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The National Life Story Collection
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH AN ORAL HISTORY OF BRITISH FASHION Betty Jackson Interviewed by Eva Simmons C1046/10 IMPORTANT Please refer to the Oral History curators at the British Library prior to any publication or broadcast from this document. Oral History The British Library 96 Euston Road London NW1 2DB United Kingdom +44 [0]20 7412 7404 [email protected] Every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of this transcript, however no transcript is an exact translation of the spoken word, and this document is intended to be a guide to the original recording, not replace it. Should you find any errors please inform the Oral History curators. NATIONAL LIFE STORY COLLECTION INTERVIEW SUMMARY SHEET Title Page Ref. No.: C1046/10/01-26 Playback No: F15711, F16089-92, F16724- 8, F16989-96, F17511-8 Collection title: Oral History of British Fashion Interviewee’s surname: Jackson Title: Ms Interviewee’s forenames: Betty Sex: F Occupation: Fashion Designer Date of birth: 1949 Mother’s occupation: Housewife Father’s occupation: Shoe Manufacturer Date(s) of recording: 14.07.04, 29.09.04, 20.10.04, 25.11.04, 02.12.04, 14.01.05, 25.02.05, 08.04.05, 22.04.05, 06.05.05, 03.06.05, 27.06.05 Location of interview: Betty Jackson’s office, Shepherds Bush, London Name of interviewer: Eva Simmons Type of recorder: Marantz CP430 Total no. of tapes: 26 Type of tape: D60 Mono or stereo: Stereo Speed: N/A Noise reduction: Dolby B Original or copy: Original Additional material: Copyright/Clearance: open Interviewer’s comments: Betty Jackson Page 1 C1046/10 Tape 1 Side A (part 1) Tape 1 Side A [part 1] This is Eva Simmons interviewing Betty Jackson. -
David Hockney
DAVID HOCKNEY David Hockney (b. 1937) • Born in Bradford, went to Bradford Grammar School and Bradford College of Art. He was born with synaesthesia and sees colours in response to music. At the Royal College of Art he met R. B. Kitaj • 1961 Young Contemporaries exhibition announcing the arrival of British Pop art. His early work shows expressionist elements similar to some Francis Bacon. He exhibited alongside Peter Blake (born 1932), Patrick Caulfield and Allen Jones. He met Ossie Clarke and Andy Warhol. • He featured in Ken Russell’s Pop Goes the Weasel with Pauline Boty (pronounced ‘boat-ee’) • Hockney had his first one-man show when he was 26 in 1963, and by 1970 (or 1971) the Whitechapel Gallery in London had organized the first of several major retrospectives. • He moved to Los Angeles in 1964, London 1968-73 and then Paris 1973-75. He produced 1967 paintings A Bigger Splash and A Lawn Being Sprinkled. Los Angeles again in 1978 rented then bought the canyon house and extended it. He also bought a beach house in Malibu. He moved between New York, London and Paris before settling in California in 1982. • He was openly gay and painted many celebratory works. It 1964 he met the model 1 Peter Schlesinger and was romantically involved. In California he switched from oils to acrylic using smooth, flat and brilliant colours. • He made prints, took photographs and stage design work for Glyndebourne, La Scala and the Metropolitan Opera House in New York. • From 1968 he painted portraits of friends just under life size. -
Feminism Reframed Alexandra M. Kokoli Cambridge Scholars
Feminism Reframed Edited by Alexandra M. Kokoli Cambridge Scholars Publishing Feminism Reframed, Edited by Alexandra M. Kokoli This book first published 2008 by Cambridge Scholars Publishing 15 Angerton Gardens, Newcastle, NE5 2JA, UK British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library Copyright © 2008 by Alexandra M. Kokoli and contributors All rights for this book reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner. ISBN (10): 1-84718-405-7, ISBN (13): 9781847184054 TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction ................................................................................................. 1 Looking On, Bouncing Back Alexandra M. Kokoli Section I: On Exhibition(s): Institutions, Curatorship, Representation Chapter One............................................................................................... 20 Women Artists, Feminism and the Museum: Beyond the Blockbuster Retrospective Joanne Heath Chapter Two.............................................................................................. 41 Why Have There Been No Great Women Dadaists? Ruth Hemus Chapter Three............................................................................................ 61 “Draws Like a Girl”: The Necessity of Old-School Feminist Interventions in the World of Comics and Graphic Novels -
Chapter 1 1850-1890: the Dawn of Modern Clothing
Chapter 1 1850-1890: The Dawn of Modern Clothing This Teacher’s Guide, compiled with the assistance of Stephanie Kramer, is designed to provide you with a summary of the key points in the development of fashion during the period/decade covered in this chapter. It also provides a concise survey of the significant designers of the time, essay and discussion questions, and further reading and research suggestions. Objective The main objective of this chapter is to study the development of fashion during the second half of the 19th century, particularly the establishment of those aspects of the fashion system that are still in place today. Fashion in this period reflected the latest developments in engineering, chemistry, and communication and witnessed development of the role of the “fashion designer.” Key Teaching Points The following teaching points have been arranged thematically and highlight the important topics that need to be covered in order to meet the main objective of the chapter. Social and Economic Background • Britain o reign of Queen Victoria (1837-1901); stress on propriety and etiquette o rapid industrialization o expanding overseas empire • United States o impact of Civil War (1861-1865) on global trade o emergence as industrial power • France o reestablishment of court during Second Empire (begins 1852, ends with Franco-Prussian war 1870) o transformation of Paris into fashionable modern city • Japan o opens borders (1853-1854) o goods enter the Western market and impact Western tastes The Arts • Orientalism and Academic -
Unit 119: Printed Textiles for Fashion and Clothing
Unit 119: Printed Textiles Code: R/502/5438 QCF Level 3: BTEC National Credit value: 10 Guided learning hours: 60 Aim and purpose The aim of the unit is to develop learners’ knowledge and skills in the use of printed textiles for different applications and their understanding of the way designers, artists and craftworkers work with traditional and non-traditional materials to produce individual and diverse work using a variety of techniques. Unit introduction Textile designers, who produce designs for commercial fashion and clothing, work with small and large pattern repeats. Large-scale designs that wrap around a garment can be produced by textile artists who use printed textiles to communicate and express ideas in their personal work and these are usually one-off pieces. Textile designers usually produce hand painted designs or computer generated work which is sold to buyers on behalf of fabric printers. Ideas are then adapted and put into production. Designers usually present their ideas in a selection of colour-ways that follow seasonal or independent trend predictions. The aim of the unit is to introduce learners to the techniques and application of printed textiles in fashion and clothing. Fashion designers and textile artists work with traditional and non-traditional materials to produce individual and exciting work using a variety of techniques. Designers use a range of skills in developing ideas for printed textiles. Learners will research a range of visual sources including exploring the work of historical and contemporary textile designers. They will develop these sources using a variety of materials, techniques and processes using both traditional and non-traditional materials. -
Danad Design: 1958-62 Tom Adams
DANAD DESIGN: 1958-62 TOM ADAMS. PETER BLAKE. BERNARD COHEN. ROBYN DENNY. BARRY DANIELS. EDWARD WRIGHT. A Learning Resource for Teachers to support the Pop by Design Exhibition at 1 Hoe Street Gallery, 8 February – 26 April 2020: An introduction to DANAD Design with background information, ‘Works in Focus’ and classroom activities. 1 Cover images clockwise from top left: Painting 50s, 1956, Barry Daniels; Wall Bar, 1960, Robyn Denny; Painting 60s, 1962, Barry Daniels; Tattooed Lady, 1985, Sir Peter Blake; Agatha Christie book cover, 1970s, Tom Adams; Mary Quant textile design, around 1962, Barry Daniels; Table, 1960, Barry Daniels. Courtesy of DANAD Design Foundation 2 Pop by Design: DANAD DESIGN 1958-1960 These notes have been created to support teachers of Art and Design and Design and Technology who are interested in visiting the DANAD Design exhibition at One Hoe Street Gallery, Waltham Forest’s new exhibition space run in partnership with the William Morris Gallery. Whilst developed with KS3 and KS4 level in mind, this resource is also suitable for teachers of other age groups. There are links to literacy (expressing opinions, evaluating ideas) and social history (1960s Pop Art), as well as textile and fashion design. The background information outlines the ideas and environment that led to the DANAD Design collective, exploring how they were the early instigators of Pop Art in Britain with a lasting impact on textiles, fashion and interior design from the 1960s to today. It also explores how their work links back to the creative principles of both William Morris and the Bauhaus, in their desire to bring art, craft and design together. -
Maggs 1453 No
Autographs Maggs 1453 No. 120, Nathalie Krassovska No. 126, Serge Lifar No. 95, Peggy Ashcroft and John Gielgud No. 98, Martha Graham AUTOGRAPH LETTERS & HISTORICAL DOCUMENTS MAGGS 1453 Peter de Corbeil, no. 176 Catalogue compiled by Hinda Rose and Polly Beauwin Maggs Bros Ltd., 50 Berkeley Square, London W1J 5BA Open Monday – Friday, 9.30am – 5.00pm Tel: (00)44-(0)20-7493 7160 Fax: (00)44-(0)20-7499 2007 [email protected] [email protected] Bank Account: Allied Irish (GB), 10 Berkeley Square, London W1J 6AA Sort code: 23-83-97 Account Number: 47777070 IBAN: GB94AIBK23839747777070 BIC: AIBKGB2L VAT No.: GB239381347 Access/Mastercard and Visa: Please quote card number, expiry date, name, security code and invoice number by mail, fax or telephone. EU members: please quote your VAT/TVA number when ordering. Items may be subject to VAT within the EU; EU customers outside the UK may not be subject to VAT if they provide a VAT number at time of purchase. The goods shall legally remain the property of the seller until the price has been discharged in full. ©Maggs Bros Ltd. 2011 express to you personally my full admiration for all the truly wonderful energy, devotion and power of administration you have displayed during these long and critical years.” Slight splitting at the edges of the centre horizontal folds has been repaired under our direction. Together with a contemporary postcard photograph of ‘Alexandra, the Queen Mother’, an elegant oval head and shoulders image. “WE HAD A GOOD CAMPAIGN” 2. ALLENBY, Edmund, Viscount (1861-1936). Field-Mashal. -
Marit Allen Interviewed by Alistair O'neill C1046/13
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH AN ORAL HISTORY OF BRITISH FASHION Marit Allen Interviewed by Alistair O’Neill C1046/13 IMPORTANT Please refer to the Oral History curators at the British Library prior to any publication or broadcast from this document. Oral History The British Library 96 Euston Road London NW1 2DB United Kingdom +44 [0]20 7412 7404 [email protected] Every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of this transcript, however no transcript is an exact translation of the spoken word, and this document is intended to be a guide to the original recording, not replace it. Should you find any errors please inform the Oral History curators. NATIONAL LIFE STORY COLLECTION INTERVIEW SUMMARY SHEET Title Page Ref. No.: C1046/13/01-8 Collection title: Oral History of British Fashion Interviewee’s surname: Allen Title: Ms Interviewee’s forenames: Marit Sex: Female Occupation: Film Costume Designer Date of birth: Mother’s occupation: Hotelier Father’s occupation: Hotelier Date(s) of recording: 09.08.2005, 06.09.2005, 21.09.2005, 06.10.2005 Location of interview: Interviewee’s home, London SW6 Name of interviewer: Alistair O’Neill Type of recorder: Marantz CP430 Total no. of tapes: 8 Type of tape: D60 Mono or stereo: Stereo Speed: N/A Noise reduction: Dolby B Original or copy: Original Additional material: Copyright/Clearance: © The British Library Board Interviewer’s comments: Marit Allen Page 1 C1046/13 Tape 1 Side A [part 1] Tape 1 Side A [part 1] Can I just ask you what you had for breakfast this morning? Yes, you can. -
Queen Elizabeth II 2009-2016
13th January 2009. British Design Classics (1st issue). 1st 1st 1st Supermarine Spitfure Mini Skirt Mini (R. J. Mitchell) (Mary Quant) (Sir Alec Issigonis) 1st 1st 1st Anglepoise Lamp Concorde K2 Telephone Kiosk (George Carwardine)© Gerard (AérospatialeJ McGouran-BAC) 2018(Sir Giles Gilbert Scott) www.gbstampalbums.co.uk © Gerard J McGouran 2018 ©J Gerard 1st 1st 1st Polypropylene Chair Penguin Books London Underground Map (Robin Day) (Edward Young) 1st Routemaster Bus (design team led by AAM Durrant) www.gbstampalbums.co.uk © Gerard J McGouran 2018 QEII Decimal Commemoratives 205 13th January 2009. British Design Classics (2nd series). Booklet stamp. 1st Concorde 12th February 2009. Birth Bicentenary of Charles Darwin (naturalist and evolutionary theorist) (1st issue). Self-adhesive. 1st 48p 50p © Gerard J McGouran 2018 Charles Darwinwww.gbstampalbums.co.uk Marine Iguana Finches © Gerard J McGouran 2018 ©J Gerard 56p 72p 81p Atoli Bee Orchid Orang-utan www.gbstampalbums.co.uk QEII Decimal Commemoratives 206 12th February 2009. Birth Bicentenary of Charles Darwin (naturalist and evolutionary theorist) (2nd issue). Booklet stamps. 1st 48p 50p Charles Darwin Marine Iguana Finches 56p 72p 81p Atoll Bee Orchid Orang-utan © Gerard J McGouran 2018 www.gbstampalbums.co.uk10th March 2009. British Design Classics (3rd series). © Gerard J McGouran 2018 ©J Gerard Self-adhesive booklet stamps. 1st 1st 1st K2 Telephone Kiosk Routemaster Bus (design team Mini (Sir Giles Gilbert Scott) led by AAM Durrant) (Sir Alec Issigonis) 1st 1st 1st Concorde Mini Skirt Supermarine Spitfire (Aérospatiale-BAC) (Mary Quant) (R. J. Mitchell) www.gbstampalbums.co.uk QEII Decimal Commemoratives 207 10th March 2009. Pioneers of the Industrial Revolution. -
46 AIM to Design Garment Shape Within Flat Textile Layers
PEELING GARMENTS Flat garment construction between fabric layers using the printing process as a construction method and the reference of a peeling wallpaper to create expressive dress Author: Monika Colja Master of Fine Arts with Specialisation in Fashion Design Report Number: 2020.6.08 Supervisor: Holly McQuillan Opponent: Ute Ploier Examiner: Clemens Thornquist May 2020 The past two years have been so much more than I could ever imagine. I have learnt, grown and made great friends. I would like to thank my amazing supervisor Holly McQuil- lan, without whose support and knowledge my work would not be the same. And all the other lecturers and staff (especially the print technicians, Sara and Emilia) for all the help. It has been a pleasure being here, working alongside everyone. I am most grateful for our class, the amazing people and creatives: the community we built to support each other and share everything has felt like a family. The times we had together I will treasure dearly. And lastly, to my family and friends, for always supporting me in my decisions, before I even take them. For believing in me and cheering me on. OVERVIEW / LINEUP PEELING GARMENTS MONIKA COLJA LOOK 1 PEELING GARMENTS MONIKA COLJA LOOK 2 PEELING GARMENTS MONIKA COLJA LOOK 3 PEELING GARMENTS MONIKA COLJA LOOK 4 PEELING GARMENTS MONIKA COLJA LOOK 5 PEELING GARMENTS MONIKA COLJA LOOK 6 PEELING GARMENTS MONIKA COLJA LOOK 7 PEELING GARMENTS MONIKA COLJA keywords: fashion design, print in fashion, flat garment construction, screen-printing, layering, simultaneous design ABSTRACT This work is a proposal for an alternative approach to working with print, making the printing process a key element within designing. -
Rector's Review
RECTORS COVER ALT film 22/11/06 11:56 am Page 1 rector’s review 05/06 Royal College of Art Kensington Gore London SW7 2EU www.rca.ac.uk RECTORS COVER ALT film 22/11/06 11:56 am Page 2 ‘The objects of the College are to advance learning, knowledge and professional competence particularly in the field of fine arts, in the principles and practice of art and design in their relation to industrial and commercial processes and social developments and other subjects relating thereto through teaching, research and collaboration with industry and commerce.’ Charter of Incorporation of the Royal College of Art, 28 July 1967 Visitor: His Royal Highness The Prince Philip Duke of Edinburgh Provost: Sir Terence Conran Pro-Provost and Chairman of the Council: Ian Hay Davison CBE Rector and Vice-Provost: Professor Sir Christopher Frayling Editor: Alison Sedgwick Design: Happily Ever After www.happily-ever-after.co.uk Photography: Alys Tomlinson Dominic Sweeny Printed by: Balding + Mansell Printed on Munken Print White. FSC Certified, mixed sources from well managed forests and other controlled sources. Contents Rector’s Introduction 3 Other College 43 Departments and College Year in Brief 4 2005/2006 Selected Highlights 6 Activities Exhibitions 44 External Relations 44 Department Reviews 11 Computing Services 45 School of Applied Art 12 Estates & Buildings 45 Ceramics & Glass 12 Students’ Union 46 Goldsmithing, Silversmithing, 13 College-wide and Graduate Initiatives 46 Metalwork & Jewellery LearnRCA 46 InnovationRCA 47 School of Architecture and Design -
Shopping Is GREAT Edition
A guide Brought to you by for international media Edition 4 – June 2015 Manchester England visitbritain.com/media Contents Contents ....................................................................................................................................................... 1 Quick facts about Shopping in Britain .................................................................................................. 3 Introduction to Shopping is GREAT ...................................................................................................... 4 Why go shopping anyway?! .................................................................................................................... 5 Ten great British designers .................................................................................................................... 8 Ones to watch: Ten fashion stars of the future ................................................................................ 10 Time for a history lesson: the department store ............................................................................. 12 Capital shopping outside of London .................................................................................................... 13 Independent Shopping in the UK: a directory ................................................................................... 17 LONDON ................................................................................................................................................. 17 ENGLAND ..............................................................................................................................................