Updates to th Craglets 6 Edition Contents Collated by Roger Parkyn Ben Lomond......................................................................................................................................2 Bicheno..............................................................................................................................................2 This version updated at: 16/3/2006 Bruny Island ......................................................................................................................................2 Cape Raoul........................................................................................................................................6 Cole’s Bay – Coastal Cliffs9.......................................................................................................... 10 The general idea … Cole’s Bay – Hazards Cliffs .......................................................................................................... 12 Is to collate anything new into this document to facilitate both 1) getting the info out quickly to climbers and Flinders Island................................................................................................................................ 14 2) providing a good info source for future guide books. I intend to make a distribution list and do a send-out Launceston Stuff ............................................................................................................................ 14 whenever this is updated (if you want to be added to or taken off this list please e-mail me). Mount Brown ................................................................................................................................. 15 Crescent Bay .................................................................................................................................. 16 Mount Wellington .......................................................................................................................... 18 Thank you: Odds & Sods .................................................................................................................................. 24 I’ve done the collation and some of the writing but the other people you can thank for this info are: Sisters Beach .................................................................................................................................. 25 David James, Al Williams, Norm Selby, Marcel Jackson; Bill Baxter; Ben Raymond; Andrew Chang; South Sister .................................................................................................................................... 26 Nick Hancock; Alan Jackson; Garry Phillips; Phil Robinson; Tony McKenny. West Coast: Coastal ....................................................................................................................... 27 West Coast: Tyndall Range ........................................................................................................... 28 New Route Info: Must be electronic. E-mail it to: [email protected] (don’t bother trying to tell me anything – I won’t remember it). Please use plain text but follow the layout used here as closely as you can (e.g. with respect to capitalisation; title/length/grade; no “FA”; correct date format, no tab characters). Here’s an example (this is a very commonly used format in Australia!): *Rain of Terror 40m 18 Goes from the end of the 1967 access route, at the base of the Cake, up to the col on the north side of the Cake. In the corner is an off-width. Instead take the hand crack 4m right of it. Roger Parkyn, Doug McConnel & Nick Hancock, Jan 2003. Copyright: This is copyright to the extent that you can not copy and sell it. It is OK to print for your personal use or to give away. It is also OK to e-mail it around. If you want to use info in here for a guide book please seek permission. 1 Ben Lomond Born Loser 40m 23 Ben Lomond Climbs a series of left-facing corners left of Local Bicheno Bruny Island Winner. The FFA took five 8m screamers from by Roger Parkyn the crux over two attempts before cracking it. by Nick Hancock by Tony McKenny G.Narkowitz, Jul 1984. I’ve corrected the Local Loser topo and the N I C K P A R K The rock is unusual for dolerite as the cliffs are all description for Hidden Secrets and Born Loser. R O B I N S B U T T R E S S off vertical, providing less strenuous and gentler From the end of Harveys farm Rd, just after 321 climbing than is typical for this type of rock. Like Defender of the Faith (Correction) and before Avalon, walk south for 15 minutes all coastal cliffs, routes may need some cleaning Suggested grade 22 and it starts 5m left of Rajah until the path touches bare granite slabs. From before use but generally the rock is good. L O C A L L O S E R ( P 9 ) not Dangerman here go down and the right to a small crag about However, the top of most cliffs is loose and 30 m before the sea. unconsolidated and needs particular care. The most prominent reference feature is ** The King of Kings & The Social Leppers 90m 24 the super-dihedral with a fused crack. 1) 40m 24. 7m right of Rondeau climb the open The Wrong Trousers 6m 10 A greater danger is probably from wave action, This is not (yet) a climb. Hidden Secrets corner direct to some good finger-locks and Just left of the blank central slab, climb a crack particularly when a southwester is blowing, but starts about 5m left of this. monster rock-overs, to a scarey flakey finale. into a short right-facing corner. Sarah Hedges & most cliffs explored so far have at least some Nick Hancock July 2004. climbs accessible at any state of the tide. 2) 10m. Scramble up right over blocks to below Hidden Secrets 40m 20 an open corner. Start at the right end of the large boulder standing Chicken Run 6m 23 There are still many lines and crags to be explored out from the base of the cliff. Climb up the corner 3) 20m 23. Bridge widely up the twin cracks in To the right of the blank slab, climb a small blind but the drive from Hobart, and the cost of the ferry system, over the bulge, then traverse right. Climb the corner with poor protection to a scarey finish. right facing corner into a flaring finger crack. fare, may deter the masses. However, the situation upwards when you get to the famous “creaky 4) 20m. Up easily. Nick Hancock & Sarah Hedges July 2004. is stunning and the cliffs provide some of the best hold”. Belay on the large ledge. Colin Rees. easy climbing in the south east of the State. Gerry Narcowicz & Nick Hancock, Feb 2005. A Grand Day Out 5m 5 Four meters right climb an easy crack just left of Access: From the Ferry terminus (timetable the shrubbery. Sarah Hedges & Nick Hancock published daily in the Mercury) drive as far south July 2004. as you can, via Lunawanna, to the Lighthouse. Parking is available close by (approximately 2hr Tree Route 7m 10 from Hobart if coordinated with the car ferry). A few minutes past Nick Park, on the main track, is a huge boulder. Climb the tree that leans Camping/Accommodation: The nearest campsite against the south face of the boulder. Sarah for the South Bruny climbs is a couple of Hedges & Nick Hancock July 2004. kilometers before the lighthouse at Great Taylors Bay, on the right down Jetty Road (signposted). Bush toilets are available but bring your own water. Accommodation is also now available in the old Lighthouse Keepers Cottages run by Andy and Beth Gregory (April 2004). Call in and see them, they can also advise on access and prevailing weather conditions. Park entry fees apply and passes are available from the D’Entrcasteaux Visitors Center at Kettering, or at registration booths at the Neck and the Lighthouse Road (Mable Bay). NB The gate to the lighthouse area is closed from 5.30pm till 9.30 am. 2 Bruny Island Q U I E T B A Y C O U R T S B A Y - C U R R Y C L I F F S Tiqa 26m 13 The ridge of Curry cliff leads down to a The open groove immediately to the right. L. point where the following small climb is Follow the open ridge top through the Walk up towards old lighthouse and head off left Wood & P. Bigg 20/7/76 located. Either traverse round over the burnt areas (2002) N. W. from the across the paddocks just after you pass the water from Lifespice or climb one of the Lighthouse gate and scramble down the generator sheds towards the new solar powered ***Steamed Rice 26 m 17 standard routes and scramble down from steep slope to the Bay. About 30 minutes. lighthouse. Cut down to the bay on the right The wide arête on the right. A classy climb. I. above. The following climb is to the right (Courts Bay) and follow the shoreline back west to Snape & C. Cole 16/6/01 of the small gulch. *Lest We Forget 45m 17 the crag. Excellent crack climbing, death on a stick finish. The next climb is the open book corner SkullDuggery 9m 15 Start by soloing round to the left onto the large This cliff cuts the beach at right angles and (about 1.5m wide). At the left end of the ledge is a left facing corner ledge. May be difficult in a high sea! The climb features a series of shallow, gentle-angled square and leaning hand crack. A touch awkward. Dave follows a sinuous groove at the left hand edge of cut grooves. A prominent feature is a short broken 1.5 Groove 22m 12 James and Matt Jones April 2002 the ledge, where the kelp starts. Belay back on the ramp about 6m up, almost above the high water Climbs the wide corner , bridging to the top. C. dry part of the ledge. mark. There is a fixed abseil point above (Basil) Rathbone & C Strang 28/6/76