FREE October 2008 Edition 48 krakow POST ISSN 1898-4762 www.krakowpost.com

Krakow Sorry CNN, Engineer from Krakow firm kidnapped in Pakistan Krakow’s Broke >> page 4 Krakow can’t afford CNN ad Poland space More reports surface on CIA John Walczak prisons in Poland >> page 6 The city’s miserly promotional budget for this year, coupled with Feature reckless spending, have left Kra- kow broke. Krakow is the only large A guide to absentee voting Polish city that will not be advertis- in upcoming elections ing itself on CNN International to >> page 10, 11 140 million viewers.

In an article in the Polish daily Property Gazeta Wyborcza, it has been re- vealed that Krakow’s authorities Where and how resigned from a gigantic advertis- to buy ing campaign for a bargain price on >> page 13 CNN International. Krakow was to show itself in several hundred ad- Sport vertising spots on the international news channel for 900 thousand Wis a cling on for Second złotys. According to CNN employ- ł ees an identical campaign on a TV Coming station with fewer viewers would >> page 14 normally cost more. Culture The weak dollar and the positive Above: The future Krakow Congress Centre, designed by Krzysztof Ingarden, is the largest edifice to approach of CNN bosses to Poland be commissioned for the city since the 1930s. See page 15 for more buildings on Krakow’s horizon. Discover Polish architecture led to budget prices being offered >> page 15 for the campaign, which has the potential of reaching 140 million viewers worldwide. CNN offered several hundred prime-time ad slots to the authorities of Krakow, life , Gda sk and Warsaw - only City Łódź ń GOODBYE, KOCHANIE! Krakow declined. > by night What’s the reason behind the sud- den offer to Polish cities? The com- without work it got lonely Notes From the mercials are to form a background for me. When I had prob- Underground to a weeklong series of CNN Inter- UK “Recession” Hits Poles lems, there was no one national programmes focusing on who wanted to help.” /CL 2 Poland under the banner “Eye on Poland: Country at the Crossroads.” Providence Row, a home- > reviews The coverage starts on October Robin Das less charity in East Lon- 6th and runs through to October Drop In, Fork Out, don, says that since last 12th. The station says it wants to Get Served focus on the colour and contrast a r i u s z in food, energy and other anything more perma- year the proportion of of one of Europe’s fastest devel- Bart left staples, people are tight- nent, but during the past people it sees from East- /CL 3, 5 oping nations - from business and his home- ening their belts. Poles months even that source ern Europe has grown to politics to pop culture. There will town near in minimum wage jobs has dried up. He noted, “It a third. This year they be- > spotlight be numerous live broadcasts, and M Wrocław in 2004, lured are among those feeling definitely got a lot harder gan working with Barka, a programmes will run daily, with to the UK by the oppor- the pinch of a consumer and things got a lot more charity which helps Poles Unsound Festival each one devoted to a different tunities it offered and spending clampdown, expensive. It was harder who have fallen previewed sphere of life: business, the Euro >> 2 2012 championships, as well as the buying power of one while others employed in to get casual work and into hardship /CL 6 relations with Russia and the USA. pound to seven złotys. construction are bearing Many interviews are also promised This year he returned to the brunt of a collapse > posted with, amongst others, Nobel Peace Poland, disillusioned by in new building projects. Prize winner and former President the UK’s economic rot, a With reports of Poles suf- Concerts, exhibitions & Lech Wałęsa and current President succession of shorter and fering increased hardship, parties Lech Kaczyński. Talks with promi- nent politicians, political analysts shorter work “contracts” it seems the honeymoon /CL 7, 8, 9, 10 and Central European commenta- and the increased cost of is over for Polish emigra- tors are also on the schedule. Short living. tion to Britain. clips showcasing Polish cities will also be broadcast. Krakow, at least, The UK’s economic boom Mariusz used to wait in will be amongst these. A CNN In- of the last decade has west London to be picked ternational film crew spent sev- come to a shuddering halt. up by building gangs for eral days here in August, though unfortunately it >> 2 With a crash in house pric- casual labouring work was raining heavily at the es and inflationary costs when he didn’t have Polish builders are returning home / photo Adelina Krupski 2 Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow

<< Sorry CNN Letters << Continued from 1 continued from 1 To the editor and can’t find a job a way to return builders. There’s no doubt about time. “We don’t know how we’ll come Re: “Ten of the Best for Poland” p. 14, Sept. ed.: home to their families in Poland. it. Many aren’t prepared to wait for out on the screen,” Krakow officials have said. I feel I have to take exception to some of the state- Dagmara Walczyk from Barka stated, the construction boom that’s go- ments made in the above article by Daniel van “Many may be unwilling to go back ing to happen for the Olympics in Hoven... The situation should be cause for con- because they don’t have a home to 2012.” Poles worked on Heathrow cern for Krakow’s authorities; this cov- Though I’m not a gambling man, if someone had return to or feel ashamed of coming Terminal 5 and there’s a worry that offered me a bet before the Olympics that Moldova erage should be backed up by a mass would win more medals than China or that Mauritius back to their little communities. If the big building projects of the Ol- advertising campaign, but for this, would win more than the US, I think I would have they can’t or don’t want to return ympic Games will suffer because of Krakow has run out of money. Officials taken it. However, under a much more equitable sys- from the City Promotion and Market- tem for rating the accomplishments of the countries, they can stay in one of our centres a shortage of skilled Eastern Euro- I would have lost both bets. I thought of the new or other programmes depending on pean workers. The Polish plumber ing Bureau can only despair, as their two-step system myself, but so did someone else and, budget this year was only four million what their problems are.” Dagmara and his blue-collar colleagues shook even better, they did the work to summarize the nec- złoty, compared to 17 million allocated essary data. Then one of my trusty Kraków acquain- adds that Poles sometimes fall into up British builders with their work by ód and nine million by Szczecin tances furnished me with that (unsolicited). Though Ł ż the poverty trap because they are ethic, reliability and low costs. In (which is half the size of Krakow). The system is very simple. It consists of assigning a I’m not a exploited by gangs, and there is a anticipation of a dearth of bright, point value to each kind of medal and then relating lack of support from the Polish gov- young Poles able to plaster a wall The director of the bureau said: “This the total points to the population of the country. In “ my case, it was provoked by having to put up with gambling ernment for migrants. smoothly, industries, including the expenditure was not foreseen in this the continual tedious unresolvable argument as to body in charge of the Olympics, are year’s budget, and any money we had whether more total medals or more gold medals man, if left went to finance the “rescue” adver- should determine the overall winner. A gold medal For those who decide to make the pouring money into training British tising campaign on the National Geo- is worth three points, a silver two and a bronze one. some- return journey, opportunities for workers in basic construction skills, Step two is to simply divide the population of the graphic and BBC channels earlier this country by the number of points to figure out how one had work now seem brighter as the such as how to use a digger. year, after figures showed a 20 percent many people it took to get a point. Voila! offered Polish economy grows, buoyed up drop in visitors to Krakow.” All this is Under this new, improved system, Moldova finishes by large-scale building projects such But even for Poles who have good after city councillors spent three mil- in position #61, ahead of China in position #66 (!!), me a bet as the construction of stadiums for jobs these are unsettling times. lion złoty on a mock battle and a se- while Mauritius finishes in #41, ahead of the US in ries of other events to commemorate #45! As can be surmised from these results alone, the 2012 Euro championships. In a Rafał Skarbek’s job as the head of the victory of the army of Polish King the established methods of listing the countries before global economy and a Europe with- the Polish Somerset Community undergo considerable shaking up! It actually took Jan III Sobieski in the Battle of Vienna out borders, it seems there will al- Association, helping new arrivals China 5,964,325.58 people to manage one point; this the Olym- in 1683. is more than the entire population of Moldova which, ways be winners and losers among find employment and accommo- nevertheless, managed to secure a point. It took the pics that those brave enough to try to make a dation, means he is well placed to US, with all its vast wealth, 1,381,021.12 people to “For that amount of money we could gain each point, whereas Mauritius gained a point Moldova better future for themselves abroad. see what the future could hold for have had three advertising campaigns. using only 1,274,189 people. Other falls from grace Speaking in the House of Commons, Poles in Britain. He stated, “Now I This kind of opportunity is unlikely to include Russia dropping down to #36 (from #3 in present itself again, [and] it’s difficult total medals), Great Britain dropping to #22 (from would MP Stephen Pound, whose constitu- am split [about] what I should do to expect the TV station will want to #4), Germany to #32 (from #6), France to #31 (from ency in west London is home to in the future. Should I stay, should #7), South Korea to #26 (from #8), Italy to #39 (from win more feature Poland again in the next few one of the largest Polish communi- I go back to Poland, why [do] I think #9, Ukraine to #33 (from #10) and Japan to #57 (from years,” says the owner of a tourist #11)(!) Of the, shall we say, “powerhouse” sports medals ties in the UK, likened Polish emi- like that? In Poland is all my family, guide for the city. nations, only Australia manages to hold on to its position, slipping only one spot. than Chi- grants to the British builders who past, and maybe future. [However,] I were thrown on the dole in Margaret really do like England and I do love Gazeta Wyborcza also brings to light The new top five are: 1. the Bahamas (needing only na or that the fact that the decision against the 102,484 people per point), 2. Jamaica (107,859), 3. Thatcher’s recession hit eighties. my job.” For Rafał, who is proud of Iceland (152,184), 4. Norway (221,165) and 5. Slove- Many of those Brits moved abroad his country and traditions, it’s poli- campaign was influenced by the Epoka nia (223,079). Rounding out the top ten are: 6. Aus- Mauritius advertising agency, which would have to work in Germany. Pound termed tics and the way the country is run tralia (231,460), 7. Bahrain (239,435), 8. New Zealand produced the Krakow commercial. (260,841), 9. Estonia (261,521) and 10. Trinidad/To- would these workers the “Auf Wiedersehen that deters him from returning: “I Their representatives persuaded City bago (261,842). Unfortunately, my country (Canada) generation,”* the subtext being they won’t feel optimistic about Poland drops from #15 under the “total medal” system to win more officials not to promote Krakow on #35 (1,006,445) and Poland drops from #21 to #46 will go wherever and whenever they until people in government change CNN International in October because

(1,750,032). India finishes in #87 position, needing than have to to find work. No firm figures the way of communicating between viewers at that time will only be inter- 229,599,180 people (!) to get a single point in the new one - but this is not last position because there were the US, exist for the numbers of Polish peo- themselves and society.” ested in coverage of the US presidential 117 participating countries that didn’t achieve any ple leaving the UK, but Krzysztof elections. points at all. These would of course be ranked strictly I think in descending order of lowest population. As can be Treczyński, at the Polish Embassy If Poles, like Rafał, choose to stay “It’s crazy to miss out on such an op- seen, it’s a very fine line between Olympic glory and in London, said: “There is an evi- in Britain there may be several rea- total oblivion, with one solitary silver medal keeping I would portunity because of the presidential #3 Iceland from that fate, and only one silver and a “ dent downward trend ...and if you sons, including a feeling of integra- elections. The increased viewing of bronze keeping the Bahamas on top. have tak- look at the numbers of air passen- tion and that whatever the current television news is fantastic for the gers flying both ways, the trend is uncertainties, the UK still holds three Polish towns that are advertis- However, these mighty-mite countries then have to en it. be the perennial favourites to win, since one medal decreasing.” brighter possibilities for them. For ing themselves. It’s a shame because can vault them to the top, which is somewhat absurd. others, like the clients at Barka, it’s too late for Krakow now. Besides, For example, a very small country sending only one I have the impression that those who athlete could win everything. This leads me to the Ironically, there are many who fore- their dream of making it in Britain are worried about Krakow’s campaign conclusion that any ranking system is meaning- cast that the Polish exodus could af- seems less than rosy. less. The only real value is in the individual or team being crushed by the presidential elec- accomplishment. This makes for a very healthy anti- fect the UK’s economy even more in tions are not differentiating one simple nationalism. the long term. Jan Mokrzycki, presi- *”Auf Wiedersehen, Pet” was a pop- thing. CNN International has news from Jim Waite, Kraków dent of the Federation of Poles in ular British comedy show about the USA, [but] it doesn’t dominate, un- Britain, said: “The first thing that’s Britons working in Germany in the like American CNN where it is the main been hit [by the UK recession] is the eighties. feature,” said former Polish TV U.S. letters to the editor correspondent Katarzyna Sławińska.

he Krakow Post welcomes letters to the editor. Letters for Tpublication should be signed and bear the signatory’s e- about mail address and city of residence. The Krakow Post reserves krakow POST the right to edit letters. Krakow Post is a monthly Anna Spysz, Editor-in-Chief For advertising inquiries, Please send letters to the editor at [email protected], publication published by Lifeboat Ltd. [email protected] please contact: or by post at ISSN: 1898-4762 Culture Editor Michal McSperrin-Kossak, www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post [email protected] Group Sales Manager Mark Bradshaw, Publisher Duncan Rhodes, Nightlife Editor [email protected] Ul. Szczepańska 7/4a [email protected] [email protected] +48 (12) 421 4865 31-011 Krakow Stuart Wilson, Design Printers, www.drukarniapolska.pl www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 3 News Krakow

A Kingdom on Karmelicka

Construction of a €55 million investment on Karmelicka Street finally underway

Wojtek Galon

Following a decade of bureaucratic The commencement of work at the same year, neighbouring prop- wedged incongruously amongst the wrangling, work on a €55 million site has been a complicated endea- erty owners stepped in and filed a historic Carmelite Church and solid multifunctional complex, which in- vour and the project has stalled case to the Provincial Administra- 20th century buildings on Karmel- cludes a hotel, cinema and multi- several times over the last decade. tive court in Krakow, opposing the icka Street, the development is a level car park has finally begun in Court proceedings, protests from scheme and successfully bidding to further example of the modernisa- central Krakow. neighbours, delays in the issuing of annul the building permit. tion of the district just north of the a building permit and land owner- Planty. Running along the back of the Pro- ship changes have all combined to The legal drama grew as Portico vincial Public Library, in between hold up the development, initially lodged an appeal to the Supreme It will also complement plans to Karmelicka and Dolnych Młynow set for completion in December Administrative Court in Warsaw, develop a multimedia information streets, the project will occupy a 2002. which then overturned the decision centre opposite the Provincial Pub- barren piece of land that was used of the Provincial Administrative lic Library on nearby Rajska Street, as a military training yard in the In 1998, the Krakow City Council Court, and once again paved the which will include a theatre, con- 1990s. Years of corrosion on the sold the land to a private buyer for way for construction to begin. cert hall and seminar room for up gabled walls of the adjacent resi- 48 million złoty, one of the largest to 400 people. dential buildings will finally be transactions in Poland at the time Thus, at the start of 2007, with full remedied. according to local daily Dziennik building rights secured, it seemed In recent years, a wave of modern Polski. the bureaucratic rollercoaster had shops, cafes and bars have also Included in the concept is a four- come to an end. Yet, seemingly tired sprouted in and around the Karmel- star Hilton Garden Inn with 190 A year later, the land was sold off to of constant postponements, Portico icka area, making it one of the most rooms, an eight-screen cinema com- Warsaw-based company Portico Gal- decided to sell the full rights for crowded in the city and breathing plex and a car park for 500 vehicles, icja, which expanded the initial idea the land to Irish property developer new life into what is generally seen along with bars, restaurants and a of building a multi-level car park at Howard Holdings. as a walking path on route towards variety of leisure facilities. the site, and hired Krakow based ar- the Market Square. chitect Ronald Loegler to design a Now, the Cork-based company has A lane linking Karmelicka and multifaceted concept. used its Polish trademark Howard With archeological works at the Dolnych Młynow streets will also Property Polska to finally get con- multifunctional complex site now create a walking path through the However, due to complications in struction underway and begin de- finished, and a completion date centre of the complex, while the receiving a building permit for the veloping what will undoubtedly be set for mid-2010, it seems that lo- “sleeping” Kochanowskiego Street, site, Portico was forced to delay one of the most modern complexes cal residents will have to get used currently closed off by a wall along construction until mid-2003. in Krakow. to the emerging modern flavour of the land plot, will begin functioning this part of town. normally. With a building permit issued and While traditionalists have expressed work poised to start in June of the concern that the new site will be Balice Expansion Agreement Reached

Thymn Chase and the local district council promise considering that As of September 29th, Bal- of Zabierzow to purchase a the negotiations have been ice International had already 33-hectare piece of land on dominated by LOT Polish Air- handled 2 million passengers nce again there is which to build the long en- lines, which owns the largest in 2008 and a huge car park talk of expanding visioned new passenger ter- chunk of MPL with 85 percent is currently being construct- Krakow’s bustling minal. According to the hard of shares. The Małopolskie ed. The Krakow airport cur- O Balice Internation- fought and long negotiated Regional Government holds rently offers 52 connections al Airport, affectionately re- agreement, each of the three close to 14 percent, the city of to 41 cities and is a port for ferred to by bureaucrats as authorities will acquire an Krakow has about one percent, 23 airlines - 12 traditional air- MPL. equal amount of money from and the local district council lines and 11 low-cost carriers. the National Treasury for the of Zabierzow holds less than The new terminal that is to In early September an agree- specific purpose of purchas- one percent of shares. Con- be built on the acquired land ment was reached by the ing the land. sidering the share dispersion would service an additional Małopolskie Regional Gov- one can only assume that LOT nine million passengers per ernment, the City of Krakow This is an interesting com- has really good negotiators. year.

/ photo Anna Spysz

>> 4 4 Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Krakow

Krakow Company Pulls out of Pakistan Marketing Food, London Style Ewa Spohn Company leaves Pakistan after one of its workers is kidnapped

On Thursday September 25th two Anna Spysz markets came together at the Jewish Community Centre when n Sunday, September our employees could continue to George Nicholson, Trustee of 28th, Piotr Stańczak work in such conditions.” London’s Borough Market, spoke was conducting a rou- about how a failing food market Otine visit to oil plants The kidnapping was condemned had been turned into one of Lon- in the Pakistani village of Pind by Pakistan’s Foreign Minis- don’s most popular tourist attrac- Sultani, near Attock city, about 82 ter Makhdoom Shah Mahmood tions and the UK’s centre for ar- km west of Islamabad. Together Qureshi. Speaking from New tisan food. The meeting was the with his two Pakistani drivers and York, where he was attending the first in a series organised by the bodyguard, he was ambushed by UN General Assembly session, Przyjazny Kazimierz Association gunmen, who killed the three he also expressed condolences to stimulate debate about how Pakistanis and kidnapped Mr. for the families of the three Paki- Plac Nowy, the last functioning Stańczak. All that was left at the stanis who were killed in the in- food market in Kazimierz, could scene was the engineer’s com- cident. be developed. pany car and the bodies of his Pakistani companions. Foreign Minister Qureshi also Mr. Nicholson took the packed au- spoke to Polish Foreign Minister dience through the series of small The engineer was working for Radosław Sikorski by telephone, steps that make up the Borough Krakow-based oil company and assured him that the Paki- Market story. It started in 1995 Geofizyka Krakow Limited, a stani government will be working with a cheese wholesaler rent- unit of the Polish gas monopoly to ensure the safe return of Mr. ing one of the cold, damp build- Polskie Górnictwo Naftowe i Stańczak to his family. Danuta ings owned by the market, other Gazownictwo S.A. (PGNiG). On Paszek, the engineer’s sister, has wholesalers following, passersby September 30th, the company made a plea to the kidnappers for asking if they could buy from announced that it will be pulling the safe return of her brother. but Taliban militants kidnapped not be the case with Mr. Stańczak, the wholesalers, quarterly ware- out of Pakistan and bringing its two Chinese telecommunication and it is meeting with local police house sales, a food festival that 18 workers home. The company While kidnappings for ransom engineers working for Zhongxing officials in the hopes of finding gave them the courage to start states that the kidnapping con- are common in Pakistan, usu- Telecommunication Equipment a solution. Polish authorities are a monthly market and then the stitutes a breach of its contract ally the victims are well-to-do in August. The Chinese workers also cooperating with Pakistani weekly market. This now draws with local authorities. Pakistanis, not foreigners. More have not yet been released, as police, while Geofizyka Krakow 30,000 people every weekend and often, foreigners are taken by the militants are demanding the has set up a crisis team. supports numerous other busi- Leopold Sułkowski, the chairman militants such as the Taliban, release of some of their own col- nesses both in London and the of Geofizyka Krakow, told TVN who have taken Westerners in leagues in exchange. At the moment, no individual or countryside. Info, “Our contract was halted the past. This is the first case of group has claimed responsibility because I don’t think that any of a Polish worker being kidnapped, The Polish firm hopes this will for the kidnappings. For the other panel members, Konrad Myslik, a journalist, and Dr. Beiersdorf, an art historian and former City Conservation chief, the critical differences between Kazimierz and Borough #Xdb were that Kazimierz is not experi- #RACOW ,IFE 7AR encing a crisis of vitality, and also #Xdb SAW ,IFE the difference in scale. A valu- able lesson was that a well-run #Xdb and focused market can become 0OZNAN ,IFE WANTED: an important asset. "ERLIN ,IFE Mr. Nicholson also met with man- #Xdb PROFESSIONAL SALES PEOPLE agers of the Plac Nowy and Stary #Xdb Kleparz markets and local coun- 'DANSK ,IFE cillors. The Association hopes to Are you an energetic, enthusiastic and self motivated sales dynamo? find a way to involve him as a judge in the recently announced How do you feel about working for Eastern Europe’s leading internet guides? architectural competition for the redevelopment of Plac Nowy. The Cracow Life family, are looking for professional sales people to join their rapidly growing teams in The next meeting in the series is Warsaw, Gdansk, Poznan and Berlin. scheduled for mid-December, fea- You’ll be responsible for building relationships with new advertising clients as well as maintaining turing Carolyn Steel, architect, current ones. Cambridge University lecturer and author of Hungry City, a book If you’re fluent in Polish (or German if you’re in Berlin!), live in one of these cities and love them as much about how cities’ need for food as we do, then send your CV with a covering letter about why you love your city to shapes urban design. Michał McSperrin-Kossak at: [email protected] www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 5 News Poland

Debate Chemical Castration - Humane or Insane?

In early September, Krzysztof B. was arrested in the village of Grodzisk, near Siemiatycze, after allegedly imprisoning and raping his now 21-year-old daughter, Alicja B., since 2002. The daughter was forced to give up her two sons, aged three and 22 months, for adoption, and it is believed that Krzysztof B. is also their father. Though there are some significant differences between the case of Krzysztof B. and Austrian Josef Fritzl, the former has nonetheless already been dubbed the “Polish Fritzl” by the media. In response, PM Donald Tusk has pushed for legislation to require mandatory chemical castration for incorrigible paedophiles – below, James Sinclair and Robert Szmigielski debate the merits and downsides, respectively, of mandatory castration.

Amidst the media frenzy and public outrage surrounding the case of the The tragic and sickening events that occurred in Siemiatycze have quick- “Polish Fritzl,” Donald Tusk has seized the opportunity to gain public ened the pulses and angered us all, and understandably feelings are support for his plans to make chemical castration a mandatory part of running high. Not the time for rash decisions, one would think. But, lo and F:repeat-offender paedophiles’ sentences. A:behold, up pops a sabre-rattling Donald Tusk, who, instead of calming the furore, foolhardily declares that Poland will be the only country in the civilised world to Tusk’s use of the case to support his agenda muddies the waters: Krzysztof B. is force chemical castration on convicted paedophiles and sexual offenders. neither a paedophile by Polish law (the legal age of consent is 15), nor by medical definition, which states that paedophilia is the recurrence of sexual urges towards More is expected from a head of government; at times like these, rational debate should children of prepubescent age (in most cases this means 13 or under). Krzysztof B.’s be encouraged, not knee-jerk reactions that remind us of the incompetent (but endlessly high profile crimes may lend sensationalist favour to Tusk’s cause but I shall not entertaining) days of the Kaczyńskis. Unfortunately, Tusk’s decision smacks of an at- refer to them. tempt to resurrect waning support.

In tackling the problem of paedophiles, we should not be led into a morally ground- Chemical castration is nothing new; many countries administer the treatment, but ed witch hunt in which all paedophiles are labelled as “evil” and “subhuman,” but only with the consent of the individual – to force it is a breach of one’s human right to rather we must sensibly admit that these seriously ill people pose a very real threat procreate. Many will argue that upon violating the human rights of their victim, a sexual to the lives of Poland’s children. By extension we must also weigh up the damage of offender relinquishes their own, but as a modern society, long gone is the philosophy of paedophilic behaviour when determining what measures are reasonable in counter- “an eye for an eye” - which Gandhi famously declared, blinds us all. ing it. Let’s look at the facts: paedophilia is widely recognised by doctors and psychologists as Father and mothers need no persuading, and those with any imagination need little a mental illness (like schizophrenia) and as such, the sufferer - who more often than not more, to understand the absolutely ruinous effect a paedophile’s crimes can have was themselves abused as a child - must be treated, not locked away and punished. They on a young life. Rape is rightly considered one of the worst forms of torture, not are not driven by sexual urges, but by mental imbalances, rendering the use of hormonal just for the extreme physical pain it causes but for the lifelong psychological dam- suppression by use of chemicals totally useless. As the American Civil Liberties Union age it inflicts. Victims typically feel extreme depression, humiliation, lack of self argues, “mandatory chemical castration... fails to treat the psychological roots of sexually worth, are unable to enjoy healthy sexual relationships (often ruining their chances deviant behaviour,” a claim backed by sexologists across the globe. of happy marriage, or long-term relationships), not to mention the possibility of un- wanted children or the passing on of life-affecting sexual diseases. Rape of a minor Also, according to sexology experts in Poland, only one in 10 of those convicted of sexu- therefore can be considered akin to the torturing of a child, and the most abomi- ally abusing children are paedophiles, while the rest are simply primitive individuals nable crime imaginable - whether you choose to blame the paedophile or not for his who are not ill, but depraved and demoralised, thus medical treatment is not required. unnatural urges. Living with the physical and psychological scars of sexual abuse is Therefore, if not sick, they must be treated as criminals, meaning: once tried, convicted, a terrible burden for anyone to bear, let alone for a child whose young life should and having served their sentence, they must be allowed to walk free. This is one of the be full of only joy and promise. fundamental principles of a civilised society, and there can be no exceptions – no matter how unpleasant the offence. Chemical castration, aside from its ineffectiveness, would be The solution? Well neither I, nor Donald Tusk, are suggesting we stamp down on an additional punishment for an offender who already paid the price for his crimes. every first time sex offender with obligatory chemical castration, but if a paedo- phile repeatedly offends and continues to destroy life after life, surely they sacrifice Furthermore, Tusk’s idea is formed on the presumption that the criminal will re-offend. some of their human rights? Ultimately we have to make a choice about who we This would give the state the means to punish somebody for a crime they have not yet want to protect, our children or incurably ill sexual deviants. Chemical castration committed, and would set a dangerous precedent. Suddenly the elaborately woven world (which many paedophiles have chosen of their own volition) provides a humane way of Minority Report, where people are arrested and punished for “thought-crime,” is not as to deal with a group of people whose predatory behaviour consigns young children outlandish as first thought. to a shattered half-life of misery and unfulfilment. It may not be politically correct to think about the victim for once, but when you balance countless children losing The state mustn’t be allowed to exploit the hysteria surrounding the disgusting actions their chance of happiness versus a few paedophiles losing their sex drives, only of an individual by passing a law that has the potential to mutate into something more someone with a very skewed sense of justice would argue against chemical castra- sinister. Just look at the U.S. and Great Britain, where civil liberties are slowly and dis- tion. creetly being picked apart under the guise of “national security.” Do you want to live in a society where you are told what you think, and accused and punished for something that you may or may not do? I certainly don’t.

October’s special offer lomi lomi massage price: 190 zł- 60 min At Dharmata we also offer: - Classical Balinese massage - Aromatherapy relaxing massage - Classical Thai massage - Shiatsu massage - Warm stone massage - Four-hand lomi lomi massage - Four-hand weight loss massage - Ayurveda Bring a friend on Sundays! The second person has 25% discount! Dharmata Massage Centre ul. Garbarska 5, Kraków telephone: 012/423 00 58 mobile: +48/669 689 886 email: [email protected] 6 Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Poland

Poland: The 51st State? From Russia With Realism

More reports surface on alleged CIA prisons in Poland Russian foreign minister’s visit to Poland strengthens the need for a debate over Warsaw’s policy towards Robert Szmigielski Russia

Wojciech Michnik ccusations that Polish land and airspace were used for the transportation and ergey Lavrov, Russia’s For- for Rzeczpospolita, compared the Adetention of terrorist sus- eign Minster, arrived in position of the Polish government pects have been reignited recently Warsaw on September 10th towards Georgia to the one it had by a series of articles published last Sto meet his counterpart taken towards Tibet: in the begin- month in Gazeta Wyborcza. Radosław Sikorski and Polish Prime ning everyone seemed to be out- Minister Donald Tusk. Despite the raged by the events, but then we got The first article, printed in early Sep- somewhat cold relations between used to the new situation. tember, reported that Prime Minister the two neighbours of late - stem- Donald Tusk received a personally ming mainly from Russian opposi- Regardless of the media hype sur- addressed letter from former Deputy tion to the Polish-American missile rounding Mr. Lavrov’s trip to Poland, Prime Minister Roman Giertych - the shield, the Russian-Georgian con- this visit seemed mostly significant contents are believed to include clas- flict and Poland’s role in supporting in terms of its symbolic meaning. sified information linked to the dis- Ukraine and Georgia - both sides Moscow’s goal was to show the rest puted existence of CIA (Central Intel- underlined strong economic and of the world, and especially the ligence Agency) prisons in Poland. cultural ties during the meeting. European Union, that Russia is not / cartoon Dominik Nawrocki As the official website of the Polish such a bad force in international The letter - promptly handed over to Ministry of Foreign Affairs informs relations as the Georgian conflict the public prosecutor’s office - trig- us, the purpose of this working visit might have indicated. According gered the re-opening of the investi- was to discuss bilateral relations, to Adam Eberhard, vice-director of gation into the accusations that have mania. Later, however, after newspa- Europe – was located in Poland. the situation surrounding the Geor- the Center for Eastern Studies in proved to be a thorn in the side of con- per and media outlets across Europe gian–Russian conflict and the pros- Warsaw, Lavrov’s visit was aimed secutive Polish administrations. carried out their own investigations, He also reiterated the accusation pects for EU–Russian relations. at improving Russia’s image in the the EU’s hand was forced and official made by Malinowski years earlier, that European Union. From the Polish The story first appeared nearly three inquiries were launched. the secret base was close to Szymany “We do not see Poland itself as a government’s perspective, the fact years ago, when rumours that the CIA Airport. According to McShane, a source of threats to the Russian Fed- that Warsaw was the first EU capi- had held terror suspects in former So- Three reports materialised - the Coun- military intelligence training centre in eration,” Minister Lavrov declared. tal visited by a high ranking Rus- viet European countries came to the cil of Europe and the European Parlia- Stare Kiejkuty was used to detain, in- He also added that, “[even though] sian official since the outbreak of surface. An article published by the ment’s in 2006, and later, in 2007, the terrogate, and torture high-profile ter- we don’t agree on everything, we war in Georgia sent a much needed Washington Post in November 2005 European Commission’s – all of which, rorist suspects, most notably Khalid appreciate dialogue.” One of the is- signal abroad: that Poland is the claimed that the CIA set up illegal based on circumstantial evidence and Shaikh Mohammed, the man widely- sues that Moscow and Warsaw keep crucial player in relations between facilities as part of a “covert prison anonymous sources, confirmed sus- recognised as the mastermind of the disagreeing on is the future loca- the European Union and Moscow. system” following the 9/11 attacks in picions that Poland colluded with the 9/11 attacks. tion of elements of the U.S. missile The possibility to play this role has New York. U.S. government. defence system on Polish territory. long been on the wish list of Polish Furthermore, McShane said that Po- And though Poland might not pose policy-makers. But in order to be Although the paper refused to speci- In September 2006, after many ve- land was chosen primarily because its a direct risk to Russia, the defence listened to in Brussels (or Berlin and fy the countries implicated, it stated hement denials by the Polish gov- intelligence agency was keen to coop- shield, according to the Kremlin, Paris for that matter), Poland’s atti- that in addition to Afghanistan, Thai- ernment - including rebukes by the erate, and because it had no cultural constitutes a threat. Similarly dan- tude towards Russia must be mod- land, and Guantánamo Bay, “several then PM Kazimierz Marcinkiewicz, or religious links to Islamic fundamen- gerous from the Russian standpoint erate. In other words, were Warsaw democracies in Eastern Europe” were who declared the accusations to be talists such as Al-Qaeda. “Poland is is the further expansion of NATO, ever to become a spokesman for EU involved in the CIA’s “unconventional “groundless slander” - President Bush the 51st state,” McShane was allegedly which, as Lavrov put it, “harms Eu- eastern policy, it must not present war on terror.” admitted that the CIA did hold terror- told. “Americans have no idea.” ropean security.” This latter remark the most hawkish approach towards ist suspects at foreign locations and was countered by Mr. Sikorski’s re- the Kremlin. Shortly following the article’s publica- defended their use, saying that se- Crucially, McShane says he gathered minder that NATO is an alliance of tion, the US-based Human Rights Watch cret prisons, alternative interrogation information from “credible” high- free states, each of which enters the In an interview with Rzeczpospoli- publicly said that, based on flight methods and military tribunals were ranking CIA officials – claims that have organization of its own will. ta, Adam Daniel Rotfeld, Poland’s records and other evidence, Poland integral to keeping Americans safe. been rebuked by Polish officials and former minister of foreign affairs, and Romania were the unidentified Once again, no specific countries were scrutinised by media outlets across Another topic discussed by Polish said that Lavrov’s visit proved that European countries. Tom Malinowski, mentioned. the country. and Russian officials was the cur- Russia has started to treat Warsaw the organisation’s advocacy director, rent situation in the Caucasus. How- differently. The tone of talks has claimed that during September 2003, a During the following months, the When asked by a journalist from Gaze- ever, it is worth noting that if some changed and is now similar to that Boeing 737 leased by the CIA to trans- storm surrounding the accusations of ta Wyborcza about the existence of the strong words were exchanged, they used by the Kremlin during meet- port prisoners departed from Kabul illegal prisons based on Polish soil - to prisons following his acceptance of must have been spoken behind ings with states such as Spain, Italy and landed at Szymany Airport, north- the relief of the Polish government - Giertych’s letter, Prime Minister Don- closed doors. During the press and France. This means, Rotfeld eastern Poland, before continuing its seemed to be subsiding. But following ald Tusk said, “I have nothing more to conference afterwards, the war in argues, that Russia has come to ac- journey to Guantánamo Bay. a damning article written by New York add.” Georgia was not the central subject, cept the fact that Poland is a fully Times journalist Scott McShane, the is- as if the Polish and Russian delega- independent nation, as well as an The European Commission swiftly sue has re-surfaced. To this day, both former President tions had agreed that mutual bash- integral part of the West. Therefore, moved to quell the furore and dis- Aleksander Kwaśniewski and his suc- ing in the spotlight of TV cameras it is small wonder that Prime Minis- missed the report, saying they had no In the detailed report published in cessor Lech Kaczyński strongly deny would not do much good for either ter Donald Tusk called Mr. Lavrov’s suspicions that the CIA was running June, McShane claimed that the most any involvement in the scandal. side. This was met with criticism visit “a step in the right direction.” secret detention centres in Europe, important of the CIA’s “black sites” – a from some of the right wing me- This appraisal seems to be adding that there was no reason to term used to describe Guantánamo- dia and commentators. Zdzisław right on the mark because >> 8 question the denials by Poland and Ro- like interrogation facilities based in Krasnodębski, in his opinion piece it recalls an old rule of www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 7 News Poland

Brzeziński and the Bear Part II Poland to Repay Subsidies

Ewa Spohn Former U.S. National Security Advisor Zbigniew Brzeziński has been one of the most vocal, and oft- quoted critics of Russia’s invasion of Georgia. Here, in the second of a three-part essay, Professor Patrick Vaughan reflects on the statesman’s lifelong engagement with the Soviet Union. Poland may have to repay up to irregularities across the EU; 5.88 150 million euro as a result of ir- million złoty of this involved ag- regularities in the way that satel- ricultural subsidies. reziński acquitted him- quarters of Radio Free Europe. his seminal Soviet Bloc: Unity lite imaging was used to establish self with distinction at He approached the secretary and Conflict. This work provid- areas eligible for EU farm subsi- Poland is known for a lack of Harvard, and over the and, without an appointment, ed an in-depth look at the com- dies between 2005-2006. transparency on the subject of Bnext few years estab- said he wished to speak with munist regimes in the postwar farm subsidies. According to lished a reputation as a rising Jan Nowak-Jeziorański, the fa- era, but perhaps more impor- The mistakes were discovered a summary prepared by farm- star in the relatively new field mous wartime resistance leader tantly, signalled that “national during routine audits that the EU subsidy.org, a UK and Denmark- of “Sovietology.” In the course and head of the Polish desk of communism” was spreading regularly carries out on member based non-profit organisation set of 1955 he married a charming RFE. Nowak-Jeziorański, some- throughout the region — a force countries, and Poland is not the up to promote transparency in and beautiful Wellesley gradu- what nonplussed by the audac- that may, Brzeziński thought, only country where irregularities the Common Agricultural Policy, ate named Emile “Muska” Benes, ity of his unannounced young continue on to the Soviet Union have been uncovered. An anony- Poland ranked 12th on the their a scion of a distinguished Czech visitor, was stunned when over itself. Brzeziński moved on to mous EU official has been quoted transparency league table with a family. At the time, Brzeziński lunch Brzeziński displayed an Columbia University where he that in Poland’s case, there are no score of 27 percent, below Slov- was working on a groundbreak- encyclopedic knowledge of the continued to focus on the frag- suspicions of corruption, just ad- enia (2nd), Slovakia (4th), Estonia ing collaboration with Carl Polish underground resistance. menting nuances of the commu- ministrative errors. (5th), Czech Republic (8th) and Friedrich examining the concept After only two hours, he was nist world. New York City proved Latvia (11th). This low score was of “Totalitarianism” — offering assured that this young man an exciting venue for a career as The exact amount that the Polish due largely to the limited amount the controversial thesis that the would one day play a role in the a policy orientated academic. government may have to repay of data for 2006 that the Polish Nazi and Soviet systems that had liberation of Poland from the So- Brzeziński was now associating will be decided after the Euro- government published on the divided Poland in the autumn of viet Union. with the grand old figures in the pean Commission meets with web in 2007, and the fact that 1939 were essentially similar. foreign policy “establishment” Polish officials in December, but they listed it alphabetically, mak- Brzeziński, recalling the photos Brzeziński was unimpressed and writing widely discussed the maximum that a member ing searching and comparison of Gestapo and NKVD officers with the bravado of John Fos- articles for magazines such as state can be ordered to repay is cumbersome. The fact that the smiling together after smashing ter Dulles’ promise to “liberate” Foreign Affairs. Brzeziński’s 50% of farm subsidies received, data was released at all only came what Molotov called the “bas- Eastern Europe. After the Hun- primary concern was that many depending on how serious the about as a result of a high pro- tard child of Versailles,” it was garian fiasco of 1956, Brzeziński American strategists and politi- problem is. The Polish agricul- file campaign for transparency not really a debatable point. outlined a more moderate plan cians had come to view a divid- tural minister, Marek Sawicki, has initiated by a freelance journalist he referred to as “peaceful en- ed Europe as the natural state of stated that he hopes the amount when his official request for in- But Brzeziński told his friends gagement.” This entailed mov- international affairs. to be repaid will be less than 500 formation was refused in 2005. that he had no intention of ing from a head-on rhetorical million złoty, and that the map- becoming an absent-minded, confrontation with Moscow, to a Brzeziński was shocked and ping system is complete and the Nevertheless, farmsubsidy.org’s pipe smoking “Mr. Chips.” He more active policy of “peaceful saddened by Kennedy’s death method of establishing the size analysis of the Polish data shows enjoyed teaching, but his aca- engagement.” This offered a far in 1963. Within a few years, his and location of areas eligible for that in 2006, Poland contributed demic work in the ensuing years greater chance for success, and work Alternative to Partition ar- subsidies is now compliant with 32 euro per citizen to the Com- was almost invariably based on in the long run would be far bet- ticulated a plan to bridge the the EU’s requirements. mon Agricultural Policy and spent the larger goal of influencing ter prepared to dilute the Iron gap in an artificially divided Eu- 56 euro per citizen. Of the total American policy in the Cold War Curtain and entice the captive rope. In 1966 Brzeziński moved However, whatever the amount, 807 million euro distributed di- struggle with Moscow — and by populations with the political into Lyndon Johnson’s State it will have to come out of next rectly to farmers, 42 percent went extension reversing the stain of and economic attractions of the Department, where he was in- year’s national budget, not farm- to the top 10 percent of recipi- Yalta and relieving the plight of West. This approach was attrac- strumental in promoting LBJ’s ers’ pockets, as the government ents and some 1,150 million euro the Soviet occupation over East- tive to a young senator across “bridge building” approach to is committed to distributing the was spent on rural development, ern Europe. town named John Kennedy, who Eastern Europe. Brzeziński, ea- current package of EU funding. second only to France, which re- employed the young Harvard ger to motivate Johnson into ceived 1,184 million euro. In the summer of 1953 the 23- scholar to write speeches for his giving a speech on the need to Since joining the EU on May 1st year-old Brzeziński was on a 1960 presidential campaign. “engage” the Eastern Europe- 2004 until the end of 2007, the trip through Europe when he an states, circulated a Polish Ministry of Finance report- stopped by the Munich head- That same year Brzeziński wrote “white lie” that Robert >> 8 ed 83.3 million złoty in funding krakow FEIJ Dental Implant Clinic Dr Piotr Majewski Should your business be here? According to Newsweek magazine, Get your business seen in 50,000 ‘the best dental implant clinic in Poland’ copies of Krakow’s only Full range of dental services : English-language newspaper! Distributed at over 250 top conservative and esthetic dentistry, prosthetics, orthodontics, locations across the city including dental surgery and implantology. Specialized in bone and soft the international airport and tissue regenerative techniques and esthetic implantological on-board flights to the US, UK, treatment. Germany, France & Scandinavia! • Top quality treatment Question is... • Highly educated staff can you afford not to advertise with us? • Friendly atmosphere www.implantsclinic.com [email protected] Kraków, ul. Miłkowskiego 3/701, tel: (012) 4291699 tel. +48 012 263 65 23, +48 600 316 216 8 Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com News Poland

<< From Russia Poland and Ukraine to Remain << Brzezinski continued from 6 Euro 2012 Hosts continued from 7 diplomacy – namely that it is dif- Wojtek Galon ficult, or nigh on impossible to Kennedy was about to give a achieve a consensus with a diffi- very similar speech, and this EFA has reaffirmed its cult partner (not to mention a foe) would allow LBJ to trump his commitment to stag- if both sides refrain from talking to rival. ing Euro 2012 in Poland each other. However, at the same Uand Ukraine, but warned time, let us not forget that some Brzeziński was thus dis- both countries could still lose the Polish and Russian security inter- mayed when Johnson placed tournament if preparations fall fur- ests do clash (i.e. over the future a budding détente with the ther behind schedule. of Ukraine), and no talks can make Soviet Union above the pri- these differences disappear. ority of weaning Eastern The decision came at a September Europe out of the Soviet or- 26th meeting of UEFA’s Executive Certainly, Mr. Lavrov’s latest visit, bit. In the summer of 1968 Committee in Bordeaux, and was though not as significant as some Brzeziński and his wife made based on its review of a report by of the commentators would like it a trip to Czechoslovakia to experts on preparations for the 16- to be, underscores the need for a encourage the reforms in- team tournament. deepened debate over Polish policy herent in the Prague Spring. towards Russia. The need and readi- At the same time Brzeziński Officials in Poland and Ukraine ness for understanding Russia’s po- was troubled when Lyndon must have breathed a sigh of re- sition (not necessarily accepting it) Johnson expressed an un- lief after speculation in the days and its role in international politics toward eagerness to convene preceding the decision suggested after the war in Georgia, appears to a summit with the Soviet / cartoon Kasia Adamek that the co-hosts could lose the be an obvious initial move. In addi- leaders in hopes of easing 2012 tournament if the stuttering tion, Poland needs to embrace the the situation in Vietnam. The progress made by both since be- real strength of its power in rela- American position provided ing awarded the championships in tions with Moscow, a power that lies an implicit green light to the April last year continues. Platini also underlined the impor- “Euro 2012 has been awarded to within the EU’s framework. Acting Soviets, who sent troops into tance of completing stadiums in Ukraine and Poland and there is alone, or in a very small concert of Prague to crush the wayward Poland and Ukraine saw off a bid Warsaw and Kiev, saying that if no reason for this to change,” List- not-so-powerful states, is unlikely reform movement. from Italy and a joint candidacy either of the cities’ stadiums were kiewicz told reporters after the to reap much success - as the dis- from Croatia and Hungary, but not completed, then the country UEFA meeting. “What makes me so proportion of power between Russia Brzeziński contributed an have since struggled to tackle the in question would lose the right to confident? The progress we have and Poland is simply too huge - and editorial that week in the colossal tasks of upgrading stadi- stage the tournament. made.” it might be read by some states as Washington Post, describing ums and modernising rail and road pointless sabre-rattling. Perhaps the invasion as the death infrastructure, airports, roads and “Without Kiev or without Warsaw It seems that for now UEFA is hold- one of the most accurate assess- knell for the Soviet Union. hotels. [stadiums], we cannot have a tour- ing him to his word, although Eu- ments of the visit was given by “The invasion of Czecho- nament,” Platini said. ropean football’s governing body Jacek Saryusz-Wolski, head of the slovakia,” wrote Brzeziński, While Poland has moved forward confirmed that there will not nec- European Parliament’s Foreign Re- “will hasten the process not in the last six months by securing Warsaw is to stage the opening essarily be the same number of lations Committee, who expressed only of disintegration of in- essential funding for projects, the match in a new 55,000-seat national venues per country and that the his satisfaction that “communica- ternational communism but country still faces major problems stadium on the banks of the Vistula number of stadiums to be used will tion channels remain open for both in all probability also of the with transport infrastructure. Or- River. The crumbling 10th Anniver- be a maximum of eight and a mini- sides to explain their motives. It is internal decay of the Soviet ganisers have already conceded sary Stadium that currently stands mum of six. important that problems substantial political system. Without a that a number of the proposed on the site is slowly being torn for Polish interests, but considered doubt, the more enlightened railway developments will not be down and preliminary construction “If the progress is not even, there to be lesser from the entire Europe- segments of Soviet society completed on time, while the Polish on the new stadium is scheduled may be more venues in one country an perspective, be resolved. Matters are as outraged and disgust- government has staggered in up- to begin in early 2009 and finish in than another,” UEFA General Sec- not marked by extreme differences ed as the rest of the world. grading existing roads and building 2011. retary David Taylor said after the should be discussed through dia- Before long, the contagion badly needed new ones. meeting. logue.” of freedom which is tempo- The renovation of Kiev’s 80,000- rarily being snuffed out in Meanwhile, a political crisis trig- seat Olympic stadium, which host- Poland has sought to extend the From this standpoint, one of the Prague will spread to Kiev gered by squabbling between ed the football tournament at the number of host venues in the coun- greatest paradoxes of Polish policy and Moscow.” Ukraine’s president and prime min- 1980 Moscow Olympics and is to try, hoping that along with Warsaw, towards Russia derives from the ister, coupled with the September host the Euro 2012 final, is another Poznań, Gdańsk and Wrocław, ven- following choice: the harder the Part III of “Brzeziński and collapse of the ruling coalition’s major hurdle in Ukrainian prepara- ues in Krakow and Chorzów could approach Warsaw takes towards the Bear” can be read in the government, has considerably tions. Delays in finding a company be used for the tournament. UEFA Moscow, the less likely Poland is to November edition of the Kra- slowed progress and put extra strain to reconstruct the stadium have led has said that the final list of host be able to influence the EU’s east- kow Post. Patrick Vaughan on the Eastern European country’s to doubts that the necessary reno- cities will be announced at some ern policy. On the flipside, the so- is a professor of history at aim to hold onto hosting rights. vations will be completed on time. stage in 2009. called soft approach might cause the Jagiellonian University, two problems for policy-makers Krakow. His forthcoming bi- While recognising that progress has Despite the setbacks, Polish and Euro 2012 will be the first major in Warsaw. Firstly, Poland’s mild- ography, Brzeziński: A Life been achieved by both countries in Ukrainian organisers continue to sporting event held in former com- er rhetoric could be mistaken for On the Grand Chessboard of the last six months at an organisa- put a positive spin on things, most munist Eastern Europe since the weakness by some of the Kremlin’s Power, is due to be published tional level and in the advancement notably Polish FA President Michał Moscow Olympics in 1980. hardliners; secondly, the argument in English and Polish edi- of infrastructure, UEFA President Listkiewicz, who refuted claims of being “too soft on Russia” is still tions later in the year. Parts Michel Platini was quoted after the made in the German media that a powerful accusation that speaks of “Brzeziński and the Bear” meeting by uefa.com as saying that he had said he was worried about to the historical experience of many were published in the Polish the “progress is neither uniform Poland’s readiness to co-host Euro Poles, and as such, will certainly be Review. nor constant.” 2012. exploited by opposing political par- ties. www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 9 Opinion Polish Army Goes Shopping The Universal Spy Grażyna Zawada by Nick Hodge

Over the past few weeks, Polish papers have been packed with rev- he wrote a request to the Secret Police asking if he could have some elations about one Professor Aleksander Wolszczan. Until recently, more money for his services. Allegedly, the powers that be complied. the professor was chiefly known for being the first man to pinpoint an extra-solar planet. However, a Soviet spectre has reared its head. At present, Wolszczan’s case doesn’t appear to teach us anything new about the psychology of the informer. And it should be men- The claim that a brilliant young astronomer collaborated with com- tioned that no respectable voices are baying for blood. The pro- munist secret police during the seventies comes as no earth-shat- fessor will not lose his honorary citizenship of Polish towns, and tering news. Revelations about alleged informants have become he will not be cold-shouldered in academic circles. Neverthe- an almost monthly occurrence in the Polish media. High fliers in less, as each new star is “outed,” the bravery of those who re- the arts and sciences are amongst the most regular players in this fused to compromise shines through with ever greater radiance. carnival of compromised souls: writer Ryszard Kapuściński was un- masked not long after he departed from this world, many more had Undeniably, the judgements of today’s generation are de- Patriot missiles to face the music in person (although few showed grave remorse). tached from the gritty realities of Soviet life. However, certain facts remain. It’s worth remembering that even if Wolszczan ixty million zlotys ready used in Afghanistan. Time and time again it appears that a passport was the crucial fac- did not harm anyone through his dealings, the whole culture will be spent on tor. Today, when freedom of movement is largely taken as a given in of informing did cause damage, in some cases it ruined lives. new military equip- Poland hopes also for the Europe, it’s hard to comprehend the lure of this seemingly mundane Sment for the Polish United States to sell Patriot document. But, if you speak to Poles of fifty and over, 99 percent will Scores of Poles were denied passports for refusing to play the army. According to Min- missiles at a discount, as tell you that even as late as 1980, no one believed that communism informing game. Dozens had their careers capped. Solidarity ister of Defense Bogdan the Americans prepare to would end (or at least not in their own lifetime). The system had activists - who had informers circling them in shoals – were ar- Klich, this is the maximum begin work on a military already lasted 40 years - eight times as long as the Nazi Occupation - rested and incarcerated. Some were beaten up, some were killed. sum Poland can afford at base in Redzikow near the why shouldn’t it run for another 40? With this in mind, many decided present. city of Slupsk in the north that coming to some kind of arrangement with the regime was a must. Thus it’s hardly surprising that there is some bitterness from those of Poland. The U.S. wants that were kept down by the old regime. Journalist Bronisław Wild- By the end of this year the their soldiers and employ- You don’t have to be a militant anti-commie to concede that there stein, one of the key movers in the “lustracja” campaign (the move- Polish air force will get the ees to receive tax relief in were aspects of Soviet life that weren’t exactly jolly. Those who ment to expose former collaborators), lost a close friend in the last of the contracted 48 Poland, so a deal might be experienced it first-hand cite the frequent food shortages, the notorious “Pyas Case” (Stanisław Pyas, a student in Krakow, was al- F-16s, as well as two CASA made. The Supplement of epic queues for mundane items like toothpaste, and not least, the legedly murdered by the Secret Services in 1977). Likewise, Father cargo planes and five Her- the Status of Forces Agree- tangible sense that towns and cities were rotting, owing to so lit- Tadeusz Isakowicz-Zaleski, one of the “Solidarity priests,” was twice cules transport planes. The ment (SOFA) would also tle money being invested. Being fed constant disinformation was beaten up, and his friend, Father Jerzy Popiełuszko, was murdered. air force will be equipped include American soldiers not exactly uplifting either. Thus, finding a way to transcend the with modern anti-missile not being called to account grubby reality was no mean feat (although the Catholic faith played As Isakowicz-Zaleski recently discovered, several of the cler- systems and a new type of in front of a Polish court. a huge part). However, for those born with academic or artistic gymen who had been informing on him rose to positions combat training airplane. According to the leader gifts, the concept of a creative career offered a glimmer of hope. of great power in the Church. Thus it came as no surprise Its design is yet unknown, of the negotiation team, two years ago when voices within the Church vigorously op- as the army has launched a Vice-minister of Defense It’s accepted that becoming a full-blown professor was nigh on im- posed the priest’s plans to publish his book on collaboration. tender for it. Stanisław Komorowski, possible if you weren’t arranged. Meanwhile, making it in the arts finding common ground was a tricky business if you weren’t prepared to play communist The question of whether former collaborators can hold positions of As a part of the modernisa- may take a few months. ball. And invariably, just when you were beginning to make it in authority today is not as straightforward as it might seem. As men- tion of the navy, Klich has your chosen career, one of the “smutni panowie” (sad gentlemen) tioned, no serious voices are claiming that Professor Wolszczan has confirmed the completion The military base in would appear. Yes, you could have your passport - you could take blood on his hands, or that he should be stripped of his credentials of a multipurpose corvette, Redzików is to be a part your film to Cannes, you could perform your concerto in Rome, as a teacher of astronomy. However, logic suggests that each case is i.e. a light ship – Gawron. of the American missile you could do your teaching stint in London... But there was just different. For example, the case of Stanisław Wielgus, the would-be The already existing mis- defence system. It will be one small proviso. Put simply, you had to keep them informed. Archbishop of Warsaw is complex. Here is a man who until recently sile boats will be equipped Polish property, built and held the power to stifle figures such as Father Isakowicz-Zaleski. with water missiles, and run by American troops. It’s easy to grasp that for many ambitious young people, it was pos- Was it sensible that he - a long-time informer - should maintain one waterfront corps with sur- The second base, newly sible to convince yourself that you wouldn’t do anyone any harm. of the most hallowed jobs in the land? Many felt not, and Archbish- face-water missiles. The negotiated, would include You could just waffle a bit. Not say anything important. Yet be- op Wielgus was obliged to resign from his post in December 2006. navy will also get a new a Patriot missile launcher. fore long, people had several years of informing under their belts. mine destroyer and a mod- One of the conditions un- These issues are already more than familiar to the Polish pub- ern submarine. der which Poland agreed In the case of Aleksander Wolszczan, not much has come to light about lic, but to the West, they constitute a somewhat bewildering to host the missile defence specific people that he might have harmed, and no one is insisting Pandora’s Box. Poland did manage to effect a bloodless revolu- Surface troops will contin- base was that it would get that he did cause direct harm to any of his peers. Indeed, Wolszczan tion in 1989, and for this is should be proud. However, there ue testing a new type of ar- help from the U.S. for its claims that when Solidarity began, he deliberately refused to offer were side effects. Poland did not start again from scratch. And moured personnel carrier regular army needs. information on activists. The most memorable claim that anyone has whilst a witch hunt is not advisable, those historians strug- called the “Rosomak,” al- made about the astronomer thus far is that when his son was born, gling to reveal truths should not be halted in their tracks. Yes of course I am Special Report KRAK THE VOTE! voting in this election. I think if you don’t vote then you have no right to criticise the government. It is a civic duty to be a part of the process. Although sometimes American politics make me wonder how out of date the process of the Electoral College is and how honest campaign The Krakow Post tells Americans and Canadians in Krakow how to vote but not how to vote. funds in America are. I would like to see clean and free elections on a presidential level but even if they are not it is irresponsible With reporting by Anna Bienkowska, Dana Dramowicz, and Anna Spysz. to omit voting - it shows you don’t care and that is a problem.

The way the next elected president deals with the economy, the situation in Iraq, and foreign policy regarding Russia and Georgia will af- For anyone who’s been living under a rock for the past few months (or is just fect Poland. The next president should also revisit visas for the Poles, especially since the situation in America is not that lenient more interested in Continental politics), change is on the way in the White towards illegal immigrants after September 11th, and since the economy is terrible there are a lot fewer people House - the American White House that is. The presidential elections immigrating there to work. Maybe this government will realise Poles just want to go to are quickly approaching on November 4th. They happen every four America to sightsee. years and each president can serve up to two terms. For current President George W. Bush this means that he’s moving out of the oval office and someone else is moving in.

Perhaps this election has received so much coverage in in- ternational as well as national media because it is breaking ground on many levels. The Democratic candidate, Senator ith all the fuss around Barack Obama from Illinois, is of mixed African American the upcoming elections in the and Caucasian heritage – a first. His vice-presidential run- WUnited States, it might be easy to miss ning mate is Senator Joe Biden from Delaware. the fact that its northern neighbour Canada will also be electing its newest federal government this month. Current Prime Minister Stephen Harper has called The Republican candidate is 72-year-old John McCain, sena- the general election one year earlier than expected on October 14th, presumably riding tor from Arizona; if elected, he would be the oldest person to on his recent popularity in the polls in an effort to gain a majority in parliament. Harper, be elected president. His running mate is Governor Sarah Palin from who is currently the head of a minority Conservative government, has stated his reason for Alaska. If the Republicans are elected she will be the first woman vice- calling a snap election as a deadlock in discussion in the House of Commons resulting president in American history. in a “dysfunctional” parliament.

Though both parties’ campaigns have been courting voters for months, and debates between The Canadian prime minister is not chosen directly by voters such as the the candidates have already begun, many Americans are still undecided when it comes to which American president, but is rather the leader of the political party that gains candidate will get their vote come November. On this side of the Atlantic, the Krakow Post has the most seats in the House of Commons. Canadians vote for MPs (Members of hit the streets and asked ordinary Poles as well as American expatriates their opinions on taking Parliament) from their electoral district, or riding, to represent them in Ot- part in the democratic process and what effect American politics will have on Poland. tawa.

So while the elections in Canada may not seem to be the most exciting ABSENTEE VOTING news item on the menu, it may in the end result in a new reputation for North America abroad. If Harper remains in power and Senator Obama wins the elec- tion in America, the world will certainly be confused with the United States as the he general (presidential) elections in America are taking place on November 4th of this year. For all eligible voters, at first glance it would seem liberal alternative to infinitely easier to buy a plane ticket and complete the registration and voting process in person. However, there are only a few steps to follow for conservative Canada. Teligible voters. Major party leaders: The first requirement is completing a Federal Postcard Application; this form allows voter registration and requests an absentee ballot. The form then has to be returned to a local election office. Stephen Harper - Conservative Party Stéphane Dion - Liberal Party The process complicates itself at this juncture because there are thousands of election offices in America and every state has different requirements. Gilles Duceppe - Bloc Québécois Other than the deadlines, they also vary so immensely that in some states you can register and request a ballot even by email or fax in relation to Jack Layton - New Democratic Party other states where you can only register or request a ballot via traditional snail mail. Some states will only accept a drivers’ license number as proof of Elizabeth May - Green Party citizenship, and in some other states all forms must be notarized (notarization can be done at a U.S. consulate or embassy). If the information is incomplete it will be rejected. If the process is started early enough the election office will contact the individual to correct the information. The sug- How to vote: gested time for the entire process is 90 days. If you’re a Canadian in Krakow, you can vote in the general election by mail using a special bal- If an absentee ballot is received in time it can be completed and returned to the election office in the U.S. to be counted. In this straightforward process lot. An application must be completed and sent by fax or snail mail to Elections Canada by many things can and usually do go wrong, especially when transmitting things by mail. The delays in mail transmittal have largely contributed to disap- October 7th and a special ballot will be mailed to your address in Poland. The ballot must pointing results of eligible ballots counted in the last election. As a result it has been simplified by two factors. be received in Ottawa by 6 pm on election day (October 14th). Requirements to vote include a photocopy of proof of identity and ordinary residence in Canada. The first is if the voter does not receive an absentee ballot in time but an absentee ballot has been requested, the potential voter can complete a federal write-in absentee ballot. It is recommended by officials that the appropriate time to complete a FWAB is 30 days prior to the election. For the most accurate information and to download an application to vote by mail visit Elections Canada online at The other factor is that if an absentee ballot has been completed but there is doubt that it will arrive on time it can be sent through the Express Your www.elections.ca Vote programme through FedEx. The company has joined to help American citizens cast their vote and send ballot shipments from Poland for $23.50, including the ability to track the shipment. A small price for taking part in the democratic process. I am voting because I want my voice to In reality the only difficult part in registering to vote and requesting a ballot is finding out what the requirements are count in an election that will have a significant effect on the for each state. The non-partisan Overseas Vote Foundation and the Federal Voting Assistance Program have prod- entire world. I am also voting because it’s my obligation as a citizen of the ded simplification of the process along. Both have helpful websites, respectively overseasvotefoundation.org USA. If I want to critique the policies, politicians, and the government, then I should and fvap.gov, that provide deadlines, requirements, and election office addresses by state, as well as other also vote - because that’s one of the most basic ways to affect change. However, I worry about helpful information. Additionally, the Overseas Vote Foundation has a help desk where emailed questions the news that electronic polling machines are being rigged, because this could seriously undermine will be answered within approximately 24 hours. American democracy - if people don’t think that their vote will count (or that it won’t be counted correctly) they will stop voting. Even though the task of registering and voting may seem daunting for Americans abroad, the tools that are available should make voting an option even for the less politically motivated individual. It’s hard to say exactly how a democratic win in the US would affect Poland, but there’s always the hope that the visa requirements would be lifted or changed. That is actually long overdue. Hopefully, if Obama wins he’ll stop For more information, and to register I am voting because for years the Re- the anti-rocket shield program, because that entire project will only cause problems by putting Poland in an to vote if you are an American citizen living abroad, publicans have been in office. Now we are actually in this awkward (and potentially threatening) position in the “new cold war” between Russia and the US. Russia please visit mess because of Republicans. If the Democrats are in office there can has already stated that if any American missile fired from Polish soil would strike their country, then www.overseasvotefoundation.org be change. they would have the right to attack Poland in return. Also, of course, if Obama wins fewer Polish troops will die in the Middle East (McCain would most likely not withdraw Poland is part of the EU so I don’t see how it would be affected. Polish politics coalition troops from Iraq and Afghanistan, and Obama has said that are as bankrupt as American politics, and they have to fix their own this would be one of his top priorities). problems. David Miller, owner of Massolit bookshop Yes of course I am voting in this election. I think if you don’t vote then you have no right to criticise the government. It is a civic duty to be a part of the process. Although sometimes he Krakow Post sought American politics make me wonder how out of date the process of the Electoral College is and how honest campaign out some locals to get funds in America are. I would like to see clean and free elections on a presidential level but even if they are not it is irresponsible Ttheir take on the U.S. to omit voting - it shows you don’t care and that is a problem. elections. Poles replied to the following questions: The way the next elected president deals with the economy, the situation in Iraq, and foreign policy regarding Russia and Georgia will af- 1. Have you been fol- fect Poland. The next president should also revisit visas for the Poles, especially since the situation in America is not that lenient lowing the American towards illegal immigrants after September 11th, and since the economy is terrible there are a lot fewer people elections? immigrating there to work. Maybe this government will realise Poles just want to go to 2. Do you think the America to sightsee. Anna Bienkowska, customer service rep. outcome will effect Poland? If yes, how? 3. If you could vote in the U.S. elections, who CANADA VOTES (TOO) would you pick? Why? 1. Not too closely. 2. Yes, we might get more involved in some international ith all the fuss around conflicts. the upcoming elections in the 3. Barack Obama. WUnited States, it might be easy to miss - Magda Wrzeszcz, student the fact that its northern neighbour Canada will also be electing its newest federal government this month. Current Prime Minister Stephen Harper has called 1. No, I don’t like politics and I try to avoid political the general election one year earlier than expected on October 14th, presumably riding news, especially when they don’t affect me. on his recent popularity in the polls in an effort to gain a majority in parliament. Harper, 2. Many things that happen in the States affect Poland. who is currently the head of a minority Conservative government, has stated his reason for The U.S. is a big player and a lot depends on them. calling a snap election as a deadlock in discussion in the House of Commons resulting 3. I’d probably vote for Obama, because I prefer the in a “dysfunctional” parliament. Democrats. I also know that from the start, Obama was against the war in Iraq. But I can’t vote anyway! The Canadian prime minister is not chosen directly by voters such as the - Ola Sztąberska, marketing manager American president, but is rather the leader of the political party that gains the most seats in the House of Commons. Canadians vote for MPs (Members of 1. Yes, since the candidates were confirmed, rather in- Parliament) from their electoral district, or riding, to represent them in Ot- tensively. 2. Yes - above all economically - the state of the global tawa. economy and financial affairs are in many ways depen- dent upon the U.S. As well as politically - political stabil- So while the elections in Canada may not seem to be the most exciting ity in the U.S. could help Poland to strengthen its politi- news item on the menu, it may in the end result in a new reputation for North cal ties with the U.S. as a European partner. However, America abroad. If Harper remains in power and Senator Obama wins the elec- ultimately this depends upon how the Polish diplomacy tion in America, the world will certainly be confused with the United States as the handles the matter. liberal alternative to 3. Obama, because even though he is more of a “de- conservative Canada. signed candidate” than McCain, he is capable of bringing a lot more to American politics - above all a modern way Major party leaders: of thinking and the concept of a liberal state. - Marek Kamiński, musician Stephen Harper - Conservative Party Stéphane Dion - Liberal Party 1. So-so. Gilles Duceppe - Bloc Québécois 2. Sure, the results of the election will have a global Jack Layton - New Democratic Party impact, after all, the U.S. is the strongest, right? The Elizabeth May - Green Party world’s economy and many essential military actions are dependent on the U.S. 3. Obama - he understands the economy and now the How to vote: U.S. needs an expert desperately, as well as a change in social mentality. If you’re a Canadian in Krakow, you can vote in the general election by mail using a special bal- - Marta Firlet, marketing director lot. An application must be completed and sent by fax or snail mail to Elections Canada by October 7th and a special ballot will be mailed to your address in Poland. The ballot must be received in Ottawa by 6 pm on election day (October 14th). Requirements to vote 1. Yes. include a photocopy of proof of identity and ordinary residence in Canada. 2. No. 3. For me, voting for McCain is more a vote against Obama. In my view, McCain would be the lesser of two For the most accurate information and to download an application evils. I have not been convinced by the campaign Obama to vote by mail visit Elections Canada online at has been running – in fact he seems even shallower, more www.elections.ca of a populist and emptier than most politicians. He seems to be trying to sway people to his side with easily pal- pable slogans and rhetoric of “change” and “progress.” I am voting because I want my voice to Such a campaign, if I were an American citizen, would count in an election that will have a significant effect on the seem offensive and a downright insult to my intelligence. entire world. I am also voting because it’s my obligation as a citizen of the Although McCain’s campaign isn’t by any measure much USA. If I want to critique the policies, politicians, and the government, then I should more cerebral, it does seem to use less cheap one-line also vote - because that’s one of the most basic ways to affect change. However, I worry about sound bytes. The fact that so much of the media and the news that electronic polling machines are being rigged, because this could seriously undermine celebrity world openly support Obama only furthers my American democracy - if people don’t think that their vote will count (or that it won’t be counted correctly) disapproval of him; some bimbo Hollywood starlet or they will stop voting. self-righteous “journalist” do not have adequate respect in my minds for me to listen to their opinions. When it comes to the issues, both candidates are pretty vague It’s hard to say exactly how a democratic win in the US would affect Poland, but there’s always the hope that the and unspecific. I really don’t think anything much will visa requirements would be lifted or changed. That is actually long overdue. Hopefully, if Obama wins he’ll stop change in Iraq, Middle America, or with the current eco- the anti-rocket shield program, because that entire project will only cause problems by putting Poland in an nomic situation no matter who wins. The U.S. is run by awkward (and potentially threatening) position in the “new cold war” between Russia and the US. Russia institutions, not individuals. Although the president tech- has already stated that if any American missile fired from Polish soil would strike their country, then nically has a lot of executive powers, one would have to they would have the right to attack Poland in return. Also, of course, if Obama wins fewer be pretty naïve to think he acts alone, without the sup- Polish troops will die in the Middle East (McCain would most likely not withdraw port and direction of numerous interest groups – groups coalition troops from Iraq and Afghanistan, and Obama has said that that don’t change with each administration. this would be one of his top priorities). - Michał Długi, doctor with state health insurance company Jule Land, PhD student 12 Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com Business

Quattro Business Park to Rise in Krakow

Adelina Krupski

rakow-based devel- and multi-level car park are mation of the repeatedly-prov- oper Grupa Buma planned to follow in Octo- en thesis that, second to War- recently commenced ber 2010. The remaining two saw, Krakow is the place for Kconstruction of one buildings are expected to be construction,” states Deputy of its largest projects, Quattro finished in 2011 and 2012. Mayor of Krakow Kazimierz Business Park. Over the next Bujakowski. “The undertaking four years, this impressive The whole investment was of such an investment, which building site located on Gen. spread over four years with an commits itself to a strategy Bora Komorowskiego Avenue eye to managing investment of development for the city, will be developed into a mod- risk, explains Grupa Buma is strategically essential. It ern office complex consisting representative Piotr Michalski. establishes the conditions of four 14-storey buildings, “Due to the unpredictable eco- for those firms who have in- totaling 48,000 square metres nomic situation, it is unknown vested here and are operating of class-A office space. whether Krakow will need so to expand.” During his speech much space,” states Michal- at the opening conference on photo / Adelina Krupski Designed by the APA ski. “However, splitting the Sept. 4, Bujakowski focused Kuryłowicz & Associates ar- investment into stages allows on the changes Krakow has un- chitectural studio, the 150 it to be accelerated or delayed dergone over the last decade A model of the business park was presented at the press conference million euro project will also as necessary.” or so, specifically its growth comprise a 200-person con- from an industrial city to one percent is in use, a fact that ings. ference centre, restaurants, Professor Stefan Kuryłowicz, that is service orientated. justifies the immense scale of medical clinics, and other architect from Warsaw and the Quattro Business Park en- Since its establishment in small service shops. Addition- designer of the development, According to Bujakowski, terprise. 1991, Grupa Buma has com- ally, the complex will include states the idea behind the ar- “Krakow has become a cen- pleted several office invest- parking facilities allowing for chitectural character of the tre for services: a centre for The plans and architectural ments in Krakow, such as up to 1,100 cars. complex was “an object direct- IT as well as accounting and renderings for the new office Buma Square Business Park, ed towards a new kind of per- business services. One of the complex are certainly strik- Rondo Business Park and the As the largest office project son who travels and is open to crucial restrictions that deter- ing, effectively transmitting ONYX office complex. The currently under construction the world; such people will be mines further investment by the concept of a contempo- group has also built over in southern Poland, Quattro deciding the future of Poland; firms is restricted availability rary design. Moreover, for em- 1,700 apartments and 270 Business Park is to be built in a place where young people of commercial office space.” ploying an environmentally single-family homes. More four stages. While the first of and progressive firms will feel Bujakowski maintains that of friendly approach, a façade of than 50 firms in Krakow rent the four buildings is sched- at home.” the 240,000 square metres of glass and tiles allows for natu- space in buildings developed uled for completion in Decem- office space Krakow acquired ral light to enter, cutting the by Grupa Buma. ber 2009, the second building “This development is a confir- between 2005 and 2007, 95 energy demand of the build- & & Krakow Apartments Stay in Style

www.krakow-apartments.com [email protected] phone +48 12 4214865 mobile +48 514973785 www.krakow-apartments.com www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 13 Property Post

Krakow Property

Why buy in Krakow?

or the bright bucca- investors. And if you’ve fallen neers who swept into in love with the city, you don’t Cracow in 1989, pick- have to be a millionaire to pur- ing themselves up a chase a property here. F photo / Mateusz Majewski nice flat or two in the process, well, let’s just say that they’ve For big investors, there’s no got a pretty fine investment doubt that owning a flamboy- However, these are not neces- Krakow, but it carries a tragic track on buying property in on their hands. The prices for ant fin-de-siecle palace could sarily always the best flats in legacy. Poland, although if you’re af- real estate were so low then be a highly congenial state of town. A quarter of a mile be- ter farmland or forest, things that a Western pizza chain affairs, just like in the good yond the Planty is a second Jewish properties were spread are a little more complicated. was able to set up shop in a old days. And indeed, al- ring-road, and between the across the whole of Krakow magnificent palace at the foot though there is no law yet for two are some fine residential sixty-five years ago, but the However, as far as urban of the Royal Castle. the restitution of property to districts, generally built in the biggest concentration was in property goes, applicants Poles themselves, a good deal nineteenth century in a gra- Kazimierz, as well as on the shouldn’t encounter too many Thankfully, Krakow has not of the aristocracy have re- cious eclectic style. They’re grand streets connecting the problems, whether you’re a been mongrelized by such claimed their pre-war palaces. usually a little tattier than district with the Old Town, citizen of one the aforemen- scenarios. And whilst a fleet But having lost pretty much within the Old Town cen- such as ul. Sarego, ul. Sebas- tioned countries or not. The of Western hotels has sailed everything else after the war, tre, but prices are markedly tiana and ul. Starowiślna. Pro- latter groups have to apply for into town, the best are Polish- they tend to live in a small cheaper. fessional advice is paramount a special permit from the Min- owned, as is evidenced by the apartment at the top, leasing if you are interested in buying istry of Internal Affairs, but marvellous palace renovations out the rest of the property. More complicated for inves- property in these localities. this is generally forthcoming, of the Likus chain. Nevertheless, the new-old tors are the properties that provided you’re not a notori- owners are often happy to sell still have not been reclaimed, The law on purchasing a prop- ous criminal. However, although prices a flat within their property. At or those that are in the proc- erty in Poland states that citi- have gone up dramatically in this stage, prices are natural- ess of reclamation. The Kaz- zens of EU countries, as well the last ten years, the rates are ly at their highest within the imierz district is amongst the as Icelanders, Norwegians and still more than tempting for centre of the Old Town. most colourful and popular in Liechtensteiners, get the fast

Current Property Offers

krakow FEIJ Got a property for rent or sale? ul. Warszawska (ANGEL CITY) Advertise it HERE in our dedicated ul. Bajeczna (DĄBIE) ul. Krowoderska (OLD TOWN) 48 sq m, 1 bedroom apartment, 65 sq m, 2-bedroom apartment, 52 sq m, 3-room apartment 2nd floor, balcony, garage. property section! For more details contact: 5th floor, new building, lift, 3rd floor, fully equipped and furnished Developer standard parking space Price – 500 000 PLN Price – 599 000 PLN Price – 590 000 PLN [email protected] For more details email: For more details email: For more details email: [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] tel: +48 (0)12 429 1699

ul. Cybulskiego 2 (OLD TOWN) ul. Godlewskiego (BRONOWICE) ul. Kordeckiego (KAZIMIERZ) ul. Krakusa / Rękawki ul. Filarecka 55 sq m, 1 bedroom apartment, 33 sq m, studio apartment, 63 sq m, 3-room apartment Ground floor with access to the garden 64 sq m, 2 bedroom apartment, 55 sq m, 1-bedroom apartment groundfloor floor, new building, 3rd floor, newly renovated Furnished and equipped to high standard 2nd floor unfurnished ground floor, unfurnished parking space Price – 230 000 PLN Price – 620 000 PLN Price – 852 500 PLN Price – 755 000 PLN Price – 660 000 PLN For more details email: For more details email: For more details email: For more details email: For more details email: [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] 14 Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com Sporting Post

SPORT IN BRIEF Hope Still for Wisła Daniël van Hoven

Cycling - Voigt Wins Tour of Wisła cling on for Second Coming Poland

German Jens Voigt won the seven- Wojtek Galon day Tour of Poland which ended in Krakow on the 20th September. There were no surprises at White Dane Lars Bak was second overall, Hart Lane on August 19th when one minute 22 seconds behind, Polish champions Wisła Krakow whilst Italy’s Franco Pellizotti lost to favourites Tottenham came in third at 1:24. Australia’s Hotspur in the first round of the Allan Davis was fourth at 1:27. UEFA Cup. CSC rider Voigt, 37, won stage six to Zakopane on Friday with a lone Wisła can hold their heads high attack and defended his lead with though after a determined per- the help of his teammates during formance gave them a realistic the rain-soaked final stage. chance of progressing into the next round, with the teams due to German Robert Forster of the meet again for the second leg in Gerolsteiner team won the 153- Krakow on October 2nd. kilometre final stage from Rabka to Krakow, beating Alberto Cur- Having grabbed a crucial away tolo of Italy and Yauheni Hutar- goal in the 2-1 defeat, and putting ovich of Belarus in a sprint finish. up a respectable showing against The Tour of Poland is Voigt’s 86th a north London club that’s not victory in his 14-year professional short of cash (Spurs invested career. This year, Voigt won the around £70 million on new play- Criterium International stage race ers this summer), Wisła needs for the fourth time and a Giro only a 1-0 victory in the return d’Italia stage. leg to progress into the group stages. Formula 1 - Debut in Singapore Results in Alonso Win The visitors got off to a strong Tottenham vs. Wisła / Photo by Ian Walton (Getty Images) start, maintaining most of the On Sunday 28th September, Fern- early possession and applying It was the England midfielder’s Wisła’s disciplined play continued kow, a point that didn’t go unno- ando Alonso of the Formula 1 pressure on the Spurs defence. first goal for his new club since to frustrate their opponents, yet ticed by the Krakow side’s coach, team, ING Renault, won the first However, they were restricted to his £15 million move from the the Poles were not without their Maciej Skorża. “We are waiting ever Singapore Grand Prix. In a ambitious long range shots, all Blackburn Rovers in July. luck after a Darren Bent goal was with optimism for the rematch race which saw regular neutral- of which failed to trouble Spurs disallowed for an offside decision in Krakow,” Skorża said after the ising interruptions by the safety goalkeeper Heurelho Gomes. The ecstatic home crowd hadn’t that was dubious at best. game. car, the Spanish Formula 1 world finished celebrating when Wisła champion of 2005 and 2006 kept It didn’t take Spurs long to find delivered what could be a tell- Bent found relief in the 73rd The two-leg tie is now delicately his cool and notched up his first their feet, as strong midfield play ing counter-punch a minute later. minute though, neatly nodding poised for what should be a scin- victory of the season, coming in by Jenas and Zokora saw them Following some excellent work by in substitute Fraizer Campbell’s tillating return match in Krakow. ahead of German Nico Rosberg counter Wisła’s positive start and Rafał Boguski and a gentle layoff cross and putting Tottenham and Brit Lewis Hamilton. While on begin creating chances. by Paweł Brożek, Czech playmak- ahead once again after some Tottenham Hotspur 2 (Bentley the podium, Hamilton enlarged his er Tomáš Jirsák produced a cool loose marking in the penalty box 33, Bent 73) – Wisła Krakow 1 lead over his direct competitors. In the 23rd minute, Jonathan finish to draw proceedings level by the Krakow defence. (Jirsák 34) Neither Ferrari’s Felipe Massa or Woodgate met a David Bentley and send the 3,000 plus Wisła defending champion Kimi Raikko- corner with a firm header that supporters at the stadium into With their tails in the air, Totten- Tottenham Hotspur: Gomes, nen were able to score, likewise was well handled by Wisła keeper raptures. ham sought to extend their lead, Gunter (O’Hara 57), Woodgate, Polish star Robert Kubica. Mariusz Pawełek. twice coming close through ef- King, Bale, Bentley, Jenas, Zoko- Wisła proceeded to take advantage forts from Bale and King, with the ra, Lennon (Campbell 57), Gio- Kubica was cut off by Hamilton Pawełek was called into action of the defensive fragility that has latter spoiling a good chance to vani (Assou-Ekotto 70), Bent during the start, which threw the again in the 30th minute, bravely seen Tottenham sitting bottom secure the home side’s first win Pole back. A pit stop during a safety coming off his line to deny Dar- of the English Premier League of the season in all competitions. Goals: Bentley 33, Bent 73 car situation resulted in a 10 sec- ren Bent, following some scratchy table so far this season, and Wisła ond penalty, leaving the number Wisła defending. midfielder Mauro Cantoro tested Although starved of chances in Yellow Card: O’Hara three in this season’s standings, Gomes once more before the end the second half, Wisła almost in eleventh place at the finish of It was never going to be long be- of the first half, although his 20 drew level with four minutes to Wisła Krakow: Pawełek, Sin- what was the first ever Grand Prix fore Tottenham converted their metre drive was comfortably han- play when substitute Andrzej glar, Baszczyński, Cleber, Diaz, held in the dark. McLaren’s Lewis chances into actual goals though, dled by the Brazilian keeper. Niedzielan rushed through on Boguski (Małecki 73), Can- Hamilton now leads the overall and in the 33rd minute the light- goal, only to be denied by a last- toro, Sobolewski, Zieńczuk, standings with 84 points, in front ning fast Aaron Lennon ran at Spurs came out strongly in the ditch tackle from Woodgate. Jirsák (Łobodziński 61), Brożek of Ferrari’s Felipe Massa with 77 the Wisła defence from the left, second half, seeking to recapture (Niedzielan 79) and Robert Kubica of BMW with squaring the ball to David Bent- their authority by harassing Wisła Despite the loss, Wisła’s brave 64. There are three races to go in ley, who opened the scoring with at every opportunity, and Pawełek performance against a superior Goals: Jirsák 34 the 2008 F1 world championship, a swift left foot strike that gave was again called into action when Tottenham outfit puts them in which will be held in Japan, China Pawełek no chance. he tipped over a fierce 15 metre good stead to pull off an upset Yellow Card: Sobolewski, and Brazil. strike by Bentley. when the sides meet again in Kra- Małecki www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 15 Culture

The Future Face of Krakow CULTURE IN BRIEF Car Keys to Another Dimension

Nick Hodge looks at new buildings on the Krakow horizon The family of the late writer Stanisław Lem have sold his ca- nary-coloured car in a bid to raise money for charity.

Lem, often cited as the great- est science fiction author of his generation (although he himself was loathe to be pigeon-holed), is best known for works such as Solaris and The Cyberiad.

The car – a 1981 Mercedes saloon – fetched a hefty 50,211 złoty and was bought by Geko-Kart, a firm that makes cardboard boxes. The money will go to the children’s charity Mam Marzenie (“I have a dream”).

Lem originally bought the car in West Berlin shortly after martial law was declared. He later used the automobile to smuggle banned literature into Poland, along with prized household amenities such as loo-roll. As of yet it is uncon- firmed whether there is a secret button that transports passengers to a parallel world.

Above: The winning design in the competition for a new sports and entertainment hall. Architect: Piotr Łabowicz

ip design magazine Wall- Although it’s heartening that maga- Tricks at the Oscars paper turned its attention zines (and architects such as Libe- to Poland in its September skind, who himself has Polish roots) The Polish Film Institute has Hissue. Whilst enthusing are showing an interest in the Polish selected its candidate for the about the country as a dynamic place scene, the Krakow Post feels that Wall- 2009 Academy Awards. Sztuczki for new development, the monthly paper’s overview sold the Poles short. (Tricks) tells the tale of Stefek, was less effusive about home-grown Bearing this in mind, we thought it a young boy who tries to track architects. “Local talent is sparse,” only sporting to publish some of our down his absent father. However, the magazine postulated, “and until own picks of new projects in Poland. as it turns out, Stefek’s efforts to recently, known more for its technical These buildings, chosen solely from reunite his family – by a series of capabilities than its creativity.” within Krakow, are naturally just the tricks – land him with much more Above: Register Office Building by Michał Szymanowski Studio 5 tip of the iceberg (further afield, we than he’d bargained for. The author of the article went on to wax might mention APA Kuryłowicz As- lyrical about a number of international soc., Bulanda & Mucha, KWK Promes, Sztuczki is the second feature architects building in Poland, including to name but a few). Yet in spite of film by Andrzej Jakimowski, who uber-trendy figures such as Daniel Libe- the small context, we believe that won earlier acclaim with Zmruz skind and Zaha Hadid. In the accompa- the Krakow designs signal that the Oczy (Squint Your Eyes - 2002). nying list of “seven architects reshaping home-grown scene is in rude health. His latest movie has already the country,” only one Pole slipped onto Not least, they reveal that architects scooped awards at Venice, To- the roster (at the very bottom), in this from both the mature and the younger kyo, San Paulo and here on home case Wojciech Obtulowicz, creator of generations are setting the standards. soil at Gdynia, where it won the the Warsaw Uprising Museum. Tastes are sure to vary, but Krakow – Golden Lion. so long billed as a treasure trove of Wallpaper was a little more forthcom- historic architecture – will soon boast In 2008, Andrzej Wajda’s dra- ing on its website, where two Poles a parade of modern marvels of which matic film Katyń was the Polish were allowed to speak up for their it should be rightfully proud. selection for the Oscar but it peers. However, all in all, the Poles failed to bring home the gold, were rather pushed to the periphery. All projects were featured in the ex- losing out to Austrian entry The Singled out as especially beyond the hibition “Krakow 2012,” organised Counterfeiters. pale were those architects who came by SARP (The Association of Archi- of age prior to the collapse of the Iron tects of the Republic of Poland). With Curtain. In contrast, young bucks who many thanks to SARP (Krakow), Mr. had studied abroad were cited as the Konrad Glos and Dr. Marta Urbańska Above: An apartment house by Mariusz Twardowski and co. bright hope for Polish architecture. for their kind assistance. 16 Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com nnn CultureCulture Culture Lanckorona Frozen in Time

Unique 19th century wooden architecture, delightful craftwork and above all peace and quiet – the hillside village of Lanckorona is of the Małopolska region’s cultural gems.

Grażyna Zawada

riving about forty minutes southwest from Krakow will take you back in time. Lanckorona is a village lo- cated 500 metres above sea level, on a forested hill D at the foot of medieval castle ruins, and to get there you need to take the one and only minibus line from Krakow, or simply jump in a car. Until 1934 the place was technically a city, and it has kept an urban layout, with a unique, slop- ing market square and streets branching in four directions. The market square looks like a miniature wooden city, with a mosaic of very old and sometimes comically small timber houses, still inhabited to this day. In one of the streets you can find an old bakery famous for its delicious bread and pas- tries made in an original, ceiling-high furnace. What’s great is you can knock at the door at any time and the bread will be there for you.

Due to an extraordinary stillness and “nothing to do” atmo- sphere, Lanckorona is a mecca for artists, who come there to rest and look for inspiration, as well as Cracovians coming to enjoy a weekend rest. Fortunately, the village has not turned into a tourist-cramped wooden Disneyland. Lanckorona may disappoint those searching for sensational discoveries and thrills, but it opens up for people who humbly approach new destinations and want to take in a place just as it is.

“This is a place in which you cannot do anything by force; here you can improve what already exists by bringing it out to light and dusting off its natural beauty,” says Zofia Oszacka, the borough leader of Lanckorona district. Oszacka has done much for the region: during the past six years of her gover- nance, Lanckorona has won numerous awards for the best lo- Lanckorona today / photo Grażyna Zawada cal government in Małopolska area and for the best use of EU grants.

At first glance Lanckorona is a forgotten old village where nothing happens – but that’s all up to the visitor. It’s a poten- tially magical place, a background for romantic walks, long chats in a charming pavement cafe, learning handicraft or tak- ing part in Lanckorona’s festivals – like the Angels in Town Festival, where children dress up as angels and distribute Christmas greetings and best wishes among the townspeople. There is also Romantic Lanckorona, a festival for lovers, and the Midsummer’s Eve Fair to mention a few.

Today, due to the enormous commitment of the borough lead- ers, the whole district - composed of five villages in total - is flourishing with investments. New anti-slide road reinforce- ments, pavements, and a revamped sewage system are now being developed, making the place visibly modernised. With a cash injection from the EU, local Lanckorona associations have started small businesses such as a souvenir shop, a cafe and a tour service company to help promote their beloved home and facilitate a stay in Lanckorona for future newcomers.

Read more about Lanckorona at www.lanckorona.pl www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 17 Culture

PHOTO OF THE MONTH REEL LIFE Rok 1612 (The Year 1612) An Epic of Sorts THEME: AUTUMNAL Twelve months ago there were rumblings in the press that Russia was about to unleash a virulently anti-Polish film. The project, commissioned by the Kremlin, was to zoom in on the Polish-Muscovite War, a bloody conflict that culminated in Polish invaders being expelled from Moscow in the autumn of 1612. This war may seem like rather a long time ago now, but in 2005 the expulsion date was declared a new Russian national holiday. Polish heartthrob Michał Żebrowski was promptly branded a traitor for taking a part in the movie, and now, twelve months on, the end result is playing across Poland. Was it worth all the fuss? In a word, no. Never- theless, director Vladimir Khotinenko deserves credit for creating one of the most spectacularly silly films of recent times, replete with unicorns, talking fish and a hermit styled on Gandalf the Wizard. Rok 1612 starts promisingly enough with the Polish forces arrayed across a valley on the edge of Muscovy. An insolent serf has his tongue cut out, and the stage is set for a gritty historical drama in the style of La Reine Margot. But pretty soon the unicorns pop up (it’s as if the screenwriter sat down to write a slice of history then accidentally got side-tracked by Tolkien and his tricks). Into the melée steps runaway peasant Andrei (played by Russian Johnny Depp look-alike Pyotr Kislov), who quickly learns how to take on an invad- ing army single-handed. Everything is shot with great gusto, and costumes and settings are wonderful, but ultimately, Rok 1612 is unlikely to win any prizes for profundity. Still, viewers with a sense of humour may love this film.

In Russian with Polish subtitles. Nick Hodge SHELF IMPROVEMENT Hammer and Tickle by Ben Lewis Laughter Behind the Closed Curtain

Q: What stage comes between socialism and communism? October’s Photo of the Month was taken by Marcin J drysiak, www.marcinjedrysiak.com ę A: Alcoholism. Q: Why, despite all the shortages, was the toilet paper in East Germany always 2-ply? From October 2008, the Krakow Post together with the Academy of Photography begins its A: Because they had to send a copy of everything they did to Moscow. year-long photography contest. There are plenty more rib-ticklers in Ben Lewis’ new book, which styles itself Each month, the Krakow Post will choose one picture from amongst those sent in by readers to “ a history of Communism told through Communist Jokes.” And if you’ve ever appear as the “Photo of the Month.” The winner will receive a free consultation with a lecturer felt lost for words during a pub chat about the Soviet Bloc, here is a bottomless from the Academy of Photography. In October 2009, a Grand Prix winner will be chosen from source of anecdotes to make you seem like the brightest button at the bar. That amongst the previous 12 winners, who will receive a brand-new Nikon digital SLR camera, as said, the obvious danger in penning a book about Soviet jokes is in trivialising well as a free course from the Academy in either English or Polish. what was often no laughing matter. But the author doesn’t attempt to airbrush

the bitter realities. As Lewis reminds us, there were times when making a quip The goal of the contest is to entice all of Krakow’s residents – English-speaking as well – to use photography as a means of artistic expression. The additional chance to receive professional was enough to send the joker to a forced labour camp (as it was, even the gulags advice will no doubt be useful in further photographic experimentation. had their own brand of black humour). The author is genuinely fired up by his subject, and he travels far and wide in his quest for illicit humour. Along the way Please send all entries for November’s “Photo of the Month” to there are surreal encounters with Lech Wałęsa (who’s not in a joking mood) as [email protected] by October 24th. All submitted well as Jerzy Urban, notorious communist propaganda maestro. Lewis doesn’t photographs must be taken in Krakow. The theme is open. do justice to Pope John Paul II’s role in defeating communism, but all in all this is a refreshing roam through the realities of Soviet life. The best jokes beam out at us with their explosive, often heartbreaking grasp of the truth. Nick Hodge Language

Trips off the Tongue Is Polish really that difficult? Or is that just a myth, an over-used excuse touted by lazy language students? Let’s find out…Krakow Post introduces a series of brief lessons, which should prove useful when learning this beautiful language, as prepared by a native Polish linguist and teacher. Grażyna Zawada Q: Can you please explain the e.g. “nożyczki” (scissors), “spod- dzieci” (I see four kids). Because “plotkuję o dwojg-u ludziach” (I uses of different forms of num- nie” (trousers) or “drzwi” (door) this is accusative, the ending is am gossiping about two people). Confused by Polish gram- bers, and generally when each (that’s why sometimes Poles say the same as with a neutral noun, In the previous example, the first mar? Send your query type should be used? “the doors are open” when mean- e.g. “okn-o” (window). Collective is genitive and the second is da- to editor@krakowpost. ing one door). nouns are sometimes brushed off tive. You must also check if the com, and our Polish A: Collective numerals refer to a by less educated Poles due to their endings of numerals are the same linguist may answer your plural form of a mixed sex group Collectives inflect like singu- unusual structure, i.e. adding “g” as in singular neutral nouns, e.g. question in the next (men and women together), and lar neutral nouns and are eas- (or “gi”) in the instrumental to “jajko” (egg). young creatures (children, calves, ily recognized: the first two end the original root of the numer- edition of “Trips off the puppies), as well as nouns coming in “-oje” and the rest ends with al: “nie ma czworg-a szczeniąt” Tongue!” only in pairs (“pluralia tantum”), “-oro.” e.g. “widzę czwor-o (the four puppies are not here), 18 Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com nnn CultureCulture Culture

Live Review: Music Kraftwerk : Craft at Work Thymn Chase The Post interviews Unsound founder Mat Schulz

Robotic men / photo Duncan Rhodes

The big event this rather damp September was the 6th An- nual Sacrum Profanum Festival. The profile of this fairly Skream / photo Shaun Bloodworth new but groundbreaking festival is markedly different from most other such events that exist in Krakow. Sacrum Profanum pushes the boundaries and presents concerts Krakow Post: Where/when did you Hauschka’s group should be wonder- wildly enthusiastic that it is incredibly of contemporary and modern “classical music” as well get the idea for Unsound, and how did ful, a combination of electronic and inspiring. Most of the artists dealing as groundbreaking pop and even electronic music from you get other people interested in the classical music. I think that Colleen, with this kind of music don’t expect the 20th and 21st centuries. While this year’s festival idea so you could pull it off? Pan•American and Ben Frost, all play- to be swamped by fans requesting certainly had numerous concerts of note (Stockhausen in ing in St. Catherine’s church, will be autographs on scraps of paper, but the Schindler Factory was fairly life-changing), I will cut Mat Schulz: The idea started in 2003, extremely memorable as much for the that’s what happens there. In Septem- to the chase and get right to the legendary men-machines when there were really not many fes- beautiful venue as the sounds. The ber this year Unsound conducted a themselves - Kraftwerk! tivals presenting this kind of music in dubstep night should be great, as this week of workshops and collaborative Kraftwerk’s sold-out, three-night stand at the Arcelor Mit- Poland. We saw a gap, and tried to fill genre should really be heard in a club, projects in Minsk, bringing together tal Steelworks in Nowa Huta was as historic as it was epic. it. Although electronic, experimen- with a sub bass system that you can Belarus and Western European musi- One of the truly amazing things about this mysterious tal and club music have always been feel physically, not only in your ears. cians. The results will be released on band is that they appeal to so many seemingly disparate important in relation to the program, The Necks are an amazing band from a free online CD to be released by the generations of fans. While riding the courtesy bus from Unsound has always aimed to be di- Australia. I could keep going, but if I ~scape record label in Berlin. the gates of the Huta to the depths of the factory (of verse. From the very beginning, Un- do so I will probably recommend the course they couldn’t have chosen a normal venue), it was sound was also about trying to con- entire program. KP: I’ve heard rumours of a New York fascinating and almost beautiful to see ageing rockers nect East and West Europe, via music, edition – is Unsound planning to ex- standing next to conservative 50-somethings in suits who were in turn standing next to a couple of high school- sound cultures and related visual arts. KP: Any surprises in store for this pand globally? ers making out who were leaning on a 30-something This idea remains. year? journalist who was deep in discussion with a babcia in MS: The New York edition will take her seventies about what kind of music she was about KP: How is the list of performers de- MS: Unsound is all about trying to place in 2009 and will entail an ex- to hear. Few bands in the world can boast that kind of cided each year? surprise, but if I have to select some panded version of the Warhol and mu- demographic... particular acts, then I could start with sic programme, which will also fea- MS: We listen to a lot of new music, Fuck Buttons. They’ve got a strong ture at Unsound this year. The project And the music? Let me begin by saying that the progres- and read everything from magazines following in other countries, but not is supported by both the Krakow sive historical irony of a German band singing in Polish in like The Wire to blogs, searching for so much yet in Poland. They play and New York Goethe Institutes. The a Soviet-built iron works was enough alone to send shiv- ers down my spine. The fact that the band was Kraftwerk the latest tendencies in music. Then a mix of noise, tribal rhythms and screening of Warhol’s Empire will take turned those shivers into electronic shockwaves that we try to make interesting connec- beats. I also think that Ben Frost may place in both Krakow and New York, rumbled through my lower intestines from the plethora tions between different genres. This cause a bit of a sensation. I saw his an 8-hour film that will have a live of precision crafted synthesized beats and visual treats. means that we can put, for example, show in Montreal at MUTEK festival, soundtrack played by the Berlin band They performed a blinding and stunning 2 hour set which club music in the same program as and it completely knocked me out. It Groupshow. It’s a free event in Krakow included most of their global hits spanning their almost work that could be described as post- was a mix of intricate, ambient elec- at Unsound, on the 18th of October, in 40 year career. The quartet was as stoic as ever, and each classical. We also try to be as rigorous tronics and often heavily distorted the Galicia Jewish Museum. member dutifully manned their computer battle station - as possible with the programme, so guitar. Considering this concert will respectively pointing, clicking, twisting and playing their that while it contains some unexpect- take place in a gothic church, the im- KP: Have any Polish artists really im- aging hearts out. ed elements and combinations it still pact should be even more powerful. pressed at Unsound? As boring as it may seem to watch ageing German men makes sense, according to its various If you’re not familiar with the more ostensibly play solitaire for two hours, there was some- parts, and overall. We take risks, se- cutting edge forms of club music, MS: I’m a big fan of Jacek Sienkiewicz, thing enticing and intriguing about their stage candour lecting artists that may not be so well then you should also head to Manggha who I think is Poland’s best producer - almost a game to try and figure out who was making known here in Poland, which I hope on October 24th for Bruno Pronsato, of minimal club music, and definitely what bleeps and which blurps when. The visual graphics makes our festival unique. Thomas Melchior, The Sight Below and has his own voice. He’ll also play this were of course much more of the spectacle then the band others. This is really a world-class line year, on the 24th in Manggha. I love themselves and they did not disappoint. The sound in the KP: Who are you looking forward to up that may make you rethink precon- Mitch & Mitch, especially live. The factory was truly amazing and the entire building rattled seeing the most at this year’s edition? ceptions you have about club music. It Complainer is always good fun. The VJ whenever they engaged the turbo uber bass. They treated the throbbing crowd (and seated audience) to two encores would draw a huge crowd in Berlin or team Pussy Crew is also great. There’s - the first of which was performed by their robot look- MS: Unsound this year has really London, for example. a lot of excellent Polish music. This alike buddies (although the resemblance is a bit strained grown, due to some strong financial year, I’m really looking forward to since two of the members are no longer with the group support from the Krakow council. This KP: How does the Krakow edition dif- seeing Małe Instrumenty perform on and the other two have aged severely since the robots means that there are so many great fer from other cities, such as Lviv? the 21st; they usually use toys and were completed in the early 70s), and the second encore artists that it’s hard to pick one act. gadgets to create their music, but this was performed by them but in their neon striped spandex I’m really looking forward to the War- MS: Well, we haven’t done that much time will also play on huge self-made matrix suits. hol Series, showcasing early Warhol in Lviv yet. The main Unsound city instruments. It should be a lot of fun. films with live music. We’ve wanted outside Krakow is in Minsk, Belarus. I can honestly say the experience was once in a lifetime For more, visit >> and there is no question that Kraftwerk have left their to invite Max Richter for a long time, It’s a place that is extremely isolat- www.krakowpost.com mark on Krakow for a long time to come. and his show on the same night as ed, and as a result audiences are so www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 19 Extra Post

Official Distributors MARKET SHOP English , German, Spanish, Russian For sale: MacBook 2.4 GHz Companies & Restauracja Pod literature, dictionaries, textbooks. We take spe- Business Centres Hon. Norwegian Dom Podroznika Krzyzykiem Express Holiday Inn White MacBook 2.4GHz/160GB/2Gb cial orders for books, ELT & Consulate ul. Koletek 7 Rynek Główny 39 ul. Opolska 14 memory - practically new, barely used, British-Polish ul. Mazowiecka 25 academic materials. We mail orders. The oldest Chamber of Drink Bar “Vis a Vis” Ristorante Da Pietro Flamingo Hostel purchased from US in summer 2008. Commerce Airlines & Travel Rynek Główny 29 Rynek Główny 17 ul. Szewska 4 language bookshop in Kraków will satisfy all Please contact superherogrl01@hotmail. your needs. Please drop in (10a.m.-6p.m.) or visit British Petroleum British Airways Dynia Rooster Freedom Hostel com for more info/price. Polska ul. Krupnicza 20 ul. Mikołajska 5 ul. Pomorska 2 our website. Enjoy a lovely view of our garden. ul. Jasnogórska 1 Brussels Airlines You can also park your bike and pram here. Edo Sushi Bar Ross Amores Cafe Giraffe Hostel For Sale: Books Buma Square Crusing Krakow ul. Bożego Ciała 3 Rynek Główny 15 ul. Krowoderska 31 Interbook, Kraków, u.l Karmelicka 27 Office Building ul. Basztowa 17 40 English books for sale.Biography, www.interbook.com.pl ul. Wadowicka 6 Faust Klub Sakana Good Bye Lenin history, film, Booker Prize winners etc. El Al Airlines Rynek Główny 6 ul. Sławkowska 5-7 Hostel Energoprojekt- ul. B. Joselewicza 23 Hardback and paperback.Will accept Krakow SA Krakow Balice In- Galeria Kazimierz Showtime EMPLOYMENT ul. Mazowiecka 21 ternational Airport ul. Podgórska 34 Rynek Główny 28 Grand Hotel one quarter of the retail price for a ul. Sławkowska 5/7 quick sale. Anyone interested telephone Sales Superstar Wanted Euromarket Office Lufthansa Airlines Globetroter Siesta Cafe Center pl. Szczepański 7/15 ul. Stolarska 6 Hostel Hocus Pocus Bob on 506520153. Are you an energetic and self-motivated ul. Jasnogórska 1 Seekrakow ul. Floriańska 28 ul. Floriańska 6 Grill 15/16 Someplace Else sales superstar? Krakow Post is looking IBM BTO Rynek Główny 16 ul. Powisle 7 Holiday Inn For sale: paintings for your home for professional sales people to join ul. Armii Krajowej 18 Tourist Information ul. Wielopole 4 www.graphicstuart.com Office Herbaciarnia Square Pub it’s rapidly expanding team. You’ll be International Paper ul. św. Jana 2 ul. Gołębia 1 ul. Grodzka 51 Hotel Amadeus responsible for building new client rela- Polska ul. Mikołajska 20 For sale: Double bed ul. Lubicz 23 Bars & Il Calzone Srodziemie tionships as well as maintaining current Restaurants ul. Starowiślna 15a pl. Wszystkich Sw. 8 Hotel Copernicus Lightly used Ikea double bed. ones. If you’re fluent in Polish and want Krakow Tech Park ul. Kanonicza 16 Lubicz Office Alchemia Inter Book Stalowie Magnolie 160x200cm Anes frame with Sultan a new challenge, then send your CV with Building ul. Estery 5 ul. Karmelicka 27/1 ul. Sw. Jana 15 Hotel Eden Hogbo mattress included. Stylish and a covering letter to Michal McSperrin- ul. Lubicz 23 ul. Ciemna 15 Any Time Sandwich Bar Ipanema Szabla i Szklanka ridiculously comfortable! Write for de- Kossak at: [email protected] Symposium Craco- ul. Estery 16 ul. św. Tomasza 28 ul. Poselska 24 Hotel Floryan tails: [email protected] viense ul. Floriańska 38 ul. Krupnicza 3 Aqua e Vino Irish Arms Pub Szara Kamienica ul. Wiślna 5/10 ul. Poselska 18 Rynek Glowny 6 Hotel Grodek DIRECTORY Universities & ul. Na Grodku 4 Schools Arka Noego Irish Mbassy Szara na Kazimierzu 24-HOUR POLICE STATION ul. Szeroka 2 ul. Stolarska 3 ul. Szeroka 39 Hotel Major PERSONALS RYNEK G WNY 29 Accent Language ul. Gdyńska 6 Friendship Train ŁÓ School Art Club Cieplarnia Karczma Tajemniczy Ogrod tel: 012 6157317 ul. Lea 123 ul. Bracka 15 “Podworko Maryny” ul. Bratska 3/5 Hotel Pod Roza 56 year old, single, English Polish resi- Rynek Główny 9 ul. Floriańska 14 dent seeks unattached lady for social Bell Language Bagel Mama Tesoro del Mar 24-HOUR MEDICAL School ul. Podbrzezie 2 Klub Internetowy ul. Józefa 6 Hotel Pod outings etc. Telephone: (0) 504528918 ul. Michałowskiego 4 Planet Wawelem INFORMATION Balaton Rynek Główny 24 TramBar pl. na Groblach 22 British Interna- ul. Grodzka 37 ul. Stolarska 11 RYNEK GŁÓWNY 29 tional School of Lemonday Hotel Rubenstein tel: 012 6612240 Krakow Baraka pl. Na Groblach 22 Trattoria de Cesare ul. Szeroka 12 ul. Smolensk 25 pl. Nowy 7 ul. Krupnicza 6 RECREATION Le Scandale Hotel Senacki 24-HOUR EMERGENCY Empik Language Baroque pl. Nowy 9 Tribeca Coffee ul. Grodzka 51 Kung Fu Classes School ul. św. Jana 16 Rynek Główny 27 SERVICE Learn authentic chinese WingTsun Rynek Główny 5 Les Couleurs Hotel Stary ul. Lazarza 14 Bohemia ul. Estery 10 Trzy BIS ul. Szczepańska 5 kung-fu in English, regardless of age, Gzegrzólka ul. Gołębia 2 ul. Krowoderska 70 tel: 012 4222999 ul. św. Tomasza 1 Lulu living Hotel Wentzl gender or fitness level. Visit our web- Boogie Cafe ul.Dajwór 10 B Trzy Papryczki Rynek Główny 19 site at: www.wingtsunkrakow.pl or call Maly Rynek ul. Szpitalna 9 ul. Poselska 17 TOURIST INFORMATION Language School M Club Hotel Wit Stwosz Graham on 507122311. Mały Rynek 3 Boom Bar Rush Klub ul. Tomasza 11a Trzy Rybki Restaurant ul. Mikołajska 28 Ratusz tower, Rynek Glowny ul. Gołębia 6 ul. Szczepańska 5 tel: 012 4337310 Open Mind Massolit Books & Hotel PTTK Wyspianski ul. Bracka 1a/1 Budda Bar Cafe Vesuvio ul. Westerplatte 15 Rynek Główny 6 ul. Felicjanek 4/2 ul. Floriańska 38 HOUSING Pedagogical Ibis Krakow Centrum TRAIN INFO (PKP) in English University Bull Pub Mechanoff Wedel Pijalnia ul. Syrokomli 2 tel: 9436 of Krakow ul. Mikołajska 2 ul. Estery 8 Czekolady Room in Kazimierz ul. Karmelicka 41 Rynek Główny 46 Momotown Hostel Very large room in chaotic student flat www.rozklad.pkp.pl Bunkier Sztuki Metropolitan ul. Miodowa 28 Poliglota Language Pl. Szczepański 3 ul. Sławkowska 3 Wentzl Restaurant share in Kazimierz ul. Skaleczna. School Rynek Główny 19 Nathan’s Villa Hostel Available in about a month. 800 zl. plus BUS INFO (PKS) Pl. Szczepanski 8 Cafe Camelot Miyako Sushi ul. Agnieszki 1 tel: 9316 ul. Tomasza 17 Rynek Główny 19 Wierzynek Restaurant electricity bills. Would suite couple. Politechnika Rynek Główny 15 Novotel Krakow Email to: Krakowska Cafe Golebia 3 Mleczarnia Bronowice EMERGENCY NUMBERS ul. Gołębia 3 ul. Meiselsa 20 Wisniowy Sad al. Armii Krajowej 11 [email protected] Prolog Language ul. Grodzka 33 tel: 997 Police School Cafe Manekin Moliere Cafe Novotel Krakow ul. Bronowicka 37 ul. św. Tomasza 25 ul. Szewska 4 Wodka Bar Centrum tel: 998 Fire ul. Mikołajska ul. T. Kościuszki 5 tel: 999 Ambulance 1. International Cafe Philo Nandu Internet Cafe SERVICES Training Center ul. św. Tomasza 30 ul. Wiślna 6 Youmiko Sushi Orbis Cracovia “CzyZyny” ul. Szczepańska 7 al. F. Focha 1 Will Think for Drink! SEND US YOUR CLASSIFIEDS 2. Centrum Cafe Sukiennice Nic Nowego “Sokrates” Rynek Główny 1/3 ul. Krzyża 15 Zblizenia Orbis Francuski Quality proofreading service by a na- Need to get a message across? Look- pl. Nowy 8 ul. Pijarska 13 tive English speaker – I proofread, you ing for love? Have a TV to sell or a Jagiellonian University: Cafe Zakatek Nikita Bar ul. Grodzka 2 ul. Sławkowska 26 Hotels, Hostels & Radisson SAS pay me in booze. Email to get my rates: puppy to give away? Contact us for 1. Campus Guest Rooms ul. Straszewskiego 17 more details: 2. Administration Coffeina Internet Nowa Prowincja [email protected] Building Cafe ul. Bracka 3 Abella Guest Rooms Sheraton Hotel [email protected] 3. Dom Gościnny Rynek Główny 23/3 ul. Długa 48 ul. Powiśle 7 “Przegorzaly” Nowy Kuzyn 4. Institute of Camera Cafe Mały Rynek 4 Affinity Flats Tango House B&B European Studies ul. Wiślna 5 ul. Karmelicka 7 ul. Szpitalna 4 5. Students Hostel Paparazzi Bar #RACOW ,IFE#Xdb "ERLIN ,IFE#Xdb Casa della Pizza ul. Mikołajska Andel’s Hotel Tournet Guest Rooms Tischner European Mały Rynek 2 ul. Pawia 3 ul. Miodowa 7 University Piano Rouge ul. Westerplatte 11 Cherubino Rynek Główny 46 Angel House Trzy Kafki ul. św. Tomasza 15 ul. Blich 6 al. Słowackiego 29 WANTED: AGH Pod Aniolami Technical University CK Browar Pub ul. Grodzka 35 Apple Pie Apartments Trzy Kafki Premium BRILLIANT WRITERS! al. Mickiewicza 30 ul. Podwale 6/7 ul. Wielopole 18 ul. Dolnych Młynów 9 Pod Sloncem University of Club Clu Rynek Główny 43 ARS Hostel Zodiakus Hostel Eastern Europe’s leading internet and print guides is looking for Economics ul. Szeroka 10 ul. Koletek 7 ul. Augustiańska 4 outstanding writers to join its team! Do you have what it takes? ul. Rakowiecka 27 Property Krakow Club Pod Jaszczurami ul. Cybulskiego 2 Atlantis Hostel Tutti Frutti Hostel Rynek Główny 8 ul. Dietla 58 ul. Floriańska 29 Are you intelligent, witty, love travelling and know how to enthuse others with your Consulates Prowincja writing style? Do you know Eastern European Cities and would like to get to know them better? Corleone ul. Bracka 3/5 Blue Bells Apartments Cultural Centres American ul. Poselska 19 ul. Starowiślna 22 Are you up to the challenge of working with a dynamic writing team producing Consulate Punkt Bunkier Sztuki ul. Stolarska 9 Cul-de-Sac ul. Sławkowska 12 Campanile Pl. Szczepański 3 travel guides that are read by millions? We are looking for you! ul. Na Grodku 4 ul. św. Tomasza 34 Austrian Consulate Re Kijow Centre Your job will include extensive travel writing for Cracow Life and our other city travel sites, ul. Krupnicza 42 Cyrano de Bergerac ul. Krzyża 4 City Hostel ul. Krasińskiego 34 ul. Slawkowska 26 ul. Krzyża 21 as well as writing and proof reading for our other partner publications. German Consulate Red Rubin Kino Pod Baranami ul. Stolarska 7 Czekolada ul. Grodzka 25 Deco Hostel Rynek Główny 27 Vacancies are currently available in Cracow, Warsaw and Berlin. ul. Bracka 4 ul. Mazowiecka 3a Hon. British Restauracja Hawelka Princes Czartoryski For more info send your CV, a covering letter (in English) and a short sample of your Consulate Del Papa Ristorante Rynek Główny 34 Dizzy Daisy Hostels Museum ul. św. Anny ul. św. Tomasza 6 ul. Pędzichów 9 ul. Pijarska 8 writing style to: [email protected] an Union Bruno Pronsato / photograph courtesy of unsound.pl Citylife un krakow POST Cracow-life.com CkrakowityPOST lifeCracow-life.com so un

> posted Concerts, exhibitions & d parties /CL 7, 8, 9, 10

> spotlight Amos Poe festivalAndrew Pekler Unsound Festival Autistic Daughters previewed Banabila / Zenial /CL 6 Ben Frost Benga Boxcutter Bruno Pronsato bshosa (detroitZDRoJ) > reviews Colleen dOP Drop In, Fork Out, Fuck Buttons Get Served Galoppierende Zuversicht /CL 3, 5 Groupshow Hanno Leichtmann Hauschka Jacek Sienkiewicz Presents Recognition Jan Jelinek > by night Jorge Haro Jørgen Knudsen Notes From the Kaspar Koenig & Simon Berz Underground Lillevan /CL 2 Mark Templeton Max Richter Małe Instrumenty Melchior Productions Michael Nyman Németh / Hess / Siewert Nôze nsi. Pan American Pinch Skream The Necks The Sight Below Tibor Holoda Xiu Xiu CL2 Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com

byNightlife night & Dining

40 złoty ticket charge, especially as the predictably I made all the same drunken boat aspect of the party was due to end mistakes I make every week, followed in Notes From the at 11 pm, but it turned out to be money the morning by a lengthy spell of self- well spent and with three free drinks into loathing. Chastened by the night before, the bargain the economist in me was suit- Saturday was a sober affair at Bonton’s, ably appeased. A warm breeze blowing which despite attracting all the right Underground off the Wisła cooled the up-for-it crowd people failed to convince me that I will as they stomped to some meaty elec- be missing much in London. tro sounds that regulars of Błędne Koło Conceived under the silvery light of a full moon party in Ko Pha Ngan, raised will be familiar with, whilst enormous Finally, on the 23rd, came the party we’d by lotus-eating hippies in Ibiza and suckled on the milk of Eric Morillo’s mix- queues to the toilets were circumvented all been waiting for, for various rea- by balancing on a very narrow ledge and sons… Slinky’s farewell bash at Masada. ing nipple, Krakow Post proudly presents their nightlife correspondent… the splashing into the river. Easier for guys Whether the manifold attendees were smooth, and ever-so-slightly-slippery, Slinky. than girls, and possibly why one of my celebrating or mourning my departure female friends (who shall remain name- is a question I didn’t dare ask, but the It seems there aren’t as many drunken As it transpires, when I landed at Gat- less) ended up taking an ill-timed bath. important thing is they made me look perverts in Krakow as the average night wick, both a literal and metaphorical popular. No mean feat in the vast space out in Piękny Pies would suggest, given bump back to earth occurred. My mojo The following weekend saw the back-to- of this hip new venue in Kazimierz. The the lack of volunteers hammering on our was miraculously sucked out of me, in back openings of Circus and Bonton Club. enigmatic DJ Drift kicked off proceedings editor’s inbox to take over my post. Or much the same way that suntans disap- They couldn’t be more different. Circus (just who is he?), whilst Mehow attracted maybe there are, but they’re all scared pear the moment you make it through is a vast space just begging to be filled the first feet onto the dancefloor, sizing of being chemically castrated by Donald passport control. In this city of twelve with students more concerned about get- up the tastes of a diverse crowd. Fluow- Tusk…? I, however, safe in the sanctu- million people I walk around completely ting their rocks off than their groove on, ankaz and Minimal Jan weren’t to be out- ary of England’s green and pleasant anonymous, ignored by a staggering six leaving me ruing my ill-timed departure. done, and the party reached full swing at land, have no qualms about thrusting million women, my sexual presence re- C’est la życie. Their launch party was way past midnight as various stragglers my column upon the good citizens of duced to parity with the paperboy and low-key but suitably debauched, and it turned up to bolster the numbers. And Krakow for one final explosive outing. flabby middle-aged accountants. In fact was I, surprisingly, who was left to look so it just remains to say thanks to all in- Welcome to Notes From The London Un- the only reaction to my slinking along the after my colleague’s drunk family friend volved in the organisation, thanks to all derground… streets of London has been the odd sur- when she overdosed on tatanka. Unfor- who came, thanks for the presents and a reptitious glance from the pretty boys of tunately, far from being allowed to take special thanks to Stu who lent me his de- London. The big smoke. The city you can Soho (I can’t tell you how grateful I was!). advantage of the situation, I practically odorant (I was experiencing some decid- never tire of (allegedly). The most cosmo- As for girls: cuties avoid eye contact on had to fireman-lift her off the dancefloor edly unslinky perspiration issues). politan and happening metropolis on the the elevators, shop attendants ignore my after she collapsed the moment she at- planet. It’s quite a shock to the system attempts to flirt with them, waitresses tempted to stand up unaided. Once the Until we meet again, may the spirit of I can tell you. F@ck the language, food, take my order without ado, barflies brush over-lubricated lady had been packed off Slinky be with you always… television, ethnic diversity, pace of life, me off with their body language. A far to bed, it was all over to Kitsch, where the customs and mannerisms... I’m talk- cry from Poland! Whatever happened to ing of course about the women. Yes, this every other passerby shooting me load- capital I call home has proved something ed flirtatious glances, to shop attendants of a reality check for this shrimp-sized who would coyly slip me love notes with Casanova, after enjoying the sort of fe- their phone number, to waitresses who male attention usually reserved for the wanted to party with me at the end of charismatic, good-looking or filthy rich. their shift and to lost creatures of the These are clearly overrated qualities night rubbing themselves up against me from a Polish female perspective. In fact, in the hope I would notice them? Noth- with the perspicacity of hindsight, I can ing! Not one teenager has come up to me see that whilst I spent most of the previ- to tell me how cute I am, no fitties have ous three years bemoaning Polish girls’ pushed me into a public toilet for some awful taste in men, I probably should tonsil tennis and not a single mysteri- have been thanking the Lord for his gen- ous stranger has followed me all the way erous oversight. It’s only now when I home for some pasta and petting. Ok, so consider those curious fellows who you it’s only been four days, but still. see walking around on the Rynek, with their schoolboy haircuts, ill-fitting High But enough of this depressing talk. Let Street clothes, and goofy mannerisms, me cast my mind back to those last au- standing next to a stunning brunette with tumnal weeks in Krakow (already taking cycki like watermelons and a dupeczka on a warm and nostalgic glow in the ro- you could crack nuts with - dressed like mantic realms of my memory), and du- by night photo of the month she’s on her way to present Best Foreign tifully give you the rundown of Septem- Feature Film at the Oscars - that I can see ber’s sexiest soirées…. Totally Twisted “Beauty and the Beats ” a clear reflection of myself. I was not in rounded off the summer season on the DJ Line @ Frantic fact the victim of Poland’s female popu- 7th with another boat party, and, after lation’s bad taste in mating partners; I I failed to get on board for the last edi- Supplied by mynight.pl, was one of the main beneficiaries! tion, I was extra careful to arrive on time. the top website for clubbing photos. I was more than a little cynical about the www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 CL3 DROP IN GET SERVED

For October’s Get Served, Krakow Post’s “Bar Person of the Month” jury searched high and low in the cold autumn rain for the next individual who’s leading the fight for top service. Metropolitan’s head barman, Paweł Okuniewicz, wowed our judges with his cheerful man- ner and wide knowledge of all things alcohol related. Whether it be a fine wine to go with your meal or a cocktail at the bar, this man delivers something special at this popular restaurant/bar. Michał Szatkowski posed the questions armed with the obligatory bottle of bubbly...

Q: What do you do when you’re not working? A: I’ve got quite a few hobbies. I collect coins from the Ukraine, and travel there quite a bit. I also enjoy playing chess.

Circus Q: Are you any good at chess? ul. Starowiślna 16 A: We have a chess board here, I’ll give you a game and show you! Q: What’s the best thing about your job? Maybe it was because the school term hadn’t started yet, but the grand opening of the much-awaited A: I get to experiment with new drinks, mixing different flavours. Circus Klub was not the rocket up the city’s backside it could have been. Instead it was a rau- cous party of friends and cognoscenti who were dwarfed by the huge size of this former cinema Q: What’s the worst thing about your job? and its enormous dancefloor - the biggest in Krakow. But despite this slow start, far from fearing A: I sometimes feel like a priest or lawyer because people come to the bar and I overhear for Circus’ future, it seems safe to predict big things ahead. Why? Because unlike 90 percent some interesting stories, and I can’t tell anyone about them! of new venues which open in Krakow, Circus actually offers the city’s party-goers something Q: Have you ever had any famous clients here? different to their existing options. Instead of another cramped cellar decked out with expen- A: Yeah, we’ve had quite a few here. Probably the most famous would be Andrzej Wajda, sive baubles, Circus is a stripped-back affair which capitalises on its former incarnation as a the Oscar-winning film director who made the film Katyń. movie theatre. The seats have been ripped out of the auditorium to create a vast space for drink-fuelled dancing and debauchery, a huge screen flashes gargantuan visuals as a backdrop Q: What’s your dream job? to the pandemonium, whilst upstairs punters will find a second bar full of ceramic animals for A: I’d like to work as a negotiator for big international companies. that added cult factor. In short, Circus is the perfect place for students to spend their parents’ hard-earned cash on piwo and grope each other to the latest commercial cheese and retro hits. Q: What’s the best cure for a hang-over? Not one for the sophisticated party-goer, but for once a club owner seems to have realised that A: A drink called the “Liza Minnelli.” It’s 2ml olive oil, 40ml tomato juice, an egg yolk and the Mercedes-driving dance music-loving “elite” are far outnumbered by hormonally-charged a shot of pepper vodka. It tastes disgusting but is a great cure! academics. Duncan Rhodes Q: What’s the best thing about Krakow in the autumn? A: We have the best nightclubs in Poland, and when all the students are back in the city DROP IN the atmosphere in them is great! Q: What would you recommend I try here at Metropolitan? A: We have a great caesar salad here, and to drink I’d recommend the espresso martini, or the cucumber martini for something more unusual. Bonton Plac Dominikański 4

There’s something suspicious about the concept of a club/restaurant. Is it primarily a nightclub or is it more of a restaurant? Can one set of owners realistically expect me to believe they are both experts of gastronomy and of music and nightlife trends? Moreover, if I’m going for a romantic meal do I want a load of drunkards raising merry havoc downstairs? And if I’m going downstairs to get drunk and raise merry havoc do I want to deal with the disapproving look of prudish diners on my way to the dancefloor? Whether the owners of Bonton have the answers to these questions remains to be seen. They’ve created a good-looking, if not exactly unique, venue, and they certainly managed to attract a fashionable and decent-sized crowd to their opening party in September, inviting hip UK singer Dani Siciliano to get the party started. How- ever, with Krakow’s clubbers desperate to experience anything different, pretty much any new place can be guaranteed a good opening night - so long as they remember to post the event on Mynight.pl and Last.fm. All-in-all an auspicious beginning, but, as with so many new venues, I sense a happy ending is far from guaranteed.

Paweł Okuniewicz, October’s bar person of the month Duncan Rhodes

www.restauracja-amadeus.pl CL4 Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 ADVERTISEMENTS www.krakowpost.com

restaurant

delicious hungarian cuisine

ul. Grodzka 37, Kraków tel./fax: (0) 12 422 04 69 www.balaton.krakow.pl

Restaurant with unique temperament and Cracow atmosphere ! Famous restaurant on the “King’s Road” from Wawel Castle to Main Square. You can eat your dinner in one of the antique carriages… Traditional old polish cuisine using old recipes and charred beech wood grill. Dishes prepared over a beech wood grill using old polish and Italian recipes. (Restauracja z atmosferą średniowiecznego Krakowa, (To restauracja z włoskim temperamentem i krakowską atmosferą! na „Drodze Królewskiej” z Wawelu do Rynku Głównego. Można tu zjeść kolację w jednej z karet, wśród uskrzydlonej łodzi Zapraszamy w kulinarną „podróż” do staropolskich smaków. rybackiej i góralskich sań. Ogródek z fontanną na dziedzińcu.) Kuchnia polska, włoskie pasty…i tiramisu!) Courtyard garden and medieval atmosphere. “Cherubino” ul.św.Tomasza 15, Krakow, tel. 012/4294007, ul.Grodzka 35, Kraków, tel. 012/4213999, tel./fax. 012/4294147 tel./fax. 012/4302113 www.cherubino.pl www.podaniolami.pl www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 CL5

FORK OUT

Milk&Co. Radisson SAS, Straszewskiego 17, (0) 12 618 88 88 Nestled in one of the calmest corners of the Old Town, the Radisson SAS is just a few steps away Miód Malina from Wawel castle and right across the street from the Krakow Philharmonic. Among the dining op- ul. Grodzka 40, (0) 12 430 04 11 tions at the five star hotel is Milk&Co, an upscale yet informal restaurant serving traditional regional dishes from Krakow and Małopolska. In October and November, Milk&Co is trying something different Located on the Royal Route along Grodzka Street, Miód Malina was guaranteed plenty of atten- by introducing some Asian flavors through their Taste Thai event. Chef Praphot Bunlua has brought tion from the start. But while many other establishments have struggled to regularly attract Thailand’s tropical beaches to our hitherto damp and dreary autumn in the form of sticky jasmine the stomachs of curious passers-by, Miód Malina has managed to become a true favourite of rice, spicy curry, and crunchy stalks of lemongrass. Mirroring its national religion of Buddhism, the both visitors and locals. best Thai food displays a careful equilibrium with searing hot curries balanced with coconut milk and kaffir lime leaves. At Milk&Co you’ll be able to find Thailand’s most famous dishes including pad thai Krakow certainly has no shortage of rustic-looking restaurants serving traditional food, but the (Thai fried noodles), tom khaa gai (hot and sweet chicken soup with coconut milk), and kaeng kari attempts are often clumsy and old-fashioned. Here in Miód Malina the atmosphere is warm, in- kai (green curry chicken). In Thailand meals are unlikely to be served in courses, so the Milk&Co Thai viting, and at just the right level of elegance and sophistication. Contrasting the city-wide “CK Buffet is an authentic and casual approach to this varied cuisine. The buffet is served Thursdays to Browar Conundrum” of serving delicious food/drink in gorgeous surroundings and then mysteri- Saturdays from 6 to 11 pm and costs 120 złotys per person, which includes wine. An à la carte menu ously pumping the space full of pop and techno, Miód Malina has really got it on the mark with is also available. Opportunities to sample the flavours of Southeast Asia in Krakow are few and far a mix of European folk complementing the mood. between, so curious eaters are definitely encouraged to jump on this occasion!

Dana Dramowicz On to the food; there is really very little to complain about and actually quite a lot to praise, with Miód Malina offering the ultimate accessible menu at prices that certainly won’t break the bank. Traditional Polish must-haves are served alongside Italian staples, meaning practi- cally every picky eater can leave this place completely satisfied. Behind the bar is a wood- burning oven, multi-tasking away at baking the perfect pizza crust or crisping up a plate of pierogi (no deep-frying here!). Other highlights include an incredible pasta with chicken, pear and almonds, a mouth-watering steak with cranberry sauce, horseradish, and oscypek (smoked sheep’s cheese), and delicious racuchy (apple pancakes) with caramel and vanilla sauce. Apart from the food, the service at Miód Malina is impeccable and the owners must be doing some- thing right as after almost two years, I still see the same faces zipping around the place, and amazingly, still smiling. There’s something comforting knowing that these 20-somethings have decided to stay here in the Old Town of Krakow rather than escaping off to Dublin or London like their friends. Polskie Jadło The success of Miód Malina has garnered plenty of attention from guide books, so in the peak ul. Św. Tomasza 8, (0) 12 428 00 22 tourist season, expect this place to be packed full in the evenings. Even in the off season res- As a top tourist destination for hardcore traditional Polish food, Polskie Jadło has been resting com- ervations are encouraged. The only downfall here is that with almost every diner around you a fortably on its laurels for quite some time. Where else do you get a shock introduction into the oft tourist speaking loudly in English and genuinely trying to pronounce difficult Polish words (bless uncomfortable world of Polish cuisine in the form of a complimentary smalec (dry rendered pork lard) ‘em), things can get a little distracting. My suggestion is to come here for a late lunch or early starter? An affordable lunch menu manages to draw in locals as well for such yummy treats as spinach dinner in the afternoon to experience Miód Malina at its calmest hour and still be able to enjoy and bacon naleśniki (Polish crêpes) and placki ziemniaczane (potato pancakes or latkes) with sour the great views in daylight onto the cobblestoned streets of Grodzka and Poselska. A must-taste cream. Let’s hope the recent downturn in Krakow’s tourism doesn’t dampen Polskie Jadło’s zest for for picky Cracovian foodies and curious weekend visitors alike. the fatty and delicious. Dana Dramowicz Dana Dramowicz

“…that honor goes to Cafe Camelot, which might just be my favorite cafe in the world (..go for apple pie)” David Streitfeld “The Washington Post Travel” Summer restaurant-boat located in the bend of the Vistula River at the foot of the Wawel Castle. Coffee house – gallery with the most romantic summer garden in Cracow. Sitting on its upper deck, you will recall long-forgotten charms of life The magical atmosphere of that place and original interiors dating back on the Vistula River. to the XIII century. (Galeria – kawiarnia z wyjątkowym ogródkiem w Zaułku Niewiernego Tomasza. (Letnia restauracja na statku na Wiśle u stóp Wawelu. Jest miejscem spotkań niezwykłych ludzi, koncertów, kabaretów i recitali. Siedząc na górnym pokładzie odnajdą Państwo dawno zapomniane uroki życia W galerii na piętrze wydarzenia artystyczne i wystawy fotograficzne. nad Wisłą.) W piątki kabaret „Loch Camelot”)

Galar “Pod Aniołami” Zakole Wisły, On Fridays Loch Camelot Cabaret. Bulwary Wiślana vis a vis Hotelu Sheraton, Cafe Camelot” ul. św.Tomasza 17, Kraków, tel. 0691 44 04 03 tel.012/4210123 CL6 Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com

spotlightunsound festival

every day 18-25.10 thurs. 23.10 14:00 // 15:00 // Elektrownia Podgórska Kino 18

Michael Nyman’s SUBLIME Workshop - Acoustic from Monday 14:00 // Instruments in Live Laptop Galeria F.A.I.T - installation Performance (Mark Templeton) Kaspar Koenig & Simon Berz 20:00 // Manggha Japanese Museum sat. 18.10 20:06 // Galicia Jewish SoundScapes 2 (Fat Cat label) Museum 20:00 Hauschka 21:10 Max Richter Warhol Series 1 - EMPIRE Hanno Leichtmann 23:00 // Groupshow Pauza Cellar Club Jan Jelinek SoundProof 1 - Circus Co. Andrew Pekler 22:00 bshosa (detroitZDRoJ) 23:30 dOP 00:30 Nôze sun. 19.10 01:30 Tibor Holoda 20:00 // Kino Pod Baranami fri. 24.10 Warhol Series 2 - BLOWJOB 20:00 // Németh / Hess / Siewert St Katherine’s Church Images courtesy of Coke Live Music Festival SoundScapes 3 mon. 20.10 - Impossibility of Silence 20:00 // 20:00 Colleen Kino Pod Baranami 20:50 Pan American 21:40 Ben Frost Warhol Series 3 - KISS nsi. 22:00 // Manggha Japanese Museum

Fuck Buttons / photograph courtesy of unsound.pl tues. 21.10 SoundProof 2 - FACTORY 10:00 // 22:30 Jacek Sienkiewicz Presents Kino 18 Recognition ( ROOM 1 ) 23:00 Jorge Haro ( ROOM 2 ) Music Journalism Workshop 23:45 Banabila / Zenial ( ROOM 2 ) 6th Unsound Festival from the Podgórze Elektrownie, Unsound will 00:00 Melchior Productions (17-25 October) host events and concerts in Gothic St. Catherine’s 16:00 // ( ROOM 1 ) Church, Galicia Jewish Museum, Manggha Mu- Kino 18 00:15 The Sight Below ( ROOM 2 ) seum of Japanese Art & Technology and Kino Pod On October 17th at 6 pm at the Podgórze Elek- Baranami. 01:00 Bruno Pronsato ( ROOM 1 ) trownie (power station), something unusual will Warhol Series 4 - Amos Poe’s 01:15 Jørgen Knudsen ( ROOM 2 ) take place... strange sounds and images will fill There are many exciting events and curious con- Empire II the 19th century building as renowned film com- 02:30 Galoppierende Zuversicht certs throughout the week, but perhaps the most poser Michael Nyman kicks off The 6th Annual Un- 20:00 // ( ROOM 1 ) intriguing event is an eight-hour marathon show sound Festival. Unsound is one of the more unique Manggha Japanese Museum performed by Jan Jelinek’s band Groupshow. The and progressive music festivals that exist in Poland band will improvise to Andy Warhol’s film Empire, sat. 25.10 and Central Europe. Every autumn Unsound show- a static shot of the Empire State Building filmed Warhol Series 4 - Amos Poe’s cases cutting edge artists from all over the world 20:00 // in 1965. The performance will start promptly Empire II that exist on the borders of different genres: clas- Klub Studio at 20:06, which was the exact time that Warhol sical, ambient, rock, clubbing and experimental. began filming in New York. This particular perfor- This year’s edition is their most ambitious yet, mance is free and will take place in the Galicia weds. 22.10 Dissolving Borders & Dubstep spanning seven days and nights and featuring such Jewish Museum in Kazimierz. Empire is one of four 20:00 // Invasion radically diverse artists as Max Richter, Skream, Warhol films being screened and reinterpreted by Benga, Ben Frost, Xiu Xiu, Pan American, Bruno Manggha Japanese Museum 20:00 Fuck Buttons musicians, audio artists and VJs throughout this Pronsato, the aforementioned Michael Nyman and 21:00 Xiu Xiu year’s Unsound, including screenings at the Pod even Fuck Buttons. SoundScapes 1 22:30 Boxcutter Baranami cinema. For a full listing of concerts and 20:00 Mark Templeton events and to buy tickets for the festival, log onto 23:30 Benga This year’s festival pushes the boundaries not only 20:40 Autistic Daughters www.unsound.pl 00:45 Skream musically and sonically but also expands spatially 21:30 The Necks 02:00 Pinch into new eclectic and atmospheric venues. Apart Thym Chase www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 CL7

postedThe Month in Events provided by Cracow-life.com

SPECIAL EVENTS ORGAN DAYS AT THE PHILHARMONIC A bankable fixture in Krakow’s autumn BAYIT HADASH: ENCOUNTERS calendar, Organ Days has been piping away WITH JEWISH CULTURE for over forty years now. This year, the The Centre for Jewish Culture is celebrat- Philharmonic is laying on a trio of perform- ing its 15th birthday, and a rich programme ances, beginning on Thursday 23rd with a of events will see in the Jewish New Year, solo gig by Andrzej Białko. The follow- which falls on September 29th. Throughout ing day, Jacek Kulig will play Puccini October and November, visitors can make the and Respighi, accompanied by tenor and most of a series of exclusive lectures, liter- bass. Wrapping things up on Saturday will be ary debates, classical and Klezmer concerts, a tribute to celebrated composer Roman and much more. Maciejewski, whose Requiem provides the when - Throughout October main feature. where - Centre for Jewish Culture, when - 23rd to 25th October ul. Meiseslsa 17 where - Philharmonic Hall, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1

FESTIVALS ZADUSZKI JAZZ FESTIVAL Shake off those autumn blues with a dash of OFF CAMERA - 1ST INTERNATIONAL jubilant jazz. This stalwart of the rainy sea- FESTIVAL OF INDEPENDENT CINEMA son is now in its 53rd year, echoing Krakow’s See “Silver Screening” insert for details. long-running romance with the genre. Local when - 1st until 5th October legends will be joined by a handful of special where - Various guests from abroad. when - 31st October to 3rd November UNSOUND FESTIVAL 2008 where - Various Zofia Stryjeńska, Zólta spódnica (Yellow Dress), 1950. National Museum in Krakow See spotlight, CL 6. when - 18th to 25th October coastlines to barren, snow-capped moun- where – Various EXHIBITIONS tains, Ecuador is a country of wildly varied terrains. At this special exhibition, which FIRST STEP... comes under the patronage of the Ambas- A hoard of contemporary classics can be explored at the National throughout autumn, including cuts from blonde bombshell Andy Warhol and his mischievous protégé David LaChapelle. With works from a dozen hot names in the contemporary canon, “First Step...” stands out as one of the most heavy- weight shows of recent months. Krakow has hit the jackpot thanks to Rafael Jablonka, whose eponymous gallery in Cologne estab- lished him as a major international collector. There are hopes that this show is the “first step” in a more permanent relationship with Mr. Jablonka. when - Throughout October & November where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1

JEWISH ARTISTS IN KRAKOW 1873-1939 Mark Templeton, unsound festival The Old Synagogue provides an atmospheric backdrop to this exhibition. Polish Jewish sador to Poland Fernando Flores Macias, writers have won international acclaim, but visitors can discover an evocative array of their painter peers have not been in the archaeological relics and handcrafted treas- spotlight to the same degree. This exhibition ures. There are also films from the archives showcases over a hundred and fifty works of Borys Malkin. Find the show at the by Polish Jewish artists. Figures such as ADVERTISEMENT Zygmunt Menkes and Leopold Gottlieb are already highly appraised by Polish art historians, yet visitors can also enjoy works by lesser-known talents. when - Until 31st October where - Old Synagogue Museum, ul. Szeroka 24

ECUADOR - CULTURE ON THE EQUATOR Tom Vernimmen. “In-Between Worlds. Photographs of Nowa Huta,” Galeria Zderzak From tropical forests and mangrove-riddled CL8 Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 www.krakowpost.com

quisite Ciolek Palace at the foot of the Royal selection of prints and sketches on view. Castle. Fresh from renovation, and boasting when - 2nd October until 4th January 2009 a royal roster of Old Polish art, the museum where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 is a splendid addition to the city’s cultural orbit. Catch the show before it closes on the ONE OR TWO OR CROWD 12th. Krakow’s newest art gallery kicks off its art when - Until 12th October attack with an exhibition by Kristof Kintera, where - Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace, the “enfant terrible of the Czech art scene.” ul. Kanonicza 17 He’ll be spewing red oil across the room in thick, gleaming dollops. Confused? Head over IN BETWEEN WORLDS to ul. Mikołajska to investigate further... Belgian photographer Tom Vernimmen when - Until 21st October has been pottering around Nowa Huta for where - Dominik Art Projects, ul. Mikołajska 5/2 five years now. The fruits of his wanderings can be enjoyed at this memorable exhibi- SWEET MONDAY & OTHER STILL LIFES tion at Galeria Zderzak. Vernimmen brings Photoholics and alcoholics can enjoy a dou- to life a much maligned district, finding both ble whammy at Pauza this October, begin- charm and grit, as well as a liberal dash of ning with Pawel Zak’s surreal and witty the bizarre. still lifes. The opening of the show is at 8 pm when - Until 18th October on Friday 10th. where - Galeria Zderzak, ul. Floriańska 3 when - 11th until 31st October where - Pauza Gallery, ul. Floriańska 18/5 TRACES OF MEMORY A wander around the once Jewish streets of THE PATH TO THE VATICAN Kazimierz would not be complete without a Echoing the election of the Archbishop of pause in the Galicia Museum. Founded by a Krakow to the throne of St. Peter exactly 30 bold British photographer who had roots in years ago, this exhibition explores the con- the region, the museum provides a vivid in- tacts between Poland’s former Royal Capital Adam Marczyński, Konkretcollage 62 (Detail) troduction to a 700 year legacy. Although the and the Vatican. museum’s subsidiary branch at the Esterka when - From 6th September Holocaust looms over the exhibition, “Traces of when - From 11th October House. where - Pauza Gallery, ul. Floriańska 18/5 Memory” is both a lament and a celebration, where - Krzysztofory Palace, Rynek Główny 35 when - Until 31st January 2009 finishing on a surprisingly optimistic note. where - Ethnographic Museum JAN III SOBIESKI when - Throughout October ZOFIA STRYJEŃSKA (1891-1976) (Esterka Branch), ul. Krakowska 46 - PORTRAITS OF THE VIENNA VICTORS where - Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwór 18 Dubbed “The Princess of Polish Art” after her Chiming in with the 325th anniversary of triumph at the 1925 International Exhibi- NIHON the Relief of Vienna, the National is laying ADAM MARCZYŃSKI tion in Paris, Stryjeńska is being celebrated Professional shutterbug Tomek Niewia- on its own modest tribute to the monarch - BETWEEN METAPHOR & CERTAINTY this year in her first major retrospective domski has been toing and froing from Ja- who saved the day: Jan III Sobieski. The Born exactly a century ago, Adam to date. Although by no means the most pan for several years now, and this exhibition portly king - one of the most swashbuckling Marczyński was one of Krakow’s most po- talented or innovative of Poland’s pre-war shows the fruits of those sojourns. Niewia- characters of his day - won the applause of tent artistic forces in the years following the avant-garde, her work perfectly captures domski collaborated with Japanese fashion all Christendom when he helped repulse the war. This exhibition focuses on his abstract the playful spirit of Polish Art Deco, with its designer Yohji Yamamoto, but “Nihon” also Turks from Vienna in 1683. This small yet adventures between the years 1954 and joyful championing of folk motifs. This wide- draws on his more personal encounters with charismatic show is being hosted in the ex- 1963. Besides paintings, there will be a large ranging exhibition delves into many aspects the people he met.

OFF CAMERA 1st International Festival of Independent Cinema

It’s inspiring to see ambitious new festivals popping up at this time of year, and this one looks set to be a winner. Off Camera will be showcasing over 120 independent films from around the globe, with a select number battling it out for a grand prize of 100,000 Euros (not to mention a cartload of kudos). In tune with the independent accent, the festival will be championing the city’s art house and lone ranger cinemas. The organisers are brim- ming with bright ideas, with intrigu- ing tangents such as the tripartite Glancing Back section, which shines spotlights on Andy Warhol, Michael Ballast (USA, 2008) directed by Lance Hammer Almereyda and the works of the American Film Theatre. Meanwhile, KIJÓW 19:00 Ballast dir. Lance Hammer “Take it, all of you, and shoot it” Fri. 3rd Oct – offers a 3000 euro prize for the Fri. 3rd Oct – BUNKIER 22:30 Lonesome Cowboys dir. Paul Morrissey best miniature movie that’s shot Sat. 4th Oct – POD BARANAMI 19:00 Travelling with Pets dir. Vera Storozheva on a mobile phone. Find out more from the festival’s official website. silver screening Sat. 4th Oct – POD BARANAMI 22:30 Correction dir. Thanos Anastopoulos Sun. 5th Oct – ARS - REDUTA 16:00 Mister Lonely dir. Harmony Korrine www.capellacracoviensis.plwhen - 1st until 5th October MIKRO 19:00 Rocking Horse Winner dir. Michael Almereyda where - Various Sun. 5th Oct – when > 15th to 31st SEPTEMBER www.offcamera.com.pl FULL PROGRAMME AVAILABLE www.offcamera.pl Sobieski - at Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 CL9

Travelling with Pets (Russia, 2007) directed by Wiera Storożewa at Off Camera Film Festival of Stryjeńska’s career. Besides paintings, when - 28th October to 27th January Truck. The screenings start at 7 pm. there will be posters, book designs and stage where - International Cultural Centre, when - 17th October sets (Stryjeńska even designed the famed Rynek Główny 25 where - Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Główny 27 Wedel Chocolate Shop in Warsaw). when - 24th October until 4th January OPERA, THEATRE CINEMA IN FIVE FLAVOURS: where - National Museum, Al. 3 Maja 1 2ND FESTIVAL OF VIETNAMESE FILM & DANCE Kino Pod Baranami has a nifty proposal to IN THE SHADOWS OF THE help spice up the late autumn gloom. IMAGINATION - ALFRED KUBIN GROTESKA: CHILDREN’S THEATRE & MORE “Cinema in Five Flavours” brings you a tan- The supreme ICC continues its tributes Puss In Boots (Kot w Butach) will be bound- talising taste of Vietnamese film, with prime to Austrian masters, this time looking at ing into Groteska this October. The premiere pieces by the top directors on today’s scene. Sobieski - at Bishop Erazm Ciołek Palace Alfred Kubin, often dubbed “the Austrian is pencilled in for Saturday 11th, and there Six scintillating movies have been lined up Goya.” Ghouls, demons and strange appari- will be plenty more performances throughout to transport you to sweltering Southeast LIVE MUSIC tions haunt Kubin’s images, making him the the month. The Groteska Puppet Theatre has Asia, offering a golden opportunity to savour perfect choice to illustrate works by Edgar won acclaim for its magical interpretations some fresh perspectives. Drop by to Kino Pod 4TH KRAKOW JAZZ AUTUMN Allen Poe, E.T.A Hoffmann and Dos- of the classics, offering first class family Baranami for more details. Two of Krakow’s hippest hangouts - Alchemia toevsky. This show draws on the world’s entertainment that’s full of fantasy. Also in when - 21st to 26th October and Klub Re - will be hosting this year’s Jazz largest collection of Kubin’s works, which are the programme for October are Little Red where - Kino Pod Baranami, Rynek Główny 27 Autumn. Jazz stars will be jetting in from as housed at Linz’s Landesmuseum. Riding Hood (Czerwony Kapturek) and The far afield as Mozambique, the U.S. and Japan Ugly Duckling (Brzydkie Kaczatko). for some subterranean jam sessions. Amongst when - Throughout October the guests for October are Scandanavian out- where - Groteska, ul. Skarbowa 2 fit Atomic, the Charles Gayle Trio and the Kazutoki Umezu Kiki Band. FILM when - Throughout October & November where - Various SALOME ON THE SILVER SCREEN Kino Kijów kicks off the new season with a live transmission of Salome direct from The Metropolitan Opera in New York. Strauss’s classic starts at 7 pm sharp Krakow time. when - 11th October where - Kino Kijów, al. Krasińskiego 34

FUTURE SHORTS FESTIVAL Since starting in 2003, Future Shorts has become a bona fide phenomenon, casting its celluloid tentacles into dozens of cit- ies around the world. On Friday 17th you can catch 11 short films back to back. The overarching theme of the October edition is ambition, and cinephiles can enjoy cuts from Swedish, British, Finnish, Canadian and Ger- Cinema in Five Flavours, man directors. Intriguing titles include Who Kino Pod Baranami I Am and What I Want and Alex and Her Arse CL10 Krakow Post OCTOBER2008 www.krakowpost.com

CULTURAL PARTNERS OPEN MIC NIGHT AT SZAFE The Open Mic Night is a monthly event at which performers can get on stage and share their music. All musicians of all levels and attitudes are welcome. Cafe Szafe (located one block from Massolit Books) provides the cozy stage, full PA system, and good beer, every first Sunday of the month. A good time is guaranteed, whether you come to play or just to listen. From 7 to 10 pm. when - 5th October where - Cafe Szafe, ul. Felicjanek 10 NINJA TUNE PRESENTS: COLDCUT “klezzmates” play live CASPIAN JOURNEYS BY VJ Krakow’s new Face2Face club is starting off Ninja Tune is bringing yet another hot party LADYTRON with an impressive line-up, featuring Ameri- to Krakow’s underground Pauza Club, with Ladytron - one of the biggest groups on can instrumental rock band Caspian. Based Coldcut - a musical duo consisting of Matt the electronic music scene - will be hitting in Beverly, Massachusetts, the band has been Black and Jonathan More from the UK. Sup- Krakow’s Studio student club, promoting together since 2003, and has a full-length al- porting will be Mike Polarny & Hory their new album “Velocifero,” which includes bum under their belt titled “The Four Trees.” (Pompon.net). Visuals will be masterfully collaborations with Alessandro Cortinim Supporting Caspian will be Krakow’s own handled by VJ Bankok & Mikee of Tem- (Nine Inch Nails) and Vicarious Bliss international post-rock band New Century porary Space Design. The party kicks (Justice, DJ Mehdi). Sometimes electro- Classics. Expect a night of epic melodies, off at 10 pm. For tickets, e-mail dominika@ poppy, sometimes synth-heavy, Ladytron’s walls of sound and beautiful moments. pauza.pl. music will have the club’s dancefloor jumping when - 23rd October when - 11th October and fans’ eardrums reverberating well after where - Face2Face, ul. Paulińska 28 where - Pauza Club, ul. Floriańska 18 the concert. Tickets start at 65 złoty, and are available online or at the club’s ticket office. THE KLEZZMATES when - 18th October The Klezzmates kick back with a fresh where - Studio, ul. Reymonta 17 mixture of jazz, folk, ethnic and Klezmer. Tickets are 20 złoty (12 złoty concessions). when - 23rd October where - Galicia Jewish Museum, ul. Dajwór 18

AUDREY & ANDY Granted, both bands’ names start with the letter “A”, both bands feature four girls sing- ing and playing various instruments, and both band names are names themselves - but this Been there? The best bar, is where the similarities between Audrey Done that? restaurant or hotel & Andy end. Audrey is a post-rock band review wins a trip for Got the t-shirt? 2 back to the city. from Sweden, playing melodies that vary from poppy to dark, often in the same song. www.cracow-life.com Meanwhile, the indie pop of the Polish girls in Andy is far from original, though the fun they have on stage is pretty contagious. when - 31st October where - Lizard King, ul. Św. Tomasza 11a CLUB MUSIC

MIDWEEK PARTIES Another month and another exciting round of Where2b parties. If you can’t wait for the weekend check out Mixer on Mondays at Pro- zak, Today on Tuesdays at Ministerstwo, Black Cherry on Wednesdays at Midgard and Sex on Wax on Thursdays at Cien Club. Hangover guaranteed! when - Throughout October where - Various Clubs

ELSA KRAKOW NIGHT @ PROZAK Have your parents been pressuring you to study law, when all you want to do is party? Now’s your chance to snap up your very own legal body, as future lawyers gather up to get down at Prozak’s ELSA (European Law Students’ Association) Krakow night for law and administration students of Jagiellonian University and Krakow University College. You don’t have to be a student, however, to enjoy the tunes DJ Lux will be spinning - but it helps to act like one! when - 2nd October where - Prozak, pl. Dominikański 6 www.krakowpost.com Krakow Post OCTOBER 2008 CL11

lastStars & Puzzles page

ASTRO SELTZER SUDOKU

LIBRA (Sep 23 - Oct 22) To play: Complete the grid so that every Unreliable people continue to be irritatingly unaware of how much trouble row, column and every 3 x 3 box contains the digits 1 to 9. There is no guessing or maths they’re causing. You’ve been biting your tongue and escaping into revenge involved, just use logic to solve. fantasies; but, even that isn’t doing the trick. Play the waiting game and trust that by mid-month all will be back to what you’ve come to consider normal. Best bet for romance: an enthusiastically sensual Taurus or an unpredictable Aquarius will love arguing with you.

PISCES (Feb 19 – March 19) CANCER (Jun 21 – Jul 22) SCORPIO (Oct 23 - Nov 21) Although you probably dress Your hands-off philosophy hasn’t been Lost in space without a map, like a depressed missionary, working. Letting people tod- you’ve been astoundingly your brain glows with ideas, dle along at the own pace, distracted, aimless and illogi- visions and fantasies that you’ve discovered that too cal. That changes this month are worth their weight in many people are lazy and as some pro-active cosmic gold. This month, due to an unmotivated. Well enough of elements catapult you back interesting set of circum- that: you’re about to unleash into the real world. Your busy brain will be stances, you begin to understand just how a brilliant plan that will put operating at fever pitch as you attack each valuable your insights and ideas are. Best others back where they belong - at your and every aspect of your life with grit and bet for romance: an intense Scorpio will feet doing your bidding. Best bet for ro- determination. Best bet for romance: a sexu- keep you on track, while a progressive mance: an easily-flattered Leo or a bouncy ally creative Gemini or a cool, calm and col- Aquarius will help keep melancholy at bay. Sagittarius will let you rule the roost. lected Libra will never take you too seriously. ARIES (Mar 20 - Apr 19) LEO (Jul 23 - Aug 22) SAGITTARIUS (Nov 22 - Dec 20) Your feverish brain won’t Love of detail and disdain for slip-shod If procrastination becomes accomplish much until mid- work keeps you at least one too tempting, there’s no month, when you suddenly step ahead of competitors. need to worry. Close friends develop a fresher perspective This month, however, a are determined to see you on life. Relationships have charmingly lazy type could succeed and will refuse to been particularly challenging, leaving you pull the proverbial wool over play along with any of your dazed and confused by impossible to meet your eyes in seconds flat. usual avoidance techniques. You may run, demands. Ignore what you can’t fix and Why? You’re growing tired of running the but you won’t be able to hide. Best bets take a holiday in your own fantasy world. show on your lonesome and are silently for romance: sturdy Taurus will keep you Best bet for romance: a quirky Virgo or an crying out for some ego-stroking. Best bet grounded, while a goofy Aquarius will keep independent Aquarius will hold your inter- for romance: an emotional Cancer or a sly you chuckling. est. Pisces will know how to push all the right buttons. CAPRICORN (Dec 21 - Jan 19) TAURUS (Apr 20 - May 20) Professionally speaking, Thrown off-guard by what VIRGO (Aug 23 - Sep 22) you’ve been losing your grip, you consider unwarranted Are you feeling stuck in a rut? Have you forgetting to repeat your criticism, you’ve been hiding been dreaming about what it “no one is to be trusted” out, nursing a few psychic would be like to live some- mantra. It could be that wounds. The problem was one else’s life? Uncharacter- you’re losing your touch, or (and still is!) that you aren’t istically bored, you may be perhaps you’re merely waiting for some- always the best listener in the universe. wondering if you’re actually thing that warrants your eagle-eyed atten- Dust yourself off, take stock off all your depressed. The truth is that tion. By mid-month, you’ll be planning a wonderful qualities and try to pay closer life has become too routine. temporary sojourn in more exotic climes. attention to what’s going on around you. That said, the only person who can shake Best bet for romance: a malleable Pisces Best bet for romance: a half-mad Libra things up is you! Best bet for romance: an will let run the ship, while an elegant Leo or an intense Scorpio will feed your ego energetic Aries or a devoted Taurus will will treat you like royalty. while pushing your brain into full gear. take your well-meaning criticism in stride. Krakow Post’s astrology column is for entertain- AQUARIUS (Jan 20 - Feb 18) GEMINI (May 21 - Jun 20) ment purposes only, and the Post is not respon- A bit of your sparkle has gone Blessed (or, cursed, depend- sible for any consequences incurred as a result of this column. Written by Kerwin McLeister, missing in action, adding a ing on one’s world-view) with [email protected] strange world-weary cast to the capacity for detached your face. That is about to passion, you’re a quietly change - and the sooner the contradictory piece of work. better. By the month’s end, This month, your envi- SUDOKU SOLUTIONS you’ll be shattering people’s able creativity will be both noticed and expectations and assumptions once again. rewarded. The only drawback is that you Best bet for romance: a sentimental Pisces could be the target of jealousy; after all, or a witty Gemini will prevent you from most other people work harder than you succumbing to the tyranny of predictabil- and get nowhere in the process! Best bet ity. for romance: a practical, but earthy Capri- corn or distracted Libra will know when to give you space. Star-Signs drawn by Dominik Nawrocki