JACK DYKINGA SHARES PHOTOS SUSIE YAZZIE: THE MATRIARCH ONE OF THE COOLEST SEDONA FROM A DARK DESERT HIGHWAY OF MAJESTIC MONUMENT VALLEY HIKES YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF FEBRUARY 2011 ESCAPE. EXPLORE. EXPERIENCE HISTORIC LANDMARKS REASONS TO HIT THE ROAD ... AND LEARN SOMETHING 20 ALONG THE WAY plus 100 YEARS, 100 RANCHERS: Perhaps the Most Impressive Centennial Project of Them All and PIESTEWA PEAK: arizonahighways.com $3.99 An Essay About an Icon by Craig Childs 4 september 2008 Fort Bowie National Historic Site INSIDE 2 EDITOR’S LETTER 38 ROUNDUP OF THE 46 PIESTEWA PEAK Monument Valley 3 CONTRIBUTORS In 2008, a Phoenix landmark lost its name and gained a CENTURY contents 4 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR new identity. Craig Childs wasn’t crazy about the change Ranching is big in Arizona. Or at least it was. For many Grand Canyon reasons, running cattle is a vanishing way of life. The — he thought it reeked of political correctness — but National Park 5 THE JOURNAL a night on the mountain had him whispering Piestewa, Wikieup Herefords, the horses, the ranchers themselves ... Sedona 02.11 People, places and things from around the state, includ- Piestewa, Piestewa. they’re slowly disappearing. That’s why Scott Baxter Wickenburg ing a profile of Susie Yazzie, the matriarch of the Navajo set out to preserve their collective history, one AN ESSAY BY CRAIG CHILDS people; the renaissance of a Sedona landmark; and a PHOTOGRAPHS BY SUZANNE MATHIA photograph at a time. PHOENIX restaurant in Tucson that’s right on track. BY KELLY KRAMER PHOTOGRAPHS BY SCOTT BAXTER 52 SCENIC DRIVE 16 PIECES OF HISTORY Joshua Tree Parkway: Why drive to California for Joshua Tucson Like most places, Arizona has a colorful history, and trees when you can pile in the car and head to Wikieup? Tombstone much of it has been memorialized with historic markers. • POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE They’re interesting and informational, but we know that 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH none of you are going to stop for a history lesson on your Casner Canyon Trail: There are plenty of great trails in the way to somewhere else. So, we’re suggesting you make Sedona area. This is the best one you’ve never heard of. the markers a destination, not a pit stop. Begin with Big Dry Wash, and then make your way down our list. 56 WHERE IS THIS? BY NORM TESSMAN 28 ON A DARK DESERT HIGHWAY ... Historic Route 66, Carefree Highway ... those are among the state’s most famous thoroughfares. Pinal Pioneer Parkway is a road that few have ever heard of. Jack Dykinga is one of the few. He spent a year driving up and down the desert highway, and he had his camera along for the ride. A PORTFOLIO BY JACK DYKINGA GET MORE ONLINE www.arizonahighways.com Visit our website for details on weekend getaways, hiking, lodging, dining, photography workshops, slideshows and more. Also, check out our blog ◗ Because of their ability to adapt to the state’s diverse habitats, coyotes thrive in Arizona. | BRUCE TAUBERT for regular posts on just about anything related to travel in Arizona, including road closures, FRONT COVER The adobe walls of historic Fort Bowie once environmental news, festivals and other valuable served as the focal point for military operations during Arizona’s Indian Wars. | JEFF KIDA information we couldn’t fit in the magazine. BACK COVER Oak Creek ripples along its snow-covered www.facebook.com/azhighways course in Central Arizona. | DEREK VON BRIESEN Like us on Facebook and get a behind-the-scenes look at Arizona Highways, along with exclusive photos, trivia contests, quirky news and more. Photographic Prints Available Prints of some photographs in this issue are available for purchase. To view options, visit www.arizonahighwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. editor’s contrib- SCOTT BAXTER letter For Scott Baxter, photographing the utors @ rstieve arizonahighways.com FEBRUARY 2011 VOL. 87, NO. 2 Southwest comes as naturally as rid- 800-543-5432 ing a bicycle. Or in his case, a horse. in North Phoenix has an impressive history, as www.arizonahighways.com Although the avid rider’s work has well, including the etymology of its name. For appeared in galleries across the United Publisher decades, the mountain was known as Squaw WIN HOLDEN States, Mexico and Japan, it’s his Peak, but because the word “squaw” is a deroga- Editor Arizona-specific work that he’s most ROBERT STIEVE tory term for Native American women, the name focused on lately, specifically, his “100 Senior Editor was nixed, and in 2008 the peak was officially RANDY SUMMERLIN Years, 100 Ranchers” project (see Managing Editor JEFF KIDA Roundup of the Century, page 38). “The renamed for Lori Piestewa, a Hopi woman who KELLY KRAMER was killed at the onset of the Iraq War — she Editorial Administrator ranching tradition in Arizona is enduring History, Hopis and Horses was the first Native American woman to die in NIKKI KIMBEL and important,” Baxter says. “My goal is to recognize these families that have struggled Photography Editor to survive and persevere in these difficult times.” Arizona Highways will feature images combat on foreign soil. JEFF KIDA ort Bowie National Historic Site. If anyone ever asks you to name one of the Writer Craig Childs wasn’t crazy about the Creative Director from Baxter’s collection each month until the Arizona Centennial in February 2012. most beautiful and least-visited national parks in the country, that’s the name change — he thought it reeked of political BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY F Design Production Assistant answer. I didn’t believe it either. In fact, when a friend told me she’d heard about the correctness — but a night on the mountain and DIANA BENZEL-RICE ranking on NPR, I thought maybe she was having a hard time reading her hand- a better understanding of the new name helped Map Designer SUZANNE MATHIA KEVIN KIBSEY scribbled note. Fort Bowie? Really? Turns out, she was right. change his mind. Like every essay by Craig Dubbed the designated family pho- Production Director A few years ago, members of the Coalition of National Park Service Retirees Childs, this one’s superb, and it’s accompanied MICHAEL BIANCHI tographer at a young age, Suzanne decided to share their insights by identifying the 10 most beautiful and least-visited by the brilliant photography of Suzanne Mathia. Webmaster Mathia has been making images VICTORIA J. SNOW national parks in the United States — the nearly 400-member group accounts for a If you’re a frequent reader of Arizona Highways, since what she affectionately calls Director of Sales & Marketing total of more than 11,000 years’ worth of NPS experience, so they know what they’re you know that Suzanne has become one of our KELLY MERO the “film days.” But it wasn’t until she Circulation Director attended an Arizona Highways photo talking about. Among their top 10 was Fort Bowie, which sits in Southeastern Ari- premier photographers. We’re continually blown NICOLE BOWMAN zona and commemorates the history of the bitter conflict between the Apaches and away by her work, and “WOW” is how we usu- Finance Director workshop that she found her niche. the U.S. military. The fort is a long haul from civilization, but it’s worth the drive. ally respond when she drops something off. We BOB ALLEN “I was around people who enjoyed Information Technology And so is every other site in this month’s cover story. have the same reaction to Scott Baxter’s photog- CINDY BORM ANIS what I enjoyed,” she says. “We were In all, we feature 20 of the state’s historic landmarks. Before you reach for another raphy. As you’ll see in Roundup of the Century, his just happy sitting there waiting for sunsets and sunrises.” After her introduction to the Corporate or Trade Sales magazine, I know what you’re thinking: Historic landmarks? B-O-R-I-N-G. I drive past black-and-white portraits are as good as any- 602-712-2019 Arizona wilderness, Mathia began shooting everything and anything in her path, includ- those things all the time. Why would anybody stop? It’s a good question, and you’re not alone thing we’ve ever published. Sponsorship Sales Representation ing Phoenix’s Piestewa Peak (see page 46). A 15-year resident of Arizona, she says her ERNIE MULHOLLAND in your apathy. In an informal poll of about seven people conducted in the checkout Roundup of the Century is a story about Baxter EMM MEDIA SERVICES LLC home has everything she needs. “Within a couple of hours I can be on the Paria Plateau 602-971-6260 or at the Grand Canyon, or travel east to the White Mountains or south to the Chirica- line at REI in Tempe, exactly zero shoppers had ever stopped at a roadside marker. and his opus, a collection of photographs he’s [email protected] I guess they were too intent on getting to the trailhead, which is why we decided to calling “100 Years, 100 Ranchers.” The massive huas.” Mathia’s work has also appeared in National Geographic. Letters to the Editor do this story. portfolio, which has been designated an official [email protected] 2039 W. Lewis Avenue We know that none of you are going to stop for a history lesson on your way to Centennial Legacy Project, documents the lives Phoenix, AZ 85009 somewhere else. So, we’re suggesting you make the historic markers a destination, not of men and women whose families have been Governor JACK DYKINGA a pit stop.