Toward a Feminist Rhetorical Strategy of Sass: Sheila Hibben As America’S Early 20Th Century Culinary Influencer

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Toward a Feminist Rhetorical Strategy of Sass: Sheila Hibben As America’S Early 20Th Century Culinary Influencer University of New Hampshire University of New Hampshire Scholars' Repository Doctoral Dissertations Student Scholarship Spring 2021 Toward a Feminist Rhetorical Strategy of Sass: Sheila Hibben as America’s Early 20th Century Culinary Influencer Meaghan Elliott Dittrich University of New Hampshire, Durham Follow this and additional works at: https://scholars.unh.edu/dissertation Recommended Citation Dittrich, Meaghan Elliott, "Toward a Feminist Rhetorical Strategy of Sass: Sheila Hibben as America’s Early 20th Century Culinary Influencer" (2021). Doctoral Dissertations. 2566. https://scholars.unh.edu/dissertation/2566 This Dissertation is brought to you for free and open access by the Student Scholarship at University of New Hampshire Scholars' Repository. It has been accepted for inclusion in Doctoral Dissertations by an authorized administrator of University of New Hampshire Scholars' Repository. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Toward a Feminist Rhetorical Strategy of Sass: Sheila Hibben as America’s Early 20th Century Culinary Influencer By MEAGHAN ELLIOTT DITTRICH B.A. Hope College, 2001 M.F.A. University of Wyoming, 2009 M.A. University of New Hampshire, 2013 DISSERTATION Submitted to the University of New Hampshire In Partial Fulfillment of The Requirements for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy in English May, 2021 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED © 2021 Meaghan Elliott Dittrich ii Toward a Feminist Rhetorical Strategy of Sass: Sheila Hibben as America’s Early 20th Century Culinary Influencer by MEAGHAN ELLIOTT DITTRICH This dissertation was examined and approved in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctorate in English by: Dissertation Director, Dr. Cristy Beemer, Associate Professor of English Dr. Christina Ortmeier-Hooper, Associate Professor of English Dr. Robin Hackett, Associate Professor of English and Women’s & Gender Studies Dr. Alecia Magnifico, Associate Professor of English Dr. A. Abby Knoblauch, Associate Professor of English, Kansas State University On March 26, 2021 Approval signatures are on file with the University of New Hampshire Graduate School. iii Dedication For my dad, who always just wanted to see me get the next degree… and the next… and the next... Last one, Dad. iv Acknowledgements Writing a dissertation is hard. I was told at the beginning of this process that I wouldn’t know how to write one until I had written one, and then I’d never have to write one again. The following people are the ones that helped me make this writing happen. The first person I must thank for getting me through this endeavor is my incredible advisor, Dr. Cristy Beemer. For everything from scholarly mentorship to parenting advice and good conversations over wine and firepits, for sitting with me in emergency rooms and birthing suites, for ushering some other bride out of Prescott Park garden at my wedding, for introducing me to the coolest feminists in the field, for helping my daughter learn how to walk as we waited in airports together, for always having my back, and for telling me that I will eventually have everything I ever wanted (just not all at once). To my fierce committee members—a panel of intelligent women who gave me what I needed in order to succeed. To Christina Ortmeier-Hooper, who knows my greatest challenge is overwriting and overexplaining, yet keeps challenging me to say it better, say it louder. Thank you for involving me in so much and believing that I can take up so many hats all at once. To Alecia Magnifico, who taught me to how be an ethical and methodical researcher, and how to write a conference paper using a completely new writing process that works. Thank you, Alecia, for helping me discover that Sheila Hibben’s sass was a worthy and compelling rhetorical strategy. To Robin Hackett, for normalizing the kid thing, for being so understanding about the theory thing, for helping me with the confidence thing, and for giving me the greatest piece of writing advice I’ve ever heard: “touch it every day.” To Abby Knoblauch and all of our great conversations, for your considerate, prompting questions and love of all things food-related. Here’s to all the whisky we still need to drink together. v I am grateful for the support that the UNH Graduate School has provided me over the course of my program, including the number of travel grants that allowed me to share ideas at various conferences over the years, as well as the Summer TA Fellowship that propelled my work forward through the world of cookbooks as sites of rhetorical invention. The UNH Grad School has provided many outlets for writing support, thanks in large part to Jovana Milosavljevic Ardeljan, who has organized various writing retreats often in conjunction with the Connors Writing Center. I admire her enthusiasm and dedication to graduate students, as well as her willingness to collaborate in helping graduate student writers succeed. In particular, I’d like to thank Dean Cari Moorhead, who stalwartly advocates for graduate students and shows up to encourage us every step of the way. She is unwavering. Of course, there are always the archivists who never get enough credit for all the hard work they do. To the Cookbook Collection at Bowdoin College in Maine, particularly Marieke Van Der Steenhoven and Meagan Doyle in Special Collections and Archives Outreach. And to the New York Public Library archives, especially Tal Nadan, reference archivist, for scanning documents from The New Yorker records during COVID-19 when I could not make the trip in person. Their assistance allowed me access to correspondence between Sheila Hibben and her editors at The New Yorker. To Bill Ross, special collections librarian and history faculty member at the UNH library. Not only has Bill helped me with my own research needs, but has guided me and my writing center students toward a better understanding of archives as a mysterious and challenging world of historical discovery. To Laura Shapiro, author of the article “First Kitchen” from The New Yorker that sparked the whole idea for my dissertation. When I reached out to her to ask her about the research she vi had done on Sheila Hibben and Eleanor Roosevelt, she was kind and generous enough to respond immediately, pointing me toward multiple resources and avenues I hadn’t thought to consider. To Sheila Hibben’s family who took the time to write to me, send me personal artifacts in the mail, and help me get a bigger picture of her life. To Stuart Hibben and George Hibben, cousins of Sheila’s husband Paxton, and William Hellendale, Sheila Hibben’s grandson. I would also thank Sheila Hibben herself. I hope I have honored her memory and given some justice to her work. This project gave me joy because I enjoyed her voice and tenacity. She gave me strength because she showed so much in her writing style. At some point, stubbornness is all we need to get us through. I think Hibben and I share that quality. To my friends and colleagues, readers and accountability groups. To Carly Husick and Melissa Kleinschmidt who saw ugly early drafts and helped me work on the weakest part of my writing process: my organization. We can do the hard things! Especially when baked goods are involved. To my writing group buddies, Patty Wilde and Kate Tirabassi for adopting me into their writing circle, motivating me to just keep going and that it can be done. To my fellow PhD cohort at the UNH Composition Program—friends who started with me in “old HamSmith,” watched it get torn down and raised anew, and friends who are just starting on their journey but already have so much more to say than I did when I started. I’m lucky to be part of a long tradition of UNH Comp alumni who genuinely support each other’s research and writing. It’s not so lonely when you have a crew like this one. And to my UNH Writing Program teammates, especially Ed Mueller for being an ever- jovial mentor who hired me despite my nervous verbosity and was so supportive while I tried to work full time, have a baby, and write a dissertation. And Sam DeFlitch, my co-captain at the Connors Writing Center who helps me keep this community the welcoming space it continues to vii be by showing me new ways of empathy. These folks make it possible for me to enjoy working in the best job I could ever have hoped for. To my family, who are everything. To my Canadian relatives who cheered from afar and in particular to my Auntie Diane (Lizzie), who has attended every one of my graduations since high school. It took a pandemic to keep her from this final one. To my in-laws, Pat and Barb; I am so very grateful to have them on my side. To my sister-in-law, Mariah, who is relentlessly entertaining and who gave me the cutest niece I can’t wait to spoil over the coming years. To my mother, Eileen Elliott, who I think might have wanted this even more than I did. She has always been in my corner and never wavered in her encouragement. And to my daughter, Elliott Anastasia, who surprises me every day by how familiar she feels to me. Most of all, to my best friend, my husband Bradfield, who, on Monday, August 22, 2011, was just another fresh-faced TA at the English Department in dusty old Hamilton-Smith 101, looking very much at home in a wing-backed armchair. From day one, he lured me into the field Rhetoric and Composition with his charm and then used that same charm to dazzle me into marrying him several years later.
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