge then the arete and top, Dave James and Mark Allen July continue up the hand-crack and left facing corner. Gameboy 18 7m Stonespell 15 25m 2002. Dave James and Tim Whelan, Feb 2002. Beautiful climbing up the arete to the right. Dave The open book corner as made by the promontory. James and Christian Wehba (TR) May 2001. Abseil down the route to the small sea level ledge. Excuse me while I kiss this guy 16 15m The following climbs are perhaps 15-20m At a large short right facing corner flakes and further north/towards port Arthur. Wet Wehbas Staircase 12 8m 1)25m bridge directly up the corner. Dave James delicate bridging lead to a ledge on the right and a 3m right of Gameboy a short right tending crack Ben Rhee and Tim Whelan, June 2002. further right facing corner and fist crack . An Axis of weevil 15 12m leads to the large and easy corner. Dave James easier start would be to step a couple of metres and Christian Wehba May 2001 2m left of Enemy of the Steak climb to a grass It is straightforward in reasonable swell right mantle then step back left. Ian Riley and tussock and continue up the clean corner to the conditions to traverse left round to Dave James July 2002. left. Dave James and Tim Whelan Feb 2002. From the left end of the playstation wall another ledge and the following climbs. another clifflet rises from sea level with Enemy of the Steak 14 10m an obvious horizontal break “Lets get Tims crack 15 7m The open featured corner left of Smart Bong. horizontal” . The thin hand crack immediately left of ASCJ Tim Dave James and Tim Whelan Feb 2002. Whelan Dave James 26/01/02

16 Mt Brown

Smart Bong 15 10m Two flakes about 1m apart on the middle wall layback and bridge. Tim Whelan and Dave James Feb 2002.

Suicide Plumber 14 15m Climb features to the large ledge then bridge up the impending corner. Tim Whelan and Dave James Feb 2002.

S T A N D U P P O I N T – S T U F F F R O M N I C K

About 5 minutes from the north end of Crescent Bay, and facing Cape Pillar.

Nick, Where do these routes fit into Dave’s stuff? He says Standup Pt is on the SE end of Crescent Bay (not north!)??

**Hippy Chicks In The Styx 10m 22 DWS The face/blunt arête. Nick Hancock Apr 03.

*Blow Me Zoe 15m 22 DWS The blunt arête to the right of Hippy Chicks. Mike Robertson Apr 03.

17

*Ignition Sequence Start 8m 24 The boulder field south of the top Ice +2) 10m 20. Ascend via the corner and buttress Mount Wellington Start 3m right of Fear Factory, follow the bolts House under South Wellington is a (note that the second U on this pitch is not visible with a hard pull at half height. Cam Veal, Feb 04. hidden corner of the mountain, well worth from below). Edited by Roger Parkyn a look for its assorted, albeit small, Roger Parkyn, Oct/94. *Calm before the Storm 15m 28 towering blocks and columns. Looking up This is a collection of routes done since the 1992 Starts 2m right of ISS. Scramble up the slab and to South Wellington from the heart of the Ø guide book. Some of these are routes of the finest Ø The Light 35m 23 crank through the bulge and right to lower from boulder field is rather like looking at the quality (and I am quite definitely not biased!) so Completes the trinity. Start on the face between the chains of Rambo. Garry Phillips 9/04 crumbling walls of an ancient castle. To you won’t be wanting to wait 10 years for the next The Way and The Good etc. Technical climbing the east are spectacular views of the Pipes guide. past three Us leads to a crack (about grade 18 to ***Space Invader 12m 30 Derwent Estuary and to the north an finish). Roger Parkyn, Mar/95. Starts as for Rambo but heads direct. Garry unusual view of the mountain. The bulk of the new info here since C6 has come Phillips 9/04. Unfortunately the dolerite is unstable and Ø from Phil Robinson. Ø Blind Faith 35m 21 the only real attraction for decent Start 20m right and up from The Good the **Spaced Out 15m 31 climbing may be some bouldering on the Excellent ... (p 113/114) below a nose of rock. Links Space Invader in to Storm Trooper, a very western side of South Wellington Climb the steep wall (crux) to an easier crack. sustained piece of climbing. Jake Bresnehan, Dec approached from the very top of the Finish up the hand-crack on the left side of the S P H I N X R O C K 05. IceHouse track. nose. Abseil off a bollard (you may want to take Get A Grip 12m 21 your own sling). Sam Edwards, Feb/95. **Rambo 15m 25 3 bolts with lower-off. Norm Selby, 2000. Starts the same as LMFM. But from the corner cut F R U S T R A T I O N B U T T R E S S Broken Buttress culminates in a back left and finish through the steep roof. Garry gendarmed ridge and has a spur running Ghandi 12m 20 Phillips 7/04 2 bolts with lower-off. Norm Selby, 2000. Ø Dominator 12m 20 southeast. The next three routes are The Slab above Frustration Buttress, visible from found close together if you access the top **Lean Mean Fighting Machine 15m 28 the Springs (p119). Well worth the walk over. Short Sharp and Shit Hot 8m 24 Starts 10m right of FF. Crank through the bulging of Fools Couloir from the pinnacle Nice face climbing up the thin line in the middle 40m left of Phoenix ( p140). Climb the very steep wall to a rest in the corner. Traverse right along carpark (a full descent of Fools Couloir of slab. Kim Robinson, A.Williams, P.Robinson, wall pasts two bolts to a rap station. Garry the break and then up via a desperate boulder requires an abseil to reach the bottom). C.Godfrey 7/12/97. Phillips, Apr/96. problem finish. G Phillips, Feb 04. *Rick the Redneck 25m 18 B R O K E N B U T T R E S S Mr Wiggles 8m 25 S O U T H W E L L I N G T O N On the R.H. side of the gully are a group of The prow right of ‘Short, Sharp and Shit Hot’. gendarmes and this climb is on the uppermost one. Finish as for SSSH. Kim Robinson, 1997. ØØ Seamstress 25m 25 ie above Ice House Track The N. E. face is split by a fist crack which is Lovely climbing on the high orange wall (left of climbed for 4m to a bulge on the right wall. Step * Walk like an Egyptian 12m 22 Assault Course, p 116). The crux is near the top. right below the bulge and climb the more Start as for Phoenix. After the first bolt in the roof Iceman 15m 8 Mostly on eyes but also requires some natural gear appealing line 1m to the right. Follow the line to head right along the flake system past two bolts to From the top Ice House (400metres above the (#0 and #2.5 friend). Sam Edwards, Nov/95. the top finishing left. Pete Steane, A. Adams, Nov the lip, continue up the headwall above to a DBB. Springs) a boulder field stretches south to an 1992. Alan Williams, Oct 2004 attractive little isolated peak just below South Ø The Truth 20m 22 Wellington. An obvious line runs up through the Line two metres left of The Way. Natural gear Brand New Lies 15m 12 Ø Fear Factory 10m 23 blocks in the middle of it. Phil Robinson, Mar/02. then U’s. Un-obvious, bizarre and interesting. Found on the next gendarme downhill from Rick Two metres right of Mindbeast (Sphinx Rock, Roger Parkyn, Nov/94. the Redneck. Step off the boulder and climb the p140). Up, along lip and up to rap station. Four Choc Ice 40m 17 hand crack on the N. W. face. Follow the crack to bolts. Sam Edwards, 1997. Traverse the boulder field south of the IceHouse ØØ The Way 35m 23 the top. Rap off via the chockstone. Pete Steane, for about 100 metres until an impressive lone 1) 20m 23. Excellent face climbing up a slightly A. Adams, Nov 1992. First Blood 20m 26 buttress of orange rock comes into view to the overhanging wall (about 10m left of The Climb Fear Factory (see above) then drop down southwest (beyond Iceman). To the top right of it Good...etc (p 114). The difficulty (but not *Tired Cliches 20m 18 and continue traversing along lip past another five is a spectacular cairn-like tower of blocks. The necessarily the pump) decreases with height. Can This is on the S. W. face of Brand New Lies U’s to a rap station. Sam Edwards, 1997. climb, which is loose and needs cleaning, takes the also be done by traversing right after the first U gendarme. Layback up the flake to the rest, corner and crack line up the middle of the buttress. and climbing a crack-line to the right (clipping the traverse left and up the line around the arete to the *The Pie Man 8m 22 Rather strenuous higher up. Start by climbing up Us by reaching left) then re-joining the route top. A. Adams, Pete Steane, Nov 1992. Climb Fear Factory to the 3rd bolt, then head some large blocks to reach the crack. Phil between the third and fourth Us. It’s a pleasant direct. G Phillips, Feb 04. Robinson, Mar/02. enough variation, and one or two grades easier, but avoids the meatiest part of The Way.

18

A V A L A N C H E C O U L O I R Ø Falstaff 25m 19 B U L G I N G B U T T R E S S ** Cornered 20m 23 Note: Grade 19 with one belayer assisted move. Start approx 5 meters left of Wootang. Climb the Carpe Diem About 20m up from Cecilia is a large pinnacle ØØØ Mildly Amused 35m 25 thin crack line just right of the arête, well (25m), Falstaff, that overhangs the gully. The Start up the crack as for Beaten and Abused protected by small to mid sized cams, then the jump to and from its summit is highly (p105). At the horizontal break (i.e. where Beaten shallow corner above past three fixed hangers to a Piping Hot recommendable and is a good descent option and Abused goes right, at about six metres) go DBB at the ledge. FFA Alan Williams, early following the climb. Starts at the ledge 1/4 of the slightly leftwards and up (tricky) into the crack 2005. way up the pinnacle, on the right side (accessed by above until the first U can be clipped. Undercling Flying Dutchman scrambling in from the L, 40m up the Couloir around the flake (crux) then continue up the face ***Wootang 45m 25 from Cecilia). Another hard route from this ledge and arete above. Good natural pro is available in A dedication to Lois Scarr. Starts on the right awaits a first ascent. the crack (wires and cams) then nine fixed anchors hand side of the wide face above the ledge. Ø Terra Nullis 30m 21 (1) 22.1m 19. Climb a short finger crack in the lead to a rap station. This route tends to remain dry Layaways on the face for the first 10m (crux) lead Pleasant arete and face climbingup from Flying right facing corner until a horizontal break at 8m even when the others on this wall are seeping. to a small ledge, continue up the face above to a Dutchman (p109/110). There is a crux near the leads out left to the front of the pinnacle. Climb Roger Parkyn, Feb/99. bolted belay on the ledge at 45m. No natural gear middle. Nine fixed anchors. Roger Parkyn, Feb/94. the front face (crux) to a ledge 2.5 m from top. An required. FA. Alan Williams, Oct 2002. awesome, photogenic position. Cold Power 30m 21 Reindeer On the south facing wall of the buttress right of ***The Colour of Magic 24m 26. (2) 2.9m The summit of the pinnacle can be The Wizard (p103). A scarey start with a pumpy The slightly overhanging arete above the extreme reached from here by standing on the shoulders of finish. It would be advisable to have your belayer right of the ledge. Climb the initial layaway crack Pile Driver the belayer (it would be easy to traverse around to stay down in the gully below as this would avoid (0.5 - 3 camalot) then undercling out right to the the back and up a chimney, but the acrobatic the 4m horizontal from the belay. Pete Steane, first bolt, continue up the arete to double bolt manouvre is worthdoing just for the laugh). Doug Fife Mar/96. belay. FA. Alan Williams, Nov 2002. Non Gradus Anus Rodentum 25m 16 H.Jackson, M.Jackson, Jan/00. Continuing in the tradition of erudite nomenclature ØØØ Heat Pump 50m 22 S T E P T I E R in the Couloir… Takes the obvious corner line Half way up Avalanche Couloir, the gully No trad gear required. just R of Pile Driver. A hand crack, an overhang, a forks, with the RIGHT fork being the 1) 25m 18. Start about 10m left of the start of the ØØ Sucked In 23/24 steep corner, with the odd tree, some lichen and a usual access gully. These climbs are in a scramble up to Black Magic etc. A direct finish to ‘Left Out’ on Step Tier (p92 and clod or two of grass thrown in. Classic. T. p96). Instead of going left onto the arete at the particularly obscure location, near the top 2) 25m 22. Steep climbing between the arête and McKenny, P. Robinson March 2005. of the LEFT gully, on the only large E higher horizontal break, continue straight up. the prominent black streak. facing buttress there. This buttress is K.Robinson, Campbell Godfrey Jan/01. Hot in the Sun easily seen from the top of Falstaff R.Parkyn, N.Hancock, 2002. Pinnacle with Sphygmus being Mothers on Adrenaline 25m 20 particularly obvious. Either scramble up Ø Warm Glow 25m 21 Follows cracks just left of the prow on the buttress Protein Pill from the bottom or down around from the This route is parallel to the second pitch of Heat below Moonraker. D.Fife, 1996. top. It is a bit of a scramble getting there, Pump and starts from the same belay. No trad but both climbs are worth a visit if you gear required. R Parkyn, Doug McConnell, 2003. One Way to the Moon 40m 19 Kwang Hwa Lantern 20m 27 like the area. 1) Start 5m right of Moonraker and 4m left of The face/arete on the left, at the top of avalanche T E A R D R O P G U L L Y Xenophanese. Climb the crack to the Moonraker couloir (p100). Start on the sloping ledge, at the 'hole' then traverse right onto the face and climb Clench your fist and think of England 18m 20 base of the crack to the right, step left to climb the the black water streaked face with the thin cracks The thin crack that goes up the middle-left of The next two routes start from a wide face then continue up arete. Six fixed hangers and above, gear is OK but well spaced, belay as for buttress, with an unusual crux move to gain the vegetated ledge 50m up the right-hand a #2 Camalot to double rings. Alan Williams, Moonraker. finger crack proper. The face section is quite side of teardrop gully. Access either by Apr/00. sustained for its length. Finish up the easy crack scrambling up the right-hand side of the 2) Either rap off, or continue as for Moonraker. gully (easy, but worth roping up) or by system. Hamish & Marcel Jackson, Jan/00. A.Wilson, J.Otlowski, Dec/01. Ø Torre 8m 25 abseiling off the back of step tier (approx The south side of the free standing pinnacle at the 35m), a 50m abseil from the bolts on the top of Avalanche Couloir (p100). 2 BR with some Sphygmus 18m 18 Sunday Morning Fever! 25m 17 The curving layback flake on the RHS of the ledge gets you back to the ground. natural gear. Kim Robinson, Apr/00 Up the face to the right of the Peacepipe corner, buttress. Face moves lead to thin finger crack and climb the cracks and flakes to the top staying on then to steep layback. Finish pretty much as for the the middle of the face. Belay to the left on the step previous climb. Marcel & Hamish Jackson, off the tree, rap here too. Alex Wilson, Justin Jan/00. Otlowiski, Alan Williams. Dec/01.

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The following four climbs are on the G R E A T T I E R Gladiator 35 21 M1 The following climbs are near the top of steep wall at the top of the cliffs between (see old guide) the cliffs on two buttresses just north of Explorer and Melancholy Mania Ø Masacre Madness 40m 21 the Arena, reached by abseiling 50 meters (between Step Tier and Great Tier, p89). Climb to the crux of Suicide Sadness (p87) (the bit Catacomb 30m 17 from the large ledge immediately north of just after the blocks, at about 15 m). Instead of Chimney/crack line left of Centurion (p80). Climb Obelix. This ledge is also where ØØ Static Journey 50m 19 mantling up right to the ledge as you would for the open corner and continue into the tight Legionary and Caledonian finish. Rap Abseil 50m down from a ledge just north of the Suicide Sadness, step left and climb the face to the chimney. Exit out left onto the wall when the 25m. down over small cliffs and then top of Teardrop Wall (north of Sheeza). The line is Janzoon ledge. Protection is a little problematic chimney becomes a squeeze and follow the steep down to one side of a steep 25m. buttress. 2-3m right of Explorer. Shady, but a pleasant route but, according to Pete, is adequate. P.Steane, crack to the top. Tony McKenny, Dave Gardner, Leave a fixed line and watch out for the in summer. Climb the corner on the right for 8 D.Fife, May/96. May 01 large loose block near the top. Telopea metres to a ledge (where Zoloft starts). Up the and The Spirit are on this buttress. Ø crack on the left (also used by Zoloft) for 14metres Ø Terror Firmer 20m 25 Centurian 30m 18 Cheers to Dave is the fantastic narrow to a large sloping ledge. Move left around the The roof near the top of Suicide Sadness (p87). On (see old guide) arête on the buttress to the left. i.e. a few corner (Zoloft goes straight up here) and follow the the 2nd pitch of Suicide Sadness (as described in meters to the south. All three routes start thin line up the face to the top. Phil Robinson, the 1992 Pipes’ Guide) do not traverse left but The Spear 30m 21 from the foot of the north buttress. Kim Robinson, Apr/00. climb up to the roof and under-cling out right (see old guide) underneath it. Climb seam above to the abseil ØØØCheers to Dave 30m 21 Choc-o-Block 25m 17 bolts at the top of Suicide Sadness. Kim & Phil Obelix 40m 18 Wild. A great position on a narrow arête, a few The corner, 2nd line right (north) of the Spear Abseil 25m down to the top ledge on Static Robinson, Apr/00. metres south of Telopea. From the foot of (p79/80). Abseil in. Climb the chimney and Journey/Zoloft. The wide crack system just right Telopea, climb easily to the thin buttress on the Ø overhang. Follow the corner all the way to the of Static Journey. Climb to the top of the crack Direct version of Slow Combustion (p84) 16 left. The climb follows the nose all the way, top. Phil Robinson, Tony McKenny (1/4/01). and move left to the off width with chockstones. Not really a new route, but a really good way of finishing on an airy perch. A tribute to Dave Phil Robinson, Kim Robinson, Dec/00. making the whole route a moderate face climb! Gardner who died in an avalanche on Mt. Tasman. ØØ Legionary 35m 17 Instead of starting in the cracks, climb the face to Kim Robinson, Phil Robinson 3/1/04 The corner line right of 'Obelix' and left of ØØ Zoloft 45m 19 the right straight up to the roof and through it on its left side (crux) to join the original route on the 'Caledonian'. A good route. Climb the line for Varied climbing on the face and cracks left of the ØØTelopea 25m 20 five metres before moving left of the corner up the upper pitches of Melancholy Mania (p88). Access face above. Hamish & Marcel Jackson, 1998. Classic. Straight up the front of the buttress short clean crack behind a large flake. When it is easiest by abseil (40m) to a ledge at the base of through two bulges with a steep headwall finish. runs out, move right into the corner for a few line. Climb the finger crack/face off the left of the T H E A R E N A Phil Robinson, Kim Robinson 3/1/04 initial ledge. Up to large sloping ledge below the metres before climbing the hand crack on the left Ø wall to the overhang. Traverse out of the corner roof/overlap. Climb the blocky crack on the left of Menhir 40m 20 ØThe Spirit 30m 19 the hanging nose/arete until one can move right The wide crack system to the right of the large left into the steep, exposed line above. Climb up to Start 5m. below and just right of Telopea. The into the crack on the nose. Up through the steep pillar on the south side of the Arena (p79/80). the large platform and finish up the short wall as nose of the buttress, followed by the wall on the section following handcracks up the middle right Climb the chimney and the off-width crux (Sounds for 'Caledonian'. Phil. Robinson, Bruce Terry right. Follow the nose until one can move right up of the hanging face. The top section has excellent great doesn’t it!). Nice climbing follows to the top. (28/3/02) the wall via exciting layback moves onto a ledge. exposure. Hamish & Marcel Jackson, Jan/99. Phil Robinson, Alex Wilson (April 2002) Climb the wall and crack system just right of the Ø Caledonian 45m 19 nose to the top. Phil Robinson, Kim Robinson Ø On the north side of the Arena are two obvious ØØ Dynamic Journey 25m 20 Asterix 27m 15 3/1/04 Abseil 25m.to the ledge on Zoloft/Static Journey. On the south side of the Arena amphitheatre, lines right of Obelix. The 2nd line has a short facing north (p79/80). Viewed from the top of crack leading to a large grassy ledge followed by a From the right hand side of the ledge and right of The next climb (The Steps) is the best the hanging arete/nose, climb the steep wall (crux) Centurion it is the 2nd crackline from the left. curving arete. Abseil in. Two alternatives: Right of Menhir and left of Gladiator (which faces way out after finishing the above- to the overhang (approx. one metre left of (a) Grade16 The crack to the ledge. Climb the mentioned climbs. Melancholy Mania). Follow the handcrack up the east). Abseil off a large bollard to the sassafras left trending arete keeping just right of it. Above bush down below. Follow the pleasant crack to the the arete are two short walls. Phil Robinson, Tony right of the hanging headwall past a flake. Up the The Steps 25m 12 top. Phil Robinson, Bruce Terry (16/3/01). McKenny, John McKenny 17/2/02. nice wall on the right to the top. Good value. Phil Starting from the top of the Telopea buttress & Kim Robinson , Dec/00. The Den 35m Grade16 (b) Grade19* From the ledge, keep right follow walls and the ridge to an exposed step The line right of Asterix on the south side of the of the arete for a few metres, then traverse left of across which leads to the abseil ledge next to Arena. There is a myrtle tree and sloping the arete to climb a steep, exposed finger crack. Obelix. Again, watch out for the loose block on pineapple grass ledge two thirds of the way up. Phil Robinson, Bruce Terry (17/3/02). the right just below the top. Dislodgment would Follow the cracks all the way with a crux near the probably send it right across the Organ Pipes top. Watch out for loose rock. P.Robinson, walking track 120 meters below. Phil and Kim B.Terry (17/3/02) Robinson 3/1/04.

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C E N T R A L B U T T R E S S 3) 12m Up awkward blocks to the top. Phil ** Serendipity 40m 19 ØØ Slipper 30m 20 Robinson, Alan Beech (22/05/04) The Columns p.60 (1992 Guide) [I’m not sure Start as for Slippery Sensation (p64). Up this for Youth With a Mission (Direct Start) 20 *Rooster 45m 12 what climbs are beside it or route order? RP]. A 7m (the righthand crack). At this point, instead of The nice crack/face 2m right of Spartan Ethics A good chimney climb? It might be an oxymoron clean corner line halfway up the cliffs amidst some traversing left into the Slippery Sensation crack, (p72). Step right to the flake near the top. Pete but this one ain’t half bad! Takes the chimney line now bushy 1960’s horror shows. Non-strenuous, go straight up the wall. Near the top, traverse Steane, Mar/96. to the L of the Kactus Buttress, marked by a dark well protected and surprisingly worthwhile. toward the bush on the left. Kim & Phil Robinson, roof a few metres up. Start under the roof, after Access, either: a) Scramble, climb and scrub bash Jan/98. * High Flyers 40m 18 scrambling up into a cave. Climb up through up to the base of Piccolo Wall, L of Firebird. Starts high up on the Central Buttress. To access several bulges to the notch. Step L and continue Climb the wall (15m) to the base of twin corner Ø Ring of Fire 15m 21 either: a) Climb 30m up pitch1 (18) of Butt up the groove and arête past the small hakea. cracks. Or, preferably, (b) Abseil in (60m). Locate Balancy test piece roughly following the arete (on Funkey, move R to pitch2 (40m.19) of Acid Test Tape abseil (48m). P. Robinson, B. Rathbone, Jan the top of Cairn Column and follow the top of the its left face) between Just a Little Bit Longer and and finish with High Flyers to give four good 1981. Alt Finish: T. McKenny, C. Walch, March cliffs S for about 30m to the end of the Columns. Slippery Sensation. A bomber #3 RP (in a groove pitches (110m). or b) Abseil in from the rap station 2005. Scramble a few meters down and L to a substantial on the arete) protect the crux in an otherwise at the top of Acid Test. These anchors are very ledge. Leave a fixed line on the top 20m. runout climb. Continue up Just a Little Bit Longer difficult to find from the top of the Pipes. ** Kactus 40m 20 Descend to two bolts (fixed hangers) on the wall at after the spike on the arete is reached. Marcel & The face of the buttress R of Rooster. With the a ledge. Use the bolts to descend the remaining Hamish Jackson, Mar/98. 1) 32m. 16 Follow the line directly above two direct start it is a great pitch, steep, committing but 40m. abseil bolts at the top of pitch2 of Acid Test. with adequate protection. Start at the very base of *Alex’s Thing 20m 24 Pleasant climbing with an excellent, steep hand the buttress, 3m R of a detached pillar. Climb the The climb follows the corner with a thin crack on Climb the first pitch of Precarious or start up Chop crack at the top. thin crack then move L 2m at the obvious traverse the L to the ledge 20m from the top of the Pipes. Sticks to gain the ledge. Climb from the right of line. Climb the face above direct ( keeping to the Approximately one third of the way up, where the the ledge then trend left and up past fixed hangers. 2) 8m. 18 The L.H.S. of the headwall following R of the fused corners) to a ledge. Continue with crack thins, either (a) Go straight up or (b) A bold Bolted by Alex Wilson, FFA A. Williams, E. thin cracks. Abseil off two U’s as for Acid Test. difficulty past a small flake on the left directly up and worthwhile alternative, useful for those with Bradley, March 2004 Phil Robinson, Tony McKenny (17/04/05) a thin crack to easier but not trivial ground above. large fingers, is to traverse L onto the arête, up 3- Abseil (tape) from top of buttress. D. Fife, P. 4m then back R into the corner. Continue up the L ** Chop Sticks the Sequel 35m 25 ** Butt Funkey 20 Cullen (1987). Direct Start: T. McKenny, P. side of the corner until a small tree is reached in Starts from the platform at the base of Fiddle Re-grade – was 19. Robinson (1-2-05). the middle of the face. Move past the tree to reach Sticks and climbs the arête to the left. Strait a neat little layback crack. At the top move R. forward climbing past a couple of small to mid ** Acid Test 20 ** Line Tamer 50m 20 onto the slab and scramble L. to the bolts. size friends and a bolt leads to the precarious ledge 3m right of Butt Funkey (p70) A real line, another sky rocketing crack. Start as followed by excellent arête climbing on good rock 1) 18 30m. Climb up the wall to large tree, then for Arthur's Circus but abseil in (60 meter rope Abseil off or jumar 20m.out. Unfortunately there (one of the bolts is around on the RH face but stay from the block behind the tree climb the steep useful). Climb the crack (18) for about 10 meters is no clean line to top out. (The off width, bushes on the arête). Take a large wire or 0.5 Camelot for crack to belay. to the square cut ledge where Arthur's Circus and face have been climbed at about grade 20 but higher up, DBB on top of final pillar. The first 8m are only suitable for masochists.) Phil Robinson, were climbed by Hamish Jackson, Jan 2000 (as 2) 20 40m. Traverse right onto the buttress and traverses left. Straight up pleasantly to a small Claire Hewer and Kim Robinson (27-12-05). Chop Sticks, 18). FFA Alan Williams, May 2004. follow the weakness directly up the middle of the sloping ledge where the crack widens. Continue buttress (well protected). to a bulge and a 2metre off width section (crux) with a fist jam at its base. Layback elegantly, F L A N G E B U T T R E S S ØØ The Cuts 40m 18-20 3) 20 45m. From the bushy ledge, follow a crack shakily or thrutch desperately to the ledge above. The arete and face between Big Sticks and up to the buttress above. Step left around the arête Follow the crack to the top. Phil Robinson, Kim Ø Drama Queen 20m 24 Beatings and Digitalis. Step left off the ledge at and climb another crack for about 6m until one Robinson (21 /10/04). Straight up the nose of the minor buttress 10m left the start of Digitalis to head up face to arete at can move right onto to the face. Excellent of Nefarious. A crack (natural gear) leads up to the 15m. Continue up just right of arete through thin climbing follows to a large ledge. arete (3 U’s). Rap anchors. Sam Edwards, Jan/97. moves (crux), then run it out to the small ledge. 4) 5m. Up the wall above to a rap station. The intimidating corner above merges with ØØ Nefarious 25m 22 Digitalis and is brilliant (grade 20 crux, 1/2-3/4 G.Phillips, D.Fife, Apr/96. The arête and face between Pooch Gully and cam important), alternatively traverse left along Slippery Sensation (p64). The crux is towards the ledge, around arete to the BB on Neon God. First * Circus Taz 60m 18 top (some of the anchors after this are not visible section: D.Stevenson, J.Otlowsky 19'96; as The first line left of Arthur's Circus. Best from below). Roger Parkyn, Jan/96. described: Hamish and Marcel Jackson, Mar/98. approach is to abseil in (60 meter rope). 1) 26m Follow the chimney to the overhang ØØ Neon God 50m 25 (crux). Climb over this and follow the crack to a 1) 25m 22. Follow the straight line of U’s on the ledge on the left at the foot of a corner. wall to the right of Fiddlesticks. 2) 22m The corner to a large bushy ledge.

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2) 25m 25. Continue up the line past a thin and The massive arête 15m right of Brown Madonna. huge and spectacular overhanging flake. Belay on ØØØ Completion Backwards Principle 27m 26 technical crux at about one third height. Rap Trend left near the top to DBB. Nick Hancock the ledge at the base of the Hakea tree barring the Same place, now goes free. Take a #1 Camalot for anchors. Dec 03. exit. Abseil off or, if the climb is accessed from the start then U bolts to the top, superb climbing Sam Edwards, Jan/97. the top of the cliffs (fixed abseil rope), prussik out up the seam. access as for The Fifth Elephant. Name?? 25 to one side of the tree. (4-5 metres). Phil & Kim FFA Alan Williams, Apr/01. Ø The Holy Road 25m 23 Sports route, right of above climb. Doug Robinson, Feb/02. An alternative (easier) second pitch to Neon God. McConnell Dec 2003. ØØØ The Fifth Elephant 25m 27 The crux is passing the second U bolt. Roger Days of Future Passed 50m 20 The bolted arete starting 3m right of Completion Parkyn, Jan/97. Ø Cruel But Fair 25m 22/23 The steep corner right of Hakea has been top Backwards Principle. Access by abseil from Access from above using the two U’s at the top of roped. Not recommended unless one is a true anchors below Alberts Tomb, or death scramble up Ø Canis minor 15m 18 Daedulus (p55) to abseil down to another two 25 green climber. Festooned with one or two drapes Rockaway gully (not recommended). Alan An independent third pitch to Great Bitch (p61), m down the wall. Follow the finger crack back up of leptospermun rupestre (alpine tea tree) and Williams, Jan/01. well worth while and unique for the organ pipes. to the top. Good natural pro all the way in a range choked with tussock grass in places. The overhang Upon reaching the top of the corner (pitch 2 Great of sizes. Roger Parkyn, Feb/98. is interesting. Phil Robinson, Mar/02. ØØØ Slap Dancer 10m 27 Bitch), instead of traversing left to the Fiddlesticks A funky and physical climb up the two north ledge swing right on to the face of the pillar Claret Corner 108m 16 Ø A Step Back 55m 19 facing aretes on the Tomb (p37). Sam Edwards, looming above. Up the intermittent layback cracks Alternative pitch 3 (p55) 35m. From the recessed The steep line immediately left of Tartarus. Mar/97. between horizontals, using the right arete at times. stance step left and climb the thin crack until a Scramble up to the foot of Tartarus, climbing up Descend from the pillar by abseil. Marcel & move can be made back right onto the face to the left a further few metres to a sloping grassy ledge ØFall Out 15m 23 Hamish Jackson, Apr/98. left of the chimney. Bridge and face climb to the at the base of the line. The awkward face and crack behind Alberts top, finishing over the bulge. Avoids the slippery (1) 40m. Climb the long intimidating crack. Plenty Tomb. Fully Bolted. G Phillips, Feb 00. ØØØ After Midnight 50m 24 and difficult chimney. Tony McKenny, John of interest on the way. Crux is about half way up Digitalis and Brown Madonna (p62) McKenny, Mar/02. where it widens above an ancient white crusty nut ØØØ James's Arete 15m 25 The track, from Northern Butress up to the Another amazing arete. The lad has shown what and biner (remnants of a 1960's attempt). Belay at ØØ Soliton 35m 20 the base of the large blocks. Amphitheatre, passes below an orange wall; can be done with school holidays and a nickel- High quality climbing up the exposed line below downhill of Albert’s Tomb (p37). Climb the arete cadmium power-pack. The route is quality all the and right of the last (20m) pitch of Split Column. (2) 15m. Continue with care past the blocks. At on the right side of the orange wall. Anything in or way and has become a modern classic. Fifteen Start: Abseil down the NW side of Split Column to the top move straight up past the bush or make an beyond the crack right of the arete is off-route (not draws required en-route plus something to clip belay in a right facing corner not far above the awkward traverse right into the hole at the top of as contrived as it sounds as once you get going it into the abseil anchors. Sam Edwards, Jan/95. large bushy ledge 50m from the top. Step left onto Tartarus which leads through to the Cossack is quickly left behind). Sustained climbing to a the face and climb through balancy moves with Column abseil anchors. crux high up. Roger Parkyn, Mar/98. ØØØ Pleasant Screams 55m 26 spaced gear to the thin crack. Follow the crack P.Robinson, Bruce Terry, May/02 Named in honour of James Moar, a good friend, Tasmania’s To Bolt or Not To Be! Between (crux) and then easier arete to the ledge of split Digitalis and Brown Madonna (p62) who died in the Southern Alps. He would have column. Position, position, position. Hamish & ØØØ In Flagrante Delicto 50m 24 loved this one. 1) 20m 25. Climb the flakey wall to a hanging Marcel Jackson, Mar/98. Between Sky Rocket and Potem Tole (p46/47). An belay. An emminently good pitch to "work" in its amazing arete of sustained quality and difficulty Side Saddling Cheescake 12m 23 own right. The flakes are reputed to have resulted The next three routes are between Bad (done as two pitches, no trad gear needed). Roger Left of Jackson’s Apprenice. 5 U-bolts with from the 1967 bushfire and provide good reason Attitude and The Word was Made Flesh. Parkyn, Dec/93. lower-off. Norm Selby, 2001. for wearing a helmet (although they aren’t ØØØ sufficient to detract from this great pitch). Ø Sassanach 50m 19 The Early Bird 20m 24 N O R T H E R N B U T T R E S S 2) 35m 26. Continue up the amazing face above, The line immediately right of Bad Attitude (p48). Access from above. Rap in from the fixed hanger past another 12 U’s. A good line following a steep crack. A small right of The Sword, at the top of carrot top Great Pets 18m 23 (described in craglets 5th edition but not in 6th Sam Edwards, Dec/96. sassafras bush high up provides a welcome rest. Climb the thin face and cracks a few metres right Phil and Kim Robinson 14/3/02. edition) to reach a narrow ledge equipped with a of Sorrow (p34). Doug Fife, Feb/96. DBB (fixed hangers) climb the shallow left facing T H E C O L U M N S ØØ Hakea 50m 21 corner to the right of the belay. Well protected by Ø Frostbite’s for Wusses 25m 20 a range of small to medium cams and wires. FFA ØØ The next line right of Sassanach. A sustained, The arete left of Andromeda and right of ØØ The Tower of Power 60m 25 Alan Williams, Oct 2004. “I can stand about an hour on the tower of power; steep, classic crack of varying width, mostly Raspberry Jam and Crackers (p33). Gear difficult as long as I get a little golden shower.” Frank fingers and hands (but no off-width) with some to place on lead so pre-placed at crux. Kim & Phil Zappa. face climbing at the start. Climb the wall to a thin Robinson, Jul/97. corner. Up this, passing the bulge with finger jams. Continue to an alcove at half height, which allows a good rest. Higher up one pulls around a

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Ø Boys Games 30m 22 Ø Carhookia 20m 26 Thestral (18) Climbs the front of the buttress right of Excellence Start 3m right of the bottom of Lactos (where the Around the corner left of the main overhang. The (p25). Some natural gear can be placed after the abseil lands you). Optional natural gear at the steep wall through the blocks, moving right with first bolt (a half then a 2 friend then a wire). The bottom then 4 bolts to a lower-off. Norm Selby, difficulty on to the slabs. Delicate climbing to the climbing gets harder after the second bolt. The 2000. top. P. Robinson (18/03/04) fourth bolt is best clipped when at chest height as it is pretty strenuous otherwise; the run-out isn’t ØØ Endorphin 26 Muggar (18) excessive. Six bolts in all, the top two with fixed The arête left of Dyazide and right of Great The overhanging crack at the back of the cave, left hangers. Roger Parkyn, 1992. Southern Land. Kim Robinson 14/1/04 of the main wall and beneath the large unstable roof. Watch out for brittle rock. Traverse right ØØ Cascade Crack 27m 25 **Gargamell 20m 28 onto the arête as soon as possible and follow it up, Same place (p21), the last pitch is now free. Three The arête right of Lost Wanderer, delicately keeping to the edge of the cave. P. Robinson U’s protect the first third (technical crux) then a #2 powerful moves with an engaging crux, no natural (27/7/03) Friend or #2 Camalot, small rocks and cams protection required. FFA Alan Williams, Jan 2004 protect the very sustained upper crack. Evan Hedwig (16) Peacock, Jan/94. Don’t Eat Yellow Snow 15m 25 A traverse line on the left of the main face, right of (p 131). The old aid line is now free and makes for the overhangs. Up the short, shallow corner just Ø Sergeant Slaughter 12m 21 some good climbing. Climb the very thin crack left of the tree (as for Muggles). Traverse left as Pleasant climbing up the face starting about 30m with increasing difficulty. Small camming units soon as feasible above the overhang until one can diagonally uphill to the left of Johnson’s Knob required. Marcel Jackson, Feb/95. climb straight up to the top. P. Robinson (p16). 4 BR plus lower-offs. Garry Phillips, Rosy Pink Cadilllac Direct 25m 25 (19/7/03). Oct/95. There is now a bolt at the start and another for the finish. This is now the preferred means of lead but Muggles (13) Ø We Can Jam Too 15m 18 it is very strenuous placing gear at the start of the Start just left of the tree (as for Hedwig). The The obvious crack line on the small buttress crack (at about 5m). shallow corner and face to the top. P.R. (19/7/03) directly above Child’s Play and War Toy. Scramble up the gully a few meters and turn L up Tomi (15) another 6m. to the base of the crack. Steep and N E W W O R L D Another pleasant route, climbing the face up the exciting following the crack just L of the arête. main part of the cliff, halfway between the two Belay back at a small Hakea tree. Either abseil off Ø Cranky Girl 10m 24 trees. Not as juggy as it looks. Beware of seepage or battle Hakeas upwards towards Sergeant The bolted arete on the next column left of Dvorak in wet weather. P.R. (19/7/03). Slaughter and exit R near Johnstone’s Knob. John Goes Metal. Alan Williams, Jan 2002 Fisher (the younger one), Julie Robinson (1 May Gharial (17) 2005). At the extreme right of the main wall, one metre left of the corner. Start next to a tree at the bottom Ø Great Red Pointer 12m 19 C R O C O D I L E R O C K of the cliff (trees not required on climb!). Delicate Bizarre climbing up the side of the phallus that face climbing. Straight up. Good value. P.R. faces Northern Buttress (p16). Involves using the By Phil Robinson (18/3/04) (19/7/03) aretes on either side; sometimes simultaneously. Three bolts. Roger Parkyn, 1993. A small (8-10metre) sandstone outcrop Three shorter climbs to the right of the with a few smaller ones either side. On main corner: - L O S T W O R L D Hunters Track above Junction Cabin. Quickest approach is to park at the Chalet Quarryman 25m 18 and follow the track down below the road The twin cracks between Face It and Play Dirty past the two boulder fields (20minutes). (p123/124). An epic clean on lead and upgraded Look out for the mighty crag on the right. from "only 12". Kim & Phil Robinson, Aug/99. A sunny, sheltered spot among the trees ØØØ Cheshire Cat 29 with a number of surprisingly good top The arête left of Lactos and right of Cruise Air. roped climbs. Technical rather than Hardest dolerite route climbed on the mountain to strenuous. Nice walk in, not so nice walk date! Kim Robinson 11/1/04 out (30 minutes uphill) but worth it.

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Slitherin (18) A listing of abseil anchors on the Pipes is shown Climb up the nose, immediately right of the below: Neika Cliffs corner. It has a thin lower section and a bulging finish. P.R. (27/7/03) A good little compact buttress with a variety of routes from grade 20 plus and also offering a not Mungo (13) so steep alternate to Sphinx Rock! All routes are The middle of the broken face, right of the nose. fully bolted with lower offs. Note: Some of the Mantelshelf finish. P.R. (27/7/03) routes have insitu quick draws, these belong to the locals, so don’t take them! Firenze (17) The crack, two metres right of Mungo. A good start followed by a thin finish up the wall to a Area: Route abseiled past: Approx Length Access from ledge. P.R. (27/7/03). Above Broken Buttress The Way 35m Walk University Carpe Diem 45m Scramble Buttress Bulging Buttress Malignant Mushroom 50m + 30m No Step Tier Lone Stranger 40m + 40m Walk Great Tier Janzoon/Suicide Sadness 50m + 5m down-climb No Blue Meridian – route now ? ? equipped with abseil anchors Central Buttress Linda 50m (to ledge at Linda chock- Scramble stone) + 25m (to Battlecruiser ledge) Flange Buttress 1) Top part of Bert’s Fear 15m + 50m walk 2) Brown Madonna 50m climb/abseil Columns, left Cruel but Fair/Daedelus (top 24m to Cruel belay (rap anchors) Walk access for Icarus also) then further to base or 50m (with scrambling to base of cliff) Columns Holiday in Cambodia, 35m (not to base of Organ Pipes) Walk Ultrasound Columns, central Sky-rocket 50m No Amphitheatre Bob Gnarly/Ethnic 30m Walk Cornflake NB: The fixed karabiner on the Amphitheatre abseil is very rusty indeed and shouldn’t be used Northern Buttress Down through the Chasm 50m no Johnson’s Knob Great Red Pointer 15m climb

B L A D E R U N N E R B U T T R E S S

Fly Blown 10m 21 From the left side of the cave pull around the corner and then the slab to the chains. G Phillips Dec 05.

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*Itchy Fingers 10m 22 *Nurse Shark 5m 19 DWS G U N N E R S Q U O I N ( P 12 5 ) As for Fly Blown, but at the jugs traverse right and The blunt arête gained from the left. Nick Sisters Beach up via a thin sequence of moves! G Phillips Dec Hancock, Ken Palmer Mar 04. ***Teen Spirit 35m 24 13B 05. Way up left of the other climbs described in T H E K E Y H O L E F O R T E S C U E B A Y – N E A R T O T E M P O L E Craglets, on a white patch of rock visible from the Project 10m highway. Climb the face and roof to DBB. Nick To find The Keyhole … as you walk into the crag, Direct start to Itchy fingers, dubbed The Bat The Swell Repeller 55m 24 [sport] Hancock, Doug McConnell, Roger Parkyn, Sarah Bass Strait is on your left (ie walking east). You Project after finding a bat living in the cave. Two pitches of stunning arêtes and all bolts. A Hedges Nov 03. can approach the overhanging midden cave (Dogs great bad weather option when the Tote is being Coif etc) by following the path with the rock on ***Future Shock 8m 31 hammered by the swell. Fix a 60m rope to double T H E N O O K (N O R T H E R N B A D G E R S ) your right (Sunshine etc) and the sea on your left From the Off Width chimney head right wards. rings as for the Totem Pole descent but rap and going "up and over" to get to the cave. Crazy stuff! Jake Bresnahan Feb 06. diagonally towards the ocean (south east) heading Details are in Gerry’s new guide but these co- down a scungy corner to a ledge. Continue ordinates may be useful (from Alan Jackson; Alternatively, when you approach the main block Note: the next four routes share the same rapping down wall below to arrive at double FHs they’re all AMG 66 – NOT the new GDA 95): you can veer right and walk up to what I have start on small ledge just left of knife blade arête about referred to as the key hole. It consists of a short 5m above the ocean. Junction of Nook Road and Marshalls Road: ramp up to a large chock stone with a human sized passage that lets you through to the east side of the ***Blubber Boy 15m 29 1) 40m 24. Climb amazing sustained arête past 10 444018, 5424529 Telecommunications tower in saddle: 445395, crag. From there you take a left (keeping the rock As for Blade Runner but keep heading leftwards. FHs that get fairly spaced as you get higher. face on your left) and a short walk back down to Awesome final section! G Phillips Feb 06. Belay at vegetated ledge at DBB. 5425106 Approx. location of Sea View rap station: 445644, the overhanging midden cave (Dogs Coif again). 2) 15m 20. Up thin crack splitting arête above with **Blade Runner 15m 28 5424514. great exposure to small ledge. Sling tooth with Battle on New Year's Eve 10m 16 Starts up NC4 to the last bolt then traverse left large sling and climb easily to top. Belay off the The climb takes the obvious overhanging arete along the break on tiny holds to a hard boulder N O R T H E S K – D O G ’ S H E A D C R A G Tote’s rap rings. Adam Demmert & Neil (approx 10m high) on the block to your right as problem finish. G Phillips Jan 06 Monteith 3.1.2006. ** The Bob McMahon Snide Show 15m 25 you walk up the ramp to the key hole. Natural gear (take a variety of cams - the pro is *New C4s 15m 20 The prow right of Back Street Jeely Roll. Climb the bulge and move up via difficult gear and hard surprisingly bomber). Andrew Chang, Andrew Climb directly up the slightly overhanging wall O R T E S C U E A Y A N D L E S T I C K F B – C Arnold passing a thin section (crux) at two thirds height. moves to a respite. Move right and up the right G Phillips Dec 05 New double belay bolts exist: 1) at the he belay arête. Nick Hancock & Gerry Narcowicz, June * Dolphin 15m 20 stance on the far side of the chasm swim 2) to rig 2004. Lighting bolt shaped overhanging crack 5m uphill the 40m Tyroleon (requires two ropes) just below **Sand Blaster 15m 24 to the left of Battle on New Years Day. Start from Starts up NC4 then traverses right along the break the last (4th) pitch and 3) on the north end of the R O C K Y T O M the lower boulder to gain access to the lower part and up the cool looking arete. Sustained! G actual summit of the Candlestick (it can be used to of the crack. Up crack to pockety rock. Three Phillips Dec 05. get down to the Tyroleon anchors). There is now an additional gate about 800 m before the one marked on the 6th Edition map. bolts to DBB. Andrew Chang, Andrew Arnold. 3 Jan 2005 Sand Blaster Direct 15m 22 You can walk from it. If the timing suits it is The direct start, but in my opinion not very good! open: weekdays 6am – 4pm; Sat 6am – 12 pm; Sun closed. G Phillips Jan 06 A C R O P O L I S ( P 125 )

***The Far Side 30m 25 9B The sharp arête right of Astro Boy. Abseil to the Astro Boy start ledge (a 50m rope doubled just Odds & Sods makes it). Stupidly exposed barn-door lay- backing on perfect rock. Nick Hancock, Roger F O R T E S C U E B A Y ( P 11 5 ) Parkyn Mar 04. **Wet Nurse 15m 23 DWS At the left end of the cliff climb the sharp arête, starting from the ledge on the left which is gained by absel. Nick Hancock, Ken Palmer Mar 04.

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South Sister T H E P I N N A C L E The Pinnacle is a large isolated buttress on the C A R A M E L S L I C E B U T T R E S S ( P 276 ) southern side of the mountain below Dinosaur Buttress. Access by scrambling down beside ***Turn the Page 19 18m Dinosaur Buttress, or abseil from Dinosaur This is the first bolted climb at South Sister area. Buttress and scramble across 5m below the top of The line of bolts left of Science Circus and to the the pinnacle towards the RHS is a ledge from right of the big gully. 7 bolts up an arete to the rap which to abseil. 25m directly below this ledge are point. N Selby, A Mason 13/7/2003. twin jam cracks starting from a small ledge halfway up the cliff. All routes start from this **All Most 27 20 18m ledge as the bottom half of the cliff is vegetated, First line of bolts right of J.O.T.D. 8 bolts to rap but the top 25m are spearing crack-lines. point. N Selby, A Mason 6/9/2003. No Condemnation 25m 22 *The Grand Final Addition 22 18m The thin jam crack on the L below the abseil line. Start as for All most 27 then head right up to the Gerry Narkowicz and Ashley Mason. April 2004 same rap point. N Selby, A Mason 27/9/2003. Not So Squeaky 25m 22 **Slice of Life 15m 26 6B The precise, strenuous thin handcrack on the R At the right side of the cliff climb the sharp below the abseil line with a small roof at half overhanging arête by ludicrous barn-door lay- height. Gerry Narkowicz, Ashley Mason, Andrew backing to DBB. Nick Hancock Apr 04. Martin. 9/12/04.

D I N O S A U R B U T T R E S S ( P 27 8 ) Squeak Is My Hero 25m 19 The next crack to the R, beginning as a finger * The All-consuming Fire 20m 24 crack leading to a neat hand-crack through a roof. The thin crack left of T-Rex. Gerry Narcowicz & Belay on ledge, and then lead short easy chimney Nick Hancock, May 04. to finish. Gerry Narkowicz, Ashley Mason. Andrew Martin. 9/12/04. *** T-Rex 20m 21 Climb the double cracks in a recessed corner. Ashley Mason.

Aging Dinosaur 20m 16 Climb the crack that zig-zags left at about half- height.

** Archaeopteryx 20m 23 Start near the base of Aging Dinosaur but follow the bolts up into the headwall right of it. Ashley Mason Apr 2005.

*** Let’s Evolve 20m 27 7B Fridge lifting arête right of Ageing Dinosaur to DBB. Nick Hancock, May 04.

*** Ice Age 20m 24 7B The beautiful bolted arête at the right end of this face. The top 5m is climbed to the left of the arête. Norm Selby 2005.

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**Sunday Morning 25m 22 ** I’m Beginning to See the Light 25m 18 West Coast: Coastal Follow the right trending diagonal off blocks to Climb a right trending ramp (4 & 5 Camalot) to the flared vertical cracks. Follow these to a glued open grooves (4 glued carrots). Sarah Hedges & Info from Nick hancock carrot and a thin move over a bulge. Climb up to a Nick Hancock Jan 2004. deep flared crack (4 Camalot) and another bolt on T H E V E L V E T U N D E R G R O U N D the final slab. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan * Black Angels Death Song 25m 19 2004. Near the top of the rocky gully on the right side of From the Granville harbour Road travel 3 km the crag climb a left trending crack to an easy along Climes Track to the top of a steeper section * Venus In Furs 25m 24 finish. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004. (where it gets too rough for 2WD vehicles). Walk Climb the brutal fist crack to shrubbery. Go left to along Climes Track down to the creek. At the another crack then back right to a black groove S O M E W H E R E NW O F T R I A L H A R B O U R creek look for a smaller track on the right which through the final tier. 4, 5 & 6 friend-sized cams connects with another track paralleling the coast. essential. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan From the campsite at the north end of Trial Harbor Continue walking south on it for half an hour to a 2004. walk north along the coast for 30 minutes until a 30 m high cliff set back 50 m from the coast and long blank wall blocks further progress. above a pond. Guesstimated position is AGD 66 *** Waiting For The Man 25m 26 is 341200 E; 5363200 N. Climb a very thin crack up a prow past 4 glued *** Goldrush 20m 21 carrots to another on the pocketed wall above. Climb the immaculate dyke via three carrots to an *** I’ll Be Your Mirror 25m 20 Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004. easier finish via a crack. Nick Hancock & Ken Thin cracks on good wires then carefully up the Palmer, Jan 2004. easy slab above. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges Jan 2004.

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The Walk: The walk up into the Tyndall’s is Bleeding Ferals Prow 45m 21 [mixed] The climb starts on the far left end of the ledge West Coast: Tyndall typical of many of the walks in the southwest, Neil’s description: Needs another 4 or 5 bolts to (facing cliff). Up left side of prow (no gear) to steep, muddy, ill defined (at the end) and too long! make it sane. Unfortunately we only brought two gain flake and marginal wires at 7m. Up flake to Range Follow the track till it peters out (TR045) then bolts with us! Located on end of second buttress gain arête proper (FH). Boldly up face on the left follow a compass bearing directly east until you north east of camping cave over looking the lake. side of the arête (crux) and trend rightwards to Info from Kim Robinson reach the cliff – see diagram below. Note: Being This buttress has a distinct red capstone layer that terrifyingly exposed position on the arête with bolt one of the wettest places in Tasmania the weather is visible from above Rain Dancer (about 300m miles below and out of sight. Whittle in some poor Climbing in the Tyndall Range is only in its here can be extremely changeable so take warm away). Walk to end of jutting buttress and locate trad behind crystals and climb jugs to small ledge. infancy, the scope for sport and traditional routes clothes, wet weather gear and a GPS\compass single FH anchor bolt on last vertical rock before Continue up slabby arête above on spaced trad here is enormous. Several years ago Doug Fife even if the weather is perfect when you set out. congomlorate ridge slabs down below. A #2 cam gear to top. Would be a much nicer route once realised the potential of the 300m cliffs above (what type?) slot is about 5m back from this bolt retrobolted. Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie Lake Huntley. He, with various partners including L A K E H U N T L E Y anchor and should be used to backup this bolt 6.1.2006. Garn Cooper over several trips established a anchor. Fix a single rope and rap 40m down the mixed free and aid route up this main face. More Rain Dancer 80m 22 Sport ridge to the large flat ledge (sleeps 5 if you are recently Adam Donaghue has pushed another aid Scramble down (via TR201) to the top of the keen!). This is the second ledge down the route line up the middle of the cliff and is currently in climb (TR200), two 40m abseils will bring you to and is big enough to walk around on un-roped. the process of equipping a 6 pitch free route, the base of it. Pitch 1 Grade 22, Pitch 2 Grade 21. Use fixed rope as anchor for belayer. which he expects to go at the grade of 27. Gear: 2 Ropes, 20 Quickdraws. The Drive: The Tyndall Range is approximately 4- Check the climb out (bolts are not so obvious in 5hrs drive from Hobart followed by 2-3hrs walk. the bright conglomerate) on your way down as To get there, drive to Queenstown then follow the once you’ve pulled your abseil ropes there is no main Murchison Highway north past the Strahan other way out unless you have some natural gear! junction toward Rosebery. Approx. 13km from FA. Claire Hewer, Kim Robinson, March 2005. Queenstown you will get to the Anthony Road turnoff on the right. Take this and follow it for another 10-11km until you reach a gravel car park on the right (GSP ID# TR000, see Table at the end of this section). The driving is now over and the walking begins.

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M T T Y N D A L L

Bunny Hop - Grade 15m 17 Sport [“2” on photo] Scramble down to the top of the climb from the base of Bunny Ears and abseil off the bolts. FA Kim Robinson, March 2005.

Bunny Ears 12m 12 Sport [“1” on photo] Either abseil or scramble to the base, Pleasant climbing up the short wall. FA Claire Hewer, March 2005.

GPS C O O R D S I N GDA94 /WGS84:

ID# Type Description H E N TR000 Carpark 509 380893 5356525 Route Track Start (junction with TR010 Junction Transmission Line Access Rd) 528 381398 5356599 Route Way High point of track (at start of TR045 Point Plateau) 1103 383833 5356475 TR100 Campsite Bivvy Cave beside tarns 1108 383846 5355936 TR200 Crag; Climb Raindancer; Top rap anchors 1037 384138 5355850 Raindancer; Walk down from here (then skirt around to TR201 Crag; Climb anchors) 1079 384065 5355855

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