recce report

1 19 April culinary processes including huge vats / urns of gloop that is on the way to becoming soya sauce and spicy pickle, and a visit to an out of town food Over cast and 32degree C today. Pleasant. hall, our day was complete. The Rally will start at the Chengdu Hotel Shangri- La, one of an international hotel chain. The hotel has all the necessary facilities in the rooms, several Things to do Chengdu bars, places to eat, business centre and spa. Secure If you have time in Chengdu to venture out alone underground parking will be allocated for the rally then do make a trip to The Peoples Park. It’s not and there are petrol stations nearby. really about the very lovely gardens but more of Just over the road is an area called Bar-Street for the people who you will find in distinct areas of those who want to venture out after dinner, it’s a very the park, one for ladies to exercise together using pleasant walk. dance, one for elderly musicians and area known as couples corner. This is where generally young ladies The city of 16 million people is vast, incorporating but sometimes men write their cvs and advertise for high-rise blocks that go on for miles and an a spouse on a sheet of A4. They even say which impressive main square with one of the few profession they would prefer to meet and there is a remaining statues of Chairman Mao. There are not definite feeling of panic from them and their parents many historic buildings but the remaining few can be when they reach the ripe old age of 30. Once the easily found in the parks. interested party has made contact the parents of the love match meet up to make sure they approve. We On the road we found that traffic is not as disciplined weren’t told how often a positive match is made. as in Europe but it all flows pretty well with the liberal use of horns. People will switch lanes and The park is also used by hundreds of grandparents join from a side roads without giving way if they on daily childcare duties and is very social with see a gap which does take a little getting used to. wonderful tea houses where you have a large flask Generally roads are immaculately maintained with and stay as long as you like. The park also had a plenty of room, traffic not too fast with highways and significant statue marking the oler of Chengdu in trains overhead on huge concrete structures. If you the downfall of the royals and change in culture do venture out with your car then parking is available revolution. on the streets. Pandas of cause are synonymous with this region Sichuan regional food is world famous for the liberal and there will be an opportunity to visit the research use of herbs and the very potent Sichuan pepper. centre. The Panda Research Centre is excellent The food is varied and good quality. You will have the but so very busy so get there early. The City tours opportunity to choose your own venue and the menus including the Anshan Bridge which impressed have fantastic items including frogs and snakes, goose Marco Polo back in 13th Century and is very close web and chicken feet, rabbit heads, spicy dishes and to the time honoured Hejiang Pavilion Chengdu IFS traditional hotpots. Sweet, sour, bitter, spicy and salty luxury shopping experience Lan Kwai Fong, a trendy you will find it all and often on one plate! Chengdu expat district with great shops and wonderful was voted as a Unesco city of gastronomy 2011. restaurants With a quick visit to the Museum of Gastronomy, In Chengdu near the hotel you can also find the where we were shown the history of the regional usual range of international brands so don’t panic if you need to do a little last minute shopping. 2 April 20 Chengdu 28 degrees and & cloudy with high humidity. First thing this morning looking out of my room on 22 floor, it was impossible to see the streets or city through fog/ smog. Today we visited a local hospital to have a health check prior to applying for our Chinese Driving Permits (CDP). This really was a just an eye test so don’t forget your glasses. It seemed a lot of fuss but it is essential so just remain patient. Kim was gone much longer and had a hearing test of sorts. Our guides will be there to help with translation. CDP were made for us at the Police Station about 40 minutes drive from the hotel. Again just a process and more patience required. For this you simply need your normal driving license. You do not need photos either as the authorities will already have them.

April 21 Nepal earthquake in 2015), we will follow G318 for a Chengdu - Ya’An - Yajiang considerable time. Depart from Chengdu at 7am There is more traffic on G318 with the occasional Arrival at Yajiang at 16:00 lorry slowing down the traffic. The road runs between Heading for the Hills. Raining but warm. the mountain and Dadu River and is strategic for Leaving Chengdu this morning was very easy and commerce and military alike. The mountains grow we simple took the expressway for 230 km out of loquat fruit, mulberries, cherries and tea. Chengdu towards Kangding. This is an excellent road with mountains in the distance and very little Around noon we were climbing our first mountain traffic. After 20 minutes the countryside appears pass (Zheduo 4298m – meaning zigzag). The pass has and we started to leave suburbs behind but it is a chortens and prayer flags by the thousands and we good hour before you leave the Chengdu region. can see Gongga Mountain - 7556m and a group of The Schwan region is predominantly agricultural and 6000m+ mountains. Next we descend and are actually produces oranges, pork and rape seed oil among on the plateau of Tibet. There are herds of small Yak others all for Chinese domestic market. and their calves as well as a few ponies some with ribbons in their tails for decoration in the open valley Motor Way services are clearly marked and have dotted with Tibetan style houses and white stupas. shops for snacks & coffee and clean loos. Yajiang is a Tibetan town built on the narrow area As you would expect the geography changes and between mountains and Yalong River. The streets have the hills start to appear. Green spring growth and a lot of shops of all sorts and small eateries. Houses terraces of tea accompanied by brighter weather. are built on mountain slopes. There is a small Tibetan We were now climbing slowly and saw the Tibetan monastery on top of the hill where 6 monks live and signage appear alongside the Chinese. Prayer flags can be visited if you want to stretch your legs before and Tibetan style houses become more common some square dancing after dinner in the town square. and trees give way to lower shrub growth. After the large suspension bridge the flora changes and you enter the cherry growing region. We got off the expressway in Luding where we officially entered the Tibetan regions (here in Sichuan, we are in Ganzi Tibetan Autonomous Region, which borders with just after the town of Batang). It is from Luding that we start our journey on G318, ’s longest National Highway (5476KM) running from Shanghai to the old Zhangmu Pass on the China/Nepal border (abandoned after the

3 April 22 April 26 Yajiang - Batang Bome (Pome) - Linzhi Depart from Yajiang at 8:00 Depart Bome at 7:55 Arrival at Batang 13:20 Arrival in Linzhi at around 14:30 Fresh bright morning 4 degrees. Soon after we left Yajiang Town, we started to climb up the mountain road, very little traffic and 18 We leave the town this morning with the hairpins later we were at the top of the mountain at snowcapped mountains straight ahead. 4190m. We drove at altitudes over 4000m most of the morning, stopping to sample the wares for the There are stations across the road with cameras and store holders selling dried fruits, air-dried yak meat you may well see the locals and lorries parked up. and other hard to identify items. This is because they are waiting for their allotted time which is worked out on average speed and if Continuing on we reached Karzila Pass at 4430m. they get there two early they will be fined. The fine increases with each excessive mile. We entered Litang County, one of the highest settlements in East Tibet at 4014m. Litang Chode, Take time this morning to turn off Trashigan village founded in 1580 by the Third Dalai Lama, is one for a cuppa tea at family hotel ( 10 Yuan pp)and of the largest temples outside Tibet Autonomous visit prayer flags. Listen out for the skylarks. There is Region. We drove through a large village called plenty of room to park in center of the village. You Dela Village with beautiful Tibetan houses along can’t drive up to the prayer flags so, park up and both sides of the road. potter back slowly. There was some snow on the road and the Bome is nick named Little Switzerland because of the temperature was around 0C on the top, then we scenery. Mountain sides covered in pine trees and slowly descened into Batang and our destination ( the Parlong Tsangpo River running along the valley the most glamorous garage in China) at 13:20. floor and through the town. The town streets are wide and lined with shops and restaurants. Owing to it lower altitude at 2700m, the climate is mild and air is moist, forests more subtropical. The area is one of the main wheat, barley and rapeseeds producers of Tibet. It is now too high to grow rice. In 1900 a landslide created a lake in April 2000 another huge landslide blocked more of the river and levels rose. After 62 days it breached the walls and 3 Billion litres of water washed down and destroyed houses and bridges as well as 2.5 million homes in neighboring India. Driving is much slower and reflects the way of life at altitude, if you can’t do it today there is always tomorrow.

4 It is a scenic drive today as we first followed Parlong After lunch we ascend up through the Sea of Forest Tsangpo River, driving through valleys and viewing to 4565m towards Linzhi so please if you get out of snow-capped mountains afar. We saw the regional your vehicles take it slow. Stunning views continue black pigs and their tiny piglets, calves and foals and just get better. Forest gives way to low shrubs. along the roadside - take care! All traffic will stop and It was gently snowing at the pass and some cloud or Swerve. It was amazing the amount of animals on cover. Do take care on ascent and descent as some the road and so few accidents. barriers are missing. This is also a route that many pilgrims make and you We are back down to a comfortable level quickly will see them on their seemingly impossible task. Pilgrims may have a support vehicle which you will Before reaching Linzhi we turned south towards Milin recognize as they normally have two large prayer where our rally hotel is located by Yarlong Tsangpo flags on them but the vehicle may be anything from River – the upper stream of Brahmaputra River in small van to large wheel barrow. The family takes India. The afternoon temperature was 20 degrees. turns in who does the prostration and for the elder Our rally hotel tonight is reminiscent of grand members they will do this even at risk of death. Tibetan palaces and incorporates Chinese “in the course of prostrating themselves all the way architectural flourishes and modern luxuries. The from their local villages to , the most magnetic hotel was very opulent with a Sky Bar at level 8 of Tibet’s Pilgrimages places. Often elected by where you can see the ridge of the mountains on village communities to undertake the pilgrimage, the south of the hotel which marks the China - India their journey may take several years to complete. border and is the reason why you are not allowed to They may travel in a group, accompanied by an venture off the given route at all in this area. assistant who will arrange food and shelter on their behalf. On reaching the goal of their pilgrimage, the The local airport is closed in the afternoons due to sacred image of Jowo Rinpoche in Lhasa Jokhang afternoon winds and so do be prepared for these. Temple, they will make offerings and then return We had a long delay on check-in at this hotel so home by motor vehicle.” please do read the notes on Hotel Check-in. Lunch stop today is at Lulong just off the route in a beautiful sunny Tibetan Restaurant whose owner is a famous Tibetan singer. Parking is just on the road side but don’t worry it is not busy.

5 April 27 along the valley were shattered by the huge amount Linzhi to Tsetang of construction and power supply required for the Depart from Linzhi at 8:00 new Linzhi to Lhasa Railway train line. Perhaps over Arrival at Tsetang at 17:40 time these scars will be reclaimed by Mother Nature. Start at 4 degrees no wind. Stop at Zangmu view point if you fancy a quick The mountains this morning were crisp and clear stretch of your legs and a photo. We saw wagtails, against a pale blue ski with a few low clouds that magpies, hoopo and small swift like birds. had a tinge if pink. Looks like it is going to be a Lunch today was in Langxian where you will find fuel wonderful day. easily as you enter the town. Turn off the street to Jim Young Hotel to park and we will guide you to Following the valley floor with beautiful mountain views traditional Tibet lunch of curried beef and potatoes. on the let and right. I have to admit litter is a problem in places. We are 2 weeks too late for the peach Shortly after our lunch we come to the birthplace blossom to be at its best but you will still see trees in of the Thirteenth Dalai Lama (1876-1933) at blossom but with their leaves just coming through. Trongkhang. Although this house was rebuilt after the and most of the rooms are Much more rural road compared to yesterday with empty, it is still worth your time to visit. lots of villages, not quite the Cotswolds though! Much less traffic than the highway with lovely Blue skies and 16 degrees. scenery. After about an hour and a half we are in a semi nomadic area where the people take their Gyaca is quite a large town that we travel through cattle into the mountains for 3 or 4 months then this afternoon in the region known for barley, apricot return back here for winter. and prized caterpillar fungus.

Town centre of Wolong has a large military presence. We drive on to Tsetang, one of Tibet’s largest Just after this on the right you can see up on the hill cities with a population of 1.2 million, and the area the Lasa-Linzhi train track being built. It almost looks around Tsetang is regarded as the cradle of Tibetan like a damn. The landscape is arid with bright green civilization. trees and later sand dunes where the afternoon wind has moved the sand up the valley. The rally hotel tonight is Tibetan style with nice rooms, sunny restaurant, and heating with a large car Prayer flags are more for the Bon religion and not so park area in front of the hotel building. The town is much the Buddhists here. clean and has good shops to top up on supplies so take a slow walk around. This morning my thoughts are that the beautiful romantic idea of following the Yarlong Tsangpo River

6 April 28 Tsetang to Lhasa Depart from Tsetang at 10:00 Arrive in Lhasa at Clear blue skies and we are heading off to the Sangy monastery today. It’s significance is that it was the first Buddhist monastery in Tibet. It is also off the beaten track in the direction of Lhasa. Thought for the day. Very strange travelling in a car with a driver from the police force and all conversations and actions recorded, stopping at police check points along the route on our way to Lhasa Rest Days one on the most revered holy places on earth. Day 1 Stunning views all around and a little adventure Today we headed to Potala Palace which is actually to the Samye Monestary which is in a truly lovely an incredible sight to see. You have to ask your setting. Samye is Tibet’s first monastery built guides to get you the entry ticket that cost 200 yuan between 775-779, although “the original buildings and the head to the entry gate early. Tickets are have been damaged by civil war (11th century), fires allocated with passport numbers on them which will (mid 17th century and 1826), earthquakes (1816) and be checked on entry. We the visitors cannot dictate cultural revolution (1960s), the Tibetans have always any times. endeavoured to rebuild and enhance the complex We queued for an hour before even getting into the after each round of destruction.” It is free from first gate. Depending on your ticket there will be tourists and well worth a visit. a time by which you need to proceed through the No photos inside and travel clockwise. second gate. If you’re late at this point you will be refused entry but not refunded. After the monastery for those who have extra energy, head up the road to the Samaye Chimpu Hermitage No drinks, lotions or potions, cigarette lighters etc caves. Enjoy the incredible views but remember you allowed so perhaps just take your passport and are at 4067m high so go slowly. It may not look like camera with you. many steps but I have to say the air felt thin and the The palace itself is made up of chamber after stairs numerous. We didn’t go past the first set of chamber with deities and religious icons on display. buildings which make up the Chimpu Utse Nunnery It is a little dark and musty at times but I found it but you can see small buildings marking the entrance totally fascinating. There is no light or time to read to the Caves where people spend years meditating. the guide book so I grabbed a coffee afterwards in a These will take a good two hours to reach. We were local café and had a quick read. You are only allowed lucky however as a special ceremony was taking 1 hour in the main building and your tour guide has to place in the nunnery with small and large trumpets, register your leaving. If you make him late he will be chanting, mumbles and bells. refused tickets next time he wishes to escort a group. Lunchtime temp is 12 degrees and sunny. Please note. Lhasa is 3700m and you have an This afternoon we took the road that at times runs additional 150m climb to the palace. Once in the parallel to the new road, then hopped on the palace the stairs become more like ladders but as beautifully surfaced highway to Lhasa, about 2 hours long as you go slowly and stop when you need to from the monastery. We were lucky enough to see an catch your breath all will be fine and I recommend eagle flying this afternoon so keep your eyes peeled. the whole group take the opportunity to see some of Vultures only fly in the mornings due to oxygen the palace. demand. After lunch we headed to the Dalai Lama’s Summer We all think todays scenery has made up for Palace and this was more comprehensible and is set yesterday’s disappointment. in a lovely park where people bring their families for picnics. This is actually a short walk from the Rally Entering Lhasa is not romantic at all. Large busy hotel, no queues or entry fees here. This is where Police check point, China Bank, China post, Petrol he escaped from in his early twenties never to return. China, China Mobile, China everything…….. Note: Near the rally hotel are a range of garages We drove through the new town to the Hotel where and tyre shops, all very handy but you will need a we were given a lovely Tibetan welcome and stayed guide with you so don’t just head off ready to try for two nights enjoying the luxury and comfort. your hand at sign language. 7 Day 2 Our drive today starts with us heading towards the airport but then we continue south west towards One our second day in Lhasa we headed to the Jianxi town. Don’t panic we don’t climb the first Jokhang temple (Temple of the Lord) also known as range of mountains you see today, instead we the Qoikang Monastery and is the spiritual heart of continue to follow the banks of the Pramabutra and Lhasa. This is situated in the old town and even Kim it is beautiful. Take time to get that photo if you can would agree it was totally amazing. Filled to the brim decide where as it is a stunning drive. with icons, incense smoke and people. It is home to the most revered icon in Tibet and it felt like being on The road book will tell you about speed cameras and a film set. It is recognized as part of the UNESCO lots more but today we saw hidden police vehicles world heritage site of the Potala Palace. with hand held radars so do be warned Slow it is - Enjoy the pace. Fines are proportional to percentage While you’re visiting Jokhang then spare a little time over Limit and can be 10,000 yuan. to join the Tibetans and walk around the temple which takes 15 minutes before heading off to Our first pass today is at 4700m where we have explore the old town down the streets that radiate our first sight of Yamdrok Yutso Lake 4000m. One from the Jokhang temple it is worth every step. You of three sacred lakes in Tibet. Yamdrok is shaped can pop into art shops to purchase a tanker or prayer like a fan coral, with many bays and inlets on its wheel and a raft of local crafts. Get a local brew of mountainous shores. It is visited by pilgrims all year sweet tea or a bowl of noodles or just enjoy people long. It is said that should its waters dry, Tibet will watching as they do their Kora before you head back no longer be habitable. We follow the northern to the hotel. lakeshore with stops to admire the blue-green lake, until our lunch stop at Nakartse County (4475m), The rally hotel does have two lovely shops full of which has for centuries been a vital trading link shiny items but just remember that the beautiful between Lhasa and Bhutan, Sikkim, Nepal and white Jade, real or not, is not found in Tibet. West Tibet. It would make sense to do half day sightseeing and There is an annual cycling race around this lake for then relax for the rest of the time so you have not crazy people. Stop at one of the local transport cafes worn yourself out before we climb high in west Tibet. and you may see the typical Tibetan dog, big hairy Perhaps even stock up in local supermarket for thing. Some people ask for 10 Yuan for a photo of recognisable items you would like to have over the their dog and I have to say I think it is a little sad. next 11 days. I don’t think the dogs like it much and didn’t look happy. In comparison the yaks by the lake have different coloured silks around there necks and hung from their withers to show which family owns them. Temp at 2:30 is 6 but very sunny fab morning and now fab afternoon. Soon after our lunch stop we climb again to Khari La Glacier (5045m) where they seem to charge you for getting out of your car to take a photo so do be warned. The glacier is beautiful and seems to spill towards the road. If you sit quietly you will see small hamster like animals scurrying around on the ground. We continued our descent to the historic town of Gyantse, a small village and home to the Kumbum Monastery and Pelkhor Chode Temple. Gyantse Dzong – a fortress, dominates the city’s skyline was built in the 14th and 15th century, it once served as the city’s administrative and government center. May 1st The drive this afternoon was totally beautiful with Lhasa-Gyantse-Shigatse the road this afternoon as straight as the road this Depart from Lhasa at 9:40 morning was wiggly! Arrival at Shigatse at 18:00 Tonight’s hotel is reasonable. Make the most of the Today there was a surprise, this morning was bright facilities as they now start to run thin as we head sunshine but overnight snow had covered the arid west. In your room you will find oxygen available mountains surrounding the town and light cloud is which come on automatically from 9 till 11pm but sitting at the top of them. It was 3 degrees at 9am. please note if you do use more than the two hours

8 and have it on overnight you may feel the altitude Our lunch is at New Tingri opposite the main fuel even more in the morning when no oxygen. station. There are several restaurants and parking space. The area of Gyantse is an important and prosperous farming region of Tibet, where the best quality of We set off to the Everest BC after lunch. There is barley and rapeseeds are produced. Shigatse is the a check point and a ticket office before we enter second largest city in Tibet with a railway link with Chomolungma Nature Preserve. Road is very good Lhasa. Next door to the hotel you will not only find but twisty. At Kya Wu La Pass (Pang La) 5200m, a Burger King but a shopping centre for any supplies we can see the Himalayan range including 4 above needed. 8000m: Makalu (8463m, 5th highest), Lhotse (8516m, 4th highest), Everest (8848m), and Cho Oyu Gyanste is also the seat and residence of the (8201m, 6th highest). Panchen Lamas. Our hotel is the Everest Hotel. There is good car parking, around 100 rooms. There is air-conditioned May 2 heating, bathrooms are worn down. Note: we need Shigatse – New Tingri to turn on the air-conditioning in each room as soon – Everest BC – New Tingri as we arrive. Hot water is provided after 7pm before 8am. The heating in the dining hall needs to be Depart from Shigatse at 8:00 turned on as soon as we arrive too. There is a small Arrival at New Tingri at 12:30 room on the other side of the lobby, which we may We are driving on high altitude today mostly over use to have a film night. 4000m. Our first mountain pass is Tso La at 4530m, then Gyatso La Pass at 5240m before we get to the viewing platform of your first sight of Mt. Everest. May 3 The mountains are high and dry but there are many New Tingri – Saga villages and nomads with goats, sheep and yaks. It is Depart from New Tingri at 8:00 their time for preparing the fields for the spring and Arrival at Saga at 14:00 many farmers are busy doing just this. Frosty but crystal clear morning and off we go. At 224km around noon, there is a village called Sodahs my driver has had a little instruction from me Jiabu (at milestone 5127km), which is by the side of on breaking points at corners and the law of inertia the road. There are around 100 residents, but only and so now we remain on our side of the road, old people and children are home when the adults definite bonus when oncoming traffic appears, he are out working in the fields. You can visit the village saves energy and is not wrestling the Land Cruiser for 20 mins or so. like a tiger. Result!

9 Fairly short day because of the amazing road so take and construction lorries everywhere, just not great. time to visit the hots springs, villages, photo shoots It is meant to be the last town with 24 hour electric etc. It is not restrictive like Lhasa and so you can stop but when we got to our hotel no electric for 2 hours. here and there. Tonight at a very grubby restaurant Kim found a suitable travel companion that we named fire water. We are A beautiful drive though very dry area which every sleeping at 4400m tonight. The Hotel is actually not now and then has Tibetan style dew ponds. The water too bad, good parking and reception area just very cold for this area comes from the snow melt. The houses and no power. Most hotels, restaurants & shops have are painted dark red and black and this shows the their own generators so they are ready and prepared. Saga tribe as do the paintings of moons on doors Villages have water piped from the mountain to a central point in the village for everyone to share. Fish are found in the river but people don’t eat them. Near the villages there are sacred places for sky burials, very few water or earth burials take place now. There is a problem in that the environment has not been able to support the vultures and so they may have to resort to more cremations. Amazing view of Oomlongchangar (Everest) this morning totally beautiful set against a clear blue sky. We stopped twice to admire the view. As we head on we see ruins of houses and towns May 4 & 5 that now just look like giant termite mounds. We also Saga - Coqen - Yagra saw couples of black neck cranes wading through the These three days were across central Tibet and shallows so keep your eyes peeled for these beauties done as the normal recce process. The outcome as well as small herds of wild asses. Now we seem to unfortunately was that we won’t be able to; be leaving behind some of the many power lines and the plateau is opening up. • Get the cars through without breaking them and even the locals have problems with the conditions of Mid-morning you will have the mountain the tracks which are real car breakers. We stopped Shishapangma which looks like a horizontal face. Its to see if we could assist a group of locals trying to summit is 8027m and is completely inside China’s move their 4x4 that had got stuck but we weren’t territory. Next is the bright turquoise Pai Ku Lake able to help. When they breakdown because of the which is the largest inland lake of Himalayas and is remoteness and distances to any help or work shop is at 4600m. The view is totally lovely. The lake is fed measured in days and not km they often abandon their by the mountain Shishapnagnu, half fresh water half highly prized vehicles. salt water with lots of fish. We are driving some of its south side shoreline and it is worth a stop or drive • The altitude and remoteness pose a problem for down to the actual shore to stretch your legs and soak anyone of the group, team or crews if they became ill. up the amazing views. There is also usually a lot of • The temperatures are not suitable for camping in any wildlife in this area including wild donkeys, wolves, comfort and there are no hostels that can manage our foxes, deer, gazelle, black-necked cranes as well as group size. yaks and sheep. • Petrol is not always available at the one petrol station We turned right towards Saga and the road was very in Yagra and this is the only petrol available for over rough gravel and hard work but they are working on it 170 km in all directions. In Tibet, due to the politics, and we understand it to be tarmacked by the time of there is no option to organize a jerry can let alone our next visit. If we had gone straight on at this point a tanker. It was very apparent that this was not an we would be heading for the pass that we will take acceptable route for the rally. to leave Tibet and enter Nepal and we can see that it actually looks OK from here. The square houses by the shores of Lake Cho Lung and surrounding area are the winter homes of the nomadic herders and are empty whilst the nomads head higher for the summer. They protect their homes in their absence by filling the windows with stones. We reached Saga which I have to say is a complete mess. Buildings being pulled down, some new work 10 May 6 water and long years of weathering has taking a toll, Yagra to Darchen to Zhada forming narrow earthen forests. Depart from Yagra at 7:00 What this really translates to is the drive up to Zhada Arrive at Zhada at 17:40 is completely spectacular with a pass of 5166m and On our way today we took the to stop at a nomad incredible and hard to describe geography/ geology. camp to admire they flock of sheep and Yak herd. Rocks of beautiful greens, golds, bronze and purples, Up here the conditions are so harsh and a couple of arranged in layers and strange shapes. It really is a the lambs were in the last throws of life and it is just wow for us all. Although the drops from the side how it is here. of the roads are not huge, for those like me it is definitely enough when there is no barrier in place Later on we did actually see a few wild Yak high on and our driver keeps overtaking, what’s the rush! hills but they were too far to photograph. Nearly five hours and 138km after our dawn start we May 7th finally left the boulders and gravel behind and returned to the tarmac main road. I have to say Zhada Day Off that this section of road had the more spectacular We left for Guge ruins an easy 20 min drive with scenery and took us up past another sacred Lake a little rough terrain on arrival. The drive in the Manasarovar to Darchen and views of Mt. Kailash morning sun was beautiful. We started to see the (6656m) and Nemo Nanyi Peak (7728m). Wide open ruins along the road but the best was still to come. valley with nomads and villages, a lot of sheep, yaks, and some black-neck cranes, birds and antelopes. We reached the deserted ancient city and were Mt. Kailash looks spectacular in the sun but not shown around the various religious temples in a small as big as I had expected. It looks like it has giant group by the caretaker and then left to look around steps heading to the sky with the peaks to the right at will. As you go higher they just keep amazing you. reminded me of Aztec and pyramid designs. I didn’t make it to the top but stopped about half way and then headed off down the valley. Note ponies and donkeys not had their babies yet! Take a walk if you don’t want to climb up the ancient We leave Darchen after lunch, start climbing slowly, city. Walk down to the cave where the beheaded going over passes over 5000m. The mountains bodies are said to remain and cross the little valley at become drier and drier and out of nowhere we bottom and back up other side to another temple. get to a military check point where we can see You can take a short cut back but it is a bit slippery the Clay Forest starting to appear in the distance. and steep. You realistically need to allow 2 hours for The clay forest in geology is known as “the Level this walk. The temple at top has an old gatekeeper Terrane Physiognomy,” formed by erosion, where and she will unlock for you. Some ancient thankas the sediment of lakes and rivers, mainly composed and boxes and piles of scriptures in silver and gold by sandstone and clay, have formed into various are inside this temple along with a religious icon of a shapes. The Level Terrane has developed upright foot print. qualities, and the valley is deep. The orogenic movement of the Himalayas has made the bottom of Take your time before returning to Zhada and enjoy the lake ascend. And the undulating earthen forest looking along the road for more ancient houses for dozens of kilometers formed by the subsiding and buildings cut into the rocks. Look to the top of 11 the hills as well to see those that would have been an important stop for many pilgrims. Most Tibetan perfectly placed in their day. One of the amazing Pilgrims will come to this area for two very important things about the lost kingdom of Guge is that all the pilgrimages; 1) to circumnavigate Lake Manarsarovar materials needed to build it in the 10th century were and visit the several monasteries around the lake, transported by elephant from India. and 2) to circumnavigate holy Mt. Kailash. When you head back to the hotel take time to visit the Tholing monastery in the centre of the town. It is May 9 in the constant state of renovation but is still worth a quick trip. Darchen to Saga Depart from Darchen at 8:45 Arrival at Saga at 17:30 May 8th Again fantastic scenery and good views of Mt. Zarda to Darchen Kailash and Nemo Nanyi snow peak while we are Depart from Zhada at 9:10 driving away. Very soon we arrive at Mayum La Pass Arrival at Darchen at 16:35 (5211m). We reach the small town of Baryang at noon and stop for a bite to eat before continuing on. First grey morning as we head back to Darchen. About 4 hours drive. Surprisingly we drive past some large sand dunes as we drive towards Drongpa. There is a small After the check point with the military equipment at the temple by the road which I thought was totally pass (5250m) there was snow on the roads for about fascinating. Traduntse is one of the border taming 150m but I’m sure all crews will be fine navigating and temples founded by Songtsen Gampo in the seventh driving this. There were a few homesteads nestled at century. The temple was established to suppress the bottom of the pass that were so basic I wonder just the mythical supine demoness that represents the how they manage to survive. Tibetan landscape. The walls inside the temple still We have already driven the road and so I won’t bear some of the newspaper from the dates of the describe what we saw. However, There are two Cultural Revolution (1966) to cover up the religious monasteries near Darchen that we can detour to visit murals along with some of the red army’s slogans shortly after we get on the main road. Tirthapuri Hot graffiti as well. Spring and Monastery are associated sacred sites with After two more passes of nearly 5000m, we come to Mt. Kailash and Lake Manarsarovar. Pilgrims typically Saga. come here after completing the Kailash pilgrimage. They bathe in pools fed by the sacred springs, then visit the cave and monastery associated with Guru Rinpoche. The Bonpo Sanctuary of Gurugyam and the cave hermitage of Yungdrung Rinchen Barwa, are major centers of the Bon religion in far-west Tibet, which was the official Tibetan religion before the introduction of Buddhism in the 7th century and one associated with the prayer flags. Also worth a detour is the far shore . Chiu Gompa (Sparrow Monastery) is built right into the cliffs beside the lake. There is an ancient shrine in a cave here dating back to the 8th Century. It is a very interesting monastery and

May 10 Saga to Jilong (Kyirong) Depart from Saga at 9:00 Arrive at Jilong at 14:00 We started today driving through a few inches of snow that had fallen over night. The roads were not a problem and then as we approached the top of the pass and entered the next valley there was absolutely no snow and bright sunshine. I’m sure all crews will be fine with this.

12 The drive took us back through wide valleys and The road is amazing Chinese engineering and makes then to the highest pass being Jakhyung La 5236m the Stelvio pass look like a parking space at Waitrose. where again the previous nights snow fall had reached. There were a few lorries laying at the side We have dropped 1000m in less than 20 mins. We of the road like ailing dinosaurs but Im not sure this weren’t able to stop to get a great photo! This is was actually due to the snow but more the effort of actually a nature reserve. Landslide has made a bit hauling their cargo up the pass. We quickly pass of a mess of the road but we just press on, patches them and continue on our merry way and then start of water not sure where from and at the bottom fairly a beautiful descent before we reach the town of quickly and can see that the border, which is the river, is Dzongka where we stopped for lunch. From here, protected by razor wire. We followed the valley to the following Kyirong Tsangpo River, we descended hugely imposing Chinese border crossing building. further into Kyirong Valley, which forms one of Tibet’s most beautiful alpine regions. Snow peaks, alpine The border crossing was totally incredible. China’s brush, forests, villages, and farms spread vertically side was a huge fortress like building, various ranked step by step. officials in immaculate uniform, process and X-ray machines. We then walked 100 yards across the The road this afternoon was lovely but we have now bridge and half way across the tarmac disappeared left the spectacular scenery of Tibet behind us as we and chaos greeted us. The Nepalese border post end the day in Kyirong. was wood panels with a corrugated tin roof where they had a quick rummage through our luggage and I have to say everyone else are tidier packers than May 11 me. Then no X-ray machine but a quick body search Jilong to the border did discover a small orange in my pocket. Depart Jilong at 7:30 am They have only opened this border crossing as an Arrive Kathmandu 20:30 international border pass for foreigners in September Our hopes of making a quick start and reaching the 2017 after the Nepalese earthquake of 2015 which border before the commercial vehicles was thwarted closed the roads to the old pass of Zhangmu. by the fact that one of the police check points a few The Nepalese lorries are all lined up and leave just km from our hotel had not opened when we arrived. enough space for the incoming lorries to squeeze Never mind, a short wait and off we go winding our past. The road is rough and has huge rocks sticking way down to the next valley floor and after only 10 out but tough luck you just have to get on with it and minutes I can feel my ears popping as we descend at keep moving. The immediate area is the remains of speed. My driver is driving very carefully, not totally the 2015 earthquake and the hillside village is now sure why as the roads are great. Perhaps he just wants beneath your feet. You now also have to go about a to deliver his cargo in good order, seems a great km along the road to the Nepal Immigration where a idea to me. Mr Lee is obviously not having the same charming chap will enter your data manually into two thought about Kim or our Nepalese agent Bijay. ledgers and wave you on your way with a broad smile.

13 Into Nepal Conclusion The tarmac was surprisingly missing for a proportion I have to say that at times it has been a challenge for of the journey to Kathmandu but this is due to many reasons. The blocking of internet sites, emails several factors. The road widening scheme that being delayed, our conversations all recorded in the is going on, the recent landslides and the volume cars, cameras everywhere in public spaces, inside of commercial traffic. This will be resolved before temples and even hotels has made it all, as Kim said, the rally comes through, when the new road in the very "big brother" and uncomfortable. bottom of the valley is opened for the commercial traffic and the road widening is complete at the end Dry air and dusty roads, cold at times and very hot of this year. at others. Hotels lacking facilities and comfort, repetition of the few Chinese dishes served up at After a coffee stop we are now lurching skywards each meal and then on top of this actually coping and the road side restaurant is called 12 Bends with the altitude. Restaurant so that gives a clue. We are in the Sherpa area. Drivers please be kind to your navigators and However, we have had the privilege of travelling use your horns. You may have time to enjoy the extensively in Tibet and seeing some truly fascinating terraced mountain sides and incredible views as you and thought provoking sights. We have enjoyed negotiate the 4 passes to Kathmandu. The amount scenery day after day that is impossible for me to of traffic on such a road is actually astounding. describe. We are some of the very few tourists who have left Tibet via the road crossing over the We stopped in a small town for a snack and then off Himalayas and finally we had the pleasure of working again. Dropping down through smallholdings where with wonderful people on the team. rice, sweet corn, potatoes, banana palms, tomatoes, mango & lychee are growing. A really charming We have accomplished what we set out to do. We drive punctuated by a Tata lorry or three. now have the Trans-Himalayan Adventure 2019 rally route agreed and surveyed, the timetable and dates Eventually we are climbing the grid locked hill into of travel agreed and we are now confident that we Kathmandu and it is utter chaos but our hotel is can support the participating crews throughout the wonderful and we head straight to the bar for a very event. well earned beer. This rally is not for everyone but for those with a sense of adventure it really is remarkable. This Katmandu to Pokara to Lumbini to journey will stay with me for a very long time. Gorakpur to Varanassi LIZ WENMAN The roads were truly horrendous car breakers and absolutely no pleasure to drive. The days were very long because of the road conditions and to be honest the sights at the destinations were not enough to warrant this painful experience and again the support team would have a very difficult if not impossible job in these conditions. The temperatures increased as we went onto the plains of India and on the last day they were 39 degrees which was unpleasant and not an option to travel unless in an air-conditioned vehicle.

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