COMPLIMENTARY COPY COMPLIMENTARY COPY

ENTARY COPY READ ME TAKE ME

COMPLIMENTARY COPY

COMPLIMENT

VIETNAM MARCH 2014

1Year Anniversary Issue Brushed Aside The Disappearing Art of Calligraphy PAGE 30

Hold that pose Random Acts of Ballet PAGE 32

Paradise for sale An Island in Hawaii Unlike Any Other Oi PAGE 63 Story Behind the Scenes

1 2 3 OC

M M E I L P NATE

N R ART OCYP Y READ ME TAKE ME

Y C

O YP OCM P

OCM P

L M N E I L I M T OCP YNA RTE OCP YAR

Y

M OCI M L P Y

E N T

VIETNAM MARCH 2014

1year Anniversary Issue BRusHED AsIDE Everywhere you go The Disappearing Art of Calligraphy PAGE 30

HolD THAT PosE Random Acts of Ballet PAGE 32

PARADIsE foR sAlE Director Xuan Tran An Island in Hawaii Unlike Any Other PAGE 63

Business Consultant robert stockdill oi [email protected] Story 093 253 4090 Behind the Scenes

Managing Editor Christine Van 1 [email protected] This Month’s Cover Deputy Editor James Pham Image: Adam Robert Young [email protected] Model: Tran Hoang Yen

Researcher George Bond [email protected]

Associate Publisher khanh nguyen [email protected]

Graphic Artists HIEN NGUYEN [email protected] NGUYEN Pham [email protected]

Staff Photographers adam robert young Ngoc Tran

Publication Manager Hang Phan [email protected] 097 430 9710

For advertising please contact: Kate Tu [email protected] 091 800 7160 NGAN NGUYEN [email protected] 090 279 7951 Jimmy van der Kloet [email protected] 094 877 9219 Julian Ajello [email protected] ƠI VIỆT NAM 093 700 9910 NHÀ XUẤT BẢN THANH NIÊN chau nguyen Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Đoàn Minh Tuấn [email protected] Biên tập: Nguyễn Giang - Quang Hùng 091 440 0302 hanh (jessie) le Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: [email protected] Metro Advertising Co.,Ltd 098 747 4183 48 Hoàng Diệu, Phường 12, Quận 4 huy tran (central region) In lần thứ mười hai, số lượng 6000 cuốn, [email protected] khổ 21cm x 29,7cm 098 646 3579 Đăng ký KHXB: 1110-2013/CXB/4 -52/TN QĐXB số: 366/QĐ-TN/CN

General [email protected] Chế bản và in tại nhà in Phụ Nữ Nộp lưu chiểu tháng 2/2014

Inquiries [email protected] Website: www.oivietnam.com

4 5 Contents

SPECIAL FEATURE Oi TURNS ONE A glimpse at what it takes to put a 22 monthly publication together FEATURES P10 datebook P32 Hold That Pose P75 The Long Dress With these events, you'll never have to be Random acts of ballet in Celebrating Vietnam’s iconic fashion statement – bored again the city the ao dai P16 troi oi P40 Wok Talk With Chef P80 Living in the Past See why a telepathy scam and the soon-to-be Martin Yan A 400-page book about the history of Ho Chi Minh longest bridge in Southeast Asia made our Our one-on-one with one of the pioneers of City is about to launch, we speak to its author noteworthy numbers this month television cooking shows P84 My Life as… a Parking P18 the bulletin P60 Treasure Map Attendant Checking out the latest promotions and openings Throw away those generic tourist maps and A woman turns her home into a garage to eke out a discover Hanoi with a new and very cool living for her family P28 Horse Play hand-drawn map that reveals hidden gems Vietnam’s first equestrian grand prix takes P92 Strength in Numbers place this month P63 Paradise for Sale Mob-based discounts and why it sometimes doesn’t work Discover Lanai, Hawaii's most secluded P30 Brushed Aside island and once known as the pineapple capital of the world Meet the philosophical calligrapher who sets up shop on the street

6 7 WINE & DINE RESTAURANT REVIEWS Delicious Indian food, a fusion of German and Japanese cuisine, and a remix of local dishes are on this month’s menu

42

COLUMNS P27 SAIGON MYTHBUSTERS P68 POSTCARDS FROM VIETNAM P95 LEGAL EASE Is there really a ghost roaming around the Hearing music in the noise of Damage of property, who’s liable? HCMC Fine Arts Museum? the city P67 LIFE'S A TRIP P82 HIGHER LEARNING Abandon your inhibitions and discover the true The challenges girls face in school and society experience of traveling

8 Editor’s ISSUE NO. 12 Note MARCH 2014

Our Story

This issue marks an important that may soon be lost forever. As milestone for Oi. We are now one year old! someone recently engaged, Lanai with In the past year, we've striven to its wild beaches, gorgeous resorts and cover topics and stories that have been closeknit community ethos has jumped inspiring, controversial, decadent and to the top of my honeymoon destination everything in between. This issue is list (and ideal retirement home)! called Oi Story but it might as well Growing up in the US, I remember be "Our Story" because Oi is meant watching Yan Can Cook as a kid on to represent all of us, and what's near PBS, not necessarily because of the food and dear to us, living in Vietnam. To (that part was just a bonus) but because celebrate our one year anniversary, we of Chef Martin Yan's larger-than-life thought it'd be fun to let you in on what personality that was just so fun to it takes to produce a monthly publication watch. It was the rare show that parents from scratch, from the mundane of and children could watch together, and meetings and deadlines to the sublime of plus the food he was cooking was more snagging a great interview or writing a accessible to my mom compared to the story that people really respond to. Also fine French cuisine of Julia Child. I think in this issue, our photographers give us a I also had a soft spot for him because glimpse of the work required to produce he reminded me of my dad, both with a cover, from concept to execution, that their thick Asian accents and skill in the readers will want to pick up. kitchen. Oi talks to Chef Yan about what While our small team here at Oi all it was like to be an Asian pioneer before contribute to the magazine, the largest cooking shows took over the world and personality of all is still Saigon herself also on his love affair with Vietnamese and we're featuring the city as a gorgeous cuisine. backdrop in two articles. Michael Arnold Something else that you may not talks to historian Tim Doling on the know about me is that I'm all about the city's disappearing historical architecture discounts. Whether it's clipping coupons, in Living in the Past and photographer subscribing to frequent diners cards Adam Robert Young captures random at restaurants or ferreting out specials acts of ballet set against some of Saigon's and promotions, I go to great lengths to most iconic locations. I'm sure you'll snag a deal. In Strength in Numbers, share my amazement at the strength and James Pham covers the pros and cons of grace of these dancers as they elevate a the social buying scene in Vietnam, and park bench into the role of a supporting whether there are some deals which are character, a shuttlecock into an air rocket really too good to be true. and the act of eating pho into a balancing I'd like to speak for all of us at to act. say "Thank you!" for coming on this Our travel lovers will appreciate the journey with us over the past year. pair of destinations we have for you this Here's to many more! month. For a convenient getaway, we're featuring hidden Hanoi with the help of a new and very cool hand-drawn map. Jura Cullen uncovers some of Hanoi's lesser known charms in Treasure Map while James Pham takes you to the tiny Christine Van island of Lanai (Hawaii), a true paradise Managing Editor

9 Datebook Fill up your calendar with these exciting events March 7

What: Eclectic Night Where: The Observatory, corner of Le Lai and Ton That Tung, D1; 10pm till late About: The Observatory presents DJ Maft Sai, known for his vast eclectic and unique collection of rare vinyl. He will showcase years of his extensive research, digging and DJ-ing as the boss of an eclectic record label. Entrance fee costs VND150,000. Contact: Call 3925 9415 for tickets and inquiries

March 7

What: Hong Kong Bound: AAF Preview Exhibition Where: Craig Thomas Gallery, 27i Tran Nhat Duat, D1; 6pm - 8pm About: The exhibition is a preview of selected works by 10 artists that CTG will be showing at the Affordable Art Fair (AAF) in Hong Kong. The works comprise of the figurative and abstract, mixed media, oil and acrylic painting, woodburn sculpture and installation. The artists included are Lim Khim Ka Ty, Bui Thanh Tam, Lieu Nguyen Huong Duong, Pham Huy Thong, Tran Minh Tam, Nguyen The Hung, Bui Tien Tuan, Tran Quoc Tuan, Luong Luu Bien and Ngo Van Sac. Established in 2009, CTG is a natural evolution of its founder’s decade long involvement in the Vietnamese art scene and the relationships developed with artists, curators and collectors during that time. The gallery is focused on supporting the development of young, emerging to mid-career Vietnamese artists and providing them with a platform to present their work to a wider audience. Contact: For more information, email: [email protected]

March 6 - 7 - 8

What: Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde Theater Performance Where: The Opera House, 7 Cong Truong Lam Son, D1; 7:30pm About: The ADGE and TNT Theatre Britain will present the thriller- cum-horror comedy Dr Jekyll and Mr Hyde. The production is being adapted to the stage by the same artistic team that created Gulliver's Travels, Frankenstein and Brave New World. Director Paul Stebbings has also directed recent TNT/ADGE productions such as King Lear, Macbeth and Romeo and Juliet. The company's style combines dynamic physical theater with specially composed music, songs and striking visual imagery, adding a dash of audience participation to create a truly theatrical event. The production is touring over 20 countries in the world, from Britain to Vietnam. The performances will be in English with Vietnamese subtitles. Contact: Tickets cost VND600,000 and can be purchased at the box office at The Opera House (left wing), 7 Cong Truong Lam Son, D1; or call 3829 9976

March 7 March 8

What: 7th Installment of Heart Beat What: Celebrating Women’s Day with a Handmade Card Workshop Where: Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4; 8pm Where: VinGallery, 6 Le Van Mien, D2; 10:30am - 12:30pm About: Techno scene developer Heart Beat Saigon presents an eclectic About: To celebrate Women’s Day, VinGallery will host a card- mix of performers including DJs Cybersnack, Marshall White, Pav making workshop. You can also try out their DIY card session Parotte and Konka. Entrance fee costs VND100,000 and VND50,000 workshop for VND70,000 per person. You will get a complimentary for students. flower to give her showing how much you appreciate her. Contact: Buy tickets at ticketbox.vn or email [email protected] Contact: Visit www.vingallery.com for more info

10 March 8

What: Art Market Where: VinGallery, 6 Le Van Mien, D2; 10am - 4pm About: Art Market features handmade arts and crafts, paintings, drawings and limited edition prints, ceramics, sculpture, handmade jewelry, homewares and gift items. Photographers are welcome to showcase their works. This is a great opportunity for art lovers to come and grab first-hand designs. Contact: Visit www.vingallery.com for more info

March 8 - 15 - 22 - 29

What: Saigon Soul Pool Parties Where: Splash Bar, New World Saigon Hotel, Le Lai, D1; 10am - 11pm About: Saigon Soul Pool Parties aim to become the liveliest ongoing event in the city with parties every Saturday. At each event, they will have DJs spinning tunes, a fully operational bar with drinks from VND50,000 as well as local restaurants setting up food stations. The New World spa will be offering outdoor massages, with local artisans selling their creations, giveaways, hotel promotions, swimwear retailers and more. Entry fee is VND100,000 and free for hotel guests. Contact: For more info, call Dallas Waines at 0122 734 8128 or email [email protected]

11 March 13

What: Canvas & Wine: Life Drawing and Painting Where: VinSpace Art Studio, 6 Le Van Mien, D2; 6:30pm - 9pm About: Painting from life is a rewarding experience. Start drawing a model for short poses and work towards a long pose to develop your own work, with the help of an instructor. No previous experience in painting or life drawing is needed. Contact: Visit www.vingallery.com for more info

March 15

What: Australian International School (AIS) Open Day, 9am - 12pm Where:Thu Thiem Campus, 264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West Highway), D2 About: An opportunity to meet the school's students and teachers, enjoy a range of educational activities at the school (suitable for adults and children), watch exclusive performances by AIS students and experience an Aussy BBQ. Contact: For more info, visit: www.aisvietnam.com/openday March 15 - 16

March 18 What: Ta Lai Trophy - Corporate Challenge Where: Cat Tien National Park, Dong Nai What: Apocalaughs Nows! About: Open to 33 companies with teams of two runners, the Where: Cargo Bar, 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4; 8pm challenge will require running in the jungle, mountain biking, About: A night of stand-up comedy featuring Daniel Kinno from swimming and kayaking. The level is extreme (5-7 hours), therefore the US and Dave Callan from Australia, with supporting Saigon only suitable for experienced racers or runners. Participating comedians Steve Jackson and Jeremy Ginsberg. Entrance fee is companies are charged a fee of USD195 while racers are required an VND250,000 and gets you a free bottle of Magners cider. entry fee of USD135. Contact: Visit www.facebook.com/saigoncomedyclub Contact: For registration and further details, visit www.talai-adventure.vn

March 15 - 16 - 22 - 23

What: Lightroom, Photoshop & Photography Workshops Where: Saigon Hub, 27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 About: Saigon School of Imaging offers courses in Lightroom (15th & 16th), Photoshop (22nd), and photography (23rd) led by professional photographer Quinn Ryan Mattingly. It promises to help you learn the best way to shoot and edit stunning images. All courses are eight hours in duration (9am – 6pm), with a one-hour lunch break. One-on-one courses are also available. Contact: For more info, email [email protected] or visit www.saigonimaging.com

12 March 19

What: CBC Networking Night Where: Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1; 6pm - 8:30pm About: Canadian Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam invites you to join them in an evening of drinks and networking. Mix and mingle and share some stories while expanding your network and enjoying some canapés and drink specials. Come out and meet some new contacts from all different types of industry sectors and other business chambers. Free entrance for CanCham members and co-hosting members provided you bring your membership card while non- members are required to pay an entrance fee of VND50,000. Contact: Email [email protected] or call 3824 3754 for more info

March 20

What: Canvas & Wine: Depicting The Dance Where: VinSpace Garage, 95 Pasteur, D1; 6:30pm - 9pm About: Figures in movement are a traditional topic in art and culture. For this session, the model will pose in several movements that will allow you to paint a scene of figures dancing, like the influences of Matisse and Picasso. No previous experience in life drawing or figure is needed. Contact: Visit www.vingallery.com for more info

March 20 - 21

What: Mamma Mia! Where: Australian International School, Thu Thiem Campus, East- West Highway, D2 About: A mother. A daughter. Three possible dads. And a trip down the aisle you'll never forget! The smash hit musical based on the songs of ABBA, has been reinvented by students of the Australian International School (AIS) and performances will be available over two nights at 6:30pm. Choreographed, staged, propped, directed and performed by the Secondary students of the Australian International School in District 2, the musical is a must-see. Free admission and tickets are available at the AIS Reception. Contact: For more info, visit www.aisvietnam.com or visit the Reception desk at any of the three campuses for tickets.

March 20 - 21 - 22

What: Two by Jim Cartwright Where: (March 20 & 21) La Habana, 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1; (March 22) McSorley’s Square, 4 Thao Dien, D2; 7:30pm About: Saigon Players, as part of its 10th season, presents Jim Cartwright’s award-winning tour-de-force play, Two. The play is about a night in a pub owned by a bickering husband and wife. Throughout the play, you will see the pub’s different customers and their quirks and issues as well as the fragile relationship between the landlord and the landlady. The play will take the audience through a rollercoaster ride of human emotions, and promises an engaging, heartwarming night. Tickets cost VND200,000. Proceeds of the show will go to Operation Smile (www.operationsmile.org.vn) and Friends For Street Children Association (www.ffscvn.org). Contact: For inquiries and bookings, email [email protected] March 21 - 30

What: One Way or Another: Contemporary Art Exhibition March 21 - 23 Where: VinGallery, 95 Pasteur, D1 and 6 Le Van Mien, D2 About: One Way or Another brings together artists from across the What: Saigon Model United Nations world who work within the genre of international art. The exhibition Where: Saigon Exhibition and Conference Centre, 799 Nguyen Van includes artists with roots in Vietnam, France, South Africa, Spain, Linh, D7 the US, Australia, Indonesia and the UK. The title of this exhibition About: Hosted by Renaissance International School Saigon, Saigon suggests that there is not, whatever the country, a formulaic way Model United Nations (MUN) is run internationally in high schools of making or seeing art. These artists and their work reinvent and universities whereby students, who each represent different different kinds of languages and initiate a new set of conversations countries in the United Nations, research and write resolutions that highlight the multidimensional ways of conceptualizing and to world problems and then go on to debate using parliamentary producing art today. The diversity of their work highlights boundless procedures. This is a training ground for those future diplomats, influences, from a wide array of art historical references to popular leaders of NGOs and those who enjoy the cut and thrust of a debate. culture, drawing on both local and international cultures Contact: Email [email protected] or call 090 888 3465 for Contact: Visit www.vingallery.com for more info details

March 22

What: Family Fun Day Where: Saigon Star International School, Thanh My Loi, D2; 11am - 4pm About: Saigon Star International School will host its 4th Annual Family Fun Day, opening its doors to the whole community and welcoming everyone to join a fun-filled day of activities. There will be bouncy castles by Mr. Bouncy, pony rides by Saigon Pony Club, arts and crafts corner by VinSpace, face painting and lots of games on the school fields. Black Cat will be on hand with a barbecue, Al Fresco's will be providing pizza and there will treats like ice cream, popcorn and candyfloss throughout the day. Entry is free and transport will be available from select locations in Binh Thanh, An Phu and Phu My Hung. Contact: Call 3742 7827 for more information

14 March 26

What: New Trends for Business Intelligence Where: New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai, D1; 1:30pm - 4:30pm About: CEO and IT professionals are invited to join TRG at the “New Trends for Business Intelligence” seminar to learn about the new trends of business intelligence and how to turn data to valuable assets for improved performance and best practice in implementing business intelligence. Contact: Contact Pham Thi Thao Linh at linh.pham@trginternational. com or 3823 6900 for inquiries

March 26

What: AmCham Palooza Party Where: Renaissance Riverside, 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1; 6pm- 8:30pm About: The monthly Palooza Party organized by American Chamber of Commerce in Vietnam is a platform to develop friendships, Now Until - April 25 networking opportunities and information exchange. People from all age groups are welcome to attend. Everyone is advised What: Art Labor’s Unconditional Belief Exhibition to wear business casual attire. Admission is free for members and Where: San Art, 3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh; 10:30am - 6:30pm VND100,000 for non-members. About: Unconditional Belief is an exhibition by collective Art Labor Contact: Email Lily Nguyen at [email protected] or call (visual artists Truong Cong Tung and Phan Thao Nguyen and curator/ 3824 3563 writer Arlette Quynh Anh Tran), who imaginatively explores the concept of ‘belief’ in Vietnam by examining particular site and historical accounts. The exhibition surveys different layers of belief - from human March 29 dependence on spiritual power or sacred objects in healing sickness, to the use of education to disseminate religious ideas. Unconditional What: The Laguna Lang Co Triathlon Belief is not simply an artwork display; it also experiments with the Where: Laguna Lang Co, Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu possibility of reading an exhibition as an artistic research book. Entering Loc, Thua Thien Hue this book /exhibition, the viewers can walk in, touch, see and read; they About: Featuring a 1.8k swim, 62k bike ride and 12k run, the triathlon will encounter turning points of the artists’ investigations, traces of their will be complemented by a team relay, a duathlon, and a Fun Run. references from academic sciences, hints to decode the artworks and Contact: To register, contact Go Adventure Asia at www. even the collective’s plan for future projects. goadventureasia.com/LLT/lltreg.htm Contact: For more info, visit www.san-art.org

Now Until - April 25

What: Daisy, Daisy - Ode of Digits Exhibition Where: Phuong My Flagship Store, 81 Le Thanh Ton, D1 About: Daisy, Daisy – Ode of Digits is an exhibition that explores the poetry behind the relationship of humans and technology. Using motifs of the science-fiction genre such as metallic materials, the red light of a spaceship control center, precise laser-cut components and 3D drawn figures, Sandrine depicts various persona of her ideal futuristic woman, the one whom both humans and machines fall in love with, like Daisy in the song "Daisy Bell." Born in France, Sandrine Llouquet has lived in Vietnam since 2005. She graduated from École Pilote Internationale d’Art et de Recherche – Villa Arson in 1999. Contact: Email [email protected] for details

15 Troi Oi The country by numbers

250 bikes will be available for rent for VND4,000-VND5,000 per hour under a pilot project in Hoan Kiem District, Hanoi. In a recent government-supported project, Hanoi is among the five major cities in Vietnam that will implement the bike rentals program to encourage people to use this environmentally-friendly means of transport. VND24,510 and The vehicles will be managed by electronic cards. Bicycles for rent will be available at bus stops or tourist attractions, especially the Old Quarter. The four other cities in this VND25,010 scheme are HCMC, Hai Phong, Danang and Can Tho. are the new gasoline prices for 92 RON and 95 RON, respectively, after a VND300 per liter increase last month. The price of diesel was also up VND240 per 70 liter and is now priced at VND22,720 per liter. Kerosene and FO were raised by VND230 and VND200 per liter, sets of remains were excavated for DNA tests in a telepathy- respectively. related scam. Self-proclaimed ‘telepath’ Nguyen Van Thuy, The average price of 92 RON, the most commonly 54, and his wife, Man Thi Duyen, who also professes to be a used grade of gasoline in Vietnam, has risen to ‘telepath,’ were arrested for faking war martyr remains, earning USD115.61 a barrel over the last month, while diesel has hundreds of thousands of dollars from the Vietnam Bank reached USD122. for Social Policies for each ‘find.’ According to VTV channel’s Last year Vietnam’s fuel prices saw five hikes and six investigation, the graves actually contained animal bones. decreases. With each set of ‘remains,’ the bank paid Thuy VND75 million.

16 200 kilogram shark made an appearance in the central province of Khanh Hoa, making it the first long-tail shark to be spotted in the area. According to the Nha Trang Oceanography Institute, long-tailed sharks typically live around 60-90 kilometers from shore and 366 meters under the sea. It is not a danger to humans and has been ranked as “vulnerable” or endangered 30% by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN). tax proposed for SMS voting and football prediction services. Programs that invite customers to predict football results or cast votes for contestants in reality TV shows by sending text messages should be subject to an excise tax worth 30 percent, the Ministry of Finance has proposed. Customers are currently charged VND5,000 to VND15,000 for each text message sent to such services, while the normal cost is only VND350 per message. The ministry said SMS voting and prediction is similar to betting, so it must be treated the same as gambling and lottery businesses, which are currently subject to excise taxes. 5.44 kilometer bridge over the sea in northern Hai Phong has begun construction. Upon completion in 2017, the bridge will be the longest of its kind in Vietnam and among the longest sea-crossing bridges in Southeast Asia. The project covers a 15.63 km traffic line linking Tan Vu – an area at the end of the Hanoi-Hai Phong expressway in Trang Cat Ward of Hai An District – to the port of Lach Huyen on Cat Hai Island. The line will include about 10.19 km of access road leading to the bridge. It will be 16 meters wide, covering four lanes for vehicles and two safety corridors. Meanwhile, the access road will be 29.5 meters wide for vehicles to run at 80/kph. The total cost of the project is estimated at VND11,849 billion, of which VND10,049 billion will be sourced from the Japanese ODA, and the remaining amount will come from the Vietnamese government’s counterpart capital.

17 The Bulletin Promotions and News in HCMC and beyond...

Meditate on It Huy, a Yoga Ashtanga certified instructor, is offering a meditation class (a Buddhist practice called the Samatha method) for free. Classes are available in English and Vietnamese. On Wednesdays, classes are held from 7pm - 8pm (Smile Group), 9:30am - 10:30am on Saturdays (Shri Yoga) and 2pm - 3pm on Sundays (Smile Group). Treat Your LoveD One Smile Group classes are held at 38/16A Tran Khac Chan, D1 (near Tan Dinh Market) while Shri Yoga classes are at 54/2/25 Bach Dang, Tan Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort in Danang is offering a Binh (near the airport). honeymoon package at VND5,900,000, valid from March Huy has trained under Tirisula Yoga (Singapore) by Master Paalu 1 to December 14, 2014. It includes round trip airport-resort and Master Weiling. He visited India several times to study Samatha transfer, three days/two nights accommodation in a and Vipassana Meditation (Buddhist techniques) at Gaenka 10-day Bungalow Garden View, breakfast in room or daily buffet Vipassana retreats and at Lokaratna Buddha Vihara in Bangalore breakfast at Alamanda Restaurant, romantic candlelight under Venerable Vinayarakkhita Thera. He believes thatasanas dinner for two and a 45-minute spa treatment per couple (yogic physical postures) brings awareness, releases stress, calms with the choice of a head, shoulder or foot massage. the body and mind, thus, creating the right conditions for a peaceful Other benefits include welcome drink and flower Samatha meditation and Pranayama practice (yogic breathing bouquet upon arrival, free bottle of sparkling wine and techniques). For enrollment and details, contact Huy at huylekhac@ honeymoon room decoration on arrival, free late check-out yahoo.com or 090 688 7468. until 6pm subject to room availability, two complimentary drinks at Garden Pub, free upgrade to higher room category subject to room availability, extension stays with special rate at VND2,000,000/room/night inclusive of breakfast; 10 percent discount for F&B and 15 percent for spa services. Contact Sandy Beach Non Nuoc Resort at [email protected] or (051) 1396 1777.

Help at hand for foreigners Mina aims to bridge services between companies and foreigners, providing information about real estate properties for sale or for rent, dining, entertainment, shopping, health and domestic help. It was founded in 2006 to serve the growing number of foreigners flocking into Vietnam. The company’s office is located on the ground floor of Riverside Residence, Nguyen Luong Bang, Phu My Hung, D7. Visit www.mina.vn for more info.

18 Celebrate Women’s Day To make your Women’s Day memorable, InterContinental Asiana Saigon (corner of Hai Ba Trung and Le Luan, D1) offers a dinner from 6pm - 10pm and lunch buffet from 10:30am - 2:30pm on March 8. Market 39 restaurant offers a dinner buffet at VND1,099,000, inclusive of a free flow of wines, soft drinks, beer, water and signature cocktails. Meanwhile, Yu Chu Chinese restaurant offers “all you can eat” dim sum starting from VND500,000 per person including Chinese tea and soft drinks. Call (08) 3520 9099 or emaildine@icasianasaigon. com for information or to make a reservation.

Hong Kong Airlines launches HCMC route From March 17, Hong Kong Airlines will fly three times a week between Hong Kong and Ho Chi Minh City. Flights will be every Monday, Wednesday and Friday, leaving Hong Kong at 12:20pm and arriving in Ho Chi Minh City at 1:55pm; departing Ho Chi Minh City at 3pm on the return flight, arriving 6:30pm. Combined with the current Hanoi-Ho Chi Minh City route and new routes, Hong Kong Airlines will offer 10 weekly flights between Vietnam. For more ticket information, visit the Hong Kong aviation website www.hkairlines.com.

19 dental breakthrough in Vietnam In November 2013, the first case of nerve repositioning for dental implant surgery was reported in Vietnam. The surgery was performed by Dr Vo Van Nhan of Nhan Tam Dentist Center. The 59-year-old patient, Nguyen Van Luom, lost his entire lower jaw from a gunshot 40 years ago and before his surgery in 2013, had a Connecting People & Sports prosthetic jaw. If you're a swimmer, a cyclist, a runner, or all three, Ho Chi Minh Nerve repositioning is an advanced surgery technique that can City can be a fantastic place to do sports if you know where to only be practiced in developed countries. It is far superior compared look. A new website, www.triglobe.net, aims to connect people in to other implant techniques and is seen as new hope for patients HCMC who are interested in sports with information on where to like Luom. The surgery has been performed by only 44 doctors find training buddies, exchange training routes, arrange meeting worldwide. Vo Van Nhan is the first and only dentist confirmed points, and provide info like where to find a bike. The website will capable of performing nerve repositioning surgery in Vietnam. be updated regularly.

New Place to Drink & Relax Situated in District 1, Beer Rung (14bis Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3) is the ideal place to sit down, kick back, throw away your worries and relax with friends and a cold beer. With its unique restaurant and outside terrace, it can accommodate 300 guests at once and is fully equipped to offer event organizing services such as party, birthday, banquet, etc...Beer Rung specializes in grilled dishes from all regions of Vietnam at reasonable prices and opens daily from 4pm to midnight.

20 Curing the Feet & Hands KFC Now a Click Away InterContinental Danang Sun Peninsula has just launched the Food delivery marketplace foodpanda has partnered with global PEDI:MANI:CURE STUDIO by Bastien Gonzalez. The famous Bastien leading restaurant franchise KFC. From now on, customers can order treatments are much sought after by movie stars and international the whole KFC menu online at www.foodpanda.vn. A-listers and are now available at the resort. Bastien selects In Vietnam, foodpanda already entered partnerships with Al and trains every member of his team in his treatment protocols, Fresco's, Pepperonis, Subway, Tokyo Deli and Thai Express. On a guaranteeing high standards across the board. Benoit Perie, a French global level, foodpanda cooperates with McDonald’s, Pizza Hut, pedicurist who previously managed the Spanish Bastien’s Studio Domino’s, Subway, Papa John’s, Starbucks and 7-Eleven. in Barcelona and the Turkish one in Bodrum, manages the Danang KFC is the largest fast food company in Vietnam, launched here team. in 1997 and now boasting 134 locations. Founded in 2012, foodpanda Among the indulgent treatments at the resort is the award-winning provides an online and mobile marketplace with a wide gastronomic Bastien’s Duo; a 75-minute synchronized treatment by two therapists range, enabling restaurants to take their menus online and extend simultaneously, focusing on nails, hands and feet, for ultimate manicure their customer base. and pedicure. For more info, visit www.danang.intercontinental.com.

Ao Dai Museum This 20,000 square meter museum located at Long Thuan Garden House in District 9 is the first in Vietnam to display ao dais (women’s traditional wear). More than 500 ao dais, with some dating back 84 years ago, are displayed, and the phuong bao (phoenix dress) will also be showcased. Ao dai designer Hoang, a former lecturer at the Ho Chi Minh City University of Architecture in 2006, initiated the museum. Admission costs VND100,000 for tourists, VND30,000 for the handicapped, and free for the elderly and children. Proceeds of the admission are used to promote Vietnamese dress culture and traditional arts.

21 SPECIAL FEATURE Behind the Covers Our photographers reveal the challenges of shooting a cover

Clockwise FROM LEFT: Old lady laughing, Taking It To The Streets (March 2013), Discovering Cho Lon (May 2013)

Creating Oi’s first cover was a unique goal was to have each cover incorporate colors in the background, the model’s dress process, because we were essentially setting a portrait, or at least feature a person and and even the orange of the Oi masthead the tone and style for all future covers. a scene related to the inside content in a just work really well together to create a I believed it was important to aim for fairly prominent way. This, combined with beautiful scene and atmosphere. If I had consistency, and so I knew we had to get it the generally-accepted philosophy that to choose a second favorite, it would be right from the start. As my background is in attractive faces help to sell magazines, led either the Eating Vietnam (June 2013) or documentary photography, I like to capture us toward the direction that’s still being the last cover I did, Genderation (October interesting characters and emotions. Our maintained today for Oi covers, but in each 2013). I just really like the way these images Creative Director and I were considering an photographer’s own style. translated into a glossy A4 cover, but also image of an old lady laughing as a cover but, The one I still like the most is the the ambiance and mood of the shots as well. as the opinions of the rest of the team were Discovering Cho Lon (May 2013) cover. I taken into consideration, it became clear just like the feel of the image that shooting – Quinn Ryan Mattingly, Photographer at that it was perhaps not the best direction to in a pagoda provided us, as well as the Large (March 2013 – October 2013) take to launch the new publication. My main model’s expression and body language. The

22 1Year Anniversary Issue FROM TOP: Adam's alternative indoor shot, Saigon's Shopping Secrets (December 2013), A Family Affair (February 2014)

Saigon’s Shopping Secrets December 2013 The pressure was on when I was assigned find something quite unexpected. A shrine my first cover shoot for the December had been set up outside the entrance of the issue. As a new member of the team, I mall with candles, incense and food offerings knew I needed to bring my A game and – inconveniently right where the shoot was prove myself. to take place. People knelt in front of the altar The cover story was about shopping, and and prayed for what I imagine must have as we were tossing around the ideas of a been blessings for the prosperity of the mall. stylish woman with shopping bags in front The situation wasn't any better inside of one of Ho Chi Minh City’s shopping the mall, as the area I’d planned to use to malls, I immediately visualised something create the indoor shots was now obstructed very specific. Most mornings I drop my by a huge impromptu stage for a fashion wife off at work in Crescent Mall and have promotion, and a film crew was using the always admired the building’s distinct one decent location that wasn't ruined by crescent shape. I knew that was where I'd the stage. get the shot I was after. Thankfully, by the time hair and make-up I also knew there would be definite was done on the model and lighting was set challenges to make it work. First, I had to up, the shrine was gone and we immediately deal with some difficult conditions. In order started shooting the outdoor images. I did for the building’s facade to be illuminated a few interior photos, just in case, but there nicely, I had to shoot when the sunlight was no way they would be as strong as the shone most brightly on it. This, however, outside ones – I was trying to shoot in the would then become an unflattering light small area not obstructed by the stage, and for our model. There would have to be then the lighting started playing up – so I skillful control of the lighting by balancing called it a day. the sunlight with studio lights and other The one we went with for the cover was variable neutral-density filters. I had also exactly the way I'd imagined it would be. planned to take alternative images inside the Even her dress was the same color as the mall as a back up. Finally, with our Creative café umbrellas in the background, though, Director Paolo’s contact at Crescent Mall, so everything tied in nicely. It's a shot I'm we were able to obtain a permit to shoot at proud to have created. the venue. On the morning of the shoot, I arrived to – Adam Robert Young, Staff Photographer

A Family Affair February 2014 John & Tran are the owners of a results would be good. restaurant in District 7 so they’re very A couple of times when I was just about busy people and could only arrange to do to press the shutter, he ran out of the frame the shoot for a short time – two hours. completely! Working within this time limit, I had to During the shoot, Ethan also wanted to plan everything perfectly. Within those do what most kids do – watch cartoons. So short two hours, I had to brief both John we let him watch his cartoons in the hope and Tran on the content and direction of that maybe he would slow down a bit. But the shoot, do their make-up, style their then once the TV was on, he immediately clothes and ready them for the camera. stood still and became expressionless. He Even with all this planning, problems was so focused on the TV that he wouldn’t abounded. Ethan, the couple’s son, was a pose despite all of our coaxing. challenge to work with. He’s an exuberant Eventually, his parents had him sitting little boy, with a lot of energy! Once we between them and I acted like a clown had dressed him up in a traditional ao dai, while shooting, getting them to smile and he couldn’t stop running and jumping laugh for the photos. In the end, we got the around. During the photo shoot, his photos and the family looked happy and parents and I had to chase after him, shoot, radiant on the cover. scramble to pose whenever he stopped for – Ngoc Tran, Staff Photographer a break, shoot again... and pray that the

23 SPECIAL FEATURE

I read recently that there are over 200 million blogs on the internet. Add to that online publications, news outlets and specialty websites and it's obvious that there is no lack of reading material available at the click of a mouse or the swipe of a finger. But there is something visceral about newspapers and magazines that I hope will never be replaced by e-ink and a screen. It's the feel of paper against skin, the smell of newsprint, the anticipation of what the next page holds. I suppose that's why I've devoted the last eight years to the magazine industry. It's the allure of creating a beautiful publication completely and utterly from scratch. It's Fine Print searching out the untold stories or finding a new spin on a story that's been told hundreds of times before. It's working with some of the most A day in the life of Oi’s Managing Editor creative people I've ever come across who are just as passionate about taking that perfect photo, writing that perfect line, creating the perfect Text by christine van Image by adam robert young layout. Sure, I routinely wake up in cold sweats with the fear that we won't be able to fill pages with quality content, meet a print deadline or snag a coveted interview, but it's all part of the job.

9am It's Monday which means it's the first of three weekly acupuncture sessions. I board the #35 bus headed to the nunnery on Ton Duc

24 1Year Anniversary Issue

happy with the second portrait shot we took prospective client who wants to know of his wife. (This, too, is an occupational how Oi fits with their brand. Over a hazard, managing people's self-perceptions, turkey wrap and a coffee, we discuss especially when it comes to having a photo the different ways we can support their published in print. "Do I really look like that?" brand, deciding on a celebrity interview and "Can you photoshop out [fill in the blank held at their venue as well as social media here]?" have been common questions.) support for their upcoming promotions. Next is an email from a reader with a suggestion for a Saigon Mythbusters 2pm In the shadow of Bitexco, our question and another from an expat editorial team is meeting for our monthly who's just opened up a gourmet food planning meeting. We take turns pitching, stand. Quirky! I make a note to check it rejecting and fleshing out ideas. James, out. The next email warms my heart. It's the Deputy Editor, has been snagging from an artist who was touched by our discounts on various Vietnamese social story on Mimi, the transgender funeral buying sites and thinks a behind-the- performer. She's asking for Oi to arrange an scenes look will be interesting. Someone introduction for a collaboration on a project else chimes in with a new book they dealing with censorship, oppression and heard about, detailing the stories behind transgender issues. I share the email with everyday jobs here in Vietnam. It has the team, as these really mean a lot to us, strong human interest appeal. There's also knowing that the stories we're producing a celebrity chef in town which is always a are having a real impact on our readers. popular assignment because it inevitably Then come two story pitches. The first is entails a gourmet meal. As the ideas flow, I about a walk along the Saigon River, but the mentally run each storyline by the censor. tone is slightly off. It's written for readers It wasn't too long ago that our Chinatown who don't know the city at all, and that's issue had to be renamed, unfortunate not our core readership. I suggest a rewrite; collateral damage due to a controversial we'll see what happens. The second is from a Vietnamese movie that ended up being freelance writer and it's a travel article about banned around that same time. a destination we haven't covered. I quickly While we nail down the content for write back to see if the writer has high our next issue, I make photography notes. quality photos to go with the article. At Oi, Which articles will need to be illustrated we love working with writers, experienced conceptually? Which shoots will require or not, who have fresh ideas and unique extra planning? We're all excited about stories to tell. our photo essay idea for ballet dancers in everyday situations, but it's going to be 11:15am Bulletin (openings, promotions, labor-intensive. We'll have to think about etc.), Datebook (events) and Faces & Places location, lighting and timing. We'll hash are regular features of the magazine, to that out at our photography meeting later keep our readers up-to-date with the latest in the week. developments around the city, whether Thang. The founding sister who everyone they be a hot new restaurant opening or 4:15pm The last part of the day is spent affectionately calls "Grandma" greets me by a performance down at the Opera House. tracking down potential leads, figuring name as she has for the last few years, since With something happening every night out deadlines for writers, photographers I've been coming for treatment for carpal of the week here, I have to be selective, and account managers and sending out tunnel syndrome, an occupational hazard. deciding which will interest our readers article briefs. A phone call about a last While a nun inserts needles into my elbows, while also showcasing a unique concept minute change of venue for a concert wrists and the tips of my fingers, I make a or event. 2013 was a good year for Faces we're covering has me scrambling to see mental to-do list for the day which includes & Places because it was Vietnam's 40th if one of the photographers can make the an editorial meeting, lunch with a client anniversary of diplomatic ties with a host new location. She can. Mini-crisis averted. and a media event. The tingling, pulsating of countries, each with their own unique sensation throughout my hands and arms is cultural way of celebrating it, leading to 6pm Everyone is packing up for the day strangely soothing. some great photo ops. Today, Minh emails and I still have to get home to change me with news of their Barcamp event and into something a bit dressier for tonight's 10am I spend the next hour or so working I pencil it in. While we scour the web for event, the fourth anniversary of the Hard through my inbox which can be my absolute events, it's also appreciated when readers Rock Cafe. Networking is so important in favorite or most dreaded part of the day. and event managers email us with their info. this industry, but I'm also hoping to enjoy The first email, though, gets the day off to a few mojitos and some sliders with my a positive start. It's from the husband of 12pm Because Oi isn't sold, advertisers fiance. It's a dirty job, but it's my job and I someone we interviewed, writing to say he's are our lifeblood. Today, I meet with a wouldn't have it any other way.

25 Foodpanda.vn Ginkgo Concept Store Giup.me Gomo Hatvala Hotel Muse Bangkok Huong Sen Spa Indochine Spa Indaba Inside Travel Intercontinental Asiana Saigon 1 Year Anniversary ISHCMC JJs Brazilian BBQ Jonty’s Bangers Khoi Thom As we celebrate our 1 year anniversary here at Oi Vietnam, we Kyoto Spa & Hair Salon want to say “Thank You” to the people who have made it possible La Bacoulos La Cochinchine Spa – our advertisers! Oi Vietnam is FREE for our readers because La Creperie of the companies and people who advertise in the publication. La Veranda Please support these companies and individuals who support us. Le Cochon D’or Le Rendez-Vous de Saigon The Landmark Here's to many more years of excellent partnerships with our Logical Moves Luang Say Residence valued advertisers and loyal readers! Lucca Lucky Dog Maison Mikio Boutique Salon Massimo Ferrari Mekong Quilts MNS (Synology) Achaya Café Moc Huong Spa AGS Four Winds Montessori International School Australian International School Nancy Chandler Maps American Chiropractic Clinic New World Hotel Saigon Ansara Hotel OnTop Bar, Novotel Hotel Au Lac do Brazil Palm Garden Resort Baba’s Kitchen Parkview New World Bahdja Peppercorn Beach The Bike Shop Princess D'An Nam Blanchy Street Pullman Saigon Centre Blue Cross Quan Bui Blue Dragon Red Bar Body by Jovie Renaissance Riverside Hotel Bollywood Renaissance International School Boom Boom Burgers Riverside Boutique Resort Boomarang Bistro Saigon Robata Dining An British International School Saigon South International School Broma Saigon Domaine Luxury Residences Burger Oi Saigon Retro Caravelle Hotel Saigon Star International School Centrofarms Santa Fe Relocation Ciao Bella Somerset Diamond Island Classic Nails Stamford Skin Centre Da VInci’s Taembe.vn DanCenter The Grand Ho Tram Strip Diamond Island Luxury Residences Total Wealth Management Ebisu UNICEF El Camino US Polo Assn Etihad Airways Viet BICE Exotissimo Vscential Family Medical Practice White Forest Finewines Shop Windflower Mui Ne Flamingo Spa Wok n’ Roll

26 saigon mythbusters THE MYTH: What's the real story behind the haunting of the HCMC Fine Arts Museum? ge BY adam rob e r t you n g ima

The HCMC Fine Arts Museum was hair walking inside the house, visible though it had spotted the same figure originally the private residence of a through the villa’s many windows. A he saw.” Mr. Hoa, the wealthiest man in Saigon maintenance man who was hired to do at the time, who also owned other the wiring described a particular room The Truth? famous buildings about town such as inside the villa - a beautiful and fully Hoa’s daughter was afflicted with the Majestic Hotel and Tu Du Hospital. decorated room that also appeared to leprosy and despite his search for a cure, Hoa had more than 10 sons but only be a prison because it had padlocks on he found none. Many of the doctors one daughter, a pretty, charming girl the outside and a hole was carved into he asked for help rejected his pleas named Hua that he doted on and loved the door where he witnessed servants because of the social stigma associated to show off. Gradually as time passed sneaking food through it. Needless to with leprosy at the time, and also she stopped appearing in public and in say, gossip about his story spread, some because the disease was still relatively the odd quiet nights, neighbors heard of it even denying her death. A short unknown then and highly contagious. moans and cries coming from the while later, another story appeared in Left with no other option, Hoa was mansion. And then one morning Hoa print, stating a couple of grave robbers, forced to quarantine his daughter in a posted a notice announcing the death believing that she was buried with separate room of the villa for the safety of his daughter. It stated the cause of many valuables, had unearthed the of those around her. Eventually, the girl death was from a sudden and intense daughter’s coffin only to find it empty. succumbed to her illness. bout of illness. The subsequent funeral Even a book about the haunting, Despite his great wealth Hoa could was quick and simple, and she was titled The Ancient Tomb of Hua, was not save his beloved daughter, not buried in Long Hai, next to the family’s published asserting that the daughter’s from death, not even from the pain vacation home. real name was Hua Tieu Lan and that and torment of the disease. Yet even These curious events led to she was buried in a tomb next to the in death, he did not want to be parted numerous rumors; some said that Bien Hoa graveyard. It also tells of from her. Afraid that she would be she went mentally insane and that a soldier named Tinh who stumbled lonely in a tomb far away from home, her father was hiding her out of into the graveyard one day and “under Hoa put her preserved corpse in a shame. Others claimed they saw her the pale moonlight, Tinh saw a white granite coffin with a glass lid and kept ghost roaming the house, crying and figure walking rounds around the the coffin inside the same room that screaming. And many more recalled tombstones, her dress fluttering in harbored her during her sickness. – seeing a figure in white with long black the wind. An owl cried in the night as Translated by NPD Khanh

27 SPORTS Horse Play Vietnams’ first Equestrian Grand Prix Text by NPD Khanh Images by Adam Robert Young

It’s 2014, the Year of the Horse, and things Grand Prix. “In Vietnam, we do not have of the event. We have to work with local vets at the normally laid-back Bach Ma Equestrian as many horses available as we do in other and prepare them as much as we can. We Farm are stirring up. Equestrian coaches, countries. Unfortunately it’s very difficult and need to have a proper FEI judge flown in to horse riders, event organizers, designers, expensive to import good horses for riding. keep ourselves up to international standard. builders, doctors and veterinary specialists, Riding in general is expensive. We also lack We need so many things that simply aren’t the Vietnamese press, and even an overseas experienced vets to care for sick horses, and available in Vietnam. There’s so much to do Fédération Équestre Internationale (FEI) skilled farriers to care for their hooves and and only two more weeks to go. But we will judge have visited the farm in the past few shoes. There is so much that needs to be done do it and we will do it properly.” months. All this is in preparation for the first for the competition to happen. We have to “Yes, there are horse races in Vietnam, Equestrian Grand Prix in Vietnam on March take care of not only our guests, but also the but not a proper equestrian competition, 8 & 9, 2014. The private event is by invite- horses that will be arriving with the guests.” one that celebrates the skill and art of horse only and will feature 30 competing riders. Adding: “Our own horses have to be riding, show jumping, vaulting, dressage, all “Equestrian events are very specific,” trained and prepared as well. We need a the disciplines of horse riding and training, says Cliff, an organizer of the Equestrian doctor and a medical van 24/7 for the entirety as well as the relationship between riders

28 and their horses,” says Kim, one of the 30 competing riders. Kim is a successful Vietnamese businesswoman who’s both excited and anxious for the upcoming competition that will, hopefully, be the first of many in Vietnam. “And there’s absolutely nothing like it in Vietnam. Even the notion of equestrianism, true equestrianism, the art, the skill, the dedication, the patience implied and required, just does not exist in Vietnam. We will change that.” “Our only hope is that this event will serve to promote horse riding in Vietnam and draw together a community of people who love horses and the art of horse riding,” says Cliff. Marshmallow and Romeo “I want to be the representative for Vietnam in the SEA Games,” Kim professes. “It’s really ambitious I know when I’ve only ridden for, at most, a little more than a year. But I set goals in order to know where I’m going. If you don’t know where you’re going, you go nowhere. I compete now not actually to win but to inspire, to motivate, and to better my riding.” Eleven-year-old Angela is one of Kim’s competitors, and despite her young age, Angela has had more than half a decade of riding experience under her belt and numerous riding titles and trophies in her cabinet back home. “I started riding at five. I actually wanted to start at four but my parents didn’t allow me to because I was too young.” Angela has ridden in four different countries: Singapore, Jakarta, Thailand, and most recently, Vietnam. To her, each riding experience and each horse is unique. “In Jakarta, there was a horse named Marshmallow, which I was riding on. Here there’s a horse named Bella. She can sometimes get really excited and can go really fast, so I always have to keep my strength up, just like I did with Marshmallow. There’s also another horse here named Romeo. I may get the chance to ride him in the competition. I’m really excited because Romeo is a palomino. I’ve never ridden on a palomino before and I really, really want to ride one! But Romeo... he’s a bit different from the other horses. Sometimes he doesn’t respond well if I nudge him with my foot. Sometimes I have to call or shout to get to him.” For Angela, it takes years to foster a relationship with each individual horse – to get to know them, train them and work with them – which is even more of a challenge for her, since her family moves every couple of years. She is not in the least bit disheartened, however. “Here it’s a different place. I have to learn how the horses are trained here and work with them.” And the reason why she’s competing? “I just want the little boys and girls my age out there to know that there is a place like this here, and maybe come and join us,” she replies. For more info, visit www.bachma- equestrian.com.vn

29 ART

30 Brushed Aside The disappearing art of calligraphy Text by NPD Khanh Image by Ngoc Tran

Hai is a calligrapher. Here is how his days It was just this incredibly gentle, seemingly go: From 9am to 7pm, he sits in his usual whimsical poem. But at the same time spot on a small plastic chair at the corner of there was power and layers of meaning in Dien Bien Phu and Truong Dinh in District 3 it. “Beneath the flowers" is actually talking where he draws, writes and sells his creations about the human will to persevere against to tourists, passers-by or to the odd nostalgic the hardship of life. It’s saying that all things connoisseur of fine calligraphic arts. have an intrinsic worth and despite how the He does this every day, Monday to Sunday, world may change, there comes a time when the same thing over and over again for the things return to their original values. There’s last nine years. Among the incredibly small so much more to it. It amazed me that a few and ever-shrinking community of full-time short sentences can impart such wealth of calligraphers in HCMC, he’s known as one wisdom, that there is such weight and depth of the oldest and most experienced artists of to each word. These are not the empty, the trade. hollow vessels spewn forth every day by However, Hai looks nothing like a society. Even now, I still feel like there’s yet stereotypical calligrapher. He doesn’t wear another layer of meaning so profound that I the traditional black and white ao dai that haven’t been able to grasp.” has long since become the calligrapher’s From then, he trained under an artist while uniform in Vietnamese society. He doesn’t also learning on his own through books and even own one. He’s not a thin 50-something, constant practice. The first ‘shop’ he opened respectable-looking old man with a full was on Dien Bien Phu Street in 2005, a few white beard. He’s only 34, brown and scruffy, years after graduating from college. “There’s slightly on the portly side with scraggy, no story behind it. No drama or big scoop. I swirly hairs where his beard should be, and just went from being a tech student to being while he does look mildly easy on the eyes, an artist-in-training. Everybody has a calling his looks in no way scream respectable. in life. Mine is calligraphy.” “When you go to a Tet flower show or In 2009 he moved to where he is now when you want to get a lucky word for the and shared the street and one storeroom, coming year, you are not actually looking (borrowed from the Nguyen Thi Minh Khai for a piece of art or to understand the true Public High School) with four other older, meaning of a word. You are actually looking more experienced calligraphers. for an experience. So the people in those “This street back in the day was known places give you the experience you want. as ‘the calligraphy street.’ People used They do that by wearing the clothes you to call it the go-to place for all things expect them to wear and appear the way you calligraphy. The press has come here. want them to look,” he explains of his attire. Newspapers have come here. TV shows. “I’m not selling anything like that. I’m just a A couple of them were foreign, too. I have guy doing what I like for people who like the met my share of journalists and reporters same things I do.” before you,” adds Hai. In early 2013, things took a turn for the Words to Live By worse when the high school reclaimed its Hai’s love affair with the art of writing storeroom and wall space, prompting the began during Tet 1999. He was 19 then and a gradual departure of the other four artists. student at Cao Thang College of Technology Hai is now the last of his group. “It’s tough and Engineering. “One day I went to the to make it as a calligrapher. It’s not a very night flower market in Tao Dan. They still modern art. It’s outdated, out of fashion, and hold it now. There were lots of calligraphers fans are dwindling. It has to compete with there that night. The first thing I saw were younger, mass-produced ‘art’ like cross stitch two verses from a poem by the Buddhist paintings. Something so small like having no monk Man Giac and it goes like this: Cho bao place to store your supplies can put you out xuan tan hoa rung het. Dem qua san truoc mot of business. It really is a job you can only do nhanh mai. ("Do not say that when spring if you truly love it.” passes all the flowers leave. In the courtyard When asked whether he is allowed to last night, one still blooms.") These two verses continue to stay in the same corner, Hai is came from the last poem Man Giac uttered unsure. “For all I know, they may just boot right before he died. The last line, “a single me off their curb tomorrow.” But he does not apricot blossom,” was later used to name a particularly mind either. “If that happens, I’ll Vietnamese princess. go home and keep doing what I love. Things “That was the first time I ever saw a true come and go, and some days they come back piece of calligraphic art,” says Hai. “Despite again. In this tumultuous world, I believe that my preconceptions, it wasn't some big, lofty there will come a time when things return to statement or words of grandiose wisdom. their original value.”

31 THROUGH THE LENS

Hold That Pose Images by adam robert young

Dancers are storytellers. They’re trained to capture passion with their bodies. These incredible photos illustrate the unbelievable talent of ballet dancers. Composed in random situations in well-known and familiar settings around Saigon, the elegance and skill of the dancers contrast starkly with their mundane background, elevating an everyday activity like eating pho into an art form. This is a tribute to their grace and elegance. A special thank you to Nguyen Le Nhat Tan, Doan Vu Minh Tu, Dam Duc Nhuan, and Tran Hoang Yen for their performance.

32 33 34 35 36 37 GET YOUR MESSAGE ACROSS

IS YOUR BRAND IDENTITY DRIFTING OUT TO SEA?

Metro Solutions is a team of foreign and Vietnamese specialists assisting foreign companies in presenting a compelling and professional image to local and/or international consumers. With a proven track record for international-quality professional communications, Metro Solutions delivers complete media packages for businesses and individuals across Asia and beyond.

* Incisive PR copy * Successful online marketing campaigns * High-response social media packages * Lucid and engaging copywriting work METRO * Media-savvy blogs and online articles * Error-free print publishing SOLUTIONS * Promotional eBooks for businesses * Personal publishing projects * Ghostwriting in all styles * Gorgeous photographic assignments www.metrosolutions.asia

Contact: Kate Tu 091 800 7160 l 08 3943 4223 38 Wine & Dine IMAGE BY ADAM ROBERT YOUNG

GET YOUR MESSAGE ACROSS

IS YOUR BRAND IDENTITY DRIFTING OUT TO SEA?

Metro Solutions is a team of foreign and Vietnamese specialists assisting foreign companies in presenting a compelling and professional image to local and/or international consumers. With a proven track record for international-quality professional communications, Metro Solutions delivers complete media packages for businesses and individuals across Asia and beyond.

* Incisive PR copy * Successful online marketing campaigns * High-response social media packages * Lucid and engaging copywriting work METRO * Media-savvy blogs and online articles * Error-free print publishing SOLUTIONS * Promotional eBooks for businesses * Personal publishing projects * Ghostwriting in all styles * Gorgeous photographic assignments www.metrosolutions.asia Martin Yan's dim sum Contact: Kate Tu 091 800 7160 l 08 3943 4223 39 FEATURE Wok Talk with Chef Martin Yan Oi talks to one of TV’s most loved cooking personalities Text by James Pham Images by Ngoc Tran

Inside Ngan Dinh, the signature Chinese cooking show landscape like then? get on stage, I tell people: "We're all here for restaurant at the Windsor Plaza Hotel, Chef the same reason. If you don't know how to do Martin Yan is mic'd up and working the MY: For my first TV show, we had three [something], I'll come to your home to teach crowd, hopping from table to table chatting people in our production team: a lady to you." It's all about making friends. But I have up admiring fans. Diners from all parts of help wash dishes and coordinate things, a bad news for you. If you don't like it, I don't the globe are here to see the most unlikely of chef and myself. We made five shows a day give a damn. I just say it with a smile. TV personalities ― the Chinese-born, Hong and 130 shows in 24 days. People around Kong-trained, US-based star of Yan Can the world were just beginning to be curious Cooking shows have come a long way since Cook, one of the longest-running cooking about Chinese food and culture. [At that you started. There are now entire channels shows on television, chalking up more than time], it was all chop suey and chow mein. devoted to food. How do you feel about the 1,900 shows and travelogues broadcast Our generation was the first to showcase “celebrity chef” trend? in over 50 countries, including Vietnam. traditional regional cuisine. Renowned for his humor and slapstick, it MY: When I started, there was a total of isn’t long before Chef Yan has a frizzy-haired As an Asian chef with heavily accented three shows, along with Julia Child. Now Australian teen up at the demonstration English, competing with traditionally cooking has become massive. It's not just table, ungainly wielding a cleaver with the Caucasian TV hosts, did you experience any teaching cooking... Martha Stewart and malaise of someone who's never seen the discrimination? Rachel Ray have become talk show hosts. inside of a kitchen. Within minutes though, [But] I was never a personality. I'm a she's slamming down the knife with ninja MY: A lot of my friends have experienced professional. I'm a cooking teacher. On PBS precision, flattening, peeling and mincing racism, a glass ceiling for Asians, but I've [the TV home of Yan Can Cook], we're much cloves of garlic in one fell swoop. Oi sat down been fortunate. My style is different from a more low key than the Food Network which with Chef Yan to talk discrimination, the lot of TV hosts... I'm always having a good is a commercial entity. I've never considered celebrity chef phenomena and what it’ll take time. When you have fun, people have fun, so myself to be in the entertainment industry. I for Vietnamese cuisine to gain international they're less critical. When you smile, no one have no pony tails or rings. Nowadays they acclaim. can give you a hard time. I'm sharing my love all have tattoos... I'm an Old School guy. and passion of food, the thing we all love; I'm How I would define a “celebrity chef,” a true Yan Can Cook debuted in 1978. What was the not talking about religion or politics. When I master, is someone who can turn simple

40 Chinese food. If you go to the US, most Vietnamese restaurants are just pho and nothing else. People don't truly appreciate [the cuisine] because it's not offered on the menu. I think it takes that certain step and certain people to help promote it. There's no single famous Vietnamese chef to help promote it yet. I'm not an expert in Vietnamese cuisine, but I hope to introduce it through my show and bring it to a different level. You're here as a culinary ambassador for the WMC Group which has restaurants all over the city, including Cafe Central, Amigo and Ngan Dinh. What’s restaurant consulting like?

MY: Chefs in the kitchen can get tired. They don't have time to be inspired. I'm here, not to teach them how to cook, but to inspire them. In classic Chinese cuisine, the entire meal is cooked in one pot. In the old days, they didn't have enough big plates, so at big parties everything was put together in one pot and everyone just dug in: family, friends, villagers. Maybe one family had chicken, another family a fish. You could taste my mother's cooking skill, each family's recipe. I’m all about classic Chinese dishes with modern presentation. I'm just adding my personal touch, my signature, like an artist, so when you see it, you know who made it, like the touch of wasabi in my Yin Yang Shrimp dish, or my Fish in Pumpkin Sauce with a bit of caviar. Just that extra touch transforms the whole dish. I want to leave a legacy with the restaurants I work with. Martin was here and now the dumplings taste different. Of all your projects - restaurants, cooking schools, more than 30 cookbooks and 3,700 cooking shows broadcast worldwide - what's brought you the most satisfaction?

MY: Twenty-five years ago, people were ingredients into magic. Turn nothing into that no one wants to use. Look at broken rice, never exposed to regional cuisine. Food something. a dish that turns a wasted, useless ingredient habits are hard to shake, worse than trying into a gourmet dining experience, creating to get someone to quit smoking. But now, in You've been to Vietnam many times and something out of nothing. These broken rice many cities, you have everything, including have even done a cooking / travel series on ladies make one dish for 40 years so they regional specialties. I wouldn't say that what Vietnam. What about the country appeals become experts in that single dish. You can we've done has contributed significantly to to you? call them ‘single dish restaurants.’ How can that, but what we've done promoting Chinese you beat them in quality and expertise? food and culture has at least encouraged MY: We spent 60 days traveling all over In Vietnam, without huge highways, people to be curious. Vietnam, and completed 26 shows for people have to eat locally. In America, during You know, I have done so much that Martin's Taste of Vietnam [broadcast winter, things are grown somewhere else everything else is just a bonus. For instance, throughout Vietnam in 2013]. It was the and picked when they're green. Papayas are I was recently selected for the Top 10 first time Vietnam has been introduced green, tomatoes are green, bananas are green; Outstanding Chinese Award. Ten people out with such a massive undertaking. We went they're tasteless. Here there are fish tanks of 1.4 billion who've made a contribution to a fish sauce manufacturer in Phu Quoc, right in the restaurant. How many times have to China! People are always telling me that harvested birds' nests, experienced some you gone into a Western restaurant and seen when they were kids, they watched my fascinating things. that? Frozen is not the same as fresh. show instead of cartoons. In my approach The people all over are Vietnam so to cooking, "Yan can, so can you!", I try charming. When they talk, I don't know What will it take for Vietnamese cuisine to to inspire people. I want to create happy whether they're talking or singing. The explode internationally to the degree that families and happy kitchens. Vietnamese diet is also wonderful. I love the Chinese and Thai food has? I always tell people that I love what I do pomelo salad, papaya salad, the big pancakes so much, the paycheck is just a bonus. I'd you can throw anything in to. MY: Vietnamese food is going through the be happy to do it for free, but they insist on There are dishes made of leftover things same path as chop suey and chow mein of paying me!

41 RESTAURANT REVIEW The Unicorn An eclectic combination of German food with Japanese sushi

Text by Robert Stockdill Images by Adam Robert Young

Fusion food is all the rage these days, with many combinations of cuisines tempting the taste buds of diners the world over. Ho Chi Minh City is no different - and the newest entrant into the fusion category is a small, homely restaurant and cafe called Indaba (35 Ly Tu Trong, D1). Read the word “Indaba” and you might at first think it’s an Indian restaurant. It’s not. “Indaba” is another term in Europe for the mythical unicorn, the legendary horse with the single horn in its head, a symbol of power, purity and grace. Owner Tai Nguyen is the restaurant’s chef. He cut his teeth in Bavaria, southern Germany, most recently working in a well- known Japanese restaurant in Munich which explains the combination of German food and Japanese sushi on the menu. Tai told Oi that when he designed the restaurant he wanted to create somewhere warm and inviting. “I want the people who come to our restaurant to feel like they’ve come to our home.” In time he’d like to be able to ask customers what they’d like to eat and to prepare something especially. The first step towards that goal is to make regular menu changes. Tai plans to change out items every few weeks so there is always a surprise for diners who return. Indaba opened in November 2013 and is open daily from 9am to as late as 2am. He wants to cater not just to regular diners, but to those who work late shifts who want to chill out after clocking out. As a place to chill, Indaba hits the spot. The decor is all warm reds with orange and yellow strips of paint, dark brown tables, cream trim, with an eclectic collection of framed photographs on the walls, candles and bold light shades hanging from the ceiling. At the rear there is a small mezzanine floor where you can relax, shoeless on cushions around low-rise tables in semi privacy, as if floating above the kitchen below. Our Meal We choose a quiet night to try out the fusion menu, which gave us the chance to chat with

42 “I want the people who come to our restaurant to feel like they’ve come to our home”

Tai about his culinary background and seek his recommendations for starters and mains. He nominated the Indaba Spring Rolls and a half portion of his Mexican BBQ Spare Ribs special for starters, an intriguing contrast of flavors and styles, and neither distinctively Japanese or German. The Spring Rolls (VND75,000) were nothing like the common Vietnamese style. The three rolls were round and deep fried, but there any similarity with Vietnamese or Asian spring rolls ended; these were stuffed with tuna and mixed veggies, they were crumbed and crunchy on the outside; soft, smoky and dry on the inside. Served with a mayo-based dipping sauce and a generous portion of salad topped with juicy red tomato halves, the dish was morish and filling, reminiscent of delicious European smoked fish pies this reviewer enjoyed as a child. The Mexican spare ribs (VND180,000) are a favorite of Tai. We were glad these were served starter size because they were large and meaty - with a sweet, flavorsome sauce balanced with a healthy dose of spice. The meat virtually fell from the bone and the garnish of sliced potatoes and garlic added an intriguing complexity to the meat and spice. For mains we opted for very different meats to test the breadth of the menu: Grilled Duck Breast served with sesame sauce, steamed rice and salad (VND270,000), and Grilled Salmon with Teriyaki sauce (VND240,000). This reviewer has too often tried duck cooked by French chefs which were overly rare and tougher than leather, so we were a little reluctant to sample duck from another European chef. But Tai’s duck was superbly cooked: tender and tasty, not the least bit chewy. It was accompanied by a generous fresh salad and soba noodles (not rice as the menu declared) which were creamy and soft and a surprisingly good accompaniment: Eastern noodles meet European duck. The salmon also easily passed the test. Beneath a sweet, crunchy skin, the pink flesh was tender and moist, the flavor preserved and the texture smooth. It, too, came with a generous serving of fresh salad and rice. Indaba has a good range of wines by glass or bottle, a high quality coffee machine and a comprehensive spirit and cocktail list. So whether the occasion is coffee, brunch, dinner, a romantic evening drink or a meeting place late at night, Indaba is a warm, welcoming, cozy destination at almost any time of the day.

43 RESTAURANT REVIEW Curry Cravings A tempting place to satiate your Indian food cravings whether at home or dining out Text by Robert Stockdill Images by Adam Robert Young

Baba’s Kitchen (164 Bui Vien, D1, tel: four or more) because there are so many Chicken (VND90,000), an Indian staple 3838 6661), one of the city’s most popular dishes to choose from that ordering many which he told us is very popular with his Indian restaurants, has shed the shackles and sharing them (provided you can all Vietnamese customers. Mutton gets a bad of District 1, opening a modern takeaway agree on the heat rating) is the best way rap in many parts of the world, especially and delivery service facility in District 2. to experience the taste of India, not to in New Zealand and Australia, where Backpackers in transit through the city mention a great social experience. Our sheep meat is spurned unless labeled lamb are often disappointed not to get a seat at group numbered just two, so the feast (meaning the beast is less than one year Baba’s Kitchen because the restaurant is before us seemed like a painting of the old when killed). The difference of a few so well frequented by local residents who Last Supper. Roasted papadam (VND12,000 days makes little difference to the flavor or know its secret: they’ll travel from several each), with their crunchy texture and texture when cooked with the sort of array districts afield for their fix of mutton delicately flavored grains, are an essential of herbs and spices the Indians use, so korma, onion pakora or chicken tandoori, start to any Indian meal. Then followed Antipodeans should not be shy to try it. and garlic naan bread. starters of onion pakora (VND50,000) and Then came a fish garlicTikka But such is the constraint of your chicken samosa (VND50,000). The onion (VND95,000) from the tandoor oven, not atypical Bui Vien retail space, the kitchen pakora was delicious. Deep fried in a thin, too dry or oily - just right - the flesh flakey was until recently struggling to keep light batter coating, you can dip them and light, and no irritating bones getting in pace with the fast turning tables of diners in mango chutney or mint or just savor the way. Cheese naan (VND40,000) - rich and the ever-growing demand for home the sweet onion flavor on its own. The and full of flavor helped soak up the curry deliveries. So in District 2, the team has samosas were soft with a delicate hint of sauce - but having a hint of sweetness, this opened a giant stand alone kitchen and spice and perfect mix of potato, chicken can easily be enjoyed on its own so long takeaway outlet on Tran Nao in the and vegetables; a half dozen of these would as consumed while hot as it tends to get a shadow of the new Thao Dien Pearl twin make a meal in itself. little dry on the edges when cooled. tower apartments and adjacent to the new And then the main dishes started to And then of course, there was rice metro railway line under construction. come. Another hallmark of the restaurant (starting from VND30,000) - lightly fried The face of Baba’s Kitchen is Robin, a is the generous servings. All too often with finely chopped vegetables and egg, strikingly tall, soft spoken native Indian, who in my experience with other Indian light tasty and fragrant and somehow more greeted us with a beaming smile and urged restaurants (outside Vietnam) starters have moist than Chinese stir-fried rice, for sure. us to try an eye-popping array of dishes. One been of generous proportions and when the No review of Baba’s Kitchen would be of the best things about Baba’s Kitchen is curries arrive they’re served in tiny bowls complete without a reference to the cute little that its food has no predetermined levels of with as few as three chunks of meat or fish tin mugs in which water is served (yes, water spiciness. If you crave a tear-fuelling mouth- swimming in a watery sauce. By default, is free. Other HCMC restaurateurs take note). burning experience, just ask. But if your taste the rice becomes the actual meal. But We can’t explain why, but they leave a lasting buds are overly sensitive to hot spice, then Baba’s Kitchen’s mains are more generous. impression - but not as much as the delicious say the word and you, too, can enjoy the The curries have just the right balance of flavor of the food. delicately blended spices of India without meat and sauce. The tandoor oven cooked Now, if the crowds of Bui Vien downing spoonfuls of yogurt after every bite meats and fish are large chunky morsels discourage you from visiting Baba’s to cool the pain. ready to dip in sauces. Kitchen, you can rest assured wherever you Robin chose a MuttonKorma live in Ho Chi Minh City’s main districts, Our Meal (VND105,000) rich and meaty and not too you can experience Baba’s Kitchen at home Indian food is best enjoyed by a group (of spicy (exactly as requested) and Butter fresh and hot.

44 Propagating the Food A message for the hungry Text by Michael Arnold Images by Ngoc Tran

As if she hadn’t done enough already sauce (VND70,000). Served cut into slices, acquired a kitsch status not unlike the pop for the hungry of Ho Chi Minh City, bistro they look more like sushi than they do rolls oeuvre of Andy Warhol. It’s a bold move queen Noelle Carr-Ellison last month rolled – which only makes one wonder why this for a French national to broach a political out yet another restaurant – this time isn’t more common, as they’re far easier to motif, but Noelle doesn’t believe she’s right next door to Au Parc, the venue that dip and eat this way. She’s right about the being particularly cheeky in borrowing the started it all back in 2002. Propaganda taste – the egg and avocado serve to soften iconography for the restaurant. (21 Han Thuyen, D1) is perhaps a kitschy the crunchy vegetables and chewy wrap, “I think the art form is really meaningful,” spin-off from Hoa Tuc – but while it does and the rice lends an earthy warmth absent she says. “I want to show people that this follow the same formula of serving high- from the standard white rice versions. art is actually pretty cool.” The huge mural quality Vietnamese food to a mixed crowd The use of brown rice is actually one of that dominates the ground floor area of well-to-do locals and curious expats, the restaurant’s drawcards, and several is a new work in the war-era style that Propaganda’s dishes aren’t exactly your dishes are brought into sharper definition by Noelle had commissioned herself, which traditional local fare. trading out white for brown. The signature conscientiously avoids sensitive themes. The “Don’t go near us with the word ‘fusion,’” noodle dish, Propaganda noodles with tofu, inspiring slogan translates as “every day I warns Noelle, leaning conspiratorially puffed brown rice and chili-peanut-shallot choose a different dish,” a play on a Trinh over one of the tables at her sunny new crunch (also VND70,000) is reminiscent of Cong Son lyric rather than a call to arms. venue. “I think it’s not really that different many local bun dishes stirred through with But that’s not to say Propaganda doesn’t from Vietnamese food. We use 100 percent sauce and herbs, but without the tartness tout its own agenda; albeit one more Vietnamese ingredients; it’s just that no and pungency they’re usually associated nutritional than political. French manager one’s ever done, say, a spring roll with an with. That’s not to say it isn’t flavorsome Cindy Kawak, who coaches informally on omelet and avocado in it. I don’t know – the puffed rice and rich tofu are almost healthy living and plans to run a course why, because they eat omelet, and they chocolatey in combination. The same goes on the subject in the event space above the eat avocado, and they eat brown rice, and for the crunchy tri-colored rice with seafood restaurant, sees the venue as an opportunity they eat rolls – but nobody’s ever put that and vegetables (VND125,000), served in a to popularize good eating. “There’s an combination together before. So it’s not clay pot – far, far less oil than you’d expect empty space upstairs, so we can play with really ‘not doing Vietnamese food,’ it’s more for this kind of dish, and a particularly that. Yoga [or] an art show.” like taking the chefs and shaking them a bit, delicious option for the kids. Cindy was also instrumental in a group and saying, ‘You know, you’ve been doing The desserts are similarly outstanding. effort to match international wines with the same thing for a hundred years, can we The sticky coconut rice with fresh mango Vietnamese cuisine, resulting in a special have something new please?’” and coconut cream (VND70,000) is as full- dinner set menu allowing guests to sample If ‘fusion’ isn’t the correct term, then bodied as a creamy gateau, and the soursop a range of wines with complementary local perhaps 'remix' best describes the cuisine and palm sugar homemade ice cream with dishes. here. True fans of Vietnamese national its whole mouthfuls of blended fresh fruit is Come early to try the venue’s dishes will find the menu both familiar as much a clever reinterpretation of a very extraordinary homemade banh mi and surprising, while those who’ve never common dessert as the Vietnamese dishes breakfasts, the fresh bread somehow quite managed to acquire a taste for the are of theirs. channeling the essence of the baguette pho and the fish sauce will find themselves back into the local loaves it originally unexpectedly drawn to these fresh, rebooted Kitsch Dining inspired. Drop in between 5pm and 8pm versions of old classics in new contexts. Like all the bistro-style restaurants opened after work to try theApéro menu, featuring The rolls are very much a case in point. under Noelle’s wing, the venue itself is free appetizers based on local street food We took Noelle’s advice and tried her own airy, classy, and very consciously styled to with any bottle of wine over VND380,000. personal innovation, the fresh spring rolls its theme – in this case, the propaganda Chances are you’re very likely to succumb with omelet, avocado, brown rice, and soya art of wartime Vietnam, which has since to Propaganda’s party line.

45 The List Wine & Dine

freshly baked baguettes, croissants, tea drinks. They also serve sandwiches international cuisine like pizza, burgers, bakeries chocolate breads, charcuteries, pastries, and salads. pasta and more. Celebrates happy hour finest macaroons and other French Nguyen Thi Minh Khai corner Cao Thang, D1 from 5 to 7pm, and frequently provides ABC Bakery & Cafe delicacies prepared daily. Special products Vincom Center A, 171 Dong Khoi, D1 live music. The bakery serves more than 30 imported from France are also available 2 Cao Thang, D3 19 Thai Van Lung, D1 different baked products ranging from such as French oysters, Damman Freres www.parisvn.com 3822 1720 baguettes to pizza slices, along with a luxury tea, and a range of authentic wide selection of drinks such as coffee products. Pat’a Chou Blanchy’s Tash and fruit juices. Ground floor, Sofitel Saigon Plaza French-style bakery with charming décor. This cocktail lounge is a perfect place to 223-225 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 17 Le Duan, D1 Specializing in baguettes, fresh croissants relax with friends, meet with colleagues or 3824 1555 of various varieties, small quiches, and just enjoy a cocktail or two. With plenty of Bread Talk cakes for every occasion. seating around the central bar as well as With a mission to revitalize the once-stale Harvest Baking 74B Hai Ba Trung, D1 tables for couples or larger groups, plus a business of bread, Singaporean BreadTalk 3824 8179 more intimate VIP area with comfortable now has outlets throughout Asia and Harvest Baking offers a delivery-based 5am - 10pm sofas, you will find the right space for any has established itself in several HCMC bakery service with a charitable focus, occasion. locations. A brand partnership with Gloria teaching young Vietnamese hopefuls Savouré Bakery 95 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Jeans has seen a wide range of bakery how to bake delicious breads and cakes Shops have a wide selection of cookies, www.blanchystash.com goods available in the cafés, with both through their food training program. sweet and savory breads and cakes 090 902 8293 brands sharing the premises at this 30 Lam Son, Tan Binh including cashew chocolate, taro and Blue Gecko location. 3547 0577 orange. Custom cakes can be ordered for

106 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 harvestbaking.net weddings and holidays. Blue Gecko provides a classic bar 3930 3181 7am - 5pm Monday-Saturday Unit E3, 1st Floor, Saigon Tax Trade Centre, experience complete with a pool table, 135 Nguyen Hue, D1 darts board, cold beer and friendly staff. Brodard Bakery Kinh Do Bakery 3914 3773 Guests can watch live sports and relax in

www.savourebakery.com the comfortable ambience of the bar. Brodard Bakery has been operating in Kinh Do Bakery makes reasonably priced 31 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Saigon for over 30 years. It provides finely baked goods to-go, such as cakes and Schneider’s Cafe & Tea Corner 3824 3483 crafted cakes for all occasions in addition cupcakes, tarts, sandwiches, Vietnamese The bakers at Schneider’s offer fresh, [email protected] to ice cream, pastries, chocolate and tarts. “banh bao”, Western-style hamburgers healthy, delicious breads, cakes, and www.bluegeckosaigon.com 95 Nguyen Hue, D1 and mini-pizzas and gelatin-based pastries, introducing Ho Chi Minh City to 4.30pm - 12am 3821 2416 desserts. eight centuries of German baking tradition. 6am - 10pm 128A Hai Ba Trung, D1 27 Han Thuyen, D1 Bootleg DJ Café 3829 6552 2229 6910 Cakewalk Cupcakes kinhdobakery.vn www.schneiders-finest.com Modern, moody, and minimalist cafe bar 6am - 10.30pm 9.30am - 9pm with reasonable prices by day, chic lounge Small boutique cupcake shop offers Tous Les Jours with DJs playing by night. Has a limited cupcakes with panache. Traditional La Doree menu of sandwiches and other health- cupcakes as well as new, creative flavors Providing patrons with over 50 varieties of conscious Italian fare. A Korean owned French-style bakery are sure to satisfy everyone who is cakes, along with a rich sandwich menu 9 Le Thanh Ton, D1 franchise serving fresh baked bread and compelled to bend to the will of their from luxurious French-designed premises. 090 760 9202 popular pastries, all baked on-site. sweet tooth. La Doree is the best place in town for [email protected] 84 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 macaroons. 180 Hai Ba Trung, D1 6295 9087 216 Ly Tu Trong, D1 3823 8302 Boston Sports Bar 10am - 9pm 3822 1718 6am - 11pm www.ladoree.com Located in the heart of the backpacker Cheesecake Ngon Oi’s Pick 7am - 9.30pm area, Boston Sports Bar is open 24 hours Cheesecake Ngon is a small boutique- bars and provides guests with a modern style cheesecake shop. They use only L’amour Bakery & Cafe bar-going experience. The bar boasts a top quality local and imported ingredients More than just another bakery, L’amour Ahoy Beer Club pool table, live sports on LCD TVs, and that give their cakes their signature is the perfect place for those whom are Recently opened, this nautical themed western food. smooth, creamy taste. They can provide looking for respite from busy HCMC. bar serves local and imported beer 28/4 Bui Vien, D1 cheesecakes for all occasions: birthdays, This patisserie offers a large selection of along with food served by wait staff in 6656 6338 functions, cafe/restaurant supply or European cake and pastry, fresh juice and sailor outfits. even just a single slice. With a range of coffee. You will also find pastas, salads, 79 Nguyen Cong Tru, D1 Broma Saigon Bar flavors including passionfruit, raspberry, and sandwiches, ideal for lunch time. Allez Boo strawberry, lemon, coconut and of Open from 6am – 10:30pm Famously known for 'not being a bar' course original and a price starting at 24 Hai Ba Trung D1 Broma is one of Ho Chi Minh City's most VND40,000 per slice. A popular bar in Saigon featuring tropical popular hangouts with prices ranging 44 Truong Quyen, D3 Nhu Lan Bakery bamboo decor, multiple levels and a DJ from VND30,000 - VND500,000. Broma spinning funky beats. This unique bar www.cheesecakesnow.com One of the most famous and prestigious is a more upscale option for those wishing offers a wide range of beers, shakes, 3610 0211 local brands of bakeries in the city, Nhu to escape the cheap drinks in The Pham. spirits cocktails and food throughout Lan Bakery supplies bakery products, 41 Nguyen Hue, D.1 Fly Cupcake the day. cakes, bread, ham, sausage, poultry, 3823 6838 The shop specializes in various flavors 187 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 roasted pork, and dried foods. [email protected] of cupcakes. 6291 5424 50 Ham Nghi, D1 74E Hai Ba Trung, D1 [email protected] Cargo Bar 3829 2970 06 Pham Ngoc Thach, D1 24 hours Cargo Bar is a dedicated music and www.nhulan.vn www.flycupcake.vn arts venue designed and committed to 4am - 12am Alpha delivering diverse entertainment, along Givral Pacey Cupcakes Alpha is a sports bar recently opened on with a good drink menu. The cakes and tradition of this unique the first level of The Manor. Offers weekly 7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 This cozy little bakery features elegant cake shop have captivated generations promotions such as Manor Mondays www.facebook.com/cargosaigon of Vietnamese customers. With many décor and offers 12 kinds of cupcakes (happy hour all day for Manor residents), outlets throughout the city, this particular daily, located near the cathedral in a hip, Teacher Tuesdays (happy hour all day Carmen Bar store was reopened in 2010 on its original modern setting. for teachers), Thirsty Thursdays (two for Carmen Bar features a small cavern-like 53G Nguyen Du, D1 site at Vincom A, built on the old Eden one on all cocktails), Sport Saturdays entrance with rough rock walls decorated te x pats complex. 3823 3223 (screening sports from around the world) with ambient lighting. With an exclusive 171 Dong Khoi, D1 [email protected] and on Sundays movie nights by the range of drinks and cocktails, guests 3822 8659 www.paceycupcakes.com pool and a roast dinner. can relax while enjoying tunes from an www.saigongivral.com 9am - 10pm The Manor, Level 1, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, excellent Flamenco band. 6am - 10pm Binh Thanh 8 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Paris Baguette 3829 7699 Gourmand Shop Korean chain Paris Baguette offers fresh Bernie’s Bar & Grill baked products such as cakes, pastries, Charm Bar bread, as well as assorted coffee and Unassuming expat bar in the central city A traditional delicatessen shop featuring An Irish bar and restaurant serving A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 46 with table soccer and an upstairs floor for good music (customers can choose the breakfast, lunch and dinner. The bar also Plaza complex. private functions. Opens late night. music) friendly staff, light pub food, weekly has an extensive drink menu that includes 39 Le Duan, D1 58 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 quiz night (Mondays), darts and televised coffees, juices, beers, wines, vodkas and 6291 7595 3915 3826 sport. Try a challenge shot from the big more. Besides being a good place to www.hardrockcafe.vn [email protected] Chilli on the bartop. watch games, Game On also boasts a 11.30am - 2am 104 Ho Tung Mau, D1 function room for corporate meetings or Chill Skybar 09 8376 3372 private parties. Heaven Bar Saigon Offers the most stunning panoramic [email protected] 115 Ho Tung Mau, D1 views of Saigon and a wide range of 4pm-4am 6251 9898 Standing out from other nightclubs, wines and cocktails personally prepared Heaven Bar impresses their guests with [email protected] by Vietnam mixologist Le Thanh Tung. Chu Bar nice decor in tone of red and blue, a broad 8am till late Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, D1 range of sparkling drinks, Ladies’ night, www.chillsaigon.com At this beautiful, laid back venue, tourists Ginger 60 awesome DJ at weekend, and many and locals alike can sit around Chu’s large exciting events for expats. Boudoir Lounge oval bar or on luxurious padded benches. 8 Le Quy Don, D3 It has a full cocktail menu as well as a A low-key expat bar with an extensive 090 534 3316 Designed to look like a lived-in yet short menu of snacks and sandwiches. drink menu and live music in a friendly www.barsaigonheaven.com immaculately styled Parisien home with 158 Dong Khoi, D1 atmosphere. 5pm - 2am plush leather sofas, silk cushions and 3822 3907 60 Ton That Thiep, D1 velvet armchairs, Boudoir Lounge serves 7am - Midnight 093 772 1011 Ice Blue up everything from afternoon tea to evening cocktails along with signature Cloud 9 Rooftop Lounge Go2 A small, atmospheric, emphatically dishes for any occasion from informal English-style pub, Ice Blue is a popular meals and business lunches to gourmet Located near Turtle Lake, this stunning bar Go2 is a popular nightspot in the meeting place for Ho Chi Minh City’s canapés accompanying evening drinks. offers panoramic views of Saigon. Guests backpackers area. This two level bar offers expats with reasonably priced drinks, Ground floor, Saigon Sofitel Plaza can peruse an extensive international dancing, shisha, and a streetside view friendly staff and a cozy atmosphere. 17 Le Duan, D1 wine list or choose from an array of with comfortable seating. The bar also Great place to play darts. 3824 1555 creative cocktails and international beers. has a pool table and extensive western 54 Dong Khoi, D1 Level 6&7, Hai Nam Building, 2 Bis Cong food menu. 3822 2664 Brotzeit German Bier Bar & Truong Quoc, D3 187 De Tham, D1 3pm - 1am Restaurant 090 944 5544 3836 9575 Kim’s Tavern The HCMC venue is in the flashy Kumho Eon51 Hair of the Dog complex on the edge of the central Eon51 includes a fine dining restaurant, a An expat bar on the edge of the A large space creating an interesting bar district, and features a wide 24-meter champagne lounge, a cigar bar and a heli downtown shopping district renowned for with an alfresco sidewalk area downstairs, restaurant frontage on the mezzanine pad cocktail friendly, attractive staff, cold beer, and a and an upper lounge area overlooking the level and a contemporary and chic setting bar. Spread on three levels, Eon51 is a relaxed ‘local pub’ environment. with German-inspired wooden benches destination for bespoke private and lower bar that allows for a view of the DJ 20 Huynh Thuc Khang, D1 and a long wooden bar counter. Serving corporate events in Saigon. station. If it follows its Hanoi theme, it will 090 777 5141 te x pats authentic Bavarian cuisines and premium Levels 51-52, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 be a DJ music-focused nightclub. 4pm - 1am beers. Hai Trieu, D1 194 Bui Vien, D1 39 Le Duan, D1 6291 8751 Last Call Oi’s Pick 9822 4206 www.eon51.com Hard Rock Café brotzeit.co/kumholink 7am - 2am A fine hole-in-the-wall cocktail bar in the Memorabilia from Hard Rock’s iconic centre of town opposite the Sheraton Chilli Pub Saigon Oi’s Pick Game On collection adorns the walls of Hard Rock Hotel, Last Call is a 70's themed lounge Opened in July, Game On is Saigon’s Café Ho Chi Minh City and there is live with a permanent neon glow. Now one of newest and biggest sports bar that serves the most popular expat/hip local late

©2013 A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013 A fun place to unwind, with cold drinks, music most nights. Located in the Kumho

47 evening bars, with a small deck from menu, this is a fun place to socialize while spot for an after-dinner drink with an spirit of the interior design. which to overlook the nightlife set on shooting pool, playing darts, or chatting extensive martini list and delicious BBQ 63/1 Pasteur, D1 Dung Du. with the friendly staff. menu. A tad difficult to find above a BMW 6660 9040 59 Dong Du, D1 74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 dealership, but accessible from the hotel it www.aishalounge.com 3823 3122 3829 3198 is worth the effort. www.irish-barsaigon.com 3rd Floor, Moevenpick Hotel, 253 Nguyen AQ Coffee Le Pub Van Troi, Phu Nhuan Phatty’s Beautiful café situated in one of the city’s 3844 9222 oldest French mansions, serving coffee A sports bar offering a selection of ice- In a brawny Australian snub to the effete 5pm - 11pm made with traditionally-roasted coffee cold local and imported beers as well as a vestiges of French Colonialism that beans. pervade in Saigon, Le Pub is a hearty complete range of tasty pub food. Central Spotted Cow 32 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Oz-styled pub proudly located in a small features are the TVs, connected to an 3829 8344 alleyway between Pham Ngu Lao and Bui extensive sports channel network. Hearty breakfasts, great pub grub, cheap 7.30am - 11.30pm Vien st, Opposite the Chua Au lac arch, 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 drinks and the latest sport on TV make where it is a magnet for backpackers and this an appealing destination for tourists blokey expats. The manager and staff are Purple Jade of all budgets. Located in the heart of the Angel-in-us Coffee friendly enough too, I suppose. Purple Jade is a stylish and chic venue backpacker district. A sophisticated and classy coffee 175/22 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 with exceptional world class cocktails by 111 Bui Vien, D1 franchise with exemplary attention to 3837 7679 the city’s award-winning bartender along 3920 7670 detail, Angel-in-us has a pretty angel wing www.lepub.org with snacks to melt away the bustle of [email protected] motif and a quality coffee menu. the city. 11am - 12pm 145 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Lion Brewery and Restaurant First floor- InterContinental Asiana Saigon 3827 8588 The brewery offers its signature Lion beer, Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan Storm P facebook.com/angelinuscoffeevn brewed by its German master brewer, 3520 9099 Storm P restaurant and bar is named after who trained in Germany, along with other www.intercontinental.com/saigon the famous Danish cartoonist Robert Blue Cafe kinds of beer. The Lion restaurant has two Storm Petersen, and it’s the only Danish banquet halls that can accommodate 530 restaurant in Vietnam. A sprawling, unique cafe in Go Vap, with persons. 5B Nguyen Sieu, D1 indoor-outdoor seating and an attempt to 11-13 Cong Truong Lam Son, D1 3827 4738 recreate the appeal of rural Dalat. Enjoy www.lionsaigon.com www.stormp.vn the shade inside, or sit outside amidst the 10am - late greenery and watch aircraft taking off from Long Phi Ton Sat airport. Extensive menu and broad One of the staples in the backpacker Vasco’s range of coffees and chilled drinks. district, Long Phi is a no-frills bar that 701-703 Phan Van Tri, Go Vap doubles as a cheap diner serving some Stylish bar, restaurant and cocktail lounge 3588 6824 fairly decent French and European cuisine. in a converted colonial style house. www.mtvcafe.com.vn 207 Bui Vien, D1 European and Asian fare downstairs 7am - 11pm 3837 2704 with extensive wine list and cocktails. DJs perform upstairs at night. Lush 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, D1 Bobby Brewer’s Lush has a highly distinctive, modern look, 3824 2888 with different areas catering to different RED Bar www.vascosgroup.com A contemporary cafe in the backpacker needs, including a VIP space with plush RED offers one of the longest Happy area set over three floors, the cafe couches for chatting with hot new friends. Hours in Saigon, from 9am - 9pm, Wine Embassy features a large free cinema, a great 2 Ly Tu Trong, D1 with live music available from Monday For those looking to relax and enjoy a place for couples. www.lush.com.vn - Saturday. This multi-level bar has glass of wine after work, Wine Embassy is 45 Bui Vien, D1 a non-smoking floor and a function the perfect place with wine specialists and 3920 4090 room along with a top quality pool M52 Bar table and soft-tip dart machines. A an interactive menu to help you pair your www.bobbybrewers.com menu of Eastern and Western dishes wine with crafted food. A bar catering primarily to foreigners. also includes wood-fire pizzas. 13 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Boulevard Cafe Offers a simple setting for a night of 70-72 Ng Duc Ke, District 1 3824 7827 drinking in the company of friends. 2229 7017 www.wineembassy.com.vn This Parisian-style cafe has a fine, white 34 Ton That Thiep, D1 4pm till late tone and a warm ambiance that attempts 3821 0151 11am - late a look of luxury with its plush sofas and 5pm - 12am Saigon Saigon Bar chandeliers. Xu Bar 98 Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Miss Saigon Oi’s Pick In wartime Saigon, the rooftop of the A cocktail hot spot with Coconut Martinis, Caravelle hotel was one of the most Cranelo Sparkles and Passion Fruit Bukafe - Cafe Recently opened, this quaint and cozy bar popular drinking holes in the city for Caprioska on offer along with a variety offers great service and delicious cocktails foreign journalists and expat embassy of tapas with DJs and drink specials This quaint cafe offers a Japanese style for those looking to quench their thirst staff – and it remains one of the most throughout the week. sought-out casual tourist attractions in setting with chairs that have you seated after work. Beers start at VND30,000 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 the city today. Panoramic views of Saigon and cocktails start at VND55,000 with www.xusaigon.com on the ground. While offering elegant can still be obtained on the garden terrace happy hour from 6pm – 8pm where beers drinks and tasty simple dishes, make sure despite all the construction, and efforts cost VND20,000. Open from 6pm to to catch the live bands. It won't set you have been made to preserve the original midnight. cafés back much either with inexpensive drinks. character of the venue with its multiple 8A/1C1 Thai Van Lung, D1 43 Nguyen Huu Cau, D1 ceiling fans, subdued decor, and quietly ABC Bakery & Cafe 090 265 2635 romantic atmosphere with oil candles on MTV ABC Bakery & Cafe has over 30 different [email protected] the table tops. kinds of baked goods such as baguettes, 19 Lam Son Square, D1 A large Vietnamese cafe in D3 spread danishes, whole cakes, sliced cakes and Café Ban Sonate 3823 4999 over two levels with space for quiet even pizza. Together with its range of www.caravellehotel.com/en/1/15/325/ Cafe Ban Sonate is a peaceful haven, romantic chat or larger group meets. baked items, it is also has Western and products.aspx tucked away from the boisterous noise Serves a broad range of coffees and Vietnamese coffee and juices. of the city. This cafe offers elegant decor chilled drinks. Saigon Retro Oi’s Pick 223 - 225 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 along with indoor and outdoor seating 65 Vo Van Tan, D3 www.abcbnc.com options. 3930 2597 One of the newest expat bars on the 53 Dang Dung, D1 www.mtvcafe.com.vn block, offering friendly bar service. Live Achaya Cafe 3290 6004 sport on screen, including English Premier Number Five Bar League. Achaya Cafe have two floors providing a Caffe Fresco Number Five Bar has become notorious nice atmosphere for meeting, relaxation or 113 Ho Tung Mau, D1 for its “all you can drink” draught tiger beer party. The menu is extensive with drinks 6278 2349 A new player on the scene currently offer. Attractive waitresses are always and Western, Japanese, Vietnamese 4pm - 2am battling for supremacy in the coffee chain enthusiastic contestants on the billiards food from sandwiches, spaghetties, market, Fresco offers a wide range of table. Shots Bar pizzas, steak and special Japanese sweet 44 Pasteur, D1 desserts. espresso and local coffees, juices and

A corner bar on Bui Vien that, along with te x pats smoothies. 3915 3150 drinks, serves a variety of food such as 90 Le Loi, D1 121 Le Loi, D1 [email protected] seafood, pork and chicken dishes. 093 897 2050 3pm - 1am 207 Bui Vien, D1 11am - 10:30pm 3821 1009 www.fresco.com.vn O’Brien’s Oi’s Pick Slate Aisha Lounge Two-storey Irish-themed bar & restaurant Café Terrace furnished to high standard. O’Brien’s Slate takes its name from the dark grey Aisha offers a menu studded with various promotes a relaxed, comfortable slate tiling that covers the floor of the Vietnamese drinks and food – although Cafe Terrace is a popular modern cafe/

atmosphere. Known for its excellent food entire establishment. A modern, relaxing the belly dance show does evoke the restaurant in the chic Saigon Center. This A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 48 cozy, dimly lit cafe offers customers a long fresh cream) and Cryptic yogurt (with locals and expats alike is steadily growing coffee shop with cheap espresso and outdoor terrace with views of the bustling yogurt, mango, strawberry, peach). in Vietnam. iced coffees. pedestrian and traffic scene. A second This place also holds acoustic and art 2 bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3 206 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 cafe is located on the first floor amongst performances. www.gloriajeanscoffees.com/vn fashion stores. 343/6 To Hien Thanh, D10 L’amour Ground Floor & First Floor, Saigon Centre, Highlands Coffee 65 Le Loi, D1 DeJa Vu Cafe A stylish bakery and cafe new to Hai With over 50 cafes in Vietnam, Highlands Ba Trung, in the city centre, L'amour Cafe Vuon Kieng It is easy to mistake this cafe for Coffee serves up international and specialises in cakes and desserts and someone’s home as the tranquil traditional Vietnamese blends. Coffee serves Illy Coffee. Eat in or take away. Cafe Vuon Kieng is a quiet, casual cafe atmosphere will have you tension free lovers can also find Highlands premium 24 Hai Ba Trung, D1 near the banks of the Saigon River, in no time. The peaceful setting is ideal quality blends in selected hotels and 3520 8180 supermarkets. boasting relaxing views and refreshing for dates or low-key social events. Make www.lamourbakery.com breezes. This riverside cafe offers jasmine sure to catch the live bands that frequent Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 tea, coffee, ice cream, beer, even cocktails. the cafe. L’Anmien Dining Cafe 10B Ton Duc Thang, D1 314/2 Dien Bien Phu, D10 i-Box Cafe 3823 3279 6276 6966 Linked to the luxurious Mui Ne hotel of iBox cafe is a unique, cafe with aristocratic [email protected] the same name, this internationally-styled Cake Durian Duiro decor. This decorative cafe specializes Elle Cafe in red wine, Asian dishes and spaghetti. sidewalk café is a place to relax and enjoy They also offer an extensive selection of the cool air and watch the busy inner-city A chain of cafes selling durian inspired ice cream creations. traffic from a more refined vantage. crepes and buns with prices under Keeping in line with the sense of style that 135 Hai Ba Trung, D1 76A Le Lai, D1 VND100,000. comes along with the Elle fashion label 3825 6718 38212718 Kiosk in Le Thi Rieng Park, 875 Cach Mang brand, the menu and décor of Elle Cafe Thang 8, D10 sets it apart from the competition. LightBox Cafe 093 333 9365 ID Café Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 45 www.banhsaurieng.com Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Separated from the bustle of nearby Ben This stunningly designed cafe also Centrofarms Coffee 6291 8766 Thanh Market by a tiny alleyway, ID is a doubles as an event and photography This recently opened cafe, located near Fe Cafe retro café opening a door to an earlier studio, so make sure you dress to the airport, sells its own eponymous brand Saigon. impress at this location because you Fe Cafe brings you all kinds of 34D Thu Khoa Huan, D1 never know who might snap your picture. of Centrofarm organic roasted beans scrumptious coffee, along with direct from Dalat with indoor and outdoor They also serve vegetarian cuisine with Vietnamese food and dessert. It offers Imagine Coffee shop prices ranging between VND300,000 - seating that’s perfect for people watching breakfast, lunch, dinner and offers delivery VND500,000 and getting your daily dose of caffeine. as well. The interior is a mix of alternative One of the walls of this rustic cafe is 179 Hoa Lan, Phu Nhuan 19 Ut Tich, Tan Binh and fancy, with wooden furniture, soft literally covered with books. An easy 3517 6668 backrest pillows and decorative paintings. Chi’s Cafe place to get lost for an evening with prices www.lightbox.vn 26 Ly Tu Trong, D1 below VND100, 000.

090 878 3788 58 Ho Bieu Chanh, Phu Nhuan Chi’s Café is a restaurant serving L’Usine www.facebook.com/fecafe.vn 090 956 0105 both Western and Vietnamese food L’Usine is a retail, café and gallery 7:30am - 11pm www.facebook.com/ImagineCafeShop in the backpacker area. The menu space occupying two locations in the 09 0956 0105 is extensive, with everything from center of D1. Its retail space is dedicated Geisha’s Coffee and Tea House [email protected] sandwiches and pizzas to their to Vietnamese designers and more 8am - 10pm popular baked potatoes with filling. established brands from abroad as well Experience a funky, relaxed atmosphere 40/31 Bui Vien, D1 as stocking a wide range of stationary with a refreshing drinks & delicious snack Kebab Cafe 3836 7622 and home ware items. The café in both at Geisha Coffee and Tea House. A retreat locations serves international fare and away from the hustle and bustle of the The healthiest kebab! Featuring an Ciao Cafe a range of pastries and the ever popular streets of Saigon. excellent homemade white sauce, fresh Sweet & Sour Cupcakes. 85 Pasteur, D1 veggies and chicken or pork marinated An icon in downtown HCMC, Ciao cafe 151/1 Dong Khoi, D1 3829 4004 without oil. The French owner also serves features two floors serving simple food, 70B Le Loi, D1 www.geishacafe.com savory and sweet crepes and a home- coffee, smoothies and ice cream – and made puree. www.lusinespace.tumblr.com an opulent lounge bar on the top floor. Gemmi Coffee 538/2/8 Doan Van Bo, D4 9am – 9pm Antique tiles mix with velvet curtains This cafe serves a variety of food like 01648 805 915 and stylish paintings to make this a salads, chicken dish alongside coffees [email protected] Le Tokyo Baum memorable chill out environment. and other beverages. Provides live solo www.kebab-cafe.com 74-76 Nguyen Hue, D1 piano music every night from 8pm. 10am - 10pm Popular Japanese cake cafe with quiet 40 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 seating area, specializing in orange cakes. 193 D3 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Kem My Cosmo Lounge 46 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 Hatvala 3926 0388 This quiet ice cream shop is the perfect Cosmo Lounge is a popular location This tea house, coffee shop and place for families and couples to indulge May Coffee for stylish and trendy locals and expats their sweet tooth. It offers a fresh release A superb, friendly, and inexpensive little alike. Chill out in a bold blue and white restaurant offers selected, quality from the heat of Ho Chi Minh City. café most notable for its perfect view environment with local and European Vietnamese tea and coffee to drink or to 11 Duong 41, D4 of the Cathedral tower bells and close cafe food and a broad selection of coffees buy as leaves and beans. They also have 093730 3030 proximity to the post office. and drinks. a delightful all day casual dining area in www.kemmy.vn 1 Cong Xa Paris, D1 86 Bis Le Thanh Ton, D1 their stylish bistro. 3.30pm - 11pm 3827 7099 3823 5848 44 Nguyen Hue, D1 3824 1534 Kesera www.maycoffee.com 8am - 11pm Cooku’s Nest Minhu Coffee [email protected] A cozy and friendly café/bar serving

Cooku’s nest has a clean, artsy vibe www.hatvala.com coffee, beer, wines, freshly- baked This specialty cafe offers a wood offering drinks and snacks. www.facebook.com/hatvala homemade cakes and delicious furniture interior setting, which resembles 13 Tu Xuong, D3 Western food. the cabins you would expect to see in the 2241 2043 Hi-End Coffee 26/1 Le Thanh Ton, D1 keserakesera.com western North American frontier. Live Crèperie & Café Located near the leafy Tao Dan Park, Hi- bands are a regular feature at the cozy End Coffee is one of a few venues serving Kita Coffee cafe and prices are inexpensive. Inexpensive Western fare targeted mainly up just as much music as caffeine. 149/35 Le Thi Rieng, D1 at locals, delivering some fairly decent 126 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 This three- storey establishment provides 3601 9319 low-cost sandwiches. 3824 1004 patrons with Lavazza coffee along with a 5 Han Thuyen, D1 Open to 10pm unique Mediterranean menu. MTV Cafe te x pats 39-41 Nguyen Hue, D1 Cryptic Acoustic Cafe Gloria Jean's 3914 0683 Providing a relaxing atmosphere after a Cryptic Acoustic Cafe features an Australia’s most popular coffee franchise [email protected] hard day’s work with some of the top hits architecture that blends classic and now has a solid presence in Ho Chi 7.30am - 10pm out today, MTV cafe is the perfect place to modern elements. Featured drinks Minh City with multiple locations in the unwind with that special someone or just include Cryptic frappe (the combination inner city. While the favourite Dong Khoi Kopi Beans a cup of coffee. of coffee and Orion cake, banana address has now been given over to a 65 Vo Van Tan, D3 and fresh cream), Cryptic soda (soda, Sony store, new venues in Vincom A and Kopi Beans Cafe is a favorite among 3930 2597 high school kids. It’s a small takeaway ©2013 A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013 flavored orange peel, lemon and at CMT8 prove this favourite brand with mtvcafe.com.vn

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 49 MZ Coffee pastas, steaks, milkshakes, waffles and indulge in good cafe food over candlelight 11-13 Lam Son Square, D1 A cafe in a colonial villa that was built in more. in a dark, intimate environment hidden 3827 2566 the early 20th century. It boasts a broad 6 Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3 amongst trees and trickling streams. Relax selection of 3521 0673 in an air conditioned room or dine alfresco Dynasty coffee, from fine Vietnamese condensed [email protected] amongst the greenery. The perfect spot to milk coffee to Italian Lavazza expresso, 7:30am - 11pm impress a date with your local knowledge. New World hotel's in-house Chinese cappucinos 100 Tran Huy Lieu St, Phu Nhuan restaurant is certainly a venue of fine and lattes as well as wines and beers. Soho Coffee 2240 5306 contemporary Chinese dining. The chef offers a variety of authentic Cantonese 56-56 A Bui Thi Xuan, D1 The Myth Cafe dishes along with classic dim sum under a 39255258 Two level local cafe chain serving light high lantern/chandelier-lit ceiling, in a broad www.m-zing.com meals, coffee and local chilled drinks. 185 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 Escape the daily grind of Ho Chi Minh City dining room decorated in classic Chinese NYDC 3839 5038 with a trip into the mystical setting of Myth style. VIP guests can dine in one of four Cafe. With live bands and prices under semi-private or thee totally private rooms. 7am - 11pm VND100,000 it's no wonder The Myth New World Hotel A fun, dynamic and cosmopolitan place Starbucks Coffee cafe is one of the best around. 76 Le Lai, D1 for food, desserts, beverages and not 176 Dien Bien Phu, D3 3822 8888 forgetting the company of good friends. Has a large, open ground floor space with 3820 9735 www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Prices range between VND100,000 - ample seating in booths and tables, and a [email protected] VND300,000. smaller space upstairs with views out on Hung Ky Mi Gia Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan, D1 the busy Nga 6 Phu Dong roundabout. Trung Nguyen Cafe 3822 9992 Also has outdoor seating. Expect to pay Hung Ky Mi Gia is a famous and long- www.nydc.com.vn Western prices. One of the most ubiquitous coffee standing restaurant with more than 13 Onset Cafe 76 Le Lai, D1 brands in Vietnam. With a burgeoning years of operation. It serves traditional presence throughout the city, it’s hard Chinese cuisine with authentic dishes

Stella Restaurant & Cafe to go anywhere without tripping over a such as roasted chicken, duck, and pork. This lounge cafe features live bands Trung Nguyen café – serving gourmet 20 Le Anh Xuan, D1 and is a good setting for work events Providing authentic Italian and Vietnamese street coffee. 3822 2673 or business meetings. With bold interior Vietnamese food using fresh imported 26B-C Le Loi, D1 furniture it is a popular respite for Ho Chi and local premium-quality ingredients. Kabin Minh residents. Where else can you find such good The Serenata Cafe 319 Ly Thuong Kiet, D11 coffee/cuisine at such reasonable prices? Kabin is a Cantonese restaurant 6670 7092 119-121 Bui Vien, D1 The Serenata Cafe is a peaceful, relaxing specializing in exotic dishes such as baked [email protected] 3836 9220 oasis in a French Colonial house. This cafe duck tongue, grouper cutlet, and lobster www.stellacaffe.com embraces nature with plants, fishponds, soup. Located in the five star Renaissance Paris Deli and small fountains, and offers music in Riverside Hotel, this restaurant offers a The Blue Cafe the evenings. wide variety of dim sum. A French style cafe serving some of 6D Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 Renaissance Riverside Hotel, the best pastries in Saigon, this cheerful A spacious cafe divided into two different 3930 7436 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 spot is a real slice of Parisian life. Many areas with a lush, outdoor garden seating 3822 0033 European drinks and dishes. lounge and an air conditioned in-door Vecchio Cafe Ground Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 lounge. The Blue Cafe has live music with The interior features Italian ornate décor, Li Bai Chinese Restaurant 3821 6127 drinks under VND100,000. dim lighting and antique furniture, Located in the Sheraton Hotel, Li Bai 701-703 Phan Van Tri, Go Vap enhanced by Italian music. Offerings offers a selection of over 50 dim sum Passio Coffee to Go 3588 6824 include pasta, soup, chicken dishes, dishes as well as traditional Chinese and salad, beef dishes, gelato and beverages Cantonese specialties. Diners will enjoy Passio Coffee offers its guests fine The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf such as smoothies, fresh fruit juices the relaxed, upscale ambiance provided Italian style coffee made from the finest and tea. by the wood paneling and oriental art. ingredients. Since Passio’s inception in Offering over 22 varieties of coffee and 39/3 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Level 2, 88 Dong Khoi, D1 2006, this enthusiastic team of coffee 20 kinds of tea, The Coffee Bean & Tea 3827 2828 brewers has become recognized by Leaf has been serving the best coffees Windows www.libaisaigon.com international coffee drinkers. and teas from around the world for more 112 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 than 40 years in its cozy, handcrafted oak A highly fashionable cafe near the Ming Court paneled stores. cathedral. For many years, this eye- Phuong Cac Cafe www.coffeebean.com.vn catching venue has remained a place to Since the Nikko Hotel graced the Saigon 7am - 11pm see and be seen, often frequented by skyline, the venue has managed to set the With indoor and outdoor lounge areas this 39 Le Duan, D1 the famous, the well-to-do, and the ne’er standard for classy, five-star dining with its cafe is a relaxing respite from the grind Ground Floor, Crescent Mall do well. bold grey modern decor and Japanese-style of Ho Chi Minh City. With live bands and Ton Dat Tien, D7 12 Alexandre De Rhodes, D1 efficiency. Ming Court, on the hotel's third drinks under VND100,000 it makes for 157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 38238408 floor, is a large Chinese restaurant with all the perfect getaway. 39 Le Duan, D1 the expected graces of the Orient belonging Bis 213 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 12-14 Thai Van Lung, D1 Yogen Fruz to the exotic fantasy of the dynastic era. 3932 7484 94 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Serves frozen yogurt with 20 different 3rd floor, Nikko Saigon Hotel 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 kinds of fruits for you to choose from. 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 Phúc Minh Coffee 235 Dong Khoi, D1 This place also provides an environment 3925 7777 1-5 Le Duan, D1 where customers can relax and be Phuc Minh coffee is an airy, clean 60-62 Cach Mang Thang 8, D3 social. Ocean Palace environment providing a varied menu and 1-3 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 B3-15B Basement Vincom Center B, 72 Le A place for those who love Chinese food. delicious coffee. The staff is attentive and Thanh Ton, D1 The large dining room on the ground floor quick with a friendly approach. Prices start The Library www.yogenfruz.com.vn can accommodate up to 280 diners. Up around VN 25,000 for this simple cafe. The Library provides a welcoming on the first floor are six private rooms and 51 Hung Phuoc 4, D7 atmosphere for those in search of Zoom Cafe Oi’s Pick a big ballroom that can host 350 guests. tranquility, comfort and great drinks in the 2 Le Duan Street, D1 Princess and the Pea heart of Saigon This distinctive Vespa-themed Café has 3911 8822 Ground floor – InterContinental Asiana been a popular fixture in D1 for ten years. A fairytale-themed venue for the Saigon Today, the café serves as the place for Seven Wonders (Bay Ky Quan) dreamers of Ho Chi Minh City, hidden Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan Vespa enthusiasts and tour veterans It’s worth traipsing out to D6 for this one. Not away in a tiny alleyway off Pasteur. 3520 9099 to swap stories over ice-cold beers and only are the Dim Sum, Peking Duck, and Discover it if you can. www.intercontinental.com/saigon what many claim is the best selection pan-China home-style cuisine exemplary, 63/18 Pasteur, D1 of mouth-watering burgers, paninis, and but the venue design, with its architectural The Living Room baguette sandwiches in town. flourishes from the seven wonders of the Regina Coffee 169A Bui Vien, D1 world (including the Great Wall, the Taj A popular hangout for hip, young The Living Room has two floors providing 3920 3897 Mahal, and the pyramids) makes for a highly Vietnamese around Nguyen Du, serving a laid-back atmosphere for meet-ups distinctive dining experience. western coffee in a vintage, artsy or after-work relaxation over drinks and 12 Duong 26, D6 environment. Western and Vietnamese food. chinese 3755 1577 te x pats 84 Nguyen Du, D1 40-42 Dong Du, D1 www.7kyquan.com 3822 0377 Dragon Court Retrobite Diner Cafe Shang Palace Restaurant Inspired by the concept of 1960s Tram Coffee Oi’s Pick Dragon Court is a large restaurant Americana, bi-level Retrobite Diner Cafe opposite the Opera House in Saigon’s The slightly off-centre, high-class Norfolk features an interior that includes booths, A unique romantic cafe experience bustling District 1. Enjoy Chinese dishes Mansion Hotel on Ly Tu Trong is home retro egg chairs, jukebox and classic radio hidden well off the beaten track, but close from many regions with dishes like glass to one of Saigon's most well-respected players. The menu is mostly American to District 1 in neighbouring Phu Nhuan noodles, hot pot, and a large dim sum Chinese restaurants outside of Chinatown. Located on the 1st floor, Shang's dark food with sandwiches, hamburgers, District. Sip a coffee, juice or beer or collection. A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 50 intricate wooden tables and chairs with the fare is significantly damaging enough the place is like a Stargate direct to France. at a reasonable price. Large space white linen and deep red carpeting make to make this a rare treat for those not in 31D Thai Van Lung, D1 for private parties,outdoor catering for an atmosphere of moody opulence; the restaurant's fabulously wealthy target 3825 8465 and free home delivery also available. there is seating for over 300 guests, and market. Special set lunch veg/non-veg from private rooms are available. 48 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Le Paris VND90,000 upwards.Promotion (free 1st Floor, Norfolk Mansion 2229 8882 Le Paris has an interior that features trip to Cambodia) and discount available 17-19-21, Ly Tu Trong, D1 www.lacuisine.com.vn depictions of Eiffel Tower, Seine River for people booking in groups. 3823 2221 and Notre Dame Cathedral. Food 17/10 Le Thanh Ton, D1 La Creperie offerings include French, seafood, 3823 1372 Shi-Fu Dim sum La Creperie is the first authentic Brittany steaks and vegetarian dishes. www.ashokavietnam.com French restaurant that serves savory 45 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Shifu Dim Sum House is a restaurant galettes, sweet crepes with tasty seafood www.facebook.com/leparisrestaurant Baba’s Kitchen Oi’s Pick specializing in dim sum, with modern and Chinese décor and over 68 dim sum dishes. the best apple cider in Saigon. Le Steak de Saigon Baba’s Kitchen, also known as the best 139A Nguyen Trai, D1 17/7 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Drawing inspiration from French Indian restaurant on Bui Vien, is familiar 3925 1111 3824 7070 steakhouses, Le Steak de Saigon serves among expats and locals alike, rating www.dimsumhouse.vn [email protected] imported and local meats, with beef 4.5 out of five stars on Trip Advisor. Their Yu Chu Mon-Sun 11am-11pm fondue and table-side beef tartare as vindaloo is a must try. the most recommended. Aside from 164 Bui Vien, D1 Yu chu is renowned for the quality and La Fourchette table service, the restaurant offers take- 3838 6661 presentation of its authentic Cantonese out and delivery as well. www.babaskitchen.in and Peking cuisines along with its elegant Small and cozy, La Fourchette is a favorite 15 Dong Du, D1 11am - 11pm décor. Watching the chefs prepare amongst the French expat community. 3822 4593 signature dishes such as hand-pulled The vintage posters and wood paneling www.lesteakdesaigon.com Bollywood noodle, dim sum and Peking duck right in add to the charm of this French eatery Complete North & South Indian Cuisine. the kitchen is a prominent dining feature located downtown, a stone’s throw from L’Olivier Special Chaat & Tandoori Dishes. Parties, here. the Saigon River. Events & catering service available, Daily First floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon 9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 L’Olivier is a restaurant serving authentic Lunch tiffin and Set menus. Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan 3829 8143 Mediterranean cuisines, located on the Free Delivery(All Phu my Hung) 3520 9099 www.lafourchette.com.vn www.intercontinental.com/saigon 2nd floor of the Hotel Sofitel. 22131481 - 22450096 Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, D1 0938069433 La Nicoise 3824 1555 Hotline: 0906357442(English) french www.sofitel.com [email protected] A small, friendly French bistro with about facebook: bollywoodvietnamindiancuisine a dozen tables, La Nicoise serves up Le Rendez-Vous de Saigon Oi’s Pick (for complete menu) Annamite typical French dishes under the watchful Annamite specializes in French cuisine A new wine bistro that offers a warm and eye of its French-Vietnamese owners. friendly atmosphere. Unwind either in their Bombay Indian Restaurant within a modern setting. 56 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 21 Tu Xuong, D3 stylish downstairs bar, or lounge on cozy Located in D1 near the Ben Thanh Market 3821 3056 6277 8332 leather seating in the upstairs section with area, serving Indian & Halal cuisine. The www.annamite-restaurant.com L'essentiel a balcony overlooking a courtyard in an ambiance is relaxed thanks to Bombay’s alley. The venue offers a tasty selection of easy-going, family kitchen vibe.

Au Manoir de Khai wines from France to South Africa, and a 57-59 Ham Nghi, D1 A recent arrival to the growing ranks of delectable menu of French cuisine. 9am - 10.30pm authentic French dining experiences in Au Manoir de Khai is an authentic, first 9A Ngo Van Nam, D1 HCMC, L'essentiel offers a quiet intimate class French restaurant. Guests can enjoy www.lerendezvousdesaigon.com Ganesh dining experience downstairs with space traditional French cuisine in this classic 6291 0396 for private functions and alfresco dining 100 year old villa. Their menu is extensive Ganesh serves authentic northern Indian on an upper floor. The menu changes and features dishes like Kobe beef, foie The Refinery Oi’s Pick tandooris & rotis along with the hottest weekly, the food is fresh and the wine list gras, red grouper, and truffle mushrooms. curries, dovas, and vada from the southern carefully collated. 251 Dien Bien Phu, D3 This Parisian bistro hidden away in its region. 98 Ho Tung Mau, D1 3930 3394 enclave on Hai Ba Trung is an exceptional 15B4 Le Thanh Ton, D1 0948 415 646 venue, making for an elegant reparation 8223 0173 Augustin Le Bordeaux of the sins of the past. It was here in www.ganeshindianrestaurant.com Augustin is a romantic and charming French Colonial days that opium was

French restaurant located just steps away manufactured, bringing ruin to the people Indus Indian Set in a French colonial-style mansion, Le from the Rex Hotel. Serves lunches and Bordeaux serves southwestern French of Asia; it is here that a far softer side dinners and offers 10 percent discount on of the French culture now exercises Indus Indian is a relatively new Indian a la carte menu items. cuisine in a beautiful setting. Known for its foie gras and large selection of wines, Le its influence over present-day Saigon, restaurant in Saigon providing all the 10D Nguyen Thiep, D1 serving modern European cuisine in its classic Indian favorites. Operated by www.augustinrestaurant.com Bordeaux is worth the trip to Binh Thanh district. tastefully decorated dining area and airy a dedicated husband/wife duo, this 72 D2 Street, Binh Thanh outdoor patio. restaurant specializes in Halal food. Bon Appetit 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 2G Thi Sach, D1 3899 9831 restaurant-lebordeaux.com.vn 3825 7667 3521 0324 A small French-Vietnamese fusion bistro www.therefinerysaigon.com on Pham Ngoc Thach with a simplistic 11.30am - 1.30pm; 6.30am - 9.30pm Mumtaz charm enhanced by a fine selection of Le Bouchon De Saigon Ty Coz Oi’s Pick old-style French music. With bona-fide Indian owners and chefs, 78 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 An unpretentious venue focused only on authenticity at Mumtaz is guaranteed. 090 789 8345 Red and white checked tablecloths and closely set tables make Le bouchon serving great cuisine. Ty Coz provides a While the service and setting is relatively Bonjour Restaurant de Saigon the place to go for a casual, fine balcony view of the cathedral, intimate basic, the food is amongst the best of its atmosphere, and affordable prices. type in the city in terms of taste alone. The classic French bistro experience under 178/4 Pasteur, D1 brand has a second branch in Da Nang Bonjour serves up international dishes with a the eye of iron chef Vietnam winner 3822 2457 city if you're ever on holiday and missing French flair. The large menu of main courses David Thai. www.tycozsaigon.com your curries. feature roast duck, salmon, lamb and steak 40 Thai Van Lung, D1 with specialties being ostrich and venison. www.lebouchondesaigon.com 226 Bui Vien, D1 Vatel Saigon Restaurant 3837 1767 150/26 Nguyen Trai, D1 3926 0699 Le Chateau de Saigon Situated in a small but romantic French This is a fine, well-managed, and even The Punjabi Cordon Blue villa, Le Chateau De Saigon Restaurant luxurious dining venue serving authentic is designed to accommodate any kind French cuisine in a Franco-Viet design Authentic North Indian cuisine prepared A unique French venue decorated with blue of event. Whether it is dinner with family space. There's red carpet along the in a home-made tandoori oven makes and green shades serving high-quality French and friends, or a passionate evening with entrance way, gallery-standard art on Punjabi a popular spot for budget cuisine on the outskirts of the inner city. your loved one, Le Chateau De Saigon will the walls, and an overall atmosphere of conscious eaters who crave Indian 38 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 provide a sophisticated and memorable refinement and good service. standbys like spinach naan and chicken 3822 5216 dining experience. 120 bis Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 tandoori. www.cordonblue.vn 45A Le Quy Don, D3 08 5404 2220 40/3 Bui Vien, D1 te x pats www.lechateaudesaigon.com vatelsaigon.com 3508 3777 La Cuisine Le Jardin italian This ultra-fine little bistro is an exercise in Le Jardin is a gorgeous enclosed garden indian minimalism with its twenty seats and bare, space that allows eaters to follow the chic-rustic interior of wooden furnishings example of the French colonists a century Ashoka 1960 Presidential Club and black & white photographs on ago and pretend they're actually in Paris. Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular 1960 Presidential Club is a member- whitewashed walls. Its warm lighting Whether dining outside under the shaded and enduring Indian restaurants with only restaurant with an interior design and clean atmosphere belies a certain terrace or within the old, warmly-lit villa, a reputation for good food with a wide inspired by Saigon in the 60s. You will

©2013 A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013 sophistication, however, and the price of the cuisine, decor, and general mood of range of North Indian culinary dishes experience more traditional style of

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 51 Italian cuisine with an extensive menu Good Morning Vietnam ingredients. www.blanchystreet.com led by chef Franco Buressi. 125 Ho Tung Mau, D1 * Reviewed by Oi in April 2013 Floor 22 Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, D1 Italian restaurant with a unique menu www.sarpinos.vn www.club1960.vn Cam On Restaurant including traditional Italian dishes. The Scoozi Basilico Restaurant restaurant is conveniently located in a An Italina restaurant that offers pizza, Cam On specializes in Japanese health beautiful old house in the heart of Saigon, pasta, salad, special desserts and a wide Trattoria-style Italian eatery Basilico well integrated in the local architecture. food, with a dedication to helping men specializes in homespun recipes. 197 De Tham, D1 variety of drinks. Provide dine-in , take and women maintain their beauty and Contemporary décor, casual ambience, 3837 1894 away and home delivery services. health by providing quality cuisine with and casual yet attentive Bistro-style www.thegoodmorningvietnam.com 6 Thai Van Lung, D1 natural ingredients. service makes it a relaxing dinner venue. 30 Thai Van Lung, D1 Ground floor, on the Corner of Nguyen Du & La Hostaria japanese 3823 3955 Le Van Huu, D1 www.cam-on.asia 3520 9099 Designed with an intimate atmosphere 6.30am - 10.30pm invoking something like an Italian town, Dragon Hotpot Capricciosa this venue focuses on traditional ethnic Italian cuisine (rather than the ubiquitous Dragon Hotpot blends fine taste with the You'll find the standards here – pizza, pizza and pasta), creations of the skillful healthy ingredients of Japanese cuisine. pasta, soups, salads, with a few special executive chef – straight out of Venice. Drinks include Japanese favorites along dishes such as calamari and onion in The place lights up on romantic Thursday with fine international wines. squid ink sauce. They're all prepared evenings with candlelight and light music. 122-124 Ho Tung Mau, D1 according to strict Japanese standards, 17B Le Thanh Ton, D1 3825 8842 and the result is actually really good. 3823 1080 Achaya Cafe Booth B3-03A, Level B3 www.lahostaria.com Dragon Noodle Vincom Tower, 70 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Achaya 3993 9786 Lucca Oi’s Pick www.capricciosa.com.vn Cafe have two floors providing a nice A rather small but pretty restaurant with atmosphere for meeting, relaxation warm tones and a nice series of murals Casa Italia A Brooklyn-style Italian eatery upstairs or party. The menu is extensive depicting old Saigon, Dragon Noodle with an adjoining bar. Downstairs is a with drinks and Western, Japanese, focuses on the Japanese staple – ramen relaxing cafe offering generous breakfasts, Italian owned & run, Casa Italia’s menu Vietnamese food from sandwiches, noodle soups – although their version simple cafe fare for lunch and some of the ranges from home-style cooking that spaghetties, pizzas, steak and special is a little less spicy than is traditionally includes steaks, seafood, a large variety best espresso coffee you’ll find in the city. Japanese sweet desserts. served, increasing perhaps the of homemade pastas, jumbo salads, 88 Ho Tung Mau, D1 90 Le Loi, D1 international appeal of the dish. There are appetizers and the best pizzas. 3915 3692 093 897 2050 a total of four soup bases to accompany 86 Le Loi, D1 8am - 11pm 11am - 10:30pm 3824 4286 the noodles. www.casaitalia.com.vn Margherita 29 Dong Du, D1 Aka Taiyo 3521 0008 Well-reviewed overseas, Margherita is www.ramen.vn a familiar place to tourists trawling the Aka Taiyo serves traditional and exotic nooks of Ho Chi Minh City. This is partly Japanese cuisine with an extensive menu Dragon Steak a result of its agreeable price, sumptuous featuring more than 200 dishes. Also Western-style pizzas, English-speaking stocks a surprisingly comprehensive A striking Japanese restaurant tucked staff, and more than average customer range of Japanese alcoholic beverages. away off Saigon's central street, Dragon service. 74B Hai Ba Trung, D1 steak specialises in thick wagayu cuts 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, D1 3824 4295 and tenderloin that could well have 3837 0760 www.akataiyo.com been cut off a beast the size of a dragon. Ciao Bella Oi’s Pick They're so enormous that the restaurant Opera Restaurant Ajisen Ramen once ran a cheeky competition – guests Hearty home- who finished one within half an hour style Italian food A contemporary, casual trattoria-style One of the more authentic Japanese dined free. served with flair and excellent service. Italian restaurant overlooking the Opera venues in the area with ingredients 138 Ton That Dam, D1 An extensive menu is complemented imported from Japan, this restaurant is with daily specials. Arriving guests are House, Opera is located within Park Hyatt 3821 0288 best-known for its tasty “white” soups. The greeted with a free glass of Prosecco. Saigon specializing in authentic pizza www.steak.vn Diners sit in a cozy setting upstairs baked in a wood-fired oven, pasta and restaurant serves at least 250 traditional or on the ground floor for people homemade Italian dishes. dishes. Ebisu watching. Big groups should book in 1st floor Park Hyatt Hotel, 120 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 3822 0522 advance. 2 Lam Son Square, D1 Ebisu serves neither sushi nor sashimi – 11 Dong Du, D1 3824 1234 3822 3329 Aki Japanese Restaurant instead, the menu focuses on a range of www.saigon.park.hyatt.com wholesome charcoal-grilled meals and [email protected] www. saigonrestaurant on thick, white Japanese udon noodles – A small Japanese restaurant with a cozy group.com/ciao Pizza 4P’s Oi’s Pick made from imported udon powder from and comfortable atmosphere, Aki serves A little treasure hidden away at the top Australia – and presenting an overall over 100 authentic Japanese dishes. of an out-of-the-way alley off Le Thanh rustic cuisine with a variety of good sakes. Chef Mamma’s 15/9 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Ton, this Japanese pizzeria is a major hit 35bis Mac Dinh Chi, D1 Chef Mamma’s is located at Saigon’s 3827 9083 Superbowl Center offering a variety of with those in the know. Highly attractive 3822 6971 Italian and Asian food. The restaurant premises and some extraordinary [email protected] toppings catering to all tastes make this Baby Spoon opens from early in the morning until ebisu-vn.asia late at night serving breakfast, lunch an unmissable pizza experience. and dinner. 8/15 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Famous for its extensive omurice Fuji Restaurant A43 Truong Son, Tan Binh 012 0789 4444 menu (fried rice wrapped inside an

www.pizza4ps.com egg omelette), Baby Spoon offers contemporary Japanese-Western fusion The cuisine is exceptional – fresh seafood Pomodoro cuisine. Baby Spoon omurice (green bell and vegetables flown in direct from Japan and Dalat. A preferred venue for those peppers, bacon, tomato sauce omurice) staying at the hotel, and worth trying if In this family-style, simply-decorated is the house specialty. trattoria restaurant with an arched ceiling 47 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 you're living local. and an all-brick interior, a fine Italian Ground Floor, Nikko Hotel Saigon menu pleases diners with 12 different Blanchy Street Oi’s Pick 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D1 pizzas along with pasta dishes, parma 3830 8123 ham with a spicy tomato chutney, and Once hidden upstairs at the Blanchy's Da Vinci’s a highly-recommended French onion Tash bar, Blanchy Street now has its own Hanayuki Da Vinci’s is an soup. Ideal option for a simple, reliable, location in the courtyard of eateries on Italian-American and thoroughly pleasant night out with no Hai Ba Trung, offering authentic Japanese A Japanese-style restaurant on Ton style pizzeria delivery complications. food mixed with fusion cuisine and the Duc Thang with a sushi bar on the te x pats offering pizzas, lasagna, spaghetti, 79 Hai Ba Trung, D1 occasional additional Southeast Asian ground floor and a fine mezzanine calzones, salads and desserts. 3823 8998 dish. Run by an ex Nobu (London) chef level, Hanayuki serves more than 200 Their full menu is online at www. www.pomodoro-vietnam.com with his own signature dishes, it has wide exquisite Japanese dishes with more davincisvietnam.com. Free delivery to appeal. Food is designed to be shared than 30 kinds of sushi and sashimi. Districts 1, 3, 4, 5, 7 and Phu My Hung. Sarpino’s Pizzeria and is backed by an extensive list of Private, traditional Japanese VIP rooms Open 11am - 10pm. sakes and wines. are available on the top level. Call 083 943 4982 or Sarpino’s Pizzeria provides authentic 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, D1 21C Ton Duc Thang, D1 SMS your order to 093 328 4624

Italian pizzas made from gourmet 3823 8793 3824 2754 A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 52 Ichiban Sushi and many of these profess it as their contain 15 VIP rooms decorated in a a private, open feel. Its broad menu Ichiban Sushi Vietnam serves fine sushi favourite hangout in Saigon. Cuisine is traditional Japanese style with tatami includes both cooked and raw fish in and signature drinks/cocktails in a lounge Japanese-Vietnamese fusion. matting. addition to traditional hot pot with fish eggs, rice and vegetables. setting. 44 Ly Tu Trong, D1 28 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 3911 0147 8 Cao Ba Quat, D1 204 Le Lai, D1 3824 5994 www.sushiworld.com.vn 3829 5588 www.ichibansushi.vn Mus Mus 9am - 10pm Indaba Restaurant Tokyo Deli Customers choose a total of twelve Mi Han Quoc Indaba Cafe & Restaurant offers Japanese, Tokyo Deli’s menu consists of a wide Western and Vietnamese cuisine. It ingredients from the selection on offer, which are then added to a bowl of boiling range of distinctive and delicious meals, This franchise has gained popularity boasts homemade ingredients such as in Ho Chi Minh City for having broth on the tabletop. Flavours are prepared by specialists to create pure udon noodles, soy sauce for sushi and successfully adapted the spiciness essentially Japanese seafood. Japanese flavor. The menu is always matcha ice cream. of Korean cuisine to the local 117 Vo Van Tan, D3 being changed and improved. 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 240 Le Thanh Ton, D1 Vietnamese palate, serving perfectly 3930 9185 www.facebook.com/indabacafe 5404 2244 balanced noodle dishes. www.musmus.net tokyodeli.com.vn 92 Ham Nghi, D1 Inaho Restaurant Osaka Ramen 3914 1565 Uraetei BBQ Restaurant www.mihanquocvn.com

This unique venue specializes in 8am - 11pm Traditional Japanese noodle restaurant traditional sushi & sashimi as well as hot Uraetai serves yakiniku grill, a variant offering traditional Ramen dishes as well pot dishes. Couples can retreat to the of the popular Korean dish bulgogi. Mr. BBQ – Korean Chicken & Hof as Japanese/Vietnamese fusion cuisine. upstairs area; it’s far more private than the The restaurant itself is attractively 67 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 This unusual Korean import famous for downstairs bar. done, with a nod to feng shui in its 10am - 10pm extraordinarily spicy chicken is an odd 4 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 selective placement of ponds and rocky phenomenon on the HCMC culinary 3829 0326 pathways outside. Robata Dining An 6673 9373 landscape, serving up a version of Kabuto Tokyo The restaurant has a downstairs bar and KFC that's actually painful. Lovers of a second floor with private rooms that Vicki’s Teppanyaki & BBQ spicy food rejoice. The restaurant itself have sunken tables, sliding fusuma doors is clean and modern in design, and One of the more exuberant Japanese and tabletop barbecues. Popular with It provides a fusion of Asian cuisines there are another 50 Korean dishes venues in this city, Kabuto Tokyo on Mac the Japanese expats, the menu serves with dishes from Japan, Singapore, and on offer beyond the signature dish, Thi Buoi specialises in both traditional and up healthy appetizers, rolls, sashimi Vietnam. Their menu is interesting and including some tasty bibimbap mixed fusion fresh Japanese seafood cuisine. rice dishes. and An specialty dishes like deep fried diverse, with many delectable seafood It's a vibrant venue with its manga murals, chicken with garlic salt sauce An style options. 20 Ho Huan Nghiep, D1 carp lanterns, giant samurai warrior, and 3823 9000 (VND100,000). 42 Le Anh Xuan, D1 large aquarium – and in the evening it 15C Le Thanh Ton, D1 3823 3232 Seoul House becomes a respectable upmarket bar. For www.robata-an.com vickis.com.vn a quirky beverage there, try a sake served in a bamboo tube. Sakura Vietnamese-Japanese Wainosuke Seoul House is a well-known two-story Korean restaurant with a simple, cozy 45 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Restaurant Wainosuke is a Japanese and Italian atmosphere. Its menu contains Korean 3822 2351 style restaurant. It serves food such as favorites like Banchan, hotpots, grilled kabuto.com.vn pastas, salads and steaks to name a few Cozy, friendly and modern Japanese meat, clay pot mixed rice, and kim chi and wine from traditional Japanese to restaurant near all of the attractions in the tofu soup. K Cafe premium Italian wine. city center. 33 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 37 Ho Tung Mau, D1 99 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 3829 4297 K Cafe Sushi is a large Japanese 6291 1036 3821 4016 restaurant; an ideal place to gather for a sakurasaku.vn www.wainosuke-vn.asia business lunch or for a social dinner. steakhouses 74A4 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Sumo BBQ Yoshino 38245355 Au Lac do Brazil www.yakatabune-saigon.com Sumo BBQ is a rising star amongst The decor is straight out of the set of Shogun, with black wood, tatami mats, Japanese venues in Saigon, offering Serving Saigon for more than 10 years, stencilled cherry blossoms and all Kissho smokeless table BBQ and a unique Au Lac do Brazil is the very first authentic the trappings of Japanese exoticism Experienced chefs prepare teppanyaki, buffet/a la carte concept: get whatever Brazilian Churrascaria in Vietnam, bringing – tastefully done. While Ho Chi Minh sushi, and yakiniku dishes before your you want from the menu, as much as a new dining concept - an “All you can City is certainly not short of fine eyes. In addition, an extensive wine list is you like. Free birthday beer specials on eat” Brazilian style BBQ where meat is Japanese eateries, this one is particularly available as well as an array of fine sake arrangement. brought to your table on skewers by impressive. to complement the exquisite flavors of 300 Le Van Sy, Tan Binh a passador and served to your heart’s 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 premium imported meat and seafood. 3991 4757 content. They have an extensive selection 3823 3333 of fine wines as well. 14 Nguyen Hue, D1 sumobbq.com.vn Ho Chi Minh City www.kissho.wmcvietnam.com 10.30am - 10.30pm Yuki Au Lac do Brazil I Kuru Kuru Shusi Sushi Bar 238 Pasteur, D3 Yukie is a popular Japanese restaurant (08) 3820 7157 A Japanese restaurant that features a located in the backpacker area of Ha Noi rotating conveyor belt for the buffet, There are plenty of dining spaces – large District 1. Offering authentic Japanese Au Lac do Brazil II offering 50 different selections. It also and small rooms, floor-level Japanese cuisine at affordable prices. 6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh offers an a la carte menu. dining on tatami mats, private areas, and 99 Nguyen Thai Hoc, D1 (04) 3845 5224 129 Nguyen Du, D1 the eponymous large sushi bar on the 3824 2754 For Banquet & Catering www.kurukuru.com.vn ground level. Call or email 2 Le Thanh Ton, D1 korean [email protected] Kokekokko Pandora 3823 8042 090 947 8698 www.sushibar-vn.com www.aulacdobrazil.com Kokekokko is a combination of modern Dae Jang Gum www.facebook.com/aulacdobrazil style fast food with the essence of ancient Sushi Dining Aoi All the theatrics of a traditional Korean Japanese cuisine. The restaurant space is experience are part of the service at Dae Corso Steakhouse and Bar designed with high quality materials and Sushi Dining Aoi is one such restaurant, Jang Gum, named after an historic figure, features youthful and modern dynamic where the whole atmosphere of the place but more pertinently after a wildly popular Corso Steakhouse and Bar operates subtleties. With prices under VND100,00 evokes the best of the culture. With its Korean drama focusing on her life – under an open kitchen concept, bringing typical Japanese-style decor – the smooth photos from the series appear throughout Kokekoko is a must see. together an exciting menu of Asian and earthen tones of the wooden furniture and the venue. From waitresses in hanboks 4th Floor Pandora, 1/1 Truong Chinh, Tan Phu European dishes with a focus on grilling. surrounds, the warmth and privacy of the to vast plates of kimchi, this is the most Guests can choose from a wide variety of 3849 6840 VIP rooms – it's possible to believe you're authentic introduction to the cuisine wines and spirits. www.kokekokko.com.vn in a more elegant realm. available outside of District 7. 117 Le Thanh Ton, D1 te x pats La Fenetre Soleil 53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3 1st Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza 3829 5368 3930 0039 39 Le Duan, D1 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn www.sushidiningaoi.com 3825 7974 Glass tables with mosaic tiles and wooden www.daejanggum.vn Dragon Steak floors set off large comfy sofas and high Sushi World ceilings, and diners can look out over the Hana Restaurant Specializing in generous portions of busy Ly Tu Trong though 11 large French A four-storey restaurant in a Japanese- Wagyu cuts; they’re so enormous windows. Its sense of personality attracts style, the first and second floors feature Japanese-Korean fusion in the heart of that the restaurant runs a cheeky artistically-inclined expats to return often, D1. Hana has contemporary decor with ©2013 A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013 an open sushi bar, while the upper levels competition - finish one within half an

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 53 hour, and it’s free. of Saigon’s most authentic and and waitresses dressed in traditional Five Oysters 138 Ton That Dam, D1 memorable Thai restaurants. Located Southern clothing. Serves local cuisine with an emphasis 3821 0288 in the Intercontinental complex, Koh 71/5-6 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 on seafood and beers starting at www.steak.vn Thai serves Asian inspired cocktails 3825 8275 VND10,000. Open daily from 9am until 11am - late in a trendy lounge environment with late. chill music. Banh Xeo 46A 090 30 12123 El Gaucho 1st floor, 39 Le Duan, D1 www.facebook.com/FiveOysters Serves great Argentinean steaks, 3823 4423 Although known for a wide range of hamburgers and more. A great place 091 233 9138 Vietnamese specialties, the local pancake Ganh to entertain clients or friends from www.kohthai.com.vn stuffed with herbs and prawns is its overseas. With outlets in Hanoi and 11am - 10pm Daily tastiest dish. With green suspended lanterns, simple Bangkok too. 46A Dinh Cong Trang, D1 and elegant furnishings, all touched off 5D Nguyen Sieu, D1 Lac Thai 3824 1110 with bamboo baskets of fruit, flowers, 38251879 and reed grass, the atmosphere is just Lac Thai is a large, three-floor restaurant www.elgaucho.asia Banh Xeo An La Ghien as smooth and well-defined as a more offering a wide range of Thai cuisine modern-styled venue. with signature dishes like Pad Thai, Tom New York Steakhouse The fare on offer is traditional Vietnamese, 58/4 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Yum Koong, Chicken Satay and many specialising in the Banh Xeo filled egg 3829 5243 others. While situated in a fairly laid-back area, pancake, a favourite with foreigners with www.nemnuongganh.com 71/2 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 its light crispy shell and fragrant herbs and New York Steakhouse is definitely in the 3823 7506 upmarket category and serves exclusive meats inside the pancake pocket. Gold Fish American imported beef dishes, with a Mai Thai 74 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 whole range of steaks from rib eye, New 3833 0534 Gold Fish offers a slice of authentic www.banhxeoanlaghien.com.vn/en Vietnam with a genuinely rural cuisine. York strip steak, and tenderloin being Mai Thai is a Thai restaurant offering an 73 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 popular options. extensive menu with many Thai favorites. Barbecue Garden 25-27 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 3822 5229 This two-storey restaurant features 3823 7373 www.goldfish.vn traditional decorations and friendly The venue features all open-air dining www.steakhouse.com.vn service. and the atmosphere is distinctly festival- Grillbar - Eatery & Cafe 13 Ton That Thiep, D1 like, relaxing, and casual, becoming A new trendy kitchen and cozy restaurant Pho 99 Oi’s Pick 3821 2920 congenially boisterous in the evenings. with the concept of taking traditional 11am - 2pm, 5pm - 10pm The restaurant specializes in Western- Vietnamese charcoal grilled street food Not a traditional steakhouse per se, but Vietnamese fusion dishes such as beef and serving it in a New York stylie cafe. Pho 99 is known for its excellent filet Malee Thai with cheese, 5-spices beef, squid with 122 Le Thanh Ton, D1 mignon steaks made out of Cu Chi beef. satay sauce, and shrimp kebabs. 38227 901 Also serves great pho. A cute, central Thai venue decked 135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 www.grillbar.com.vn 139 Nguyen Trai, D1 out in royal purple decor, Malee is an 3823 3340 intimate restaurant serving a wide range 3925 2791 www.barbecuegarden.com Highway 4 of consistently tasty dishes, although

without the full effect of Thai cuisine’s Samba Brazilian Steakhouse Beefsteak Nam Son The menu reflects the ambiance of the signature burn. This local steak restaurant specialises in north and wider Vietnam, although dishes 37 Dong Du, D1 This is certainly Saigon's most visible and Vietnamese-style iron-plate meat dishes are carefully selected to meet a more 3829 3029 colourful restaurant serving the popular rather than the American steaks often universal palate. 11am - 2pm; 5pm - 11pm Brazilian buffet style, where enormous popular with expats – but while these 101 Vo Van Tan, D3 skewers of meat are circulated around Spice two varieties have their differences, the 3602 2069 the tables for diners to enjoy as much of local version of the dish has a fresh, light www.highway4.com as they can. character and is served with some good, Spice Thai restaurant has been a favorite 10C Thai Van Lung, D1 delicate Vietnamese sauces. Hoa Tuc among the locals in Saigon since 2003. 3822 0079 188 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 This multicultural eatery offers Thai food www.samba.vnnhahang.com 3930 3917 & seafood in a décor fusing Oriental & Set in what used to be Saigon’s opium www.namsonsteak.com Mediterranean artifacts. refinery, Hoa Tuc serves up contemporary Wild Horse Salon Vietnamese cuisine in a Parisian, art-deco 27C Le Quy Don, D3 Bo Ne Le Hong 3930 7873 atmosphere. 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Cowboy-themed western steakhouse www.spicevn.com with an impressive exterior on trendy Bo Ne Le Hong is a popular Vietnamese 3825 1676 Thai Van Lung, Wild Horse serves high- Thai Express restaurant specializing in beefsteak. It has www.hoatuc.com quality Tex Mex/American cuisine with a rich, diverse menu, and also offer fresh enormous servings. Thai Express is the world’s largest Thai fruit juices. Hoang Yen 8A/1D1 Thai Van Lung, D1 restaurant chain. Enjoy fantastically 489/27/39 Huynh Van Banh, Phu Nhuan A venue for those who are looking for 3825 1901 authentic Thai cuisine at reasonable 3990 5106 high-quality Vietnamese cuisine. Try prices in a relaxed, contemporary some of the country’s delicacies in a atmosphere. Bo Nong modern yet inviting atmosphere. The thai 8A Le Thanh Ton, D1 This performance venue features eatery’s various clay pots are flavorful; 6299 1338 a traditional cultural show with some feature mam, a delicious fermented Coriander www.thaiexpress.com.vn Vietnamese cuisine. Established by fish paste. While the restaurant’s cuisine 10.30am - 10pm Frenchmen Thibault Detraz and Jeremy is light and healthy overall, those A small Thai joint decked out in natural Gremillet, who aim to bring the French with a penchant for green veggies materials with cork walls and sedge- passion for fusing live entertainment should definitely order one of Hoang lined floors serving green shrimp curry, vietnamese with dining. Yen’s assortment of edible ‘flowers’ – the fried noodles in Thai style, or the 143 Nguyen Trai, D1 especially the sautéed hoa thien ly. It is recommended to order a few dishes and squid vermicelli for a taste of the Gulf of 3T Quan Nuong www.bo-nong.com share them all. Thailand. Bun Sai Gon 7-9 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 16 Bui Vien, D1 With hanging oil lamps and wooden statues lining the stairs, this venue 148 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Golden Elephant above the Temple Bar has a touch more This franchise positions itself firmly in Parkson Hung Vuong, Third Floor, Hung atmosphere than most of its kind, but the local market with the slogan 'the bun Vuong Plaza, An Duong Vuong, D5 noodles of the Vietnamese people' – CR1- 12, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 A cozy and relaxing Thai style the otherwise simple décor with bamboo indicating a concerted dedication to the www.hoangyencuisine.com restaurant, serving an extensive tables and chairs are fitting enough. authenticity of its noodle soup staples. collection of Thai specialties including The broad barbecue grill menu features 73 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Khoai Restaurant noodles, curries, rice, stir-fries, soups, classics of its kind. 6276 2609 Specializes in dishes from Nha Trang. and a good range of seafood. Top Floor, 29 Ton That Hiep, D1 3821 1631 www.bunsaigon.com.vn 3A Le Quy Don, D3 34 Hai Ba Trung, D1 www.khoairestaurant.com 3822 8554 An Khue Quan Cha Ca La Vong Lang Viet Jasmine Thai This venue only serves Cha Ca, a Oi’s Pick Serving a well-selected series of dishes traditional Hanoian dish. Cha Ca is a salad Lang Viet combines water puppet from both northern and southern regions made out of pieces of fish and spring theater with Vietnamese northern A quiet, candle-lit affair complete with of Vietnam in an area where international onion stir-fried in a hotpot. cuisine. There are two performances the ethereal tones of traditional music, diners are likely to be in abundance – and 36 Ton That Thiep, D1 in the evening (5pm and 6:16pm) and guests can enjoy variations on dishes therefore well attuned to the foreign 3915 3343 last for 45 minutes, with an option te x pats prepared in the Thai culinary tradition. palate. of a la carte dining, set menu or 85 Quoc Huong, D2 92B Le Lai, D1 Cuc Gach Quan buffet afterwards. During the day, the 35190038 3925 9583 This Vietnamese venue serves traditional, restaurant serves breakfast and lunch, 5pm - 9.30pm Tue-Sun country-style foods, a mixture of street starting at 10am to 2pm. Their sister An Vietnamese Bistro food dishes made with fine ingredients restaurant, Pho Xua, was once visited by Koh Thai together with a selection of more Former President Bill Clinton in 2000. An Restaurant offers exquisite dishes contemporary options. 36 Pham Ngoc Thach, D3 Stunning Thai-chic decor and unique from the North, Central, and South of 10 Dang Tat, D1 3829 9266

Siam cuisine make Koh Thai one Vietnam, served by well-trained waiters 3848 0144 www.langvietxua.com A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 54 Lemongrass cuisine. There's no fuss in the layout Nguyen Hue and Le Loi, where romantic delivery for customers in D1 and D3. here – green walls with black & white memories of Saigon float around. This 63 Truong Dinh, D1 The vibe aims at a harmony between artworks, brown wooden furnishings, and restaurant offers a variety of delicious 6272 7888 modern styling and the Vietnamese lanterns above every table make for a very traditional Vietnamese dishes. www.facebook.com/crawfishking63 traditional arts, and the dining room with pleasant atmosphere – and it's casual 4th floor, 98 Nguyen Hue, D1 7am - 12am its tile floors and wooded wainscoting without being messy, and refined without 6680 0188 effects a comforting natural environment. any trace of pretentiousness. shgarden.com.vn Lion City 4 Nguyen Thiep, D1 68 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh Thanh 3822 0496 6258 1508 Song Ngu This is a Singaporean franchise to [email protected] watch with interest – since its humble beginnings in 2006 with the rather Luong Son www.chi-nghia.com There are eight different rooms capable of more unpleasant name Singapore seating a total of 350-400 guests, each Exotic beer garden style eatery famous for Pho 2000 Frog Porridge, it has risen in strength warmly-lit with dark wooden furnishings. to become the most prominent its barbecue beef. Luong Son also serves Pho 2000’s Ben Thanh Market branch On a small stage, a traditional chamber was famously visited by former US representative of the cuisine in the city, fear factor items such as scorpions, grubs, orchestra with ladies wearing classical Ao President Bill Clinton in 2000. The chain and its growth has continued to be ostrich meat and crickets. dai costumes perform Vietnamese music 31 Ly Tu Trong, D1 serves up variations on pho as well as remarkable. on genuine old instruments. 45 Le Anh Xuan, D1 3825 1330 noodle and rice dishes. 70 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 3823 8371 www.facebook.com/LuongSonQuan 4 Phan Chu Trinh, D1 3832 5017 3822 2788 www.lioncityrestaurant.com Nam Phan 6am - 10pm Temple Club Long Monaco Oi’s Pick Nam Phan is a 200 seat restaurant that Pho 24 is accents Vietnamese cuisine with live Long Monaco operates throughout the Usually regarded as one of central classical music. city under various brand names – this PHO24 is a popular Vietnamese Saigon's most authentically Vietnamese 34 Vo Van Tan, D3 outlet is a standalone restaurant in the noodle restaurant chain with venues, this historic and good-looking features classic Indochinese decor, busy Etown office complex in Tan Binh Nam Phat Restaurant 70 outlets across Vietnam and district. You'll probably only visit if you're broadly interpreted as a blend of the throughout Southeast Asia. working nearby or visiting on official old French colonial style with pan- A Vietnamese restaurant that specializes 71-73 Dong Khoi, D1 business, but you'll find the restaurant in hosting social events such as weddings 3825 7505 Asian graces that appeal more to Asian serves some great Asian business and business conferences. Traditional exoticism than reflect actual Vietnamese lunches. Vietnamese cuisine is the specialty Propaganda Bistro styles. With antique furnishings and Ground Floor, Etown 1 with prices ranging from VND100,000 Offers Vietnamese cuisine such as ceiling fans, the atmosphere is certainly 364 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh - VND300,000. The setting is of an spring rolls and Vietnamese street food pretty. www.longmonaco.com.vn elegant banquet hall. with a Western twist. Serves breakfast, 29-31 Ton That Thiep, D1 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan, D1 lunch and dinner. The restaurant 3829 9244 western/international 3910 6488 features hand-painted wall murals. templeclub.com.vn [email protected] 21 Han Thuyen, D1 3822 9048 Thanh Nien Restaurant Marina Saigon www.facebook.com/Propaganda-Saigon With its attractive home-style layout, pretty Marina Saigon is one of the leading Quan Bui Authentic Vietnamese garden for outdoor dining, and warm, seafood restaurants in Ho Chi Minh Cuisine yellow-toned interior for the buffet, it's a City. This restaurant provides a Leafy green roof garden, upmarket charming venue for tourists and a familiar luxurious environment with French/ restaurant with reasonable prices and a favourite for long-timers. It's intentionally Vietnamese fusion cuisine. wide menu of choices. Open style kitchen decorated like a private home, walls 172 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 advertises its cleanliness. Designer interior decorated with floral artworks, and the 3930 2379 with spot lighted pictures and beautiful garden surrounded by bamboo. cushions give an oriental luxurious 11 Nguyen Van Chiem, D1 Maxim’s Nam An feeling – augmented by dishes served on Parkview 3822 5909 Located within earthenware crockery. www.vnnavi.com/restaurants/thanhnien Large and lavishly decorated, Maxim’s 17a Ngo Van Nam, D1 New World Nam An restaurant serves Vietnamese 3829 1515 Thang Bom Quan Saigon Hotel, cuisine in style. The carved wooden (deliveries: 3602 2241 or 091 400 8835) Parkview is a sophisticated restaurant Serves hot pot and special style BBQ. booths, completed with silk curtains, with a view of the adjacent 23 49 Pho Duc Chinh, D1 are a romantic hideaway for couples or Quan An Ngon September Park. Their buffets feature both Asian and international favorites small groups. Quan An Ngon appeals easily to tourists Tib Restaurant along with local and imported fish, 13-15-17 Dong Khoi, D1 and local people alike in its unique oysters, prawns, shrimps and snails. concept: presenting the diversity of This fine Vietnamese Hue-style restaurant Every Sunday, the brunch buffet Mitau Vietnamese cuisine from different regions looks almost like a temple, and it's considered one of the city's premier offers a fine fare including rotisserie Mitau creates a gathering place for in a village market style. The restaurant is and steak specialties, with an ice bar those who love Hue cuisine. The interior set in a large new building, which from its settings serving imperial cuisine. 187 Hai Ba Trung, D3 serving up sushi and sashimi. includes memorabilia, statues, bric and external yellow appearance is reminiscent New World Saigon Hotel 3829 7242 brac and golf trophies. of an old European villa; but inside its 76 Le Lai Street, D1 www.tibrestaurant.com.vn 52 Hai Ba Trung, D1 space is designed as an ancient Hue 3822 8888 3823 0767 ruong house. [email protected] www.mitauhue.com 138 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D1 Tin Nghia www.saigon.newworldhotels.com 3827 9666 A charming little venue serving vegetarian Nghi Xuan www.quanngon138.com cuisine. Its quaint appearance hides the fact that it was the first international 27 Grill Decorated as a high-class traditional Royal Revolving Restaurant vegetarian restaurant in Ho Chi Minh 27 Grill is an open kitchen run by Danish Vietnamese mansion, Nghi Xuan is City and an important center of the city’s chefs Casper Gustafsen and Camilla perfectly fitting for a venue serving the The Royal Revolving Restaurant is a vegetarian culture. Bailey and is known for its steaks. It finest of Vietnam's classical cuisine – unique restaurant experience. Experience 9 Tran Hung Dao, D1 also offers a spectacular view of the city. the imperial dishes of Hue. Service is stunning views of the city while you spin 3821 2538 Opens from 5:30pm - 11pm. courteous, fast, and quintessentially around in the sky. The restaurant offers Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le Lai, D1 elegant. more than 50 Hong Kong inspired dishes Vietnam House www.chillsaigon.com 5/9 Nguyen Sieu, D1 and a bar that serves coffee and cocktails. 3823 0699 9th Floor, 12D Cach Mang Thang Tam, D1 Vietnam House is a high quality Al Fresco’s nghixuanrestaurant.com 3823 2232 restaurant specializing in both local Nha Hang Ngon Saigon Vegan Vietnamese and international cuisine. Offering a mix of Tex-Mex, Italian, and This restaurant is set in a restored French Australian food along with cold local &

colonial house offering stunning views of imported beers and a wine list featuring Famous restaurant serving easy Saigon Vegan is located in a casual and the street. Australia’s finest whites along with Vietnamese cuisine to foreigners inviting space with high ceilings, dark 93-95 Dong Khoi, D1 affordable South American reds. and tourists with more than 400 wood tables, and lots of natural light. 3829 1623 16 Nguyen Thi Nghia, D1 traditional dishes. Guests can choose from over 100 vegan www.vietnamhousesaigon.com 3926 0036 te x pats 160 Pasteur, D1 dishes, all of which are either soy or www.alfrescosgroup.com 3827 7131 vegetable based. 8.30am - 11pm www.quananngon.com.vn 378/3 Vo Van Tan, D3 (other) asian 8am - 10pm 3834 4473 Au Parc Papaya Restaurant Oi’s Pick SH Garden restaurant Crawfish King Crawfish King serves special menus It's only fitting that this Mediterranean- A petite, clean, and brightly-coloured Established in the 1930s, the Terrace with crawfish, lobster, mantis shrimp, styled restored villa with its original tiles, Vietnamese restaurant with simple décor restaurant is located at the corner of American-style chicken wings, oysters, old window frames, plush cushions, and fruit beer, sea urchin and more. Offers free opium-themed art collection sits in one ©2013 A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013 serving a light, healthy, northern-style two of the oldest boulevards of Saigon,

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 55 of the most gorgeous streets of central 3827 0931 Pacharan - Tapas & Bodega Wainosuke Saigon. Au Parc is an unforgettable alfrescosgroup.com Wainosuke is a Japanese and Italian venue with a décor that manages to The city’s best-known Spanish restaurant style restaurant. It serves food and wine simultaneously capture the grace of the with a sports bar on the ground floor, from traditional Japanese to premium old Colonial architecture and the mood two floors of dining space, and an open Italian wine. of west-Asian exoticism that transfixed rooftop deck for cocktails and live music. 37 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Europe in the Romantic period. Serving tapas, paella, and an extensive www.wainosuke-vn.asia 23 Han Thuyen, D1 Iberian wine list. 3829 2772 97 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Warda 090 724 2757 Bahdja [email protected] Warda is a Middle-Eastern style bar and 10am - late restaurant headed by a renowned Syrian Algerian restaurant serving north African chef. Guests can enjoy authentic middle- delights such as couscous, tajines and Pasha eastern cuisine indoors and outdoors desserts. Unique Mechoui set dinner is while enjoying an almond cigar or shisha. a popular choice and perfect for groups Serving Turkish and Mediterranean 71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 (available with prior notice). cuisine, the kitchen is headed by Chef 87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Ismet with over 30 years of experience in 093 787 2010 (French, Arabic, English, similar restaurants. Finnish) Khoi Thom 25 Dong Du, D1 0122 763 1261 (English, Russian, Vietnamese) 6291 3677 Khoi Thom - "fragrant smoke" in www.pasha.com.vn Ben Style Oi’s Pick English - is a unique venue, set in Every sandwich comes wrapped with a a bright, colourful al fresco decor Saffron label that displays its calories, protein, fat inspired by renowned architect The first thing that will strike you when and carbohydrates content. A 544-calorie Ricardo Legoretta. A long way from you enter Saffron is the terracotta pots. Cheesy tofu meatballs sandwich costs Mexico, Chef Alejandro Torres's Located 50 meters from Ciao Bella, a VND80,000 while a 281-calorie Chicken menu blends "Cocina popular Italian restaurant on Dung Du, salad sets you back VND50,000.The Potosina" and timeless this restaurant offers Mediterranean chicken jumbo sandwich comes with Mexican classics. food, some with a distinct Asian a massive 638 calories, 59 grams of 29 Ngo Thoi Nhiem, D3 influence added for further White Forest protein and 62 grams of carbohydrates, www.khoithom.com uniqueness. Guests are welcomed with Set in a modern but only 16 grams of fat. Ben also offers complimentary Prosecco, fresh baked décor, the bread served with garlic, olive tapenade meal plans for those who want to get fit La Fenetre Soleil restaurant serves and hummus. and bulk up. La Fenetre Soleil, literally means authentic Italian and French cuisine 51 Hai Ba TruNg, D1 302 Co Bac, D1 ‘window to the sun’, showcases a fusion accompanied by a good selection of 382 48358 090 691 2730 of Old World fittings such as exposed European wines and cocktails. Happy Hour cocktails from 2pm – 7:30pm bricks, antique furniture and chandeliers Skewers where it’s buy one get one free. Order Beirut with New World elements such as fur take-away online at vietnammm.com, Offers Lebanese and Mediterranean cushions and mosaic tiled and glass An open-air kitchen at the front of the foodpanda.vn, and eat.vn food with belly dancers every night from tables. Serves a range of cocktails, restaurant and a small cigar lounge 14 Bis Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 8:30pm to 10pm and Latino dancers imported beer, coffee and smoothies upstairs set off the atmosphere and mark 0122 428 5237 from 10pm to midnight. together with a Japanese-Vietnamese this venue as one with a unique presence www.whiteforest.com.vn 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, D1 fusion menu. in Saigon. The purely Mediterranean www.beirut.com.vn 4 Ly Tu Trong, D1 cuisine is appropriately authentic. Xu Restaurant Lounge Black Cat Restaurant La Habana 9A Thai Van Lung, D1 38224798 The venue is well-known for its pork www.skewers-restaurant.com Originally envisioned as a fast food Offering authentic Spanish cuisine and wantons, bun cha, seared beef crostinis, Vietnamese sandwich place, Black Cat a wide choice of tapas, as well as Cuban Subway bo luc lac diced beef and 'Xu-style' chicken rice. Xu is an elegant venue that Saigon now serves international food with cocktails, La Habana is a den of Cuban- works as a restaurant or a high-class bar a focus on burgers, most famously its “Big Spanish inspired architecture located on Subway is now in Vietnam, offering for the upper echelons. Cheese” featuring 500g of beef. inner-city Cao Ba Quat. its internationally-renowned range of 71-75 Hai Ba Trung, D1 13 Phan Van Dat, D1 6 Cao Ba Quat, D1 subs sandwiches and cookies. World 3824 8468 3829 2955 3829 5180 travelers can expect the same high www.xusaigon.com www.blackcatsaigon.com www.lahabana-saigon.com quality of ingredients regardless of what nation they are visiting. ZanZBar Burger Oi Ly Club 121 Ho Tung Mau, D1 Burger Oi offers fast delivery at affordable 3914 4118 ZanZBar boasts an eclectic range prices. Try their burgers, filet of fish, BBQ Often used as a venue for gatherings, of international cuisine, great wines, pulled pork, fresh cut curly fries and networking meetings, and events where an The Burrito Revolution handcrafted espresso coffees, happy desserts. See their full menu online at air of wealth and sophistication is useful, Ly A food cart serving Mexican food such as hour specials and more. Open for www.burgeroi.com Club is a sure bet for making an impression tacos, burritos, tortillas and more. breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days Call 083 826 5426 or on a date or business lunch. Built into a 124 Bui Vien, D1 a week from 7am until late. SMS your order to 093 836 3030 traditional French villa with wide elliptical 090 271 4882 19-21 Dong Khoi, D1 arches, the atmosphere of naked opulence Chuck’s persists throughout the property. The Burger Corner Zest Bistro & Cafe Chuck’s offers American comfort food 143 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 A casual restaurant featuring an like pancakes, omelets, burritos, fries, 3930 5588 Tasty, fresh homemade burgers with a American, French and fusion menu. tacos, burgers and hotdogs. www.lyclub.vn range of ingredients aimed at satiating Located across from the waterfront, just 27 Tran Nhat Duat, D1 both foreign and local palates. Menu minutes away from the Bach Dang pier, Margherita includes local ‘rice burgers’ and prices are Zest offers diners one of the nicest views Crab Pot well below those of international chains. in the city. Crab Pot is a beer and seafood For some, Margherita doubles as an 43 Nguyen Hue, D1 5 Ton Duc Thang, D1 restaurant serving breakfasts, lunches unofficial expat rendezvous, partly a result 3821 0094 3911 5599 www.theburgercorner.com.vn and dinners of American, French, of its agreeable prices and sumptuous Zoom Cafe Seafood and Vietnamese cuisines, with Western-style pizzas and foods. The Elbow Room Oi’s Pick delivery and catering services also. 175/1 Pham Ngu Lao, D1

65 Pham Ngoc Thach 6, D3 Zoom cafe serves Tex-Mex and 3837 0760 The Elbow Room on Pasteur is an Vietnamese cuisine as well as running a American-style bistro with a long bar, Hog’s Breath Café Vespa tour service from within the café. Market 39 exposed brickwork, white walls, and Market 39 showcases seven interactive whirring ceiling fans – making for a 169A Bui Vien, D1 An Australian family diner and bar concept. live show kitchens, featuring a la carte casual, contemporary space with an 3920 3897 Renowned for quality steaks, seafood and all-day dining and an extensive buffet international vibe. More of a diner than a 7am - 2am daily other western fare served in an informal selection served daily during breakfast, restaurant, Elbow shoots at a cool, relaxed environment. Smoke-free indoors. lunch and dinner atmosphere, pleasantly decorating its Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, Ground floor, InterContinental Asiana warmly-lit walls with evocative black & 2 Hai Trieu, D1 Saigon white photos and subtle lighting. The List 3915 6066 Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan 52 Pasteur, D1 www.hogsbreathcafe.com.vn 3520 9099 3821 4327 te x pats www.intercontinental.com/saigon www.elbowroom.com.vn Jaspas Wine & Grill Oi’s Pick Mogambo Bar & Grill The Hungry Pig District 2 Jaspas Wine and Grill provides an extensive A sandwich bar that takes bacon very wine list along with many “reinvented” Mogambo is a dark, African-styled seriously, The Hungry Pig is a place Bakeries Jaspas dishes, new creations, and restaurant with some the finest US & Tex- where you can find bacon, wrapped in mouthwatering steaks. Japas also offers a Mex and exceptional burgers. fresh-baked bagels and baguettes. Voelker wide array of delectable dessert options. 50 Pasteur, D1 144 Cong Quynh, D1 French bakery selling fresh breads, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, D1 3825 1311 3836 4533 pastries and chocolate A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 56 39 Thao Dien, D2 area. Dine outside or in, on an off-the-cuff VIETNAMESE to sample a new vintage and brunches 6296 0066 menu prepared by the French chef, based on the weekends. voelker-vietnam.com on the best market ingredients available Banian Tree NO.1, Street 2nd, D2 on the day. A fine dining Vietnamese restaurant. www.vinovietnam.com BARS 14 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 Offers a set lunch, set dinner and 3898 2082 international breakfast Mcsorley’s www.lavilla-restaurant.com.vn River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 The List Recently opened Irish pub with a *Reviewed in Oi March 2013 swimming pool and outdoor patio. Frangipani Hoa Su Serves pub grub with events and theme Trois Gourmands Frangipani Hoa Su offers authentic nights happening regularly. Opened in 2004 and regarded as one Vietnamese cuisine with a variety of District 7 4 Thao Dien, D2 of the finest French restaurants in town. dishes from different parts of Vietnam 3519 4659 Owner Gils, a French native, makes his ranging from pho, bun bo Hue to mi BAKERIES www.mcsorleys.vn own cheeses as well. quang. It serves breakfast, lunch and 18 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 dinner. It also has an open space and Dunkin’ Donuts Papagayo Saigon 3744 4585 a VIP air-conditioned room together A resort-style design and French This American doughnut and coffee which can hold a maximum capacity of franchise offers munchkins, croissants, Mediterranean food are the make-up of Indian 500 people, making it an ideal venue for donut sandwich and toasted this newly opened hangout. different types of events and functions. sandwiches - along with the popular 18 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 Ashoka 26 Le Van Mien, D2 sugar raised, glazed chocolate mochi, 6252 1333 Ashoka is one of the city’s most popular [email protected] and enduring Indian restaurants with glazed, chocolate coconut, cinnamon, a reputation for good food with a wide Boston kreme, Bavarian Kreme, Buddha Bar Western/ INTERNATIONAL strawberry-filled or chocolate frosted range of North Indian culinary dishes One of the long standing bars in the donuts. at a reasonable price. Large space area, it has a pool table, darts, big screen Boathouse Oi’s Pick 59 Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 tvs along with cheap beers and bar food. for private parties,outdoor catering With a great view of the Saigon River, 7 Thao Dien, D2 and free home delivery also available. this restobar serves imported steak, Savouré Bakery Special set lunch veg/non-veg from 3744 2080 healthy salads and much more in an Offering gourmet cakes and pastries with VND90,000 upwards.Promotion (free alfresco environment. all the fine characteristics of the European trip to Cambodia) and discount available cafeS 40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior gourmet tradition. Customers can choose for people booking in groups. Compound, D2; 3744 6790 from a wide array of baked goods 33 Tong Huu Dinh (Street 53), D2 Agnes Cafe - Dalat Coffee & Flower www.boathouse.com.vn including cakes, desserts, breads, cookies, Shop 3744 4177 wedding cakes, and moon cakes during At Agnes Cafe they offer fresh coffee, www.ashokavietnam.com Blu Bar and Grill the season. smoothies and juices along with a Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 delicious breakfast and lunch menu. ITALIAN Blu Bar provides a wide range of Asian 5412 2469 This quaint and cozy cafe is a perfect Pendolasco – Thao Dien and Mediterranean specialties for www.savourebakery.com place to meet up with friends or just breakfast, lunch, and dinner along with

relax to get away from the bustling many unique beverage options. BARS Expect excellent classic Italian cuisine – traffic outside. They offer free delivery. 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 wood-fired pizza, spaghetti, and tiramisu – 11A-B Thao Dien, D2 3744 4111 Peaches cooked with a focus on fresh flavours and A spacious, attractive restobar with [email protected] 7am - 11pm 6281 9772 featuring the finest imported ingredients comfortable, lounge-style seating and a from Italy. bar area, this watering hole mixes three facebook.com/pages/Agnes-Cafe Blue Crab Oi’s Pick 36 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 beers on tap and a large screen for live Blue Crab offers delicious seafood 62532888 sports with a pan-Asian curry menu. Shalom Coffee - prawns, scallops and lobster, crab, www.pendolasco.vn S57-1 Sky Garden 2, D7 Shalom Coffee is available for all your oysters, scallops and many more for coffee and chocolate needs, warm Sarpino’s Pizzeria rock-bottom prices. All of the seafood Ruby Soho snacks, cold refreshments, breakfasts and is sourced from the same supplier A popular district 7 spot with excellent lunches. Sarpino’s Pizzeria is a famous pizza as a number of high-end hotels and and cheap range of cocktails, good 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 brand from Canada with three restaurants in the city, ensuring the food food and great music! Listen to the likes 37444111 branches around Ho Chi Minh City that is fresh and high quality. For meat-lovers of Jimi Hendrix, The Ramones or Beck www.coffeeshalom.com specializes in pizza, pasta and rice. there’s also a wide range of dishes that while downing an ice cold one. 43 Thao Dien, D2. 3744 2132 include pork ribs and chicken wings. S52-1 Sky Garden 2, D7 RESTAURANTS They offer weekly specials as well. JAPANESE 49 Quoc Huong, D2 FRENCH 3744 2008 Sala Beer Tama River-Japanese Restaurant www.bluecrabsaigon.com Enjoy Asian and European dishes at Bottles of sake fill shelves along the Sala Beer and choose and enjoy more wall behind the sushi bar, and unique Mekong Merchant than 50 famous beer brands from Japanese paintings add a nice visual Set in a colonial house within an around the world. touch. Since opening four months ago, open-air courtyard surrounding, this Ground floor White House Hotel the restaurant has attracted a diverse restaurant serves delicious pizza, R2-25 Bui Bang Doan, Hung Phuoc 1, D7 clientele, from locals to expats. sandwiches, smoothies with an 14E1 Thao Dien, D2 extensive wine list. The Tavern 3744 6782 23 Thao Dien, D2; 3744 4713 The Tavern is a Western pub & restaurant where patrons can play Chiisana Hashi Snap Cafe darts & pool, watch football or enjoy Serves authentic Japanese cuisine reasonably priced food and drinks. Le Bacoulos including sashimi, sushi, tempura, By day, Snap Cafe is a community- R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Le Bacoulos is a sukiyaki and shabu shabu centered, family-friendly cafe and French restaurant, bar River Garden, 170 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 restaurant. By night, guests can enjoy CAFES and lounge that serves French cuisine, 6683 5308 live music, sports on the big screen, bar food like burgers, fish and chips quiz nights, pool, foosball, and more. Baskin Robbins alongside vegetarian options like THAI Serves international cafe fare, great With more than 7000 branches in more spinach soup and Greek salad. There’s food, icy-cold draught beer and wine by than 50 countries, Baskin Robbins is also a garden to unwind in with a glass Baan Thai the carafe. The space is a large open- the largest ice-cream chain in the world with flavors such as Baseball Nut and of wine or enjoy a game of pool. plan room with an attached garden and Lunar Cheesecake. 13 Tong Huu Dinh, D2 play area for kids. Holds regular movie Baan Thai serves authentic Thai cuisine 105 Ton Dat Tien, D7 3519 4058 screenings. www.bacoulos.com using a considerable variety of tastes and www.baskinrobbins.vn spices prepared by Thai chefs.Generally 32 Tran Ngoc Dien, D2 speaking, the cuisine leans more towards 35194532 Bud’s www.snap.com.vn Gastro’home being authentic in taste than serving the Bringing the taste of American ice more internationalised versions of Thai cream to Vietnam, Bud’s Ice Cream has New delicatessen shop offering cuisine available elsewhere. The Deck nine stores in Ho Chi Minh City. Apart western-fusion French food by French 55 Thao Dien, D2; 3744 5453 from a variety of delicious ice cream chef Stephane Courtin. Visit the shop Located on the banks of the Saigon te x pats www.baanthai-anphu.com flavors, Bud’s also offers a wide range or try their catering service. River, this restaurant offers great of Western and Vietnamese food. 100 Xuan Thuy, D2. 6281 9830 Jasmine Thai international and Vietnamese fare. SD - 04 Panorama Residential Complex, D7 38 Nguyen U Di, D2 www.budsicecream.com.vn La Villa Oi’s Pick Expect here variations on dishes you'll www.thedecksaigon.com find throughout the Thai culinary tradition Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf This Colonial-style villa set in a quietly with features more common to those Vino The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf serves gentrified district 2 street is a cache of restaurants serving in Western nations. They offer professional advice on some of the best coffee and tea from luxury with its beautiful poolside garden 85 Quoc Huong, D2 selecting and tasting wines. The around the world. It also has a full line and cosy, scenic white-toned dining room ©2013 A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013 3519 0038 outdoor terrace area is the perfect spot of baked goods made from high quality

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 57 ingredients, most of which are from atmosphere. Boomarang Bistro Saigon Classic Fine Foods their own proprietary recipes. Reviewed in Oi April 2013 Located in The Crescent by the Supplier of international brand foodstuff Ground Floor, Crescent Mall, Ton Dat Tien, D7 Block 07-08 CR1-07, 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 Crescent lake, the spacious Boomarang like Illy, Valrhona, Bonne Maman along www.coffeebean.com.vn 5413 7932 Bistro Saigon serves Australian with fresh vegetables, dairy, and meat. FB Deli Coffee and other Western food in the most No. 17, Street 12, D2 Sarpino’s pedestrian friendly part of town. www.classicfinefoods.com

107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 FB Deli Coffee features a unique black and Sarpino’s Pizzeria serves authentic 3841 3883 white design and signature coffee beans Italian pizzas as well as other Italian www.boomarang.com.vn imported from Italy. Guests can also enjoy dishes such as oven-baked pasta, many varieties of homemade cakes, along baked rice, wraps and salad, all at Cham Charm with Tiramisu, muffins, and sandwiches. All reasonable prices. Famous for their extensive international cakes 50% off from 7 to 10pm. 3SI 12-1 Grandview, Nguyen Cao Nam, D7 nightly buffet featuring 8 types of SE-1 My Khanh 2 Apartments, D7 www.sarpinos.vn oysters, American Angus beef and The Fountain Coffee Ice Cream Salt & Pepper Italian Restaurant Australian filets, Cham Charm is Known for its Swiss ice cream with all Located in the modern confines of The devoted to Cham arts, culture and the fixings, Fountain Coffee also serves Crescent, this contemporary-styled cuisine and is tastefully decorated with Western dishes in a spacious lounge Italian restaurant and pizzeria has an Cham artifacts and sculptural works. Le Cochon D’or area. open kitchen and an outdoor terrace 02 Phan Van Chuong, Phu My Hung New LeCochon SB4-1 My Duc Residential Complex, area. Serving up a range of pan-Italian Urban, D7 D’or shop sells Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 cuisine, the menu includes a selection European and of salads, pastas, main courses, pizzas EL CAMINO International meat that include ham, MOF Japanese Sweets & Coffee and desserts, all at affordable prices. sausages, pate, terrine, and smoked Crescent 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 | 5412 4848 A small bar & restaurant situated in the specialties. A taste of home, because www.saltpepper.com.vn heart of Phu My Hung. Relaxing outdoor you and your taste buds deserve it! Sourcing the majority of their dessert saloon featuring inexpensive Spanish Customizes service available including ingredients from Hokkaido, Japan, MOF JAPANESE tapas and small plates from gourmet door-to-door delivery. serves up premium desserts and a ingredients. Affordable selection of 64 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 Japanese restaurant menu. Osaka Ramen Spanish & French wines. 3829 3856 101 Ton Dat Tien, D7 This sleek, open-kitchen contemporary 137 SB-02 Khu My Phat, Nguyen Duc 8am – 7pm www.mof.com.vn/en eatery serves up Japanese noodles Canh, D7 www.ngp.com.vn NYDC starting from VND78,000. There are 5412 4641, 3pm - midnight also set menus, individual dishes and a www.facebook.com/elcaminovietnam Metro Established in 1995 in Singapore, NYDC, range of smaller, appetizing sides. Wholesale suppliers of foodstuff, office The New York Dessert Café, aims to SD04, LO H29-2, My Phat Residential El Gaucho supplies, furniture, clothes and more. bring a piece of New York to Southeast Complex, D7 El Gaucho Argentinian Steakhouse is Asia with their popular mudpies and a an international chain of restaurants Entry is reserved for business owners whole range of Western comfort foods. THAI serving authentic Argentinian cuisine only but foreigners can obtain a one- 107 Ton Dat Tien, D7 in a space reflecting modern yet rustic day pass by showing their passports. Residential An Phu, An Khanh Ward 2 S’cottage Restaurant - Café Nathalie's Phu My Hung decor, giving it an inviting ambiance and genuine atmosphere. Inspired by the mysterious wooden Veggy’s Nathalie's Phu My Hung is situated in an Unit CR1-12, The Crescent, D7 house in the Hansel and Gretl story, A specialized grocery store carrying ideal location on a central corner in the 3825 1879 S’cottage serves up home-style meals imported products, Veggy’s offers district 7 high-profile metropolitan area. www.elgaucho.com.vn in a spacious, fairy-tale inspired space. Serving delicious Thai cuisine in charming a wide range of international food SB-02 My Duc Residential Complex, and romantic surroundings, the restaurant Salt & Pepper imported from abroad and fresh Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 produce grown in Vietnam. has two floors with a unified, simple decor Salt & Pepper Restaurant mainly serves 5411 1186 S54-1 Sky Garden 2, Pham Van Nghi, D7 and warm colourful tones throughout. Italian dishes. CHINESE S9 Hung Vuong 3 Apartments, D7 103 Ton Dat Tien, D7 5410 0822 www.saltpepper.com.vn wine & liquor Huong Vien Hunanese Restaurant www.nathaliesrestaurant.com Scott & Binh’s Restaurant Oi’s Pick Bacchus Corner Thai Express- Crescent Plaza This unassuming little bistro is making Serving China’s little-known spiciest Bachhus imports from most of the cuisine, the dishes of China’s reddest Thai Express's interpretation of Thai big waves with visitors to the city and food exhibits the best of the cuisine but world’s wine regions and supplies province and the preferred taste resident expats alike. With a menu replete wholesale and retail customers. It of Chairman Mao, Huong Vien is with the edges softened for a global with tasty sandwiches, burgers, pasta, and palate unused to the extremes of Thai encourages wine tasting in its Pasteur well-decorated although a bit on the various other international dishes, this is store using the unique Enomatic pricey side, with dishes averaging style cooking. Averaging from 40,000 an ideal guilty hideaway from Vietnamese VND to 200,000 VND per dish, its price system, and staff are skilled in advising VND180,000 . cuisine for just one meal at least. on wine matches with food. S59-S61, Sky Garden 2 Apartments, D7 can't be beat for the same quality and 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, D7 deliciousness. 158D Pasteur, D1 Ming Dynasty 105 Ton Dat Tien, D7 Beer Plaza Ming Dynasty serves authentic Chinese supermarkets VIETNAMESE Beer Plaza has an extensive range food in a setting reminiscent of an old of international beers in stock. Chinese palace. Specialties include dim 100% Co Ba Vung Tau Connoisseurs will be pleased to find all sum, shark fin and abalone and dishes 100% Alimentation.Generale.De.Qualite Co Ba Vung Tau is a chain of traditional of their favorite varieties of beer along from Quang Dong. is the latest high-end grocery store to Vietnamese restaurants serving up with unique glassware. 23 Nguyen Khac Vien, D7 grace the streets of An phu. With a rustic their famous banh khot amongst 94-96 Le Lai, D1 charm 100% provides customers with an extensive menu of affordable INDIAN 100% safe, natural and local products all Vietnamese food. Boutique Cellar sourced and manufactured in Vietnam. R1-72 Hung Gia 1, Bui Bang Doan, D7 All about wine, lots and lots of Ashoka The shop only offers products that reach 5410 2027 wine. Priding itself in being the sole Ashoka is a small chain of slightly more international food safety requirements upscale Indian restaurants serving both distributors of premium wineries around ASIAN and runs food events at the store. All the world. Northern and Southern Indian cuisine products are available to order online at including curries, naan and tandoris. 11 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 www.100percent.vn.com. S9-1 Block R13, Bui Bang Doan, D7 Cham Charm 26b Thao dien, D2 5410 1989 Shop Thai Duong Charm is more like a museum than a Beer, wine, & spirits importers. Spice India dining venue, filled with the artefacts and Annam Gourmet Previously known as Tan Mai. Spice India offers a wide range of sculpture of the Champa people and An upscale deli and grocery chain offering 54 Ham Nghi, D1 dishes that cater to any pallette. Enjoy with gorgeous artworks and colourful gourmet groceries, cheese, organic your curry with a side of Bollywood. hangings on the walls. The upstairs area is products, gluten -free products, fruit and The Warehouse S6-1 Bui Bang Doan, Hung Vuong 3, D7 a wide-open terrace with plenty of tables vegetables, gourmet deli, wine and other A premium wine importer, distributor, 093 841 6551 for a more relaxing atmosphere. The beverages. All locations, in District 1, 2 and retailer supplying wines from www.namaste-india.com.vn cuisine is pan-Asian. and 7, have a coffee lounge that serves all over the world, the Warehouse 2 Phan Van Chuong, D7 breakfast, lunch, drinks and early dinner. also offers spirits, wine accessories, ITALIAN 41A Thao Dien street. D2. 3744 2630 glassware and refrigeration to WESTERN/INTERNATIONAL SB2-1 My Khanh 4,Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 complement their customers’

La Cucina 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 choices. te x pats Berru 15/5 Le Thanh Ton, D1 La Cucina has opened on Crescent Berru is a family-run Turkish restaurant An Phu Supermarket Promenade in Phu My Hung, with offering a variety of Turkish specialties Large supermarket stocking a wide Vinifera an open-plan kitchen that can on the menu including kebabs, koftas, range well-known international brands Established in 2002, Vinifera is one accommodate 180 diners. Enjoy mezzes and soups. This is one of the of dry goods along with fresh groceries, of the most reliable wine distribution top-end dining featuring the best of few halal restaurants that imports all of frozen meat and fish, fresh fruit and companies in Vietnam.Offering Italian cuisine and a wide selection of their halal meat. vegetables, cheese, wine, toiletries and prestigious wines from around the imported seafood, prepared from the SC 3-1 Khu Pho My Khang, Nguyen Luong more world at a a great value.

freshest ingredients, in a relaxed, rustic Bang, D7 43 Thao Dien, D2 15C7 Thi Sach, D1 A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013

LEGEND: Wi-Fi Delivery Credit Card Dendau Privileges Apply 58 Travel & Leisure Image by Jura cullen

Cua Hang Mau Dich “State-run food shop”

59 GREAT ESCAPES: HANOI

classic tourists sites and street names. They go into incredible detail including street specialities, food stalls, restaurants, shops, tiny hidden temples, and other quirky Treasure Map particulars. It was not just about what they could see from the street, the two ladies had Uncovering Hanoi’s hidden charms to dig deeper, speaking with and getting to know Hanoians along the way in an attempt Text and Images by Jura Cullen to understand more about the city. “Once, I was attracted by what was inside one of the long, dark, damp corridors of the old town, so I stepped into a derelict tiny courtyard and stumbled upon an old woman crouched over a blackened, battered pot over a cooking fire,” recounts Julie. “It was her kitchen – outside, bare, basic, uncomfortable. She stood up, listened to my awkward words in Vietnamese, and with a stony face seized my elbow to drive me out of the place. Or so I thought. In fact, she was taking me to her living room, the only place where she could decently offer me tea and willingly communicate.” Because of a severe housing shortage after the war, the Old Quarter became one of the most densely populated areas in the world. This is part of the reason why people live their lives out on the streets and even the railways, and why Hanoi has such a rich street culture. The two explored alleyways discovering shortcuts, ancient wells and community houses, learning along the way not to worry about invading what we would perceive as people’s personal space. They also came to appreciate Hanoians’ great ability to take people as they come and not pass judgment – although perhaps this is to be expected in a city where people head out to parks to do exercise still dressed in their pajamas. “When we were visiting promising bars, restaurants or hotels we often had to stop three or four times on the same street but we could not face taking off our helmets, hanging them up, and then combing our hair to look presentable, so imagine the sight of the pair of us taking lifts, visiting rooms or going through menus while chatting in a foreign language with our helmets on, like pizza delivery boys, and no one seemed surprised!” says Julie with a chuckle. Hanoi is as good a place as any to lose one’s inhibitions as the ladies found out when they discovered Huong Sen Massage off Nghi Tam. “It is a very traditional Vietnamese style spa with absolutely no frills, a place where Vietnamese ladies go in groups to socialize and relax. It is warm and noisy with women Hanoi’s landscape seems to sprawl ago, they had only the most basic tourist of all ages strutting around absolutely naked, endlessly into an inconceivable labyrinth maps in hand but after a visit to Bangkok, except for their mobiles glued to their ears. of concrete roads, rivers, bridges, buildings where they encountered Nancy Chandler’s We are always welcome and much stared and houses, and at its center is a mass of Map, they were taken with the idea of a at. No one speaks a word of English. Just higgledy-piggledy streets and alleyways. The hand-annotated map and decided to make imagine all these women soaking in a line of Old Quarter has been the heart of commerce one for Hanoi. giant wooden buckets, with only a shower in Hanoi since its founding by Ly Thai To in “When time allowed, (Julie is a teacher, cap on our heads, drinking unidentified thick 1010, with the same pattern of warren-like Isabelle a doctor) we would hop on Isabelle’s green beverages in a misty atmosphere.” But streets since the 15th century. bike and just head up and down the streets they didn’t just try the spa for their map; it So how does one make sense of exploring marking down our discoveries with dots has now become one of their favorite places Hanoi? Two long-term residents of the city, and numbers, trying to be as methodical as for a soak, a steam, and a massage. Isabelle and Julie, have set out to help with possible – some days we would be out for 10 The first map was released in 2010, geared the creation of a detailed map and guide to hours,” says Julie. primarily towards expats. The most recent the city’s well- and lesser-known charms. Unlike most conventional maps, Nancy version, created in partnership with Nancy When the pair first moved to Hanoi six years Chandler’s Maps show more than just the and Nima Chandler, includes even more

60 "It was not just about what they could see from the street, the two ladies had to dig deeper, speaking and getting to know Hanoians along the way in an attempt to understand more about the city"

information about the city. The beauty of the map is that it doesn’t tell you where to go, but opens up the possibilities of this charming but chaotic city. It is full of tips about Hanoi’s eccentricities, telling you where to find song bird clubs, antique electric fans, unusual architecture, and even padded- bottomed underwear! All Drawn Out After meeting Isabelle and Julie, I explored some of their favorite places with the help of the map. One of the first places I headed off to find wasCua Hang Mau Dich (“State-run food shop”) on Truc Bach island. Although the island is tiny, all the roads seem to go round and round in circles and at first we were only able to findpho cuon stalls with brash young men calling out for us to stop. Eventually we found the right road and the small unassuming French-era building tucked behind strangling climbers with barely a sign for identification. Inside the dark building every wall and surface is cluttered with ration-era paraphanelia from food stamps to black and white photos to Soviet fans. Many of the tables are made from old Singer sewing machine frames. Prices are cheap but then dishes are austere with a distinctly higher bone-to- meat ratio. The restaurant harks back to the difficult bygone days when rationing was still in place - ration tickets are issued to you upon ordering. It still manages to have some delicious, but very simple, dishes including pounded fish cakes, tofu in tomato sauce, ‘burnt’ rice, and chicken fried with lime leaves – delicious until you realize that you are nibbling the morsels of meat off a head. It is very popular with Vietnamese and much more authentic than many of the standard guidebook recommendations. On another day, with map in hand, I wandered down Phan Huy Ich, a charming street still lined with French villas from the 1920s. I headed to a little café and contemporary art space called Manzi. It’s a calm place to step into, out of the bustle of Hanoi, and enjoy a particularly bitter and TOP TO BOTTOM: Old Quarter, Manzi, song bird club

61 "Cycling is by far the best way to see the city as bikes can be parked almost anywhere so it’s very easy to stop at any point"

tasty casual food in a light and airy converted French villa, with a large roof terrace for when Hanoi’s weather behaves. The map is an invaluable tool for getting to know Hanoi. It is now included in every room in the Sofitel Metropole and is available Truc Bach Map at Bookworm, Hanoi’s English language bookstore. It has clearly been a labor of love for the two, driven by a passion for the city rather than commercial reasons. “Our main hope is that it will motivate people to explore and enjoy Hanoi for themselves,” say the two.

Bio: Jura Cullen has been based in Hanoi for the last two years. She has also lived in Sudan, the US, France and the UK. Her blog Hound in Hanoi (juraphotos.wordpress.com) includes photography from quirky things seen in Hanoi with her Nubian hound Tala, and other travels around the region and world.

Additional Info

Nancy Chandler Map of Hanoi website which includes updates: www.nancychandler.net/product_update. asp?pId=1105#Sightseeing West Lake Huong Sen Massage 68 An Duong (off Nghi Tam)

strong ca phe nau da while looking at the copious rubbish, I began to chat with some of Cua Hang Mau Dich ever-changing art exhibitions, flooded by the men. One younger guy, who spoke very (“State-run food shop”) light from the tall french windows. good English, explained he is an engineer 37 Nam Trang, Truc Bach Next I headed off on one of the map's and does this merely as a hobby – he never Manzi self-guided walking tours – indicated on actually eats the fish. Café and art space the map by a dotted brown line. It winds Afterwards we cycled on toChua Van 14 Phan Huy Ich through the Old Quarter taking you down Nien on the far northwest side of the lake. Commune some of the most interesting streets such as We headed downstairs under the temple to Café and bar on the West side of West Lake Lan Ong, a traditional medicine street, where a specially designed grotto complete with a www.communehanoi.com you can smell the herbs before you even small flowing stream. Soon we were pacing 21 North begin to see bags of hanging sea horses and around and turning a huge pink marble linga, Café, bar, and music venue geckos amongst other peculiar things. The a very unusual experience as lingas are not www.21northhanoi.com walk takes about 2.5 hours leading you in a usually found in Hanoian temples. All the The Kafe sensible circuit down most of the traditional temples are marked on the map along with 18 Dien Bien Phu guild streets. cafes and bars such as Commune and 21 www.thekafe.vn/index.php/en/ Another of Isabelle and Julie’s North where you can stop for a break on For historical recommendations is to take advantage of your way around the lake. and cultural walks the lake road around West Lake (which Since the most recent map went to print, through the Old Quarter didn’t exist when they first arrived) and go one of the new art and nightlife spaces cycling and temple hopping. Cycling is by far included – Zone 9 – has closed permanently. Friends of Vietnam Heritage, the best way to see the city as bikes can be But of course new places are always cropping a non-profit educational group parked almost anywhere so it’s very easy to up so it is a good idea to check for updates on fvheritage.org/events/city-walks/ stop at any point. On our way along the lake the website. One of their new favorite cafés, The Hanoi Bicycle Collective we also got to watch all the men out fishing. Kafe, didn’t make it on the current map (bike rentals and tours) After wondering who would dare eat fish out but is causing a stir as a hip place for young www.thbc.vn of West Lake, based on the murky color and Vietnamese and foreigners to meet and eat

62 GREAT ESCAPES: HAWAII Paradise for Sale Finding the Old Hawaii on the island of Lāna'i Text & IMAGES by James PhaM

Kahekili's Leap

Hawaii – The name alone is enough to a permanently faded photograph of Old “Within memory of the last generation, conjure up visions of idyllic sandy beaches Hawaii. Even among perpetually relaxed there were still native trees and plants on bordering crystalline waters just steps from Hawaiians, Lāna’i is known as the place to the island. Now, 150 years later, we’re still world-class malls, resorts and restaurants. get away from it all. dealing with the aftereffects of [Gibson’s] Most would-be travelers tend to think Lāna'i, pronounced as three syllables, not decision to bring sheep and goats to the first of Honolulu on the island of Oahu, two (“lanai is a porch, Lāna'i is the name island. Some of the ancient place names are known for its famed Waikiki Beach and the of our island,” says Simon Seisho Tajiri, tied into our identity as to what it means to island’s North Shore, home to international Program Manager at the Lānaʻi Culture & be Lāna’i. Had we understood that better, surfing competitions. Newlyweds may Heritage Center) is 98 percent privately we might have been better at preserving it,” make it to neighboring Maui for a owned with the remaining two percent Simon says with a hint of wistfulness. helicopter view of its dormant volcano and owned by the State of Hawaii. In fact, for James Dole then purchased Lānaʻi in stunning waterfalls. Few, though, have ever the last century and a half, the fate of its 1922, turning practically the entire island heard of Lāna'i, much less visited the sixth population (3,102 at the last census) has into one gigantic pineapple farm. At one largest of the Hawaiian Islands, the least been inextricably intertwined with the will point, it’s said that the 141 square mile accessible to the public. of a succession of individuals, still called island produced 75 percent of the world’s While nearly five million tourists visited “landowner” by locals. pineapples, employing the majority Oahu in 2012, just 72,000 made it to the of Lāna’i’s workforce and earning it tiny island of Lāna'i. The lucky few that Purchasing Power the moniker of “Pineapple Island.” The do, however, experience a version of The late 1800s saw the island used for plantations attracted workers from all over, Hawaii unlike any other, a magical step ranching under Walter M. Gibson. In including Japan, China, the Philippines and back in time, worlds away from the glitz addition to bringing Mormonism to Portugal, explaining why most locals bear and glamour of its better known sister Lāna’i, he also imported more than 50,000 physical features of multiple ethnicities. A islands. Visitors may come for the pair of sheep and goats which were left to graze lingering legacy is found in Hawaiian jokes award-winning Four Seasons resorts and freely, quickly decimating the native which poke fun at all the minorities, but secluded, hard-to-get-to beaches but they cover, forever changing the natural water with the meanest reserved for podagees, come back for the slow-paced way of life, recharge processes. Pidgin for “Portuguese,” who were often the

63 THE SIMPLE LIFE

Left: A shop in Lanai City Right: Church at Keomoku

Q & A Oi sat down with Alice Bouman, Resort Manager for the Four Seasons Lodge at Koele, which perennially finds itself on lists of the world’s best places to stay.

Four Seasons Manele Bay

It’s unusual to have two properties so close to each other. How does this affect the guest experience? “It's a different sense of place here. Pretty For guests, it means they don't have to carry money. They can use facilities at much everyone knows everyone. If I see both locations and just sign everything to their room. We also offer a seamless stay. Halfway through their trip, they can change someone’s child in trouble, I'm going to help. A lot properties and we’ll have the key and their luggage waiting for them without having to of people in the community would do that" fill in any additional forms. It’s like an island hop without hopping islands because each property has a very different identity and provides a different experience. There are microclimates here, which means that plantation supervisors. a job, [the hotels] were it. Either that, or we can be between 10 - 15 degrees cooler than down at Manele Bay. “I remember working on the plantations move away.” in summers,” recalls Lāna'i native Warren Constance Cabiles, born and raised on Usually, service-oriented people are Osako of the grueling work of picking Lāna'i, was part of the group that opposed drawn to the hospitality industry. Here, it wasn’t by choice. What have the pineapples by hand. “It was hard work, the transition from pineapples. “We were challenges been? but fun, because you got to work with worried that our way of life would change,” your friends. The plantations provided she recalls. “You want progress? Go to Maui You’re right that people didn't have a choice. Pineapple picker #1 became server a lot for the community.” The entire or Oahu. We were worried that it would #1. But as times have changed and more population working together created lead to stoplights, more people, and all that.” employment options became available like an unusual camaraderie. “There was a For longtime residents, there was much in healthcare or in the school system, more and more of the staff have chosen to be in whistle that blew at 6am when it was time to lose. hospitality. Our two properties have about to go to work and then again at 8pm to 650 employees and 70 percent of our tell everyone to go to sleep,” remembers Small Town Mentality staff are truly from here. Unemployment on the island is like one percent. Positions Sammy, another Lāna’i native. “Lāna’i is unique. It's incredibly quiet and open up and I can't fill them locally at the The entire population still lives in the it's slow paced. Few of us lock our doors at moment because the one percent that seven square mile of Lāna'i City, an orderly night. You can park your car in the middle aren't working aren't working for a reason. grid built around Dole Park, anchored by a of the street, leave your keys in and not A lot of our staff haven't had exposure to few grocery stores, restaurants and souvenir worry about it,” says Simon. “It’s really other luxury properties so we spend quite shops. There are no traffic lights, malls or community living. You went to school with a bit of time training and developing. We want our staff to have their personality fast food joints on the island. Most of the the same classmates from K to 12. There was shine through. houses are small, square, clapboard affairs, a strike in the ’50s for seven months, but known as “plantation houses,” arranged in the people were able to sustain themselves Four Seasons began operations here under Murdock and now Ellison. How “camps” named after the various ethnicities without company pay, hunting and fishing hands-on have the landowners been in who came to the island to work. Haole and pooling resources together.” regards to how the resorts are run? Camp (haole is Hawaiian for “foreigner”) or Warren agrees. “It's a different sense of Murdock realized pineapple wasn’t making more colloquially, Snob Hill, is still used to place here. Pretty much everyone knows money so he transitioned to hospitality refer to the part of town where plantation everyone. If I see someone’s child in trouble, and brought in a lot of infrastructure. To managers and supervisors lived away from I'm going to help. A lot of people in the have someone like Ellison with renewed vision and the pockets to support that the workers in nicer homes. community would do that. I have AAA as makes a huge difference. It’s allowed us In the mid-80s, the island came under my backup when I travel, but don't need it to do some needed maintenance, but the control of billionaire David Murdock. here. My friends are my AAA. When my car also even in town with the community pool, sports fields and grocery stores all Foreseeing the decline of the pineapple broke down, a friend picked me up. Another getting a facelift. Houses are being fixed industry, Murdock set to building two friend did the repairs. When growing up, if up as soon as someone moves out. It’s luxury hotels, effectively redeploying the I did something wrong, by dinner time, my no longer okay to have something falling apart. The whole mentality has changed. entire workforce into the service industry. parents were going to know about it.” People are considered important again. It’s “We didn’t feel that it was a positive Mikala, a single mother of one, opines on provided hope to the island. move, but we had no choice,” says Warren. the quality of life in small town Lāna’i. “In “When the plantations closed, if you wanted other large communities, you spend most

64 of your time stuck in traffic. Here, you walk used to being off island,” recalls Simon. “I pool [which had been closed for years] was your okole (butt) to work, to the store. If remember feeling lost in a McDonald’s on restored and the park redone before work there are three people in line at the bank, Maui. What’s a Dollar Menu? Growing up was done on the resorts.” you’d go, ‘Shucks! Why so many people?’ on a small island, there’s an unfamiliarity However, plans for the island go far But you use the time you save to gather with the outside world. Some have trouble beyond the cosmetic. The island's newspaper with friends and family, to get to know leaving the island or staying in college.” recently highlighted draft plans which where you live.” “You know everyone, but the downside is include building a large research university, Oahu transplant Yasha Anne agrees everyone also knows everyone’s business,” a tennis academy, a third resort, and a that Lāna’i is a great place to raise her adds Yasha Anne. desalination plant amongst other projects, children. “I couldn’t have picked a safer On the influx of off-island workers, Simon creating many more jobs and housing but place to live. This here is not real. It’s echoes the sentiment of many that “as more doubling the island's population. The last overly safe. This is not reality, but it's a people are coming in, that small town vibe time that many people lived on the island reality that I want for myself.” is slowly changing. That level of trust is was before it had contact with the West. However, on an island where a gallon of also changing. With many of these people Constance, who opposed the last major gas costs USD5.80 and a gallon of milk can who are coming now, I don’t know them, or transition, admits that “after we saw how it cost upwards of USD12, residents are keenly know who their families are.” all worked, we were grateful. People who aware of the drawbacks to size and isolation. had left the island could come back now that When the “rock fever” gets too much, The Company You Keep there were jobs. We were being trained in a residents can hop a ferry to the Wal-Mart The way things are headed, the people of new industry we could use.” and movie theaters that beckon seductively Lāna’i may need to brace for a veritable “The Company has been really good on Maui or take a 30 minute flight to tsunami of change. The island once again about holding at least three to four very experience city life on Oahu. “But who changed hands in 2012, now belonging to informative town meetings a month on wants to deal with all that?” asks Auntie Larry Ellison, billionaire CEO of Oracle and updates,” says Yasha Anne. “People feel Irene, as she deftly strings a lei of orchids for the third richest man in America. In the year they have a say. We can see that in the near tourists. “Anytime I go off island and come or so since taking over ownership, Ellison future, so much is going to change. We just back, I breathe a sigh of relief.” has received a mostly favorable reception have to cross our fingers that the change On the more serious side, Simon notes from the people whose lives are so closely will be for the good.” that “like any community where it’s tied into whatever plans he may have for ‘The Company’ she refers to is Ellison’s paradise, it also comes with its problems.” Lāna’i. “When Murdock was leaving the Pulama Lāna’i which oversees development Key infrastructure is lacking. Expectant island, a lot of infrastructure closed down, on the island, including the businesses, mothers must travel elsewhere to deliver lots of people were laid off,” recalls Simon. the water company and the wastewater their babies. The only choice for higher “But when the island was purchased, treatment company. While the two luxury education is the community college in the we saw a lot more activity, landscaping, properties are actually managed separately center of town, a small building where construction and renovation.” by Four Seasons, many of the locals simply students take online distance learning “This landowner is making a lot more call all of Ellison’s endeavors ‘The Company’. courses, often video conferencing with a changes very quickly. But it’s good to see To most visitors, the face of The Company handful of other kids from the neighboring that he’s putting the community before the is the pair of five-star Four Seasons resorts, islands of Maui and Kauai. “I wasn’t business,” says Yasha Anne. “The community routinely garnering accolades for top resorts

65 Wild Coast

in Hawaii and beyond. Located 1,600 feet or Mouflon sheep. above sea level in the upcountry of Lāna’i, "The terrain is all dirt roads, rocks, sand Four Seasons Resort Lāna'i, The Lodge at and hills," says Yasha Anne of Dollar. "But Where to stay & Koele is modeled after a hunting lodge, other than sometimes getting stuck in the How to get there complete with wood burning fireplaces sand, visitors don't get into much trouble. in the Great Hall and expansive grounds Jeep rentals are expensive (starting at - For more on the fascinating history of Lāna’i, visit the excellent Lāna’i Culture & which feature croquet, stables, a sporting USD139 per day) because they have to Heritage Center right in town. range and a Greg Norman designed golf be brought in from off island and major www.lanaichc.org course. Twenty minutes away is the Four maintenance has to be done on Oahu, but - The only totally off road Jeep rental in Seasons Resort Lāna’i at Manele Bay, set on they're the only way to see some of the the state of Hawaii, Dollar Rent A Car a cliff overlooking a stunning bay where sights like Polihua Beach which has some of has Jeeps and Hummers, the only way huge pods of spinner dolphins routinely the roughest terrain but is breathtaking." to explore the island. www.dollarlanai.com play for hours. Daredevils might brave Kahekili's Leap, With a combined 338 rooms, two golf a rock ledge 80 feet above the sea where - Set above the gorgeous marine courses and a host of restaurants including warriors during King Kamehameha’s reign preserve of Hulopo’e Bay, The Four Seasons Resort Lāna’i at Manele Bay a recently opened Nobu, it’s not surprising showcased their machismo by jumping is a mecca for beach lovers. With 237 that the average visitor to Lāna’i is into the shallow blue waters below. Or for oversized guest rooms decorated in anecdotally wealthier than the average an otherworldly experience, Keahiakawelo tropical chic, the property features a range of water sports including stand-up Hawaii tourist, spending just over USD300 (also known as Garden of the Gods) with paddleboard and surfing lessons and per day, compared to USD214 for Oahu and its unusual moonscape of rich, red volcanic world-class dining boasting menu items USD186 for Maui. earth and rocks juxtaposed against a deep from around the Hawaiian islands. Doubles start at USD449. Off the perfectly manicured grounds of the blue ocean backdrop is a popular stop. www.fourseasons.com/manelebay stunning resorts, Lāna’i's wild side beckons. Lāna’i's history can also be found along its With only 30 miles of paved roads (mostly rugged coastline - faded old churches and - Just 20 minutes away and close to Lāna’i City is The Lodge at Koele, between the resorts, the city and the airport), ancient Hawaiian petroglyphs - and its a stunning property with expansive a four-wheel drive vehicle is a must to see warm hospitality among the fishing shacks grounds which house lawn bowling the raw beauty of the island. The words that dot the deserted beaches. Owned by greens, an orchid house, stables and a reflecting pond. All 101 rooms overlook "Not Accessible" stamped across some of the locals, the rustic, weathered houses are The Lodge’s perfectly manicured off-road routes on the Jeep Safari map from left open for all to enjoy. Homemade signs gardens, and the floral prints and jewel Dollar Rent A Car as well as a handwritten welcome strangers, with the simple request tones are designed to whisk guests back to the heady heights of the "Bumpy" scrawled along one particular to clean up afterwards. plantation era. Doubles start at USD349. stretch of road presages the rough driving Whether that paradisiacal spirit of www.fourseasons.com/koele conditions ahead. But visitors who brave the community can survive with all the - Island Air, also owned by Larry Ellison, dusty, boulder-strewn paths are rewarded changes on the horizon is yet to be seen. is currently the only way to fly into Lāna’i with some of the most stunning views of any However, Simon notes with optimism: from Honolulu. Its 64-seat turboprops of the Hawaiian islands ranging from totally "There's been a lot said about visitors make the 25-minute flight five times a day. Return flights start at USD130. undeveloped beaches to views of neighboring changing Lāna’i. But visiting Lāna’i with www.islandair.com Molokai and Maui and the Pacific beyond to its chill vibe and community ethos will guava forests with the occasional Axis deer change you, too."

66 LIFE'S A TRIP TRAVEL Column

The Case for

Having visited nearly 60 countries as a travel writer and award-winning photographer, James Pham ‘Authentic Travel’ blogs about his adventures at FlyIcarusFly.com Opening yourself up to new experiences

‘Authentic travel’ has been a hot low. I asked three shy teens, two boys ancient city of Bhaktapur, Nepal, armed topic recently in the travel community. and a girl, dressed in crisp white school with a Lonely Planet walking map, Exactly what defines ‘authentic travel’ uniforms, how to get to the Emerald bypassing the touts, fully intent on making and is it really superior to other forms of Pagoda. Initially met with panicked looks my own way. At the last minute, though, I travel? Some say it means getting off the and a flurry of Thai, one of them finally decided to take up a teenage boy’s offer of beaten path, interacting with locals and managed, “We go. You come with us.” We walking me through the town. He didn’t stepping out of your comfort zone. spent the morning together, touring the have any flashy tourist brochures and Last month, I wrote about a pina huge complex, barely speaking because we spoke halting English ― exactly why I colada-filled stay in an all-inclusive mega- had no real common language. chose him. He lived in the city and wasn’t resort on the Mayan Riviera. While it was Afterwards, though, they took me for interested in taking me to tourist shops. indeed blissful and an ideal destination noodles and when it came time to pay, Best of all, my nose wasn’t buried in a for a family trip, it’s not what I would they refused to take my money. “You in book trying to stay on a specific route. consider ‘authentic’ by any stretch. Had it our country. We pay. When we come your Instead, we at times deviated from the not been for all the salsa and guacamole country, you pay,” was the essence of what path, checking out courtyard fountains around, I might not have even realized we they told me, knowing full well they’d and walking through a mom-and-pop were in Mexico. most likely never set foot in my country. It paper making factory. When I think back to some of my most made me a believer in the Land of Smiles. The alternative is organized group tours. memorable trips, they revolved around I have to admit that a small part of me dies interactions with locals, seeing a side of Chancing It every time I get on a tour bus, following a the country that was totally unexpected, However, with language barriers, guide holding a flag like so many ‘sheeple’. perhaps trying a food or doing something safety concerns or even an introverted Whenever I can, I engage local guides that I normally wouldn’t back home. personality, those wonderfully on a one-to-one basis. That was the case One of my best travel moments came serendipitous experiences may be in Luxor, Egypt, where for USD30 for a in the mid-90s, as I was traveling through increasingly difficult to come by. Many half-day, I was able to secure a driver and Thailand for the first time. My travel feel more secure in being part of a tour guide. All morning, we stayed ahead of companions had a family emergency, or at least having a guide and that’s the huge bus groups, enjoying the sites leaving me alone in a strange country. I perfectly fine. in relative quiet. The tour went beyond remember the dread I felt, being on my A growing number of travel websites, history and delved into politics, religion own for the first time in a country where like www.withlocals.com are facilitating and ambitions, giving me insight on what few spoke English. This was long before peer-to-peer interactions by hooking it was to be a modern-day Egyptian. I was the days of the skytrain or metro, and up local hosts who do everything from able to move at my own pace, lingering in getting from Sukhumvit to the city center putting on a meal in their home to deserted corridors with ribbons of sunlight involved traveling by khlong (canal) boats taking visitors around to their favorite streaming on millennia-old friezes. with multiple changes. places to teaching some sort of local So whether you’re the type that can Piers were marked in Thai only and I craft. It may not be as ‘authentic’ as make friends with anyone over a pint, or remember desperately trying to remember befriending a local on your own, but it’s a wallflower with your nose stuck in a landmarks at every change like a twisted a twist on the tour concept. guidebook, the next time you find yourself version of Hansel and Gretel so that I Oftentimes, though, just stepping out in a foreign land, why not try something could find my way back. After more than of your comfort zone leads to a pleasant different and open yourself up to more an hour in the heat, I was feeling pretty surprise. One time, I found myself in the “local” experiences?

67 POSTCARDS FROM VIETNAM ART Column

A professional artist and author of A Week in Hoi An, Bridget March specializes in urban landscapes and aims Saigon Symphony to reveal the hidden treasures of city life and small town cultures through her illustrations. Bridget is currently The soundtrack of our lives offering art classes and sketching tours in Hoi An until the summer. For more of Bridget's work including news of her upcoming book visit brushwithasia.blogspot.com. BY B r id g et M a c h illust r ation

On the day I took my first walk boomtowns in all of Asia. commences with its ringing of pneumatic down the streets of central Saigon, I Saigon has an energy I have never drills, clanging of scaffold poles and the instinctively felt that this was the beating encountered before. Someone once said roaring engines of big machinery. And so heart of Vietnam's burning ambitions. that you should “do something every the city sounds until after rush hour as Its sister, Hanoi, is more refined, day that scares you.” Saigon will provide the sun begins to go down. elegant and mysterious. She sits in the that daily 'scare' without even trying! If While the sun sets, the noise of the shade on sultry days to preserve her you have driven, cycled or just walked building sites subsides and we are left beauty and, like a Mandarin's daughter, its streets, you will know exactly what with the background accompaniment of she surrounds herself with the cultural I mean. motorbikes until the last late shift worker elite and the entire nation's most This city has a distinct sound – buzzes off into the distance. In the influential people. sometimes like jazz or rap, occasionally neighborhood, the swifts crackle as they Saigon, on the other hand, is a farmer's a concerto. In the early morning, an speed after flies just before dusk, and the son who has come to the city to make his almost inaudible chanting and a sigh of daily composition closes with the last fortune. He is working tirelessly to carve resonant bells awakens the suburbs and yowl of a distant cat being chased to bed his name in the 21st century. This boy is city cloisters. The chatter of city birds by a neighborhood dog. All that is left is easy to get along with and doesn't care and the echoing calls of rainforest species a rustling whisper of the bamboo on the who you are or where you are from – he are pierced by the occasional buzz of an last breath of breeze. just wants to know if you can help him early moped. The city center, of course, hardly build that brilliant future as quickly as is The next overtone is of warbling takes pause for breath. The farmer's humanly possible. bus horns and the gentle ting ting of son works hard and barely seems to The spirit of enterprise is almost neighbors clattering plates as they make sleep. Music winds its way out of city tangible in Saigon. Everyone is rushing breakfast. The volume gently builds as doorways, and conversations continue around, carrying, collecting, delivering, they shout goodbyes on their way to in the alleyways and emerge from the selling, buying, building, demolishing, school and work. Gradually, the hum of echoey interiors of balconied rooms shouting, waving, making, mending, traffic builds up in the distance and it above the streets. recycling, sweeping and, above all... comes rumbling slowly towards you like This enigmatic, exotic, energetic smiling and laughing. People who have a herd of buffalo until 7am, where it takes city gets under your skin, and its daily lived here over 10 years talk about residence as the backbeat to another hot, symphony is one of the most enduring how much the city has changed and busy day. At about the same hour, the memories you will carry with you grown. Today, it is one of the busiest thunderous percussion of construction always.

68 69 The List Travel & Leisure airlines Malaysia Airlines a side alley off CMT8 is quite deceiving. refrigerators are provided. 32-inch LED 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 285/7 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D 10 TVs are equipped with premium cable www.malaysiaairlines.com 0906699371 channels. All accommodations provide Air China desks, safes, and direct-dial phones. 7th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Qantas Airways Little Saigon Boutique Hotel 157 Pasteur, D3 Hue, D1 186 - 188 Le Thanh Ton, D1 01663221322 3823 3888 3910 5373 A small, value-for-money boutique www.airchina.com hotel with 18 air-conditioned, non- Ibis Hotel Saigon South Qatar smoking rooms, Little Saigon Boutique The 3-star Ibis Hotel Saigon South is Air France Suite 8, GF, Petro Vietnam Tower Hotel is an easy walk to Ben Thanh located in front of Saigon Exhibition and 130 Dong Khoi, D1 1-5 Le Duan St., room 4, Floor 8, AB tower, Market and other D1 sights. Hidden Convention Centre and only 15 minutes 3829 0981 away in a quiet back alley right in the from the city centre. It features 140 [email protected] Singapore Airlines central area. rooms with free Wifi internet access, a 36 Bis/2 Le Loi, D 1 restaurant/bar and 3 meeting rooms. www.airfrance.com.vn 29 Le Duan, D1 35218462 There is a free Ibis shuttle available to 3823 1588 and from the hotel to major corporate Asiana Airlines www.singaporeair.com 39 Le Duan, D1 THREE STAR offices and the city centre. 3822 2622 Thai 73 Hoang Van Thai, D7 A&EM Hotel - 8A Thai Van Lung www.ibis.com www.ea.flyasiana.com 29 Le Duan Blvd, D 1 Air Asia Turkish Local accommodation chain that aims Tan Hai Long Hotel & Spa- Nguyen An at the classy mid-level market; still Ninh No official office in Vietnam Sales office in Vietnam budget, but with a touch of dignity www.airasia.com 76 Le Lai St., room 4, Floor 8, AB tower, D1 about it. 3 star hotel and spa located in the heart Address of sales office: Noibai Airport, 8A/1D2 Thai Van Lung, D 1 of Ho Chi Minh city with 160 rooms and Terminal 1, International Departure Hall, United Airlines 38224495 suites, also providing professional spa 3rd Floor, Ha Noi Unit 708, 7th Floor, Sun Wah Tower, 115 services by skillful and experienced Website of agent: www.airasia.biz.vn Nguyen Hue, D1 Bizu Boutique Hotel Phu My Hung staff Phone: 04.37478953 www.united.com The hotel’s 24 guestrooms are all 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, D 1 95G - Ly Nam De - Phuong Cua Dong - designed with guests’ comfort in mind, 38272738 Quan Hoan Kiem - Ha Noi Vietnam Airlines featuring wireless Internet access along Tel: (04).37478953 16F Sunwah Tower , 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 with all the basic facilities. Other features FOUR STAR www.vietnamairlines.com.vn Cathay Pacific Airlines at the hotel include a restaurant, billiards, karaoke, 24hr room service 24hr, an Hotel Continental Saigon R502, 5th floor, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Vietjet elevator, laundry service/dry cleaning and Khai, Ward 6, D3 CT Plaza Building 8th Floor, 60 Truong Son meeting facilities. One of Saigon’s oldest hotels, most 3822 3203 St., Tan Binh Dist., HCMC 15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, D7 graceful colonial properties, and historic sgn#[email protected] 84 8 35471866 / Hotline: 1900 1886 5411 1008 places to stay, it is perhaps most www.cathaypacific.com www.vietjetair.com famous as the location where much of China Southern Blue Diamond Hotel Graham Greene’s The Quiet American hotels was written in room 214. 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A cut above the multiple nearby 2-star 132-134 Dong Khoi, D 1 3829 6800 HO CHI MINH CITY properties, this hotel has been officially 38299201 [email protected] recognized for its quality décor and www.continentalsaigon.com www.csair.com TWO STAR service, including high accolades in Kimdo Royal City Hotel Emirates international publications. Bali Hotel 48-50 Thu Khoa Huan, D 1 15 Nguyen Hue, 14th Floor, Dist.1, HCMC 38236167 Nestled in amongst the commercial Email: [email protected] Ideally-located for attendees to buildings at the top of District One’s 39113099 any exhibitions held at the Saigon Bong Sen Hotel central business strip, the posh-looking www.emirates.com/vn Exhibition and Convention Centre, Bali Kimdo is right in the heart of the Boutique is flash and modern in style - Located in the heart of D 1, The administrative, business, shopping, and Etihad with a little touch of the plush thrown in Bong Sen Hotel offers luxurious entertainment district. etihadairways.com for good measure. accommodation for guests who wish to 133 Nguyen Hue, D 1 39 - 41 Hung Phuoc Villas, D 7 relax or get a little work done. 38225914 EVA Airlines 54104747 117-123 Dong Khoi, D 1 www.kimdohotel.com 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D1 38291516 3822 4488 Calmette Hotel www.bongsenhotel.com Liberty Central Hotel www.evaair.com Charming hotel on one of the most Boutique Garden Hotel Liberty Central has a very prominent JAL Japan Airlines attractively-named streets in the city, Newly opened in 2012 and conveniently brand and is a particularly stylish, eye- 4F Hotel Nikko Saigon, 235 Nguyen Van although slightly out-of-the-way. located close to Phu My Hung, FV catching property right in the centre of Cu, Nguyen Cu Trinh, D 1 Quality, elegant furnishings and modern Hospital and Tam Duc Hospital, guests the tourist district. 3830 6231 amenities. can choose from 20 rooms. 179 Le Thanh Ton, D 1 151 Calmette, D 1 R3-84 Hung Phuoc 3, D7 38239269 Jetstar 39144951 5410 5941 www.libertycentralhotel.com 112 Hong Ha, Ward 2, Tan Binh Dist., HCMC Tel. 08 38450092 Cat Huy Hotel Catina Saigon Norfolk Hotel [email protected] www.jetstar.com Cat Huy is the best-kept secret of Hotel Catina Saigon provides 3 star Chic, warm exterior with boutique the backpacker district, located in a accommodation in large, boutique charms within, this property is an ideal Korean Air peaceful and very local-looking alley rooms that include free, high-speed escape for business travellers from the Unit 909, Floor 9, Diamond Plaza, 34 Le close to the downtown area of Ho Chi internet access and city views. plasticity of chain hotels. Duan, D1 Minh City, but culturally part of deep 109 Dong Khoi, D 1 117 Le Thanh Ton, D 1 te x pats 3824 2878 suburban Saigon. 38296296 38293415 www.korean-air.vn 353/28, Pham Ngu Lao, D 1 www.norfolkhotel.com.vn 39208717 EMM Hotel Saigon Lufthansa Novotel Saigon Centre 14th Floor, Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Ken Hotel The 56 air-conditioned guestrooms Hue, D1 at EMM Hotel Saigon include laptop- One of HCMC’s newest hotels, Novotel 3829 8529 A surprisingly well-designed hotel, this compatible safes and minibars. is located on busy Hai Ba Trung St, just [email protected] budget establishment looks anything Complimentary wireless and wired within walking distance of downtown but from within, although the location in www.lufthansa.com high-speed Internet access and in-room attractions. It’s everything you’d expect A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013

70 from the international brand with Lotte Legend Hotel Saigon Saigon’s business and entertainment area. Con Dao has been built with the 24-seven guest services and a broad district. The hotel's 336 rooms and very lightest ecological footprint, with dining offer. Classic hotel offering 5 star amenities suites offer an incredible view of the villas set up along a mile of sandy 167 Hai Ba Trung, D 1 along with a scenic view of the Saigon Saigon River as well as over the city. beach, sheltered by the green forested 38224866 River, and providing a unique culinary Each guest room is designed and hills behind and with stunning vistas www.novotel.com experience with many options for fine furnished with discerning business of the deep blue sea and the curve of dining. and leisure travelers in mind. Choose the bay. Oscar Saigon Hotel 2A-4A Ton Duc Thang, D 1 a deluxe room or suite with large desk Dat Doc Beach, Con Dao, Con Son 38233333 and ample lighting, in-room coffee and 06 4383 1222 French colonial hotel in District 1 www.legendsaigon.com tea service, high speed internet, safe, offering stunning panoramic views and well-stocked mini-bar as well as the jack DALAT 4 star amenities. Majestic Saigon bag (connectivity kit). 68A Nguyen Hue, D 1 8-15 Ton Duc Thang, D1 Ana Mandara Villas Dalat www.oscar-saigonhotel.com One of HCMC’s oldest and most 3822 0033 Palace Hotel Saigon characteristic hotels, the Majestic on www.marriott.com/hotels/travel/sgnbr- Ana Mandara Villas Dalat comprises the Saigon River with its grand French renaissance-riverside-hotel-saigon seventeen restored French-style villas architecture is just a few steps away from the 1920's and 1930's, preserving One of the tidier properties of its class from Saigon’s premiere attractions. Rex Hotel Saigon the original design, décor and charm, is within the vicinity, with 144 deluxe guest 01 Dong Khoi, D 1 and set in the cool climate of the rural rooms of contemporary design well- 38295517 Rex Hotel has consistently won awards highlands of Central Vietnam. Striking equipped with modern facilities. www.majesticsaigon.com.vn for being one of the best hotels in views of the surrounding town and 56-66 Nguyen Hue, D 1 Asia. Impeccable dining options, great countryside abound from all areas of www.palacesaigon.com Moevenpick Hotel Saigon location, and 5 star amenities make this the gently sloping hillside property. recently refurbished hotel a preferred Le Lai, Phuong 5, Dalat Park Royal Saigon Hotel An international hotel chain with Swiss destination for travellers with generous 06 3355 5888 roots, this comfortable hotel caters to budgets. Park Royal Saigon Hotel is an ideally both businesspeople and families with Blue Moon Hotel & Spa 141, Nguyen Hue, Ben Nghe, D 1 placed conference hotel which caters fine dining options, a fitness centre, and 38292185 to all MICE needs. The hotel offers a multiple conference rooms. Located in the heart of breathtaking Dalat, www.rexhotelvietnam.com wide array of banquet services and can 253 Nguyen Van Troi Apartments, Phu the Blue Moon Resort & Spa is designed accommodate 30 to 300 guests. Nhuan to complement the natural beauty of the Saigon Domaine Luxury Residences 309B-311 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh 38449222 "City of Eternal Spring.” Built opposite Oi’s Pick www.parkroyalhotels.com www.moevenpick-hotels.com the popular and tranquil Xuan Huong High-class getaway hotel located Lake, Blue Moon is centrally located and Thao Dien Boutique Hotel out of the city centre on exotic Thanh New World Saigon Hotel convenient to Dalat's eating, shopping Oi’s Pick Da Island, allowing guests to escape and entertainment spots.Much more Set in a secluded, verdant garden One of the most impressive business from the chaos of the city life while than just a comfortable night’s sleep, occupying 1.2 hectares along the Saigon hotels in Ho Chi Minh City, with remaining close to the action. Blue Moon Resort & Spa invites you to River, Thao Dien village is a tropical stunning views and 5 star amenities. More hotel than apartment complex, experience true hospitality. hideaway that’s just 20 minutes from 533 luxury rooms and suites offering The Domaine’s private residences are 4 Phan Boi Chau, Dalat 67, Vietnam the city centre. the perfect ambience for concentrated classic and luxurious, making the most www.bluemoonhotel.com.vn/bluemoon2 195 -197 Nguyen Van Huong, D 2 work and undisturbed relaxation. of the natural surroundings. 37442222 76 Le Lai, D 1 1057 Binh Quoi, Binh Thanh Dalat Green City Hotel Oi’s Pick www.thaodienvillage.com 38228888 35561145 Budget hotel in the center of Dalat. Five [email protected] www.saigondomaine.com minutes from most major attractions in FIVE STAR www.saigon.newworldhotels.com Sheraton Saigon Hotel And Towers Dalat. Quiet. Newly refurbished. Beautiful Caravelle Hotel Nikko Saigon mountain and city views from the rooftop. Features free WIFI, TV, snack bar in all Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh rooms. Coffee shop downstairs. Airport Part of the city’s modern history since One of the city’s newest City vibrant business and entertainment pickup by private car. Motorbike rental. 1959, few properties in Saigon are quite accommodation jewels, this lavish hotel district, Sheraton Saigon Hotel & Towers Tour information. Laundry. Computers in as iconic. A major center for foreign is designed to make the maximum is a 5 star haven of convenience, lobby for public use. correspondents during the war, it has impression of austere Japanese-style connecting guests with colleagues and 172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat emerged as a plush and vibrant luxury class from the lobby upwards. This is friends. (063) 3827 999 hotel in the present era. one of the most luxurious hotels in 88 Dong Khoi, D 1 www.dalatgreencityhotel.com Caravelle Hotel is one of the city’s HCMC, with classic, precise and elegant classiest icons and represents a true decor. 38272828 Dalat Train Villa & Cafe Oi’s Pick slice of Saigon’s history while remaining 235 Nguyen Van Cu, D 1 [email protected] Located near the Dalat Train Station, the one of its most luxurious places to stay. 39257777 Dalat Train Villa is for short or long staying 19 Lam Son Square, D 1 www.hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn Sofitel Saigon Plaza Hotel 38234999 guests. The villa is a restored 2-story www.caravellehotel.com Park Hyatt Saigon The Sofitel Saigon Plaza is located French colonial-era villa. Next to the villa in the city center, in the heart of the is a French train car, which has been Equatorial Ho Chi Minh City Without a doubt the city’s most business district and close to Notre renovated into a bar/cafe/restaurant. luxurious hotel, Park Hyatt Saigon Dame Cathedral and Reunification Romantic venue. From the lake, take first An international hotel located where the features French colonial inspired Palace. 275 elegant rooms and 11 suites, left after Dalat Train Station. borders of the city’s four main districts rooms, two award-winning restaurants, a swimming pool, and a fitness center. 1 Quang Trung St, Ward 9, Villa #3 meet. The city’s major commercial and an outdoor pool and a stylish 17 Le Duan, D 1 (063) 381 6365 or 090 334 2442 entertainment area is only an 8-minute contemporary bar. The exterior is the 38241555 www.dalattrainvilla.com drive away. result of meticulous research into the [email protected] 242 Tran Binh Trong, D 5 colonial architecture of the region. www.sofitel.com/gb/hotel-2077-sofitel- Sofitel Dalat Palace 38397777 2 Lam Son Square, D 1 saigon-plaza/index.shtml www.equatorial.com/hcm 38241234 Hotel Sofitel Dalat Palace is one of the www.saigon.park.hyatt.com Windsor Plaza most beautiful and amongst the few InterContinental Asiana Saigon remaining historical hotels in Southeast Asia. Built in 1922 and meticulously Oi’s Pick Pullman Located in the heritage area of old Located in the heart of Ho Chi Minh restored in 1995 to its original grandeur, Cholon, the Windsor offers authentic City, the InterContinental Asiana the Sofitel Dalat Palace offers The 306-room hotel features a Vietnamese and Chinese hospitality Saigon is dedicated to providing individualized service in the finest contemporary design, a wide range of with a mix of commercial, cultural, and local, authentic, and enriching travel technological facilities, four bars and tradition of Vietnamese hospitality. retail experiences - and they put on a experiences. Decorated in tasteful restaurants and five meeting venues. 12 Tran Phu, Dalat fine buffet. oriental flair, the hotel is dedicated to Offers signature services including 06 3382 5444 18 An Duong Vuong, D 5 representing the charms of Asia and Welcomer, optimal connectivity with the [email protected] www.windsorplazahotel.com evokes the mystique of this beautiful Connectivity by Pullman concept (free continent and its cultures. Right next to high-speed wifi throughout the hotel, DANANG te x pats Saigon’s key landmarks, this hotel is Quadriga’s Personal Media Network CON DAO ISLAND ideally placed for high-class travellers mobile application), the Co-Meeting Furama Resort Danang and groups seeking a high standard of offer for business event and functions Six Senses Con Dao accommodation. Full MICE areas and and Fit and Spa Lounge by Pullman. The Furama Resort enjoys a stunning facilities are on-site. 148 Tran Hung Dao, D1 True to the Six Senses philosophy beachfront location on one of Vietnam’s Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 of selecting remote (but accessible) finest beaches, fringed by natural pines 3520 9999 Renaissance Riverside Hotel destinations in areas of outstanding and coconut palms. Two four-storey [email protected] natural beauty, Con Dao is an wings overlook the ocean on one side www.intercontinental.com/saigon untouched and breathtakingly beautiful ©2013 A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013 A five-star hotel located in the heart of and a freshwater swimming

71 lagoon and manicured tropical gardens perfect balance between tranquillity and Pilgrimage Village conveniences to every guest. on the others. convenience. Km9 Nguyen Thong Road, Phan Thiet Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi Pilgrimage Village offers the harmony www.sealinkscity.com 051 1384 7333 04 3719 9000 of a soothing natural environment 039304083 and fascinating local culture. Delicious Fusion Maia The Sofitel Legend Metropole Hanoi meals, sound sleep, and the peaceful The Cliff Resort and Residences Oi’s Pick life of the quiet countryside refresh the Offers 128 rooms equipped with a myriad It is the first all-pool villa- style resort Features include 364 rooms and spirit. of amenities such as 3D smart TV, safe in the destination and offers 87 pool suites, excellent French cuisine at Le 130 Minh Mang, Truong An, Hue and mini bar as well as private bathroom. suites, spa villas, and beach villas Beaulieu, Vietnamese specialities at 05 4388 5461 It boasts an extensive lap pool, a kid’s pool each with modern, open-plan living Spices Garden, and Angelina - Hanoi's and pool bar as well as submerged on and private courtyard with swimming most ""avant garde"" Italian Restaurant NHA TRANG deck swimming pool chairs. Its restaurant pool. Customize-your-stay options and & Lounge. Seven function rooms, a serves a selection of local seafood specialties and Western cuisine. breakfast available at multiple locations swimming pool, fitness centre and the Evason Ana Mandara Zone 5, Phu Hai Ward, Phan Thiet are a few of the surprising offers in Le Spa du Metropole are also available www.thecliffresort-binhthuan.com store. in the hotel. The exclusive location affords city- 0623719111 Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi centre access to Nha Trang’s only 051 1396 7999 04 3826 6919 beachfront resort. It is surrounded The Sailing Beach Resort by private tropical gardens, offering [email protected] Offers a contemporary setting in sensual Life Resort Danang simplicity, serenity and refinement tropical harmony that befits its bay host. together with spectacular views of Nha HOI AN All 192 rooms, with spacious private A pair of four-storey hotel blocks house Trang Bay. Unforgettable incentive balconies affording stunning ocean views, most of the resort's rooms, with villas experience. Life Heritage Resort Hoi An are scattered across tropical vegetation, flanking one side of a long pool corridor Beachside Tran Phu Boulevard, Nha Trang ponds and rests steps from an endless splicing the middle of the resort. 05 8352 2222 Rooms are designed along Japanese beach. Truong Sa, Ngu Hanh Son, Danang themes, each having a personal porch 107 Ho Xuan Huong, Phan Thiet 051 1395 8888 Six Senses Ninh Van Bay with couches for reading and relaxing. www.thesailingbay.com Spacious bathrooms feature stand- The resort is one of Asia’s most HALONG BAY alone showers or recessed baths, and WindFlower Beach Boutique Hotel exclusive and intimate beach escapes, many bathrooms enjoy views of a Located in the resort capital of Vietnam sitting on dramatic Ninh Van Bay, Novotel Halong Bay private garden. – Mui Ne Bay, WindFlower Beach with its impressive rock formations 1 Pham Hong Thai. Hoi An Town, Quang Boutique Hotel offers an intimate overlooking the South China Sea, white A glimpse into contemporary Vietnam Nam setting for guests to enjoy a getaway sand beach and towering mountains with echoes of the country’s intricate 051 0391 4555 on the beach to its fullest. The hotel is behind. past through its elegant interior décor. home to 24 cozy deluxe rooms with Ninh Van, Khanh Hoa Sturdy polished stone, glass and The Nam Hai services and sophistication that are marble stand against the delicate 05 8372 8222 expected from a beach boutique hotel. Asian textures of silk, wickerwork and A stunning all-villa resort located on the 76 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui Ne carved wood. With sweeping windows Sheraton Nha Trang pristine China Beach featuring 60 one- (Vietnamese) (06) 2374 3969 / (English) and large mirrors, the hotel captures bedroom retreats as well as 40 privately- 090 291 3969 panoramic views of Halong Bay and its Sheraton Nha Trang Hotel & Spa offers owned two-to-five bedroom residences www.windflowermuine.com spectacular seascapes at every turn. ten categories of accommodation – each with a private infinity pool. Ha Long Road, Bai Chay Ward, Ha Long City from spacious, deluxe rooms to 70m2 Hamlet 1 Dien Duong Village, Dien Ban, PHU QUOC ISLAND 03 3384 8108 executive suites and a huge presidential Quang Nam [email protected] suite. With exemplary conference Chen Sea Resort & Spa 051 0394 0000 facilities, this is the number-one MICE TUAN CHAU RESORT resort in the region. Located in a quiet bay, this resort Boutique Hoi An Resort Oi’s Pick 26-28 Tran Phu, Nha Trang allows guests to enjoy the peace and Boutique Hoi An Resort offers 82 Tuan Chau Resort is constructed in the 05 8388 0000 natural beauty of Phu Quoc while also rooms and villas, with all rooms facing style of classical French and modern enjoying the exclusive atmosphere that the sea with private balconies. Other Vietnamese architecture. This is the PHAN THIET the location suggests and the resort facilities include spa with 3 treatment ideal place to find white sands, blue offers. rooms and 5 massage pavilions, fully- Anantara Mui Ne Resort & Spa ocean, and the rejuvenative energy of Bai Xep, Phu Quoc the Vietnamese tropical sun. equipped gym, restaurant, lobby lounge 07 7399 5895 and pool bar and conference facilities The new face of the former l’Anmien, Tuan Chau Island, Ha Long City accommodating 80 guests for dinner this resort offers an exclusive haven of Saigon Phu Quoc Resort HANOI functions and 130 guests for cocktail luxury and relaxation in a spectacular parties. beachfront location right in the heart of Located on a hill of coconut palm trees, Mui Ne. The only property in the Mui Ne Hilton Hanoi Opera Group 6, Block Tan Thinh, Ward Cam An, Saigon Phu Quoc is a beautiful, quiet Hoi An City district with full conferencing facilities seaside resort with plenty of sunshine. and a range of exclusive villas – and it This landmark of Hanoi was inspired www.boutiquehoianresort.com Just 10 minutes from the airport, the resort has an impressive wine cellar. by the famous Opera House located is an ideal haven for relaxing, fishing, Mui Ne nearby. A hotel of great beauty and HUE trekking, snorkeling, and scuba diving. 62 Tran Hung Dao, Phu Quoc luxury, the Hilton stands in the city’s Princess d’Annam fashionable and elegant French Ana Mandara Hue 07 7384 6999 Quarter, and is within close range of The two Empress Suites are the La Veranda the charming Old Quarter and bustling Located a scenic 15km drive from central Hue, this is spacious resort with pinnacle of luxury accommodation in Business District. Vietnam – they are mini millionaire’s the largest villas and rooms in the area. The most distinguished of Phu Quoc 1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi mansions in themselves, fully-equipped, The property includes private pool villas, Island's hotels and guesthouses, La 04 3933 0500 bright and spacious, and possessing of beach villas, duplex and deluxe rooms Veranda sports paddle fans, butter- the same ethereal design quality that in a wide range of styles and decor yellow exteriors, whitewashed louvers, Intercontinental Westlake pervades this whole resort. Set in the designed with complete and modern and tropical gardens recalling a colonial remote Ke Ga Bay, wordlessly beautiful. facilities. plantation. Freestanding deluxe villas Superbly situated on the serene waters Hon Lan, Binh Thuan are notable for their sea-facing porches, An Hai Village, Thuan An Town, Hue Phu of Hanoi’s West Lake and adjacent 06 2368 2222 spacious bathrooms, and cathedral Vang to the famous 800-year-old Golden ceilings. 05 4398 3333 Lotus (Kim Lien) Pagoda. Conveniently Muine Bay Resort Tran Hung Dao, Duong Dong Beach, Phu located and yet able to offer a retreat Located in the Mui Ne Bay and Quoc La Residence Hotel & Spa from the hustle and bustle of downtown overlooking the Hon Lao pristine island 07 7398 2988 Hanoi, the combination of spacious of blue sea, Muine Bay Resort includes luxurious accommodations, facilities, This former French Governor’s 103 rooms in 4-stars standard of which 32 Paris Beach Resort Oi’s Pick and attentive Vietnamese hospitality residence dates to 1930 and is a bungalows designed and inspired by the Owned and managed by a friendly and make this the perfect place to stay masterpiece of art deco design. Its Cham Tower. hospitable French-Vietnamese woman for both the corporate and leisure incredible location overlooking the Khu pho 14, Mui Ne Ward , Phan Thiet and her French husband, the resort is traveler. Citadel and the Perfume River brings www.muinebayresort.com located about a 15-minute taxi ride from te x pats 1a Nghi Tam Tay Ho, Hanoi this 122-room hotel a total and serene 0622220222 the airport. It has an outdoor swimming 04 6270 8888 tranquillity. The hotel features a 40m pool, a private beachfront, recreation room, outdoor salt swimming pool at river Sea Links Beach Hotel bicycles and a restaurant serving local and Sheraton Hanoi height giving the illusion of merging Located within the Sea Links City French food. Each room or bungalow has into the Perfume River. Ideal for complex resort, Sea Links Beach Hotel air conditioning, a mini bar, cable TV and Perfectly located by the shores of the executive retreats and exotic incentives offers 188 elegant rooms and suites, four free Wi-Fi. They also offer tours around largest lake in Hanoi and surrounded programmes. palatial-sized pools, restaurants and bars, the island. by a beautifully landscaped garden 5 Le Loi, Hue spa, recreational amenities and the largest Cua Lap, Duong To, Phu Quoc

and courtyard, the hotel provides the 05 4383 7475 meeting facilities providing modern www.phuquocparisbeach.com A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013

72 QUY NHON views of the stunning surroundings. Each Norfolk Mansion 8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1 apartment comes with a fully-equipped A comfortable serviced luxury 3822 8899 Life Wellness Resort Quy Nhon kitchen, en-suite bathrooms, separate apartment in the city center, the Norfolk www.somerset.com/vietnam work and living areas. Each lavish features an outdoor pool, gym & sauna, A hide-away style spa and beach space features plush interiors, modern and high-class Cantonese restaurant. Somerset Chancellor Court destination set in 13.5 hectares of amenities, elegant furnishings and 17-19-21, Ly Tu Trong, D 1 Each of these 172 spacious serviced private mountainous land and beach. carefully chosen trimmings and fixtures, apartments in District 1 is fully- The tranquillity, splendid views, Cham- creating a luxurious harmony of comfort Riverside Apts furnished with an open kitchen inspired architecture and surroundings andtranquility that will have you relaxed Overlooking the Saigon River, the concept, contemporary western style are so far unmatched in Vietnam. . and recharged, and functioning at peak compound offers short and long term décor, and a large balcony. Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, Quy Nhon, performance. leases. 53 Vo Truong Toan, D2 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D 1 Binh Dinh No 01 – Street No.104-BTT, Quarter 3, Binh www.riverside-apartments.com 38229197 Bai Tram Resort and Spa Trung Tay Ward, D2 096 829 3388 / 3742 5678 River Garden Apartment Somerset Vista Ho Chi Minh City www.the-ascott.com It has an extensive array of modern Bai Tram is based on holistic ideals and It is located within a 15-minute drive of facilities and provides convenient the search for environmental balance downtown and provides its occupants Garden Court access to a hypermarket, international embodying the trend towards seeing with stunning views of the Saigon River Completed in 2009, Garden Court is a schools, a medical clinic, retail outlets ourselves, the natural world, and the luxury apartment building located close in a resort type of environment. man-made environment as one. 170 Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 and offices. to schools, supermarkets and shopping 628C Hanoi Highway, D2 Hoa Loi, Xuan Canh, Song Cau, Phu Yen centers and a golf course. 6255 9900 05 7372 2563 Garden Court,Ton Dat Tien, D7 Saigon Court Since its opening in 1998, Saigon Court www.somerset.com/vietnam VUNG TAU Glenwood Serviced Apartment has become well-known amongst the The Crescent A very modern property, located in expatriate community for exceptional The Crescent is located along the The Grand-Ho Tram Strip the heart of the expatriate's residential standards of service. This 12 storey Crescent Lake in the heart of Phu My The Grand - Ho Tram Strip is Vietnam's area, steps away from Int'l schools and building is among the highest in the Hung New City Centre, offering an first largest integrated resort and supermarket. area, offering its tenants commanding exclusive high-class lifestyle for locals ultimately will include an 1,100-room 248A Nguyen Van Huong, D2 views of other parts of the city. and expats. This area consists of a five-star hotel, a world-class casino, 0944 168 568 149 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D 3 restaurants, high-tech meeting space, variety of green parks, restaurants, an exclusive VIP area, as well as Hung Vuong Plaza Apartment Saigon Pearl Apartment luxury apartments, retail shops and a variety of beach-front recreation Huong Vuong Plaza apartments above Ho Chi Minh City’s largest five star entertainment venues. activities. The first 541-room tower of the D5 Parkson are comprised of two apartment complex, Saigon Pearl 101 Ton Dat Tien, D7 this development opened in July 2013 29 floor buildings with many luxurious comprises six 37-story residential with its casino including 90 live tables apartments in bustling Cho Lon. towers located on the banks of the The Landmark and 614 electronic game positions. The 126 Hong Bang, D 5 Saigon River in Binh Than District, The Landmark features serviced second 559-room tower is on track to about five minutes by taxi from apartments, offices, luxury dining, sports open in 2015. InterContinental Asiana Saigon downtown. Pool, gym, supermarket and clubs, swimming pool at the rooftop Phuoc Thuan Commune, Xuyen Moc Residences dining facilities all on site. of the building with great views of the District It’s a 31-floor tower with 260 rooms; the 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh Saigon River. It offers one bedroom, two Tel: (64) 3788 888 Residences offers superb panoramic bedroom and three bedroom units for www.thegrandhotramstrip.com views of downtown area and is part of Saigon Skygarden rent. Amenities offered include wireless the Kumho Asiana Plaza - the city’s A 15-storey building located in the broadband Internet access, 100 percent serviced apartments finest integrated complex featuring Saigonese Little Tokyo on Le Thanh power backup, room service, maid commercial, hotel, residential and Ton, offering 172 international-standard service and laundry, 24-hour reception Avila Serviced Apartment a diverse choice of wining and Serviced Apartments for lease. and airport shuttle service. dining outlets. They will also benefit 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 These serviced apartments combine 20 Le Thanh Ton, D 1 from the preferred amenities at the www.thelandmarkvietnam.com an excellent location with luxurious InterContinental Asiana Saigon next amenities. Saigon View Residences door. Villa Song Saigon 20-20bis Thi Sach, D 1 Saigon View Residences offer a range Corner of Le Van Huu & Nguyen Du of Deluxe, Superior, and Executive Colonial-style, boutique apartments Bella Serviced Apartments 3520 8888 room types in distinctive one and two characterised by solid hardwood flooring and an outdoor swimming pool Affordable, classy apartment living in Jasmine Court Serviced Apartment bedroom apartments. a tidy alleyway residence styled with 117, Nguyen Cuu Van, Binh Thanh ensconced by verdant gardens. white classical flourishes. Facilities A boutique property with only 12 197/2, Nguyen Van Huong, Thao Dien, D2 include a small but well-equipped gym apartments, comprised of one and Sedona Suites on the top floor and pleasant terraces two-bedroom suites of various sizes. With a fantastic location in District V-Star Apartment All apartments are designed in a fresh on front-facing apartments. 1 and rooms offering all of the Good proximity to the Saigon River contemporary style and finished in a 56/4 Nguyen Thong, D3 comforts of home, this award winning and FV International Hospital, as well pleasing neutral colour scheme. serviced apartment complex caters to as international schools and the Tan 307/29 Nguyen Van Troi, Tan Binh Cantavil Daewon Apartment businessmen and families alike. Thuan export zone. High-luxury complex with libraries, 65 Le Loi, D 1 Go O Moi, Phu Thuan, D 7 research center, and cultural Lancaster Serviced Apartments 37733151 information center on site. Also Lancaster Serviced Apartments Le Sherwood Residence Thanh Ton enjoys a commanding features an outdoor swimming pool. Serviced apartments available for position over the nightlife, culture, and travel agencies One of the most luxurious towers in the short or long term bookings, located business hub of Ho Chi Minh City, central area. in Pasteur, within walking distance 600A Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh offering a sweeping panoramic view Asiana Travel Mate of the city skyline from virtually every of downtown Ho Chi Minh City, Offering tours to magnificent scenic Central Garden Apartment window. international schools, shopping centres, etc. Pool, sauna, gym, mini-cinema areas in Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, These luxurious apartments offer 22 Bis Le Thanh Ton, D 1 onsite. Indonesia, and India - the firm has stunning views of downtown The Landmark 127 Pasteur, D 3 strong purchasing power in these Saigon along with western style regions, allowing it to offer heavily The Landmark is a prestigious accommodations and excellent Sky Garden discounted rates. location. Clean, inner-city luxury development of residential Sky Garden is a huge complex of 92-96 Nguyen Hue, D1 compound close to the Ben Nghe River. accommodation and office space apartments including 42 buildings with 225 Ben Chuong Duong, D 1 situated in the heart of HCMC. The 16-storey complex, located on a prime more than 3,000 individual apartments Aquarius Booking Office City View waterfront site, was one of the first of set on 10.4 hectares. Aquarius is a domestic & international air ticketing agency committed Located in the prime business and its kind in the city. Sky Garden, Nguyen Van Linh, D7 to offering low-cost flights, travel residential district, only minutes away 5B Ton Duc Thang, D 1 by car from downtown area, City View 38222098 Somerset Ho Chi Minh City insurance, and accommodation. te x pats is the perfect place for home and/or Designed with families in mind, it 4th Floor, Yoco Building, 41 Nguyen Thi business in Ho Chi Minh City. Mai Ha Lan II Serviced Apartments provides relocating executives the Minh Khai, D1 12 Mac Dinh Chi, D 1 Mai Ha Lan II offers a sweeping space and security to build a warm panoramic view of the city skyline and comfortable home. Friendly staff Amazing Thailand Tourism Office Diamond Island Luxury Residences from virtually every window. It offers are always on hand to help with local Funded by the Thai tourism board, this Diamond Island Luxury Residences offers 33 luxurious and graciously furnished knowledge. You can join in a wide office is loaded up with travel resources 68 fully-furnished apartments, ranging apartments with studio and two range of social, cultural and lifestyle and advice for travellers to Thailand, an from two- to four-bedroom units with bedroom options. activities, especially designed to help invaluable source of help for travelers on their way to the land of smiles. ©2013 A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013 private balconies providing panoramic 8A/1C Thai Van Lung, D 1 you integrate into the local culture.

73 Travel resources and advice for cinemas & theatres DanCenter Saigon Swing Cats travelers to Thailand. A professionally run dance studio Saigon Swing Cats organizes dance 5th Floor, Empire Tower, 26-28 Ham with an international teaching team classes, workshops and events Nghi, D1 The Ballet and Symphony Orchestra offering over 70 classes per week at various venues around HCMC Buffalo Tours Ho Chi Minh City’s local classical and workshops for kids and adults of including restaurants, lounges and music venue with regular programs & all ages and abilities. Kids can start dance studios. Dance styles include A premium travel agency that helps performances. from age 4 with Dance Intro. Regular the Lindy, Shim Sham and Tranky Doo. travelers customize their itinerary and 212 Nguyen Trai, D1 classes offered for kids and teens in Petrohouse Tower- caffe molinari, destination packages. From corporate Sing & Dance, Jazz, Ballet, Tap, Hip 5 Le Duan, D1 to small tour packages available. Ben Thanh Theatre Hop, Break & Acro Dance. Adults 81 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Once the cultural center of District 1 of any age, size and ability are also Vietnam Cookery Centre Oi’s www.buffalotours.com.vn when it was built in 1995, this is a good welcomed. Come and try Ballet, Jazz, Pick Clé Voyages - Xuan Viet Travel air-conditioned theater for Vietnamese Hip Hop, Tap, Contemporary, Belly and A complete cookery center offering shows & cultural activities that can many more. hands-on classes. This culinary Xuan Viet Travel has been providing 53 Nguyen Dang Giai, D2 compound introduces visitors to travel services and advice for nearly accommodate over 1000 people. 3519 4490 / 3519 4340 Vietnamese cuisine. two decades. 6 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 www.dancentervn.com 26 Ly Tu Trong, 4th floor, Ste 45, D1 Unit 1105, Harbour View Tower, 35 Nguyen Hue, D1 CT Plaza Megastar This theater complex offers close Dat Nam Friendly Club VLS Vietnamese Language School Exotissimo Travel proximity to shops for shoppers and While it may ring of a bingo Imparting genuine fluency in association, this is a fairly well- Exotissimo Travel offers tours to Vietnam, many other attractions. Large cinema Vietnamese since 1994, VLS is one respected venue for entertainment and the region and the whole wide world ! complex on the 7th floor with 3D of the city’s best-organised and most cultural exchange amongst foreigners Local and regional tours theatres and VIP room. professional training centers devoted and entrepreneurs - a very casual for family and visitors are quick and easy Level 10, 60A Truong Son, Tan Binh to the Vietnamese language, with networking opportunity. to arrange, from standard to higher-end classes for all levels. Basement Level, 116 Nguyen Du, D1 versions. Less common Galaxy 4th floor, CMARD2 Building, requests are tailor-built for you by friendly Vietnamese cinema showing Hash House Harriers 45 Dinh Tien Hoang, D1 online operators and/or the pleasant international and domestic films. Combining beer and running, this District 2 location office. 116 Nguyen Du, D1 long-established club goes to various A District 1 presence will re-open soon. sports 41 Thao Dien, D2 Golden Dragon Water Puppet out of the city running areas to burn 3519 4111 Theater some calories. Departs from the Great World Pool www.exotissimo.com Caravelle Hotel every Sunday ay 2pm. Popular public pool known for its high Vietnamese water puppet show [email protected] www.saigonh3.com standard of cleanliness, this indoor with live Vietnamese traditional pool is shallow at both ends and deep music, this is an original performing Fiditour International Ladies of Vietnam in the middle to ensure safety for non- Fiditour offers a wide range of tours to art preserved and handed down for A women’s group that meets Thursday swimmers. the southeast Asian region, including nearly a thousand years. Daytime mornings for coffee from 10am- noon 600 Nguyen Pham Tuan, D6 unique cultural trips, adventure trips, performances by special arrangement. at Sherwood Residences- 1st floor beach holidays, cruises, and culinary 55B Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 (127 Pasteur, D3) Cost for coffee and Ky Dong Swimming Pool trips. snacks is VND130,000. Membership Great D3 outdoor family pool, ideal for is VND700,000 per year. 129 Nguyen Hue, D1 Ho Chi Minh Conservatory Of Music the kids. Open to all ladies One of three conservatories in 40 Ky Dong, D3 Ha Nguyen Vietnam, offering world class musical Specializes in providing tickets for Eva education and performances. Overland Club Lam Son Swimming Club Overland Club is a 100 percent Airlines, Qatar Airways, China Airlines, Concerts at the local Ho Chi Minh City Olympic-sized swimming pool with foreign-owned Japanese company Cathay Pacific, American Airlines, Music School. designated lanes (one exclusively that organizes cultural classes Singapore Air, Malaysia Airlines, 112 Nguyen Du, D1 for women) and a reputation for including pottery (from basic to Korean Airlines, Qantas Airways , cleanliness. intermediate level, as well as painting Lufthansa, United Airlines and many IDECAF Drama Theatre 242 Tran Binh Trong, D5 unglazed pottery) and cooking classes other international airlines. IDECAF is a theater holding French (Japanese and Vietnamese). 64B3 Xuan Thuy, D2 cultural exchanges as well as offering Lan Anh Swimming Club Pool 36bis Huynh Khuong Ninh, D1 Hoi An Express courses in French. There are various areas with different 31 Thai Van Lung, D1 depths from 1.4m to 2m, suitable Preferred by many five-star hotels Rubber Duckies Swim Program for adults. Swimming lessons are in Ho Chi Minh city such as Windsor Group swim lessons for children ages Le Thanh Theatre available at the club. Plaza Hotel, Duxton Hotel, Legend six months - four-years- ld. Parents and Experimental art space for dance and 291 Cach Mang Thang Tam, D3 Hotel Saigon, and Equatorial Hotel, children participate together in songs this privately owned travel agency exhibitions, with regular performances and safe water activities. Instruction is The Bike Shop offers a wide range of services. of leading-edge artistic theatre. focused on developing water safety The shop is a full service shop serving 94 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 25 Phan Phu Tien, D5 habits, basic water skills and confidence the local cycling community. They in the water. Classes are currently offer a huge selection of kids, BMX, Inside Asia Travel Saigon Opera House located in Districts 1, 2, and 7. For more urban, mountain & road bikes for all Inside Asia Travel is a boutique The Municipal Theater is a thriving details or to reserve a place contact levels of cyclists. Brands include: Trek, luxury travel provider of tailor made performance centre with regular Katie at admin@rubberduckiesvietnam. travel arrangements for English musical and cultural shows - com, Facebook @ Rubber Duckies Canondale, GT, Jett, Elite & J. Wolf Custom speaking expats and travelers predominantly of the classical, high- Vietnam, or call/text 0122 3922 550 bikes. They also stock a wide range of accessories and components from through Southeast Asia. Guests enjoy brow, and top-dollar variety. leading manufacturers, with a top-notch highly personalized, bespoke travel 7 Lam Son Square, D1 Saigon Cooking Class arrangements suited to individual service center and performs world class tastes and budget. The Soul of Vietnam Classes can include a market tour to bio-mechanical bike fittings.H ours: Tue-Fri 12-8, Sat-Sun 9-6, Closed Monday. www.insideasiatravel.com The Soul of Vietnam showcases buy the day's ingredients followed by 250 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 3844 1005 (Ext: 221) traditional Vietnamese music shows a hands-on cooking class, organized 3744 6405 with voice and traditional instruments. twice a day from Tuesday till Sunday Saigon River Tour facebook.com/thebikeshopVN Be sure to check out the three-part (US$39.50 to 45.50). Team building Established in 1998, Saigon River Tour Legend of the Trung Sisters’ with programs also available. provides speedboat services and Van Thanh Pool accompaniment of stone musical 74 Hai Ba Trung, D1 speedboat tours (ecotourism, Cu Chi A very casual swimming venue instruments, gongs and two lifelike Tunnels, Mekong Delta) from Bach Saigon School of Imaging favored by younger people and elephants. Dang Pier. Saigon School of Imaging runs recreational swimmers. 10b Ton Duc Thang, D1 7 Lam Son Square, D1 introductory to advanced photography, 48/10 Dien Bien Phu, Binh Thanh

Lightroom and Photoshop workshops in te x pats Viet Journey social clubs & classes Saigon. Courses typically run every two Yet Kieu Swimming Pool Viet Journey was founded by months on weekends at Saigon Hub in A long-standing swimming club that’s dedicated travelers of the southeast Brogolf Bar Wars D1. One-on-one, private become the standard for competition, Asian region, and they strive to Group of barflies who meet regularly small groups and custom clean water, and inexpensive prices, provide quality, time-efficient service for golf, open to new members. First workshops are also Yet Kieu is a well-managed complex for travelers from around the world. Saturday of each month, breakfast, available. of pools for the family - and it also has 18-19-20 Ton Duc Thang, D1 brunch, and 18 holes with a caddy. www.saigonimaging.com its own gym. 012 8569 8144 3823 7152 46-48 Ton That Thiep, D1 1 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013

74 Living

IMAGES BY KENT The Long Dress In honor of the Ao Dai Museum's recent opening in Ho Chi Minh City, this month's fashion spread combines the cultural importance of the ao dai with the beauty of haute couture.

75 76 77 78 Makeup: Dang Minh Dang Minh Makeup Academy

Model: Tra My First Runner Up of Vietnam's Next Top Model 2011 - Business Woman - My Communications

Costume : Tuan Hai

Photographer : Kent

Producer : Dang Minh - Hoang Dao

79 FEATURE

Living in the Past A 400-page book about the history of Ho Chi Minh City is about to launch. We speak to its author Text by michael arnold Image by Ngoc Tran

A short walk away from my own little everything’s in a state of flux,” he says. “The corner of suburban Cholon stands a gorgeous book was due to be released months ago, but old Chinese homestead. It’s not a tourist I’ve had to keep making changes as things attraction by any stretch of the imagination, get torn down. I haven’t received the second and it’s not easy to find; surrounded by an revision back from the publisher’s yet, but unkempt garden and fenced off from the already just in the last couple of weeks I’ve main road, there are no signs on the gate seen two more structures mentioned in the and not a clue as to what its significance is, book that are now building sites. So that’s who lived there, or how old it is. If it weren’t another couple of amendments to be made.” for its obvious historical value, it would It’s largely the rise of Ho Chi Minh City probably have been bulldozed decades ago in as an economic powerhouse that has been the course of the city’s relentless suburban the driving force behind its reinvention as sprawl – and without proper attention, that a modern metropolis, albeit at the cost of may indeed still happen. its own cultural heritage. This, however, So when the chance came to meet is not something Tim blames on urban historian Tim Doling, author of the planning. “You can’t actually blame anyone forthcoming book Exploring Ho Chi for knocking down old buildings if nobody Minh City, I decided to bring up this rather even knows they’re there,” he says. “The obscure property, hoping to learn just how real problem is that until now, no one has the average English-speaking person can find compiled a register of all the buildings out more about little-known local heritage and structures of historical value that are items like this one. still standing. This is something that local The short answer to that question seems to architects have been asking for some time be, “Ask Tim.” Rather impressively, not only – but unfortunately, you need some serious could he remember the exact address based resources to put a list like that together.” on a vague description of where it is; he could also tell me that as far as he’d managed to Unsung Architectural History represents his own efforts towards taking discover, it used to be a local administrator’s While the old administrator’s mansion in stock of this city’s unsung architectural residence, and that he’d often taken people Cholon seems safe for the time being, that’s history. At 400 pages of thoroughly- past it on his weekend tours through historic perhaps only because of the fact that it looks researched material, the book is possibly Chinatown. Tim Doling, it appears, is the like a heritage building. There are a great the first of its kind written about this town man to go to with any questions about the number of edifices in this city with a far in the English language. Far from being a history of this city related to the architectural more subtle cultural value (a rare flourish dry account of old homes and crumbling heritage of old Saigon – or at least, that in the eaves, for example, or because of the buildings, however, the narrative is laid out as which still exists to be appreciated and important historical figures who may once a set of manageable walking tours that guide enjoyed today. have lived there) and it’s these that are the curious readers past some of the city’s most While it’s often complained that most of most at risk of being torn down. In other fascinating secret places. It largely focuses the city’s old grace has vanished in a cloud instances, poor maintenance can necessitate on the central districts of old Saigon and the of construction dust and scooter exhaust, the removal of even the most beautiful Chinese settlements in Cholon, followed by Tim is adamant that there’s still a lot here structures for reasons of safety. Tim believes a sizeable section at the end looking farther to be witnessed for those with a discerning that this was the case with the three-arch afield. eye – although with accelerating municipal bridge that used to stand at the end of the old Much of Tim’s analysis is primary development, the longevity of such edifices Canal Brodard – once a noted landmark in research. “A lot of the places I mention in the remains uncertain. “One of the problems with the area, it was removed in 1990. book I discovered while wandering along doing research in a city of this kind is that One gets the feeling that Tim’s book the back streets, taking note of anything

80 that looked interesting,” he says. “One of Colonial Archives in Aix-en-Provence, as their adopted hometown, it’s the foreign the things that helps enormously in doing well as browsing the heritage books now tourists that seem to be the ultimate target of research here is that in most cases, while the available online at gallica.fr. his historical work. In essence, Tim seems to names of the streets have all changed, the If Tim has any concerns about the book’s believe that it’s promoting Saigon’s heritage original numbering has been preserved. If publication at all, it’s that it may well put as a tourist drawcard that stands the greatest you want to find out if anything important him out of his tour guide job. “Theoretically, chance of seeing administrative measures happened at any particular venue, all you anyone who has a copy of the book can taken to protect the vestiges of old Saigon. usually need to know is the current house be their own guide,” he says, a fact about “It’s usually only when an old building address and the old name of the street. You which he seems only mildly concerned. starts receiving interest from tourists that can then go and look it up to see what that “I’m semi-retired now. Originally, the tours people start to take measures to protect it,” building’s original purpose was.” were designed as a way to generate a little he says. “Right now, visitors don’t usually see Proper research on local history, of income. But ultimately, the point is to get the Ho Chi Minh City as a cultural center. With course, requires a grounding in Vietnamese information out there.” Some of the material a little more emphasis on preserving the past, and French, both languages in which Tim is already available, in fact, on Tim’s blog that may well change.” is proficient enough to hunt extensively at historicvietnam.com, which serves as an Keep an eye out for Exploring Ho Chi through old records. Much of the material appropriate teaser for the book’s content. Minh City at local bookstores soon. More he uses is available in the General Science While Tim admits that the tours and information about Tim Doling’s heritage tours Library’s old books collection, although he’s the book are most likely to appeal to expat (VND1 million per person) can be found at also devoted time to searching through the residents who want to know more about www.historicvietnam.com.

81 HIGHER LEARNING

Girls Will Be Girls Adrian Watts is the Deputy Headmaster and Director of Academic Studies at the International The pressures on girls in society and in school School of Ho Chi Minh City (ISHCMC)

“It’s pretty hard being a girl while at the same time facing an array this activity they unwittingly create nowadays. You can’t be too smart, too of sophisticated gender-specific issues, themselves as a brand – just like popular dumb, too ugly, too friendly, too coy, too leading to high levels of anxiety and celebrities but without the guidance of aggressive, too defenseless, too individual, depression. Girls are more likely to turn agents and managers. They start to live or too programmed. If you are too much inwards to solve their problems. in a cyber-bubble world, one that does of anything, then others envy you, or Technology has encouraged girls to not represent who they really are but, despise you because you intimidate them, become hyper-connected, giving great unfortunately, gradually dictates who they or make them jealous. It’s like you have importance to large social networks while appear to be. to be everything and nothing all at once, being disconnected from their real selves. It’s important for parents to realize without knowing which you need more Being constantly connected via Facebook, that just because their daughter has 250 of." − From a 12th Grader in the book MySpace or other social network sites has friends on Facebook, it doesn’t mean she Girls will be Girls. created a world in which young girls live really has any friends. One of the key Girls are, in general, out-performing like celebrities. They feel the necessity to areas that researchers have pointed out boys in school at all levels around the constantly update their profile, take photos is that having a few close female friends world. With increased gender equity, of themselves, and report their whereabouts is better than having the hundreds that girls today have more choices and to their friends and followers. They are, in the cyber bubble encourages. The core of opportunities than their mothers – reality, living in front of a crowd. Through a girl’s emotional life should preferably

82 EDUCATION Column

be founded on good friendships with on girls to achieve in an area where irrelevant in this regard, as girls care about two, three or four other girls. stereotyping of gender is still prevalent. the connection and will work hard so that For most girls studying in co-ed schools, they do not disappoint the teacher. Cyberbullying their role models for math and science are Girls are far greater users of social male, the scientists they learn about are Early Puberty networks and media than boys, and this predominantly male, and in higher-level Many girls’ lives are simply out of sync. exposes them to the insidious growth of classes the majority of their classmates are They’re being encouraged to grow up too cyberbullying. Girls aged 14-17 exchange male. Although this is changing and there quickly, and as a result are missing out on average over 100 messages a day. are more girls studying math and science on their childhood – and chemicals such The extent of social networking makes at universities and colleges today, the as BPA, PETE and phthalates found in it very difficult for anyone to escape. stereotyping still exists. our food and drink are all playing a part It is a constant barrage that can spread Programs that have been seen to in this. Research clearly shows that girls to thousands in seconds, with an effect develop self-esteem for girls in schools are are reaching puberty earlier. In the US, that cannot be erased. With media either mentoring, outward bound experiences, a girl who develops breasts at the age of directly or indirectly portraying models co-operative learning, and single gender seven is now considered normal, and half or images where denigration of others of all girls will develop breasts by their is normal, it’s hardly surprising that tenth birthday. This is a very important adolescents adopt similar behaviors. change, because completing puberty has The kind of community in which girls been shown to affect the mental agility of engage will shape the person that they children and slow down their potential to will become. This unfortunately includes learn new things. It also has a detrimental their social networking community as well, "The relationship effect upon how girls see their bodies, which is generally mostly ‘girl talk’, and between father and leading to sleeplessness and depression this can be imbalanced and become toxic – arising from low self-esteem. because many of the conversations center daughter has been Firstly, avoid exposing young girls to on their own personal problems. This type plastic containers and be vigilant about of co-rumination leads to increased anxiety shown to play an the sort of creams and lotions that they’re and can make problems feel worse. The putting on their skin. Secondly, engaging one community that helps this, however, important role in in regular exercise like swimming can bridges generations – girls need the puberty. Researchers protect against the early onset of puberty. opportunity to talk to adult women about Thirdly, the relationship between father the issues they are facing. This isn’t always don’t really know and daughter has been shown to play an going to be mother to daughter. However, important role in puberty. Researchers parents can ensure that their daughters why this is the case don’t really know why this is the case enter informal situations where they can – although there’s – although there’s a growing belief it’s interact with older female relatives or related to pheromones – but being a other potential female role models who can a growing belief it’s loving, caring dad who is affectionate provide a perspective that is seen as wise and gives hugs to his daughter will and appropriate. related to pheromones on average delay the onset of puberty. – but being a loving, Fourthly, to help avoid obsessive behavior, Self-Esteem parents can themselves model a life that At the center of much of the pressure that caring dad who is balances physical activity, work, creativity, is on girls today is the concept of self- and connectedness. Modeling is very esteem. JoAnn Deak, author of Girls will affectionate and gives important, and if parents make a tradition be Girls, identifies three key ingredients of volunteering or giving as a family at for self-esteem: competence, confidence hugs to his daughter least once a year, this will have a positive and connectedness. She argues that these will on average delay impact upon a girl’s image of herself. ingredients can’t be taught but need to be Finally, when the onset of puberty comes, experienced. They’re about emotions based the onset of puberty" it’s important that parents don’t back off – on doing, not reflecting about oneself or because it still remains the goal of parents having society or social networking and to help daughters find their true selves. the media dictate who one should be and I would like to conclude with this how one should behave. This is where quote from the book Girls on the Edge many girls’ self-esteem collapses, because by Dr. Leonard Sax, because I feel it they become egocentric and anxious, encapsulates the relationship that needs losing contact with the three ingredients classes or groupings for certain subjects to exist between parents and daughters they need to balance and maintain their and activities. Parents can certainly build if it is to be successful: “Ultimately only confidence in themselves. on these school-based initiatives by your daughter can be the captain of her This links to other areas of anxiety and encouraging their daughters to pursue own ship. But you [parents] can be the pressure on girls that exist in school, and interests that get them outside the home lighthouse, warning of unseen dangers. that is Mathematics and Science. One recent and interacting with nature. Parents need You can be the shipwright, helping to study showed a correlation between the to be careful, because it’s clear that you patch holes and make the ship stronger perception of mathematical ability and cannot just give your daughter self-esteem and better. And you can be the safe self-esteem in girls. Many universities are – that has to be built – but it’s equally harbor, welcoming the sailor home before positively influenced by a student’s ability clear that you can take it away by being she sets out on her next voyage.” in math and scores, regardless of the main too demanding and critical. Another subject of the application. Employment observation from research has been that The opinions expressed in this article are opportunities are growing fastest in subjects girls do better with teachers that truly care those of the author and do not necessarily related to math, and this places pressures about them and their progress. Gender is represent the views of Oi.

83 FEATURE

My Life as… a parking attendant Edited by Gerard Sasges ImageS by Ngoc Tran

Ladies and gentlemen, I would like was diagnosed with ovarian cancer. Because the motorbike parking business since 1996 to take this opportunity to welcome you I needed an operation, I was forced to when we started looking after customers’ to my family’s motorbike parking service. change my work assignment. So, in 1998, motorbikes for the vendors at the market Allow me to introduce myself, I’m Van, I became a cook in the factory’s cafeteria. beside Tool and Equipment Factory #1. After the chairperson of this ‘family economic I ended up working there until I was the market closed in 2002, we changed the cooperative.’ [Laughs] given early retirement in 2006. Since then, business model a bit. It’s based in our home I was born and raised in Nam Dinh. In I’ve worked all sorts of jobs. I was doing now and, since I’m ‘retired’, I’ve changed 1979, I graduated from high school. I was some odd jobs for Al Fresco’s (a chain of the availability and pricing options to a 24- 18. Next, I went to Thai Nguyen to study restaurants selling Western-style food) for hour, pay-by-the-month service. as a technical worker and, after three a couple of years before I gave myself a Honestly, though, I don’t do this because years, I was assigned to work in Tool and ‘second retirement’ [laughs] and started to I really want to. The income isn’t that great; Equipment Factory #1 where I worked as a work full-time running this parking service I get VND150,000 a bike each month, and highly-qualified turner. Things were fine, out of our home. the most I can really make a month is VND2 but suddenly everything changed when I Actually, my family’s been working in million because the space we’ve got can’t

84 hold more than 15 bikes. Also, the cost of the shop unattended. decided to join the business themselves. living goes up every day, so even if I could Yeah, some of the neighbors have Now they even try to compete with us. No, change my fees to account for rising prices, complained about the noise and the stench but in all honesty, the level of competition inflation would still make it hard for me to of gasoline during the night, but as time has isn’t that serious. It’s surprising, maybe, match income with costs. Obviously, VND2 but competition is actually decreasing. million isn’t enough to satisfy all of my Motorbike use is increasing quickly, and family’s needs. so is the demand for parking space. In our neighborhood alone, for example, there are Occupational Hazards "My job is more only four families who run parking services, Aside from not earning all that much and yet there are dozens of families and money, motorbike parking is a poisonous than just dangerous students living on the upper floors who and generally hazardous work for anyone. need somewhere to park their bikes. So Clearly, breathing gas fumes all day can’t though, it’s also essentially, as long as we’ve got space to be good for you, and gas is flammable so exhausting. You park, our customers are satisfied, not to fire is definitely a possibility too. And this mention that our family’s service is 100 is only one potential danger. There are have to be strong, percent wholehearted. lots of other workplace hazards like being No, I’m not concerned that we’re ever burned by hot exhaust pipes or getting both physically and going to run out of customers who need a crushed by a falling bike. place to park their bikes. But that doesn’t My job is more than just dangerous mentally, to arrange mean I want to be doing this forever. I only though, it’s also exhausting. You have to want to do it until my kids are grown and be strong, both physically and mentally, the motorbikes my family’s situation has improved, because to arrange the motorbikes so that you so that you can this job is dangerous and time consuming. can bring them in and out quickly and But for the time being, this is the work that efficiently. It gets particularly bad during bring them in and helps me support this family, so, from the rush hour, which happens twice a day, day bottom of my heart I’ll live up to our pledge in day out. During rush hour, I just get dizzy out quickly and to provide customers with “friendly, careful, and worn-out. The work pace is just so and conscientious service.” frenzied; I’m moving bikes around really fast efficiently" while more and more people arrive to check Additional contribution provided by Mai bikes in or out. Still, the most difficult aspect Lan, Mai Quang Huy, Colleen Ngoand of this job has to be the responsibility we Josh Mayhew. It's a Living: have to our customers, to remain open and passed, they’ve all learned to live with it. Work and Life in Vietnam available 24/7. Because of our 24/7 pledge, In fact, they can sympathize with us now, Today is available in paperback my family can’t ever really go out together primarily because more and more first-floor on Amazon or as an e-book on all at once. There’s just no way we can leave families in our apartment building have iTunes (scan code).

85 The List Education

2005 and applies 100 percent of thirty-three countries in a spacious six- kindergarten and pre-school education for education the Vietnamese national curriculum, hectare, well-equipped campus. children between 18 months and six years MOET, as well as providing students 78 Nguyen Duc Canh, D7 old. A fun and friendly environment, the SCHOOLS [children] with an intensive English program 5413 0901 school focuses on learning through play. along with teaching science and math www.ssis.edu.vn 1172 Thao Dien Compound, D2 ABC International School in English. 3744 6076 Providing a caring and nurturing 6 - 6A - 8, 44 Street, D2 www.smartkidsinfo.com atmosphere for all its students, the hibsvietnam.com ABC International School offers SCHOOLS [ADULT] a combination of both British Kids Club Saigon and international educations and Early childhood centers in Phu My Cetana PSB Intellis International qualifications. Hung offering creative play-based College Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & programs for children ages 2 to 5. PSB College offers a suite of Secondary) Known for unique facilities, experienced internationally-recognized diploma #2, 1E Street, Khu Dan Cu Trung Son, Binh staff, high-quality learning resources, programs from business, marketing, Hung, Binh Chanh and small class sizes hospitality to finance. 5431 1833 /34/35/36 79/7 Pham Thai Buong, D7 The International 144-146-148 Le Lai, D1 [email protected] 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, D7 School Ho Chi Minh City www.psbcollege.edu.vn www.theabcis.com 5412 5944 (ISHCMC) www.kidsclubsaigon.com The most established RMIT International Australian International School (AIS) school in Ho Chi Minh University Vietnam The Australian International School is L’atelier City is celebrating 20 RMIT Vietnam offers programs from an IB World School with three world Classes include spelling and grammar years of success in 2013. business and management to design and class campuses in District 2, HCMC, ISHCMC is the only school in HCMC tuition after school, monitoring for the micro engineering. offering an international education from with full accreditation to teach all French education program, preparing 702 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 kindergarten to senior school with the three IB programs to students from for official tests (DEFL, DAFL, TFL, IB), IB Primary Years Programme (PYP), 2 to 18. ISHCMC is fully accredited and Vietnamese lessons, including Universal English Center Cambridge Secondary Programme by both the Council of International extra-curricular activities during the UEC was founded in 2009. Now with (including IGCSE) and IB Diploma Schools (CIS) and the New England holidays. Programme (DP). Association of School and Colleges 600 students drawn from 17 different 33/19 Quoc Huong, D2 Xi Campus (Kindergarten) (NEASC), two of the most prestigious nationalities, the class is served by over 35 3744 6844 190 Nguyen Van Huong, D2 international accreditation native English speaking teachers who are www.latelier-anphu.com Thao Dien Campus (Kindergarten & organisations. ISHCMC has 975 committed to providing a culturally diverse students from over 50 different and engaging classroom atmosphere. Primary School) Montessori International School of APSC Compound nationalities enjoying The center offers a wide range of classes 36 Thao Dien, D2 Vietnam recently upgraded from beginner levels through IGCSE, Thu Thiem Campus (Kindergarten, Primary, The school seeks to enable all its facilities. SAT, IELTS, TOEFL. UEC also provides 28 Vo Truong Toan, D2 Middle & Senior School) pupils to achieve their fullest potential support to students aspiring for a place in www.ishcmc.com East-West Highway, D2 by providing them with a nurturing international schools. 3742 4040 and stimulating environment, and by R4-55-56-57 Hung Gia 5, D7 www.aisvietnam.com being sensitive and responsive to 5412 3300 their individual needs. Their curriculum www.uec.edu.vn is designed based on Montessori methodology and practice, and is VLS Vietnamese Language School enhanced with a variety of programs. Imparting genuine fluency in Vietnamese 42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, D2 since 1994, VLS is one of the city’s best- 3744 2639 organised and most professional training www.montessori.edu.vn centers devoted to the Vietnamese language, with classes for all levels. Noah's Club R4 -28 Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem, D7 Providing high quality care & education 3602 6694 for kids aged 1-6 in District 2 . Various Saigon Star creative & fun programs, beautiful International outdoor space with a warm family School Saigon Star is a student focused British feeling and more. International international primary school No3, Duong so 4, Nguyen U Di, D2 offering high quality first class School (BIS) 3744 4709 provision. Specializing in the British Inspected and [email protected] National Curriculum, all of the class approved by the British Government, teachers hold international teaching BIS provides a British style curriculum Renaissance International qualification. In the early years for an international student body School Saigon program, a Montessori specialist works from pre-school to Year 13. The closely with the main class teachers school is staffed by British qualified Opened in 2008, The Renaissance to ensure a high rate of progress. The and trained teachers with recent UK International School Saigon offers school also provides specialists for experience. Fully accredited by the programs from Early Years to secondary children requiring extra Council of International Schools and a support with ESL. member of FOBISIA, BIS is the largest curriculum, founded on the International British System. The four buildings on Residential Area No.5, international school in Vietnam. Thanh My Loi Ward, D2 the school’s one-hectare site include An Phu Primary Campus 3742 STAR / 3742 7827 225 Nguyen Van Huong Street, D2 a 350-seat auditorium, a computer www.saigonstarschool.edu.vn 3744 4551 resource centre, gymnasium and 25 m [email protected] swimming pool. An Phu Secondary Campus 246 Nguyen Van Huong Street, D2 74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 Vstar School 3744 2335 www.rissaigon.edu.vn Vstar School provides education from [email protected] Tu Xuong Primary Campus Saigon South International School Grades 1-12 in a spacious 30,000m2 43-45 Tu Xuong Street, D3 Founded in 1997, Saigon South environment including a sports field and 3932 0210 International School seeks to swimming pool. [email protected] Him Lam Residential Complex, Nguyen www.bisvietnam.com accommodate an increasing need for American education for both local Huu Tho, D7 residents and expatriate families. Horizon International Bilingual School SSIS enrolls over 850 students in Smartkids A bilingual school, HIBS opened in Early Childhood – Grade 12 from over An international childcare centre provides

86 The List

Atexpats is Ho Chi Minh City's first truly comprehensive Health & Beauty insider's guide for foreign residents - website launching 2013

11E Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 1st Floor, 65 Le Loi, D1 35 Ly Tu Trong, D1 ladieswear 3910 3877 3914 7464 6276 2730 www.umbrella-fashion.com Anupa Eco Boutique Oi’s Pick Fit Misa Collection The boutique has been converted into Caters to women in their 20s. Well-known for tailoring bespoke ao Valenciani Oi’s Pick an eco-boutique which houses the 44 Luu Van Lang, D1 dias. Highly respected Vietnamese designer complete Anupa leather collections 67 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 whose collections are featured in ELLE and semi precious jewelry as well as Gaya 3829 4007 Vietnam and Vogue Vietnam. up-and-coming eco designers both A high-end shop that sells cocktail and 098 330 0469 1F/12 Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 locally and internationally such as ready party dresses by French-Cambodian 3821 2788 to wear mens linen shirts, ladies cotton designer Romyda Keth. Gaya has Ngan Private Collection 090 785 5788 dresses, chicken leg watch straps, specializes in home interior products. A collection of multi-brand fashion bamboo glasses and scarves with 1 Nguyen Van Trang, D1 labels created by one of Vietnam’s pendants. 3925 1495 highly recognized fashion designers. menswear 9 Dong Du, D1 Dedicated personal styling consultant www.anupa.net / facebook: anupaluxury Kelly Bui available for those in need of their own Anna Vo Fashion Boutique Launched in April 2010, the shop sells stylist. A popular designer currently in Saigon, Axara Paris - Saigon Center the most recent collections by the 23 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Anna Vo produces seasonal collections Axara may have seduced the whole brand. The collections shown on the 6290 9391 inspired by her time in Europe and world, but its 2010 launch in Vietnam website are the same as those in-store. Vietnam as well as aiming to be both at the Vincom Centre is still making B1-24, Vincom Center, 70-72 Le Thanh Phuong My beautiful and functional. The boutique headway with modern young Ton, D1 A ready-to-wear fashion designer also carries pieces from her mother Vietnamese women entranced by its 3936 9386 currently working from Ho Chi Minh Thuy Nga’s collections as well as high romantic, glamorous designs. City, producing feminine pieces using quality imported accessories. Each 65 Le Loi, D1 Khai Silk high quality fabric such as silk organza collection includes both menswear and 3914 7655 Khai Silk is a favorite among local and lace using expert tailoring and womenswear. celebrities for its high quality tailoring, construction which has earned her 23 Dong Khoi, D1 Banana Shop fabrics and service. frequent coverage in the country’s top 6675 4013 Banana Shop provides everything a 81 Dong Khoi, D1 fashion magazines. girl needs to be noticed in Ho Chi Minh 3822 2856 81 Le Thanh Ton, D1 An Phuoc City. Whether it be undergarments, 09 7271 7788 An Phuoc Garment Manufacturing was shoes, bags, or jewelry, Banana Shop Kiwi Fashion Shin established in 1992 with 50 workers and delivers with unique products from Kiwi offers contemporary designes 40 sewing machines, specializing in at an affordable price.It was founded Vintage style ladies fashion, clothes Hong Kong and the United States. manufacturing for exporting enterprises. by former Vietnamese model Kim and accessories by local designers. 128 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Now it has transformed itself into a 3829 0061 Hong Phung and houses the latest 122 Ly Tu Trong, D1 garment export company featuring fashion trends exclusively designed by 090 935 2369 handmade clothing and shoes. Bebe Josphine Geralda, one of the leading 182 Hai Ba Trung, D1 The shop sells its brand of women’s designers in London. Sifa Fashion clothing and apparel, dresses, 74C-74/1 Hai Ba Trung, D1 Known for selling office wear for Bonjour jumpsuits, shoes and bags. 3824 8214 women. A fashion boutique at the Vo Van Tan/ 1st floor, Saigon center, 65 Le Loi, D1 3822 1191 192 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Cao Thang T-intersection providing an 3914 4011 3825 0618 La Bella exhaustive range of one-off fashion pieces and accessories with both a Cao Vinh Fashion A Vietnamese fashion shop that Song - Valerie Gregori McKenzie modern and vintage feel. Prices are Specializes in formal Western-style carries dresses, skirts, tops and a large French bohemian chic designs that affordable for both men and women shirts, Cao Vinh is distinctive if for selection of bags and purses. caters to sophsiticated women. and come in a range of sizes to suit nothing else than its simple, intriguing 58-87 Pasteur, D1 75 Pasteur, D1 most customers. website allowing customers to specify 3823 0172 3824 6986 446 Vo Van Tan, D3 design elements. 9am - 9pm 69 Pasteur, D1 Sophilita 3824 5645 Lyn Around A simple Italian fashion brand with Massimo Ferrari Boutique 090 817 9129 This is the Saigon branch of the several branches in Vietnam, Sophilita Italiana - Americana fusion brand of international high-class fashion label mainly sells office, street, and casual, impeccable quality and style. Collections Cashew Lyn Around. It is famous for its girly girl womenswear. are available as ready-to-wear and/or Fashion shop chain with 4 boutiques in and street style. 15C Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 made-to-order. Sizes from 39 - 47 D HCMC. Specializes in women clothes 1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 6275 9019 and E widths and accessories. Designed by their 3821 6575 available. Run by an Italian Spanish own designers. Familiar brand in HCMC Suite Blanco American himself, master tailor Luis catwalk and Vietnam fashion industry. L’Usine Suite Blanco is a Spanish company Antonio Torres fits and consults all 38 Ly Tu Trong, D1 The central retail space offers famous specialized in the design, production, of his customers himself. Suits are 6683 9669 fashion brands from around the world distribution and sale of all types of the best fit and quality in Vietnam. All with full rotating stock. accessories and clothing for the shirts, suits and trousers are fully bench Diva Silk Boutique First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi, D1 modern woman and man looking for made and the fabric selections are to Diva is all about silk, oriental glamour, 6674 3565 the latest trends at affordable prices. die for. If you’re hunting for briefcases, luxury, and a feminine charm to match. The chain now has 240 shops spread in wallets, and accessories look no further. The products in this little shop comprise Maison de Bunga 15 different countries including Vietnam. Massimo Ferrari carries all types of bags both locally-woven first-grade silk Maison de Bunga is a specialty Vincom Center A, 171 Dong Khoi, D1 and accessories for the man and the garments and those imported from women’s clothing store specializing in lady. Brands carried are Maison Takuya Thailand. designers with floral motifs, hats, bags, Thuy Design House and Orobianco from Italy. Luxury quality 146 Dong Khoi, D1 and other accessories. A popular Vietnamese ready-to-wear and designs are simply gorgeous. 3822 7153 81 Pasteur, D1 designer creating seasonal collections 42A1 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 3943 0990 using high quality materials with a www.massimoferrariboutique.com Esprit minimalist design aesthetic. Thuy’s Hong Kong-based lifestyle apparel Mango friendly boutique carries a range of Maschio Shop te x pats brand offering affordable casual Mango is a Spanish fashion design shapes and silhouettes that are often Colorful retro men’s fashions, one of the streetwear from a two-story shop in the company with over 2,000 stores worn by the city’s fashion conscious. quirkier fine-quality local fashion stores heart of downtown HCMC. around the world. Ho Chi Minh City is 151/6 Dong Khoi, D1 in the central area. 58 Dong Khoi, D1 home to several of its branches. Mango www.facebook.com/thuydesignhouse 168 Ly Tu Trong, D1 3827 6085 sells fashion clothing for women 3829 2975 including dresses, skirts, tops and Umbrella Eva Gopa accessories. This fashion label caters to a higher Mizada Office fashion, street-style fashion, and Unit 2F-11, 2nd floor, Icon 68, 2 Hai Trieu, D1 end market with tailored bags to Since its inception in 2004, Mizada has

©2013 A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013 evening dresses for women. 6266 2111 accessories. become one of the leading luxury

87 fashion brands in Vietnam. Mizada Get Fit Gym the 15th and 16th floors of The Landmark Center Medical International caters to both women and women with Located on the 3rd floor in the H3 serviced apartments, and offers a fully Center Medical International is an products such as T-shirts, jeans, coats, Building, this international-standard, equipped gym, rooftop swimming pool, outpatient clinic fully-equipped scarves, and much more. gym offers a steam bath and sauna, and a squash court. It also features to provide international standard 105 Le Thanh Ton, D1 yoga, kickboxing, rumba, salsa, male and female changing facilities and comprehensive and specialized medical 6673 4199 merengue, cumbia and reggaeton saunas. services. All physicians are either classes. 5B Ton Duc Thang, D1 French or Vietnamese. San Sciaro Manhattan 384 Hoang Dieu, D4 3822 2098 1 Han Thuyen, D1 Fashionable, smart menswear from 6261 6169 [email protected] 3827 2365 the Viet Tien Garment Company, specializing in garment manufacture K1 Fitness & Fight Factory The Crescent Wellness Club Columbia Asia Saigon Clinic and trade equipment since the mid A well-known brand name founded by Overlooking The Crescent complex’s Beautiful international clinic a short 70’s. a group of professional kickboxers and lagoon, this multi-purpose and distance from the cathedral, with 1st Floor Saigon Tax Trade Center, 135 now present in France and Southeast organically designed fitness and exemplary standards of healthcare for Nguyen Hue, D1 Asia, including Montpellier and Phnom wellness centre offers an array of walk-in patients. 3864 0800 Penh as well as here in Saigon. modern facilities including a state-of- 8 Alexandre De Rhodes, D1 090 316 6364 14 Duong 38, Nguyen Thi Thap, D7 the-art gym, group fitness classes, yoga 3823 8454 091 833 7111 sessions, a squash court, swimming Veston Huy Hoang pool, steam bath and nutrition bar. David Shepherd Chiropractic Clinic Men’s tailored fashions, specialising in Nicky's Zumba® Fitness Studio 3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza, DSCC provides Chiropractic care suits. Expect to Pay: $200 and upward They offer Zumba®Fitness, Yoga, Cross 105 Ton Dat Tien, D7 for patients using state of the art for a suit, fabric included. Obviously, the Fit, Pilates Personal Fitness, Nurtition 5412 1277 physiotherapy equipment imported better the quality of fabric, the higher the Advice and Hip hop kids, Aerobic kids, from USA. DSCC is managed and price. 70% of customers are foreigners. ZumbAtomic®. X-Rock Climbing operated by American doctors who use 65 Pasteur, D1 Available at: Panorama-Fitness (206 Tran With two locations in the city, this wall modern and advanced technologies 3822 4609 Van Tra, D7), Fit & Fun Club (Sky Garden 2, in An Phu stands at 26 meters. The techniques to ensure safe, gentle, and 090 865 4988 D7), Cyril&you (49a Xa Lo Ha Noi, D2), and center offers nine levels from beginners effective treatment. Sommerset (8 Nguyen Binh Khiem, D1). to hardcore. 41 Noi Khu, Hung Gia 3, D7 5410 6242 093 406 0735 or 6680 7226 503A Nguyen Duy Trinh, D2 gyms www.saigonchiropractic.com [email protected] www.xrockclimbing.com www.zumba-saigon.com Ais Sports Complex Yoga Club Diag Center International Situated in Ho Chi Minh City, Diag Open to the public, the center has a Nutrifort Fitness Yogo fitness center for both men and 25m swimming pool, basketball court Center International is a diagnostic Aiming to be the voice of health and women and an astroturf play area. Inquire about testing center, which consists of a team fitness in Vietnam, Nutrifort provides 18 Street Number 2, D2 special packages. of thirty Vietnamese staff, and operates clientele with proper tools and teaching 3897 6786 APSC Compound, 36 Thao Dien, D2 methods to keep the mind and body under French medical biologists and assisted by a group of Vietnamese 3744 2549 fit and healthy. Clients also learn about clinics medical technicians trained in France. www.aissportscentre.com nutrition to nourish and maintain their 146 An Binh, D5 health. American Chiropractic Clinic Amaryska Kamionko 3838 1551 2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 American Chiropractic Clinic is a Private fitness trainer, assisting in full chiropractic, physiotherapy, and foot body workouts, toning & strength Rex Health Club Family Medical Practice care clinic in the Heart of Saigon. We With a nationwide operational advantage, training for females. Sessions often at This spa was designed for both men are staffed by American and French- they provide international standard clients’ homes or at their designated & women, integrating traditional trained Chiropractic Physicians and medical services in a safe, professional gyms. Vietnamese, Indian, and Chinese herbal Vietnamese Physical Therapists. and welcoming environment. 0902271830 remedies and techniques. Situated on 161-161A Hai Ba Trung, D3 95 Thao Dien, D2 personalfitnessathome.blogspot.com the rooftop of the Rex Hotel, it features 3939 3930 3744 2000 two outdoor swimming areas. www.acc.vn www.vietnammedicalpractice.com Body By Jovie 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 Body By Jovie is a boutique personal [email protected] Animal Rescue & Care 8am-6pm Monday-Friday, 8am-2pm training center and yoga studio, catering Saigon River Club Abandoned and wild cats and dogs can Saturday to individuals demanding diversity, Located in Ruby Tower at the Saigon be adopted or fostered from their online challenge and results. It specializes in one Pearl, Saigon River Club is equipped database. ARC also organizes several Hanh Phuc International Women & on one session and also offer a full range with the very latest in fitness Children’s Hospital of classes such as yoga, TRX suspension animal welfare education and low-cost technology. It has a fully-equipped Hanh Phuc International Hospital aims class, belly dancing, Zumba and outdoor spaying campaigns. sauna and steam room and a large to be the leading private healthcare boot camp. 31-44 Thao Dien, D2 outdoor pool with jacuzzi. provider for women and children in Riverside Residence, Nguyen Luong www.arcpets.com Ruby Tower, 92 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Vietnam. Designed and managed up to Bang, D7 Thanh Singaporean standards, the 260-bed 5417 1946 An Phu International Clinic 3514 9009 Hanh Phuc Hospital aims to provide [email protected] An international standard clinic a comprehensive range of quality 7am - 9pm (Weekdays) and Star Fitness Bitexco with a full range of specialist and modern medical equipment with a healthcare services to women and 7:30am - 7pm (Saturdays) Located in The Manor Tower, this gym children with a personalized touch and is not only a fitness center it includes dedicated team of professors, doctors, California WOW experienced nurses. in a warm and friendly atmosphere. other specialized classes such as yoga, 2nd floor Saigon Trade Centre, 251A Luong Dinh Cua, D2 The first and largest international belly dancing, kick boxing, zumba, body 37 Ton Duc Thang, D1 6660 6602 fitness company to open in Vietnam. toning, and so on. 3911 1860 Provides world class fitness services Level 1, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh www.dakhoaanphu.com and products in a state-of-the art 5-star 3514 0255 Family Medical Practice Institute of Traditional Medicine fitness and entertainment facility. Established in 1975, the Institute With a nationwide operational advantage, 126 Hong Bang, D5 Spa InterContinental & Healthclub of Traditional Medicine is a holistic they provide international standard 28-30-32 Le Lai, D1 Guests will have access to a 20-meter research and teaching hospital. Patients 5 Nguyen Tat Thanh, D4 outdoor lap pool complete with a medical services in a safe, professional are treated using traditional medicines, sundeck, a 160-square meter spacious and welcoming environment. some of which are produced by the Christina Eberlin Yoga Teacher fitness centre with the latest generation 95 Thao Dien, D2 institute itself. Some doctors speak Christina graduated from Virajati 300hr cardio and resistance equipment, plus a 3744 2000 English and/or French, and acupuncture yoga teacher training in Thailand. She personal program of fitness classes. www.vietnammedicalpractice.com lessons are on offer. is offering private yoga classes and 3rd Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon [email protected] 273-275 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu Nhuan group classes. For more information Corner of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 8am-6pm Monday-Friday, 8am-2pm 3844 5954 you can reach her at 3520 9999 Saturday [email protected] [email protected] Lotus Clinic or 093 849 2461 8am – 9:30pm Australian Clinic & Pathology Lotus Clinic was established in 2007 as te x pats Diagnostics the first Japanese medical clinic in Ho Cyril And You Thien Nga (Swan) Club The Australian Clinic, Pathology & Chi Minh City. French physical instructor Cyril Fitness club that has training equipment Diagnostics (ACPD) is comprised of a Lancaster Bldg , 22 Le Thanh Ton, D1 specializes in sports conditioning, and a 25sqm swimming pool medical outpatient clinic and associated 3827 0000 resistance training and senior training 751 Xuan Thuy, D2 pathology laboratory. The clinic hosts along with designing a personal fitness 3899 0012 highly trained and experienced medical International SOS Medical Care program to fit your needs. Thao Dien, specialists. Located in the city center, the clinic D2; 094 777 1326 The Health Club 273 - 275 Ly Thai To, D10 is open 24 hours a day, 365 days a www.cyril-and-you.com The Landmark Health Club is located on 3834 9941 year providing routine and emergency A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013

88 healthcare services as well as on-site 57A Tran Quoc Thao, D3 of the few dedicated, comprehensive eye Kelly Pang laboratory and radiology services. 3933 3737 institutes in the country. Internationally Nail salon established in 2004 as a Languages spoken include Japanese, recognized staff diagnose and treat the small nail salon in Phu Nhuan, Kelly Korean and French, among others. European Dental Clinic entire spectrum of conditions of the eye, Pang has gradually become known as 167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 Offering state of the art technology, including complex problems such as a training center and professional nail 3829 8551 competitive pricing, and supreme diabetic retinopathy, retinal detachments, care facility throughout Vietnam. quality, this dentistry is truly dedicated macular degeneration, glaucoma, and 214C Nguyen Trai, D1 Perfect Skin lab to their patients. cataracts. More than just a spa, this District 17-17A Le Van Mien, D2 135B Tran Binh Trong, D5 OPI Nail Spa Nguyen Hue 1 venue is a genuine skin lab that 091 874 9204 or 090 955 1916 090 588 6086 Providing a full range of official products caters to each customer’s unique www.europeandentalclinic-asia.com and services of the OPI brand. characteristics and needs. The lab Cho Ray Hospital 103 Nguyen Hue, D1 is the latest concept developed by Cho Ray Hospital is the largest Dermal Essentials, the elite distributor German International Dentistry healthcare service in Vietnam, providing for Dermalogica, a skin care system German International Dentistry offers full priority service for expatriates, with spas researched and developed by The excellent consultation services from a staff including 696 doctors and 1350 nurses. International Dermal Institute in experienced, international dentists so 201B Nguyen Chi Thanh, D5 Vietnam. that you can make informed decisions 1st floor, unit 9-10 Saigon Center, about your dental care. Columbia Asia International Hospital 65 Le Loi, D1 1489 Nguyen Van Linh, D7 - Gia Dinh 3910 0372 3776 3777 Skilled and experienced doctors Stamford Skin Center offer exceptional medical care at Grand Dentistry affordable prices with the latest in The Stamford Skin Centre has grown Grand Dentistry is an upscale dental medical technology. Patients benefit to include qualified specialists who office located in the ground floor of from advanced medical diagnostics, treat general diseases of the skin such Sunwah tower on Nguyen Hue street. treatment and personal care. as acne, eczema and other forms of It is noted for being very tourist/expat 1 No Trang Long, Binh Thanh Indochine Spa dermatitis, rosacea, psoriasis, and skin friendly. This dentistry features English Nestled in cancers. speaking staff and expatriate dentists. DialAsie International Hospital the heart 254 Dien Bien Phu, D3 Ground Floor Sun Wah Tower, A specialist centre in kidney treatment of Saigon, 3932 1090 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 for the expat community, DialAsie is a Indochine spa will bring you back to an 090 845 3338 3821 9446 fairly well-reputed international hospital ancient time with peaceful melodies of nephrology & dialysis, offering and aromatic scents. With our skillful Uc Chau Cosmetic Surgery Minh Khai Dental Clinic medical consultancy in renal diseases, therapists, Natural products with This central clinic performs French/American/Swiss managed haemodialysis, and paraclinical French formulation and high class straightforward cosmetic treatments, clinic with well-maintained international- examinations. cleanness environment, Indochine including enhancing the nose bridge, standard equipment. 253 Dien Bien Phu, D3 spa provides your senses with natural energy. Indulge yourself for a unique breast enlargement, eyelid folds, and 199 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Nguyen Cu and amazing experience. wrinkle removal. Trinh, D1 FV Hospital 25 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 FV Hospital is a Vietnam’s only 69 Thu Khoa Huan st., D. 1, HCM 3925 3399 3827 7188 2212 3396 internationally accredited healthcare [email protected] 2212 3398 facility. A wholly foreign-owned general Naomi Dental Clinic www.indochine-spa.com.vn hospital offering a wide range of Victoria Health Care International A full service dental clinic under the Open: 10:00-22:00 Clinic direction of Japanese dentist Dr. medical and surgical services under one Nakashima Mikio. roof, equipped to care for patients from Victoria Healthcare offers the highest An Nam Spa R4-45 Hung Phuoc 4, D7 consultation and diagnosis through to standard of healthcare, based on Housed in a beautiful nine-story 5410 3937 the completion of treatment. American and European practices, and 6 Nguyen Luong Bang, D7 building with different areas for offering compassionate and efficient Saigon Smile men and women, guests can enjoy service with the greatest respect for the Saigon International Maternity a panoramic view of Saigon while With a group of experienced doctors patient. Hospital J.S.C. calming their senses in a relaxing and professional staff trained to do 79 Dien Bien Phu, D1 A private-owned hospital specialising sanctuary. teeth cleaning, dental work and other in maternity, this was the first hospital 26-28 Dong Du, D1 Vietnam Family Medical Practice teeth enhancing procedures. to meet the Hotel-Hospital international 96 Tran Nao, D2 International clinic located in the Manor standard in HCMC since the year 2000. Dermal Essentials 6674 4255 complex, within easy reach of high- 63 Bui Thi Xuan, D1 Dermalogica, a Los Angeles-based 8am to 8pm rollers living around the Saigon Pearl company, is a revolutionary skin Traditional Medicine Hospital treatment system. Call Dermalogica’s area. The sister clinic is located beneath Saint Paul Diamond Plaza. This hospital is a major medical centre therapists for a complimentary Face Saint Paul has facilities all over Ho Chi Ground Floor, 91 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh practising the essence of that millennia- Mapping consultation. Minh City, and with the slogan “slight, 108 Pasteur, D1 Thanh old exploration into the rhythms of the 3514 0758 exact, and painless,” the doctors at human body and its connection to the Saint Paul aim to please even the most natural world which firmly belongs to Eden Spa fastidious patients. this region. Extremely central, Eden is located dental 50 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 179 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, D3 in a quiet niche off Nguyen Hue in 3835 6159 the commercial center. Owing to its 2000 Dental Clinic Trung Tam Implant Tu Du Hospital expertise in skincare and first-class Smile Dental Center Tu Du is a large state hospital relaxing atmosphere, Eden has the Established in 1999, 2000 Dental gumption to claim a number-one spot Clinic now has 65 dentists serving Quality dental care with whitening, specializing in maternity, women, and cleaning, and orthodontic services. children’s diseases, family planning, and in the discerning Japanese market. 3 locations offering the full range of 19-25 Nguyen Hue, D1 dental care, including surgery, implants Japanese equipment and techniques. many other areas. Highly experienced doctors and staff provide affordable 3821 3815 and extractions. 173 Ton Dat Tien, D7 care. 097 810 6868 125 Le Thi Rieng, D1 5413 6635 284 Cong Quynh, D1 3925 6501 Starlight Dental Clinic Vu Anh International Hospital - Dang Luu Dental Centre Award-winning quality care and Obstetrics Dang Luu Dental Centre offers the personal service in clean premises, Luxurious hospital facility offering full range of dental services, including offering general dentistry, whitening and cosmetic surgery, implants, modern care in a comfortable setting. implants, crown and bridges and teeth The hotel also provides 12 VIP rooms whitening. Orthodontic services are also orthodontics, pediatric, and preventive dentistry. for patients seeking 5 star medical provided. Some of the dentists have services featuring garden access and 2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te, D3 been foreign-trained. designer furniture. 34 Phan Dang Luu, Binh Thanh 3822 6222 15-16 Phan Van Tri, Go Vap Flamingo Spa Digital Dental Clinic Westcoast International Dental Clinic nails Flamingo Spa is an Digital Dental Care draws on well- Large, international team of dentists authentic Thai spa known Korean consistency in service and support staff from Canada, Classic Nails where all ingredients standards and precision equipment to Australia, Japan, France, Italy, Thailand, Located near Ben Thanh Market, Classic used are imported offer a truly world-class service in the and Vietnam. The clinic regularly hosts Nails is a professional salon with staff who from Thailand. Guests te x pats Phu My Hung area. visiting dentists from many other are trained and experienced in designing arrive in a clean and R4-35 Ton Dat Tien, D7 countries. complicated pattern. The salon only uses friendly atmosphere for an optimal 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, D1 materials from reputable companies and relaxing experience. Men, women and Elite Dental 3825 7485 always update with the latest colors. They couples are welcome, and they offer a With an atmosphere more reminiscent also have sofas with a massage function wide range of massages along with a of a luxury hotel, this is one of the and adjustable posture for the customer’s sauna, jacuzzi facilities & VIP rooms. 13B Le Thanh Ton, D1 largest high-quality dental clinics in hospitals comfortable and relaxation. 3822 1074 HCMC, established to answer expat 4 Phan Boi Chau, D1 Cao Thang Eye Hospital 3825 7047 091 243 9601 demands for superb dental techniques [email protected] ©2013 A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013 and professional staff. The CT International Eye Hospital is one 9am - 8pm

89 Glow also provides a yoga studio, enclosed with the best of international brands, A boutique day spa located in the heart garden, and many exclusive skin care Spa InterContinental offers guests home & furnishings of the city. In this relaxing, peaceful products. the professional spa expertise and atmosphere, guests can enjoy a full 64A Truong Dinh, D3 a truly sensory experience. 3rd Floor, AA Deco Company range of massage/treatment options. 100 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 InterContinental Asiana Saigon AA Interiors provides high-quality Kim Do Hotel, 129A Nguyen Hue, D1 1st floor, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phu, D7 Corner Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, D1 fabrication and fit-out services for 3520 9999 hotels, residences, spas, and so on Golden Lotus Foot Massage Club [email protected] throughout the city. Also sells many Sauna 8am – 9:30pm well-known furniture brands. Fully-featured massage establishment 219 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 with pool, steam room, and hydraulic Thann massage located in trendy Thai Van Thann provide a range of natural hair AkzoNobel Decorative Center Lung. Various salt scrubs, and high-end and skincare products formulated Dulux Paints specialist with attractive beauty products imported direct from from botanicals derived by combining central-city showroom/store. Korea are available. the art of natural therapy with modern 91-93 Nguyen Hue, D1 15 Thai Van Lung, D1 dermatological science. 3915 3491 HP Oxygen Spa Level 2, Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, D1 Authentique A safe haven from the dust and smoke Maison Mikio Boutique Salon Thalgo La Beaute Marine An interior decorating shop featuring of the city offering an array of body/ Vietnamese traditional styles with a District 7’s Premium Boutique Salon. Thalgo is on the cutting edge of spa skin treatment options, including small showroom in the busiest area of advanced skin care, an eye lightening Two floors providing full beauty treatments, and is renowned for its services nestled in a quiet residential the city, process, body massages, hair care, and products and skilled therapists. area in Phu My Hung’s Garden Plaza 71/1 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 foot care. 2 Complex. Equipped with a café, 40C Ly Tu Trong, D1 3823 8811 Ground Floor, Yoco Building, nail bar, 2 VIP rooms, and a spacious 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 massage room - this boutique salon is The Body Shop Canada Home Deco Company Huong Sen Spa like no other in Ho Chi Minh City. A global manufacturer and retailer of Established by an expat Canadian Garden Plaza 2 Complex naturally-inspired, ethically-produced couple in 2003, Canada Home Deco Located in a charming old French villa, 8 Tôn Dât Tiên, Quân 7 beauty and cosmetics products. The specializes in distributing high-quality Huong Sen Spa is a natural green oasis 5412 4773 Body Shop offers many kinds of blankets, pillows, bedspreads, and with skin, face, and body treatment skincare products, makeup accessories, cushions. services. hair & body care products, perfume, and 158 Hai Ba Trung, D1 21S Nguyen Van Troi, Ward 12, Phu Nhuan MiMi Clinic & Spa Prestige Spa for celebrities holding bath milk. Jasmine Spa frequent beauty events – and therefore 87 Mac Thi Buoi, D1 Catherine Denoual Experienced staff utilize exotic one of the best-known local brands in Supplies blankets, pillows, mattresses, skincare products to comfort guests medical aesthetics for over 10 years in The Prime – Spa For Men tablecloths, cushions, and other luxury in this cozy urban sanctuary, which HCMC. American skin treatments for men linens to reputable hotels, spas, resorts, has has a large, loyal following 32 Dong Khoi, D1 from top brands such as Dermalogica and individual consumers. that swears by its friendly and 090 387 6666 and Lab Series. Equipped with 15C Thi Sach, D1 professional service. imported machines from Europe. 45 Ton That Thiep, D1 Miu Miu The spa has five therapy services, Gomo Spa with an elegant and charming including basic skin care, professional Typical of the large furniture décor, offering facials, body skin care, intensive therapy, eye warehouses in North America and massages, and manicures. Pervaded therapy, body therapy – and a Prime Europe, Gomo sells contemporary items by exotic oils and aromas, the staff special service package. for your home and office. provide counsel on unique skin-care 192 Le Lai, D1 7/30B, Road 13, Binh Hoa products from Thailand and around Thuan An Town, Binh Duong the world in English, Vietnamese, Tri Siam (0650) 376 5115 www.gomo.com.vn and Japanese. Well-respected salon on the edge of 4 Chu Manh Trinh, D1 town, offering manicures & styling. Lam Bui Natural Home Goods 6659 3609 76C Hai Ba Trung, D1 Founded in 2004 by a team of Kyoto Spa & Hair Salon Moc Huong Spa Xuan Spa intrepid entrepreneurs, Lam Bui Body massage Moc Huong Spa Natural Home Goods is a large, One of the most luxurious spas in Ho Foot massage is supported well-stocked home goods store with Hair cut women and men by top-ranking Chi Minh City, Xuan is located inside specialty old-style furnishings and 32 Dong Du, Ben Nghe Ward, D1 professional the five-star Park Hyatt hotel. Services decor items. (Spa & Hair Salon) physiotherapists include packages such as Urban Retreat 8A/4D1 Thai Van Lung, Unit 16-17, 2nd Floor, Saigon Centre, 65 who combine Eastern with Western Package, Apricot blossom – Mai, Le Loi, D1 Ben Nghe Ward, D1 (Spa) techniques resulting a full body 0902 983 089 Bamboo, and more. 3914 3553 wellness. Reasonably priced with a 2 Lam Son Square, D1 [email protected] wide range of services that include www.spakyotohcmc.com.vn manicure, pedicure, facial, both body Mosaique Decoration and for your complete well being. Yuan Mosaique Decoration takes all the 9C Ton Duc Thang, D1 Despite being labeled as a foot unique beauty and craftsmanship of Korean Style Sauna 3911 7118 massage establishment, Yuan actually Vietnam and adapts it to contemporary Sauna and massage that serves mostly has a full range of services. Customers home décor. Mosaique offers unique Oasis Salon & Spa Japanese and Korean men - some of usually make appointments. Yuan is lighting design, decorative embroidery, the more discerning expat clients. For a The original Oasis spa & beauty salon, especially geared towards Japanese silk quilts, and other home accessories. delicate touch. this venue offers a full range of services expats. Ground Floor, Saigon Centre, 15 Thai Van Lung, D1 at competitive prices. Full hair care, 15B8 Le Thanh Ton, D1 65 Le Loi, D1 facial, massage, nail spa, beauty care & L’Apothiquaire - Saigon South waxing services. Premium Housewares This Japanese/French style spa is an Yuri 1st & 2nd Floor, 45 Nguyen Hue, D1 Providing high quality kitchenware and exclusive distributor of organic French A full-range Korean beauty salon in the accessories, Premium Housewares skin care products, and other exclusive Lotte complex, with a chief focus on Saigon Spa presents its products in more than 70 products from around the world. beautiful hair styling. Recommended inexpensive spa countries worldwide. 1st floor, 103 Ton Dat Tien, Tan Phu, D7 3rd floor, Lotte Mart, 469 Nguyen Huu treatments with a full spa menu. 77 Pasteur, D1 5413 6638 1st Floor, 47 Dong Khoi, D1 Tho, D7 3775 2990; 093 481 8085 Red Door Décor La Cochinchine Spa Sense Spa Yves Rocher Botanical Beauty Spa A well-known furniture store in Ho Chi Sense Spa is a massage, skin, and body Minh City offering products such as Located in the Rex Hotel, this luxury A famous international botanical care haven with a plethora of high-end interior/exterior decorations, artwork, spa and fitness centre combined cosmetic brand with a full range of imported creams, lotions, and serums. handicrafts, glass ceramics, garments, with a swimming pool and bar has a products, The Botanical Beauty Spa 54 Dong Du, D1 and textile materials. particular style that is a combination of Center combines the expertise of its Vietnamese, French, Cham, Hindu, and 31A Le Thanh Ton, D1 Spa InterContinental beauticians with the efficacy of Yves Asian cultures. Luxury spa and gym te x pats Rocher treatments. located at the Rex hotel. Spa InterContinental is a Vscential 16-18 Hai Ba Trung, D1 6F, Rex Hotel, 141 Nguyen Hue, D1 contemporary spa that has two Vscential sells aromatic French lavender 3825 1812 double and five single treatment bouquets, fresh flowers, silk flowers, and rooms, each with a private bathroom, Zest Massage handmade flowers. With 45 different La Maison de L’Apothiquaire a foot reflexology area, and luxurious Famous for its fish pedicures, Zest, types of essential oils available, there’s a This unique spa is situated in an changing and shower rooms. located in the outer western region scent for everyone. artfully-designed villa and offers Combining the fresh, local traditional of District One, serves up some fairly Vscential guests many therapeutic body and herbs and plants, an ambient lighting, dynamic Thai massage. 238B Pasteur, D3 skin treatments. The luxurious villa soft scents and soothing sounds 60 Bui Thi Xuan, D1 www.vscential.com A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013

90 Business & Tech

IMAGE BY NGOC TRAN

91 FEATURE Strength in Numbers Is social buying in Vietnam a sure bet? Text by James Pham ImageS by Ngoc Tran

It shouldn't come as a surprise cheers. While retailers initially resisted the "This type of business has a low barrier that what we now know as social buying trend, it wasn't long before they realized to entry. You throw up a website and start originated in the land where Mao once the potential of social buying. Soon, BBS talking to merchants. They don't lose declared: "With many people, strength is and other startups were stepping up to anything. You can pitch to get upfront great." If urban business legends are to be take on the role of group leader, organizing money. For instance, if I project to sell 1,000 believed, tuangou or team buying started deals themselves on behalf of users. Many vouchers, I can give [the merchant] half [the with a housewife trying to bargain her way estimate there are now more than 2,000 social money] upfront. That's the whole point of to a discount. When the shop owner wouldn't buying sites in China alone, with companies the Groupon model, to collect cash first and budge, she returned with her closest friends like Groupon and LivingSocial leading the distribute it later. It's a negative working and "mob bought" her way to a better deal. Western market. capital model. So you have enormous Fast forward to the mid-2000s when At its core, social buying is built on the amounts of cash, do marketing, sell more tuangou went digital. Then, groups of same premise as tuangou: The merchant vouchers. It's an endless cycle," says James strangers interacting on bulletin board sites agrees to sell a product for a significantly Vuong, Vice President, Investment & (BBS) were able to organize themselves into reduced price as long as a minimum number Technology, at IDG Ventures Vietnam, virtual mobs, sometimes relying on a group of customers agrees to buy it. The customers which invests in Vietnamese e-commerce leader to negotiate for big ticket items - cars, win in that they get a price they wouldn't sites like NhomMua, Hot Deal, CungMua furniture and electronics - or meeting up have been able to negotiate on their own and and MuaChung (all of which are in in person to pressure vendors into the best the vendors win in that they reach a whole Vietnamese only). deals. Internet videos of the early tuangou new group of potential repeat customers. At days show massive groups screaming, "No, least that's the way it's supposed to work. Losing Money we don't want it!" to a visually cowering The real story behind social buying, however, The process usually starts off with a company merchant who slowly relents to a chorus of often includes just as many losers as winners. representative contacting a merchant who

92 agrees to provide a discount (usually 30-50 percent or more) to customers who pre-buy vouchers which can be exchanged for a product or service. The Vietnamese model "We're not making any money from it, lags behind most other countries in that vouchers cannot be printed, but must be and the vouchers barely pay for the hand delivered, adding three to five days of wait time. From what the customer pays, materials, but we're seeing lots of new the social buying site will take a commission customers who we hope to turn into (sometimes negotiable with the merchant for anything between 20-50 percent), leaving regular customers and for them to tell the business making at times as little as 25 percent or less of retail value. their friends." That was the case with Nu Cuoi Duyen Dental Clinic, a cheery, modern facility in Phu Nhuan. "Within a few weeks, we sold more than 700 vouchers through Hot Deal and more than 1,000 vouchers through NhomMua," says owner Duy An Vo, of the VND50,000 teeth cleaning, marked down from the usual VND200,000. "We're not making any money from it, and the vouchers barely pay for the materials, but A Sampling of Social Buying Deals we're seeing lots of new customers who we hope to turn into regular customers and for them to tell their friends. Referral Merchant Deal Comments marketing is much more persuasive than Golden VND130,000 vouchers A good reason to try out a new Thai print marketing. Our four dentists have Elephant Thai sold for VND65,000 restaurant, although menu items were had to work straight through lunch and Restaurant pricey so the voucher wasn't enough for we're staying until 9 or 10 in the evening a full meal. to take care of all the customers, but we're doing this to get our name out." The clinic, Nu Cuoi Duyen VND50,000 for Dreaded what a USD2.50 teeth cleaning open for little over a year, is trying out each Dental Clinic teeth cleaning (reg. would be like but was delighted to VND200,000) find modern, well-equipped facilities social buying site once, in addition to more and English-speaking dentists. Have traditional forms of marketing. been back for a root canal and another "You're supposed to lose money at the cleaning at regular price. beginning," confirms James. "You'll lose money on the first voucher but you're Grilled Pork VND120,000 vouchers USD3 for a bowl of bibimbap and all the going to give [the customers] such a good Korean sold for VND60,000 trimmings was a steal. Plus, it was close Restaurant to work! experience that they're going to come back. The lifetime value makes up for the loss. Next time, they'll bring their friends, and that Small Valley 40ml room diffuser Nicely packaged but the smell didn't last (VND158,000) for long. Probably not a great deal, but it lowers the barrier of trying out a new venue. VND79,000 was nice having the merchandise home That's how it's supposed to work. The key is delivered. to be good at accounting to make sure that on a per voucher basis, you're not losing [too Bong Sen Hotel VND230,000 lunch This was the smallest discount of any much] money." buffet for VND179,000 of the vouchers at only 22 percent, but Problems arise when many of the small, anything less than USD10 for a ritzy Dong Khoi venue was decent. non-business savvy mom-and-pop venues that choose the e-commerce route don't fully think things through. A sudden massive Note Nhac Vui VND240,000 voucher A whopping 87 percent discount, but the Karaoke for VND32,000 (2 pushiness of the staff to upsell food and influx of new customers may overwhelm hours of primetime drink was off-putting. One staff actually small businesses, overtaxing staff and karaoke) unwrapped a plate of fruit against our resources. The web is rife with cautionary wishes and demanded that we pay for it (we didn’t), even though it remained stories like the London baker who ended uneaten. After the initial bad experience, up having to make 102,000 cupcakes to fill I didn't bother using the second voucher 8,500 orders at 75 percent off, leading to a I had purchased. loss of USD20,000. Or the Portland cafe who took in only USD3 for every USD13 worth of Bun Cha Ha Noi VND52,000 for two This was only a 38 percent discount, products, leaving them USD8,000 in the hole. bowls of bun cha and but it was near a friend's house, which two drinks made it convenient. The food wasn't Banh Xeo Ba Hai, a Vietnamese eatery exceptional enough to make me want which looked spacious online, but in reality to go back. only had 32 seats, could barely keep up with the more than 1,000 users who purchased Bat Trang VND 45,000 for a Unbelievably cheap for a whole a voucher for a combo set which included Moment pottery experience (reg. afternoon of pottery making, painting a banh xeo crepe, shrimp rolls and a che VND90,000) and firing, esp. with kids dessert for VND54,000. "We recently opened in this new location, so we wanted to get Thang Loi Queen-sized bedding Happy with the quality but didn't like people in to taste our food," explains Liem Bedding set (VND950,000) for having to travel to the store to pick up VND550,000 the merchandise. Selection more limited while his mother pours huge crepes stuffed than what was pictured online. with shrimp, squid and papaya in the background. "I didn't expect this many

93 people would buy vouchers." sell on e-commerce sites are smaller than coming in which dilutes the brand." The lure for many small businesses is in their normal portions." Similarly, Luccie notes that if her favorite avoiding the initial outlay of any marketing Hang, a housewife from Binh Thanh talks restaurant is running a deal, she'll typically costs. "We're doing it because we're a small of her experience going to an all-you-can-eat wait until it's over to revisit. "I don't want business and can't afford TV or print ads," seafood buffet. "We got there and each of us to be in a fancy restaurant and spend says Mai Hoa, owner of Bonjour Resto, a was given a crab. But when we tried to get VND1,000,000 per person and be seated next quaint cafe that serves up unusual fare like more, they said they were out. But I could to someone who couldn't normally afford venison and ostrich. "The social buying obviously see they had more. It turned me to eat there. I think these deals are good for people do all the work. They come in and off to the whole thing and needless to say, I'll bistro-level restaurants and below, but not for take photos and do all the marketing. We never go back to that restaurant again." the more upscale restaurants." only need to be concerned about taking really The future of social buying sites good care of the customers." Dining With Farmers worldwide as well as in Vietnam is Therein lies another dilemma - Another issue to consider for both uncertain. US stock prices for Groupon guaranteeing a good user experience, turning e-commerce sites as well as merchants are trading at roughly one third of the the bargain hunter into a repeat customer. themselves is attracting the right kind of peak they achieved in late 2011 when they "Sometimes the merchant will reduce the customer. Regarding social buying sites, became the second-biggest tech IPO in price, but they'll also reduce the quality. James says: "If you're not careful, you can history behind Google. Amazon-backed When people come in and use a voucher, create a situation that is not sustainable. LivingSocial is also losing money, posting employees are going to look at you and Consumers are often not loyal to the group- an estimated USD82 million net loss for judge you. So two things combined - a lower buying brand. The customers may be loyal to the fourth quarter of 2013. "We're trying to quality product with a bad attitude and the deals or the venues without caring which tell them that it's not a sustainable model," overcapacity, places packed, long lines. It site actually gives you the deal. It's different says James of the group buying sites his all contributes to a horrible experience. It's if you consistently have positive experiences company has invested in, "but they don't equivalent to losing money. You get people like with Amazon. But if a site sells discount believe us.” to come, then slap them in the face, and they deals, a consumer may come on to this site or He notes that the trend in many don't come back. You don't achieve a lifetime go to another one, even if he's never bought markets is moving from social buying value," says James. from it before. It's similar for businesses. to e-commerce where the sites actually "I recommend going with [an in-house] Every time you do a deal, you'll lose money sell products themselves. "When moving promotion instead of buying a voucher so or sacrifice quality or product. But when you from group buying to products, smaller that the servers don't look down on you," lose money, you're hoping that person will clones can sell inferior products. They writes Luccie Nguyen, blogger and social come back. It's a customer acquisition cost. buy on the cheap, put [the products] in media specialist, on her Vietnamese-language But if you have to spend money to get me warehouses and sell it themselves. But food site, meoac.info. "As soon as staff every single time, that's not a sustainable they're getting merchants and users from hear you're using a voucher, they treat you business model. There are people who hunt each other instead of creating new users differently." On the issue of quantity and for discounts only, so businesses will have a and merchants." quality, Thu, an accountant in Phu Nhuan, hard time selling to them [later] at full price. In a culture where everyone is out to get is sure restaurants treat voucher users Or you may attract the wrong segment, like the best deal, the future of social buying is differently. "I think their portions when they high-end places that have kids and farmers anything but a sure bet.

94 LEGAL EASE LEGAL Column

Dear Hadrien,

Last week my 12-year-old son caused a small accident at his school. While playing football with the other kids in the schoolyard, he accidentally A member of the Paris Bar, Hadrien Wolff has been practicing law in Vietnam for more than seven years, broke a window of one of the classrooms. Now the currently as a partner of Audier & Partners based at its HCMC office. Having gained extensive legal experience school is trying to claim USD450 from me and my in the Netherlands and Cambodia, Marijn Sprokkereef is an associate at the Hanoi office of the same firm.Audier husband as compensation for replacing the window. & Partners is an international law firm with presence in Vietnam, Myanmar and Mongolia, providing advice to Are we actually liable to pay for this damage? foreign investors on a broad range of legal issues

When looking at your son’s unfortunate accident from a legal perspective, we are talking about civil liability and, more specifically, about civil liability to compensate for so- called “non-contractual damages.” In these cases, the Civil Code of Vietnam is our starting point to learn about your rights and obligations. The Civil Code states that anyone harming property belonging to another individual, organization or legal entity must compensate for the damage they cause. This is regardless of whether the harm was caused intentionally or unintentionally. Even though the foregoing may seem crystal clear, there are a few complicating factors in your specific case. First of all, it was not you who caused the damage to the school’s property, it was your son. In Vietnam, anyone 18 years or older is personally liable to compensate for the damage he/she causes to others, but for minors under 15-years-old, another factor applies. According to the Civil Code, in principle the parents are liable to compensate for the damage caused by a minor. If the parents have insufficient property to compensate as a first step you could inform them If you don’t want to put too much and the minor who has caused the about their legal liability to compensate pressure on your relationship with the damage owns property of his or her for damages caused by your son during school, you can try to find a reasonable own, such property shall be used to school hours. The school would then solution to this issue together with the satisfy the outstanding amount of the have to prove that they were not at school. The Civil Code explicitly allows compensation. fault with respect to their supervisory parties to agree with each other on the Secondly, the accident happened at duties, which are normally detailed amount of compensation, on the form your son’s school. From a legal point in the school regulations. To further of compensation, on the payment of of view, this is interesting because the your defense, you could also argue compensation in installments, and on Civil Code states that, as a general that the school has failed to prevent the method of compensation. Another rule, the school must compensate for something like this from happening by possibility to avoid any quarrelling is the damage caused by a minor under allowing the children to play football to check with your insurance company 15-years-old during school hours. If in close vicinity to the windows of the first to see whether your son’s accident the school, however, proves that it classrooms. This is relevant because is covered by your liability insurance. was not at fault with respect to the the Civil Code provides that where the Good luck! supervision of the minor, the liability to aggrieved party itself is at fault, the Every month, Hadrien and Marijn compensate would shift back to you, as person having caused the damage shall answer legal questions from Oi readers. the parents of a 12-year-old. only be liable for a share of the damage If you have any legal questions you So if you are willing to challenge in proportion to the degree to which he want answered, send them to legal@ the claim made by your son’s school, or she was at fault. oivietnam.com.

95 The List Business & Tech China Consulate Myanmar Consulate property and casualty insurers, banks 39 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 50 Sam Son, Tan Binh insurance products include universal 3829 5009 5449 2425 life insurance, term life, whole life, riders, Asia Commercial Bank www.vn.china-embassy.org/eng/ www.gmas.com.vn and global personal accident. 442 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Mon-Fri: 8.30am - 11am Mon-Fri: 9am - 12pm; 2pm - 5pm; Sat: 9am 21st Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 39290999 China Consulate - Commercial Office - 12pm AIG Vietnam Bank of China 39 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 New Zealand Consulate AIG’s presence in Vietnam dates 19th Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 3823 1142 235 Dong Khoi, D1 back to the 1920s, although modern 3821 9949 [email protected] 3822 6907 operations began back in 2005. They www.hochiminh.mofcom.gov.cn Mon - Fri: 8.30am - 11.30am; 1.00pm - offer a wide range of personal and Citibank 5.00pm commercial insurance products. 15/F Sun Wah Tower, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 Cuba Consulate 9th Floor, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 3824 2267 45 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Nordcham 094 801 6318 3829 7350 12A Floor, Bitexco Building, 19-25 Nguyen Baoviet Insurance Corporation Mon-Fri: 8am - 11.30am; 1.30pm - 4.30pm Hue, D1 BaoViet is now the leading financial Commonwealth Bank 3821 5423 insurance group in Vietnam with more 65 Nguyen Du, D1 Denmark Consulate www.nordcham.com than 145 branches across 63 provinces. 3824 1525 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 23-25 Thai Van Lung, D1 012 1861 8695 3821 9373 Norway Consulate Mon-Thu: 8.30am - 4.30pm; Fri: 8.30am 21-23 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 BHNT Great Eastern HSBC - 3pm 3822 1696 Life assurance & financial plans for Metropolitan Bulding, 235 Dong Khoi, D1 Finland Consulate [email protected] customers of various age groups. The 3724 7247 Mon – Fri: 08.30am - 11.30am; 1.30pm - company’s focus is on promoting Room 501, 5/F Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, D1 4.30pm health and longevity - they have the Mizuho Corporate Bank 3827 2029 perfect incentive to do so, really. Panama Consulate 18th Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 France Consulate Level 8, 25 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 3827 8260 7A Le Thanh Ton, D1 27 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D1 3825 0334 Blue Cross Standard Chartered Bank 3520 6819 [email protected] Blue Cross Vietnam is a Medical www.consulfrance-hcm.org Saigon Trade Center 1st Floor, 37 Ton Duc Hon. Consulate of Portugal Insurance Administrator specializing in Thang, D1 Germany Consulate Health and Travel insurance in Asia.Our 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach competitive advantage is in our design 3911 0000 126 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 3820 0623 and administration of modern travel and 3829 2455 Shinhan Vietnam medical insurance plans; plans built for www.ho-chi-minh-stadt.diplo.de Russia Consulate 100 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 Mon-Fri: 8am - 11.30am; 1.30pm - 4.30pm people living and working in Vietnam. 3829 1581 40 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan, D3 Level 8, River View Tower, 7A Thai Van Lung, Hungary Consulate 3930 3936 D1. 3821 9908 Vietcombank www.russianconsulates.com 22 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 IGlobal Assist 2bis-4-6 Le Thanh Ton, D1 3829 0130 Consulate-General of The Republic of 3824 4797 Singapore Offers insurance programs offered by www.vietcombank.com.vn Iceland Consulate ACE, Liberty, Seven Corners and other 8th floor, Saigon Center, 65 Le Loi, D1 80 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D1 global insurers. Free consultation and 3822 5174 Mon-Fri: 9am - 5pm custom quotes for most lines of insurance concierge www.mfa.gov.sg including health, travel, home, auto, Consulate General of India Slovakia Consulate motorbike, property, liability, and personal Giup.me (help.me) 55 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, D3 accident. 64-68 Hai Ba Trung, D1 A local concierge service fluent in English, 3823 7050 www.iglobalassist.com 3829 8888 Vietnamese and Mandarin to assist in www.india-consulate.org.vn all your personal needs from finding an Mon-Fri: 8.30am - 12.30pm, 1 pm - 5pm South Korea Consulate IF Consulting apartment, domestic help and schools, IF Consulting has for 20 years provided 107 Nguyen Du, D1 to setting up a local company, renewing Indonesia Consulate advice to individuals and businesses in 3822 5757 visas, car services and arranging medical/ 18 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 assessing health/accident risk and finding Mon-Fri: 9am - 12pm; 1.30pm - 5pm legal services. They charge a flat rate 3825 1888 the best suitable solution. The company is VND175,000 per hour. Mon-Fri: 8am - 12pm; 2pm - 5pm Sweden Consulate independent and Vietnam-based. 7300 4487 (7300 GIUP) IBC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A Me Linh Square, 8A/11 Thai Van Lung, D1 [email protected] Italy Consulate D1 3823 6800 www.giup.me 81 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh Thanh www.insuranceinvietnam.com 08 6258 6473 Mon–Fri: 8am - 12pm; 1.30pm - 4.30pm Mon-Fri: 8am - 12pm; 1pm - 4pm Switzerland Consulate Liberty Mutual Insurance consulates Liberty Mutual is a 100% US-owned 42 Giang Van Minh, D2 Japanese Consulate general insurer licensed to provide 3744 6996 Australian Consulate-General 261 Dien Bien Phu, D3 insurance services directly to 08 3933 3520 47 Ly Tu Trong, D1 Thailand Consulate Vietnamese individuals and state- 8.30am - 11.30am; 1.15pm - 4.45pm owned enterprises as well as motor 3521 8100 77 Tran Quoc Thao, D3 Mon-Fri: 8.30am - 12pm; 1pm - 5pm Kuwait Consulate insurance. The Czech Republic Consulate 15th Floor, Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le Belgium Consulate 24 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 Duan, D1. 3812 5125 3827 0555 28 Mac Dinh Chi, D1 105 Duong Van An, D2 [email protected] 6281 8001 LIG Insurance Mon-Fri: 9am - 4pm The UK Consulate 9am - 11.30am on Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri 25 Le Duan, D1 The company provides property Laos Consulate 3829 8433 and casualty insurance, along with customer relations management and Cambodia Consulate 93 Pasteur, D1 automobile claims support services and 41 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 3829 7667 U.S. Consulate General Ho Chi Minh long-term insurance to individuals and 3829 2751 Mon-Fri: 8am - 11.30am; 1pm - 4.30pm City Mon-Fri: 7.30am - 11.30am; 2pm - 5pm 34 Le Duan, D1 corporations. Malaysia Consulate 3520 4610 Unit 809, 8th Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1 te x pats Consulate General of Canada 2 Ngo Duc Ke, D1 3821 9968 10th floor, The Metropolitan, 235 Dong 3829 9023 Ukraine Consulate Khoi, D1 [email protected] 22-24 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 McLarens Young International 3827 9899 Mon-Fri: 8am - 11.30am McLarens Young International is a Mon-Thu: 8.30am - 4.30pm global claims service provider that helps Mexico Consulate insurance our clients achieve timely and equitable Chile Consulate 215 A-B Hoang Van Thu, Phu Nhuan claims resolution. 79/1/1 Phan Ke Binh, D1 3844 5520 ACE Life Insurance 9th Floor, Yoco Building, 41 Nguyen Thi

3910 2903 Mon-Fri: 8am - 3pm One of the world’s largest multiline Minh Khai, D1. 3821 3316 A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013

96 Prudential Vietnam Unit 704, 7th Floor, Sunwah Tower, 115 Logical Moves is all about quality Prudential Vietnam is one of the Nguyen Hue, D1. 3821 4432 relocation service, best prices and well-arranged leading life insurers nationwide, also time. They have moved offices and providing a variety of financial solutions, Phuoc & Partners Company AGS Four Winds (Vietnam) household goods for many well-known with over 200 customer service centers, Phuoc & Partners is an independent Global leader in international removals international companies in Vietnam. branch offices and general agency and law and consulting firm with integrated & relocations, with 128 offices in 78 3941 5322 business partner offices. legal and tax practices. The firm enables countries, they can move you to/or www.logicalmoves.net Unit 25F, Saigon Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc clients to reduce their administrative from any location worldwide. Thang, D1 overhead and focus on core business 5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Santa Fe Relocation Service activities. Khac Khoan, D1 Door to door relocation service which 3910 1660 Room 1602, Level 16, Centec Tower, 35210071 promises to take the stress out of information technology [email protected] 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, D3 moving personal possessions from one www.agsfourwinds.com city - or country - to another. Also offers Asia Pacific Solutions PricewaterhouseCoopers pet relocations, records management, A software development and IT support Allied Pickfords home search and immigration help. service company, services include PwC boasts a thorough understanding One of the largest and most respected of the transitional economy of Vietnam www.santaferelo.com developing all kinds of engineering providers of moving services worldwide, [email protected] systems and implementing software and a wide knowledge of policies AP assumes complete responsibility solutions. and procedures covering investment, for all moving services through a single Suite 1201, 12th Floor, 111A Pasteur, D1 tax and accounting, and consulting point of contact. shipping 3825 1041 throughout the country. District 1. 0122 5141 848 NTT Communications Vietnam 4th Floor Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan, D1 HL Shipping Asian Tigers A worldwide freight forwarder offering NTT Com Vietnam delivers high- Pan-Asian moving firm with a perhaps quality ICT services to customers in real estate agencies dedicated, integral services in the unrivalled level of experience and international trade market providing Vietnam, providing voice and data expertise in packing, storing and communication infrastructure, and a reliable, customer-oriented, and Colliers International Vietnam moving a family’s treasured belongings cost-effective coverage of all shipping supporting SME throughout this region and beyond. 11th Floor, Sailing Tower, 111A Pasteur, D1 Globally, Colliers International is a needs, including a comprehensive 9th Floor, Unit 9.3, 3827 3646 leading commercial real estate services assessment of all costs and 9 Doan Van Bo, D4. 3826 7799 company offering comprehensive assurance of on-time delivery for Oracle Vietnam expertise to investors, owners and Crown Line each segment. Competent service in Oracle offers an optimized and fully tenants around the world. English direct from the MD Jeff Tran. integrated stack of business hardware Bitexco Office Building, 7th Floor, 19-25 Crown Line is a well-known Japanese moving firm now operating out of Ho 29 Huynh Van Banh, Ward 17, Phu Nhuan and software systems, lowering the cost Nguyen Hue, D1. 3823 3529 3995 6117 and complexity of IT implementation Chi Minh City. and management. Cushman & Wakefield Vietnam 60 Nguyen Van Thu, D1 Logitem Viet Nam Suite 25 & 26, Sunwah Tower, 115 Nguyen Their primary focus is on consultancy, Warehousing, shipping and Hue, D1 JVK International Movers brokerage, and investment across the Focused primarily on the international transportation, 100% Japanese owned. Prism Smart IT retail, office, and hospitality sectors. and local movement of household 23 Tran Nao, Binh An, D2 3744 2281 Prism is a foreign-owned Information Level 2, Pathfinder Building, 52 Dong Du, goods since 1979, JVK has established and Communications Technology D1. 6291 4707 itself as a leader in this unique Sagawa Express Vietnam company that offers IT Managed transportation field. Services and Total Business Solutions House Link 1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen A subsidiary of Sagawa Holdings to companies throughout Vietnam. House Link offers a wide array of Tat Thanh, D4. 3826 7655 Group, this firm specialises in 4th Floor, Yoco Building, 41 Nguyen Thi apartments and houses for lease all providing solutions to general Minh Khai, D1 over Ho Chi Minh City. Logical Moves logistics issues in Vietnam, and it has 23 Phung Khac Khoan, D1 They offer your belongings the best a general logistics certificate unique in 3824 5271 protection available with the latest this country. financial planning technology, experienced staff and 169 Dien Bien Phu, Ward 15, Binh Thanh Realty World equipment. With door to door services, 3840 9330 Total Wealth Management Focuses on real estate business, A team of experts available to offer consulting, managing, and marketing. advice and options on how to manage Currently they specialize in apartments, your wealth. 66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach office buildings, and villas. 3820 0623 111 Nguyen Huu Canh, Ward 22, Binh [email protected] Thanh. 3899 4979 Savills law firms Savills PLC is a global real estate services provider listed on the London Apex Law Stock Exchange. The Apex management system Avalon building, 53 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, represents a creative edge in meeting the D1. 3825 8598 evolving legal landscape in this country. Unit 4A2, 4F Nam Han Office Building, 65 The Nest Nguyen Du, D1. 3822 2942 The Nest is a customer-dedicated Baker & McKenzie property company focusing on leasing Baker & McKenzie is a law company luxurious properties in Saigon. French- with over 72 branches around the world, Vietnamese managed with over four including offices in Australia, China, years of property experience. Vietnam, Indonesia, Canada, and the 369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc Long B, D9 United States. Has a team of 4000 highly trained and insightful lawyers. 34th Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai recruiters Trieu, D1 Opus Recruitment JP Law Firm Opus group was originally a unit under J&P Law is a full-service law firm KPMG Thailand that defected to run providing the highest quality legal independently, focusing on quality services to both international and domestic clients, and its widely- executive searches. recognized practice areas include 2A Rolanno Offices, 128 Nguyen Phi Corporate, M&A and Finance. Khanh, Tan Dinh, D1 Level 7 - Room 702, 81-85 Ham Nghi, D1 Navigos Group & Vietnam Works Logos Law Firm Navigos Group provides recruitment Logos HCMC Office offers solutions in Vietnam. Services include comprehensive legal services in a VietnamWorks (which posts about 200 wide range of subject areas for foreign new jobs per day) and Navigos Search investors in Vietnam through highly (the leading recruitment firm in Vietnam). te x pats qualified lawyers licensed in Korea, 130 Suong Nguyet Anh, D1 Vietnam, and the United States. Unit 2002B, 72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh Odgers Berndtson Vietnam Khai, D3 3822 7161 A global firm specializing in the recruitment of senior level executives, Nishimura & Asahi the firm employs experienced Nishimura & Asahi is one of Japan’™s professionals from specific market premier full-service law firms, covering areas to provide discreet access to all aspects of domestic and international industry leaders.

©2013 A L istin g s C opy r i ht ©2013 business and corporate activity. Suite 1609, 1st Floor, 115 Nguyen Hue, D1

97 Faces & Places

International Week Time to Dive In

The gym at The British International School An Phu Primary Campus The denizens of HCMC cooled down at the the New was transformed into a Global Café whereby the parents from each BIS World's Splash Bar. This was the first of an ongoing represented country set up a market stall decorated in their country's Saturday pool party theme at the venue with DJs traditional colors or themes and provided a taster of food from their spinning tunes, and food stands and local artisans respective country for every child in the Primary campus to sample. showcasing their ware.

Images by Ngoc Tran Images by Adam Robert Young

98 99 100