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A B C ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty

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Index

A Batavia Coast 167-76 Lake Argyle 227 bus travel 266, 267 Aboriginal art, see bat lyssavirus 257 Mornington Wilderness bushfires 260 indigenous art beaches 17, 33 Camp 221 bushwalking 12, 18, 35-6, Aboriginal people 231, 239, Albany 149 Parry Lagoons Nature see also hiking see also indigenous art Bunker Bay 126 Reserve 226 Bibbulmun Track 35, 103, cultural issues 262 Cable Beach 205, 208-9, red-tailed tropicbird 126 145, 149 history 232-3, 239 208 Rockingham 96 Cape to Cape Track 127 Noongar people 47, 50, 51, Cape Naturaliste 126 Shoalwater Islands Marine Derby 218 Park 96 78, 120, 149 Cottesloe Beach 54 Esperance 164 Two Peoples Bay 155 mining employment 247 Dampier Peninsula 216 Fitzgerald River National Waychinicup National Park 160 Pinjarra 100 Denmark 146-7 Park 156 Kalbarri 173 sacred sites 79, 91, 93 Dynamite Bay 117 99 200 stolen generations 237 Eighty Mile Beach 205 Boab Festival 219 Margaret River 135 Wardan Aboriginal Centre Emu Beach 149 127 Bond, Alan 113, 239 Mitchell Falls 223 Fremantle 82 Western Desert Mob 251 books 246, 247, 249 Pemberton 140 Hellfire Bay abseiling 135, 200, 173, 226 box jellyfish 259 Punurrunha (Mt Bruce) Kalbarri 173 accommodation 59, 254-5, Boyup Brook 138 201 Mandalay 147 see also individual Bremer Bay 159 Stirling Range National 98 locations breweries, see beer Park 158 Middleton Beach 149 camping 177, 194 Bridgetown 138 54 station stays 187 Brookfield Place 16 104 activities 12, 34-40, 135, see Rottnest Island business hours 15 (Wadjemup) 93 Broome 11, 44, 204-17, 208, also individual activities 212, 214, 11 Busselton 123-5, 39 safety 260, 261 air travel 265-6, 266-7 accommodation 210-11 Busselton Jetty 123-4, 39 Shark Bay 10 Albany 149-54, 150, 155 activities 205, 208-9 Turquoise Bay 194 aquariums 54, 177 climate 204 beer 16, 19, 33, 130, 241 C Araluen Botanic Park 103 drinking 213-15 Bell Tower 50 Cable Beach 205, 208-9, area codes 15, 261 entertainment 213-15 Bibbulmun Track 12, 35, 103, 208 Art Gallery of Western events 210 camel-riding 11, 209, 11 Australia 50 145, 149, 12 festivals 210 camping 177, 194 ATMs 258 bicycle travel, see cycling food 211, 213 Canning Stock Route 29 Augusta 136 birdwatching 38, 39 highlights 206-7 canoeing, see also kayaking Australia II 238 books 246 information 215 Kalbarri 172, 173 Australian Rules football 231 Broome 210, 216 shopping 215 Bunbury 120 Kununurra 226 Avon Valley 106-10, 107 sights 205, 208-9 Cape Range National Margaret River Wine Park 195 tours 209-10 Region 127 B Cocos (Keeling) Islands travel to/from 215-16 Mornington Wilderness Badgingarra National 202 travel within 215 Camp 221 Park 115 Derby 218 Broome Bird Nannup 137 Balingup 137-8 Dongara-Port Denison Observatory 216 Pemberton 140 Batavia 234, 233 167 budget 15, 42, 59 Walpole-Nornalup Esperance 161 Bunbury 120-3, 121 National Park 145, 146 Exmouth 188 Bunbury Regional Art 164 Galleries 120 Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse Map Pages 000 172, 173 Bungle Bungle Range, see 136 Photo Pages 000 Kimberley 210 Cape Naturaliste 126 275 Albany 152 Houtman Abrolhos Cape Le Grand National 194, 195-6 Augusta 136 Islands 172 Park 164 Cape to Cape Track 127 Cape Range National Jurien Bay 117 Carnarvon 180 Carnarvon 180-2 Park 195 Millstream-Chichester Coral Bay 186 car travel 266, 267-70 Coral Bay 186-7 National Park 198 Dampier Peninsula 4WDs 268 Derby 218, 219 Ningaloo Marine Park 216, 217

car hire 268-9 Devonian Reef National 9, 194, 9 Derby 217, 219 INDEX driving licences Parks 223 Perth 55 Edel Land 178 268 Esperance 162 Rockingham 96 Esperance 162

fuel 268 Exmouth 190 Rottnest Island Exmouth 188, 189-90 C-G insurance 269 Fremantle 83 (Wadjemup) 93 Gibb River Road 221, 222 purchase 269 Kalbarri 173 safety 40, 261 Green Head 117 road conditions 269-70 Kununurra 226 Shoalwater Islands Hopetoun 160 Marine Park 96 road hazards 270 Lake Argyle 227 Kalbarri 172, 173 dolphin watching 179-80 road rules 270 Mandurah 98 Kununurra 225 cruises 122, 151, 162, safety 260-1 Nornalup 145 Lancelin 114 179-80 Castle Rock Granite Pemberton 140 Leeman 117 Dolphin Discovery Skywalk 16 Perth 56, 57 Centre 122 Mandurah 97 caves 33 Rottnest Island Dongara 167-8 North West Cape 196 Calgardup Cave 134 (Wadjemup) 94 drinking, see beer, wine, Point Quobba 182 CaveWorks 134 Swan Valley 56, 57 individual locations Port Gregory 176 Giants Cave 134 Walpole 145 driving, see car travel Port Hedland 201 Jewel Cave 16, 136 currency 14 Dryandra Woodland 29, 102 Rottnest Island Jingemia Cave 111 customs regulations 255 Drysdale River 223 (Wadjemup) Lake Cave 134, 32 cycling 38, 266, 267 Duncan Road 16, 28, 222 Fitzroy Crossing 223-4 Mammoth Cave 134 Dwellingup 101 Dunsborough 125-6 Flannery, Tim 246, 247 Mimbi Cave 223 Exmouth 188 DVDs 258 fly in fly out (FIFO) workers 245-6 Moondyne Cave 16, 136 Geraldton 168, 170 Dwellingup 100-1 Ngilgi Cave 128 Margaret River 135 food 17, 19, 241-4, see also individual locations Stockyard Gully Caves Perth 55 117 Port Hedland 201 E football 231 economics 230 Yanchep National Rottnest Island Fremantle 11, 43, 46, 77-88, Park 113 (Wadjemup) 91 Edel Land 178 80 cell phones 14, 261 electricity 256 accommodation 46, 83-4 Cervantes 114-16 Ellensbrook Homestead activities 82-3 D children, travel with 41-2 134 climate 46 Dampier 196 Fremantle 79 embassies 256 drinking 86-7 Dampier Peninsula 216-17 Perth 56 emergencies 15 events 83 dangers, see safety Christmas Island 202 environmental issues festivals 83 Darling Range 102-4 265 climate 14, 20-2, see also food 84-6 dengue fever 257 individual locations books 246, 247, 249 highlights 48-9 Denham 176, 177-9 Cocos (Keeling) Islands mining 245-9, 247-8 history 78 Denmark 146-9 202 public transport 248 shopping 87-8 Derby 217-19, 221 consulates 256 Esperance 161-4 sights 78-9, 81-2 Devonian Reef National convicts 234, 235-6 events 20-2 tourist information 88 Parks 222-3 Coral Bay 186-8 exchange rates 15 tours 83 29 Coral Coast 44, 183-95, Exmouth 188-91, 189 travel to/from 88 184-5 disabilities, travellers with 262 travel within 88 Cossack 197 diving & snorkelling 12, 17, F Fremantle Prison 78-9 courses 33, 38, 40 federation 237 cooking 16, 128-9, Albany 151 festivals 20-2 142, 171 G Bundegi Reef 192 FIFO, see fly in fly out wine 241 galleries, see museums & Busselton 124, 39 (FIFO) workers galleries Cowaramup 130-1 Christmas Island 202 films 230 Gascoyne Coast 180-2 craft beer, see beer Coral Bay 186, 189 fishing 40 gay travellers 73, 256 credit cards 258 Dunsborough 125 Albany 151 Geographe Bay 120-6 crime 260 Esperance 162 Augusta 136 crocodiles 259 Geraldton 168-72, 169 Exmouth 188, 189 Broome 209 Giants Cave 134 cruises, see also whale Bundegi Beach 192 watching Geraldton 170 giardiasis 257 276 Gibb River Road 12, 220, 12 insurance 257 Lake Warden Wetland Millstream-Chichester itineraries 26, 26 internet access 257-8 System 161-2 National Park 198 Gnaraloo Bay 182 internet resources 15 Lancelin 113-14 Mingenew 112 gold mining 236, 245, see itineraries 23-9, 23, 24, language 14 mining 230, 236, 240, also mining 26, 27, 28-9 Leeman 117 245-9 Green Head 117 Leeuwin Estate 20, 32 Mitchell Falls 223, 25

INDEX Leeuwin-Naturaliste mobile phones 14, 261 Greenbushes 137-8 J Greenough 170 National Park 127, 29 money 14, 15, 255-6, 258 James Price Point 247-8, Monkey Mia 10, 44, 165, Guilderton 113 249 legal matters 258

G-M 179-80, 10 Guildford 104-6 Janszoon, Willem 233 lesbian travellers 73, 256 climate 165 Jarrahdale 101 lighthouses 33 Albany 149 highlights 166 H jellyfish 259 Cape Leeuwin 136 Moondyne Cave 16, 136 Halls Creek 223-4 Jewel Cave 16, 136 Cape Naturaliste 126 Moondyne Joe 109 Hamelin Pool 176 Johns, Joseph Bolitho 109 Carnarvon 180 Moora 111-12 Hamersley Gorge 201 Jurien Bay 116-17 Vlamingh Head 192 Morawa 112 Hartog, Dick 232, 233-4 Little Creatures 85, 18 motorcycle travel 266, health 256-7 K 267-70 heat exhaustion 259 Kalamunda 103 driving licences 268 heatstroke 259 Kalbarri 172-6, 174 M insurance 269 hiking, see bushwalking Kalbarri National Park 172-3 Malcolm Douglas road conditions 269-70 Wilderness Park 216 history 232-40 Kalgoorlie pipeline 236-7 road hazards 270 Mandalay Beach 147 Aboriginal people 239 Kalumburu 28, 221 road rules 270 Mandurah 97-9 books 233, 235 Karijini National Park 11, safety 260-1 Manjimup 138-9 British settlement 234-6 198-201, 199, 11 Mt Augustus maps 258 Depression, the 237-8 Karratha 196-7 (Burringurrah) Marble Bar 28 203 Dutch exploration 233-4 Karri Forest Explorer National Park 28, 197 federation 237 140, 141 Margaret River 16, 30-3, 43, Mt Barker 156 131-4, 132 films 236 kayaking, see also Mt Clarence 151 gold mining 236 canoeing climate 118 Mt Lesueur 116 mining boom 240 Broome 210 food 243 Mt Melville 151 postwar reconstruction Bunbury 121 highlights 119 Mullewa 112 238-9 Cable Beach 210 Margaret River Gourmet Mundaring 103-4 Escape 22 stolen generations Coral Bay 186 museums & galleries Margaret River Wine 237 Dampier Peninsula 217 Art Gallery of Western Festival 21 WWI 237 Dwellingup 101 Australia 50 Margaret River Wine WWII 238 Australian Sailing Exmouth 188-9 Region 9, 127-37, 128, hitching 266 Museum 98 Margaret River 135 9, 32 holidays 258, 259 Brig Amity 150 Rockingham 96 marine wildlife 19, see Bunbury Regional Art Hopetoun 160-1 Kimberley, the 44, 217-28, also individual marine Galleries 120 Horrocks 176 206-7 animals Geraldton Regional Art horse riding 173 highlights 204, 206-7 markets 241, see also Gallery 168 Houtman Abrolhos indigenous art 250-1 shopping Gomboc Gallery 104 Islands 172 itineraries 26, 26 Broome 210, 218 Kimberley art Hyde Park 51 Carnarvon 180, 181 Kimberley Land Council cooperatives 218 Hyden 102 231 Denmark 147 Motor Museum of hypothermia 259 Kings Park & Botanic Esperance 161 WA 105 Garden 51, 62 Exmouth 188 New Norcia Museum & I kiteboarding 113-14, 170, Fremantle 81, 88 Art Gallery 110-11 181, 188 indigenous art 13, 19, 21, Kununurra 227 Perth Institute of 250-2 kitesurfing 55, 113, 135, 170 Perth 64 Contemporary Arts galleries 218, 251, 252 Knox Gorge 200 Margaret River 133 50 Wandjina 13, 218, 221, Kununurra 221-2, 225-8 Northam 108 Revolutions 105 223, 250, 251, 13 Kwinana Fwy 97 Port Hedland 201 Round House 79 insects 259 York 107 Short Street Gallery 16, 209 L measures 258 Tunbridge Gallery Lake Argyle 227 meningococcal disease 133-4 Map Pages 000 Lake Cave 134, 32 257 microbreweries, see beer Vancouver Arts Photo Pages 000 Lake Ninan 112 Centre 151 277 Western Australian Purnululu National Park P itineraries 23-9, 23, 24, Museum (Geraldton) 224, 225, 36 parks & gardens, see also 26, 27, 28-9 168 Serpentine National national parks, nature Margaret River 30-3 Western Australian Park 101 reserves outback travel 19, 28-9, Museum – Albany 149 Shannon National Araluen Botanic Park 103 261 Western Australian Park 142 Fremantle 82 repeat visitors 16 Museum – Maritime Stirling Range National Hyde Park 51 travel seasons 20-2 INDEX 79 Park 157-9, 158-9 Kings Park & Botanic Point Quobba 182 Western Australian Garden 51 Point Samson 197-8 Museum – Perth 50-1 163-4 Lake Monger 55 population 51, 231 M-S Western Australian Whiteman Park 105 Museum – Shipwreck 154-5, 37 Galleries 79 Pemberton 139-42 156-7 Tuart Forest National Perenjori 112 Port Denison 167-8 Whale World Museum Park 123 154 Port Gregory 176 Walpole-Nornalup Perth 11, 43, 46-77, 48-9, National Park 145 52, 61, 62, 11 Port Hedland 201-3, 205 N Walyunga National accommodation 46, public holidays 258, 259 57-60, 63 Nannup 137 Park 104 public transport 270 activities 55-6 national parks, see also Waychinicup National Purnululu National Park nature reserves, parks Park 156 beaches 54, 60, 69, 72 224, 225, 36 & gardens West Cape Howe climate 46 National Park 149 Alexander Morrison drinking 69-72 Q National Park 115 William Bay National emergency services 75 quokkas 94, 34 Avon Valley National Park 146, 5 entertainment 72-4 Park 110 Yalgorup National events 57 Bagindgarra National Park 99 festivals 57 R Park 115 Yanchep National food 46, 64, 64-9, 68 radio 258 Park 113 103 highlights 48-9 red-tailed tropicbirds 126 nature reserves, see also Cape Arid National internet access 75 religion 231 Park 164 national parks, parks Rockingham 96-7 & gardens, wildlife internet resources 76 Cape Le Grand National Roebourne 197-8 Park 164 reserves media 75 Ross River fever 257 Cape Range National Dampier Peninsula 216 medical services 75 Rottnest Island Park 194-6 Forest Heritage Reserve money 75 (Wadjemup) 43, 91-6, 101 nightlife 69-72 Devonian Reef National 92, 38 Park 222-3 Parry Lagoons Nature postal services 75 Fitzgerald River National Reserve 226 shopping 74-5 Park 160 Reynoldson National sights 50-1 S Park 112 François Peron National tourist information sacred sites 108 Park 179 Shoalwater Islands 75-6 safety 40, 259-61 Marine Park 96 John Forrest National tours 56-7 sailing 55, 187, 25 Two Peoples Bay 155 Park 103 travel to/from 76 sandboarding 113, 114, 121, Newman 198 Kalamunda National travel within 76-7 162, 173 Park 103 New Norcia 110-11 Perth Institute of Scott, Bon 82 Kalbarri National Park newspapers 258 Contemporary Arts 50 Shark Bay 10, 176-80, 172-3 Ningaloo Marine Park 9, Perth International Arts 177, 10 Karijini National Park 11, 193-5, 193, 9 Festival 20, 57 Shark Bay World Heritage 198-201, 199, 11 environmental issues Perth Mint 50 Discovery Centre Leeuwin-Naturaliste 248, 249 photography 258 177 National Park 127, 29 Nornalup 145-6 , the 44, 196-203, sharks 40, 260, 261, see Northam 108-9 185 also whale sharks 115-16 numbats 247, 13 Pilbara Red Earth Arts shipwrecks 79, 93, 168, 172, Millstream-Chichester Festival 22 209, 233, 233 National Park 198 Pinjarra 99-100 Short Street Gallery 16 Mt Augustus O skydiving 56, 100, 108 (Burringurrah) Old Farm at Strawberry Pinnacles Desert 11, smoking 258 National Park 28, 197 Hill 151 114-16, 10 snakes 260, 261 Nambung National opening hours 15 planning, 14-15, 43-5, see also individual snorkelling, see diving & Park 115 Ord River Irrigation locations snorkelling Peak Charles National Scheme 239 budget 255 South Coast Hwy 156 Park 164 Ord Valley Muster 21 calendar of events 20-2 Southbound Festival Porongurup National Overlander Roadhouse 20, 124 Park 156-7 176-7 children, travel with 41-2 278 spiders 260 astronomy 210 Wedge Island 114-15 Wildflower Way 111-12 sport 74 indigenous culture 56, weights 258 wildlife 13, 19 Staircase to the Moon 210 83, 113, 162, 176, 179, West Cape Howe National wildife parks, see zoos Steep Point 29 209-10, 217, 223 Park 149 wildlife reserves 145, Stirling Range National Margaret River 127 West Coast Blues ’n’ Roots 216, see also nature Park 157-9, 158, 159 motorcycle 152 Festival 21 reserves

INDEX Stokes National Park 163-4 Perth 56-7 West Coast Eagles 231 William Bay National Park stromatolites 115, 176, 177 sea lion 117 Western Australian 146, 5 Museum – Maritime Sunset Coast 113-14 wildlife 190 Wilyabrup 130-1 79 S-Z surfing 12, 17-18, 21, 31, 33, train travel 266, 271 windsurfing 12, 17-18, 20 Western Australian 133, 12 travel to/from Perth & Geraldton 170 Museum – Perth 50-1 Cape Range National West Coast Australia Margaret River 135 Western Australian Park 195 265-6 Perth 55 airlines 265-6 Museum – Shipwreck Geraldton 170 Galleries 79, 233 wine 19, 31, 241-4 airports 265 Gnaraloo Bay 182 Western Desert Albany 151 travel within Perth & West Gnaraloo Station 182 painting 251 Denmark 146, 147 Coast Australia 266-71 Kalbarri 173 whale sharks 9, 38, 44, 186, Geographe Bay 120 truffles 17, 139 Lancelin 113 188, 190, 194, 8, see Margaret River 9 Tuart Forest National Perth 55 also sharks Mt Barker 156 Park 123 Yallingup 128 whale watching 33, 37 Pemberton 139-40 Turquoise Coast 114-17 Albany 151 tours 127 Swan River 47, 51, 25 turtles 54, 172, 190, 192, Cape Arid National Swan Valley 104-6, 243 194, 201 wineries 9, 31 Park 164 swimming, see beaches TV 258 Winton, Tim 152 Dunsborough 125 Two Peoples Bay 155 Wolfe Creek 28 Fremantle 83 women travellers 263 T Gnarraloo Bay 182 Wongan Hills 112 Tanami Road 28 V Kalbarri 173 Wooleen Station telephone services 14, vacations 258, 259 Ningaloo Marine Park 175 261-2 vaccinations 256 194 work 263-4 Terrace Hotel, The 16, 58 viral encephalitis 257 Perth 55 WWI 237 time 14 visas 14, 262-3 Whale World Museum WWII 238 toilets 262 154 Wyndham 221, 225 Tom Price 198 whaling 152, 232 Toodyay 109-10 W wildflowers 111-12, 115, 248 walking, see bushwalking Torndirrup National Park Alexander Morrison Y 154-5, 37 Walpole 145-6 National Park 115 Yallingup 127-30 tourist information 262 Walpole-Nornalup National Badgingarra National Yanchep 113 tours 270-1, see also Park 12, 145, 12 Park 115 Yarliyil Gallery 16 cruises, dolphin waterfalls 103, 218, 219, Fitzgerald River National York 107-8 watching, whale 220, 221, 222 Park 160 watching Wave Rock 101, 102 Kalbarri 173 4WD 140, 145, 177, 186, weather 14, 20-2, see also 115 Z 190, 224 individual locations zoos 42, 54-5, 105, 120, 154

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 272

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Steve Waters Thanks to Karen from RACWA for not hang- Many thanks to the travellers who used the ing up, Mick for the tow, Leonie and Nev for last edition and wrote to us with helpful beer and watermelons, Dave and Thuman of hints, useful advice and interesting anec- Djarindjin for the sand rescue, Travis for the dotes: drive shaft, John in the Subie for the WD40, Roger Bailye, Christian Cantos, Jane Coffey, Colleen and Karen for dinner and great con- Lena Lise Ibsen, Paul Joyce, Karen Mein, John versation, Trace and Heath, Brodie, Abbidene, O’Connor, John O’Gorman Meika and Kaeghan for everything, Roz, Megan and Batty for caretaking, Friz and Ian for putting up with me, and the Bung-Bung crew AUTHOR THANKS for, well, Bung-Bung! Brett Atkinson Huge thanks to the keen and professional ACKNOWLEDGMENTS staff at WA’s visitor centres who smoothed the Cover photograph: Camel caravan, Broome, way for information gathering, allowing me to George Steinmetz/Corbis focus on the vital task of taste testing the craft breweries of Margaret River. In Perth, thanks to Amanda Keenan for the pre-trip hit list. Special thanks to my fellow scribe Steve Waters, and also to the LP in-house team, especially Mary- anne Netto for her support. Final thanks to Car- ol for holding the fort back home in Auckland. 273

THIS BOOK Commissioning Editor Managing Layout Maryanne Netto Designer Chris Girdler This is the 7th edition of Coordinating Editors Assisting Cartographers Lonely Planet’s Perth & West Victoria Harrison, Sarah Valeska Cañas, Csanad Coast Australia guidebook. Koel Csutoros, Xavier Di Toro Brett Atkinson was the Coordinating Assisting Layout BEHIND THE SCENES coordinating author, joined Cartographer Peter Designer Mazzy Prinsep by coauthor Steve Waters. Shields Assisting Editors Susie Rebecca Chau contributed Ashworth, Trent Holden the Boomtown: Mining & the Coordinating Layout Environment essay. Michael Designer Kerrianne Cover Research Naomi Cathcart wrote the History Southway Parker chapter, with additions and Managing Editor Barbara Internal Image Research updates by Brett Atkinson. Delissen Aude Vauconsant The previous edition was Senior Editors Andi written by Peter Dragicevich, Jones, Martine Power Thanks to Ryan Evans, Steve Waters and Rebecca Managing Larissa Frost, Mark Griffiths, Chau. This guidebook was Cartographers Corey Genesys India, Jouve commissioned in Lonely Hutchison, Diana Von India, Trent Paton, Kirsten Planet’s Melbourne office, Holdt Rawlings, Raphael Richards, and produced by the Gerard Walker following:

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