Volume 19 – Issue 2 summer 2011 In this Issue 2 Notes from the Chair WheatStalk 2012 3 Guild News Editor's Note Leaving the Board

6 Member News The Bread Bakers Guild of America is very Kendall College in Chicago has graciously Women Bake Bread excited to announce WheatStalk 2012! This agreed to host WheatStalk. Located in the national bread conference will be held June heart of the Heartland, this venue will be easily 8 Regional Events 28 to June 30, 2012, and is the keystone of our accessible for many Guild members who might Asheville Bread Festival Cereal Series of 2012. The event will feature not otherwise be able to attend. We will sup- 9 Regional Baking three educationally packed days with hands- ply a list of recommended hotels later this year. Ethnic Baking in Chicago on classes, demos, lectures and oven building We have started our preparations but have a taught by industry leaders and old friends. 12 Breadville USA mountain of work ahead of us. We invite you American Baking in WheatStalk will be a joining together of to join a committee and contribute to the the Heartland member bakers, millers and growers to learn planning effort. Please contact Melina Kelson 16 Regional Baking and improve techniques, share ideas and build at [email protected] and watch upcoming Southwestern Breads community. WheatStalk will create an inclusive issues of Bread Lines for details on registration. and fun-filled atmosphere, while maximizing Breadville USA We look forward to baking with you in the 18 an educationally intensive opportunity. Artisan Breads: Windy City. Flavors of the Southwest – The WheatStalk Committee 21 Baking 101 Mixing and Techniques – Part I

24 Guild News Bernard Clayton Remembered

25 Readers' Response Defining Whole Wheat Flour Asheville 26 Hot Topic Genetically Engineered Wheat Bread Festival Natural Selection and ...... Genetic Modification Multigrain and

27 Regional Events sourdough breads Minneapolis Guildhall Gathering from City Bakery, Asheville, NC

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PHOTO: lourdes m. alves notes from the chair

M y husband and I opened our everything. The word “cheflebrity” didn’t bakery on March 21, and I’ve been exist, there wasn’t a televised challenge

wracking my brain, trying to see for every item in a kitchen, cupcakes were f t e to o f s lveig t esy something larger than the work on just those little cakes, and we all just o ur the bench in front of me, something did our work. While our profession has that’s relevant to the membership and achieved some elevated status, thanks to something to help me remember there’s this obsession with food, and our options : c P hoto a big wide world outside of the work I’m have expanded due to our customers’ doing right now. Don’t get me wrong; the heightened interests in cool foods, some work is fantastic, more satisfying than I of the workers attracted to this profession could have imagined, but putting together have a slightly skewed sense of what’s coherent thoughts and actual sentences is expected and what’s possible. trust that we will continue to make the hard for my savagely sleep-deprived brain. connections between dreams and realities I implore every would-be baker to accept for both sides of the bakery equation. One thing I’ve been thinking about is all challenges, and to focus on the here- the journey from bench worker to bakery and-now. Goals are good, but thinking Hopefully, between now and the next owner – a path many of you have taken, “I’m going to be a rock star” is a complete installment, I’ll manage to find a baker a path many hope to take, and a path distraction from the work at hand. with a loud alarm clock, so I can find a many have decided to forego for all sorts Embrace the challenges of organizing your bit of time to get back in touch with the of very wise reasons. I’ve met and tried life around quasi-abnormal hours, the wonderful world at large. I’m told that to hire many people who swear to me all idea of repeatedly doing great and precise everyone is doing cool stuff - it’s festival they want to do is bake bread – they go on work, and the wonderful fact that you’re season, the farmers markets are firing about the passion, the love, the complete joining the ranks of some very awesome up in these northern climes, interesting satisfaction of pulling well-crafted loaves and interesting individuals. We urgently grains are getting harvested and milled out of the oven. And then I say, “Great! need good bakers; all Guild bakeries have and you guys are turning them into Meet me here at 1 a.m.!” and their faces hit some point where they can’t find good fascinating loaves. . . But for now I’ve got fall, and they say, “Oh, no, I can’t get up help. Training is great, staging is fun, to get back to it - these preferments aren’t that early!” and go on their way. studying is fantastic – but until someone going to mix themselves. stands at the bench doing the same thing I don’t have to tell this esteemed mem- over and over and is able to see the joy in bership about this disconnect between that, none of those other things matters. a would-be bread baker and an actual baker, since our doorsteps see many of I don’t plan for this to be an advice column, the ones-who-won’t-wake-up. But if there but this is what’s on my mind these days. SOLVEIG TOFTE are readers out there thinking of making I guess I’m a little bewildered by people Board Chair and the intrepid jump to professional baking, who have spent so much time and money Owner of Sun Street Breads please open your hearts and minds to the on school, or spent so many agonized Minneapolis, MN fact that this is wonderful work, the hours hours deciding to change careers, and are early, and there’s something really then when faced with the actual thing On July 1, Solveig Tofte resigned as Chair of the great about transforming your life to real- they’ve been striving for, can’t manage Board of Directors to devote her full attention to ize your goals. to take the next step. I really don’t know her new bakery and café, Sun Street Breads in Min- neapolis. She will remain a member of the Board. how to account for it. Since The Guild When I started baking, we lived in a world The new Chair, Jeff Yankellow, will outline his vision is a group of educators and learners, I for The Guild in the fall issue of Bread Lines. free of the idea of famous everyone and

from the editor

Everything needs to grow and get better: Bread Lines since the late 1990s. It’s really 20th anniversary, we will be reprinting your business, your baking knowledge, cool to lay an issue from that time period technical articles from the first 18 years your garden and yes, even your Bread next to its current iteration. of Bread Lines. Didier Rosada’s original Lines. Anyone who has been a member article (reprinted in this issue), “Mixing What’s truly marvelous is that most of of The Guild for at least a few years has and Mixing Techniques,” appeared in 2002 the information contained in those early witnessed the gradual evolution of Bread and still can serve as a primer to any new issues is still completely relevant today. Lines. I’m not the longest serving member baker and as a refresher course for those And, as confirmation of that, all this year by any stretch, but I’ve been getting who have been in the bakery a long time. and next, as we approach The Guild’s

{ 2 } the bread bakers guild of america

GUILD news Thanks to our Donors The goal of each article is to provide The Bread Bakers Guild of America gratefully recognizes its you with informational and practical 2010-2012 fundraising partners for their generosity. content that will be useful to you. Jason and Linda Gollan The write-ups on the regional events Griffin’s Bakery Galway Ireland should give you enough information Platinum Partner ($120,000) Orlando Baking Company from the workshop that you will be General Mills, Inc. Carol Robson able to apply some of the techniques Truckee Sourdough Company presented, even if you weren’t able Gold Partner ($60,000) Baker’s Bunch ($390-$989) to attend. The feature articles offer a King Arthur Flour Co. Alessio Ambruso “deeper dive” into a particular theme San Francisco Baking Institute Anonymous or topic relevant to baking. Buono’s Bakery Ann F. Burgunder Perhaps the greatest resource The Silver Partner ($36,000) Abram Faber & Christy Timon California Raisin Marketing Board Harvey Hanoian Guild has is the vast and varied Lesaffre Yeast Corporation Dave Krishock collective knowledge and experience Red Hen Baking Company of its membership. No one author Edward Short can write the definitive article on a Bronze Partner ($18,000) SoNo Baking Company Baking Buyer Standard Baking Company subject, no matter how narrow the Kemper Bakery Systems of the WP Bakery Group Solveig Tofte focus. Our hope is that the articles Modern Baking Ray Werner themselves can serve as a starting Pastry & Baking North America Becky Woehrle point for a “conversation” which Progressive Baker/Cargill Jeffrey Yankellow allows for a fuller examination of Team Alliance ($6,000) Guild Friends (Up to $389) a particular topic. In this issue, for BEMA Tim Andrews example, we are printing a response Seven Stars Bakery Anonymous to an article that appeared in the Lorna Baker-Monroe Artisan Circle ($3,600) Frank Basich previous issue (Volume 19, Issue The Acme Bread Company George Blanford 1) because two of our members Albemarle Baking Company Carol Brownson felt that some clarification and Allied Bakery Equipment Company Inc. Marsha De Angelis further discussion on the topic was Amy’s Bread Dewey Doughberman Breadsmith Eden Valley Bakers warranted. From there the discussion Chabaso Bakery Jessie Foster can move online to The Guild’s Clear Flour Bread Michael Gesik eGroup for further debate. ConAgra Mills Gail Goetsch Charles and Joyce Esfeld Rhoda Gordon Also in this issue, we are starting a Grand Central Baking Company James W. Hatfield III new feature: “Hot Topics.” We will Sasa-Demarle Inc. Hot Bagel Company select a subject that some might Tom Cat Bakery Inc. Melina Kelson-Podolsky Tree-Top Baking Craig Ponsford view as controversial and will find Village Bakery Cafe Patricia Kennedy two knowledgeable people to Zingerman’s Bakehouse John Kino present opposite viewpoints. Again, Paul Krebs we envision this as a starting point Hearth Society ($1,980) John and Laura Kvasnosky AIB International Larry Lobe for enlightening discussions among Bread Alone Joan McConville our members. Neale and Marian Creamer Paige Meier Euro Pane Bakery Benjamin Miller And finally, this really is your Bread Labriola Baking Company Richard Miscovich Lines. Please let me or Laverne Lallemand Inc. / American Yeast Division Murray Hollow Bakers Dicker know what you like, and what Le Petit Outre Breads Barbara Oberlin New French Bakery Christian Oertel you’d like to see changed. And if you Niedlov's Breadworks Barbara A. Oletzke have any ideas for making it a better Udi's Bread Maria A. Paniagua resource, please let us know that as Harry Peemoeller well. Couche Club ($990-$1,979) Lewis Perlmutter Bakehouse Bread Rebecca and Dmitri Robbins Tod Bramble David Bergman Sandwich Isle Bread Company Frank Carollo Joan Schiller Bread Lines Co-Editor and Certified Foods Inc. Slow Rise Bakery Guild Board Member Dawn Food Products Scott Tycer Erika Record LLC Hans van der Maarel

bread lines – summer 2011 { 3 } GUILD news

Leaving the Board

— Ann Burgunder : abram faber P hoto

By Abe Faber Guild Board Member and Co-Owner of Clear Flour Bread, Brookline, MA

Ann Burgunder’s term on the Guild that time had no underlying Board of Directors expired at the end theme tying them together. of 2010. She served on the Board for six She proposed that we create a years, and every one of those years was comprehensive theme each year packed with accomplishments. to focus our educational efforts.

If I referred to Craig Ponsford March issue What she saw was that although Ann Burgunder with Christian Vabret, president of EFBA of Bread Lines as setting lofty standards we created quality classes, they (l’Ecole Française de Boulangerie d’Aurillac) and founder of to achieve, Ann would be my example of a benefited only the attendees. the Coupe du Monde de la Boulangerie, at the 2008 Coupe du Monde, where she presented him with a Women of The Guild Board member who then wholeheartedly By planning a year’s worth of T-shirt. Ann was the coordinator of Women of The Guild, The took on the nuts and bolts of making it events all at once and arranging Guild’s 2008 regional event series. happen. She joined the Board at the start to have photographers and of planning for Camp Bread 2005, and I writers at each event, we could share Ann believed that Bread Lines was one of was lucky enough to get her to agree to concepts and formulas from every event the most important, yet undeveloped, ele- work with me on the project. in Bread Lines. ments of the educational mission of The Guild: unlike hands-on events, Bread Lines Ann is a woman who feels strongly For 2008, the debut year of this new reaches every member. She worked tire- that things should look good and that concept, Ann created a series of 12 events lessly with the Newsletter Committee and everything should have some bright red in under the banner "Women of the Guild." staff to improve the technical and educa- it! When she arrived, everything The Guild Ann has told me that one of her goals tional content of the articles. She worked did was in black and white, with very few in joining the Board was to encourage with a designer to give the newsletter its photos. By the timie she left the Board, women bakers to join The Guild and current graphic look and feel, and she cre- Bread Lines was all in color, with plenty hone their craft. She is enormously proud ated the Camp Bread 2007 and Women of of graphics and pictures. A large part of of shining a spotlight on the talented the Guild special issues. that is her legacy: creating places for us to Women of the Guild who taught these experience baking as a visual craft. I recently asked Ann her thoughts about classes and who served as models and her time on the Board, and she wrote She dove right into the challenge of inspiration especially for the women in our back, “I found it sometimes frustrating, designing the look and feel of the Camp membership. often challenging, I learned and grew a lot Bread event. We were committed to By creating Women of the Guild and the from the long distance working together creating something really special that regional events template we still use, Ann with other Board members.” She went on enveloped attendees in a sensory world has contributed hugely to the educational to say she “really enjoyed working with different from anything The Guild had mission of The Guild. a group of talented, knowledgeable and ever done before. Ann worked with artists, query colleagues.” Obviously, the word designers and teachers to create imagery The following year she served on “query” was a typo, and I would like to for printed materials, banners, a science committees that produced "The Draft for think she meant to say “quirky.” But who fair, meals, posters, etc., to create and Team USA," which recognized the 10th knows. Maybe she meant querulous? The communicate the visual experience of anniversary of the first Bread Bakers Guild Board is certainly that at times, as we Camp Bread. Team USA gold medal at the Coupe du seek to carry out the mission of The Guild. Monde de la Boulangerie and featured The Guild had always done a great job Ann was always someone who cared a series of 12 master classes taught presenting educational opportunities much more about quality and standards by Team USA members, coaches and for the membership, but Camp Bread than just getting the job done, whether managers. In 2010 it was "The World’s Fair set a new standard for creating a more it meant a little quarrel or not. We have of Bread," featuring international baking comprehensive experience wrapped in a all enjoyed and appreciated the amazing traditions. This year we have rolled out an fun, modern package. Ann saw right away amount of time, dedication and energy exploration of uniquely American baking that while we couldn’t put on a camp that she has put into developing the look traditions, "Breadville USA." every year, we could do a much better job and feel of what The Bread Bakers Guild with our regional events, which up until of America is today. ✹

{ 4 } the bread bakers guild of america GUILD news

Leaving the Board — Frank Carollo

By tod bramble Bread Lines Co-Editor and Guild Board Member esy o f zingerman's bake ho use t esy

At the end of December 2010, Frank Frank drew an interesting o ur Carollo of Zingerman’s Bakehouse in parallel between The Guild

Ann Arbor, Michigan, stepped down after and television’s Food : c P hoto a three-year term as a member of The Network. He pointed out Guild’s Board of Directors. In recognition that the Food Network has of the time he spent on the Board, I spoke been hugely successful

with him on the phone and asked if he in creating celebrity in Frank Carollo at Zingerman’s Bakehouse in Ann Arbor, Michigan could reflect on his evolution as a baker an industry that, up until and The Guild’s role in it. several years ago, was largely staffed by The Guild and its professional members people doing very hard but anonymous as making great baking a reality for the Frank was a founding partner at work in kitchens around the world. Frank’s serious home baker. As a result, along Zingerman’s Bakehouse in 1992. He view is that The Guild has been successful with the flourishing of great bakeries remembers that time as one where artisan in drawing attention to great artisan around the nation, more of us are now bakers were truly on their own to develop bakers in the U.S. and abroad and making baking at home and employing many of the craft, largely through experimentation. many of them familiar to the membership the techniques of the professionals. Unlike today, there weren’t many books of The Guild. In contrast to many chef- written on the subject. Until Frank was on The Guild’s Board celebrities, however, he finds most artisan of Directors and became involved Then, in 1993, just a year after the start baking superstars to be humble and in all aspects of the membership, he of Zingerman’s, the newly formed Bread connected to the history of what they are wasn’t aware of how large a role the Bakers Guild of America was holding its doing. He finds it refreshing to be a part of serious home baker played within the first educational event at the International an industry filled with such people. organization. In fact, Frank feels he Baking Industry Exposition (IBIE) in Las Frank kept returning to this idea of people has learned as much from the serious Vegas. Frank said it was a watershed event and baking. Zingerman’s couldn’t have home bakers as the professionals in the for him. Suddenly, he met bakers from become the business that it has without Guild’s Yahoo eGroup. He recognizes the around the country who were engaged all the people who contributed along the importance of leveraging the knowledge in the same thing and working from the way. He recalled that in the early days of of the serious home baker and feels that same basic, on-the-job experimental the Bakehouse, he had a mere 10 days of The Guild needs to continue to work on knowledge. baking experience when he hired his first connecting the needs and experiences of In some cases, he encountered crew. And Frank had more experience this group of members effectively. “professional” bakers who lacked a great than anyone else! But they figured it out When Frank looks back on The Guild’s deal of knowledge. When Frank, with his together. The Bakehouse today is making efforts, he sees it having a major signature open and disarming manner, a much higher volume of quality breads impact on the creative and educational confessed to making yeasted and naturally and pastries than in their first days, but opportunities available to bakers. And leavened breads in the same bakery, a although it is a big operation, it is a bakery going forward, he hopes to see The Guild zealous professional informed him that full of people, not overrun by machines. continue to provide education for home “You can’t do that!” Another theme close to Frank is the role bakers and professionals alike, so that Frank replied cheerfully, “Well, we are, and of baking in the home. Frank credits The they can all learn from their greatest have been doing it quite successfully.” Guild and its members with pushing resource: each other. baking back into the home. He points out This first Guild event at IBIE was what During the past 19 years, Frank Carollo that this runs counter to other industries, helped him begin to develop a network of has seen the development of some in which businesses find a better way of baking colleagues: bakers who were doing unbelievably educated bakers. His feeling doing something that people always did what he was doing, whom he could call on is that whereas in the beginning we had to for themselves, and more cheaply. So to share their experiences, discuss busi- look to Europe for baking knowledge and people stop doing whatever it was they ness issues and to lend help and support. training, we can now look to our own, and always had and went outside the home for this we all owe The Guild a huge debt for it. Frank sees much of the work of of gratitude. ✹

bread lines – summer 2011 { 5 } member news

Amy Scherber giving a demonstration on women sourdough bread. bake bread By Tod Bramble Bread Lines Co-Editor and Guild Board Member

magine yourself arriving in a new and employment, and the women provide i country. You don’t speak the language; years of baking experience with products you have left behind everything you know. indigenous to their countries: tortillas, Immediately upon arrival, you need to find chapati, lavash. The combination makes shelter. Then you need to find work, so great social and business sense. you can feed yourself and your family and In addition to being an ethnic product start to meet some of your daily needs. bakery, HBK acts as an incubator for This scene, scarcely imaginable for most small-scale baking businesses looking for us, plays itself out daily and has done so a commercial space in which to develop, ever since people began coming to North test and launch their products. This is an America looking for a better life. Immi- enormous head start, as many of these grants continue to arrive today in great businesses were started in people’s homes Alone, Sarah Black of Fairway Market, numbers, bringing with them highly refined but haven’t attained sufficient scale where Karen Bornarth of Le Pain Quotidien, and skills. The baking industry in the United they can afford to rent a space. HBK Jessamyn W. Rodriguez of the Hot Bread States especially reflects this, with immi- offers a much-needed bridge between a Kitchen. grants contributing greatly to the regional home-based baking business and a full The event ran all day, starting at 8:30 “flavor” of baking wherever they settle. scale commercial bakery. am with opening words of introduction The reality facing many of today’s On May 14, I attended a fundraising event by Jessamyn W. Rodriguez, founder immigrants is that while there is no for HBK in New York. Organized by Sarah and Director of HBK. Next came two shortage of work, much of it is unskilled, Black of Fairway Market and supported simultaneous classes: Jessamyn and low-wage, and often dangerous. The in part by King Arthur Flour and Fairway some of her staff teaching a primer on situation is especially acute for immigrant Markets, Women Bake Bread gathered international breads, and Amy Scherber women arriving in New York. Many of together a group of women bakers – many giving an introductory lesson on them find employment in the garment of whom are Guild members -- who have sourdough bread. In the second session industries, food service, and as domestic shaped baking in New York. Sarah Black gave a demonstration on staff in hotels. how to use one dough to make three This was not a charity event in which you breads: ciabatta, fougasse, and focaccia, Hot Bread Kitchen (HBK), a Guild donate cash to your favorite non-profit and Monica Calderon and her bakers member bakery located under the Metro organization and get only a coffee mug demonstrated the art and technique of North Railroad tracks at 114th Street in in return. The 65 people who registered Roman-style pizza. Harlem, sees the great potential these were taught by Amy Scherber of Amy’s women bring with them in the form of Bread, Monica Calderon of Grandaisy, By 1:00 pm everyone was ready for lunch. their baking skills and work ethic. HBK Rhonda Crosson of The French Culinary Instead of taking a break, however, we provides English language instruction Institute, Sharon Burns-Leader of Bread gathered in the large production room where a panel discussion of all the women instructors was moderated by Charlotte The instructors Druckman. at the Hot Bread Kitchen After lunch, Karen Bornarth held a class fund raising event (from featuring the Classic French Baguette. left to right): This was a true hands-on session with Sarah Black, all the participants taking turns shaping, Karen Bornarth, using various techniques. And for the Rhonda Crosson, Monica Calderon, final sessions of the day, Rhonda Crosson Sharon Burns- gave a demonstration on hand-shaping Leader, and techniques for bagels and pretzels, and Jessamyn W. Sharon Burns-Leader gave a lesson on Rodriguez Photos: molly crossin flatbreads and crackers.

{ 6 } the bread bakers guild of america member news country sourdough boule

Contributed by AMY SCHERBER

Preferment : Mix preferment 1 day before you plan to Process – Country Sourdough Boule use it. Let rise for 4 hours at room temp, Preferment Mixing type of mixer Spiral then chill until ready to use. First fermentation length of time 4 hours at final dough room temp, Place water, starter and yeast in the bowl : place in cooler of a spiral mixer. Mix on 1st speed to until needed break up the starter, 1 minute. Dough temp 78°F : Add flours and salt and mix for 4 more minutes on 1st speed, or until dough has Final Dough come together and flour is fully hydrated. Mixing type of mixer Spiral Dough should feel wet and sticky. If 1st speed 5 mins too dry, add cool water and mix to Autolyse 20 mins 1 min incorporate. 1st speed 2nd speed 3 - 5 mins : Let rest 15 to 20 minutes. Dough temp 78°F : Mix again on 1st speed for 1 minute, then 2nd speed for 3-5 minutes until dough is First fermentation length of time 2 hours stretchy and elastic. Desired temp, 78°F. Number of folds 1 : Place in oiled tub to rise at cool room Timing for folds After first Country Sourdough Boule baked by Amy Scherber temp. hour during him demonstration at the Hot Bread Kitchen. : After 1 hour, fold and turn. Shaping Divide .525 or .750 kg : After 45-60 minutes divide dough into Preshape Round pieces at 525 gr. or 750 gr. and pre- Resting time 15 mins The generosity of the women shape into balls. Shape Varied leading the demonstrations was Proofing device Couche, enormous, and their willingness to shape & bake basket, board pass on their baking knowledge : After 15 minutes shape into loaves led to the event being a success for (boules, batards, etc.) Proof & Bake Final proof time 1 - 2 hrs @ 75°F those in attendance. Karen Bornarth : Let rise in cloth-lined basket or on Oven type Deck summed it up perfectly when boards lined with couch for 1-2 hours. Steam 20 secs she said, “For me it was a terrific : Score and bake with steam in preheated Total bake Until dark day—we raised money for a worthy 475°F deck oven until dark brown and brown organization, and I got to hang out crusty. Temperature 475°F in the company of people who love : Cool, then enjoy. ✹ Damper open N/A to bake bread, which is always fun.”

The event raised over $7,000 dollars country sourdough boule for Hot Bread Kitchen. Total Flour During the late afternoon, while Total Dough Weight (TDW) 10.000 kg Prefermented 10.80% the last demonstrations were still Total Formula LEVAIN final dough underway, the women bakers of Ingredients % kilograms % kilograms Ingredients kilograms HBK began to arrive for the start of Total Flour 100.00% 5.450 kg 100.00% 1.457 kg Total Flour 4.860 kg their production shifts . The energy Unbleached Bread Flour 97.10% 4.670 kg 100.00% 0.590 kg Unblchd Bread Flour 4.080 kg of the place started to shift from a Pumpernickel Flour 2.90% 0.780 kg Pumpernickel Flour 0.780 kg wonderful day of baking instruction Fresh Yeast 0.60% 0.035 kg Fresh Yeast 0.035 kg to one of production, all fueled by Kosher Salt 2.00% 0.108 kg Kosher Salt 0.108 kg a passion for the craft of baking Sourdough Starter* 4.20% 0.231 kg 39.20% 0.231 kg and a commitment to making lives Water (75°-78°F) 76.60% 4.176 kg 39.20% 0.231 kg Water (75°-78°F) 3.945 kg better. ✹ Levain 1.052 kg For more information on HBK, visit Totals 183.40% 10.000 kg 178.40% 1.052 kg 10.000 kg http://hotbreadkitchen.org. *Sourdough Starter is Active White or Rye bread lines – summer 2011 { 7 } regional events

april 2-3 2011 The Asheville Bread Festival asheville, nc Hundreds of attendees converged in downtown Asheville once again to cel- ebrate the region's vibrant artisan bakery scene at the seventh Asheville Bread Festival. Crowds packed the fair all morning, where fifteen local artisan baker- ies showcased handmade bread, pastries and pretzels. Workshops included world-class baking instruction by Lionel Vatinet and Didier Rosada as well as lectures by Jenn Lapidus (NC Organic Bread Flour Project), Dave Bauer (Farm & Sparrow Bakery), ovenbuilder Antoine Guerlain (Old Stone Heat) and oth- ers. Peter Reinhart and Joe Lindley (Lindley Mills) presented interesting baking 1 performance and nutritional informa- tion about sprouted wheat flour. The festival was sponsored by the local bakeries, the Bread Bakers Guild of America, Greenlife Grocery, Slow Food Asheville, Lindley Mills, and the Appalachian Sustainable Agriculture Project. Proceeds this year went to the newly-formed Carolina Ground, L3C, a mill dedicated to grains grown and ground on Carolina ground. ✹

2 3

1 An artistically scored Apple Walnut Buckwheat loaf. 2 Patra Bonham Rule of Hillside Bakery, Knoxville, TN. 3 Didier Rosada taught two workshops: “Functional Breads At Home: Baking With Non-Wheat Flours” and “Delicious Sweet Breads At Home.” 4 Peter Reinhart in the demo kitchen, teaching a class to 150 attendees on the use of sprouted wheat flour. 5 5 Peter Reinhart with sprouted whole wheat bread coming out of the oven. 4 6 Joe Ritota of Annie’s Naturally by the Carolina Ground mill exhibit. 7 Various types of artisan breads were available for sampling.

Photo credits: 1 Lourdes M. Alves 2 kathy keyes 3 peter reinhart 4-6 courtesy of peter reinhart 6 7 7 Lourdes M. Alves

{ 8 } the bread bakers guild of america regional BAKING

Awake Through Years: By heidi hedeker Guild Member and Instructor Ethnic Baking in Chicago Kendall College, Chicago, IL

that followed. The Lower West Side “Things men have made with wakened hands, and put neighborhood they settled, Pilsen, took its soft life into are awake through years with transferred name from the Bohemian capital founded touch, and go on glowing for long years. by King Wenceslas II, best known as the home of pilsner beer. Czech settlers, And for this reason, some old things are lovely warm or “Bohemians” as they were called, still with the life of forgotten men who made them.” fanned through Chicago, many of them eventually settling in Nebraska and the – D.H. Lawrence Dakotas beginning in the 1870s. They enjoyed savory and sweet dumplings of We bakers who love the feel of flour Their hard wheat – known as turkey red all kinds, and especially loved coffeecakes on our hands can testify to the longing winter wheat*– transformed the Midwest and pastries like kolache. In the Great to recreate certain sensations and flavors and Great Plains into the nation’s Plains, where robust sheaves of golden that we cannot forget . . . and the role of breadbasket. Today, their wheat lives on wheat prickled over the landscape, food in our memory. in over 200 varietal descendants. Eastern European specialties abounded in small towns – from the Croatian povitica Desiring the taste of bread, this country’s By then, America already promised to the Czech kolache to Polish kolacz. original immigrants, the colonists of 1609, stockyards full of meat, landscapes which struggled with their cultivation of wheat. were swayed by a relentless, rebellious Many Russian immigrants were Jews To the end of the 19th century, wheat was wind, and roads which wandered beneath who fled persecutions, known as pogroms, still scarce and costly. Fittingly, across the an endlessly blue horizon. The cramped which were prevalent in Russia following Atlantic in 1875, the English poet Robert towns of Europe were left behind, where the assassination of Czar Nicholas II Browning wrote, “If thou tastest a crust of the relationship between labor and in 1881. In Chicago, a large population bread, thou tastest all the stars and all the food seemed harsher, with greater class settled around Devon Avenue in East heavens.” separations. Rogers Park, filling storefronts with challah and rugulach. Wheat brought from England failed Many waves of immigrants soon came – to thrive in this country, with its more filling the Midwestern pantry with Italian immigrants who came to Chicago austere climate. But, as is the American ingredients from thrifty farmers, and in the early part of the 20th century were way, two­­­ lucrative twins, longing and shaping a cuisine of skilled craftsmen. often men who planned to work in the U.S. prospect, made a marriage, and forged More immigrants passed through for a number of years and then return to opportunity. The Sante Fe Railroad Chicago then have stayed. Close to four Italy. Those who ended up staying formed endeavored to market land all along million people immigrated through the largest ethnic group in the Near West their railroad lines to customers who Chicago – in the years between 1910 and Side neighborhoods by the 1920s. The would use—and pay for-- the railroad as 1940, at least 25%, and usually closer to area around Taylor Street is Chicago’s it was being built. Many were enticed 35%, of Chicago’s population were direct Continued on next page to move westward. Russian immigrant immigrants. Today, the city has under farmers, newly transplanted to the U.S. three million inhabitants. *See Thom Leonard's article, "Heirloom Wheat," from even harder ways of life, in a sense Bread Lines vol. 18, issue 3. Just before the time of carried their fields with them, cultivating the Russian farmers, a type of wheat which had survived the formation of the Austrian- harsh, dry winters of the steppes. The Hungarian Empire in Mennonite farmers came around 1875, 1867 forced an exodus from the Ukraine, to escape conscription from that region. Czechs into the Tsar’s army, setting up shop in from Bohemia entered

the vicinity of Harvey County, Kansas. By o f d bra bielinski t esy Chicago in the decades

the turn of the century, the wheat they o ur planted and harvested began its rapid migration over railroad lines, newly laid Kolaczki are cookies which are made all year round. In the : c P hoto to Chicago, New York, and Philadephia. Czech Republic where they origi- nated, kolaczki are round and filled with cheese, jams and fruit.

bread lines – summer 2011 { 9 } regional BAKING

Dobra Bielinski and her mother, Stasia Awake Through Years: Hawryszczuk, in the doorway of Delightful Pastries, Chicago. Dobra is Ethnic Baking in Chicago holding a tray of Marbled Poundcakes.

Continued from previous page comparison to American cuisine. “The butter, eggs, dark chocolate, and nuts Little Italy. Saul Alinsky, Chicago’s make quite a difference to flavor and famous community organizer, noted satisfaction,” she says, and observes that in 1946 the importance of good food customers feel a need to balance that to Italians, “Welfare workers would get luxury with their interest in health. “I find very upset because our Italian families that my customers seek relief if they buy insisted on buying very good olive oil to a sweet pastry – they make up for it in a cook with...Italians have to have olive oil.” healthy bread. Adding whole grains or But by far the largest group of seeds to a cookie improves marketability, immigrants coming through Chicago has whether for wholesale or retail. For always been from Poland – the land of example, oatmeal or sunflower seed babka, kolacz, sekacz, chrusciki (angel’s cookies fly out the door – the pleasure wings), paczki and mazurek. without the guilt, so to speak.” In Poland, the start of the pre-Lenten Dobra thinks the movement towards preparation before Easter is known sustainability and high quality go hand- POPPY SEED WALNUT TORTE as Tlusty Czwartek (Fat Thursday). In in-hand. “Organic is not a new concept to Russia, this time is known as Butter Europeans; it’s part of how they view the Total Formula Week. In America, the Polish custom has world – as part of a larger cycle. As my Ingredients % kilograms been adapted to the Tuesday before Ash very wise friend once told me, ‘What is Poppy Seeds, cooked and ground 100.00% 3.000 kg Wednesday, also known as Mardi Gras the point of training people to make Euro- Egg Yolks 20.41% 0.612 kg in French, or Fat Tuesday. All of the lard, pean pastries when there is no market for Eggs 16.35% 0.490 kg sugar and fruit in the household had to it?’ Just as the industry created a market Sugar, powdered 33.33% 1.000 kg be used up during this week, as they were for dark chocolate, we should create a Walnuts, coarsely chopped 20.00% 0.600 kg forbidden during Lent. This is Paczki market for high quality and sustainably Cake Crumbs, dried 12.00% 0.360 kg Day, when bakeries and pastry shops all made pastries and breads.” Candied Orange Peel, chopped 20.00% 0.600 kg over Chicago and the Midwest sell fruit- Today, Chicago’s population is still Raisins 20.00% 0.600 kg and custard-laden donuts by the bakers’ diverse: one in eight of Chicago’s resi- Baking Powder 1.00% 0.030 kg dozen. Not for the weak-of-heart, this dents is foreign-born. Waves of migra- Egg Whites 44.98% 1.349 kg splurge precedes Lenten fasts. tion through the past century have left Totals 288.07% 8.641 kg To Eastern Europeans, fine pastries and behind a bazaar of food shops, and new for assembly breads are still a luxury and a special- immigrants continue their trek along Chi- Ingredients quantity occasion treat. Dobra Bielinski, owner cago’s elevated sidewalks, clutching bags Simple Syrup 500 ml full of memories, longing and reassurance of Delightful Pastries in the Laramie- Vodka 750 ml Belmont Polish district of Chicago, points from bakeries, groceries and cafes. ✹ Buttercream Frosting, coffee flavor as needed out that European food is very rich in Vodka to taste

Paczki dough. Dobra’s Makes two sheet pans bakery normally makes : 13 kg poppy seed, cooked and put 200 paczki a day but through a grinder or Robot Coupe during Mardi Gras produces them in the : 140 yolks thousands. Delightful : 110 eggs Pastries was featured on : 11 kg powdered sugar esy o f d bra bielinski t esy “Best of Chicago” for its 1600 grams walnuts paczki. : o ur : 1360 grams dried cake crumbs (from s: c sponge cake or smashed butter cookies) 140 egg whites

P hoto : : 1600 grams candied orange peel, chopped : 1600 grams raisins : 130 grams of baking powder

{ 10 } the bread bakers guild of america regional BAKING

Bakery Tour of Chicago Mekato’s Colombian Bakery By Melina Kelson-Podolsky, Guild Board Member and 5423 North Lincoln Avenue 773-784-5181 Chef Instructor, Kendall College, Chicago, IL A family-operated bakery with displays filled with laminated pastries and savory baked goods. Traditional items include Chicago is the adoptive homeland of more nationalities buñuelos and Danish-like pastries stuffed with guyaba and than you can name. These immigrants settle in enclaves, cheese. many of them supporting their local bakeries as they seek out familiar flavors. Although the city is sprawling, many of Pan Hellenic Pastry Shop these communities are near one another. 322 South Halsted Street 312-454-1886 This family-run bakery features classic and lesser-known A famous street that represents many cultures is Devon Greek pastries, made with care. Street, on the north side of the city. Busy storefronts on the east side offer Pakistani items. As one crosses Western Pleasant House Avenue, they venture into the Indian part of town. High 964 West 31st Street 773-523-7437 quality in-house flatbreads from fermented grains and Buttery and flaky crusts offset richly flavored, savory fillings legumes are offerings at most restaurants and snack shops, at this British pasties shop. but bakeries as we think of them are unusual. Heading west, Middle Eastern Bakery the signs change from Hindi to Cyrillic, and the community 1512 West Foster Avenue 773-561-2224 becomes densely eastern European. At the end of that This small storefront bakery and grocery features sesame- street is the Jewish community. crusted barbari and savory pies in a flaky crust. Their Argo Georgian Bakery multigrain pita, pocked with seeds and with a traditional 2812 West Devon Avenue 773-764-6322 chewy texture, is unlike pita most Americans have The large electric tandoor in the center of the room invites experienced. the curious baker and customer. Cheese-stuffed hachapuri Dokil Korean Bakery in a flaky, puff pastry dough and chewy lavash bread are 3844 West Lawrence 773-539-3551 signature items. Doughnut-like cream bread is permeated with silky pastry Tel Aviv Kosher Bakery cream, with an array of flavors to choose from. 2944 West Devon Avenue 773-764-8877 Note: There are several Guild member bakeries in the Continuing west on Devon, one enters the Jewish portion Chicago area that bake ethnic specialties. Please be sure of this strip. Tel Aviv Kosher Bakery has been a landmark on to consult the membership directory on the Guild website, this street for generations, selling traditional items such as www.bbga.org, before setting out on your tour. challah and rugelach.

Poppy Seed Walnut Torte { Makowo Orzechowy Torte } By Dobra Bielinski Owner, Delightful Pastries, Chicago, IL preparation baking : Cook the poppy seeds in water till soft. : Bake at 350°F for 60 minutes. (The fairly strong to stand up to the poppy Drain and process in a grinder or Robot baking time is lengthy due to the seed. You have to judge how much Coupe. Measure out 3 kg for use in the moisture from the poppy seeds.) frosting depending on your clientele. I torte. would have about ½ inch of filling in the final preparation middle and ½ inch on top. mixing : Dust the sheet cakes with some crumbs : Put half of the buttercream on one layer Whip the egg yolks, eggs, and powdered to keep them from sticking and flip : of the torte. Top with the remaining layer, sugar to the ribbon stage. over onto cardboard sheet boards. Peel soaked side up. Cover with remaining Fold in everything else, except the egg parchment papers away from the cakes. : buttercream. Decorate as desired. whites, syrup, and vodka. Make sure that you can slide them off the : In a separate bowl, whip egg whites to boards easily to construct the cake. refrigeration & serving soft peak stage. : Combine syrup with vodka. Soak the : Let the cake sit in the refrigerator for at : Fold into the poppy seed mixture in poppy seed layers. Put one layer soaked least two days; four is better as the cake three stages. Line two full sheet pans side up on a plastic sheet pan. absorbs everything and mellows out. with parchment paper and evenly divide : Cut the cake into 8-inch squares or bars frosting and assembly batter into pans. for a classic European presentation. ✹ : Make coffee buttercream frosting and flavor with more vodka – it has to be bread lines – summer 2011 { 11 } breadville usa

american baking By Nancy Carey Guild Member and Baking and Culinary Instructor, in the heartland College of Dupage, Glen Ellyn, IL ......

s a born and raised Chicagoan and Pretzels, with their ever-increasing cachet artisan bakers would be to use a high Abaker, I consider it a privilege and joy and market presence, were a much-antic- percentage of a preferment, paired with to be able to participate in a Midwest ipated product for all the students. Jory the elimination of commercial yeast. This regional baking class taught by our own began the pretzel demo with a discussion would accomplish a similar effect in the profoundly talented Jory Downer. “Ameri- of ingredients that are associated specifi- dough, although there could be a loss in can Baking in the Heartland” was the third cally with pretzels. The first ingredient of oven spring. class of 14 in The Guild’s Breadville USA discussion was lye, also known as sodium Pretzels are mixed using an improved mix, series, when 16 students and five assis- hydroxide or corrosive alkaline. Lye serves with attention being paid to the finished tants gathered together in a bakeshop a very specific function in the production dough temperature of 76–77 degrees. at Kendall College in Chicago. Attendees of pretzels; it is what gives them their Coming off the mixer, the dough should came from all over the country: Washing- distinctive crunch, light nuttiness and feel like a croissant dough. Once mixed, ton, D.C., upstate New York, San Francisco, mahogany color. As Jory explained, lye the dough is bench rested for 15 minutes. Washington state and Michigan. The mo- provides the alkalinity which increases the You subsequently scale the dough at 114 tives of the students were many: to learn Maillard reaction. He uses a lye solution grams, round loosely and then immedi- to make pretzels and products remem- of 100 oz of water to 4 oz of lye. After the ately roll into a log about five inches long. bered from childhood, to complement dough is mixed, shaped and retarded, the Place the logs on an unfloured board and current product line, to expand baking raw pretzels are dipped in the solution for allow to rest another 10 minutes. When knowledge and skills, and to bake more about 30 seconds. shaping on the table, wipe the flour off products from the Midwest. A controversial but frequently used ingre- and if necessary use a spray bottle of wa- Jory, the consummate educator and friend dient in Germany is S500. This ingredient, ter to achieve a good surface for rolling. of all bakers, began the weekend with an because of its frequency of use, needed The final shaping begins by rolling out the introduction and the history of his bakery, some explaining. S500 is a dough en- log to, as Jory says, “the longest width Bennison’s. It gave us a point of reference hancer, a no time dough conditioner that your arms can go” and then tapering the for the evolution of products and baking essentially decreases the presence of ends. Achieving the final shape requires culture in the Midwest. The items he chose gas in the structure and allows for quick practice; hold both ends of the piece, and to cover during this class were Strudel, scaling and benching of the dough. S500 with a snap of your wrists and a twist, the Kolachky, Bienenstich, Paczki, Brown Bag is also responsible for the oven spring dough falls into the classic pretzel shape. Apple Pie, and Pretzels. achieved in the bake. An alternative for t ran s: eric ful P hoto

Jory Downer mixes the lye Snaking out (shaping) the Jory adjusts the shape of a pretzel. Dipping pretzels in lye solution. solution for the pretzels. pretzel dough.

{ 12 } the bread bakers guild of america breadville usa

March 26-27 american baking in the heartland

Hosted by Kendall College Chicago, IL Heidi Hedeker – Liaison

Instructor Guild members at the American Baking in the Heartland class. Left: Jean Kriger of Manassas, Jory Downer VA. Center: Siddharth Mangalore and Belinda Brooks, chef instructors at Kendall College. Right: Bob Blaske of Bellevue, MI.

This is a shaping technique that is most cooling screen, which has a plastic sheet The class included an abundance of successful when done quickly. Place the underneath to protect your bench surface. discussions about methods, ingredients, shaped pretzels on a board, uncovered, The silpain sheet proved to be a solution products and ease of production. It was a and then retard. Eighteen to 24 hours later, that several of the students were seeking; phenomenal experience to be in a bake- dip the pretzels in the lye solution for pretzels sticking to the parchment paper shop with so many dedicated craftspeople, about 30 seconds, sprinkle with pretzel was a shared frustration. When we baked all of whom possessed the common goals salt and mark deeply. the pretzels on the silpain, we were able of increasing their skills and knowledge, to achieve both the right crust and a quick, paired with their willingness to share all We had the advantage and ease of using clean release. that they have experienced and learned a German pretzel-dipping station that through their years of baking. ✹ Jory acquired in Germany in 2009. It is The pretzels were baked in a dry deck a very clever tool because it minimizes oven at 435°F. For the first six to eight any contact you might have with the lye minutes, they were baked on the screens and lye-dipped pretzels. You place the and the silpain. To finish the bake, the retarded pretzels into a perforated tray screen was removed, and the silpain in a shallow pool of lye solution, and with was placed directly on the deck. As a small handle, gently lower the pretzels the pretzels came out of the oven, and flip them over onto a silpain sheet. they possessed the characteristic rich You then transfer the silpain sheet onto a mahogany exterior color.

Sprinkling salt on the pretzel. Shawna Sloan and Lauren Top: Proofed pretzels Finished pretzels, showing the Peterson of Zingerman's Bottom: Loading the pretzels into characteristic deep mahogany color. Bakehouse in Ann Arbor, MI. the oven.

bread lines – summer 2011 { 13 } breadville usa

pretzel dough with prefermented dough Contributed by Jory Downer ......

Jory Downer’s pretzels have the mixing method and final dough characteristic knotted shape, nutty : Mix using an "Improved Mix." Process – Pretzel Dough Preferment flavor, and deep brown color of traditional : Final dough temperature: 76-77°F. Mixing type of mixer Spiral German pretzels. : The dough should rest on the bench for 15 minutes. First fermentation length of time 1 hour @ room temp, then shaping and proofing place in cooler t ran Scale the dough at 114g. : 12 - 36 hours Round loosely and immediately roll each : Dough temp 76°F piece into a log about 5 inches long. s: eric ful : Place logs on floured board and allow to Final Dough rest 10 minutes. Mixing type of mixer Spiral P hoto : Wipe off flour to ensure a good surface Mix style Improved for shaping. 1st speed 3 - 5 mins : Please see Nancy Carey’s article, “Ameri- 2nd speed 2 - 3 mins can Baking in the Heartland,” for a Dough temp 76°F thorough description of the final shaping First fermentation length of time 15 mins method. Shaping Divide 114 kg : After the pretzels are shaped, place them Preshape 5 inch log on a board, uncovered and retard for 18- Resting time 10 mins 24 hours. Shape Pretzel baking Proofing device Wooden board : Prior to baking carefully dip the pretzels Proof & Bake Final proof time 18 hrs @ 38°F in a lye solution. Oven type Deck : The pretzels are baked in a dry deck Steam No oven at 435°F. Total bake 12 - 15 mins : For the first 6-8 minutes the pretzels are Temperature 435°F baked on screens. : After this they are placed directly on the deck. ✹

pretzel dough with prefermented dough

Total Flour Total Dough Weight (TDW) 10.000 kg Prefermented 24.50% Total FormulA Prefermented dough final dough Ingredients % kilograms % kilograms Ingredients kilograms Total Flour 100.00% 5.947 kg 100.00% 1.457 kg Total Flour 4.490 kg Bread Flour* 100.00% 5.947 kg 100.00% 1.457 kg Bread Flour 4.490 kg Water 28.00% 1.665 kg 66.00% 0.962 kg Water 0.704 kg Milk 28.00% 1.665 kg Milk 1.665 kg Salt 2.00% 0.119 kg 2.00% 0.029 kg Salt 0.090 kg Yeast, fresh 0.40% 0.024 kg 1.00% 0.015 kg Yeast 0.009 kg Butter, unsalted 5.00% 0.297 kg Butter, unsalted 0.297 kg Sugar 2.00% 0.119 kg Sugar 0.119 kg Dough Conditioner 2.00% 0.119 kg Baking Agent 0.119 kg TOP: Pretzels produced in the Guild class, American Baking in the Heartland. BOTTOM: Diastatic Malt 0.50% 0.030 kg Diastatic Malt 0.030 kg Students in the class took detailed notes. Baking Powder 0.25% 0.015 kg Baking Powder 0.015 kg Prefermented Dough 2.462 kg Totals 168.15% 10.000 kg 169.00% 2.462 kg 10.000 kg *Bread Flour is Hard Winter Wheat (11.7%-11.9% protein)

{ 14 } the bread bakers guild of america breadville usa paczki Contributed by Jory Downer ...... Fillings for paczki range from the ordinary (apple) to the exotic Paczki (pronounced (rosehip jam). Bennison’s Bakery poonch-KEE), are Process – Paczki Dough also fills paczki with strawberries, fried, doughnut- Preferment Mixing type of mixer Spiral or raspberries, prunes, chocolate like Polish vertical planetary mousse, custard, and sweet cheese. pastries with sweet fillings. In First fermentation length of time 1 hour @ room Polish-American temp, then place in cooler homes, they are Strawberry paczki 12 - 36 hours often made on Shrove Dough temp 76°F Tuesday. This was originally done to use up the sugar, fat, eggs, and fruit in the Final Dough Chocolate mousse paczki house before Lent began. Mixing type of mixer Spiral or vertical planetary Mix style Intensive process : Mix all except butter and shortening, for First fermentation length of time 1 hour 3 minutes in low, with hook. Shaping Divide 60g pieces Add fats and mix until clean up. : Preshape Round Ferment 1 hour, and divide into 60g : Resting time None pieces. Cheese paczki Shape Round : Round, proof and fry. : Split fried paczki in half lengthwise and Proof & Bake Final proof time 1 hour fill with with desired filling, e.g. whipped Oven type Fryer cream and strawberries, chocolate Temperature 350°F mousse, custard. : Dust with confectioner's sugar or add icing, depending upon filling.✹

Apple paczki

paCZki

Total Flour Total Dough Weight (TDW) 19.102 kg Prefermented 6.40% Total FormulA Prefermented dough final dough Ingredients % kilograms % kilograms Ingredients kilograms

Total Flour 100.00% 10.022 kg 100.00% 0.642 kg Total Flour 9.381 kg Apricot paczki Bread Flour* 78.35% 7.852 kg 100.00% 0.642 kg Bread Flour 7.211 kg Pastry Flour 21.65% 2.170 kg Pastry Flour 2.170 kg Water 4.22% 0.423 kg 66.00% 0.423 kg Salt 1.50% 0.150 kg 2.00% 0.013 kg Salt 0.137 kg Yeast, fresh 5.46% 0.547 kg 1.00% 0.006 kg Yeast 0.541 kg Milk 46.01% 4.611 kg Milk 4.611 kg Sugar 10.83% 1.085 kg Sugar 1.085 kg Custard paczki Eggs 5.41% 0.542 kg Eggs 0.542 kg Egg Yolks 5.41% 0.542 kg Egg Yolks 0.542 kg Baking Powder 1.35% 0.135 kg Baking Powder 0.135 kg Butter 5.00% 0.501 kg Butter 0.501 kg Vegetable Shortening 5.41% 0.542 kg Vegetable Shortening 0.542 kg Prefermented Dough 1.084 kg Totals 190.60% 19.101 kg 169.00% 1.084 kg 19.101 kg Prune paczki

*Bread Flour is Hard Winter Wheat (11.7%-11.9% protein) Photos: courtesy of jory Downer bread lines – summer 2011 { 15 } regional BAKING wn Southwestern Breads s: A nne tt e B r o

By jeffrey klopatek Guild Member and Senior Scientist in Sustainability, P hoto Arizona State University when one mentions breads of the I was able to acquire some of the flour Southwest, visions of corn bread and from Monica (www.sustainablegrains.org) chillies come to mind. However, corn and try it out. It is easy to see why this Hornos on bread has origins in eastern North was used extensively for flatbreads, as its the Santa America, and the early cowboys of the dough is extremely extensible and not Ana Pueblo Southwest were known more for their very elastic. Stone ground by Giusto’s Mill Ranchito, New Mexico sourdough flatbreads and pancakes. In of San Francisco, it runs between 12 and truth, the Southwest has a long and 13% protein, and as a whole wheat flour the taste of corn flour was and is still occasionally painful baking history. has an ash content of 1.7%. Baked goods preferred by many. Baking is often done Native Americans had been eating corn have a pleasing light lemon yellow color in communal beehive ovens or hornos flatbreads for more than 3,000 years when finished. I have been successful (photos above). Recipes for the use of before the Spanish arrived. Their grain of using it for English muffins. They have a wheat flour are often approximate. For choice was maize or corn, what the Zuni nice cell structure with 30% of the flour example, a recipe for pueblo or adobe called Tâ’a, the “seed of seeds.” It was coming from a bread flour levain. bread (Söhövosvölaviki) taken from the virtually the essence of their identity. The Similar to many other peoples of the Hopi Recipe CD is as follows: men raised it and the women cooked it, world, Native American cultures such as primarily as flatbreads or tortillas, still a Fill a small saucepan half full of warm the Hohokam, now vanished, prepared : common practice today. water and dissolve 6 packages of active much of their food in family or communal dry yeast in it. Set aside. One of the most fundamental cultural roasting pits or hornos (Spanish for Meanwhile, empty ¾ of a 25 lb. bag of clashes between Native Americans and ovens). They used then, as they do : flour into a washtub; add salt to taste, Spaniards in the colonial period revolved today, seeds from flowering plants (chia, and mix well with hands. Now add the around the staple grains of corn and amaranth, sunflowers, piñon ”nuts,” yeast and enough additional warm water wheat. The Spanish introduced wheat to pumpkin seeds, etc.) or grains that were to make stiff dough. (Test water on your the Native Americans, rather forcefully. naturally available. Some of these seeds wrist to make sure it is lukewarm.) Work Men were conscripted into both the and grains were pounded into flours to dough with your hands until all lumps farming of the wheat and the baking produce flatbreads. are dissolved. Cover and set aside in a of the bread, and Mexico City market A native product that is still in use today warm place to rise. Punch down with women sold wheat flour-based bread is mesquite flour. Mesquite trees are hands and knead until elastic. Form to the Spanish by 1550. The Spanish members of the legume family, and their dough into loaves, let rise again and missionaries introduced wheat to the beans and pods are dried and ground up bake. Native Americans, in what would become to make a high protein mesquite ”flour.” the United States Southwest, in the mid- The pueblo women measure the tempera- Early explorers wrote about how the 1600s. Wheat harvest of up to 50,000 ture in the horno by throwing a corn husk Indians of New Mexico and Arizona made bushels per year was reported in the late into it. If it blackens, the temperature is a bread of the ground-up mesquite pods. 1700s in the San Diego area. However, too hot, probably over 400oF. If it browns It has a distinctive sweet, slightly nutty flour was still produced by Native and holds some color, it’s 350oF. flavor. Today, artisan breads use only American women, who ground the dried about 10% of mesquite flour by weight, grains by hand on their metates. The recipe made about 25 one-pound because of its strong flavor, The flour has rounded loaves or coronas of six The wheat first grown in Mexico that occasionally gone by the name of “pinole.” individual balls of dough. The Hopi found its way to the Southwest was a hard Pinole is actually a meal made of ground women who own beehive‑type ovens white wheat, now referred to as Sonora corn or wheat and mesquite bean, sugar large enough to bake this quantity shared wheat. It was grown in the Southwest (honey), and spices. Often this was rolled this convenience with relatives and continuously until about 1960, and it was into a ball and used as “energy food.” friends in exchange for one or two loaves revived from USDA seed stock beginning of the bread. The pueblo-dwelling Native Americans in the 1990s by Monica Spiller of the eventually took wheat flour and baked Whole Grain Connection. (Currently, in Some pueblo women made their own bread into their culture, and it is now Arizona the principal wheat crop is durum, leaveners by cooking cornmeal, potatoes, a mainstay in their diets, although primarily for pasta mills.) and sugar together to make a stiff dough.

{ 16 } the bread bakers guild of america regional BAKING

Process – Sonora Whole White Wheat English Muffins sonora whole white Preferment – Liquid Levain wheat english muffins Mixing Type of mixer By hand or mixer Photo: Jeffrey Klopatek First fermentation length of time 12-15 hours Contributed by Temperature 74°F Jeffrey klopatek Final Dough Mixing Type of mixer Spiral MIXING METHOD Mix style Improved final dough 1st speed 2 mins : Mix Levain, water and Sonora flour Autolyse 30 mins for 2 minutes. 1st speed 5 mins : Autolyse for 30 minutes. 2nd speed 2 mins : Add remaining ingredients and mix. Dough temp 78°F shaping and proofing Bulk fermentation length of time 1 hr 30 mins : After fermentation and dough doubles in size, stretch out dough on bench to ¾" thickness. Sonora Whole White Wheat English Muffins : Using a well-floured 3½ inch circular Total Flour cutter, cut out muffins. Total Dough Weight (TDW) 1.913 kg Prefermented 30.00% : Dip both sides of each piece in a tray of corn meal. Total Formula Levain final dough Ingredients % kilograms % kilograms Ingredients kilograms baking Total Flour 100.00% 1.000 kg 100.00% 0.300 kg Total Flour 0.700 kg : Place pieces on a 325°F griddle. Bread Flour* 30.00% 0.300 kg 100.00% 0.300 kg Grill for 4-5 minutes per side. Sonora Whole White Wheat Flour 70.00% 0.700 kg Sonora Flour 0.700 kg : Finish in a 350°F oven for 10-12 Water 75.00% 0.750 kg 100.00% 0.300 kg Water 0.450 kg minutes. Salt 1.80% 0.018 kg Salt 0.018 kg : Cool on rack. ✹ Non-Fat Dry Milk Solids 2.50% 0.025 kg Non-Fat Dry Mlk Slds 0.025 kg Honey 2.00% 0.020 kg Honey 0.020 kg Butter, soft 2.50% 0.025 kg Butter, soft 0.025 kg Sour Mother 7.50% 0.075 kg 25.00% 0.075 kg Levain 0.674 kg Totals 19 1.30% 1.913 kg 225.00% 0.675 kg 1.912 kg *Bread Flour is Hard Winter Wheat (11.7%-11.9% protein)

They then pressed it and cut it into two- Flavors of the Southwest,” stated that corn breads made with ashes is piki bread, inch squares that were dried and stored. “corn and chillies work so well together a delicacy of pueblo dwellers that is a One square provided enough leavening in breads.” The native use of corn in paper-thin cracker bread, often rolled. It for four loaves of bread. They also used breads is often accompanied by the use is made from ash water and cornmeal pâte fermentée that was rolled thin and of culinary ashes. Culinary ashes use (often blue corn) on a glass-smooth piki dried. The dried leftovers were ground, is widespread throughout Arizona and stone over an open fire. Bone marrow fat soaked in water and added to make the New Mexico, and sources vary from tribe or deer brain fat are used to lubricate new dough. to tribe. The Hopi use the ash of four- the stone. (I guess for vegetarians, some wing saltbush (chamisa), while Navajos other lubricant would be needed.) The Discussion of Southwestern baking use the ash of juniper branches. The crepe-like dough is spread with the hand always comes back to corn and chillies. chamisa has a high nutritional value onto the hot stone until done. Barbara Fenzyl, the noted Southwestern and is added to water to make an ash cookbook author and regional cooking The recent artisan revival has brought in broth that is strained and then added maven, stresses the use of native and a melding of Native American influences to blue corn meal. It also unbinds the locally grown chillies and corn in recipes. into the bread world: green chili-jack niacin in the corn so it provides a more Guild member Jeff Yankellow, in his cheese potato bread, buttermilk cornmeal complete protein. Its high alkalinity acts recent Guild class, “Artisan Breads: to enhance the blue color. One of the Continued on page 26 bread lines – summer 2011 { 17 } breadville usa

artisan breads: LEFT: Some of the vibrant ingredients used in the breads that day flavors of the southwest (jalapeño and fresno ...... chilies, fresh sweet corn) RIGHT: Closeup of the By Zach Langenkamp pecan mesquite filones Guild Member and Director of Product Development, Blue Baker s a native Texan and a Bread Bakers AGuild of America member, I was seriously Jeff spent a few minutes at the beginning after the lye bath was incomparably deli- excited when I heard that we were having of the day to explain his vision for the cious. The New Mexico Green Chili and the first-ever Guild class in Texas, taught class. He had moved to Arizona over Jack batards used a liquid levain, baked by none other than Jeff Yankellow. I’m five years ago to open an artisan bakery potatoes, roasted green chilies (or hatch fortunate enough to have taken several and was introduced to many ingredients chilies), roasted garlic, and Monterey jack classes from Jeff when he was instructing exclusive to the cuisine of the Southwest cheese to pack a serious flavor punch. at the San Francisco Baking Institute; the region, some of which we used in the class The potatoes added an incredible soft, chance to take another class from him, to create very interesting, unique flavor moist texture to the final product. Jeff inspired by new, bold flavors from the profiles. In fact, all the breads we ended used his Chipotle Garlic Ciabatta not only Southwest, was too good to pass up. The up making that day were original recipes to highlight the flavors of roasted garlic one day, nine hour class was hosted by Jeff created specifically for the class, and and chipotle pepper, but also to demon- the newly opened third campus of the he crafted them in order to showcase strate the technique to make a traditional Culinary Institute of America located in not only different flavors but different Ciabatta. He explained that for reasons San Antonio, Texas. The campus is set techniques used in traditional artisan still not completely understood, garlic among restored buildings of what used to bread baking. has a tendency to break down the gluten be the Pearl Brewery near downtown San structure in bread – generally it’s safe to The Southwest Corn and Chili Fougasse Antonio, and the CIA graciously hosted use it in amounts of up to 10% in the total incorporated a sponge, along with sweet the class in their brand-new facilities, formula. To combat this effect, he used a corn kernels and chopped jalapeño and which was a real treat. small amount of liquid levain as well as the fresno chilies, and was actually finished in more traditional poolish to reinforce the a lye bath for a traditional pretzel finish. strength of the bread. The mild heat from the chilies contrasted per- These three breads all used very fectly with the sweetness interesting ingredients to create great of the fresh corn, and the flavor combinations, but the most crust made from baking interesting regional, unique ingredient had to be the mesquite flour used in the Pecan Mesquite Filones. Mesquite flour (actually more of a meal in texture) is made from grinding the dried seed pods of the mesquite tree which thrives

TOP LEFT: The breads ready to eat at the end of the day (front to back: Pecan Mesquite Filone, New Mexico Chili and Jack batard, Southwest Corn and Chili fougasse) BOTTOM LEFT: Jeff Yankellow demonstrates a proper fold during bulk fermentation RIGHT: Jeff Yankellow demonstrates the do’s and don’ts of using a lye bath. ed n ot erwise oth h langenkam p unless : zac P hotoS

{ 18 } the bread bakers guild of america breadville usa

March 19 artisan breads: flavors of the southwest

Hosted by The Culinary Institute of America, San Antonio San Antonio, TX Alain Dubernard – Liaison

Instructor Jeff Yankellow

throughout the Southwest. This flour was we added a liquid levain to the mix and bakers, and Jeff smoothly switched an important part of the diet of native incorporated one fold during the bulk gears between explaining the basics of North American Indians for centuries, fermentation. traditional pre-ferments and discussing and lends a completely unique flavor and the subtle nuances of using different It had been a good five years since I had aroma. It also has a very low glycemic levels of levain to influence final dough taken a class from Jeff, but I was quickly index, making it wonderful for diabetics, characteristics. I’m sure that no matter reminded why he is so well-regarded and is high in protein and low in fat. Jeff what their skill level, all the students that as a teacher; Jeff possesses that rare fermented all the mesquite flour in the day walked away with a new appreciation ability not only to excel as a master of his bread in a poolish to bring out the full for pairing unusual regional ingredients craft, but also to convey his considerable range of aromas – when I smelled the with traditional artisan techniques to knowledge and skill to others in a way fully fermented poolish, I was amazed at create delicious new breads. that is totally accessible and easy to ✹ the rich mix of spices: cocoa, cinnamon, understand. The flyer for Formula on next page and its own, indescribably exotic scent. the class labeled the skill The recipe paired this flour with candied level as “intermediate,” orange and roasted pecans, ingredients but the makeup of also found commonly in the Southwest. the class varied from Because mesquite flour detracts from enthusiastic home bakers the overall strength of the final dough, to veteran professional o e

ABOVE: Abby Thomas practices scoring while Christine Goldsmith looks on TOP RIGHT: Jeff Yankellow answers a question for George Blanford while Phyllis Enloe looks on BOTTOM RIGHT: Pecan Mesquite Bread uses a mesquite poolish and liquid levain, and contains pecan pieces and candied orange peel : ph yllis enl P hoto bread lines – summer 2011 { 19 } breadville usa

pecan mesquite Contributed by Jeff Yankellow ......

This bread showcases three ingredients Process – Pecan Mesquite that grow very close to each other in Preferments – Liquid Levain and the Southwest: oranges, pecans, and Mesquite Poolish h L angenkam p : Z ac P hoto mesquite. Mesquite meal was an Mixing Type of mixer hand or mixer important food source to the Native First fermentation length of time 12-15 hours Americans in the Southwest and offers Temperature 74°F a sweet, smoky flavor with hints of Final Dough cinnamon and chocolate. Mixing Type of mixer Spiral poolish & levain Mix style Improved Place all dry ingredients and starters in a medium stage or improved mix. The 1st speed 2 mins : bowl. dough should be soft as the pecans will Autolyse 20 mins Adjust the water temperature for a final absorb moisture. 1st speed 5 mins : Let the dough ferment in a covered 2nd speed 3 mins temperature of 74°F. : Dough temp 75°F : Mix until well incorporated and smooth. container at 73°-75°F. : Cover and ferment at 75°F for : Give 1 fold at 1 hour. First fermentation length of time 2 hours approximately 12-15 hours. : After 2 hours total, divide the dough Number of folds 1 into 750g pieces. Pre-shape as cylinders, final dough Timing for folds At 1 hour cover and rest for 20 minutes. : In the bowl of a spiral or vertical Shaping Divide .750 kg planetary mixer with hook attachment, shaping & proofing Preshape Cylinder place the poolish, levain and bread flour. : Shape as filone or short baguettes with Resting time 20 mins Adjust the water temperature for a final pointed ends. Place on linen that has Shape Filone : dough temperature of 73°-75°F. Add been dusted with flour, seam up. Proofing device Floured the water and mix for 2 minutes to Proof at 75°F for about 90 minutes. linen - : incorporate and hydrate the ingredients. seam up baking : Allow the dough to rest for 20 minutes : Transfer loaves to loader or peel. Proof & Bake Final proof time 1.5-2 hours for an autolyse. : Score with one cut or with 3 cuts in the Oven type Deck Add the yeast and salt. Mix on speed 1 to : style of a baguette and bake at 480°F Steam Yes incorporate the ingredients. 25-30 mins with steam for approximately 25-30 Total bake : Mix in speed 2 to develop the dough to Temperature 480°F minutes. ✹

pecan mesquite

Total Flour Fermented in Poolish 17.20% Total Flour Bread Flour 10.00% Total Flour Total Dough Weight (TDW) 10.000 kg Fermented in Levain 15.00% Mesquite Flour 100.00% Prefermented 32.20% Total Formula liquid levain mesquite poolish final dough Ingredients % kilograms % kilograms % kilograms Ingredients kilograms Total Flour 100.00% 4.809 kg 100.00% 0.721 kg 100.00% 0.827 kg Total Flour 3.261 kg Bread Flour 92.00% 4.424 kg 100.00% 0.721 kg 53.49% 0.442 kg Bread Flour 3.261 kg Mesquite Flour 8.00% 0.385 kg 46.51% 0.385 kg Water 71.00% 3.414 kg 100.00% 0.721 kg 100.00% 0.827 kg Water 1.866 kg Salt 2.00% 0.096 kg Salt 0.096 kg Instant Yeast 0.20% 0.010 kg 0.10% 0.001 kg Instant Yeast 0.009 kg Pecan Pieces, toasted 25.00% 1.202 kg Pecan Pieces, toasted 1.202 kg Candied Orange, diced 6.00% 0.289 kg Candied Orange, diced 0.289 kg Sour Seed 3.75% 0.180 kg 25.00% 0.180 Liquid Levain 1.623 kg Mesquite Poolish 1.655 kg Totals 207.95% 10.000 kg 225.00% 1.622 kg 200.10% 1.655 kg 10.000 kg *Bread Flour is Hard Winter Wheat (11.7%-11.9% protein)

{ 20 } the bread bakers guild of america baking 101

a k i n g • b • • • • 101 • Mixing and Techniques – Part I

By Didier Rosada

excerpted from breadlines · 2002 · volume 10 · issue 3

Many bakers consider mixing the most ingredients precisely. I know that some- to be added. But, all the other ingredients important step in baking. As seen times baking is not considered a very were calculated on the original weight of before in a precedent article (Newsletter precise science, unfortunately, but having the flour, not including the added flour- Volume 6 Issue 3), all steps of the baking all the ingredients scaled properly will The result will be an imbalance in the process are connected and all of them are insure a well-balanced formula and at the formula if the quantity of added flour is important. However, knowing that mixing same time a very consistent end product. fairly large. is the first mandatory step to produce The second important thing is to calcu- A special note related to dough mixed in bread, a lot of attention must be given to late the water temperature. As seen in the this stage of the baking process. vertical mixer or mixer without a bowl- preceding article by Marsha de Angelis reverse option: if flour is placed first in Numerous functional and crucial dough (Bread Lines Volume 10 lssue 1), water the bowl, it might be possible that some characteristics, such as consistency, temperature will depend on a lot of fac- of it will get stuck in the bottom without gluten development, and dough tors including temperature of the bakery, being incorporated into the dough. One temperature will be determined during temperature of the preferment, mixing way to prevent this problem is to add mixing. The goal of this two-part article time, etc. Taking all of these variables half of the water first, then all of the flour will be to present in a very detailed way into consideration, the baker must define and the rest of the water, until the dough what is really happening when we mix the adequate water temperature to use consistency is achieved. dough. More precisely, the following in order to get the desired dough tem- 2 Ingredient Incorporation topics will be covered: perature at the end of the mixing. This When the ingredients are scaled and : Steps to follow in order to successfully desired dough temperature could be water temperature determined, flour and mix a dough to the dough- different depending on the type of bread water are placed in the bowl. The mixer : What is happening during the mixing of produced. In general, it is between 73°F is then turned on in first speed. During the dough and 78°F. Next, and once again this might the next three to four minutes flour and : Precautions to take when mixing extra seem very logical, it is necessary to make water will be combined together by the ingredients Into the dough sure that the mixer bowl and hook are mechanical action of the mixer’s dough : Different mixing techniques -and their clean. It only takes a few seconds to clean hook. During this time, the baker must applications scraps of dried dough still stuck to the watch the consistency of the dough : How to determine mixing time bowl. If they are left there, they might not carefully. If more water is needed, this is : Factors affecting mixing time dissolve properly into the next dough and the best time to add it to the dough. : What technique to choose in a will be found, hard as a rock, in the final production environment product to the probable disappointment If preferments are used, they should be Steps to follow in order to of the customer. incorporated into the dough at this stage. Depending on the type of preferment successfully mix a dough The last thing is to try to put the flour (high or low hydration), the consistency Mixing is a procedure that could be first in the bowl and then add the other of the dough might be changed, and some divided in four important steps. If all liquids and water. The idea is to avoid water adjustments might be necessary. those steps are carefully achieved, the changing the weight of the flour. In result will be properly mixed dough and a general, formulas are designed using When the consistency is achieved, two very consistent final product. baker’s percent where all the ingredients options are possible. One is to continue 1 Preparation before mixing are based on the total weight of the flour. mixing and incorporate the other ingredi- This first step might sound very simple, For example, if the water is added first, ents of the dough like yeast and then salt, but it is definitely an important one.Be - then the flour, and the baker realizes that or the baker “autolyses” the dough. fore mixing, it is important to scale all the the dough is too soft, more flour will have Continued on next page bread lines – summer 2011 { 21 } baking 101

When using liquid preferments has been obtained or not. If the Mixing and like poolish or liquid levain, their temperature is good, then the baker can Techniques – Part I incorporation must happen at the follow his regular baking process. If the beginning of the mixing process, even temperature of the dough is too cold or Continued from previous page if an autolyse is done. Their low yeast too warm, the first fermentation time will content won’t really affect the strength of need to be adjusted: longer for cooler The autolyse is a process, developed by the dough. Stiffer preferment with more dough temperature, shorter for warmer Professor Raymond Calvel, when the yeast, like pre-fermented dough, should dough temperature. The difference in flour and water are allowed to rest foi’a be incorporated after the autolyse time. temperature would have to be taken into minimum of fifteen to twenty minutes. consideration for troubleshooting the Technically speaking, when no autolyse is During this time two important reactions next batch of dough (increase or decrease made, flour, water, yeast and salt could be will happen in the dough. The first one is of the water temperature). incorporated at the beginning of the mix- a better hydration of the proteins of the ing. Despite the common belief that salt A common mistake in many bakeries is to flour, leading to a better gluten quality. will kill the yeast, no change would hap- continue mixing if the temperature of the The second one is a natural action of the pen in the dough or bread characteristics. dough is too cold. For sure this process protease, an enzyme naturally present The salt and yeast will be in contact in will warm up the dough due to the extra in the flour. When allowed enough time the dough for the next 4 to 6 hours after friction, but this extra mixing time will to work, the proteases of the flour will mixing, so if something would happen, it also continue to develop the gluten of react on the protein and degrade some of would have plenty of time to happen. the dough. As an end result we might get the gluten bonds. As a result, the dough the desired dough temperature, but the will become more extensible and its However, in order to have better control dough is likely to be over-developed. So, machinability will be improved. over the ingredient incorporation and to adjusting the first fermentation time is a make sure that no ingredients have been No salt is used in the autolyse. Its natural much safer and advised procedure. forgotten, it is better to follow a standard action of slowing down the chemical procedure in regards to the addition of Good precision and some attention reaction would also slow down the action ingredients into the dough. For example, during all of these steps should lead to of the proteases of the flour. if the baker always adds yeast, then the the dough being properly mixed. Let’s No yeast is added at this time. Yeast salt, before going into second speed, discuss now what istechnically happening generates fermentation, fermentation there is less chance of error or better odds during the formation of the dough. generates acidity and acidity increases of noticing a mistake. Two main types of changes are happening the strength of the dough. 3 Dough development during the mixing of the dough: the phys- And, in general, autolyse is done to When all the ingredients are well ical changes and the chemical changes. increase dough extensibility, therefore incorporated and the dough consistency Physical changes happening decreasing the strength of the dough. has been achieved, the baker will go to during formation of the dough the next step: dough development. After the autolyse, yeast and salt are As soon as flour and water are in added to the dough. This step, depending on the desired contact, the water will hydrate the flour dough development, could be components. The two main components Notes: done in first speed or second speed. of the flour are the starch and the protein. When using Dried Instant Yeast, it is better to incorporate the yeast with the The mixing time depends on the desired Two main, types of starch are found in the flour for one minute at the beginning gluten development. A long mixing flour, the native starch and the damaged of the mixing time. Because of their low time in second speed is used for well- starch. The native starch absorbs water water content, cells of Dried Instant Yeast developed dough, and a short mixing time on the outside of the particle only, will need more time to re-hydrate. A late in first speed is used for under-developed damaged starch absorbs close to its own incorporation could result in yeast not dough. More precise guidelines will be weight in water. completely dissolved into the dough and presented later in the article. Both starches will play the role of filling a fermentation activity affected. The gluten structure development agent in a dough system. The same principle could be applied depends also on the characteristics that Proteins, depending on their quality can for an autolyse. Because mixing time we are looking for in the final product. absorb 200% to 250% of their weight in is reduced when an autolyse is done, it This will also be discussed later. water. These proteins will inflate, and is better to incorporate the Dry Instant 4 After mixing when inflated will have the natural Yeast just before the autolyse. The time Because fermentation activity is property of being attracted to each other they will get dissolve into the dough, the dependent on the temperature of the and will form chains of proteins called the autolyse time will be almost over and the dough, it is important for the baker to gluten of the dough. fermentation of the dough still minimum. check if the desired dough temperature

{ 22 } the bread bakers guild of america baking 101

Once the gluten has been formed, the able to keep a good control on his process, Incorporation of other mechanical movement of the dough hook the baker will have to reduce the level of ingredients into a dough system will work the gluten into an organized yeast in the formula. It will be difficult to discuss every structure. If one looks carefully at the ingredient that is added to the dough Another important chemical change mixer’s hook working in dough, two in every bakery, but some observations happening during mixing time is the distinct movements can be observed. The about the main ones could be helpful. oxidation of the dough. This reaction first part of the movement stretches the is due to the air naturally incorporated 1 Incorporation of fat chains of gluten and the second part folds in the dough during mixing. The air A smaller percentage (2 to 4%) of solid the chains of gluten over onto themselves. contains oxygen, which will have some fat, like butter or margarine, could be After a period of mixing, the chains of effects in the dough. incorporated at the beginning of the gluten become longer and longer, finer mixing time with flour and water. To a certain point, the effect of the and finer, and more and more overlapped. oxygen will be positive. The oxygen will A larger percentage (5 to 15%) of solid fat This creates the three-dimensional gluten chemically react with the molecules of should be incorporated when the dough structure of the dough. protein to form better gluten bounds. is at 50% of development (in general in A long mix will generate a gluten This will naturally reinforce the gluten the middle of the second speed time). An structure that is well developed, and structure and the tolerance of the dough. earlier incorporation (at the beginning a shorter mix will generate a gluten of the mixing time) would delay the Too much oxygen (long mixing time), will structure that is under-developed. A development of the gluten and increases negatively affect some flour components mixing time that is too long will stretch the mixing time. The fat would “lubricate” called carotenoid pigments. The the gluten chains to the point where they the chains of proteins, delaying the pigments are natural components of the will break. This is what we call over- bounding of the gluten. kernel of wheat and are responsible for mixing the dough. the creamy color of the flour and some More than 15% solid fat should be Due to the overlapping and better organi- aroma production. Too much oxygen incorporated when the gluten is almost zation of the gluten chains, the structure will deteriorate these pigments and fully developed. This will insure a strong of the gluten will get stronger. A notice- automatically lead to a final product with dough structure able to support this able change in the rheology of the dough a white crumb color and a bland flavor. massive incorporation of fat. can be observed. The dough is becoming Despite the negative effect of too much, Liquid fats, like oil, are in general part less extensible, more elastic and able oxygen, some air is still necessary. of the hydration of the flour and should to trap gas. Visco-elastic properties are During mixing, micro cells of air will be be incorporated into the dough at the developed, or more simply the dough introduced into the dough system. These beginning of the mixing time. If a large increases in strength and gas retention. micro cells will play an important role quantity of oil is used, it is also possible Note related to mixing time in first speed |star in the baking process by forming to incorporate it after the full gluten Starch will absorb water faster than pro- the core of the crumb structure during development (very slowly in first speed). tein. Protein hydration is a little slower. fermentation, the gas produced by the 2 Incorporation of sugar To insure a good gluten quality, it is yeast will accumulate in these micro cells A small amount of sugar (up to 12%) can necessary to mix in first speed for at least and form the “alveoles” of the crumb. be incorporated into the dough at the five or even six minutes for a larger batch. Note related to the oxidation beginning of the mixing time. If we switch the mixer too early to second To slow down the negative effect of the speed, we might start to organize gluten Higher levels should be incorporated in oxidation, one specific property of the salt that is barely created and therefore penal- several steps. Sugar being a hydroscopic can be used. Salt has a natural property of ize the gluten development of the dough. ingredient, it will have the tendency to slowing down all the chemical reactions absorb a lot of water. If too much sugar is Chemical changes happening (this is why we used to use it to increase introduced to the dough at once, it might during formation of the dough the shelf life of foods - cured meats or take some water away from the protein, When water is introduced in the mix, salted fish). By incorporating the salt disorganizing the whole gluten structure. it will start all the chemical reactions into the dough at the beginning of the naturally happening in a dough system. mixing time (while the mixer is still in When levels of sugar are very high The two main ones are fermentation first speed), the oxidation process will (20 to 30%), some bakers use the same activity and enzyme activity. It is naturally, be slowed down. technique as for high level of butter: interesting to know for the baker, that sugar is left out of the dough and On the other hand, if the baker wants to depending on the quantity of water, the incorporated when the gluten is well achieve a very white crumb structure, rate of these reactions will be affected. For developed. the incorporation of the salt must be exam pie, wet dough will generate faster delayed. As a side effect, flavor will also fermentation activity, and, in order to be be penalized. Continued on next page bread lines – summer 2011 { 23 }

GUILD news

Remembering By Abe Faber Guild Board Member and Mixing and Bernard Co-Owner of Clear Flour Bread, Brookline, MA Techniques – Part I “It is nice today to feel that many of us Continued from previous page here in this room are coming into our layton 3 Incorporation of eggs C own, engaging the craft of artisan bak- ing in a way that is becoming uniquely Eggs should be incorporated at the Bernard Clayton, Jr., passed away on ‘American,’ but I am very mindful of the beginning of the mixing, as they will March 28, 2011, in Bloomington, Indiana, enormous debt we owe to this [here I play a major role in the hydration of the at the age of 94. He had an illustrious held up his book, Breads of France early flour. It is recommended, even though career as a newspaper reporter and research and communication of the some formulas call for only eggs to editor, but we at The Bread Bakers Guild techniques on which so many of us now hydrate the flour, to always add some of America remember him as an inspira- base our daily work. Bernard Clayton water. Eggs don’t have the same flour tional baker and groundbreaking author. has had a strong presence in my bakery hydration characteristics compared to for 20 years, through his clear and often water. To insure a good gluten quality, I have great memories of meeting Ber- inspiring stories, recipes and descrip- at least 10% of water (in addition to the nard at a special Guild dinner in 2001, tions of technique. For many years this eggs) is necessary. The final product when The Guild honored him for his con- was the single ’textbook’ which we is- will have a lighter and moister crumb tributions to baking education. At that sued to new bakers in an effort to bring texture. event, I had the privilege of introducing them up to speed on the look and feel 4 him and presenting him with a Bread Incorporation of dry ingredients of the wonderful world of baking which Bakers Guild ceramic miche. Ingredients like malt or milk powder they were about to enter. When I asked can be incorporated at the beginning of At our bakery, the recipes and wonder- my wife, Christy, what to say in introduc- the mixing time with flour and water. ful stories of small town French bakers ing Mr. Clayton, she said: “Please make in his book, The Breads of France, were sure to thank him. It is because of him Incorporation of solid ingredients like momentous back in the days before that I’m a baker today.” So, it is with nuts, dry fruits, chocolate chips... resources that we now take for granted, particular pleasure that I now have the Any chunky ingredients that won’t such as The Guild, the San Francisco privilege of being able to thank Mr. Clay- dissolve into the dough must be Baking Institute, the King Arthur Baking ton in person, as I introduce him to you incorporated at the end of the mixing Education Center, or books on baking in as The Bread Bakers Guild of America’s time. Once the gluten has been prop- English. That single book published in guest of honor.” erly developed, the mixer is turned 1978, the result of Bernard’s 7,000 mile back in first speed and the ingredients Now, 10 years later, I want to thank research trip to the small town bakeries are, added to the dough. The dough is Bernard again; to offer a collective thank of France, was our original inspiration. mixed until the ingredients are well you on behalf of our entire artisan bak- distributed into the dough. The final paragraph of my introduction ing community for the enormous work of him at the time was: and spirit and generosity of this man This gentle incorporation will have two who did so much to document and pass positive effects for the dough and the on the skills and knowl- bread. First, the ingredients will stay edge of traditional intact into the dough (the action of the breads and pastry from hook in first speed in very gentle and won’t crush the added ingredients). around the world. ✹ Then, incorporating those ingredients in a gentle way will reduce damage to

Abe Faber presents a the gluten structure. If second speed ceramic miche to Bernard was used, the ingredients would react - Clayton, Jr., at a Guild like razor blades into the dough and cut benefit dinner in Indianapolis, all the gluten bonds that were formed Indiana, in 2001. The event was called “Celebrating during the mixing. American Bread Traditions: This was a general description of the A Culinary Salute to Bernard Clayton, Jr., and mixing process. The next step is to His Contributions to the understand how a thorough knowledge Advancement of Bread of mixing can be used. We will address Baking in America.” this topic in the next issue. Photo: gateway associated photographers ✹

{ 24 } the bread bakers guild of america readers' response

Editor’s Note

A handful of Guild members noted that Joe Ortiz’ Article in issue of 19.1, “Local Grain, Whole Grain Milling” appeared under the heading of “Technical Article” yet they felt that the article did not address the subject in a technical manner. In fact, they were correct. The Ortiz article should have appeared under the heading "Regional Baking," the first article in our Regional Baking series that will continue throughout the year. We are sorry if this caused any confusion. In addition, two Guild Members, upon reading the article, felt that some further clarification was need regarding a number of points raised in the article. Their response to the article is excerpted below.

Defining Whole Wheat Flour

B y thom leonard & randy george

In the March issue of Bread Lines, the eral Mills about how they mill their whole There are numerous mills that produce article entitled “Local Grain, Whole Grain wheat. Our contact confirmed that they stone ground whole wheat flour, and Milling” by Joe Ortiz, some statements produce whole wheat flour on the same some have been doing this for 25 or more were made about “commercial-milled roller mills that they use to make white years. Some Guild bakers even grind their whole wheat flour” that we feel need to flour but that they do put all the sepa- own flour from berries. To the best of our be clarified. The Community Grains web- rated parts back together to arrive at a knowledge, the most common way to site quotes the FDA definition of whole 100% extraction flour. Indeed, the General produce stone-ground whole wheat flour grains: “Cereal grains that consist of the Mills spokesperson cited the same FDA is to run the clean wheat through a pair of intact, ground, cracked or flaked caryopsis, code quoted above and added that it is in quarried or composite stones and reduce whose principal anatomical components a mill’s interest to sell everything they can the whole kernels into flour in a single - the starchy endosperm, germ and bran at food-grade prices as the by-products pass. - are present in the same relative propor- from milling white flour (namely bran and Chef Klein’s promotion of local whole tions as they exist in the intact caryopsis…” germ) are sold mostly as feed, at much grains, along with the Community Grains lower per pound prices. Yet Joe Vanderliet of Certified Foods is project and Craig Ponsford’s new bakery quoted in the article as saying that the Apparently, there is something else that all appear to be positive new develop- germ and aleurone layer are not present in accounts for the different qualities of roll- ments in the whole grain baking world, industrial whole wheat flour and that only er-milled (industrial) versus stone milled and we commend the Bread Lines editors “some of the bran is blended back into whole wheat. The Bread Lines article uses in spotlighting them. On Community the white milled flour.” We assume that it the term “whole milled” repeatedly and Grains website (http://communitygrains. was flour of this type that Craig Ponsford suggests that flour labeled as such has com/aboutus.html) the current movement had tried in the past which led him to the quite different qualities from industrial connecting bakers, millers, and farmers is conclusion that “commercial milled whole whole wheat flour. As this appeared in likened to the food movement that was wheat flour tastes dead.” We have heard a technical article, we may assume that begun in the 1970’s which was (and still is) the same thing over the years about the this is a technical term. Although it isn’t centered around the association of chefs germ being removed from flour that is defined explicitly, it is implied that whole- and farmers. We’re very excited about the sold as “whole wheat,” but given that the milled flour is stone-milled from whole many regional farmer-miller-baker part- FDA requires that “whole wheat flour” wheat kernels and nothing is sifted out. nerships that are springing up around the contains all constituents of the whole This seems to us to be synonymous with country. ✹ wheat kernel in the same proportions as the common term “stoneground whole they naturally occur, we contacted Gen- wheat flour.”

bread lines – summer 2011 { 25 } hot topic Why Genetically Engineered Wheat

By P. Stephen Baenziger Small Grains Breeder, University of Nebraska, Lincoln, NE

With the recent acquisitions of wheat seed variation that is available for wheat Genetically engineered wheat is one of companies and collaborations between improvement, and thus can be very those tools. Is it a critical or key tool? public institutions and private companies valuable, especially when it is understood My largest grant in wheat breeding is for wheat improvement, it is natural to that transgenic variation is for traits that to develop organic wheat cultivars, so wonder if genetically engineered (syn. cannot be found in wheat and its relatives. clearly I believe that the consumer needs genetically modified [GM], transgenic) Simply, if we have the needed genetic choice and that non-transgenic and wheat is on the horizon. Wheat and rice variation within wheat, there is no need for transgenic wheat can co-exist. However, are two of the world’s major crops that transgenic approaches. transgenic wheat is needed to increase currently do not have transgenic products our chances of meeting our future needs However, for many traits, natural (within available on the market. This lack of because we need the additional variation, wheat) genetic variation does not exist, transgenic products is in stark contrast to and the additional investment from the hence the promise of and need for trans- other crops where in 2010 the one billionth private sector that comes from their genic wheat. One example of a beneficial hectare of transgenic crops was planted commercializing transgenic wheat. Will trait that is not possible without trans- (http://isaaa.org/resources/publications/ the advent of transgenic wheat mean genics is ‘winter hardiness’. Transgenic briefs/42/executivesummary/default.asp). that we will end global hunger? Sadly, no. approaches have also been successful in We have the resources to feed the world From a breeder’s perspective, transgenes reducing fusarium head blight. Coupling today and choose not to. The power and are a new source of genetic variation. transgenics with natural resistant could expectations of transgenic wheat cannot Plant breeding has three phases: 1. lead to higher levels of resistance. change the human heart, but it can help The introduction of genetic variation, We have all heard the future predictions provide us with the means to feed the usually done by crossing (making sexual that we will need to feed 9 billion people, world whenever we decide to do so. hybrids), but also through transgenes and which, due to better diets, will be the mutations 2. Inbreeding, which allows P. (Peter) Stephen Baenziger is the equivalent of feeding 12 billion people the introduced variation to segregate Eugene W. Price Distinguished Professor today. Furthermore, we will need to feed (separate into different plant types) and at the University of Nebraska. His research those people with the same amount of selection of useful types, and 3. Extensive focuses on improving the agronomic land and more efficient use of inputs. evaluation to determine if the selected performance and winter hardiness of small Farmers, agronomists, and plant breeders lines have merit for commercial release grains and on developing new breeding will need all the available tools to meet and if so, where they should be grown. methods. this challenge. Transgenic wheat expands the genetic

tribes of southern Arizona adapted by traditions of Sonora with them, including Southwestern Breads growing Sonora wheat. Consequently, large, thick, wheat tortillas, tamales made Arizona tortillas are more often made of green corn rather than the corn flour Continued from page 17 of wheat flour, while corn rules in New made from nixtamal (hominy), More Mexico. The Spanish established Santa than 890,000 legal Mexican immigrants bread with fresh chillies and cheddar Fe in 1609 and their first mission in Texas came to the United States for refuge (Coyote Café), Corn and Chili Fougasse in 1682. They had better luck in New between 1910 and 1920, many to escape (Jeff Yankellow). As chefs and bakers are Mexico than in Arizona. For example, the fighting and for better economic incorporating more local ingredients into Tucson, founded in 1776, remained conditions. With this migration, they put their menus, the adaptation of Native the northernmost point of Spanish or a permanent stamp on the Southwest. American mélange is exciting. Mexican settlement, but fewer than 300 They brought a more or less continual Although the cuisine of the Southwest people remained there when the United influx of influence from Mexico of the was strongly influenced by the Native States acquired the area in 1848, primarily blending of its cultures: Native American Americans, the Spanish conquistadors because of raiding Apaches and the lack and Spanish (mestizaje), French, German and padres, as well as the later Mexican of resources. (breweries), Lebanese, Chinese and many settlers, played an important role in the more. Today you can find bollios, pan This was until 1910, when the Mexican origins of its bread recipes. In Sonora, the dulce, conchas and molletes across the Revolution sent thousands of people into Mexican state directly south of Arizona, Southwest. southern Arizona. They brought the food ✹ more wheat than corn is grown, and the

{ 26 } the bread bakers guild of america hot topic Some Thoughts on Natural Selection and Genetic Modification By jeffrey hamelman Guild Member and Director, King Arthur Flour Company Bakery

Since the beginnings of life on earth, a given area were those that thrived best in spite of the specter of unintended species have evolved based on in that area. Seeds from these treasured consequences that could devastate vast their overall suitability for particular varieties represented true food security. acreages. environments, and the collective Today natural selection is giving way to What occurred naturally over the course species of a given area, both flora and the aberration of genetic manipulation, of countless millennia is being supplanted, fauna, developed ways that favored not and for the first time in history, single in the name of corporate profit, by gene just survival of the fittest, but mutual corporations produce genetically manipulation in the lab. Do we really interdependence among species as well modified seeds, patent the seeds (the believe that the feeble mind of man can (for instance, trees at the edge of a forest U.S. Supreme Court deemed that life replace the long-term correctness of growing stouter to buffer the taller inner forms could in fact be patented), legally nature? In the U.S. we are not even legally trees from the wind). This haphazard forbid farmers to save seed, and force entitled to know if the foods we eat are perfection of nature characterized farmers to rely on chemicals that are grown from genetically modified plants. evolution until a few short millennia ago, produced by the seed company. Genes Why is this? when humans began the practice of that have never and could never find natural selection. Seeds were intentionally Jeffrey Hamelman is the author of their way into plants are now being and meticulously saved, based on desired Bread: A Baker’s Book of Techniques and intentionally inserted across species lines. characteristics: for example, seeds of Recipes and is the 2005 recipient of Further, as long as the winds blow, pollen early-ripening beans, winter squashes with The Guild’s prestigious Golden Baguette drift will occur, contaminating the plants great storage capability, or particularly Award (now the Raymond Calvel Award), on neighboring farms and negating the prolific cereal grains might be saved. The which recognizes individuals who possibility of nearby farmers practicing collective wisdom of the world’s farmers have contributed significantly to the organic methods. Once these seeds enter ensured that the vegetables and grains of advancement of artisan baking. the environment, they cannot be recalled,

Minneapolis Guildhall Gathering april 9, 2011 Hosted by Patisserie 46 :: Minneapolis, MN :: Marc Levy, Liaison Minneapolis Guild members met on April 9 for a Guildhall Gathering at Patisserie 46, one of our new member bakeries. One of the attendees, Nathan Hildebrandt of King

: M arc L evy P hoto Arthur Flour, said, “Being brand new to the Bread Bakers Guild, I wasn’t sure what to expect at my first Guildhall Gathering. The host for the evening was John Kraus and his crew at Patisserie 46 in Minneapolis. As you would expect from John, the food was fabulous, and we had a chance to sample a number of his fine pastries and breads. “The thing that I truly enjoyed was the chance to hobnob with the other Guild members and bakers from the Twin Cities area. The food scene in the Minneapolis/St. Paul area is awesome. I am looking forward to the next time that I have an opportunity to attend another Guildhall Gathering.” ✹

Guild members at Patisserie 46. Clockwise from upper left: Nathan Hildebrandt of King Arthur Flour, Shawn Swain, Solveig Tofte, Guild Chair and owner of Sun Street Breads; Jason Towley, Stephanie Towley, Sheila Wagner, and Martin Ouimet of Sun Street Breads.

bread lines – summer 2011 { 27 } FIRST CLASS PRESORT US POSTAGE PAID

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