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NewcastleGateshead WALKING GUIDE

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www.NewcastleGateshead.com CONTENTS GRAINGER TOWN (I) 4 GRAINGER TOWN (2) 6 NEWCASTLE CENTRAL STATION 8 CASTLE & QUAYS 12 UNIVERSITY QUARTER 14 16 18 THE VALLEY 20 FURTHER INFORMATION 22

Welcome to the first NewcastleGateshead Walking Guide. This guide is perfect for visitors to NewcastleGateshead as you can explore the city on foot taking in the best sights, attractions, buildings and monuments. It’s also great for locals, who want to discover more about the place where they live.

Each of the seven walks are easy to follow: there’s a map to help guide you around the route, a description and some interesting facts and historical information about the locations you will see along the way.

The walks start and end at a Metro station, so they are always easy to get to and find. See page 22 for information on the best Metro tickets to buy and also sources of further information on NewcastleGateshead.

NewcastleGateshead’s world-class festivals and events programme is funded by:

Published by NewcastleGateshead Initiative, 4th Floor, Central Square South, Orchard Street, Newcastle NE1 3AZ T: +44 (0)191 243 8800 F: +44 (0)191 222 1282 E: [email protected]

www.NewcastleGateshead.com 3 GRAINGER TOWN (I) GRAINGER TOWN (1)

5. Co-op building (which originally right hand side. In housed the Co-operative Wholesale the open courtyard movement), a great example of the Art of the centre are the Deco style, popular in the 1920s and remains of a corner 1930s. Pop into the North or South tower of a Roman and take a look at the stairwells with the milecastle. The Arts little human figures carrying the Centre is also a handrails, another superb Art Deco great place to pick touch. Adjoining the Co-op is up a gift and houses 6. The Gate, home to a plethora of a gallery and a swish bars and restaurants. You’ll notice potter’s studio. the glass and steel ‘Ellipsis Continue down the Eclipses’ by Danny Lane on the corner road to see the outside. Between The Gate and Tiger graceful Tiger (opposite), head down beneath the 10. Assembly glass pedestrian bridge (it has The Gate Rooms (built in written on it) and turn right onto 1774) on the left, and Grey’s Monument Dispensary Lane which will bring you to a little further, 7. Blackfriars and a real step back in 11 . St. John's Church on the Wooden mice, Dominican friars, Marks & Spencer's time. The first thing you'll notice is the corner of Grainger Street. Inside the noise. There is none. This little haven is church are a range of interesting Penny Bazaar, and an Earl. one of Newcastle's hidden gems and, features including a commemoration to befitting the quiet air, was once home to Richard Grainger himself. Also pay Starting point: Dominican friars who arrived here in careful attention to the wooden / Grey Street 1239. The church that was once here was choirstalls in the north aisle and see if Length of walk: 1.5 - 2 hours destroyed during Henry VIII's Dissolution you can spot the little wooden mice When it comes to grandiose views, Earl of the Monasteries, but its outline is still which were carved by the Yorkshire Grey - former Northumberland MP and visible today. The building the friars used craftsman Robert “mousey” Thompson, Prime Minister - has got it spot on. He's as their eating area is now an award- who developed that particular trademark the fellow perched atop 1. Grey's winning bistro/restaurant, Blackfriars, as an indication that he and his fellow Monument, casting his gaze down the which also has tables outside on the craftsmen were “as poor as church street which he gave his name to. Grey greenery, so you can grab a bite to eat in mice”. Street (voted the most beautiful in the the tranquil air of this country by the listeners of Radio 4 and delightful square. Alternatively bring Back out and onto Grainger Street the Commission for Architecture and the your own sandwiches for a picnic. and again, your chance to take in the Built Environment CABE) is indeed a magnificence of Grainger Town’s magnificent sight and the work of Central Arcade Following through a little archway buildings as you head back towards visionary property developer Richard stage), you'll discover 2. Brunswick towards the top end of Blackfriars Grey's Monument. Along the way, be sure Grainger (B.1797). Starting in 1834, Methodist Chapel, one of the (straight ahead from where you entered to stop off at the 12. Grainger Grainger set about transforming earliest of its type in North East . it), takes you onto Stowell Street, home Market, the covered market on your Newcastle, with his classically designed Back onto Blackett Street, turn right, and to Newcastle's Chinatown. You'll be left hand side. Thought to be designed streets all part of his “City of Palaces” continue along and you'll find 3. Old greeted by a wonderful array of aromas by John Dobson - who worked closely blueprint. Grey’s Monument itself is Eldon Square on your right. This informing you that you've reached the with Grainger - the market contains regarded by many as the centre of houses the city’s war memorial: a bronze best Chinese restaurants in town! Turn many shops which have been in the modern Newcastle and was erected in statue of St. George - the patron saint of left and at the end of Stowell street same family for generations, and is still 1838 to commemorate Earl Grey's the Northumberland Fusiliers - slaying a you'll see the West Walls, the longest home to one of the original Marks and achievements in passing the Great dragon. Continue along Blackett street, section of the original town walls - built Spencer's Penny Bazaars (built in 1895, Reform Bill of 1832. and under the bridge, and you'll see between 1280-1283 to protect the city - with its shop front being the smallest, Behind the Earl is Blackett Street and the 4. St. Andrew's Church, on still surviving today. Following the wall and oldest, still surviving today.) down the slope will lead you onto Blackfriars Emerson Chambers Newgate Street. Structurally the building building, a fine contains more 12th century work than Westgate Road, where you'll see Finally, just before Grey's Monument example of the Art any other in the area making it “the 8. The Journal Tyne Theatre and Monument Metro station, you'll Nouveau style. If you oldest church of this town” and to the (opened in 1867), one of the most see the beautifully tiled Edwardian cut down between rear of it you can see a short stretch of important theatres in the country, 13. Central Arcade (1906) on your this building and the the medieval town wall (more of which, housing its original 19th century stage right hand side. This is another of Newcastle United later). machinery. Grainger's creations and the perfect way clubshop (a black Continue down Westgate Road, over to end your stroll through Newcastle's and white scarf is Continue along Newgate Street and you Clayton Street, and you'll reach the “golden heart”. optional at this cannot miss the arresting façade of the 9. Newcastle Arts Centre on the

4 | WALKING GUIDE www.NewcastleGateshead.com 5 GRAINGER TOWN (2) GRAINGER TOWN (2)

later); Harry Hotspur (14th century soldier and son of the first Earl of Northumberland); Sir John Marlay (Newcastle's Mayor during the Civil War period); and Roger Thornton (Newcastle's 15th century “Dick Whittington”). Head back down Northumberland Street and turn left at Vision Express to see the 5. straight ahead. The Laing celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2004. When you've availed yourself of the gallery's wonderful collection and emerge from the glass fronted entrance/exit, you'll find the next attraction beneath your feet. This is the 6. Blue Carpet, a tiled area completed in 2002 by artist, Thomas Heatherwick and winner of Vampire Rabbit several arts' awards. John Betjeman sings praise, a Blue Carpet, Leave Blue Carpet Square (with the century, where the Geordie anthem, “The The Blaydon Races, and the Vampire Rabbit. gallery on your right hand side) and turn Blaydon Races”, was first sung). Opposite left, head towards the next junction and High Bridge, and a little uphill, head turn right onto Market Street. Walk along down Pudding Chare until you reach the Starting point: 9. Revolution bar (the grand Monument Metro station / Grey Street here and turn left onto Pilgrim Street which will bring you to the narrow interior reflecting its former history as a Length of walk: 1.5 - 2 hours opening of High Bridge, one of the oldest bank) on the corner. Continue along Many have fallen in love with Grey Street, streets in Newcastle, and home to some Collingwood Street and you'll come to none more so than the former poet lovely boutiques and independent 10. St. Nicholas' Cathedral. The laureate, Sir John Betjeman, who once retailers. Heading down this street elegant Lantern Tower (1448) is commented: “I shall never forget seeing (crossing over Grey Street which particularly ornate and the cathedral's it to perfection, traffic-less on a misty intersects it) you'll arrive at the 7. Bigg crowning glory. Inside there are a host of Sunday morning. Not even Regent Street, Market. This is where medieval interesting features (guidebooks are even old Regent Street, , can Newcastle citizens once sold and bought available). On leaving the cathedral, turn compare with that subtle descending a type of barley known as “bigg”. left and left again (past the old curve.” The street is the jewel in the Towards the top end of this paved area churchyard) and you'll arrive at a paved crown of Grainger Town, a clearly defined area. Look at the doorway opposite and Theatre Royal (up the hill) you'll see the conservation area in the middle of 8. Rutherford Memorial, possibly you'll notice a 11. Fanged Hare, or, as Newcastle, which was the brainchild of of the few independent cinemas the most ironic monument in Newcastle. its more popularly known, the Vampire property developer, Richard Grainger, remaining in England. It still boasts a It commemorates John Hunter Rabbit! One of the more striking sights in who began his re-modelling of Newcastle delightful 1930s Art Deco auditorium. Rutherford, a Scottish doctor and town, no-one knows for sure why it is back in 1834. Intermezzo, the café bar underneath is a educational reformer of the mid 1800s, actually there. Answers on a postcard Walk down the street and you'll soon perfect refreshment stop - serving the and a strong advocate of temperance. please... In the south corner of this come to the impressive front entrance to best Italian coffee in the city. Turn left at Today the area is the playground for enclosed area is a bust of 18th century the 1. Theatre Royal, which was the end of the alley and you'll come to young revellers, drawn by the sheer local artist and wood engraver, opened in 1837. This beautiful 3. Northern Goldsmiths on the weight of pubs, and the inscription on 12. Thomas Bewick. Bewick was a Grade I listed building was massively corner. Look up and you'll see the the monument - “water is best” - is pioneer of wood engraving, and his renovated in 1986 and is now the third beautiful golden lady representing Venus unlikely to challenge their belief that workshop once stood on this site. home to the Royal Shakespeare Company atop an ornate clock. She'll always give “Barcadi Breezer is best”. Look above Now, head down the flight of stairs onto (after London and Stratford upon Avon). you the time of day. Cross now into Pop World pub and you can see the small Dean Street, turn left and head up the Blue Carpet Return up the Northumberland Street, Newcastle's main white crescent moons which are a hill. Once over the junction, you're back hill and past shopping area. Head past Fenwick’s on reminder of its past as an old coaching onto Grey Street and time, once again, to Waterstone’s your left and above the Zara clothes shop inn. Other notable features of the area enjoy your wonderful surroundings as bookshop on you'll notice 4. four stone figures include the wonderful tiling of the you stroll up Grainger's masterpiece, your right, and gazing down on the shoppers. The Beehive pub (spot the bees!); The Old back to Grey's Monument and Monument head down the building was once owned by Boots the George pub (walk down the alley and Metro station. alley which will Chemist, who had a habit of decorating notice the building opposite which was take you to the their buildings with local historic figures. once a stable. The pub has been in 2. Tyneside These are: Thomas Bewick (the 18th existence since 1690); and Balmbras (now Cinema, one century wood engraver - more of which a brash 80s fun pub, but in the 19th 6 | WALKING GUIDE www.NewcastleGateshead.com 7 NEWCASTLE CENTRAL STATION NEWCASTLE CENTRAL STATION

your 4 billion year old family, find out what makes you unique, test your brainpower and enjoy the thrill of the motion simulator ride. Also worthy of attention in the Square itself, is a single stone building which was once the market manager's office (this area used to house a bustling market).

Turn left out of the Square (from the way you came in) and in the distance you'll spot a large red brick building, topped with some green domes. This is the City Walls 4. Discovery Museum and well Around the corner from Neville Hall, worth a visit. Its pride and joy is surely follow Orchard Street under the tunnel, Turbinia, a boat constructed by Sir to emerge opposite the Telegraph pub. Charles Parsons, which, in 1897, became Close by is a section of the the fastest vessel on the seas. 8. Medieval town wall, built between 1311-1333. For the best view, walk The world’s fastest sea-faring vessel, a Cardinal, After your visit, turn left down St. James' along the path at the foot of the wall Boulevard and then turn right onto and go back to the Telegraph. Continue the development of the railways and a “Vulcan”. Westgate Road, down past the down the street to get to Clavering 5. Journal Tyne Theatre, and at Place. 9. Clavering House was built Starting point: Central Station Metro, the junction with Clayton Street West, in the 1780s, and hints at what was once Neville Street turn right towards 6. St. Mary's a very fashionable corner of Newcastle, Length of walk: 1 - 1.5 hours Cathedral. Six different architects before the railways arrived. Follow the worked on the church including, between street as it curves around into Hanover has a strong 1842-44, Augustus Welby Pugin who also Square and Hanover Street. This connection with railways and it's worked on the design for the Houses of streetscape (as it continues down the appropriate that this walk begins at one Parliament in London. Around the other bank) hasn't altered much since the mid- of the city's most striking buildings, side of the building you'll see the statue 19th century, when the bonded 1. Newcastle Central Station. of Cardinal George “Basil” Hume, former warehouses were built. Check out the From the entrance to the Metro station leader of the English Roman Catholic “stone tramway” built into the cobbles on Neville Street walk towards the huge community, and devoted Newcastle which once provided a smooth surface arches of the station. Designed by John United fan! Cardinal Hume is shown for horse drawn carts. Dobson, it is regarded as one of the most wearing his Benedictine monk’s habit. important train sheds in the country, and Discovery Museum Near the top of this bank, a short flight it dominates this area of town. Walk down past Newcastle Central of steps leads to Whitefriars Place. You'll tiles, which were very expensive and not Station once again, and you'll come to see on your left the award-winning office You'll find the entrance beneath the usually used in public buildings. However another sculpture of one of the region's developments of Central Square South arched area, over the traffic lights - in a move which would have had those favourite sons, the railway pioneer, and 10. Central Square. Head for opposite O'Neills pub. It's well worth elegant Victorians spluttering into their George Stephenson (1781-1848). The the narrow space between them to see having a look inside the station to Earl Grey - this wonderful décor design improvements and engineering “Reaching For The Stars” a striking piece witness first hand the magnificence of disappeared from view when the British skills which he introduced proved that of art by Kenneth Armitage. Down the this Grade I listed building. Turning left at Transport Police moved into the building steam locomotives could transport both end of this lane is South Street and the entrance which led into the station, and painted over the tiles with a garish goods and passengers economically and opposite is the brick building which once you'll notice a bar/bistro, shade of red. The room is now restored to efficiently. On the other side of the housed the world's first locomotive 2. The Centurion. This place was its original splendour, and has a beautiful street you'll see the 7. Literary and factory (established by Robert originally where first class passengers interior. Philosophical Society. Opened in Stephenson, son of George). At the used to rest their bustles and the bar 1822, one of its claims to fame is that it bottom of South Street turn right and area exudes Pass through Centurion onto Neville Centurion housed the first public room in the world you can't miss the massive sculpture, elegance. In Street and turn left, past the entrance to to be lit by the electric light when Sir “Vulcan”, by Sir Eduardo Paolozzi, a 1893 the railway Newcastle Central Station, and walk Joseph Swan demonstrated his new reminder of Tyneside's industrial past company straight ahead until you reach incandescent light bulb. Next to it is and a symbol of the region's strength of decorated the 3. Centre for Life, which opens out Neville Hall which was built as the offices spirit. Turning through the tunnel and room with into Times Square. The Centre for Life and library for the North of England turning left, will bring you back to the specially is actually the UK's first biotechnology Institute of Mining and Mechanical start of your walk. village and is well worth paying a visit, commissioned, Engineers. hand-made if you're interested to discover just how Burmantoft truly amazing life is! Here you can meet 8 | WALKING GUIDE www.NewcastleGateshead.com 9

CASTLE & QUAYS CASTLE & QUAYS

back in time with its high, ornate ceilings, embossed wallpaper and stained glass windows. You're more likely to have a dog for company in here than a bloke wielding a karaoke machine. Continue past the pub until you reach the pedestrian crossing. Cross over, turn around and take a look at the imposing black and white framed buildings opposite. This is part of the Medieval Sandhill area. In the bottom left hand corner of one of the buildings is a plaque beneath a window. In the 18th century, this was the home of 6. Bessie Surtees, the eldest daughter of a Newcastle banker. She eloped with John Scott (he was from a Bessie Surtees’ House poor family and her family considered him not up to scratch) and this is the it's the magnificent 12. Gateshead An elopement, NewcastleGateshead's most famous landmark, actual window she climbed out to elope Millennium Bridge which draws the with him. Their fate? Bessie's parents eye. Opened to the public in 2001, it has a Roman fort and an “unpromising” poet. eventually accepted the marriage and already won a host of accolades John went on to become Lord Chancellor including the Royal Institute of British Starting point: of England. Talk about a window of Architects Stirling Prize. Cross over to Castle Keep steps, off Collingwood Street opportunity... the equally stunning 13. BALTIC Length of walk: 1.5 - 2 hours Next to the traffic lights is 7. The Centre for Contemporary Art Guildhall. Once the centre of the which houses an ever changing art What better way to start a walk of commercial life of the area, it has programme. After exploring inside this NewcastleGateshead than to begin at the recently been transformed into a Tourist free art gallery (make sure you visit the spot which gave Newcastle its name. In Information Centre. Behind it you'll see viewing platform giving stunning views 1080, Robert Curthose, son of William the the River Tyne and five of its bridges: over the river), head up the stairs from Conqueror, was ordered to build a The High Level (1849); The Queen BALTIC Square, and towards the huge 1. “new castle” on the high ground Elizabeth II Bridge (1981); The Swing steel and glass structure, 14. The overlooking a crossing point on the River Bridge (1876) , Gateshead Millennium Sage Gateshead, the internationally Tyne. This new castle was a royal castle Bridge (2001) and, of course, The Tyne acclaimed music venue and home to and was often home to the early Norman Bridge (1928), NewcastleGateshead's Northern Sinfonia. Walk through the kings - somewhere they could hold court, most famous landmark. concourse and exit via the west door. sit in judgement and entertain. The Keep Gateshead Millennium Bridge Retrace your steps back across the road Accross the road you will notice was the principal stronghold of what 3. Castle Keep until you see cobble and you’ll see the 8. Akenside pub. 15. Gateshead Visitor Centre in would have been a much larger castle stones set into the pavement. These mark Mark Akenside (Newcastle poet and St Mary’s Church lies ahead. Fantastic complex than survives today. If you climb the position of the Roman Fort, Pons physician) was born on this site in 1721 views and postcard opportunities ahoy! to the top of the battlements you will be Aelius. Walk beneath the railway arches and there's some information about him Back down the hill and over the rewarded by a bird’s eye view of the city. and on your right you'll see another on a panel near the door (including an 16. Swing Bridge will lead you back Turning left from the bottom of the Keep significant part of the castle complex unflattering quote about his appearance to Bessie Surtees’ house. Head left and stairs you will see 2. Moot Hall (1812). which is Blackgate. This massive gateway being “unpromising, if not grotesque...”). take the Castle Stairs back up to the “Moot” is an old English term meaning a originally strengthened the defences of When facing the pub, turn right and up Castle Keep. Halfway up, pause (for meeting place. Usually a meeting place of the castle on its vulnerable west side. Akenside Hill. At the top you'll see breath!) and admire the ancient Postern judges or magistrates and where After exploring this area face the 9. All Saints Church (1786). Gate - a doorway through the castle's sentences or punishments could be cathedral and take the steep hill (known Continue over the hill, passing the curtain wall - which is one of the best announced. This Moot Hall was designed as The Side) down past Agora bar. Notice modern housing on your left, down Dog preserved in England. After that climb Blackgate by architect the bust above the door of 4. Milburn Bank, and into Broad Chare. Turn right to we can heartily recommend popping into John Stokoe House. This is Admiral Lord Collingwood find 10. Trinity House, founded in The Bridge Hotel public house (opposite who was who was born in 1748 in a house on this 1492 and from the mid-1500s onwards The Keep and just before the High Level influenced by site. During the Battle of Trafalgar, it was responsible for collecting tolls and taxes Bridge), for a pint of a local brew. the classical Collingwood who took over command of from ships using the Tyne. Continue Cheers! style of ancient the fleet after Lord Nelson was killed. along Broad Chare, passing the excellent Greece. Walk The Side joins Dean Street. Follow it 11. Live Theatre on your right, to around the round the bend and you'll see 5. The reach the river once again. There's a lot outside of the Crown Posada, one of the oldest of public art dotted around this area, but pubs in the quayside area and a real step

12 | WALKING GUIDE www.NewcastleGateshead.com 13 UNIVERSITY QUARTER UNIVERSITY QUARTER

tower which form part of the city’s coat Go into the of arms, while the seahorses recall Quadrangle and Newcastle's maritime heritage. Just on your right before the arches leading to the you'll see entrance, you'll notice on the wall the 11. The impressive sculpture, “Tyne God”. Hatton Beyond it (under the arches) is an Gallery. There's equally arresting work, “The Swan”. an ever-changing The five bronze birds represent the five programme here, Scandinavian countries of Norway, but on permanent Denmark, Sweden, Finland and Iceland. exhibit is the Ambleside Return the way you came and follow the Merzbarn by path towards the church. Beside the German born three flagpoles there is a carved stone artist Kurt King’s Walk commemorating the visit in 1977 of Schwitters, described by art historian, former US president, Jimmy Carter, who Andrew Graham Dixon as “the most famously drawled in his southern accent important work of modern British art.” to the cheering crowds, “Howay the Across from The Hatton Gallery is the A US president, a pitman, the “Tyne God”, and lads”, a popular cry of the followers of Museum of Antiquities (which has a raft Newcastle United. of information regarding the Roman “the most important work of modern British art”. world and particularly Hadrian's Wall) and at the top end of the Quadrangle, on Take time to investigate the church of Starting point: the left, is the Shefton Museum of Greek 7. St. Thomas the Martyr, before Art and Archaeology (both of which are crossing at the lights (to where Length of walk: 1.5 - 2 hours free). Blackwell's bookshop is) and turn right. Newcastle is a two university city and Head along to the next road junction, After exploring these galleries, leave by this walk will lead you through their and you'll spot a lifesize sculpture of the exit opposite to where you came in myriad of sights to see, with some other 8. Sir William Armstrong, one of and onto Queen Victoria Road. Turn left notable points of interest along the way. Newcastle's most famous sons. Born and head along until you see the row of here in 1810, he was an engineering giant white terraces (opposite the Trent House From the entrance to 1. Haymarket and responsible for the Armstrong pub), Leazes Crescent. Follow the road Metro station, face to walk down Breech loading gun and the Swing Bridge along up to 12. Leazes Terrace, the Northumberland Street, Newcastle's main on the quayside, amongst other things. elegant, early 19th century houses which shopping thoroughfare. Walk down it and Walk up Claremont Road and you'll see were built by Richard Grainger (see the turn left at BHS and onto the 9. Hancock Museum on your Grainger Town tours for more). This Northumberland Road. If you follow BHS Civic Centre right, which is North East England’s terrace overlooks the ornamental Leazes along this road you'll see a relief on the Northumberland Road until you spot the natural history museum, and just the Park which has recently undergone a wall, 2. “Newcastle Through The 4. pile of stone books on your right place for all manner of wonders from the massive programme to restore it back to Ages”, which depicts many facets of and cross the road where you'll see a natural world and the odd Egyptian the splendour of its Victorian heyday. the city's past: bridges, coalmining, steam signpost pointing towards “Student mummy or two! (Closed until 2009). locomotives, cranes, etc. Continue down Services and Learning Resources”. This will Behind Leazes Terrace is 13. St. James' Park, home to Newcastle this road and before crossing at the lead you directly into the centre of the Across from the museum is King's Walk, United, one of the overriding passions of traffic lights, glance upwards, across the University of Northumbria campus. Head leading directly into the University of the locals. Organised tours of the ground road, and you'll see a statue of a pitman. for the 5. University Gallery, Newcastle buildings. On your left you'll are available. The building he stands proudly upon is opposite the Civic Centre, which uses 10. Northern Stage and to your 3. Burt Hall. Cross over to it. It was imaginative programming to ensure that right is an arched gateway leading to the Heading to the 14. Trent House pub once the headquarters of the their exhibitions are always well worth Quadrangle area and some of the city’s is a good option for a refreshment stop, Northumberland branch of the National checking out, and entry is free. most interesting galleries and museums. Union of Miners and was named after where you'll see the charming curved Thomas Burt, who was MP for Morpeth in Upon leaving the gallery, cross Sandyford St James’ Park terrace of St. Thomas’ Crescent. This pub Northumberland for more than 40 years, Road, keeping the 6. Civic Centre also has a great free jukebox. Stroll from 1874, and was the first working (enormous white building) on your right. down it and if you turn right at the miner to be elected to Parliament. Follow the Civic Centre round until you bottom you'll see the Haymarket bus arrive at the public park and the station and 15. Marks and Further along Northumberland Road, you'll entrance to the building. The Civic Centre Spencer. Walk down here and turn left notice another delightful building on the itself was opened in 1968 and is where and you'll be back to the Haymarket corner, College House, which once housed the city council operates from. Look out Metro station once again. Dame Allan's school. Continue down for the three golden castles on top of the

14 | WALKING GUIDE www.NewcastleGateshead.com 15 JESMOND JESMOND

following the road along you’ll pass the Punch Bowl pub. It was built in the 1870s in the Scottish Baronial style, which was very popular in the 19th century. Continue down this way (heading for the church spire in front of you), passing the Cradlewell pub and several shops and restaurants. Turning right, just past the church, and head past the stone pillars leading onto Armstrong Bridge. Sir William George Armstrong was born in Newcastle in 1810 and attained magnificent achievements in the world of hydraulics, armaments and in the development of electricity (see University Quarter walk for more on House Hotel him). The bridge (designed by the man himself, naturally, and completed in 1876) affords magnificent views of Jesmond A mansion, a holy well, a banqueting hall and some peacocks. Dene which was another of the great man’s lasting legacies. He had many Starting point: exotic trees and shrubs planted here, and laid out in some of the footpaths Length of walk: 1.5 - 2hours you can enjoy today. Stroll over the bridge (there’s a delightful arts and Jesmond Dene Jesmond is just a short Metro journey crafts market held here each Sunday out of NewcastleGateshead and this morning) and at the other side there’s a the small track straight up from The beautiful, leafy suburb has a whole host turning to the left leading down into the Grove and is marked by a blue plaque of interesting sights to view and also Dean itself. Continue down the hill and and small gate. Return to the main road, provides one of the most pleasurable and take some time to explore the area. turn right, and look for the turning into relaxing walks you're likely to find Millfield House offers refreshments, Grosvenor Road. Head up here, turning anywhere. toilets and an information centre and left into Manor House Road and then a You’re never far from a work of art in make sure you check out Pets short stroll down leads to Fern Avenue NewcastleGateshead and this continues Corner which houses exotic birds on your right. Along this street you’ll in Jesmond. After alighting from the amongst its range of different animals. notice the antiques centre on your right, Metro, ascend the stairs and you’ll notice Following the road past the assorted just the spot for a good browse. Armstrong Bridge an intriguing sculpture behind some peacocks and pot-bellied pigs, walk Continue along to the end of the street glass panels. This is by Raf Fulcher and Road and turn right into Akenside along with the river on your left until and turn right onto Osborne Road. You’ll entitled “Garden Front” and was Terrace. Follow the street down and cross you see the aptly named Ivy Bridge. see the spire of St. George’s developed using the language of 17th and over (taking extreme care, it’s a busy Climb up the stairs and cross over then church ahead, which was built by Lord 18th century garden design. A panel on a one), to the imposing looking gateway to follow the path to the left. You’ll pass Armstrong’s business partner, Charles nearby wall will give you more the Jesmond Old Cemetery. The Jesmond Dene House Hotel Mitchell, for £30,000 - an absolute information about it. man responsible for designing the arched (a great place for afternoon tea) as you fortune in the late 19th century. There’s Bear left out of the station onto Jesmond entrance is John Dobson, who had such a continue upwards, then take the stairs plenty of bars along this street and just Road and turn left again up Osborne hand in the reshaping of Newcastle on the left, which lead up to Lord the place to stop for a drink, especially if Road. A little way along, cross over onto during the mid-19th century. The Armstrong’s Banqueting Hall, built the weather is favourable as most have Fernwood Road. You’ll pass Fernwood cemetery was constructed to accept all by John Dobson in 1860. outdoor seating. Go on, you’ve earned it! House on your left, before you see the religious denominations with one half of Turn left out of the grounds of the hall Further along this street, turn into Acorn grandiose looking Mansion House. the ground consecrated and the other and continue along until you see the Road, which leads off to the left. At the This is where Jesmond Dene half reserved as unconsecrated for non- street sign for The Grove on the right. end of it, follow the sign to the nearest the Lord Mayor conformists and it provides the final Just up this road, and hidden in the Metro station which is West Jesmond. of Newcastle resting place for many of Newcastle’s trees to the right, you’ll discover the entertains famous residents of the 19th century ruins of St. Mary’s Chapel (it can sundry royals including engineers, artists, industrialists be reached through a wooden gate). A and other and inventors. Fittingly John Dobson place of worship for at least 700 years, dignitaries when himself is buried here, in the south west this little chapel was also a place of they visit the corner. Exit the cemetery by the way you pilgrimage with a reputation for healing region. Continue came in and turn right, walk along to the the sick who visited the holy well nearby. down Fernwood lights and cross over. If you keep The well can be reached by heading up 16 | WALKING GUIDE www.NewcastleGateshead.com 17 GATESHEAD GATESHEAD

only takes 5 minutes). When you arrive, cross over at the lights, with the memorial on your right, and you’ll see the Shipley Art Gallery. The gallery was named after Joseph Shipley (1822 - 1909), a local solicitor who achieved great wealth through practising law, who ploughed some of his cash into collecting paintings. When he died his immense collection was offered to the city of Newcastle but only if certain conditions were met. However, after much debate over a variety of issues, it was decided that Newcastle could not find a home for the collection. So, the Shipley Bequest came to its final resting place here in the purpose built art gallery in front of you. BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art Just inside the main entrance, check out the goat on the wall to your right. It once troupe that has existed for over 80 years graced one of the town’s old pubs, The (this, their permanent home, was built in Goat Inn, but it is possible that the name 1939). Across the road you’ll see an of the town itself is rooted in the stories entrance to 6. , one of of goats once roaming freely on the high North East England’s greatest parks. ground, or headland, to the south east. Dubbed “The People’s Park”, it was So, “goat’s head”, evolved into opened in 1876 to provide the “Gateshead.” Voila! The gallery has an industrialised town of Gateshead with imaginative arts programming policy and some green space, and it has recently The Blaydon Races, England’s first true poet, a collection of contemporary crafts that been restored to its past glories, and the People’s Park, and Angel delight. is one of the largest outside of London. what glories! The central area is One of the gallery’s must-see pieces is dominated by the magnificent Starting point: the famous painting Blaydon Races 7. Saltwell Towers which is now a (WC Irving 1866-1943) which is teeming visitor centre and café. This building was the private mansion of , a Length of walk: 1.5 - 2hours with life and depicts the goings on of Tyneside’s most famous anthem. On local stained glass manufacturer, and its When it comes to boosting your leaving the gallery look to your right to design was influenced by his extensive international profile, there’s not many see the reclining figure of James European travels. There’s a lot more to areas can match the enormous strides Renforth who, in 1868, won the see in the park besides the Towers, made by Gateshead in recent years. sculling Championship of the World however. The map by the gates will guide There’s The Angel of The North of course (sculling being a form of rowing, which you to: sporting facilities (including (more of which later), but you can also was very big on Tyneside during the bowling greens, tennis and basketball add BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art 1850s/60s). Sadly in 1871 he collapsed courts); the lake; play areas; the Rose and The Sage Gateshead to the list of high during a race and fell back into the arms Garden, The Dene (complete with lily profile ventures undertaken by this of his companion, Robert Chambers, pond); a maze, and much more besides. The Angel of the North forward-looking town (see Castle and never to regain consciousness. When you’ve enjoyed the park, leave by Quayside walk for more information on artworks to have been created in Britain: Head down the road (with the gallery on the entrance you came in, and walk uphill these two). Hop on a Metro to Gateshead 1 & 2. Opening Line, which was your left) to Central Library which houses onto Durham Road and cross to catch a and you’ll find that it has even more to created by Danny Lane. Composed of 19 a Tourist Information Centre, bus (21, 21a, 21b, 723 or 724), which, after offer... elements in steel and glass, the sculpture 4. Caedmon Hall and The Gallery, a few minute’s journey, will take you to Adjoining the Metro station is the bus runs for over 90 metres, rising to a height a space for temporary exhibition by Antony Gormley’s incredible sculpture, interchange (follow the signs from the of over five metres above the ground, professional artists. Caedmon was a 8. the Angel of the North. This Shipley Art Gallery station to get and incorporates elements of engineering simple cowherd who lived in the 7th powerful symbol of regeneration is also a there). However, and maritime culture to reflect the history century and joined the monastic life at reminder of the engineering skills which don’t jump on a of Gateshead. Whitby where his writing talent made the region world famous. It has bus just yet. The After taking in this impressive piece of flourished. He is regarded as England’s been named among the top twelve icons road in which work, head for Stand K and you catch any first true poet. of English life by the Department for the buses arrive number of buses (X1, 724, 728, 709 and Turn back towards the Shipley Art Gallery Culture, Media and Sport. is divided by 723) to the 3. Shipley Art Gallery and turn right down Shipcote Lane and Return to the Gateshead Interchange by one of the (ask the driver if you can have a ticket to then left along Avenue Road until you catching either the 21, 21a, 21b, X1 or largest public the Gateshead war memorial. The journey reach 5. The Little Theatre, home X41 bus. Contact Traveline on to the Progressive Players, an acting 0870 608 2 608 for bus times. 18 | WALKING GUIDE www.NewcastleGateshead.com 19 THE OUSEBURN VALLEY THE OUSEBURN VALLEY

your right) and past the smart looking offices and residential properties. Soon you will arrive at the Ouseburn, flowing into the Tyne, which is usually resplendent with colourful little boats bobbing at the mouth of the river. On the opposite bank you will be able to see the modern building of the 5. Ouseburn Water Sports Centre. Now you need to double back a little bit (and behind the residential properties) until you come to a cobbled The Ouseburn steep incline which is Horatio Street. On used to fuel the glassmaking processes. the left hand side, at the top of this road, Water power drove machinery in the flint you’ll see the 6. Sailors’ Bethel. The and flax mills which developed in the late word “Beth-el” is Hebrew for “House of 18th/early 19th centuries; lime kilns, a God”, and in the 130 years of its existence coppers works, tanneries and a white lead this building has served as a non- factory also arrived on the scene. Now, conformist chapel, a community centre, a the whole of the Ouseburn area has been Danish seamen’s church and now, finally, earmarked for careful regeneration aimed offices. In the late 19th century regular at keeping its unique character intact. trade between Newcastle and Danish If you head along the footpath, and then ports resulted in cargoes of butter, eggs over the wooden bridge, you won’t fail to and fresh meat arriving at the mouth of notice the various bridges spanning the the Ouseburn, and the Sailors’ Bethel was valley. The Byker Road Bridge (brick the ideal place for the Danish seamen to The sixth sense, the Danish connection, the birthplace arches) dates back to 1878; the Ouseburn stay overnight whilst their cargo was Rail Viaduct (wrought iron) opened in 1839, of Newcastle's industrial revolution and a hidden bridge. unloaded. while the modern, concrete, Byker Viaduct Just about opposite the Sailors’ Bethel was opened relatively recently and carries Starting point: you’ll notice a memorial to 7. William L the Metro line high above the valley. Baltic Square on Gateshead Quays Blenkinsopp Coulson, a man noted There’s more, however. Walk under the red for his huge efforts on behalf of not only Length of walk: 1.5 - 2hours brick arches of the first bridge and you’ll the weaker members of society, but There are numerous links between be standing on one of the oldest of the animals, too. The drinking trough has two Newcastle and Gateshead, with the most ravine’s bridges, fountains: the larger one for humans, and obvious, and justifiably famous, being the 9. Crawford’s Bridge. around the back, a smaller one for river Tyne which joins the two. What a lot Retrace your steps along past the Ship animals! Take a left at the top of Horatio of people don't know, however, is that the pub and spend a bit of time exploring the Street, cross the City Road and head up Tyne has a little cousin, The Ouseburn, area. 10. The Cluny is a great bar and the hill until you come to 8. Cut Bank. which has a tale to tell all of its own... is housed in an old whisky warehouse, On a grassy corner at the top of this road Begin this tour in 1. Baltic Square, originally built as a flax mill in the 1840s, you’ll notice yet another piece of next to the BALTIC Centre for and was designed by John Dobson. It has Gateshead Millennium Bridge sculpture. This slim work has the words Contemporary Art. And if you haven't yet a great selection of real ales. Just up from “sisal”, “hemp”, “coir” and “jute” carved paid a visit to this fantastic gallery now is fronted Pitcher and Piano bar, where you here is the recently opened 11. Seven into it, recalling the days when this area an ideal time to do so. The building itself will discover some of the which Stories, the Centre for supported a number of industries has quite a history as back in the 1950s it make up the 'Art on the Riverside’ scheme. Children’s Books, which is a superb including rope-making. was used to store grain, with the River The golden globe you can see sits atop the place to go to see an inspirational Continue down Cut Bank and past the Tyne being used as a key route for trading 3. Swirle Pavilion and walking inside collection of original artworks, Dallas Carpet warehouse, and once over with Scandinavian and Baltic states. The the sculpture reveals the names of the manuscripts and all manner of other the road bridge at the bottom of the company which built it had a habit of destinations of ships which departed from paraphernalia and activities relating to slope, head down the steps on the right- naming its warehouses after famous the Tyne during its industrial heyday. children’s books (note: there is a fee to hand side. Now walk under the bridge oceans of the world, hence its name. After Further along you’ll come to the get in, but it’s free to use the bookshop you’ve just crossed and along the river you've taken in whatever BALTIC currently 4. Blacksmith’s Needle. It is divided and cafe). Heading further along Lime footpath towards the heart of the has on show, prepare yourself for more into six sections and amongst the many Street (pausing to check out the Ouseburn Valley. artistic delights, this time of the objects which make up this sculpture, you 12. Ouseburn Resource Centre This is the valley which gave birth to architectural variety as you head over the should notice an ear, an eye and a nose for more information on this fascinating Newcastle’s own industrial revolution. As stunning 2. Gateshead Millennium amongst other things. The theme is the area), will bring you back to Cut Bank and early as the 17th century, glass factories Bridge. Once over the bridge turn to senses, with the last segments indicating onto Newcastle’s Quayside again. were established near the mouth of the your immediate right and past the glass the sixth sense! Continue along this way (with the Tyne on Ouseburn and local supplies of coal were

20 | WALKING GUIDE www.NewcastleGateshead.com 21 FURTHER INFORMATION

South Tyneside

Stunning coastal scenery and a wealth of cultural and heritage attractions, make this special corner of England’s North East the perfect destination. Spectacular cliffs, secret coves and pristine golden sands together with picturesque villages, provide a visual delight whatever the The Guildhall Visitor Information Centre weather. If you want to find out more about NewcastleGateshead, Our fascinating heritage has been preserved on the banks of the there are several publications available free of charge Tyne at Bede’s World and within South Shields Museum and Art from the Tourist Information Centres in NewcastleGateshead Gallery whilst our Roman past has been stunningly recreated at Arbeia Roman Fort. – see addresses and contact details below. Visitors can easily explore this compact destination on two wheels • The Pocket Guide is a handy Tel: +44 (0)191 478 4222 or on foot thanks to the extensive cycle trails and heritage walks. reference to all the attractions, Email: [email protected] With fantastic nightlife, dining and shopping opportunities and a museums, retail outlets, pubs, clubs and restaurants in NewcastleGateshead. Public Transport fun-filled events programme, South Tyneside really has it all. • The Accommodation and Information Attractions Guide gives general information on NewcastleGateshead and Metro its attractions, plus accommodation www.tyneandwearmetro.co.uk available in the city. Versions of this Most of the walks within this guide start guide are also available in German, at a Metro station. If you’re travelling on Dutch, Norwegian and Spanish. the Metro to your start point, there are • The What’s On Guide gives a variety of tickets types available from details on all the music, theatre, the ticket machines at each Metro entertainment and festivals taking place station, including all-day tickets. in NewcastleGateshead in the coming A Metro DaySaver gives unlimited travel months. across all zones, whilst a Metro Hopper allows unlimited travel within one zone. Tourist Information Quaylink For further details please contact Tourist Information Centre on Centres You may also want to use the QuayLink bus which connects Newcastle Tourist and Gateshead Interchange with the 0191 454 6612 Information Centres quayside. Look out for these bright yellow Central Arcade, Newcastle buses which run approximately every 10 www.visitsouthtyneside.co.uk Open: Mon, Tues, Wed, Fri 9.30am – minutes, 7 days a week. 5.30pm; Thurs 9.30am – 5.30pm; Sat 9am – 5pm; closed Sundays and Bank For further public transport information, Holidays. call into a Nexus Travelshop located at The Guildhall, Newcastle Quayside main Metro stations, or call Traveline on Open: Mon – Fri 10am – 5pm; Sat 9am – 0870 608 2 608. 5pm; Sun 9am – 4pm. Open Bank ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Holidays (except Christmas Day, Boxing Cover Image: Peter Atkinson Day and New Year’s Day). Photographs:Graeme Peacock, John Donoghue, Tel: +44 (0)191 277 8000. Alan Bennington, Dave Foster, Peter Atkinson -Ad Infinitum, Andrew Roper, Gemma Rutherford, Email: [email protected] Wes Stobbart, Jed Wee and Ray Main. Text: Robert Meddes and Jan Williams. Gateshead Tourist Information Designed and produced by The Crack. Gateshead Visitor Centre, DISCLAIMER: While every care has been taken in the St Mary’s Church, Oakwellgate, accuracy of producing this guide, the publisher is not liable for any errors or omissions which may inadvertently Gateshead Quayside Open: Mon – Fri 9am occur. All information in this publication is subject to – 5pm; Sat 10am – 5pm; Sun & Bank change and prices stated are subject to availability. All Holidays 11am – 5pm details correct at time of going to print July 2006. NS/0103/JUN2006 22 | WALKING GUIDE