Sep 2015 Charan Singh Documenting India’s marginalised 12 communities Dal Chodha Understanding the global fashion market Caren Hartley Handcrafting bespoke bicycles William McGregor Directing Poldark
CREATIVE UPDATE 02 CONTENTS WELCOME 03
Latest news 04 UCA Alumni Team Hilde Krohn Huse 08 Hanging around Angela Chadwick Head of Communications Catman 10 & PR The artist behind the mask Charan Singh 12 Carys Waters KMZٻExploring India’s sexual identities +WUU]VQKI\QWV[7 Sam Brewer 16 Tim Pilgrim KMZٻA career built at UCA +WUU]VQKI\QWV[7 William McGregor 20 Directing Poldark Get in touch [email protected] Welcome Arnold Schwartzman 24 www.ucreative.ac.uk A serendiptious career Wana Udobang 28 Designed by UCA alumni to Issue 12 Touching lives in Nigeria She Was Only shewasonly.co.uk Roy Kimani 30 Hello, and welcome again to Creative A platform for success Printed by Asendia Update. From the highs of working alongside Caren Hartley 34 Orson Wells and Elizabeth Taylor on an Bespoke designs Cover image made Oscar winning documentary, to the lows of by Caren Hartley accidently being left hanging naked from a Peter Allinson 38 and photographed by tree in Norway, we’ve got a jam-packed Issue A graphics career in motion Sebastien Klein 12 lined up. Above Sam Brewer — Mark Harrison 40 In this edition we speak with Canterbury’s A career built at UCA p.16 Meet the man who shoots celebrites answer to Banksy, get a behind-the-scenes look at the BBC’s primetime drama Poldark, and Right Meet Mark Harrison, Tina Edwards 44 the man who shoots take a fascinating peek through the curtain celebrities p. 40 Carving a niche & all that jazz shrouding India’s transgender communities. Mary Branson 46 We also look at the more unusual places a Below Roy Kimani, a KZMI\Q^MLMOZMMKIV\ISMaW]XZWÅTQVO+IZMV platform for success p.30 Q&A with the artist Hartley, who’s putting her craft education to Hong Khaou 48 use producing bespoke bikes. 6W[]KP\PQVOI[I[\ZIQOP\ÅTU With the most recent group of graduates Nat Urwin 50 now unleashed into a highly competitive job One year on market, where initial pay can be low and the hours long, we’re more keen than ever Dal Chodhra 52 \WÅTTW]ZXIOM[_Q\P[\WZQM[\PI\QV[XQZMIVL Worldy wise encourage and show just how worthwhile a Abhishek Kochhar 54 creative education can be. So if you have a Bringing traditional craft to story that you think will be of interest to other alumni, or have a subject related to the creative the department store industries which you think should be covered more often, please get in touch and you and your ideas could well appear in Issue 13.
The UCA Alumni Team [email protected] 04 NEWS NEWS 05
Fashion student photographs Alexa Chung shoot for Nails Inc
Second year BA (Hons) Fashion Promotion & Imaging M`XTIQVML*M\PIVa¹1ZMITTaMVRWaMLXZW^QLQVOI[QUQTIZ UCA concludes year of student Kathryn Younger photographed Nail Inc’s opportunity to a Fashion Promotion & Imaging student and seasonal shoot starring Alexa Chung, whilst on an being an alumna and a great advocate of UCA, I wouldn’t league table climbs with internship provided by a recent UCA graduate. have chosen anywhere else to advertise the position.” Bethany started working at Nails Inc two days after substantial NSS gains With her behind the scenes role as photographer for the day, graduating from UCA as a PA to the company’s founder and 3I\PZaVJTMVLMLQV\W\PMJIKSOZW]VL\WKIX\]ZM\PM[PWW\ CEO, with the help of the experience gained on her degree ¹1TW^ML\PMNZMMLWU\WR][\OWIJW]\UaW_V\PQVO placement module in second year. Applying her knowledge UCA has bucked the national trend by recent Sunday Times University Guide, IVLWJ[MZ^MPW_M^MZaWVM_WZSMLº[IQL3I\PZaV of design, photography and fashion where she could, she increasing student satisfaction by four where UCA climbed 25 places, and in The NZWU;\M^MVIOM¹1\_I[INIV\I[\QKQV[QOP\QV\W[MMQVOPW_ got the chance to move into a design role and is now doing percentage points for the second year Guardian’s subject tables where UCA entered M^MZaWVM_WZSMLWVI[PWW\WN \PQ[[KITM1KIVKWVÅZU\PI\ what she loves. As lead graphic designer, Bethany manages running. the Architecture top 10 and the Fashion & Alexa is as beautiful in real life as she is in photos!” all photography and image production, including producing Textiles top 20. 3I\PZaV_I[[MTMK\MLNWZI_WZSM`XMZQMVKMXTIKMUMV\ and art directing seasonal campaign shoots. According to the National Student Survey UCA’s Vice-Chancellor Professor Simon by BA (Hons) Fashion Promotion & Imaging 2012 3I\PZaVNW]VLW]\IJW]\\PMWXXWZ\]VQ\aI\6IQT[1VK (NSS) results, released in August, 81% of 7ÅMTL3MZZ[IQL"¹7^MZ\PMTI[\\PZMMaMIZ[ graduate Bethany Duckworth, now Lead Graphic through her course at UCA. Now commencing her third =+)¼[ÅVITaMIZ[\]LMV\[_MZM[I\Q[ÅML_Q\P _MPI^M\ISMV[WUM[QOVQÅKIV\[\MX[\W Designer for cosmetics at Nails Inc, who got in touch with year, she transferred to BA (Hons) Fashion Promotion & their educational experience. The survey, enhance the student experience here at UCA. UCA with the opportunity. Imaging at Epsom after realising a Photography degree at which showed satisfaction remain largely We have invested in the campus environment ¹3I\PZaVPILIOZMI\MaMNWZLM\IQTIVLKIX\]ZMLI Bath Spa wasn’t right for her. static elsewhere across the country, explores and set ourselves rigorous standards when it sense of atmosphere and in a fresh and modern way,” ¹1NW]VL\PM.I[PQWV8ZWUW\QWV1UIOQVOKW]Z[M MZMV\IZMI[QVKT]LQVO[\]LMV\ comes to providing feedback to students and [IQL*M\PIVa_PWKPW[M3I\PZaV\W_WZS_Q\PPMZ and was completely blown away that it even existed,” saidٺIZIVOMWN LQ views on feedback, the support they receive, supporting their creative development. JMKI][M[PM_I[QUXZM[[ML_Q\PPMZXWZ\NWTQW¹1\[PW_ML 3I\PZaV¹ Former students work on Avengers: Age of Ultron Former students have found themselves reunited in which made my job that bit more satisfying!” the professional world – behind the scenes of one of Having left UCA into a sales job, Benjamin began his ]MK\[_WZSI[PWZ\_PQTMTI\MZI[I[M\IVLXZWXٺthe summer’s biggest box-office hits, Avengers: [XMKQITM Age of Ultron. assistant in television. ¹1LQL\PI\NWZIKW]XTMWN aMIZ[JMNWZM\ISQVOIKW]Z[M Benjamin Crean, Eliot Speed and James Paul HattSmith, QVUW]TLUISQVOº[IQL*MVRIUQV¹;PWZ\TaIN\MZ1_I[ MZML_WZS_Q\P\PMO]a_PW\I]OP\\PMKW]Z[MUISQVOٺGraduate secures who all graduated from UCA Farnham in 2004, found W MZMV\ZWTM[WV\PM[UI[P props for commercials and corporate events, as well asٺPMU[MT^M[_WZSQVOQVLQ\ New York Fashion Week superhero movie, which has so far taken over $800m at stone casting and refurbishment. cinemas worldwide. ¹1NW]VLUa[MTN LZQN\QVON]Z\PMZI_IaNZWU_PI\ slot ¹1\_I[IP]OMRWJNWZUMº[IQL)VQUI\QWVOZIL]I\M I wanted out of my career and took the plunge to go Benjamin, who worked for over eight months as a costume NZMMTIVKM4WWSQVO\WOM\QV\WÅTU1\WWSIXZW[\PM\QK[ XZWXUWLMTTMZWV\PMUW^QM¹Q\_I[\PMÅZ[\\QUM1PIL make up course at Millenium FX. This lasted seven weeks been asked to run a mould shop. and was the best £5,000 I have ever spent. Fashion designer and recent UCA graduate playing against the West,” said Meagan, who ¹4]KSQTa\PM\MIU1_I[_WZSQVO_Q\PIZMITTNIV\I[\QK ¹1QUUMLQI\MTa[\IZ\MLIXXTaQVONWZ_WZSI\M^MZaXZWX Meagan Wellman will see her designs on Q[IVLJI[MLQV4WVLWV¹ ?PMVÅVMIZ\OZIL]I\MHilde Krohn Huse found herself accidently hanging alone by one foot naked from a tree in Norway, she may have thought ‘this could make for a good story one day.’ What she probably never considered though was just how many people would end up hearing it. Hanging around graduate’s international All The accidental art sensation - how press exposure the media covered Hilde's story ¹1PILWZOIVQ[MLIZM[QLMVKaIVL_I[QV Given that ‘artist is left hanging naked had jumped from 300 views to over half a Hilde Krohn Huse Norway with four artists,” Hilde, who is from tree’ may be a story that was tricky to million – Hilde plumped for the latter. BA (Hons) Fine Art originally from Norway but now lives and keep tasteful, interviews were arranged with a Within days, The Times had dedicated UCA Farnham, 2012 works in London told UCA. selected group of media outlets – Norwegian page three to Hilde’s story, BBC Newsnight QV\W paper VG, local news group the Surrey were using the video to close the evening’sٺPQTM1PILINZMMLIa1_MV\W?¹ \PM_WWL[\WÅTU[WUMNWW\IOMNWZI[MZQM[WN Advertiser, and BBC Surrey, who were all show and ITV were tweeting her to get an ÅTU[1_I[XTIVVQVO1_WV¼\[XWQTQ\J]\\PQVO[ delighted to run such a quirky, bad-situation- interview. By the end of the week, Dazed and didn’t go to plan and I was stuck in a horrible made-good story. Confused had described her as an ‘accidental situation for longer than anyone wants to be. However, as news sometimes has a art sensation.’ I still have a scar around my ankle over a tendency to do, it spread. First the Daily At the time of writing this, over 200 news year later.” Mail picked up on it from VG. Then The organisations, from over 20 countries, have run Whereas many would have vowed to Mirror, the Daily Star, The Daily Record the story of Hilde’s naked Norwegian mishap. never let another living soul see the resulting and The Independent all ran stories. Within But how does Hilde hope people have ?MZMV\ three days of the article appearing on VG, reacted to the storyٺNWW\IOM0QTLMLMKQLML\W\ISMILQ approach – she entered it for inclusion over 50 outlets, from Germany to Vietnam, ¹1PWXM\PMaNMMT]VKWUNWZ\IJTMº[PM\MTT[ into the prestigious Bloomberg New had run the story. Hilde’s naked backside ][JT]V\Ta¹ Do you have any consistent themes that you align your What are your career goals? Catman work with? BA (Hons) Fine Art, 4I[\aMIZ1ZMIKPML\PMÅVITWN \PM ?WZTL;\MVKQT UCA Canterbury A consistent theme is vital with stencil art because if Art Prize in Sydney, so at some point I would love to win .K]T\\W it. That would be an amazing achievement for meٻM^MZaWVMQ[][QVO\PM[IUM\MKPVQY]MQ\KIVJMLQ create an identity for yourself as an artist. One of my major goals is to get to a stage in my career I have recently started producing a series of paintings where my art allows me to travel. I look up to the high-end incorporating old masters i.e. Rembrandt, Leonardo da mural and street artists who are now getting the opportunities Vinci and Johannes Vermeer, and I always try to ensure \WÆaITTW^MZ\PM_WZTL\WXIQV\\PMQZIZ\WVJ]QTLQVO[ \PI\MIKPXIQV\QVOQ[LQ[\QVK\TaQLMV\QÅIJTMI[UaW_V because this strengthens my reputation and means that What is your favourite piece to date? MMٺpeople can recognise Catman pieces. )KWUUQ[[QWV\PI\1XZWL]KMLNWZIPQOPMVLKW MM4IJITTW_MLUM\W_WZSWVI[KITMٺPWXKITTML\PM+W] What do you enjoy most about your work? that I had never had the opportunity to before. It was a 3m 1LMÅVQ\MTaMVRWa\PMNZMMLWU\PI\1PI^MI[IVIZ\Q[\ by 3m wall and I ended up producing a North American I like not knowing exactly what I’m going to be Red Indian woman. We created a 14 hour time lapse video producing or where it’s going to be. Other careers are condensed into a minute and I think that I nailed it. very planned out and that wouldn’t suit me. I like the ad The Mona Lisa piece that I did on a street wall in PWKVI\]ZMWN Ua[\ZMM\IZ\ An urban street artist and UCA Fine Art graduate, known How do you plan what you’re going to make next and only as Catman, is causing a stir in Whitstable as his art where it’s going to be? pops up overnight on walls and street corners. Refusing I have learned that the placement of a piece can be to reveal his true identity, Catman gives us an insight into almost as important as the piece itself. I like to incorporate his public art and commissions, and reveals his thoughts the surrounding environment in my street pieces, for about being labeled Kent’s very own Banksy. example my ‘Santa is real’ and the ‘Penguins’ pieces. Often I’ll just be walking down a street and I see a wall How would you describe your work? or a particular feature that sparks an idea in my head, and Multi-layer, stencil-based street art. a concept for a piece just hits me. The urban art scene is very competitive and we are Why do you stay anonymous and where did the name all really inspired by each other. I’ve found that you don’t ‘Catman’ come from? necessarily need to be the best artist, but that a greater I have to remain anonymous to avoid prosecution. sense of imagination is more important and raises your Essentially I am painting walls without permission. The XZWÅTMI[IVIZ\Q[\ name ‘Catman’ comes down to a nickname that my As an artist that uses stencil work, I’ve naturally been friends gave me well before I began producing street art. It compared to Bansky. And it’s true, he is the reason why I Previous page Catman’s comes down to my love of cats and nothing more exciting and the majority of other stencil artists are creating the portrait of Nelson Mandela J]\Q\IXXMIZ[ _WZS\PI\_MIZM-^MVQN 1¼UVW\LQZMK\TaQVÆ]MVKMLJaٺ1LQL\ZaUaPIZLM[\\W[PISMQ\W PIV\PI\\ to have stuck… *IVS[a1ÅVLUa[MTN WN\MV\ISQVOQV[XQZI\QWVNZWUIVW\PMZ Left Catman’s commission for Coffee Lab artist whom Banksy was originally motivated by, such as Blek le Rat. Above Santa is Real 12 FEATURES CHARAN SINGH 13 Charan Singh is a photographer _PWLWK]UMV\[\PM3W\PQ (underprivileged, homosexual men), Hijra (eunuch), and Giriya XIZ\VMZ[WN 3W\PQIVL0QRZI communities in India, where practising non-heterosexual relationships is essentially illegal. Exploring India’s sexual identities He began his work in these communities after ÅVQ[PQVO[KPWWT_PMVPMRWQVMLIOZW]X_PW would meet to discuss HIV activism. After forming a small organisation which worked with HIV NGOs, he moved on to work XZWNM[[QWVITTaQV\PMÅMTL_Q\P\PM=6IVL government organisations. ¹1\PMVUM\[WUMXMWXTMNZWU=+) Anna Fox and Sunil Gupta, and they told me I should document these stories,” said Charan Singh, Charan, who moved from his native Delhi to MFA Photography, \PM=3QV UCA Farnham, 2014 ¹1_I[ITZMILaLWK]UMV\QVO\PM[\WZQM[J]\ I was using photography to record what we 14 FEATURES DAL CHODHA 15 were doing at that time, the meetings that were taking place, and events that we were doing. ¹1NMT\1_I[[\]KSQV\PMUQLLTM_WZSQVO with the NGOs and the government, but the law was not there to help. ¹;W1[\IZ\ML\PQVSQVOIJW]\PW_1KW]TL tell these stories, without being constrained by the law. We could only focus on the HIV work, and not on the other parts of their lives. We can’t talk about their sexuality, about what they want to be. When I started with the photography, I realised that this could be how I can talk about these people. This work comes from there – it marries my HIV and activism work with art and photography.” When Charan began to research Indian photography, he found a particular style popular in images from the Raj period, which he felt could be appropriated for a series on people from lower classes. ¹AW]¼L[MM\PMXZQVKM[IVLXZQVKM[[M[QV particular poses. But there wasn’t much about people from other classes, so I thought it’d be interesting to use the formality of the studio posed images for portraits of working-class people,” said Charan. Photographing in India’s working class communities, Charan used cultural references his models would understand in order to get them to adopt appropriate poses and postures for the series. ¹5W[\XMWXTMLWV¼\OW\WIZ\U][M]U[WZ study art, especially people from a working class background,” said Charan. ¹.WZUM*WTTa_WWLKQVMUI_I[\PM only medium for my visual education. For the people in the portraits too, it’s the only connection they have. So when they express themselves, they only have cinema, so I asked them to use that as their reference and try and imitate that.” Having graduated from UCA with distinction, Charan has now been accepted into the Royal College of Art, where he will begin working on his PhD in photography. Above, right and previous page The anonymous models strike poses influenced by Bollywood 16 FEATURES DAL CHODHA 17 Samantha Brewer reveals how, unbeknown to her, architecture was in her blood, and shares her experience of UCA as both a student and IXZWNM[[QWVITIZKPQ\MK\NWZQV\MZVI\QWVITÅZU Pascall + Watson. A career built at UCA How did your interest in architecture develop? My journey to architecture is an unusual one, as I pretty much fell into it by accident. I knew I wanted to study at university, but I didn’t know what to focus on. I eventually decided on the Interior Design course at UCA +IV\MZJ]ZaJ]\1_I[[QUXTaÆaQVOJa\PM Samantha Brewer [MI\WN UaXIV\[ .WZ\PMÅZ[\aMIZ\PM1V\MZQWZ BA(Hons) Design and the Architecture courses are Architecture combined, and at the end of the year I knew RIBA Part I, UCA the Architecture side was right up my street. Canterbury, 2009 It wasn’t until I called my grandad to tell him Postgraduate that he told me he used to be an architect Diploma in before he was a pilot in the war. I knew Architecture nothing about his architecture background RIBA Part II, UCA and it was quite a surprise; perhaps it’s fate Canterbury, 2013 that I ended up in this industry. 18 FEATURES SAMANTHA BREWER 19 UCA is one of my clients, and the project at UCA will form part of the next stage of my training. Swings and roundabouts… What do you remember most about your time at UCA as a student? There are two major aspects of UCA \PI\IZMXZM\\a]VQY]M What is an average day like for you at Can you tell us more about the project you’re Pascall + Watson? working on for UCA? An average day is hard to describe as it This project is a modest building depends what projects I’m working on at the comprising four new design studios that are time and what stage they’re at. For example, plugging into the existing Further Education the UCA Epsom project is in construction building at UCA Epsom. Part of a 10 year at the moment which means I often get the master-plan for redevelopment across all opportunity to go down to site for meetings the campuses, the new studios have been and to see how the building is coming KMٻdesigned to be incredibly versatile spaces that ITWVO5W[\WN Ua\QUMQ[[XMV\QV\PMW need to change their function throughout the working on drawings, documentation or year; they’ll be used as seminar rooms, craft submissions. But I have also been lucky studios, presentation spaces as well as public enough to be able to go to a couple of bid exhibition galleries. It’s an exciting project interviews. These are quite high-pressure as that is progressing incredibly quickly. the bid interview is normally where a job is won or lost for the practice. What’s it like working on a project at the Previous page and top university you graduated from a few years What are your most exciting and proudest University of Sussex Top One of Samantha’s Childcare Centre, one ago? achievements so far in your career? projects, University of of Samantha’s projects It presents an interesting dynamic for So far I’m most proud of my Sussex Childcare Centre (photography by me! Having studied at UCA, I have a certain postgraduate diploma thesis. I worked so (photography by Jim (QV\PMMVL StephensonٺJim Stephenson - sentimental connection to the project. It’s PIZLLIaIVLVQOP\IVLQ\XIQLW clickclickjim.com) also forming my case study for my RIBA Part But I am very excited to see the studios at Above Image from Above The construction IZKPQ\MK\¼[Y]ITQÅKI\QWV;W1_I[\ZIQVMLI\ -X[WUÅVQ[PMLQV;MX\MUJMZ[WOQ^MQ\INM_ Samantha’s postgraduate site at UCA Epsom UCA, I am now working in a practice where months and it may change! diploma work 20 FEATURES WILLIAM MCGREGOR 21 Directing Poldark William McGregor BA (Hons) Digital Film & Screen Arts, UCA Farnham, 2010 When the BBC decided to bring cult Cornish period-yarn Poldark sailing back onto our screens after a forty year hiatus, they needed a safe pair of hands to keep the ship steady. To graduate William McGregor’s surprise, they asked him. 22 FEATURES WILLIAM MCGREGOR 23 ¹1\_I[ITUW[\M`IK\TaIaMIZIOW\PI\1 Independence. Staring The Hobbit’s Aidan read the scripts for Poldark,” said William, Turner, and Eleanor Tomlinson (The White who graduated from Digital Film & Screen 9]MMV2IKS\PM/QIV\;TIaMZÅTUQVONWZ Arts at UCA Farnham in 2010. the prime-time drama took place over twelve ¹1\PW]OP\Q\_I[UW^QVOIVLMXQK weeks in the summer of 2014. and dramatic, and something that would It’s the second time the BBC has chosen be rewarding to do. So I went along for a to adapt Winston Graham’s series of Poldark MZML novels, with the original series, which hasٺUMM\QVOQ\_MV\Y]Q\M_MTTIVL\PMaW me the job! I was quite surprised because since gained a cult following, running from I think traditionally you’d go with a more 1975 to 1977. experienced director for a Sunday night ¹1LQLV¼\ZMITTa_I\KP\WWU]KPWN \PM drama on the BBC.” original series because I just wanted to make William found himself shooting on our version,” said William. _PMJIKSWN PQ[ ¹1SVW_ITW\WN XMWXTMTW^ML\PI\[PW\ٺWZV_ITT¼[JMI]\QN]TKWI[\TQVMW+ previous work on E4’s BAFTA-winning science but for me I hadn’t heard of it - it aired 10 ÅK\QWV5Q[Å\[IVLPQ[WVOWQVOKWUUMZKQIT years before I was born. I can see why people work, which includes directing Pepsi’s striking love it because of the characters, the story, the 2014 Super Bowl advert. performances, but for me I found it quite dated. ¹1\¼[WVMWN \PW[M\PQVO[_PMZMIN\MZ It was brilliant, but very much of its period.” 5Q[Å\[1[\IZ\MLOM\\QVOUWZM<>[KZQX\[ William joined the production as the but I’ve tried to be selective as it’s a big second block director, tasked with directing commitment - you have to put your heart and MXQ[WLM[Å^M\WMQOP\IT\PW]OPI[ÅTUQVO soul into something like that, so you want to progressed he was brought in to shoot parts make sure that it’s the right project.” WN \PMÅZ[\MXQ[WLMQVKT]LQVO\PM[MZQM[¼ Below Poldark tells the Set in 1783, Poldark tells the story of a dramatic opening. story of one man’s turbulent young-man’s turbulent return to his Cornish William found himself working closely Above left William (right) that the show's larger set-pieces could be ¹AW]PI^M\WUISM[]ZM_PI\aW]¼ZM return to Cornwall home following the American War of _Q\P\PM_ZQ\MZ,MJJQM0WZ[ÅMTL\WMV[]ZM with stars Aidan Turner and visualised on screen in a way that carried doing on the day, in a really rushed Eleanor Tomlinson the story, but didn’t break the budget. schedule, is truthful, otherwise people won’t Above right Poldark ¹ Arnold Schwartzman NDD Graphic Design, Canterbury, 1955 The serendipitous career of Arnold Schwartzman ¹1ZMUMUJMZ*IZZa5IVQTW_[IaQVO\WUM»1N virtually every person I asked agreed. I could aW]WVTaPILQ\WVWVMXQMKMWN ÅTUaW]KW]TL ask anyone, so I wrote to Saul Bass - a big hero enter it for the Academy Awards.’” And so of mine when I was a design student - to ask if goes the serendipitous career of Oscar-winner he'd do one. I even kept one recipe especially Arnold Schwartzman. for him - sea bass! I didn't hear anything back. Beginning between the wars in the "Then, just before the cookbook was about Dickensian workhouse that had inspired the to go to press, I received a phone call and it story of Oliver Twist a century earlier, the was Saul. He said 'I'm in London making a tale of Arnold's rise from a recent graduate NMI\]ZMÅTUIVLQN Q\[VW\\WWTI\M1LJMPIXXa of the Canterbury School of Art, now UCA to design this recipe for you. Why don't you Canterbury, to the top table of the Hollywood come over to my hotel this evening and we can establishment is one of being in the right place have dinner.'" at the right time, and forging connections from After a meeting in which they 'got on like the most unlikely of circumstances. IPW][MWVÅZM)ZVWTLZM\]ZVML\WPQ[TQNMI[ "A few years after graduating I was working young graphic designer, happy to have got the on a charity cookbook for underprivileged WXXWZ\]VQ\a\WJZQMÆa_WZS_Q\PWVMWN PQ[ children," said Arnold, talking at the Creative heroes. But a few months later, Saul was back Challenge 2015 in London. on the phone. Above Elizabeth Taylor (right) narrates Genocide, "I invited well known designers, artists and Arnold continued, "He asked me, 'are you Arnold’s (left) Oscar- photographers to visually interpret recipes, and interested in being the design director at winning documentary 26 FEATURES ARNOLD SCHWARTZMAN 27 my studio in Hollywood?' I said I was very "It all seemed to be on track until the Right Rabbi Marvin Hier ÆI\\MZMLJ]\LQLV\_IV\\WTMI^MUaPWUM President of the LA Olympic Committee did (left) and Elizabeth Taylor in London. a deal with ABC television. In exchange for (right) go through their lines with Arnold "But he said, 'I'll tell you what, I'll send you the South American rights, they'd make the a ticket, why don't you come out and spend a documentary. But because we'd been meeting Below Left One of Arnold’s week with me, and if it doesn't work out, you've all this time, they said 'well then, how would you Olympic posters had a free trip to Los Angeles." like to be the director of design?'" Below Right Arnold began 37 years later, Arnold and his wife Isolde =VM`XMK\MLTaÅVLQVOPQU[MTN \PMLQZMK\WZ designing Oscar posters are still in Hollywood. of design for the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics, in 1996 "I only actually ended up staying with Arnold set about his work, designing such icons him for six months, because I realised I didn't as the Olympic torch and the tournament actually like the idea of running a studio. I just posters. Such was his success in the role, 28 wanted to do my own thing,” said Arnold. years and an OBE later, he was brought in to "Then one evening Saul took Isolde and consult on the 2012 London Games. me out to dinner, and during the conversation In the years following the LA Olympics, he told me that he'd been asked by a museum Arnold continued his work in graphic to make a short documentary about the LM[QOVIVLÅTUK]TUQVI\QVOQVPQ[!! _IZ Holocaust. He was too busy to do it, so he said, documentary Liberation, narrated by Ben 'well if you've got nothing lined up, why don't 3QVO[TMa8I\ZQKS;\M_IZ\IVL?PWWXQ/WTLJMZO you do it?'” "By this time I was very much involved Arnold took on the job, growing the project with The Academy as a member of the over the next two and a half years from a small documentary executive committee, as was Saul scale short museum documentary, to a feature Bass, who'd been designing the commemorative length technical masterpiece narrated by 7[KIZXW[\MZ[NWZ\PMXI[\Å^MaMIZ[?PMV;I]T Orson Welles and Elizabeth Taylor. passed away, the president of The Academy 8ZM[MV\MLJaÅZ[\KTI[[RW]ZVITQ[UIT]UVI Twitter. She’s also recently taken herself hosting a children’s programme, to a laid back When Ebong Essienkan Wana Udobang Wana Udobang and aired on Nigerian JMPQVL\PMKIUMZI\W[PWW\PMZVM_ÅK\QWVIT music show, to a serious hard interview. was blinded in an armed BA (Hons) television and YouTube, Touching Lives is a web-series, room 313. ¹1\KIVJMIJQ\LMUIVLQVOJ]\Q\¼[ILLML Journalism, mixture of documentary and talk show which ¹1\PQVS[\]LaQVOQV\PM=3\I]OP\UMI value and taught me a lot about connecting ]MZMV\[WZ\[WN XMWXTMI[_MTTIٺrobbery in 2013, it Farnham, 2007 aims to shine light on the hardships faced by great deal of professionalism, simplicity as _Q\PLQ ordinary people. _MTTI[ÆM`QJQTQ\a*]\UW[\QUXWZ\IV\TaPW_ relatability. Our audience is so diverse in both seemed that his promising What’s unusual about Touching to work with a global standard in mind even age and social status, it’s a delicate balancing career as a computer Lives is that it’s sponsored and produced \PW]OPUa_WZSUIaJMWN TWKIT[QOVQÅKIVKM act not to isolate anyone.” as a Corporate Social Responsibility ¹.TM`QJQTQ\aJMKI][MaW]IZMM`XW[ML\W Not wanting to isolate anyone doesn’t ,MZMV\JZWILKI[\QVOVM\_WZS[IVLKPIVVMT[ only extend as far as her audience howeverٺprogrammer might be (CSR) initiative by a large multinational LQ telecommunications company. The show and with those come diverse audiences. This with those who ultimately pay for the content over. After he appeared blurs the line between journalism, television means that you learn to adapt very quickly. also having to be dealt with delicately when programme and PR. In Ebong’s case, his story ¹1V6QOMZQI_PMZM\PMUIZSM\Q[VW\I[ picking what to work on. on Wana Udobang’s show Left and below Wana was told through a short documentary, he [MOUMV\MLI[\PM=3aW]\aXQKITTaPI^MUWZM Udobang’s career spans TV, ¹5W[\WN \PMUMLQIQV6QOMZQIQ[XZQ^I\MTa however, it may now just talked about his experience in front of a live ZM[XWV[QJQTQ\QM[º[Ia[?IVI¹1KIVUW^MNZWU radio, print and online owned. This means that there are stories and be back on track. studio audience, and then he was presented by topics you can’t cover or delve too deep into for the sponsor with a new computer, complete fear of losing advertising revenue, and that is with braille machine and speech software. always a challenge,” says Wana. ¹ Entrepreneurism is in Roy Kimani’s ¹1VM^MZZMITTaKWV[QLMZMLPI^QVOIRWJ?WZSQVO for someone else just wasn’t an option for me,” blood. The co-founder and CEO PM[Ia[ A platform Above The Nideo platform for success Roy Kimani BA (Hons) Graduate start up Product Design, UCA Rochester, 2011 hosts 17,000 videos 32 FEATURES ROY KIMANI 33 Left Roy Kimani (left) and Despite his strong business acumen and James Hakesley (right) drive to succeed, Roy’s inspiration remains in Tips for creating the inherent power of video. He continues to your own video be fascinated by its simplicity for the viewer in contrast with the technical work behind it. ¹5IVa\ISMNWZOZIV\ML\PMIUW]V\WN Never has there been a better hard work that goes into creating a video,” he opportunity for businesses to [IQL¹8MWXTMIZM[W][ML\WR][\OWWOTQVOWZ tap into the online video world TWOOQVOWV\WAW]<]JM\WÅVLN]VVa^QLMW[ without a multi-million dollar but there’s so much that goes on behind the budget. Here’s some tips from scenes to make them. And in business, video Roy on how to create your own .MK\Q^M_Ia\WKWUU]VQKI\MIV video for your businessٺQ[[]KPIVM organisation’s culture. Focused and concise videos can turn viewers into customers.” • Research what sites your ¹1¼UIT_Ia[TMIZVQVOVM__Ia[\WKIX\]ZM target audience visits and what WVKIUMZIº[IQL:Wa¹ Perfect execution, unique designs and bespoke pieces are important to any maker. One individual’s passion is displayed through commitment to their craft and a meticulous attention to detail, resulting in a thing WN JMI]\a\PI\_QTT[Q\LMTQKI\MTaWVIÅVOMZWZWVI mantelpiece to be cherished for years to come. Or, in Caren Hartley’s case, speed along highways and mountains, prepared for rough, gritty terrain. Bespoke Designs Caren Hartley BA (Hons) 3-Dimensional Design, Farnham, 2006 Right Silver details on a Hartley Cycles design 36 FEATURES CAREN HARTLEY 37 ¹+aKTQVOXPW\WOZIXPMZ+IUQTTM5K5QTTIV ¹ Far left The Demi Porkeur’s fork crown Left Caren in her South London workshop Below The Demi Porkeur Caren’s creations are unique steel and stainless ¹5aQV[XQZI\QWVWN\MVKWUM[NZWU steel bicycles. Intended to be beautiful, her looking at objects that already exist, and handmade bikes are custom-made to each I’m interested in the relationships people individual and ready to perform on the road. have with them. People develop really strong 7VMWN \PM=3¼[NM_NMUITMNZIUM relationships with their bicycles and trying builders, Caren combined her passion for to make each one personal and unique is bikes and crafts to establish Hartley Cycles. really important.” Fortunate to count members of the Saudi The award-winning Demi Porkeur is Arabian royal family as customers when Caren’s favourite creation to date. Part classic working as a sculptor, her career portfolio has French Porteur and part adventure bike also spanned jewellery and silversmithing, but for all terrains, the Demi Porkeur exhibits metal has always been at the heart of her work. beautiful clean lines and a striking blue ¹1TW^MLUM\ITNZWU\PMÅZ[\\QUM1_WZSML UM\ITTQKÅVQ[PaM\NMI\]ZM[PQOP[\ZMVO\P _Q\PQ\º[PMM`XTIQVML¹1\¼[[WUM\PQVO\WLW stainless steel and large tyres to support with how it feels, hard yet malleable. And heavy cargo. Like all of Caren’s creations, then joining it by soldering and brazing - it’s the made-to-order Demi Porkeur perfectly like magic! combines beauty and performance. 38 FEATURES PETER ALLINSON 39 Peter’s post-university successes include working with such luminary clients as ABC, Channel 4, Disney, HSBC, ITV, Red Bull, UBS, Sky, Sony, Universal Pictures and Warner International. Amongst his biggest projects is the music video for Michael Buble’s ‘Baby it’s Cold Outside’, which has nearly 14 million hits on YouTube and was broadcast on national television. ¹1TW^M_WZSQVOWVU][QK^QLMW[JMKI][M\PMZMIZM[]KP I_QLM^IZQM\aWN IZ\Q[\[W]\\PMZMº[IQL8M\MZ¹ ¹6W_\PM[M[\WZQM[KW]TLOWWV forever,” Mark Harrison tells me when I enquire about his most memorable day at work. I’m not really surprised – a quick look through his portfolio reads like a copy of Who’s ?PW¹*]\1¼LPI^M\W[Ia covering Margaret Thatcher as she did the voice over for a CD was quite something.” The man who shoots celebrities Mark Harrison BA (Hons) Photography, Tim Pilgrim meets Farnham, 1987 Mark Harrison 42 FEATURES MARK HARRISON 43 Previous page Benedict Mark’s worked with a lot of memorable ¹5a»M]ZMSI¼UWUMV\_I[PI^QVO Cumberbatch & Jonny NIKM[[QVKMPMOW\PQ[ÅZ[\KZMLQ\_PQT[\ CZMVW_VMLXPW\WOZIXPMZE6QKS3VQOP\ZQXUa Lee Miller, shot by Mark still a student at UCA Farnham, then the work apart as a guest lecturer,” remembers Harrison whilst promoting the stage version of West Surrey College of Art and Design 5IZS¹IVL1¼LIT[W][M\PMTMK\]ZMZ[I[ Frankenstein (WSCAD). From Danny DeVito to Al Gore, springboards to gain real life experience, Terry Pratchett to John Hurt, there’s a good getting work as their assistant. Below Mark plans each chance that if you’ve heard of them, Mark ¹ Above Charlotte Church, and planned out the shoot before he, or the now and again, telling me that every few years shot by Mark Harrison famous face he’s shooting, ever steps foot in the he tries to force himself to put all his usual studio or on location. After looking into the approaches to one side, and just try something _MZMV\IVLVMٺbackground of his sitter (as they’re known in the LQ MZMV\TQOP\QVOM^MVٺMZMV\KIUMZILQٺtrade) and compiling some sketches and mood ¹,Q MZMV\U][QK·M^MZa\PQVOPI[IJMIZQVOWVٺboards based on ideas and design restrictions LQ fed-back by the client, he scouts a suitable how a sitter for a portrait will respond to a location, hires some equipment and assistants, photographer’s approach. Staying ahead is all IVLOM\[PQ[IOMV\\WJWWSPQ[ÆQOP\[IVLPW\MT[ about not getting comfortable.” ¹ Below left & bottom right ¹1\PI[IJILZMXQV[WUMKQZKTM[·XMWXTM ¹ How was your time at the Surrey Institute of Art The group were good at painting, so I could only and Design (SIAD)? really mentor and encourage them. Each week I would I had a really positive experience at SIAD. We had suggest artists or articles that I felt would help them two excellent new course leaders that started at the same develop and I would go away and research and take in time as our year group – Sue Stockwell and Daphne images and written articles for them to read, there is Prevoo, who are both strong practicing installation no access to online information within prison, so I got based artists. Our lecturers, Alex Coles and Alicia Foster, through a lot of printing! We also had very limited access were encouraging and provocative. It was an exciting \WJWWS[IVLIVaÅTU[WZLWK]UMV\IZQM[PIL\WJM^M\\ML time, I felt I could try out all my ideas and anything and before approval. But somehow it worked - and I feel very everything was possible. Our year group was tight, we fed privileged to have shared time with these fascinating MIKPW\PMZ¼[QLMI[1\PQVS_M_MZMKWUXM\Q\Q^M\WW women. Seven months on, I’m still coming to terms withٺQ&A W Visiting artists such as Martin Creed were inspirational my prison experience. Art has a lot to do with freedom, with artist and set the tone of what was happening in the wider the and I felt a strong reaction to what I witnessed. My piece art scene at the time. ‘Containment’ was a response, but I am still working through more ideas. Mary Branson What are you working on now? ?ZIOM How do you got about tackling a new projectٺ[;]¼UK]ZZMV\Ta)Z\Q[\QV:M[QLMVKMNWZ?WUMV¼1 at the Houses of Parliament, working on a memorial that 1JMKWUMI[XWVOM.ZWU\PMUWUMV\1[\IZ\UaÅZ[\ .ZIOM meetings or see a new space, I start absorbing everythingٺ[]]¼Q[\WKWUUMUWZI\MIVLKMTMJZI\M\PM_WUMV movement. This is a long-term project, so in between the I try to remain open throughout the process. There’s a KWV[\Z]K\QWVIVLQV[\ITTI\QWVWN \PMÅVITXQMKM1IU_ZQ\QVO TW\WN TQ[\MVQVOOWQVOWV1\Za\WJMI_IZMWN UaÅZ[\ about my research and my experiences so far, as a kind of instinctive impressions, as they often become the most extended blog. Maybe it will turn into a book one day. important. I don’t worry too much about the practical K]T\QM[WN ZMITQ[QVOIVIZ\Q[\QKQLMI·\PMZMIZM[WUIVaٻI can’t say too much about it right now – but I did LQ MZMV\UMLQ]U[WXMV\W][\PI\\PMZMQ[IT_Ia[I_Iaٺspend several months in the archives reading material LQ ZIOMQV\MZ^QM_QVOPQ[\WZQIV[IVLIKILMUQK[ to present a concept. I’ll go away and just think, sketch orٺ[]ZMTI\ML\W across the country and talking to MPs and peers. My KWTTIOMQUIOM[]V\QT\PQVO[[\IZ\\W»Å\¼ Right ‘Red Tents’, image courtesy of Emma Brown knowledge was pretty basic, so I felt it was important for me to immerse myself in the subject in order to present What’s your proudest achievement? Below ‘Containment’, image something that was honest and valid. Standing on top of Guildford Mount with my ‘Red courtesy of Emma Brown 1¼^MIT[W[\IZ\ML_WZSWVIJWLaWN XZQV\[\PI\ZMÆMK\ No such thing as a straight film Hong Khaou BA (Hons) Film Production Farnham, 1997 with it,” said Hong, who honed his skills writing and LQZMK\QVO[PWZ\ÅTU[·UIVaWN _PQKPIZMIT[W\IOOML simply as ‘gay’ by IMDB. It’s a label Hong prefers not to wear on his sleeve, [IaQVO\PI\_PQT[\PQ[ÅTU[\W]KPWV[M`]ITQ\aQ\¼[VW\ZMITTa what they’re about. The problems start to arise further down however, below successful, Crash. Top Hong’s stars Ben Q\¼[IJW]\M`XMZQMVKQVO[WUM\PQVONWZ\PMÅZ[\\QUM \PMKZMLQ\[IVLÅTU¼[[aVWX[Q[¹1VKWV\MUXWZIZa4WVLWVI In 1994, Philadelphia was left un-nominated in favour Whishaw and Pei-Pei Chang ¹;WUMUQOP\[Ia4QT\QVOQ[IJW]\\PMTQNM[\aTMWN JMQVO Cambodian Chinese mother mourns the untimely death of of The Fugitive and The Remains of the Day, despite the queer, but it’s not really about that – it’s about grief, and her son,”) where IMDB lists the ‘plot keywords.’ When the ÅTU¼[[\IZ 01 01 Nat recreated Super- bowl ads in Lego 02 Nigel Farage mocked in UCA’s satire competition 03 ‘Mothers Day’ won the Audience Choice Award at New Designers 04 Artwork from Nat’s WeLoveKent advert 02 In May 2015 I entered UCA’s political satire competition and won 3rd prize for my depiction of Nigel Farage and Mark Reckless, =318TMILMZIVLTWKITKIVLQLI\MI[ As the fashion industry continues to grow exponentially, growing steadily and is estimated to comprise over 300 media platforms and watching the live stream of the UQTTQWVXMWXTM¹7]ZUIQVKWVKMZVQ[\PI\_MLWVW\TW[M same fashion shows at the same time regardless of MZMV\UIZSM\[IVL our identity. Even in fashion.” our geographical location. The emerging markets areٺVLMZ[\IVLQVO\PM]VQY]MK]T\]ZMQVLQ[ ;Q\\QVOWVIJTIKSTMI\PMZ[WNIQV[QLM\PMTIJMT¼[ÅZ[\ not far away distant lands, full of classless and rich, responding to their nuances becomes crucial to success. concept store – with adjacent members club and bar – fashion-starved suckers. Delhi, São Paulo, Moscow and Meeting independent designers in emerging markets like Nzinga went on to make clear that the aim of Projecto *MQRQVOIZM[WXPQ[\QKI\MLVM_UIZSM\[_PMZMKWVÅLMVKM Mental is to be global but from Luanda. Their pink IVLIVML]KI\QWVWN NI[PQWVKWV\QV]M[\WÆW]ZQ[P Angola and India, fashion writer Dal Chodha explores how leather Chelsea boots, with green ankle straps are crafted Chinese consumers, it is reported, are the top luxury in Italy, their suits designed in Angola and handmade spenders worldwide, accounting for 25% of total luxury both local and global culture impacts the fashion industry. MT[M_PMZM¹?MPI^MLMKQLML\WKWUU]VQKI\M)VOWTI purchases globally. through fashion, using it as a means to promote Angolan Many London based designers I talk to understand culture and identity. We make sure that wherever we go, that the key to international growth is in understanding people know that Projecto Mental is an Angolan brand.” a global market; how do their clothes translate to a MZMV\KTQUI\MIVL[WKQITKWLM' Abhishek Kochhar’s dream is to revive traditional ethical craftsmanship which he describes as a “dying art”, and assimilate it into mainstream ready-to-wear collections. Originally from India, Abhishek was preparing for a career in business administration when a fashion internship and the BA (Hons) Fashion Design course at UCA Rochester changed his path. After graduating, Abhishek returned to his home country to learn more about its traditional crafts, and went on to launch his own luxury apparel brand, House of Attuendo, in 2009. ¹ Rochester, 2008 Above left Cap-poncho in hand-woven silk Moving home? Make sure you update your contact details with us by emailing [email protected] to keep in touch and receive the latest UCA news. Share on social We would love to hear your thoughts about the magazine. Visit our Twitter and LinkedIn pages. @alumniuca University for the Creative Arts