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$2.99 VOLUME 73, NUMBER 49 NOVEMBER 24–30, 2017 THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 72 YEARS Denim Factories Are Struggling to Stay Alive

By Deborah Belgum Senior Editor

Los Angeles has always been the epicenter for manufac- turing blue jeans in the . Major labels such as True Religion, Lucky Brand, Hudson and 7 For All Man- kind built their reputations on that “Made in the USA” ca- chet, which signaled quality and prestige in their premium- denim products. It was a marketing tool that helped manufacturers sell their products to upscale department stores and boutiques around the world catering to a fashionable crowd that didn’t mind paying $200 to $400 for a pair of denim dungarees. But the rise in California and Los Angeles’ minimum wage, a move by blue-jeans owners to beef up profit mar- gins and consumers pulling back on their clothing expense accounts are crushing Los Angeles denim factories. Earlier this month, United Denim Inc. informed state employment officials that it planned by the end of the year to ➥ Denim page 3 J. RYAN ULSH / W HOTELS WORLDWIDE CFDA IN HOLLYWOOD: Designers in the Council of Designers of America’s {Fashion Incubator} program recently Lakers Star Invests In showcased their work at the W Hotel in Hollywood. For more from the event, see page 2. New Brand Butter Cloth Stitch Fix Initial Public Offering By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Former Los Angeles Lakers star Metta World Peace made sports headlines in October when he took a coaching By Andrew Asch Retail Editor footwear and accessories to its members for a fee. job with the South Bay Lakers, the development team for On Aug. 22, Stitch Fix announced that it had added more the NBA organization. San Francisco–headquartered fashion company Stitch than 100 new premium brands to its merchandise mix. Metta World Peace, who was born Ron Artest, recently Fix filed an initial public offering on Nov. 16, releasing 8 Women’s offerings include Alice & Olivia, Helmut Lang, became part of a fashion story. It was recently announced million shares of Class A common stock at a price of $15 Kate Spade, Rebecca Minkoff and Theory. Men’s brands that the hoops star joined Long Beach, Calif., shirting brand per share. It started trading on the NASDAQ Global Select include John Varvatos, Steven Alan, Theory and Todd Butter Cloth as an equity partner. His investment was not Market on Nov. 17 under the symbol SFIX, raised $120 mil- Snyder. disclosed, according to a brand statement. lion and was valued around $1.5 billion, according to media Subscription services such as Stitch Fix remain a good bet In a video statement, Metta World Peace said that he reports. for investors, said Syama Meagher, chief executive officer avoided wearing collared shirts in the past because he did Katrina Lake, Stitch Fix’s chief executive officer, started of Scaling Retail, a Los Angeles–headquartered consulting not feel comfortable in them. “Butter Cloth is one of the the fashion subscription service in 2011. Through computer group. best midday meeting shirts. It’s comfortable. I don’t have to questionnaires and the service’s algorithms and consulta- “Investors will make an ROI as long as Stitch Fix can worry about ripping my shirt. I can wear it with a jacket. I tions with human stylists, Stitch Fix assembles a profile of scale up the back end to adjust to the national audience,” she think it’s brilliant,” he said. fashion likes and dislikes for individual members of Stitch said. “A growing market requires bigger space, distribution Danh Tran, Butter Cloth’s founder, chief executive offi- Fix. The company later ships regular deliveries of clothes, centers and a challenge to standardize the customer.” ● cer and creative director, said that Metta World Peace would ➥ Butter Cloth page 6

Shopify Embeds UPS Services INSIDE: Where fashion gets down to business SM By Andrew Asch Retail Editor talk to a Shopify representative about shipping. The partnership between Shopify and UPS comes as both Shopify recently embedded a suite of UPS services on companies are ramping up for a busy holiday season. UPS its platform. anticipates that it will deliver more than 630 million pack- Now Shopify merchants can use Shopify’s platform to ages between Black Friday and New Year’s Eve. It is an in- manage shipping and will receive savings on UPS rates, ac- crease of more than 10 percent over holiday deliveries last cording to a statement from the cloud-based, multichannel year, according to a UPS statement. commerce platform. Shopify’s software is used by retailers to run their Web, 6 8 “Working with UPS helps level the playing field for small mobile and social-media shops as well as traditional bricks- businesses to compete against larger brands with guaranteed and-mortar boutiques. Schneider joins Komen ... p. 2 delivery times and competitive rates previously unavailable This year, Shopify unveiled the Frenzy mobile app in the Celebrating Brazil in LA ... p. 3 to many small- and medium-sized merchants,” said Maia United States. The Frenzy mobile app gives retailers a forum to Junk Food teams with Levi’s ... p. 7 Benson, Shopify’s head of global shipping and fulfillment. produce “Drop Zones,” or places where they can hold a physi- The platform’s shipping services include UPS 2nd-Day cal market to sell goods. In June, the Anti Social Social Club LA’s “Project Runway” winner ... p. 8 Air and UPS Ground. Tracking and billing are integrated brand produced a Drop Zone in Los Angeles’ Elysian Park. The Made in America Resources ... p. 9 into the platform. Shopify’s UPS deal also will feature a Frenzy app was used to process sales transactions in the drop- dedicated hotline, (833) BFCM-WIN, where businesses can zone area. Payments were made through Apple Pay. ● www.apparelnews.net

01,3,6.cover.indd 1 11/22/17 5:04 PM NEWS Paula Schneider Takes Over as Head of Susan G. Komen After decades of work- les apparel brands—includ- Harvard-trained physician who left as head Big Strike, a juniorswear label in Gardena, ing in the apparel industry, ing Warnaco Swim Group, of the nonprofit at the end of last year. Calif., acquired by the private-investment Paula Schneider is moving American Apparel and Laun- “Paula is respected as a leader who moti- company The Gores Group, based in Bev- her career in a different di- dry by Shelli Segal—is a vates teams to achieve and exceed goals, and erly Hills, Calif. rection by taking over as breast-cancer survivor. She was we are delighted to welcome her to the Su- Nearly two years later, she took over as president and chief execu- diagnosed with breast cancer in san G. Komen team as we move forward to chief executive of American Apparel after tive of Susan G. Komen, 2007 while working at Warna- achieve our bold goal to reduce U.S. breast- the brand’s founder and previous CEO, Dov the world’s largest breast- co and lost her mother to meta- cancer deaths by half by 2026,” said Komen Charney, was fired by the board of directors. cancer organization. static breast cancer in 2010. Board Chair Connie O’Neill. During Schneider’s time there, the company Schneider, who took over “I know from personal ex- Schneider’s long career in the fashion in- filed for bankruptcy twice. The label was the job on Nov. 6, will be re- perience the devastation of dustry began when she created Take Twoo, sold early this year to the Canadian company siding in Dallas, where the Paula Schneider breast cancer and the power a multi-line sales firm that helped launch Gildan Activewear. nonprofit is headquartered. and impact of the Komen mis- BCBGMaxAzria. Later, she became presi- Schneider resigned last year as CEO In her new job, she will be responsible for sion to end it,” she said in a statement. “I dent of sales for nearly a decade at BCBG- of American Apparel to take charge of the strategic direction and daily operations am determined to do all that I can to build MaxAzria until she left to become the presi- three Los Angeles contemporary brands ac- of Komen’s worldwide network, which in- on this iconic organization’s mission to end dent of Laundry by Shelli Segal. quired last year by Delta Galil, an Israeli cludes more than 80 Komen affiliates serv- breast cancer, for everyone and forever.” Nearly five years later, she became presi- clothing company. Those labels were 7 For ing millions of women through community The board of directors for Susan G. Ko- dent of Warnaco Swimwear Group, whose All Mankind, Splendid and Ella Moss. health and education programs. men named Schneider to the post in late brands included Speedo and Calvin Klein. After seven months as the brands’ CEO, The former head of several Los Ange- September. She replaces Dr. Judy Salerno, a Later, she became the chief executive of Schneider left in May.—Deborah Belgum CFDA Hosts Incubator Showcase in Hollywood

The Council of Fashion Designers of in the incubator program have the oppor- fashion looking to creative America returned to the W Hotel in Holly- tunity to travel to key markets around the fashion capitals outside of wood for a Nov. 16 showcase featuring de- country, including Los Angeles, for the last NYC.” signers in the CFDA {Fashion Incubator} stop on the tour. The incubator designers program. The designers were mentored by image met with media, influencers, This year’s showcase included contem- architect Law Roach. retailers and other guests in porary women’s label Alix, menswear line “I moved to LA four years ago,” he said a space in The Loft at the Ddugoff, handbag collection Haerfest, in a CFDA statement. “I felt that LA would W Hollywood. Each collec- jewelry line K/ller Collection, and hat and soon become the next major hub for the fash- tion was given a dedicated handbag brand Yestadt Millinery. ion industry. Of course, New York is known as display space and each was The CFDA {Fashion Incubator} program the fashion capital, but Los Angeles’ fashion modeled by each label’s is a 5-year-old partnership between the New scene is evolving and getting stronger. The LA ambassador. For Ddugoff, York organization and W Hotels. Designers showcase is a great example of the future of it was Austin and Aaron Rhodes. Haerfest’s ambas- sador was Taylr Anne, K/ ller was modeled by Thania Peck, Alix by Kristen Noel Crawley and Yestadt Milli- nery by Marta Pozzan. —Alison A. Nieder J. RYAN ULSH / W HOTELS WORLDWIDE INCUBATOR DESIGNERS: Brothers Tim and Dan Joo of Haerfest, Katie deGuzman of K/ller, Daniel Dugoff of Ddugoff, Molly Yestadt of Yestadt Millinery, and Alexandra Alvarez of Alix

The Alix collection on models and brand ambassador Kristen Noel (center)

Ddugoff worn by model K/ller Collection on models and (center) and brand brand ambassador Thania Peck ambassadors Austin and (center) Aaron Rhodes

Image Architect and Designer Mentor Law Roach with Ddugoff designer Daniel Dugoff Yestadt Millinery handbag Haerfest

2 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS NOVEMBER 24–30, 2017 APPARELNEWS.NET

02.news.indd 2 11/22/17 5:19 PM EVENTS Brazilian-LA Connection at Fashion Panel

It was a call that every American red carpet–gown label November 2016. Since then, Vergara has been photographed ion consultant Kim Krempien. in America is waiting for: a personal request from an A-list shopping at the boutique and wearing the label at premieres. Having a Hollywood connection is crucial for a red-car- star. But in this case, Sofia Vergara was calling a Brazilian Waterai told the story at a Nov. 17 panel called “Brazilian pet label, Waterai said. “Having a store here is like having a label. Fashion Now.” The panel discussed Brazilian apparel labels window to the rest of the world,” she said. The “Modern Family” star contacted Brazilian red-carpet doing business in the United States. The panel was held at While Los Angeles and the Brazilian megalopolis of Rio label Martha Medeiros with a request to make a gown for the Brazilian Consulate in Los Angeles. Panelists included de Janeiro both feature influential beach cultures, the panel- her wedding. When the Medeiros executives got off the call, Ilana Kugel and Marcelo Kugel of Koral, the Vernon, Ca- ists said there are big differences between fashion tastes and they had one question: Who’s Sofia Vergara? lif.–based activewear label with Brazilian roots. Also speak- business cultures. Culau said that Brazilians favor bolder After a bit of research into the American entertainment ing was Giovanka Barbosa of the Fabiana Milazzo brand, and more colorful fabrics than Americans. Waterai said Bra- scene, the Martha Medeiros label soon started working with which runs a store at 8476 Melrose Place in West Holly- zilians can be more formal during business discussions than Vergara on a gown for her wedding, said Gabriela Watarai, wood; Julia Culau of the Kalimo fabrics brand, which has an Americans. Aranovich briefly discussed the legal theory of the USA manager for Martha Medeiros. The label opened a office in downtown Los Angeles; and Natalia C. Aranovich trade dress in the U.S. legal system. Marcelo Kugel also shop at 8405 Melrose Place in West Hollywood, Calif., in of Aranovich Law Firm. The panel was moderated by fash- talked about Brazilian tariffs.—Andrew Asch ARYADNE WOODBRIDGE PHOTOGRAPHY PANEL: From left, Natalia Aranovich, Julia Culau, Giovanka Barbosa, Marcelo Kugel, Ilana Kugel, Gabriela Waterai Martha Medeiros designs Sofia Vergara in Martha Medeiros’ and Kim Krempien design

DENIM

Denim Continued from page 1 lifestyle brand last year to the Israeli company Delta Galil. The factory’s biggest clients used to be True Religion and Jeff Rudes and Susie Crippen started J Brand in 2004. Lucky Brand until they went elsewhere. lay off 164 of its approximately 200 employees, who work In 2010, they sold 52 percent of the company for $85 mil- One year ago, the factory was rolling out nearly 3,000 in its south Los Angeles factory. “We are in survival mode,” lion to Star Avenue Capital, which two years later sold a pairs of blue jeans a day. Right now, the company is mak- said Mateo Juarez, the owner of the factory, which has been majority share to the Japanese company Fast Retailing for ing about 1,500 pairs of blue jeans for Diesel, J Brand and making blue jeans since 2009. “We are letting a lot of people about $290 million. Fast Retailing is the parent company of Fear of God. Many companies are only interested in making go. We are taking our last breath.” retailer Uniqlo. 100 to 200 units at a time. “All the big guys are in Mexico Things looked a little brighter three months ago. Juarez These days, new leaders in the executive offices are less now,” he said. “It is hard to find consistent work now in Los was getting inquiries from Gap and Abercrombie & Fitch concerned about that “Made in the USA” label and more con- Angeles.” about moving some of their production from Mexico to the cerned about return on investments. They are shaving costs The change in the Los Angeles denim-manufacturing in- United States because President Trump was threatening to by heading to Mexico, Vietnam and India, where labor costs dustry sounded a death knell last year for American Gar- fine companies producing outside of the United States. But and regulations aren’t as stiff as they are in the United States. ment Sewing in Vernon, Calif. “We used to have a lot of threats of a fine fizzled and blue-jeans makers are moving “Almost all denim here is going out the door,” said Ilse customers, but then it started to shift in 2015,” said Anton out of Los Angeles as the minimum wage, at $12 an hour, is Metchek, president of the California Fashion Association, Pavel, the company’s owner. set to rise to $13.50 an hour by next summer for larger busi- whose members are manufacturers and apparel and fashion- In 2015, the factory—with 200 employees—had about nesses. By 2021, the minimum wage will be at $15 an hour. related companies. “It’s because of minimum wage. Denim 80 percent of its production in blue jeans—mostly for True “If you make blue jeans in China, including the fabric is very labor-intensive.” Religion. Other production was dedicated to army uniforms. washes, it is $6. If you do the same jeans in Mexico, you can Annual revenues totaled about $10 million to $12 million. make it for $10, which includes dropping if off here in Los Singing the blues Last year, the True Religion business dried up and blue Angeles. And if you do it in the U.S.A., you are looking at jeans made up only 20 percent of production for labels such $40 to $50. That’s a big difference,” Juarez explained. Until five years ago, Atomic Denim had 1,000 workers in as Current/Elliott, Joie, Kate Spade and Theory. About He calculates that if you manufacture 100,000 jeans in two Los Angeles factories making blue jeans for mostly True 80 percent of production became army uniforms and the rest Mexico, it will cost $1 million. Make those jeans in Los An- Religion. Today, there is only one factory with 70 to 100 was denim. The employee workforce dropped to 100. “The geles, the price skyrockets to $4 million. The difference is workers who fluctuate with the season in their production big customers in denim moved out, and we tried to move in astronomical and only economically practical if blue jeans for Hudson, Tom Ford and Diesel. more military uniforms, which was a really slow process,” are selling for $100 to $200. Last year, to meet the demand for lower prices, Atomic Pavel said. That simple math calculation is not lost on the big pri- Denim opened a Tijuana, Mexico, factory where the salaries A series of workers’ compensation claims saw the com- vate-equity groups and multimillion-dollar companies that for the 70 workers there are about half of what they are in Los pany’s insurance costs skyrocket from $10,000 a month have bought many of the premium blue-jeans labels started Angeles. “There is no large volume in Los Angeles like it was to $50,000 a month and annual revenues plummeted to $6 by Los Angeles entrepreneurs who turned a glimmer of an before. The market is different,” said Claudia Bae Kye, vice million. “The [workers’ compensation] complaints were so idea into big brands. president of E & C Fashion, the parent company of Atomic high, we couldn’t cover our expenses,” Pavel said. Jeff Lubell cofounded True Religion in 2002 and 11 years Denim and Pacific Concept Laundry. “We needed to go Also, military-uniform makers only wanted to pay the later sold it to TowerBrook Capital for $835 million. (True somewhere else to match the pricing companies wanted.” federal minimum wage of $7.25 an hour rather than the Religion filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection earlier Another big blue-jeans manufacturer taking a big hit from higher Los Angeles minimum wage. “So we were stuck be- this year and exited bankruptcy in October.) the decline in local blue-jeans orders is Jean Mart. Three tween a rock and a hard place,” the blue-jeans-factory owner Peter Koral, Michael Glasser and Jerome Dahan launched months ago, Steve Rhee took over the 100,000-square-foot said. “Basically the expenses became huge, and we ran out 7 For All Mankind in 2000. After a split with Glasser and Da- factory with 600 sewing machines from his parents, who re- of money.” han, Koral turned around and sold the company in 2007 to tired. Now called Factory One Studio, Rhee has only 75 At the end of last year, Pavel paid his remaining employ- VF Corp. for $775 million, which then sold the blue-jeans workers to fill a space that used to hold hundreds of workers. ees and shut down his company. ●

APPARELNEWS.NET NOVEMBER 24–30, 2017 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 3

01,3,6.cover.indd 3 11/22/17 5:24 PM MADE IN AMERICA Indie Source Founders Named to Forbes’ ‘30 Under 30’

California Fashion Foundation Indie Source founders Zack Hurley and duce larger orders as well. From the heart of the California Fashion Association Jesse Dombrowiak were recently named to “Some emerging designers are killing Forbes’ “30 Under 30,” the publication’s an- it. They’re doing hundreds of thousands of nual list of rising stars under 30 years old in units,” Hurley said. “We are designed and a host of industries. Hurley and Dombrowiak built to help them scale.” were named to the list’s Manufacturing & In- The company can do everything from T- Please Donate! dustry category. shirts to leggings to a complicated jacket. Founded in 2012, In- Pricing is customized We ask for your continued generosity in support of die Source had revenue based on the complex- the Fashion Foundation’s annual event, benefiting of $2.3 million last year, ity of the garment. according to Forbes. “We know how long 200 children from families with limited means. This Indie Source offers it takes for patternmak- celebration is often the only one these children have... full-service apparel ing and sewing and development and full- all the components in- package production in volved,” Hurley said. Los Angeles as well as The fashion industry marketing services such in Los Angeles is frag- 70th Annual Christmas as website develop- mented, Hurley said, ment, look book/cata- with designers “bounc- Event for Children log creation and influ- ing from this sewer to encer marketing. that marking and grad- Wednesday, December 6th 2017 Hurley, Indie ing guy and not know- Source’s chief execu- ing how it all comes 3:30pm - 5:30pm tive officer, and Dom- together.” Cooper Design Space browiak, the chief Zack Hurley and Jesse Dombrowiak “We are pulling these 860 S. Los Angeles Street, Penthouse operating officer, saw fragmented components a demand for domes- together,” he said. tic manufacturing with lower minimums to To be successful, Hurley said, the local in- Please join your fellow industry members and contribute allow independent designers and growing dustry needs to understand how to work with dollars for gifts for the children’s gift bags. brands to enter the market. a broad base of companies. “It’s a complex supply chain,” Hurley “We are only as strong as our supply chain. said. “Designers have no way to navigate it. We all need to evolve together,” he said. BE A SPONSOR AND JOIN US! We want to be the single place for fashion “We’re looking for partners that understand Confirmed Sponsors to date include: brands looking to get out to market and build that at every level of the supply chain.” a successful business.” To help connect with designers and emerg- California Apparel News; Aims 360; Ann Davis; Indie Source’s customers include labels ing brands, Indie Source recently started a Barbara Fields; Ben & Joyce Eisenberg Foundation/ selling wholesale as well as brands building a Facebook group for independent designer direct-to-consumer business. And while some and entrepreneurs at www.facebook.com/ The New Mart; Cooper Design Space; CIT; Findings Inc.; come to Indie Source looking for small mini- groups/indiedesigners. FIDM; Fineman West; Karen Kane; Kaufman & Kabani; mums and sample development, the company For more information about Indie Source, KWDZ Manufacturing; Mann Publications; is positioned to help growing companies pro- visit indiesource.com.—Alison A. Nieder Mermel & Mermel LLC; Moss Adams; Ragfinders of CA; Rena & Todd Leddy; STC-QST; Trish Landry for Opus Bank; Velvet by Graham & Spencer; Calendar Wells Fargo Capital Finance; Directives West; Nov. 28 Dec. 2 Dec. 8 Stony Apparel; SWAT/Fame Guest lecture with Dame Zandra Unique LA Fashion With a Cause Rhodes, presented by the California Market Center California Market Center Donations made payable to: Chimaera Project Los Angeles Los Angeles Huntington Beach Academy of Through Dec. 3 Holiday Sample Sales California Fashion Foundation Performing Arts California Market Center Huntington Beach, Calif. Dec. 6 Los Angeles 444 S. Flower Street, 37th Floor CFF and TALA Annual Christmas Los Angeles, CA 90071 Nov. 29 Party for Children Dec. 15 Kingpins Cooper Design Space, penthouse Holiday Sample Sales or ... call 213 688 6288 Basketball City Los Angeles California Market Center New York TPC Holiday Party Los Angeles Through Nov. 30 The Palm Los Angeles Dec. 22 Nov. 30 DG Expo Fabric and Trim Show Holiday Sample Sales Shop for Success, VIP Night Palmer House Hilton California Market Center 1101 Westwood Blvd. Los Angeles Los Angeles Through Dec. 7 (Open to the public Dec. 1–4) Dec. 7 Dec. 1 There’s more Showroom grand opening on ApparelNews.net. Holiday Sample Sales presented by LYCRA, Tavex and California Market Center Artisan Cloth Los Angeles 1308 Factory Place, Suite 105 For calendar details and contact Los Angeles information, visit ApparelNews. net/calendar.

Submissions to the calendar should be faxed to the Calendar Editor at (213) 623-5707. Please include the event’s name, date, time, location, admission price and contact information. The deadline for calendar submissions is the Tuesday prior to Friday publication. Inclusion in the calendar is subject to available space and the judgment of the editorial staff.

POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802. CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS®: (ISSN 0008-0896) Published by TLM PUBLISHING INC. APPAREL NEWS GROUP Publishers of: California Apparel News®, Market Week Magazine®, New Resources®, Water­wear®, New York Apparel News®, Dallas Apparel News®, Apparel News South®, Chicago Apparel News®, The Apparel News (National), Bridal Apparel News®, Southwest Images®, Stylist® and MAN (Men’s Apparel News®). Prop- erties of TLM PUBLISHING INC., California Market Center, 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777, Los Angeles, CA 90079, (213) 627-3737. © Copyright 2017 TLM Publishing Inc. All rights reserved. Pub­lished weekly except semi-weekly first The California Fashion Foundation is established as a 501(c)(3) week of January, second week of July and first week of September. Periodicals Postage Paid at Los Angeles, CA, and additional entry offices. The publishers of the paper do not assume responsibility for statements made by their California Public Benefit Corporation. Tax ID: 95-4677121 advertisers in business competition. Opinions expressed in signed editorial columns or articles do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publishers. Subscription rates: U.S.: 1 year, $89; 2 years, $140. Foreign: $180 U.S. funds (1-year subscription only). Single-copy price $2.99. Send subscription requests to: California Apparel News, Customer Service, PO Box 4419, Orlando, FL 32802 or visit www.apparelnews.net. For customer service, call (866) 207-1448.

4 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS NOVEMBER 24–30, 2017 APPARELNEWS.NET

04.calendar.indd 4 11/22/17 5:26 PM prolable.indd 1 11/16/17 4:30 PM NEW RESOURCES

Butter Cloth Continued from page 1 serve as an ambassador to the sports and celebrity world. The announcement comes shortly after the emerging brand took a bow as a direct-to-sales clothing company. Tran started Butter Cloth in January as a new angle on the men’s dress shirt. Butter Cloth shirts have the look of the men’s dress collared shirt but have the soft feel of a high-end T-shirt, Tran said. The label’s shirting is made out of a proprietary fabric, which Tran said he developed with a Chinese fabric mill. It is 100 percent cotton but constructed as a double knit, which gives it stretch. Butter Cloth fabrics are finished on the outside and the inside of the shirt, which creates the T-shirt feel, Tran said. Tran also designed the shirting label’s patterns, which run in sol- ids, plaids and geometric shapes. VIA METTA WORLD PEACE’S INSTAGRAM Danh Tran with Metta World Peace

All of the patterns feature unique COURTESY OF BUTTER CLOTH shapes and colors to give the shirt an added point of difference. Butter Cloth is Tran’s first independent venture after working in a variety of design jobs in Southern Califor- nia’s apparel industry. He designed clothes for Barbie dolls. He also designed T-shirts, fleece and jackets for the mixed-martial-arts lifestyle brand Affliction, head- quartered in Seal Beach, Calif. Tran said that the wide range of gigs made him a better designer. “If you are tal- ented, you can design anything,” said Tran, who graduat- ed from Otis College of Art and Design and immigrated from his native Vietnam as a teenager. Retail price points range from $88 for a short-sleeve shirt to $98 for a long-sleeve shirt. For more information, email [email protected] or call (800) 203-2650. ●

6 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS NOVEMBER 24–30, 2017 APPARELNEWS.NET

01,3,6.cover.indd 6 11/22/17 5:07 PM RETAIL Junk Food and Levi’s Team Up for Tees + Jeans

After a four-year run, Junk Food Clothing has revamped its flagship store in Los Angeles’ Venice district and relaunched as a collaboration with Levi Strauss & Co. called Tees + Jeans, a boutique devoted to Junk Food’s blank T-shirts and Levi’s jeans. Tees + Jeans took an official bow on Nov. 17 at 1103 Abbot Kinney Blvd. The 2,700-square-foot space carries a mix of 40 percent Junk Food tees and 60 percent Levi’s denim. The store will offer Junk Food blanks and new and vintage Levi’s jeans and jackets. The back of the space houses a Levi’s Tailor Shop, where T-shirts and jeans can be customized and den- im can be repaired. The shop will fea- ture a rotating gallery section devoted T-shirts with Craig Steyck graphics Opening night at Tees + Jeans to the work of different artisans, artists and brands. For the debut, the gallery section was given to artist and docu- mentarian Craig Steyck. At the debut party, Steyck’s graphics were screen- printed onto T-shirts and jeans. Blair Digiacomo, Junk Food’s direct-to-consumer concept general manager, said that Junk Food was looking for a new concept to drive its storefront at Abbot Kinney, one of the most popular walking streets in the Los Angeles area. The world might see more Tees + Jeans stores in the fu- ture. “Tees + Jeans is a scalable mod- el, and there are plans to open others like it, depending on the space and/or partner,” she said in an email. —Andrew Asch Silkscreening tees at the opening party Tees + Jeans carries a mix of Junk Food T-shirts and new and vintage Levi’s.

APPARELNEWS.NET NOVEMBER 24–30, 2017 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS 7

07.junkfood.indd 7 11/22/17 5:28 PM NEWS ‘Project Runway’ Winner is LA– SHAPE UP Based Fashion Instructor at FCI By Alison A. Nieder Executive Editor what I have to think about. I feel like I just The 16th season of the fashion reality came from . I don’t speak English and capture the show “Project Runway” concluded with the well, and I don’t have my family here. But I top prize going to Kentaro Kameyama, the am excited about what’s going to happen. I first Japanese winner of the long-running have to be smart about it,” Kameyama said. attention of Lifetime television show. He also had his first brush with the fame “I believe there was one other Japanese that comes from winning a reality-show contestant in ‘Project competition. Runway’ history, but “I was at the air- retailers with I believe I am the first port in New York and Japanese designer in many people asked for history to win. It’s a my autograph and pic- big deal for me,” Ka- tures. They were say- meyama said. ing, ‘Hey, Kentaro.’ It’s Kameyama’s win is kind of a weird feel- also a big deal for his ing,” he said. fashion alma mater For now, Kameya- and current employer, ma will continue to FCI Fashion School, teach at FCI, where he the fast-track fashion was recently promoted premier school in downtown to fashion design chair. Los Angeles that of- In October, Ka- fers a three-month, in- meyama helped or- performance tensive fashion design ganize FCI’s runway program. Kentaro Kameyama show, which featured “We right away saw Kameyama—along his immense talent,” said Joe Farrell, FCI’s with fellow “Project Runway” designers Al- fabrics made fashion merchandising chair. varez, Batani-Khalfani and ChaCha—on the Trained as a classical pianist, Kameyama runway alongside FCI students. said his musical training influences his fash- Kameyama and Farrell plan to continue in the USA ion designs. to host fashion shows that feature the work “Through my classical training, I am able of students alongside guest designers. to analyze what’s going on. That’s how I “I appreciate that I’ve got this opportu- make patterns,” he said. nity. I’m working here and I get to do my Before turning to fashion design, Ka- fashion show, which was a huge deal for me meyama studied piano per- formance at the University of South Carolina, the Univer- sity of Redlands and the Uni- versity of Southern Califor- nia. His musical performance experience kept him cool under the pressure of competition on “Project Runway.” “Because I did so many pi- ano competitions, I know what competition is like since I was 10,” he said. The designer stayed above the fray that often marks a con- tentious reality show. When asked who he viewed as his biggest competitor on the show, The goal at Antex Knitting Mills is to service the knit Kameyama would answer “my- self.” fabric needs of the apparel industry with high quality, “I didn’t want to say any- competitively priced fabrics, backed by outstanding thing bad about other people,” he said. “I have to say, different customer service and technical expertise. people, different personalities, but I love being with those peo- ple who have that same dream Antex’s product line includes: that I have. It’s a competition, Matchmaster prints but it’s a beautiful situation.” Antex Premier Performance Still, there was plenty of dra- ma going into the show’s finale. Dry Inside Performance Cotton Kameyama was up against San Pyrosafe by Antex flame retardant knits Francisco–based Brandon Kee, Salt Lake City–based Ayana Ife and San Juan, Puerto Rico– Looks from Kameyama’s finale show on “Project Runway” based Margarita Alvarez. Ife was the reality show’s first Muslim when I started in fashion. It’s a huge oppor- designer. Her finale collection was both tunity for a new designer,” Kameyama said. fashionable and modest. Alvarez presented “I want to share what I have.”

At last! Flame retardant clothing with her final collection as Hurricane Maria was Kameyama and Farrell would like to add the comfort of your favorite T-shirt! on track to hit the island. (Mentor Tim Gunn their runway show to the Los Angeles Fash- 3750 S. BROADWAY PLACE, LOS ANGELES, CA 90007 assured her on air that her family was safe.) ion Week lineup. The ONLY Flame Resistant Kameyama’s win was a surprise to many, “I want to make this into a very interest- COTTON KNITS that Comply with NFPA 2112 TEL (323)NFPA 232-2061 70E including the Japanese-born designer. But ing Los Angeles Fashion Week platform,”

Charles Javer at 213-713-2347 or [email protected] MADE IN THE USA within 24 hours, the designer’s Instagram Kameyama said. “There’s no doubt that 3750 S. Broadway Place, Los Angeles, CA 90007 323-232-2061 www.pyrosafebyantex.com WWW.ANTEXKNITTING.COM following doubled to more than 20,000. everybody loves California fashion. I am FOR MORE INFORMATION The morning after his win was an- proud to be considered a California design- nounced, Kameyama was fielding inter- er. This is a good chance for California to do PLEASE CONTACT [email protected] views from several news outlets. something big and beautiful. To do that, we “Everyone said, ‘So what’s next?’ That’s need to help each other.” ●

8 CALIFORNIA APPAREL NEWS NOVEMBER 24–30, 2017 APPARELNEWS.NET

08.ProjectRunway.indd 8 11/22/17 5:31 PM NEWS Guess?, Inc. Faces Challenges in U.S. Market With Europe and Asia Taking the Lead Apparel News Group Guess?, Inc. was founded in Los Angeles nearly 40 years ago with 10 percent. its eye on the U.S. consumer, but its weakest market now is the United Europe and Asia were a different story. European revenues jumped States and the Americas region. 18.8 percent with retail comp sales moving up 10 percent, and Asia 1945-201772

In the past two years, since Victor Herrero was named the company’s revenues saw a healthy 16.8 percent spike with retail comp sales seeing Seventy-two years of news, chief executive officer, business has been improving at a strong pace in a more moderate 3 percent increase. “I believe Europe and Asia still of- fashion and information Europe and Asia. But the Americas remains a challenge. fer a lot of opportunity and should continue to grow double digits next During a conference call on Nov. 21 highlighting the venture’s third- year,” Herrero said. quarter results for fiscal 2018, Herrero noted that the 60 store closures For the third quarter, Guess saw a net loss of $2.9 million compared announced earlier this year will now turn into 70 outposts—with most to a net profit of $9.1 million for the same time period last year. Net CEO/PUBLISHER of those doors in the United States. revenues were up 3.3 percent to $554.1 million. TERRY MARTINEZ The company already made a $22 million up-front payment to a For the first nine months of fiscal 2018, Guess had a net loss of $7 common landlord—with $12 million recognized as net losses on lease million compared to a $16 million net profit in 2017. Revenues for the EXECUTIVE EDITOR CLASSIFIED ACCOUNT terminations and $10 million in advance rent payments. nine-month period were up 3.7 percent to $1.6 billion compared to last ALISON A. NIEDER EXECUTIVES SENIOR EDITOR ZENNY R. KATIGBAK JEFFERY YOUNGER “Also, as more than half our leases will expire in the next three years, year’s $1.53 billion. DEBORAH BELGUM CLASSIFIED ACCOUNTING we have a lot of flexibility to close stores and further improve our profit- Herrero said the company is improving its product offerings all the RETAIL EDITOR MARILOU DELA CRUZ ANDREW ASCH ability,” the CEO said. time and trying to be on trend while maintaining a sexy and edgy look. SERVICE DIRECTORY EDITORIAL MANAGER ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE For the third quarter that ended Oct. 28, Guess had 315 directly op- Guess has also employed several celebrities, including Camila Cabello JOHN IRWIN JUNE ESPINO erated stores in the United States, down 26 stores from one year ago. and Joe Jonas, to enhance the label’s attractiveness. Jennifer Lopez will CONTRIBUTORS PRODUCTION MANAGER ALYSON BENDER Canada had 96 directly operated stores, 15 fewer than last year, and be the model for the Spring 2018 campaign. VOLKER CORELL KENDALL IN Central and South America saw an increase of six stores to 56 outposts. Herrero was named the company’s new chief executive in July JOHN ECKMIER EDITORIAL DESIGNERS JOHN McCURRY JOHN FREEMAN FISH The Americas market—which covers the United States, Canada, 2015 to replace Paul Marciano, one of the four Marciano brothers who ESTEVAN RAMOS DOT WILTZER TIM REGAS Mexico and Brazil—has seen a continuing slide in same-store sales. founded the company in 1981. Herrero had been the head of Asia Pa- N. JAYNE SEWARD PHOTO EDITOR Overall for the third quarter, retail revenues in the Americas sank cific for Inditex Group, whose nameplates include Zara, Massimo HOPE WINSBOROUGH JOHN URQUIZA SARAH WOLFSON CREDIT MANAGER Dutti and Pull & Bear.—Deborah Belgum NATALIE ZFAT 13.4 percent and comparative sales, including e-commerce, declined RITA O’CONNOR WEB PRODUCTION MORGAN WESSLER PUBLISHED BY CREATIVE MARKETING TLM PUBLISHING INC. DIRECTOR APPAREL NEWS GROUP Made in America LOUISE DAMBERG Publishers of: Resources DIRECTOR OF SALES California Apparel News AND MARKETING Waterwear provides fabric development, knitting, dyeing, and our Los Angeles–based facility for over 25 years. TERRY MARTINEZ Decorated Antex Knitting Mills Asher Fabric Concepts finishing in addition to fabric print design and Our in-house vertical capabilities include knitting, SENIOR ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE EXECUTIVE OFFICE div. of Matchmaster Dyeing & Finishing Inc. 950 S. Boyle Ave. printing capabilities based on each customer’s dyeing, finishing, and printing, and our develop- AMY VALENCIA California Market Center 3750 S. Broadway Place Los Angeles, CA 90023 needs. The company differentiates itself from the ment and design teams are unparalleled. Contact ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE 110 E. Ninth St., Suite A777 LYNNE KASCH Los Angeles, CA 90007 (323) 268-1218 competition by offering proprietary textiles and by us to find out how our quality-driven products will Los Angeles, CA 90079-1777 BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT (213) 627-3737 (323) 232-2061 Fax: (323) 268-2737 continually updating and innovating every aspect enhance your brand. DANIELLA PLATT Fax (213) 623-5707 Fax: (323) 233-7751 www.asherconcepts.com of textile design and production. With an in-house MOLLY RHODES Classified Advertising Fax [email protected] [email protected] design team, new prints are constantly added to its SALES ASSISTANT/RECEPTIONIST (213) 623-1515 ASHLEY KOHUT www.apparelnews.net Contact: Bill or Anna Tenenblatt Products and Services: To address the need collection, and color stories are updated seasonally. [email protected] Products and Services: Antex Knitting Mills, a for innovative temperature-regulating knit fabrics ADMINISTRATIVE ASSISTANT RACHEL MARTINEZ Printed in the U.S.A. privately owned vertical knitting, dyeing, and print- in the activewear market, Asher is introducing SALES ASSISTANT ing company in Los Angeles, announces capability Cool Sport, spun on Asher’s new Santoni knitting Texollini PENNY ROTHKE-SIMENSKY of providing full-package garments produced in machines, which create micro gauge knits for pure 2575 El Presidio St. California or Central America to meet your varied smoothness and compression. In 1991, Asher Long Beach, CA 90810 needs. Antex’s product line includes Antex Premier Fabric Concepts, based in Los Angeles, transformed (310) 537-3400 Performance, a line of high-performance, technical the apparel industry by offering cutting-edge, high www.texollini.com fabrics with moisture management, anti-microbial, quality, “Made in U.S.A” knits for the contemporary Products and Services: We at Texollini use This listing is provided as a free service to stain resistant, or UV finishes; and Matchmaster fashion, athletic, and yoga markets. Since then, state-of-the-art technology to supply the fashion our advertisers. We regret that we cannot be Prints by Antex California, offering design and the company has become internationally known and garment industries with innovative and trend- responsible for any errors or omissions within development of custom prints. Please contact for its premium quality, knitted constructions with driven fabrics. Speed-to-market, trend insights, Made in America Resources. [email protected]. and without spandex, along with its creative print and quality control have been the cornerstones of design and application. Asher Fabric Concepts

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Jobs Available Min 5 yrs experience for established, stable apparel manufacturer in business 19 years. We Visit www.apparelnews.net/classifieds are looking for a responsible, detail oriented to place your ad in our self-serve system APPAREL BOTTOMS COMPANY SEEKING person. This multi-tasking position includes Jobs Available INDIVIDUALS TO FILL THE FOLLOWINGINCREDIBLE OPPORTUNITY FOR purchasing trim, fabric, issuing cutting tickets PRODUCTION POSIT ION. THE RIGHT INDIVIDUALS and work orders to sub-contractors for Highly motivated embellishment. Must be good with follow up. IMPORT Computer skills such as Outlook, Excel and Word COORD./MERCHANDISER are required. Must speak and write English, person with 2-3 years exp. in the junior/special Spanish speaking is considered a plus. PAT T ERN MAKER • Must have well rounded sizes denim bottoms market needed to assist in Background check required. 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[email protected] competitive compensation and benefit packagePlease submit your including health, dental, 401K, paid vacation, and product discount. resume and salary history to hrdept@mbwswim. com 213-627-3737 ext. 280, SPEC WRIT ER EDI & LOGISTICS COORDINATOR Immediate opportunity for a detail oriented and well organized individual who will be We are looking for an experienced EDI & responsible for writing spec sheets and sending Logistics Coordinator to join our team. sample approvals to buyer. Must be computer Receiving and processing EDI orders. Creating literate in excel, illustrator/Photoshop and be UPC's. Preparing shipping documents, arranging T ECHNICAL DESIGNER able to work well under pressure. Fax resumes pick up. Must have knowledge of GXS Inovis (323) 887-8484 Catalog. GXS DiCentral. 3-5 years' experience. NYDJ Apparel is seeking an experienced Please send resume to [email protected] Technical Designer. Creation and updating of all T ECHNICAL DESIGNER FOR OUR MISSYDIVISION CUST OMER SERVICE email [email protected] or First to Production Technical Packages for Missy, Duties will include but not • Create tech packs for Petite and Women Divisions. Lead fit sessions • Minimum 3-5 years experience • Illustrator,A premium denim LA based company is seeking No phone calls and send pattern Track sample corrections submissions. to the overseas Excellenteric. photoshop, Excel for a customer service. factories. overseas & domestic vendors• Experienced in limited to data entry, shipping and invoicing. benefits & work environment. conducting fittings, generating fit comments... • Must have strong written and verbal please. Send resume and salary history to: Pattern making knowledge a plus • Excellentcommunication skills. Must be proficient in [email protected] communication skills – written & verbal • Team excel, word, outlook and PAS. Must have a •PRODUCT player and works well with others. Send resume minimum of 2 years in the denim industry. E-mail PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT COORDINATOR to [email protected] resume and salary requirement to: info@blackor AND MERCHANDISING COORDINAT OR chiddenim.com Santa Monica based company seeks: SALES REPRESENT AT IVE - MISSY (LOS visit www.apparelnews.net/classifieds ANGELES OR NY) PROD. PAT T ERNMAKER DEVELOPMENT COORDINATOR• 5+ yrs exp. in evaluating material performance & New misses and plus size knitwear line seeking EXP. DENIM PATTERNMAKER NEEDED. MIN. 323- 5 communicating across multiple product talented Sales Representative to be located YRS IN DENIM EXP A MUST. PREMIUM DENIM EXP categories. Organized. Detail-oriented. Strong either in Los Angeles, CA or NY. Must have an PREFERRED. TUKA SYSTEM EXP A PLUS. time mgmt. skills. Excl. written & verbal comm. active department store, major retail or RESUME W/SALARY HISTORY A MUST FAX: EMAIL: [email protected] skills. Computer literate. •MERCHANDISING specialty store relationships to bring to the 488-9781 Please email resume to: [email protected] COORDINATOR• 5+ yrs exp. in Merchandising & table. Product Development. Excel, Illustrator, ONE OF T HE LARGEST AND FAST EST GREAT DESIGNER Photoshop w/ strong collaboration, analytical, GROWING TEXTILE COMPANIES IN THE USA organizational and prioritizing skills. Fashion Fax resumes to (310)828- Looking to hire 2. for Secretary/Cust. full time position: Support 1. Pls. to place your ad in Fast growing contemporary company seeks Merchandising degree preferred. Import/Prod'n BENEFITS. BOTH F/T Designer for womens sportwear wovens & cut & [email protected] email [email protected] contact: 0091 or sew knits. Candidate must have flair for fashion and detail, and be proficient in Adobe ASSIST ANT DESIGNER Photoshop/Illustrator & Microsoft Office. Please Assisting Head Designer for design, trim, & send portfolio samples and resumes with salary history to [email protected] fabric sourcing for the junior/young missy market 4/16/15 6:17 PM for an LA Import Garment Manufacturer. Minimum 2 years experience. Good computer & graphic skills on Photoshop. E-mail Resume [email protected] our self-serve system

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$2.99 VOLUME 73, NUMBER 46 NOVEMBER 3–9, 2017

YEARS THE VOICE OF THE INDUSTRY FOR 72 Arts District Shops Hit Roadblock as Construction Escalates Guerilla Atelier, Apolis and Poketo are among the retailers who have closed or relocated recently. By Andrew Asch Retail Editor Construction is booming in downtown Los Angeles’ Arts District, which is currently home to numerous sites for future offices and residences as well as crowds of peo- ple lining up for restaurants such as the critically lauded and popular beer and food hall Wurstkürche. Manuela Retailers have been scouting the once-blighted district, and high-end boutiques such as Dover Street Market are scheduled to move into the enclave in 2018, according to media reports. But the pace of construction has delivered setbacks to some of the area’s pioneering retailers. Renovations to the building housing Apolis: Common Gallery caused the 6-year-old boutique to shutter its loca- tion for a year, said Raan Parton, Apolis’➥ Arts creative District director. page 3

Artisan Cloth’s New LA HQ Showcases International Mix of Premium Denim

By Alison A. Nieder Executive Editor Brad Alden Mowry and Danielle Lee are putting the finishing touches on the new 2,600-square-foot showroom space in downtown Los Angeles for their denim textile company, Artisan Cloth. The husband-and-wife team will officially host a grand- opening party in December in, thepartnership Mexican with denim Invista mill, thatthe maker of Lycra, and Tavex was acquired two years ago by Ropa Siete Leguas. Four years ago, Mowry opened Artisan Cloth to show- case new developments from Japanese denim mill Kurabo. The longtime denim-industry executive provides develop- ment and marketing for the Japanese denim mill as well as the company’s wovens division, which is made in Japan and Thailand, and premium denim made in China through a joint venture between Kurabo and➥ Hong Artisan Kong–based Cloth page 6

2 SM INSIDE: Where fashion gets down to business

6 ‘Runway’ Star 2 Import/Export ... p. 4 FCI Fashion School recently showcased the work of its latest crop of True Religion exits Denim ... p. 6 bankruptcy ... p. 2 students alongside the work of several designers from the current Resource Directory ... season of “Project Runway.” In addition to Kentaro Kameyama, an FCI Activewear ... p. 3 p. 9 alumnus and current FCI instructor, other designers from the current Retail Sales ... p. 3 season of the fashion reality show included Batani-Khalfani, Margarita www.apparelnews.net Alvarez and ChaCha. For highlights from the show, see pageKentaro 7. Kameyama

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