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Caversham (August 2018) • © VCH Oxfordshire • Intro VCH Oxfordshire • Texts in Progress • Caversham (August 2018) • © VCH Oxfordshire • Intro. • p. 1 VCH Oxfordshire Texts in Progress Caversham Introduction: Landscape, Settlement, and Buildings Until its dissolution in the late 19th and early 20th-century Caversham – on the north bank of the Thames facing Reading – was the largest parish in Binfield hundred.1 Caversham manor was held by a succession of important lords who maintained a house in the south-east, at first near the river and later in parkland east of Emmer Green, where buildings by the 18th century were on a lavish scale. The population as a whole was long concentrated in the parish’s flatter southern part, particularly in the ‘village’ of Caversham by Caversham bridge – a major river crossing established in the Middle Ages – and also at Lower Caversham to the east. The hillier centre and north contained half a dozen scattered hamlets including Emmer Green, Kidmore End, and Cane End. The parish’s size and dispersed settlement pattern was reflected in its division into several tithings including East Thorpe, West Thorpe, and ‘above down’ (or ‘above the town’). From the mid 19th century the contrasting characteristics of the parish’s ‘upper’ and ‘lower’ parts were accentuated by the latter’s rapid development as a suburb of Reading borough. In the 1890s the north was separated to create the new civil parish of Kidmore End, and in 1911 the remaining southern area was broken up, the larger part of it absorbed into Reading. Parish Boundaries The ancient parish extended more than 5 miles (8.5 km) south-east to north-west from the Thames into the Chiltern Hills. In 1878 Caversham measured 4,879 a.,2 making it the largest Oxfordshire parish south of Thame (and the county’s thirteenth largest overall).3 From the Middle Ages the parish’s southern boundary followed that of the shire along the mid-stream of the Thames, taking in several islands.4 The western boundary mainly followed field and woodland boundaries and stretches of it are marked by hedged banks, including that along Boundary Lane in the south.5 The northern boundary ran across fields and along the embanked edge of Withy Copse before turning south near the Iron-Age hillfort in Castle 1 This account was written in 2017–18. 2 OS Area Bk (1878); cf. TNA, tithe award (estimating 4,771 a. in 1845). 3 VCH Oxon. II, 213–24. 4 Cal. Close 1227–31, 499; OHC, QSB/25; tithe map. 5 For boundaries: tithe map; SOAG Bulletin 52 (1997), 23, 24–9. 1 VCH Oxfordshire • Texts in Progress • Caversham (August 2018) • © VCH Oxfordshire • Intro. • p. 2 Grove (in Checkendon). The eastern boundary followed a woodland bank to Gallowstree Common before running down Reade’s Lane to a point south-west of Bishoplands Farm. Thereafter it followed field and woodland boundaries before cutting across fields and Thames-side grassland to the river. The boundaries of individual tithings cannot be reconstructed in detail, and part of their lands lay intermixed in the southern open fields.6 Broadly Caversham tithing was centred on Caversham bridge, with the two ‘thorpes’ to the east and west, and ‘above town’ to the north including the area around Chalkhouse green.7 The parish of Caversham c.1850. Source: K. Tiller and G. Darkes (eds.), An Historical Atlas of Oxfordshire (ORS 67, 2010) Modern boundary changes reduced the parish’s size and ultimately led to its abolition. In 1894 2,475 a. north of Emmer Green was removed to create Kidmore End parish (called Kidmore until 1902), leaving the rump of Caversham parish with 2,404 acres.8 In 1911 the parish was abolished by the incorporation of a densely built up area comprising 1,467 a. into Reading borough, and of the then still rural south-east (937 a.) into Eye and Dunsden.9 In 1977 the modern housing estate called Caversham Park Village (in Eye and Dunsden) was transferred to Reading.10 Kidmore End civil parish gained 13 a. from Eye and 6 TNA, LR 2/189, ff. 52–63v. For boundary marks: ibid. f. 52v. (the ‘[mere]stones of East Thorpe’). 7 Below, settlement. 8 Census, 1891–1901; Youngs, Admin. Units, I, 394, 400; OS Map 1:10560, Oxon. LVI (1900 edn). 9 Census, 1921; Youngs, Admin. Units, I, 394; below, Eye and Dunsden. 10 Local Government Boundary Commission Report 145 (1976); Berks. and Oxon. Areas Order (1977); below, settlement. 2 VCH Oxfordshire • Texts in Progress • Caversham (August 2018) • © VCH Oxfordshire • Intro. • p. 3 Dunsden in 1912, and a further 178 a. in 1952, in which year it lost 114 a. to the newly created parish of Sonning Common.11 In 1977 small built-up areas in the south of Kidmore End were absorbed into Reading,12 and in 1991 the remainder comprised 1,001 hectares (c.2,472 a.).13 Landscape The parish tilts gradually and unevenly uphill from south to north, its lowest point being by the Thames (c.37 m.) and its highest at Kempwood in the far north-west (125 m.). Riverside alluvium and silt long supported extensive meadow and pasture mainly destroyed by modern gravel extraction.14 In the 1980s and 1990s large former gravel pits extending as far as Sonning Eye (in Eye and Dunsden) were turned into a major water-sports facility eventually incorporating two marinas with a total of 500 berths, an Olympic-sized rowing lake, sailing and water-skiing clubs, and a 70-a. nature reserve.15 Early streams near the river are commemorated in names such as Gosbrook and Westbrook, the latter mentioned in 1392.16 Gravels and chalk just to the north supported the parish’s main open fields, inclosed in the early 19th century and now almost entirely developed for housing.17 At Caversham Park a medieval deer park was inclosed from formerly more extensive waste probably in the early 13th century.18 The central and northern parts of the parish comprise plateaux capped with sands and gravels bisected by narrow dry chalk valleys, including Hemdean Bottom.19 There small fields, closes and scattered commons occupied flatter areas, with woodland by the 18th century restricted mainly to the far north and small pockets on steeper slopes.20 Away from the river water was supplied by ponds and wells,21 and later by reservoirs and a water tower.22 11 Census, 1921 and 1961. 12 Local Government Boundary Commission Report 145 (1976); Emmer Green Past and Present: From Estate Hamlet to Village to Suburb (Emmer Green Residents’ Assocn, 2001), 44. 13 For minor changes the following year: South Oxon. Parishes Order (1992). 14 Geol. Surv. Map 1:50000 (solid and drift), sheet 268 (2000 edn); OS Map 1:25000, sheet 171 (1999 edn). 15 Caversham Bridge, March 1991; http://www.davidsherriff.co.uk/portfolio_page/the-redgrave- pinsent-rowing-lake. 16 M.T. Pearman, ‘Historical Notices of Caversham’, OAS Trans 32 (1894), 4. 17 Berks RO, inclosure award and map (1834); 18 Below, econ. hist. 19 Geol. Surv. Map 1:50000 (solid and drift), sheet 268 (2000 edn). 20 Jefferys, Oxon. Map (1767). 21 TNA, tithe award and map; J. Dils (ed.), Rural Life in South Oxfordshire 1841–1891: Cane End, Kidmore End, Gallowstree Common (1994), 1, 4; Emmer Green Past and Present, 12–13; NHL, nos 1052181, 1059507; below, settlement. 22 OHC, Acc. 4906/2; Bodl. MS. Top. Oxon. d. 535 (typescript notes on the history of Emmer Green by D.M. Robinson, 1966). 3 VCH Oxfordshire • Texts in Progress • Caversham (August 2018) • © VCH Oxfordshire • Intro. • p. 4 The parish’s mixed landscape, bisected by Hemdean Bottom Communications Road and River Several roads radiate out across the parish from Caversham bridge.23 Of these the most important pass north-east towards Henley and north-west towards Oxford. The Henley road (now the A 4155), linking Reading to Marlow and Hatfield, was turnpiked in 1768 and included a branch crossing the Thames at Sonning.24 The Oxford road (now the A 4074) passes through Caversham Heights and Cane End, and on through Exlade Street to join the road to Wallingford. Both roads were of medieval origin,25 the Henley road broadly following the line of the Tuddingway.26 So too probably was a third road passing west of Caversham Park that branched off in several directions at Emmer Green, including north-west to 23 OS Map 1:25000, sheet 171 (1999 edn). 24 VCH Oxon. XVI, 4–6; Oxon. Atlas, 50–1. 25 Above, vol. intro. 26 Below, Mapledurham, comms. 4 VCH Oxfordshire • Texts in Progress • Caversham (August 2018) • © VCH Oxfordshire • Intro. • p. 5 Kidmore End and Rotherfield Peppard, and north-east to Binfield Heath, Harpsden and Henley.27 Long-established minor routes (in several cases altered at inclosure in the 19th century) linked hamlets and farmsteads in the centre and north of the parish and connected them with the larger settlements in the south.28 Between Caversham and Emmer Green the construction of Buckingham Drive in 1949 reduced the parallel stretch of Peppard Road to a back lane.29 Caversham bridge (so-called from the 13th century) was probably the structure described in the 1170s or 1180s as the ‘new bridge of Reading’,30 if so perhaps implying the existence of an earlier bridge or causeway.31 The bridge, which was partly in the fee of the abbot of Reading and partly in that of the lord of Caversham,32 was badly damaged by floods in 124033 but in 1314 was described as a ‘great bridge’.34 Disrepair was alleged during the 15th century,35 and again in 1552,36 although c.1540 Leland simply reported a ‘great main bridge’ of timber with some stone foundations.37 During the Middle Ages repairs may have been funded partly by offerings at the bridge chapel established by the early 13th century,38 and responsibility for upkeep was shared between the lords of Reading and Caversham and later for a small section where the chapel was located Notley abbey.39 In 1638 the king granted Reading corporation a toll on carts and laden horses to assist in the repair of its part of the bridge.40 In 1642–4 (during the Civil War) the bridge was broken and a wooden drawbridge erected at the Reading end.41 The approach road on the Reading side was improved by local subscription in 1724, and the Reading part of the bridge was repaired by the 27 Jefferys, Oxon.
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