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OutlandishScotland.com A Novel Holiday Travel Guidebook

Outlandish Journey Part 5 Sample 3

Table of Contents

Please Note: Below is the full Table of Contents for Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5. This Free Sample, however, only contains a few chapters. Additionally, every time you see this “…” it identifies a point where we’ve cut text from the sample chapter—usually a great deal of text. After all, we want you to buy the book!

Introduction About Outlandish Scotland Journey (OSJ) OSJ Parts and Outlandish Site Numbers About the OSJ eBooks OSJ Site Rating Icons The Outlanderite Oath Outlandish Extras OSJ Fee Examples

PART FIVE: ; the City & Nearby Sites , Site #39 Signet Library, Site #40 Tweeddale Court, Site #41 The World’s End Pub, Edinburgh, Site #42 Old Tolbooth & , Edinburgh, Site #43 Bakehouse Close, Site #44 Whitehorse Close, Edinburgh, Site #45 Holyroodhouse Palace & Abbey, Site #46 Summerhall Anatomy Lecture Theatre, Site #47 Castle, Site #48 Prestonpans Battlefield, Site #49 Gosford House, Site #50 Preston Mill, Site #51 Glencorse Old Kirk, Site #52 Roslin Glen Ruins, Site #53

Appendices Outlandish Scotland Extras Disclaimers Acknowledgements Photography Credits Copyright Information The End

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The City of Edinburgh: Site #39 (and Edinburgh Castle)

Five Novel Locations Four Film Sites A City Extraordinarily Rich in Scottish History (and a Castle that Can’t be Missed)

[©2005 Christian Bickel]

Edinburgh is Scotland’s capital city and one of the country’s most interesting and popular destinations. You can visit Edinburgh again and again, discovering new sights and experiences each and every time. To read an excellently condensed description of the city, go to Undiscovered Scotland’s Edinburgh page. https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/edinburgh/edinburgh/index.html To read a more in‐depth account of the city’s history—spanning thousands of years—go to Wikipedia’s History of Edinburgh page. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_Edinburgh

When planning a visit to a city as complex as Edinburgh, a great deal of information should be considered. To this chapter from becoming too cumbersome, we created an Edinburgh Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 5

Planning Directory. Linked from the Part 5 OutlanderLinks page of our website (and below), this directory contains the following free PDFs:  Explanation of the and Edinburgh Terminology  Visiting Edinburgh in August—or Not  Driving and Parking in Edinburgh—or Not  Edinburgh Public Buses  Edinburgh Hop‐on/off‐Buses  Edinburgh Taxis  Edinburgh Lodging Options  Edinburgh Old Town Walking Tours  Non‐Outlander Edinburgh Sites of Interest (Especially interesting if you’re also a Harry Potter fan.) http://outlandishscotland.com/Edinburgh‐Planning/ As it becomes available, new information will be added to the planning directory’s PDFs. Be sure to periodically check back to see if a new update has been posted.

The contents of this chapter focus on information handy to have at your fingertips as you tour the city—as well as in‐depth information about Edinburgh Castle.

The Royal Mile is home to five Outlander Novel Locations and three of Edinburgh’s four Outlander Film Sites. Following this chapter, these places have chapters of their own, presented in the order they are encountered when walking downhill from Edinburgh Castle to .  Signet Library (Site #40); a Film Site  Tweeddale Court (Site #41); a Film Site  World’s End Pub (Site #42); a Novel Location  Canongate Old Tolbooth and Canongate Kirk (Site #43); two Novel Locations  Bakehouse Close (Site #44); a Film Site  White Horse Close (Site #45); a Novel Location  Holyrood Palace (Site #46); a Novel Location

The fourth Outlander Film Site, Summerhall Anatomy Lecture Theatre (Site #47), is located approximately one mile south of the Royal Mile.

In case you didn’t notice our subtle hint above, the best way to enjoy the Royal Mile is to start at its top—Edinburgh Castle—and walk downhill to its bottom—Holyrood Palace. Obviously, you can start at the Palace and walk up the Royal Mile, but it really is a rather arduous incline. Even Claire thought so. “Edinburgh sloped upward steeply along its one main street. Holyrood sat in dignity at the foot … It loftily eignored th glowering presence of Edinburgh Castle, perched high on the crest of the rocky hill above. In between the two castles, the Royal Mile rose at a rough angle of forty‐five Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 6

degrees. Puffing red‐faced at Jamie’s side, I wondered how in hell Colum MacKenzie had ever negotiated the quarter‐mile of cobbled slope from the palace to [Canongate Kirk].” Dragonfly in Amber, chapter 37, “Holyrood”

[©2012 Kim Traynor segment (enhanced)] Edinburgh Castle as seen from the South.

Edinburgh Castle Crowning the top of a gigantic extinct volcano, Edinburgh Castle is one of the most important fortresses in Scottish history. It is not an Outlander novel setting, nor is it a film site. But, no one who visits Edinburgh should pass up an opportunity to tour this amazing edifice. “No trip to Scotland’s capital is complete without a visit to Edinburgh Castle—voted Best UK Heritage Attraction for the fourth year in a row at the British Travel Awards 2014.” https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit‐a‐place/places/edinburgh‐castle/

Furthermore, if you purchased an Historic Environment Scotland Explorer Pass for your holiday, admission to Edinburgh Castle is free.

Edinburgh Castle Plan of Attack When visiting any world‐famous tourist attraction there are tricks for gaining entry more rapidly, and for minimizing the amount of time you’ll waste waiting in lines (queues) during your visit. Here are our tips for efficiently enjoying Edinburgh Castle.

Obtain Your Edinburgh Castle Admission Ticket Prior to Arrival This is the most important tip! Buying tickets on‐site will be more expensive and always will cost you extra time. Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 7

Historic Environment Scotland Explorer Pass holders can go directly to the ticket inspector’s queue after walking through the castle’s main entrance. Those who purchase a ticket online from the Edinburgh Castle website—or from the Historic Environment Scotland website—will not only save money (tickets cost less when purchased online), you also can go directly to the ticket inspector’s queue—but, only if you select the Print at Home option. You’ll receive an email with your ticket purchase confirmation attached as a PDF. The PDF contains barcodes that the ticket inspector can scan. Print this and bring it with you on your visit.

If you select the Ticket Pickup option when buying an Edinburgh Castle ticket online, or save the online ticket purchase confirmation to your smart phone, you’ll pay less for entry, but will have to queue‐up at the Ticket Pick Up machines at the bottom (east end) of the Castle Esplanade. These are located at the security hut on the left hand side as you approach the Esplanade, across from the Tartan Weaving Mill. You will need to provide your last name and order confirmation number to collect your tickets.

Do not fret about having to choose a date and time slot when purchasing your Print at Home ticket online. Your ticket confirmation will allow entry during the selected time slot on the day before the ticketed date (in case your itinerary is altered and you need to visit a day earlier than planned), or on up to two days after the original date (in case it was raining Scottish cats and dogs on the ticketed date, or you were otherwise delayed in reaching Edinburgh). The entry time slot options range from 1 to 1.5 hours long. This does not indicate a time limit for your visit—there isn’t one. Its purpose is to identify the time of your intended arrival. You may enter the castle at any point during the time slot you select, and stay until closing if you wish. In the unhappy event that you purchase a Print at Home online ticket for the first time slot of the day (our recommendation), but something delays your arrival, do not stress. Your Print at Home ticket confirmation will allow entry during subsequent time slots that day, and you still can take the printed ticket directly to the ticket inspector—bypassing the ticket purchase lines—to gain entry.

Join the First Guided Tour After clearing the ticket inspector, walk through the Portcullis Gate to enter the Middle Ward and look to your right. There you’ll find the Audio Tour booth. Secure your Audio Tour, then scurry to the Guided Tour meeting place. It is only a few feet beyond the booth, on your right. You’ll see a rectangular, “Guided Tours Leave from Here” sign with a clock on it. The first 30‐minute free Guided Tour leaves at 9:45 am. Be on it! By catching the first tour you’ll enjoy an overview of Edinburgh Castle right away. After that, you can better plan your in‐depth exploration. Free Guided Tours generally leave every 30 minutes throughout the day, but the schedule can vary, depending on staffing levels and weather conditions.

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Jewels & Stone First! The complementary Guided Tour ends at the very top of Edinburgh Castle, in the Crown Square, outside the Royal Palace that contains the Honors of Scotland. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honours_of_Scotland Outlanderites interested in viewing the fabulous Crown Jewels of Scotland—the oldest Royal Regalia in Britain—and the infamous Stone of Destiny, should head to that exhibit immediately after the complementary Guided Tour. Throughout any day of the year, the queue for entry to the Crown Jewels can grow to exceed an hour of wait time. The sooner you go there, the less time you’ll spend waiting in line to reach them.

During the peak tourist season, there are two Royal Palace entrances for viewing the Crown Jewels and the Stone of Destiny—part of an effort to minimize the wait time. The year‐round Royal Palace entrance leads to a passage that meanders through a relatively humdrum (according to reviews) palace museum before actually reaching the jewels. The extra summer entrance skips the museum and leads directly to the jewels.

[©2009 Nilfanion segment (enhanced)] [©2011 GSB Photography segment (enhanced)]

 Door #1 (above) is the year‐round entrance to the Royal Palace. This is the route that takes you through the museum, culminating with the Crown Jewels of Scotland and Stone of Destiny. It is located outside the Crown Square, on the north face of the Royal Palace.  Door #2 is the peak tourist season secondary entrance that skips the museum and leads directly to the Jewels and Stone. It is located within the Crown Square, at the base of the Royal Palace Clock Tower. [Thank you to Kelly Duhigg of Girl With The Passport for bringing this to our attention! https://www.girlwiththepassport.com/edinburgh‐castle‐guide/]

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Craigmillar Castle (Site #48) Preston Mill (Site # 51) Roslin Glen Ruins (Site #53) [See also: Prestonpans Battlefield (Site #49), Gosford House (Site #50), Glencorse Old Kirk (Site #52)]

Our Last Outlandish Edinburgh Plan of Attack Tip: Whether visiting Outlander sites near Edinburgh (above) Before or After visiting the city, Schedule at least TWO Days to Enjoy the City of Edinburgh  Dedicate one day to a morning Edinburgh Castle visit, followed by a downhill stroll along the Royal Mile, stopping at the Outlander film sites and novel locations (Sites #40 through #45). [Anticipate your Royal Mile Outlander visit lasting at least 3.5 hours.]  On another day, tour Holyrood Palace (Site #46) in the morning, followed by one or two Non‐ Outlander Edinburgh places or activities. [See our our Non‐Outlander Edinburgh Places of Interest PDF http://OutlandishScotland.com/NonOutlanderEdSites.pdf]. If you’re interested in a Hop‐on/off‐Bus tour, make this your first day’s itinerary. [See our Edinburgh Hop‐on/off‐Bus Tours PDF. http://OutlandishScotland.com/EdinburghHopOnOffBuses.pdf]  Consider enjoying one of the Edinburgh evening walking tours the night before your second day, as discussed in our Edinburgh Old Town Walking Tours PDF. http://OutlandishScotland.com/EdinburghWalkingTours.pdf

If you only have one day to tour the city, you’ll need at least half of that day to visit the Outlander film sites and novel locations along the Royal Mile. This means you must choose between touring Edinburgh Castle or Holyrood Palace. After reading the Holyrood Palace (Site #46) chapter, you’ll be better able to decide which option is best for you.

To see additional site photos, go to the Edinburgh and Edinburgh Castle boards on our Outlandish Scotland Journey Pinterest Site: https://www.pinterest.com/chasOSJ/edinburgh/ https://www.pinterest.com/chasOSJ/edinburgh‐castle/

OutlanderLinks All website addresses found in this chapter are available in the Site #39 OutlanderLinks PDF, posted free of charge on the Part 5 OutlanderLinks directory of our website. http://OutlandishScotland.com/39OutlanderLinks.pdf Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 10

Updated Edinburgh information that becomes available after Outlandish Scotland Journey is published will also be posted in this directory.

Time & Travel: Edinburgh Castle Visiting Time No less than two hours are required to enjoy the most popular castle highlights. As we described above, a four‐to‐five hour visit would be best.

The Edinburgh Castle website offers a variety of itinerary suggestions. https://www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk/visit/itineraries

Their “Just an Hour” itinerary, however, is extraordinarily misleading. Not only is the map on that page inaccurate, it would be impossible to visit all the sites listed on that itinerary in one hour—even if you stopped at each site for only 5 minutes and sprinted between them! Realistically, 1 hour allows time to enjoy the exterior‐only, 30‐minute Guided Tour … snap some pix of the views … and quickly visit one of the shops. If timed correctly, the hour can begin or end with the One o’Clock Gun ceremony. If you view the One o’Clock Gun ceremony, however, you’ll not have time to enjoy the 30‐minute Guided Tour. Bottom Line: If you only have 1 hour at Edinburgh Castle, why oh why would you want to pay the full admission fee? Instead, snap some pix from the Castle Esplanade and then visit the Portcullis Shop, located in the Lower Ward. Both of these areas are open to the public, free of charge.

Edinburgh Castle Hours of Operation  The Castle opens daily at 9:30am. Except for January 1st, when it opens at 11am.  April 1st through September 30th; closing time is 6pm, last entry at 5pm.  October 1st through March 31st; closing time is 5pm, last entry at 4pm.  The Castle is closed on December 25th and 26th.

Public Transportation Directions The Edinburgh Castle website has a Getting Here page: https://www.edinburghcastle.gov.uk/visit/getting‐here

Additionally, see our Edinburgh Planning Directory for  Edinburgh Public Buses information http://OutlandishScotland.com/EdinburghPublicBuses.pdf  Edinburgh Hop‐on/off‐Buses information http://OutlandishScotland.com/EdinburghHopOnOffBuses.pdf Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 11

 Edinburgh Taxis information http://OutlandishScotland.com/EdinburghTaxis.pdf

Driving Directions See the Edinburgh Driving and Parking PDF, posted free of charge on the Edinburgh Planning directory (accessed from the Part 5 OutlanderLinks section of our website). http://OutlandishScotland.com/EdinburghDrivingParking.pdf

Tweeddale Court: Site #41

Outlander Season Three Film Site

[©2018 Andreé Poppleton: Twitter @poppy53; IG @poppytop53; outlandercast.com segments (enhanced)]

Approximately 3 blocks east of the Signet Library (Site #40) and St Giles Cathedral, on the south side of the Royal Mile, you’ll find the elaborately painted entrance to Tweeddale Court. “Walking down the narrow passageway [to Tweeddale Court] you emerge through a pair of iron gates into a courtyard, with Tweeddale House right in front of you. The building is something of an architectural detective story, changed and adapted many times over the years. Inside are the remains of a carved doorway dated 1576, with the initials of perhaps the first owner, Neil Lang and his wife Elizabeth Danielstoune. … Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 12

“The building came by its present name in 1670 when it was bought by the Marquess of Tweeddale, a senior adviser to King Charles II. … “In the 1700s though, the house seems to have gone into decline, and in 1750 the architects John and Robert Adam even suggested its demolition.

[Outlander Season 3 screenshot (enhanced)] [STARZ Behind‐the‐Scenes segment (enhanced)]

In episode 306, “A. Malcolm,” Tweeddale Court is seen when Jamie and Claire journey through a bustling Edinburgh market while en route from Carfax Close to the World’s End Pub. It was here that Claire and Fergus were reunited. Claire passed through the same bustling Edinburgh market in episode 307, “Crème de Menthe,” on her way to meet and diagnose Margaret Campbell.

[Pre‐filming set photo ©2017 hamiltonandyoung.co.uk] [Season 3 screenshot (enhanced)]

Tweeddale Court was literally jam‐packed full of set pieces and props, with scores of costumed extras milling about, selling and purchasing a wide variety of wares while the camera rolled. Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 13

Obviously, all of these items (and people) are now long gone, and Tweeddale Court looks little like it did on screen. In spite of this, we gave Tweeddale Court a Great Site rating because it is so easy to reach, and its history is so tangible when you visit. In fact, it is only in the absence of the props and costumed extras that you can appreciate two of the most interesting historical aspects of Tweeddale Court.

[©2009 Jonathan Oldenbuck segment (enhanced)]

To see additional site photos, go to the Tweeddale Court board on our Outlandish Scotland Journey Pinterest Site: https://www.pinterest.com/chasOSJ/tweeddale‐court/

OutlanderLinks All website addresses found in this chapter are available in the Site #41 OutlanderLinks PDF, posted free of charge on the Part 5 OutlanderLinks directory of our website. http://OutlandishScotland.com/41OutlanderLinks.pdf Updated Tweeddale Court information that becomes available after Outlandish Scotland Journey is published will also be posted in this directory.

Time & Travel: Tweeddale Court Visiting Time A film‐site‐pix‐only Tweeddale Court visit can be accomplished in 30 minutes. We suggest scheduling an hour here, however, allowing ample time to soak up the 17th and 18th century ambience of this historic site. Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 14

Please Note: Tweeddale Court is home to active businesses, as well as private residences. It is important that all Outlanderites be as polite as possible when visiting. It only takes one noisy or disrespectful fan to ruin the reception received by all those who visit thereafter. Please be the very best Outlander Ambassador you can be.

Hours of Operation Tweeddale Court is a public area, thus it is “open” every day of the year. Please visit only during daylight hours.

Admission Fees As a public area, there is no admission fee for visiting Tweeddale Court.

Accessibility Tweeddale Court is fully accessible from The Royal Mile, although its slate‐paved archway and street may be slippery when wet.

[©2017 Google Street View image segment (enhanced)]

Finding Tweeddale Court When walking downhill on the Royal Mile (from Edinburgh Castle), Tweeddale Court is approximately 3 blocks east of the Signet Library (Site #40) and St Giles Cathedral, on the south side of High Street. Just before reaching St Mary’s Street, Tweeddale Court’s brightly painted entrance cannot be missed. If walking west on the Royal Mile (uphill from Holyrood Palace), you’ll find the entrance to Tweeddale Court just beyond the World’s End Pub (Site #42) and the World’s End Close entrance.

Driving Directions See the Edinburgh Driving and Parking PDF, posted free of charge on the Edinburgh Planning directory (accessed from the Part 5 OutlanderLinks section of our website). http://OutlandishScotland.com/EdinburghDrivingParking.pdf

… Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 15

White Horse Close: Site #45

A Minor Novel Location Jacobite Officers’ Headquarters During the ‘45

[©2016 Google Street View image segment (enhanced)] The White Horse Close entryway building (above, left) and the north wall of the Scottish Parliament Building (above, right), as seen when approaching from the west.

The last Outlandish stop when walking west (downhill) on Edinburgh’s Royal Mile is White Horse Close. [It’s the first stop if you elect to walk east on the Royal Mile, uphill from Holyrood Palace (Site #46).]

The entrance to White Horse Close is found in the center of a relatively nondescript building at the foot (east end) of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile, directly across from the distinctive Canongate Wall. “Beneath Building façade [on the modern Scottish Parliament Building’s north side] is the Canongate Wall, constructed from a variety of indigenous Scottish rocks such as Lewisian gneiss, Torridonian sandstone and Easdale slate. The stones are set into large concrete casts, each one inscribed with a quotation. The Canongate Wall contains a total of 24 quotations. Etched along the lower stretch of the wall is a pictorial representation of the Old Town of Edinburgh‐based around a sketch by Enric Miralles showing the view of the Old Town from his bedroom window in the Balmoral Hotel.” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scottish_Parliament_Building

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[©2016 Google Street View image segment (enhanced)]

It is the center, thinner and taller, of the 5 archways fronting the Royal Mile side of this building that leads to White Horse Close.

Why is White Horse Close Important to Outlanderites? After going to Craigh na Dun and successfully traveling back in time from 1968 to 1766, White Horse Close is where Claire disembarked the coach that bore her from Inverness to Edinburgh (Voyager, chapter 24, “A. Malcolm, Printer”). Furthermore, this is where Claire would have reached the Royal Mile in 1766—only a block or two east of where she caught the sleeve of a passing baker’s boy and asked directions to A. Malcolm’s print shop. Thus, the baker‐boy’s directions to the fictional Carfax Close provided in the novel just happen to be accurate directions to the location of its real‐world film site—Bakehouse Close (Site #44).

Another (admittedly minor) Point of Interest for Outlanderites: “Tradition maintains that Jacobite officers were billeted in [White Horse Close] during Charles Edward Stuartʹs occupation of nearby Holyrood Palace during the Jacobite Rebellion of 1745.” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_Horse_Close

[©2014 G Stewart segment (enhanced)] Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 17

White Horse Close is named for an inn that once was located at its northern end. (The building seen at center, above.) “The building bears the date 1632, but this is believed to have been carved when it was restored [for the first time] in the 1930s, the tablet being altered from displaying the more implausible date of 1532. In his Views of Edinburgh, published around 1820, the English engraver James Storer gave the date as 1683, which is more in keeping with the late 17th‐century architectural style of the buildings.” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_Horse_Close

Craigmillar Castle: Site #48

An Outlander Season Three Film Site: Ardsmuir Prison

[©2006 Jonathan Oldenbuck segment (enhanced)

Located a mere three miles southeast of Edinburgh’s city centre, Craigmillar Castle is often referred to as “Edinburgh’s Other Castle.” “[Craigmillar Castle is] one of the most completely preserved medieval castles in Scotland. “Craigmillar began life as the tower house that still forms the core of the castle. This was constructed around 1400, probably by Sir George Preston, one of a line of Prestons who played a large part in civic life in Edinburgh over several hundred years. Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 18

“It was his grandson Sir William Preston who, in the 1440s, was responsible for Craigmillar’s most notable feature. He added the curtain wall that surrounds the tower house on three sides and creates the inner courtyard. In about 1510 Sir Simon Preston added a further layer of enclosure, erecting outer walls to form the outer yard and east and west gardens. “Craigmillar Castle was captured by the English in May 1544 with its laird (another) Sir Simon Preston, who was also Provost of Edinburgh at the time.” https://www.undiscoveredscotland.co.uk/edinburgh/craigmillarcastle/index.html

We highly recommend reading Undiscovered Scotland’s condensed history of Craigmillar Castle (link above). For a more in‐depth account, see the Wikipedia Craigmillar Castle webpage link below. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Craigmillar_Castle

An even more condensed history of Craigmillar Castle is found on its Historic Environment Scotland website. “Royal Guest Turned Prisoner “Queen Mary’s Room, on the first floor of the [Craigmillar Castle] tower house, is where Mary Queen of Scots is said to have slept in 1566. But it’s more likely that she had a multi‐ roomed apartment when she stayed at Craigmillar, probably in the east range. “Owner Sir Simon Preston was a loyal supporter of Mary, who had appointed him Provost of Edinburgh. Ironically, he would become her jailer for her first night as a prisoner after her capture in 1567. Mary was taken from his townhouse in the High Street to Lochleven Castle the next day.” https://www.historicenvironment.scot/visit‐a‐place/places/craigmillar‐castle/history/

BTW: Craigmillar is pronounced “KRAIG‐mill‐ah” or “KRAIG‐mill‐er.”

[Outlander Season 3 screenshot segment (enhanced)]

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Outlander Season 3, episode 3, “All Debts Paid,” filming took place at Craigmillar Castle in September of 2016. The scenes shot here were part of Jamie’s post‐Culloden story, based on Diana Gabaldon’s third novel, Voyager. After hiding in a cave near Lallybroch for 7 years [The Dun Bonnet Cave (Site #17)], Jamie arranged for one of his tenants to “turn him in” to the English so that the reward for his capture would go to those who lived on the estate, and save them from starving. (On screen, it was his sister, Jenny, who had to play Judas.) Once captured, Jamie was taken to Ardsmuir Prison—a fictional prison found in a barren area of northern Scotland. Below is an episode 303 synopsis segment. “Jamie is serving time in Ardsmuir Prison, where he is the leader and spokesman for the Scottish prisoners. His uneasy relationship with the new governor, an adult John Grey, evolves into friendship.” https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Outlander_episodes

Craigmillar Castle receives a Great Site rating because it is so easy to recognize the places where Ardsmuir Prison scenes were shot—even though the few props and set pieces (and the army of costumed extras) are long gone. Compare this chapter’s header photo with the Ardsmuir Prison title screenshot above. Although a smidgen of architectural CGI magic was employed during post‐production, there is no mistaking the fact that Craigmillar Castle is Ardsmuir Prison.

[Outlander Season 3 screenshot segment (enhanced)]

After passing through the 15th century castle gate and reaching Craigmillar’s Inner Courtyard, it also is easy to recognize the Ardsmuir Prison courtyard—as evidenced by the screenshot above and the site photo below.

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[©2017 Kevin Addies walkingtalkingblog.wordpress.com/2017/05/21/craigmillar‐castle/ (enhanced)]

You can learn about the venerable Yew Trees found in Craigmillar Castle’s Inner Courtyard (often seen onscreen) at the link below. https://www.scotsman.com/news/craigmillar‐castle‐and‐the‐yew‐trees‐of‐mary‐queen‐of‐scots‐1‐ 4613483

Exploring Craigmillar Castle—aka getting lost in it—would be fantastic fun even were it not an Outlander film site. “Craigmillar Castle is one of the most complete medieval castles in Scotland. Although some sections lack a roof and the interiors are gutted, it otherwise shows off some of the best examples of castellated architecture I’ve ever seen. With two layers of walls, a central keep, numerous gun and arrow slits, machicolations, a wall‐walk, armorial panels and much more, Craigmillar is brimming with medieval and Renaissance‐era features.” http://castlehunter.scot/portfolio/craigmillar‐castle/

“The castle is massive and quite a maze, so even though I spent a good two hours exploring it, I can’t be sure I saw everything. There wasn’t a free guide to the castle, not even one of those folding paper maps with a ground plan that you usually get at locations like this, and there were no handy ‘you are here’ maps inside either. … “On the other hand it was fun to get lost in the castle. There were few other visitors there [in September of 2017], so I could wander around mostly alone trying to imagine the bare stone walls with torches and wall hangings, the nobles walking up and down the narrow staircases, and guests getting lost in the maze like castle. “Actually, there was one particular winding stone staircase in a corner tower that was so narrow, and without a helpful rope hanging on the inside curve, that I deemed it too hazardous to walk down. “It is rather surprising that there aren’t a huge number of stories of promising nobles’ lives cut short by them falling down a staircase when going to the kitchens for some midnight kibble.” http://www.footprintsandfotos.com/craigmillar‐castle/ Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 21

FYI: Subsequent to Outlander simply filming at Craigmillar Castle in September of 2016, the volume of visitors to Craigmillar Castle increased by 42%. https://www.scotsman.com/news/visitor‐numbers‐to‐scottish‐castles‐booming‐due‐to‐outlander‐ effect‐1‐4579459 Now that episode 303 has actually aired (September 24th, 2017), the castle’s visitor volume is likely to grow even larger. Thus, it is possible that castle signage may be improved in the near future, and probable that you may encounter crowded conditions when visiting during the peak tourist season—June through September.

[Season 3 screenshot segment (enhanced)] [©2014 Susan Smeder ssmeder.com segment (enhanced)]

As you wander through Craigmillar Castle, watch for the passageways traversed by Lord John Grey while being given a tour of Ardsmuir by his predecessor, Colonel Harry Quarry, in episode 303.

[Outlander Season 3 screenshot (enhanced)] Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 22

Based on the architecture seen in the screenshot above, we believe that the room where Jamie interviewed the dying Duncan Kerr also was filmed at Craigmillar Castle. In fact, we are convinced that this film site is the northernmost East Range Cellar room—the room accessed from the widest doorway leading off of the Inner Courtyard.

[Outlander Season 3 screenshot segments (enhanced)]

Another Ardsmuir Prison location not found in Craigmillar Castle is the Warden’s quarters occupied by Lord John Grey. We know this was a soundstage set because of the room’s rectangular stone block construction—a style completely different from Craigmillar Castle’s architecture. Also, there is a fire in the room’s fireplace and flaming candles on the walls. According to Outlander production designer Jon Gary Steele: “When we shoot at historical locations that are hundreds of years old, they do not want fires in the fireplaces or sconces with flames on the walls, so we build and film most of the interiors on our soundstages.“ https://ascmag.com/articles/outlander‐love‐is‐a‐battlefield

After enjoying Craigmillar Castle’s maze of rooms and passageways, and marveling at the magnificent views from its battlements, find your way back to the ground floor’s Inner Courtyard. Exit via the Inner Courtyard’s arched gate and turn left. Walk west along the north face of Craigmillar’s 15th century curtain wall until you reach the wall’s northwest tower. There, you’ll find a rectangular iron gate (braced open during visiting hours) that leads into the West Garden. Pass through the gate and do an about‐face.

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[Outlander Season 3 screenshot (enhanced)] [©2016 McVagabonds.com (enhanced)]

You’ll be standing on the spot where Jamie returned to Ardsmuir Prison after having escaped to look for Claire on the seals’ island—the spot where he surrendered to Lord John Grey and asked to be executed.

[Underlying plan ©2008 Jonathan Oldenbuck]

Above is a Craigmillar Castle plan we’ve augmented to identify the Outlander film sites. Below is the film site location key.

Public Transportation Directions  Go to Traveline Scotland’s website. https://www.travelinescotland.com/ Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 24

 For your destination, type in, “Craigmillar, Near Craigmillar Castle Road on Peffermill Road.” This is the bus stop nearest to Craigmillar Castle’s Visitor Centre.  After disembarking the bus, walk east on Peffermill Road to Craigmillar Castle Road (less than half a block).  Turn right and walk south on Craigmillar Castle Road.  After approximately 10 minutes (half a mile), you’ll see the small “Monument Car Park” for Craigmillar Castle on your right.  Turn right and walk through the car park to the Craigmillar Castle Visitor Centre.

Craigmillar Castle Driving Directions Address: Craigmillar Castle Road, Edinburgh EH16 4SY Car Park Entrance Coordinates: 55.926175, ‐3.138366

The small Craigmillar Castle car park has only 9 regular parking spaces and 1 accessible parking space. If the “Outlander Effect” results in the car park being full when you visit:  Drive north on Craigmillar Castle Road to the first intersection, and turn left on Castle Brae Avenue.  Street parking is available on the south side of Castle Brae Avenue.  It is a 7 minute walk from the Castle Brae Avenue intersection back to the Craigmillar Castle car park and Visitor Centre.

Castle Brae Avenue Intersection Coordinates: 55.930082, ‐3.139943

Gosford House: Site #50

An Outlander Season 2 & 3 Film Site A House with a Surprising Bonnie Prince Charlie Relationship

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[©2014 Andy Sweet www.stravaiging.com segment (enhanced)] The Western Face of Gosford House

Gosford House is situated within 5,000 acres of picturesque parkland in East Lothian, including a section of the southern shore of the Firth of Forth. It has been the seat of the Earls of Wemyss (“WEEMZ”) and March—the Charteris family—for centuries. http://www.gosfordhouse.co.uk

David Ross, Publisher and Editor of Britain Express, posted an excellently abbreviated history of Gosford House on December 8th, 2012. “Gosford House is a magnificent neoclassical house rebuilt in 1890 by architect William Young for the 10th Earl of Wemyss after an earlier Robert Adam design had been demolished. The main feature is a superb 3 storey high Marble Hall with a double staircase, central dome and ornate plasterwork. The interiors are a mix of Adam’s original neoclassical elegance and the 10th Earl’s Italianate tastes. “The original [‘New’] Gosford House was one of the last projects undertaken by Robert Adam before his death in 1792. The house, designed for the 7th Earl, was not actually completed until 1800, some 8 years after Adam’s death. The 8th Earl wasted no time in knocking down Adam’s wings, but the 10th Earl had them rebuilt. “The British Army occupied Gosford during the Second World War and managed to burn down the main rooms of the central block. You can still see the marks made by the fire on some of the gilded mirrors in one of the rooms. “The state rooms are full of fine art, but it is, without a doubt, the striking Marble Hall which will live long in your memory after a visit.” http://www.britainexpress.com/attractions.htm?attraction=1220

To read a detailed history of Gosford House (including information about the “Old” Gosford House—demolished in 1885, and now a rubble pile next to the old stables—visit the Historic Environment Scotland link below. http://portal.historicenvironment.scot/designation/GDL00200 Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 26

Gosford House receives a Might‐Be‐Fun rating because:  Access to the primary interior film sites is only available for one hour on each of 25 days per year.  The 25 Gosford House “Public Open Days” are offered on select Thursdays through Mondays, five times between the end of March and the end of August.  On a Public Open Day, adult entry to Gosford House costs only £8.  No photography is allowed inside the house.  Two Outlander film sites are off‐limits, even on Public Open Days.

Why not a Skip It rating?  On almost every day of the year, you can purchase a permit allowing you to freely wander the Gosford House grounds. It costs only £1.  If the dates of your holiday happen to coincide with a Public Open Day, and it is convenient to your Outlandish itinerary, Gosford House is a great place to visit.

[©2014 Andy Sweet segment (enhanced)] [Outlander Season 2 screenshot (enhanced)]

Exterior Gosford House Film Sites Gosford House was first seen on screen in episode 5 of Outlander Season 2, “Untimely Resurrection.” The western lawn of the house was transformed into the lawn of Versailles, during a horse show. As you can see when comparing the screenshot above right, to the central western face photo above left—and this chapter’s header photo—from the first floor balcony down to the ground, everything seen on screen is exactly as it exists in the real‐world—apart from the Outlandish set pieces, props, and costumed people, of course. Only the upper floors of Gosford House’s western face were digitally altered to make the building look more like the Palace of Versailles in France.

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[Outlander Season 2 screenshot (enhanced)] [©2003 RCAHMS segment (enhanced)

Also in episode 205, Claire and Jamie’s old flame, Annalise de Marillac, strolled through the Gardens of Versailles together. Those scenes were filmed at Drummond Castle Gardens (Site #29). Upon completing their stroll, however, the ladies exited the gardens via a gate at Gosford House. For filming, the Gosford House wrought iron gates were painted a shiny copper color, the crowns at each panel’s center were gilded, and a couple of topiary‐topped urns were installed next to them. Apart from that, this gate looks exactly as it did on screen.

The Helwater Manor vs Ellesmere Manor Conundrum Several Internet resources erroneously identify Hopetoun House (Site #37) as having played the Dunsany family’s Helwater Manor in Season 3’s 4th episode, “Of Lost Things,” describing Gosford House as playing Ellesmere Manor in that episode. In reality, each of these stately Scottish manors were used to film both Helwater and Ellesmere locations for episode 304.

Hopetoun House was used to film:  The main entrance to Ellesmere Manor  The Helwater Manor stables  One Helwater Manor interior setting

Gosford House was used to film:  The main entrance to Helwater Manor  All Ellesmere Manor interior settings

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Gosford House Interior Film Sites All but one of the Ellesmere Manor interior scenes were shot within the glorious Marble Hall of Gosford House. “Inside, the building exceeds the expectations raised by its elegant exterior. The Marble Hall, in the south wing, is arguably the most arresting of its many fine features. It was completed in 1891 by William Young for the tenth Earl of Wemyss and rises to a height of three storeys, with a magnificent double staircase leading to a surrounding picture gallery. The elaborate fireplace, alabaster colonnades and ornate plasterwork reflect the strong Italianate taste of the tenth Earl, while the Palladian screen of Venetian windows are reminiscent of Adam’s original designs.” http://www.gosfordhouse.co.uk/house‐tours‐grounds/

[Outlander screenshot segment (enhanced)] [Internet‐posted pic ©unknown (enhanced)]

Above left, Isobel and her maid are rushing through Ellesmere Manor to reach the bedside of her sister, Geneva, who has just given birth. If you look closely, you’ll notice that much of the real‐world furniture found in the area of the Marble Hall’s ground floor fireplace was left in place for filming.

[Outlander Season 3 screenshot (enhanced)] Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 29

After learning that Geneva’s child was a healthy boy—that he had a son—Jamie was wandering the estate his son would someday inherit. The loggia is where he discovered Isobel Dunsany in tears.

Please Note: The statue‐lined loggia beneath the western balcony of Gosford House (a Season 3 film site) is not included on the Public Open Day tour. Access to the enclosed lawn on the western side of Gosford House—the Season 2 Versailles film site—also is not allowed on a Public Open Day. If the majority of those in your tour group are Outlander fans, however, it wouldn’t hurt to ask for an escort to these areas! Guides may be willing to deviate from the standard tour if enough interest is shown.

The Outlandish Gosford Grounds Tour Conundrum The Gosford Grounds & Policies map identifies two series of public paths on the estate: the Ponds Walk and the Dowager’s (“Dowdy”) Walk. Unfortunately, none of these paths lead to a place where you can view the exterior Gosford House film sites.

Thanks to Google Maps UK (above), we know that there are several additional paths on the estate— established drives and lanes—that do lead around the house. Thanks to online visitor blogs and a YouTube video, we also know that people have walked these paths on Non‐Open‐House days. Based on this information, we developed a map identifying a route that would allow Outlanderites to view both sides of the house—from a respectful distance—on Non‐Open‐House days. Unfortunately, our suggested route was soundly rejected. According to the estate representative with whom we corresponded: “The map that comes with the [Grounds] permit and that is on our website indicates the paths that are open to the public. Gosford House and the estate is a private residence which is why these paths have been selected—to allow access to the public whilst maintaining privacy for the owners. Please do not augment this map with additional paths. Thank you.”

We certainly do not wish to trespass upon the privacy of the Charteris family, or disturb the privacy of others who live and work on the estate! But, there’s another conundrum.  Those who purchase a Public Open Day ticket are granted access to the grounds after the tour.  The Gosford House Pleasure Grounds & Policies map does not provide directions for reaching the public grounds paths from the Public Open Day car park (the courtyard at the south end of the house).

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Thus, we created the Gosford House guide seen below. This map is intended to assist those visiting on a Public Open House day. It contains a few numbered sites that correspond with the Gosford Grounds & Policies map, to help you find your way. It also identifies the exterior Outlander film sites.

[Underlying map segment ©2018 Google Maps UK (enhanced)]

Map Key:

Driving Directions On Non‐Open‐House days, go to the Gosford Bothy Farm Shop. Coordinates: 56.003715, ‐2.871083 Address: Gosford Bothy Farm Shop, Gosford, Longniddry EH32 0PX

On Public Open Days, go to the North Lodge Gate. Coordinates: 55.998299, ‐2.884519 Address: Gosford House, Longniddry EH32 0PX, UK … Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 31

Roslin Glen Ruins: Site #53

An Outlander Season One Film Site

Approximately 8 miles south of Edinburgh, just beyond the village of Roslin, is the Roslin Glen Country Park. It contains a wonderful wooded glen that flanks the twisting, turning River North Esk. Settled by the Bronze Age, Roslin Glen is the largest surviving tract of ancient woodland in the Council area of Scotland. Over two hundred species of flowering plants and sixty species of breeding birds have been recorded here.

Footage for Outlander episode 109, “The Reckoning,” was shot next to the Old Mill Lade ruins at the glen’s southwestern end—the building where the mill’s gigantic water wheel was mounted.

[Outlander Season 1 screenshot segment (enhanced)]

When the Old Mill Lade ruins were seen on screen, Jamie and his merry band of MacKenzies had just risked life and limb to rescue Claire from Fort William—plucking her from the evil clutches of Black Jack Randall. This is where they rested their horses, and where Jamie and Claire had the first major fight of their marriage. Jamie: Are you all right? Randall. He, he didna hurt you?

Claire: No, he didn’t have time, thanks to you.

Jamie: I’m waiting for you to say something, anything that approaches an apology. Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 32

Claire: An apology? I was taken hostage by Jack Randall. Are you trying to say that’s somehow my fault?

Jamie: Well, it is your fault. Had you stayed put where I ordered you to stay, none of this would have happened. Ah, but no. … Why mind me? I am no but yer husband. Ye take it into yer mind to do as ye damn please, and next I ken, I find ye flat on yer back with yer skirts up and the worst scum of the land between yer legs about to take ye before my very eyes.

Claire: I begged you to take me with you. I told you there was no danger in me going along. Would you listen to me? No. No, I’m only a woman. … As long as I’m there to warm your bed, you don’t care what I think or how I feel. That’s all a wife is to you, something to stick your cock into whenever you feel the urge.

[©2012 Gavin Nicholson segment (enhanced)] [Outlander Season 1 screenshot segment (enhanced)]

The scene where Jamie collapsed in frustration and despair, exclaiming, “Ye’re tearing my guts out, Claire!” was shot in a little nook formed by what once was the mill’s tailrace.

The Roslin Glen Ruins Outlander film site earns a Great Site rating because it looks exactly as it did on screen, and can be visited quickly—60 to 90 minutes should suffice. That said, the greatest challenge when planning your Roslin Glen Ruins visit is this: How could you possibly come so close to Rosslyn Chapel and the Rosslyn Castle Ruins without also seeing those sites?!

If you can afford to spend an additional 2 or 3 hours in the Roslin area, visit the links included in the sections below to learn more about Rosslyn Chapel and Rosslyn Castle.

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[©2015 Rosslyn Chapel Trust segment (enhanced)] …

Time & Travel: Roslin Glen Ruins Visiting Time  The Roslin Glen Ruins film site: 60 to 90 minutes  Rosslyn Chapel: 2 hours (this includes a quick trip to the visitor centre and shop)  Rosslyn Castle: 60 to 90 minutes

Hours of Operation Roslin Glen and public portions of the Rosslyn Castle ruins are accessible from sunrise to sunset, every day of the year.

Rosslyn Chapel Hours of Operation https://www.rosslynchapel.com/visit/  June through August: Mondays to Saturdays, 9:30am to 6pm Sundays, 12 noon to 4:45pm  September through May: Mondays to Saturdays, 9:30am to 5pm Sundays, 12 noon to 4:45pm  Last admission is 30 minutes before closing.  The Chapel and Visitor Centre are closed on December 24th & 25th, December 31st & January 1st.  Rosslyn Chapel is a working church and may close occasionally for weddings or funerals. Details regarding special closures (including those related to weather) are posted on the Chapel’s Facebook page. Be sure to check their Facebook site the evening before your visit. https://www.facebook.com/RosslynChapelTrust … Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 Sample 34

Additional Rosslyn Chapel Information:  Rosslyn Chapel Guides give informative talks throughout the day, providing an introduction to the Chapel’s history and main carvings. These usually are scheduled at the following times; 10am, 11am, 12:15pm, 2pm, 3pm & 4pm on Mondays through Saturdays. 1pm, 2pm & 3pm on Sundays.  Free leaflets, which include maps showing the main carvings, are available in English, French, German, Spanish, Italian, Dutch, Polish, Russian, Mandarin and Japanese.  Please note that no photography is allowed inside the Chapel, as this can distract and inconvenience other visitors. There is no restriction on exterior photography for personal use.  An audio guide is available for visually impaired visitors. Please ask for the audio description handset on arrival.  An audio guide with a signed tour of the chapel is also available for visitors who use BSL.  No dogs, apart from assistance dogs, are allowed in the Chapel, its grounds or visitor centre.

Admission Fees There is no admission fee for visiting Roslin Glen or the public portions of Rosslyn Castle’s ruins.

Rosslyn Chapel (and Visitor Centre) Admission Fees:  Adult: £9  Concession: £7 (Proof may be requested for visitors over 60, the unemployed, students, or members of the Armed Forces.)  Children in a family group: Free

Roslin Glen Maps To help Outlanderites reach the Roslin Glen Ruins film site efficiently, we created an Outlandish Roslin Glen Ruins map. A full page version of the map seen below is posted free of charge on the Part 5 OutlanderLinks directory of our website. http://OutlandishScotland.com/53RoslinGlenMap.pdf

Thus ends the Outlandish Scotland Journey Part 5 eBook SAMPLE. We hope you enjoyed it!