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COMPLIMENTARY COPY COMPLIMENTARY COPY ENTARY COPY READ ME TAKE ME COMPLIMENTARY COPY COMPLIMENT VIETNAM MARCH 2014 1Year Anniversary Issue BRUSHED ASIDE The Disappearing Art of Calligraphy PAGE 30 HOLD THAT POSE Random Acts of Ballet PAGE 32 PARADISE FOR SALE An Island in Hawaii Unlike Any Other Oi PAGE 63 STORY Behind the Scenes 1 2 3 CO M PLIME ENTA N R TAR Y C O PREAD Y ME TAKE ME Y C O PY COMP COMP L IMEN L I M T E N T A R Y C O P A R Y C O P Y COMPLIM Y E NT VIETNAM MARCH 2014 1year Anniversary Issue BRUSHED ASIDE EVERYWHERE YOU GO The Disappearing Art of Calligraphy PAGE 30 HOLD THAT POSE Random Acts of Ballet PAGE 32 PARADISE FOR SALE Director XUAN TRAN An Island in Hawaii Unlike Any Other PAGE 63 Business Consultant ROBERT STOCKDILL oi [email protected] Story 093 253 4090 Behind the Scenes Managing Editor CHRISTINE VAN 1 [email protected] This Month’s Cover Deputy Editor JAMES PHAM Image: Adam Robert Young [email protected] Model: Tran Hoang Yen Researcher GEORGE BOND [email protected] Associate Publisher KHANH NGUYEN [email protected] Graphic Artists HIEN NGUYEN [email protected] NGUYEN PHAM [email protected] Staff Photographers ADAM ROBERT YOUNG NGOC TRAN Publication Manager HANG PHAN [email protected] 097 430 9710 For advertising please contact: KATE TU [email protected] 091 800 7160 NGAN NGUYEN [email protected] 090 279 7951 JIMMY VAN DER KLOET [email protected] 094 877 9219 JULIAN AJELLO [email protected] ƠI VIỆT NAM 093 700 9910 NHÀ XUẤT BẢN THANH NIÊN CHAU NGUYEN Chịu trách nhiệm xuất bản: Đoàn Minh Tuấn [email protected] Biên tập: Nguyễn Giang - Quang Hùng 091 440 0302 HANH (JESSIE) LE Thực hiện liên kết xuất bản: [email protected] Metro Advertising Co.,Ltd 098 747 4183 48 Hoàng Diệu, Phường 12, Quận 4 HUY TRAN (CENTRAL REGION) In lần thứ mười hai, số lượng 6000 cuốn, [email protected] khổ 21cm x 29,7cm 098 646 3579 Đăng ký KHXB: 1110-2013/CXB/4 -52/TN QĐXB số: 366/QĐ-TN/CN General [email protected] Chế bản và in tại nhà in Phụ Nữ Nộp lưu chiểu tháng 2/2014 Inquiries [email protected] Website: www.oivietnam.com 4 5 Contents SPECIAL FEATURE OI TURNS ONE A glimpse at what it takes to put a 22 monthly publication together FEATURES P10 DATEBOOK P32 HOLD THAT POSE P75 THE LONG DRESS With these events, you'll never have to be Random acts of ballet in Celebrating Vietnam’s iconic fashion statement – bored again the city the ao dai P16 TROI OI P40 WOK TALK WITH CHEF P80 LIVING IN THE PAST See why a telepathy scam and the soon-to-be MARTIN YAN A 400-page book about the history of Ho Chi Minh longest bridge in Southeast Asia made our Our one-on-one with one of the pioneers of City is about to launch, we speak to its author noteworthy numbers this month television cooking shows P84 MY LIFE As… A PARKING P18 THE BULLETIN P60 TREASURE MAP ATTENDANT Checking out the latest promotions and openings Throw away those generic tourist maps and A woman turns her home into a garage to eke out a discover Hanoi with a new and very cool living for her family P28 HORSE PLAY hand-drawn map that reveals hidden gems Vietnam’s first equestrian grand prix takes P92 STRENGTH IN NUMBERS place this month P63 PARADISE FOR SALE Mob-based discounts and why it sometimes doesn’t work Discover Lanai, Hawaii's most secluded P30 BRUSHED ASIDE island and once known as the pineapple capital of the world Meet the philosophical calligrapher who sets up shop on the street 6 7 WINE & DINE RESTAURANT REVIEWS Delicious Indian food, a fusion of German and Japanese cuisine, and a remix of local dishes are on this month’s menu 42 COLUMNS P27 SAIGON MYTHBUSTERS P68 POSTCARDS FROM VIETNAM P95 LEGAL EASE Is there really a ghost roaming around the Hearing music in the noise of Damage of property, who’s liable? HCMC Fine Arts Museum? the city P67 LIFE'S A TRIP P82 HIGHER LEARNING Abandon your inhibitions and discover the true The challenges girls face in school and society experience of traveling 8 Editor’s ISSUE NO. 12 Note MARCH 2014 Our Story THIS ISSUE MARKS an important that may soon be lost forever. As milestone for Oi. We are now one year old! someone recently engaged, Lanai with In the past year, we've striven to its wild beaches, gorgeous resorts and cover topics and stories that have been closeknit community ethos has jumped inspiring, controversial, decadent and to the top of my honeymoon destination everything in between. This issue is list (and ideal retirement home)! called Oi Story but it might as well Growing up in the US, I remember be "Our Story" because Oi is meant watching Yan Can Cook as a kid on to represent all of us, and what's near PBS, not necessarily because of the food and dear to us, living in Vietnam. To (that part was just a bonus) but because celebrate our one year anniversary, we of Chef Martin Yan's larger-than-life thought it'd be fun to let you in on what personality that was just so fun to it takes to produce a monthly publication watch. It was the rare show that parents from scratch, from the mundane of and children could watch together, and meetings and deadlines to the sublime of plus the food he was cooking was more snagging a great interview or writing a accessible to my mom compared to the story that people really respond to. Also fine French cuisine of Julia Child. I think in this issue, our photographers give us a I also had a soft spot for him because glimpse of the work required to produce he reminded me of my dad, both with a cover, from concept to execution, that their thick Asian accents and skill in the readers will want to pick up. kitchen. Oi talks to Chef Yan about what While our small team here at Oi all it was like to be an Asian pioneer before contribute to the magazine, the largest cooking shows took over the world and personality of all is still Saigon herself also on his love affair with Vietnamese and we're featuring the city as a gorgeous cuisine. backdrop in two articles. Michael Arnold Something else that you may not talks to historian Tim Doling on the know about me is that I'm all about the city's disappearing historical architecture discounts. Whether it's clipping coupons, in Living in the Past and photographer subscribing to frequent diners cards Adam Robert Young captures random at restaurants or ferreting out specials acts of ballet set against some of Saigon's and promotions, I go to great lengths to most iconic locations. I'm sure you'll snag a deal. In Strength in Numbers, share my amazement at the strength and James Pham covers the pros and cons of grace of these dancers as they elevate a the social buying scene in Vietnam, and park bench into the role of a supporting whether there are some deals which are character, a shuttlecock into an air rocket really too good to be true. and the act of eating pho into a balancing I'd like to speak for all of us at to act. say "Thank you!" for coming on this Our travel lovers will appreciate the journey with us over the past year. pair of destinations we have for you this Here's to many more! month. For a convenient getaway, we're featuring hidden Hanoi with the help of a new and very cool hand-drawn map. Jura Cullen uncovers some of Hanoi's lesser known charms in Treasure Map while James Pham takes you to the tiny CHRISTINE VAN island of Lanai (Hawaii), a true paradise Managing Editor 9 Datebook Fill up your calendar with these exciting events MARCH 7 What: Eclectic Night Where: The Observatory, corner of Le Lai and Ton That Tung, D1; 10pm till late About: The Observatory presents DJ Maft Sai, known for his vast eclectic and unique collection of rare vinyl. He will showcase years of his extensive research, digging and DJ-ing as the boss of an eclectic record label. Entrance fee costs VND150,000. Contact: Call 3925 9415 for tickets and inquiries MARCH 7 What: Hong Kong Bound: AAF Preview Exhibition Where: Craig Thomas Gallery, 27i Tran Nhat Duat, D1; 6pm - 8pm About: The exhibition is a preview of selected works by 10 artists that CTG will be showing at the Affordable Art Fair (AAF) in Hong Kong. The works comprise of the figurative and abstract, mixed media, oil and acrylic painting, woodburn sculpture and installation. The artists included are Lim Khim Ka Ty, Bui Thanh Tam, Lieu Nguyen Huong Duong, Pham Huy Thong, Tran Minh Tam, Nguyen The Hung, Bui Tien Tuan, Tran Quoc Tuan, Luong Luu Bien and Ngo Van Sac. Established in 2009, CTG is a natural evolution of its founder’s decade long involvement in the Vietnamese art scene and the relationships developed with artists, curators and collectors during that time. The gallery is focused on supporting the development of young, emerging to mid-career Vietnamese artists and providing them with a platform to present their work to a wider audience.