JACK DYKINGA SHARES PHOTOS SUSIE YAZZIE: THE MATRIARCH ONE OF THE COOLEST SEDONA FROM A DARK DESERT HIGHWAY OF MAJESTIC MONUMENT VALLEY HIKES YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF

FEBRUARY 2011

ESCAPE. EXPLORE. EXPERIENCE HISTORIC LANDMARKS REASONS TO HIT THE ROAD ... AND LEARN SOMETHING 20 ALONG THE WAY

plus 100 YEARS, 100 RANCHERS: Perhaps the Most Impressive Centennial Project of Them All and

PIESTEWA PEAK: arizonahighways.com $3.99 An Essay About an Icon by Craig Childs

4 september 2008 National Historic Site INSIDE

2 EDITOR’S LETTER 38 ROUNDUP OF THE 46 Monument Valley 3 CONTRIBUTORS­ CENTURY In 2008, a Phoenix landmark lost its name and gained a contents 4 LETTERS TO THE EDITOR new identity. Craig Childs wasn’t crazy about the change Ranching is big in . Or at least it was. For many reasons, running cattle is a vanishing way of life. The — he thought it reeked of political correctness — but National Park 5 THE JOURNAL a night on the mountain had him whispering Piestewa, Wikieup Herefords, the horses, the ranchers themselves ... Sedona 02.11 People, places and things from around the state, includ- Piestewa, Piestewa. they’re slowly disappearing. That’s why Scott Baxter Wickenburg ing a profile of Susie Yazzie, the matriarch of the set out to preserve their collective history, one AN ESSAY BY CRAIG CHILDS people; the renaissance of a Sedona landmark; and a PHOTOGRAPHS BY SUZANNE MATHIA photograph at a time. PHOENIX restaurant in Tucson that’s right on track. BY KELLY KRAMER PHOTOGRAPHS BY SCOTT BAXTER 52 SCENIC DRIVE 16 PIECES OF HISTORY Joshua Tree Parkway: Why drive to for Joshua Tucson Like most places, Arizona has a colorful history, and trees when you can pile in the car and head to Wikieup? Tombstone much of it has been memorialized with historic markers. • POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE They’re interesting and informational, but we know that 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH none of you are going to stop for a history lesson on your Casner Canyon Trail: There are plenty of great trails in the way to somewhere else. So, we’re suggesting you make Sedona area. This is the best one you’ve never heard of. the markers a destination, not a pit stop. Begin with Big Dry Wash, and then make your way down our list. 56 WHERE IS THIS? BY NORM TESSMAN 28 ON A DARK DESERT HIGHWAY ... Historic Route 66, Carefree Highway ... those are among the state’s most famous thoroughfares. Pinal Pioneer Parkway is a road that few have ever heard of. Jack Dykinga is one of the few. He spent a year driving up and down the desert highway, and he had his camera along for the ride. A PORTFOLIO BY JACK DYKINGA

GET MORE ONLINE www.arizonahighways.com Visit our website for details on weekend getaways, hiking, lodging, dining, photography workshops, slideshows and more. Also, check out our blog ◗ Because of their ability to adapt to the state’s diverse habitats, coyotes thrive in Arizona. | BRUCE TAUBERT for regular posts on just about anything related to travel in Arizona, including road closures, FRONT COVER The adobe walls of historic Fort Bowie once environmental news, festivals and other valuable served as the focal point for military operations during Arizona’s Indian Wars. | JEFF KIDA information we couldn’t fit in the magazine. BACK COVER Oak Creek ripples along its snow-covered www.facebook.com/azhighways course in Central Arizona. | DEREK VON BRIESEN Like us on Facebook and get a behind-the-scenes look at Arizona Highways, along with exclusive photos, trivia contests, quirky news and more. Photographic Prints Available Prints of some photographs in this issue are available for purchase. To view options, visit www.arizonahighwaysprints.com. For more information, call 866-962-1191. editor’s contrib- SCOTT BAXTER letter For Scott Baxter, photographing the utors @ rstieve arizonahighways.com FEBRUARY 2011 VOL. 87, NO. 2 Southwest comes as naturally as rid-

800-543-5432 ing a bicycle. Or in his case, a horse. in North Phoenix has an impressive history, as www.arizonahighways.com Although the avid rider’s work has well, including the etymology of its name. For appeared in galleries across the United Publisher decades, the mountain was known as WIN HOLDEN States, Mexico and Japan, it’s his Peak, but because the word “squaw” is a deroga- Editor Arizona-specific work that he’s most ROBERT STIEVE tory term for Native American women, the name focused on lately, specifically, his “100 Senior Editor was nixed, and in 2008 the peak was officially RANDY SUMMERLIN Years, 100 Ranchers” project (see Managing Editor JEFF KIDA Roundup of the Century, page 38). “The renamed for Lori Piestewa, a woman who KELLY KRAMER was killed at the onset of the — she Editorial Administrator ranching tradition in Arizona is enduring History, and Horses was the first Native American woman to die in NIKKI KIMBEL and important,” Baxter says. “My goal is to recognize these families that have struggled Photography Editor to survive and persevere in these difficult times.” Arizona Highways will feature images combat on foreign soil. JEFF KIDA ort Bowie National Historic Site. If anyone ever asks you to name one of the Writer Craig Childs wasn’t crazy about the Creative Director from Baxter’s collection each month until the Arizona Centennial in February 2012. most beautiful and least-visited national parks in the country, that’s the name change — he thought it reeked of political BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY F Design Production Assistant answer. I didn’t believe it either. In fact, when a friend told me she’d heard about the correctness — but a night on the mountain and DIANA BENZEL-RICE ranking on NPR, I thought maybe she was having a hard time reading her hand- a better understanding of the new name helped Map Designer SUZANNE MATHIA KEVIN KIBSEY scribbled note. Fort Bowie? Really? Turns out, she was right. change his mind. Like every essay by Craig Dubbed the designated family pho- Production Director A few years ago, members of the Coalition of Retirees Childs, this one’s superb, and it’s accompanied MICHAEL BIANCHI tographer at a young age, Suzanne decided to share their insights by identifying the 10 most beautiful and least-visited by the brilliant photography of Suzanne Mathia. Webmaster Mathia has been making images VICTORIA J. SNOW national parks in the — the nearly 400-member group accounts for a If you’re a frequent reader of Arizona Highways, since what she affectionately calls Director of Sales & Marketing total of more than 11,000 years’ worth of NPS experience, so they know what they’re you know that Suzanne has become one of our KELLY MERO the “film days.” But it wasn’t until she Circulation Director attended an Arizona Highways photo talking about. Among their top 10 was Fort Bowie, which sits in Southeastern Ari- premier photographers. We’re continually blown NICOLE BOWMAN zona and commemorates the history of the bitter conflict between the and away by her work, and “WOW” is how we usu- Finance Director workshop that she found her niche. the U.S. military. The fort is a long haul from civilization, but it’s worth the drive. ally respond when she drops something off. We BOB ALLEN “I was around people who enjoyed Information Technology And so is every other site in this month’s cover story. have the same reaction to Scott Baxter’s photog- CINDY BORM ANIS what I enjoyed,” she says. “We were In all, we feature 20 of the state’s historic landmarks. Before you reach for another raphy. As you’ll see in Roundup of the Century, his just happy sitting there waiting for sunsets and sunrises.” After her introduction to the Corporate or Trade Sales magazine, I know what you’re thinking: Historic landmarks? B-O-R-I-N-G. I drive past black-and-white portraits are as good as any- 602-712-2019 Arizona wilderness, Mathia began shooting everything and anything in her path, includ- those things all the time. Why would anybody stop? It’s a good question, and you’re not alone thing we’ve ever published. Sponsorship Sales Representation ing Phoenix’s Piestewa Peak (see page 46). A 15-year resident of Arizona, she says her ERNIE MULHOLLAND in your apathy. In an informal poll of about seven people conducted in the checkout Roundup of the Century is a story about Baxter EMM MEDIA SERVICES LLC home has everything she needs. “Within a couple of hours I can be on the Paria Plateau 602-971-6260 or at the Grand Canyon, or travel east to the White Mountains or south to the Chirica- line at REI in Tempe, exactly zero shoppers had ever stopped at a roadside marker. and his opus, a collection of photographs he’s [email protected] I guess they were too intent on getting to the trailhead, which is why we decided to calling “100 Years, 100 Ranchers.” The massive huas.” Mathia’s work has also appeared in National Geographic. Letters to the Editor do this story. portfolio, which has been designated an official [email protected] 2039 W. Lewis Avenue We know that none of you are going to stop for a history lesson on your way to Centennial Legacy Project, documents the lives Phoenix, AZ 85009

somewhere else. So, we’re suggesting you make the historic markers a destination, not of men and women whose families have been Governor JACK DYKINGA a pit stop. Begin with Fort Bowie, and then make your way down the list. By the time working Arizona’s open range for at least a cen- JANICE K. BREWER Pulitzer Prize-winning Director, Department of Transportation you’re finished, you’ll have seen a good chunk of the state, and you’ll have learned tury or more. The project won’t be completed JOHN S. HALIKOWSKI photographer Jack something along the way. Of course, our list is just the beginning. There are many until Arizona’s Centennial in February 2012, but Arizona Transportation Board Dykinga has made a Chairman other landmarks in Arizona, including Piestewa Peak. after a few beers in Sedona, Scott was willing to ROBERT M. MONTOYA living by blending his Although it’s best known for its geographic prominence, the rugged mountain give us a sneak preview. Vice Chairman photojournalistic style WILLIAM J. FELDMEIER It’s an impressive collection, and the photo- Members with large-scale land- FELIPE ANDRES ZUBIA scape photography. A graphs will eventually appear in galleries around BARBARA ANN LUNDSTROM the state. But that’s not why Baxter has spent VICTOR M. FLORES Tucson resident who STEPHEN W. CHRISTY three years and more than $100,000 of his own KELLY O. ANDERSON lives at the base of the money on the project. As Kelly Kramer writes: Santa Catalina Moun- Arizona Highways® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published If you like what you see in this monthly by the Arizona Department of Transportation. tains, Dykinga says “For Baxter, it isn’t about the exhibitions or his Subscription price: $24 a year in the U.S., $44 outside the U.S. Single copy: $3.99 U.S. Call800-543-5432 . Subscrip- magazine every month, check name in lights. It’s about maintaining a piece of tion cor­respon­dence and change of address information: Arizona offers people Arizona Highways, P.O. Box 433124, Palm Coast, FL 32143- out Arizona Highways Television, Arizona history.” 3124. Periodical postage paid at Phoenix, AZ, and at ad- a chance at solitude. “The reason you live here is for the quality of life. It’s a different ditional mailing office. CANADA POST INTERNATIONAL an Emmy Award-winning pro- Mission accomplished. If you love cowboy his- PUBLICATIONS MAIL PRODUCT (CANADIAN­ DISTRIBU- pace.” In this month’s portfolio, Dykinga’s lens captures a scenic drive near Florence, TION) SALES AGREEMENT NO. 41220511. SEND RETURNS gram hosted by former news tory, you’re going to love this story. If you prefer TO WORLDCOLOR, P.O. BOX 875, WINDSOR, ON N9A a place that epitomizes solitude (see On a Dark Desert Highway ..., page 28). Dykinga 6P2. POST­MASTER: Send address changes to Arizona anchor Robin Sewell. For broad- the history of cowboys and Indians, head to Fort Highways, P.O. Box 433124, Palm Coast, FL 32143-3124. is a longtime contributor to Arizona Highways, and next month he’ll be honored by the Copy­right © 2011 by the Ari­zona Department of Trans­­ cast times, visit our website, Bowie. It’s one of the most beautiful and least- por­­tation. Repro­duc­tion in whole or in part with­­out per- North American Nature Photography Association as Outstanding Nature Photographer mission is prohibited. The magazine does not accept and www.arizonahighways.com, and visited parks in the country. is not responsible for un­solicited ma­ter­ials. of 2011, an award that recognizes his talent behind the lens, as well as his passion for

click the Arizona Highways Televi- ROBERT STIEVE, editor PRODUCED IN THE USA nature and environmental issues.

ARIZONA HIGHWAYS TV sion link on our home page. Follow me on Twitter: www.twitter.com/azhighways. — Interviewed by Allison Oswalt

2 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 3 letters THE JOURNAL 02.11 to the editor people > lodging > photography > history > dining > nature > things to do > > > > [email protected]

FOREIGN DIPLOMACY actually met every busload of hams I would like to offer my sincere that toured his station that weekend. compliments for the special all- I was pleased and impressed with his Equine-imity A horse is a horse, of course, and this photography issue of Arizona Highways accessibility to everyone. spectacular photograph by Scott Baxter [December 2010]. My wife and I were FRED FINKE, CANYONVILLE, OREGON is one of our favorites. The image, which delighted about the beautiful range is included in Baxter’s “100 Years, 100 of photographs of different spots in Ranchers” project (see page 38), illustrates November 2010 Arizona. Many of them are really the noble beauty of an animal that’s played an important role in the history of amazing. We are Dutch and live in it goes off. I see only ugliness and Arizona and the Old West. Information: the Netherlands, a country that has destruction in it. www.100years100ranchers.com quite another kind of nature; it’s also CRISTA WORTHY, LOS ANGELES beautiful, but completely different. We have visited Arizona twice, stay- The cover of the November issue ing with friends in Tucson and mak- is fantastic, as it shows a piece of August 2010 ing many trips with them, but also on Arizona history seen by only a few our own for a couple of weeks. Since adventurous folks almost 55 years SECOND TO ONE ago. The “Then & Now” portfolio was I know that Arizona Highways doesn’t the best new feature to appear in the want to flaunt the greatness of magazine in the last decade. It’s so Arizona too much. And your port- impressive that, as we approach the folio [Branching Out] in the August state’s Centennial, it should be incor- 2010 issue did reflect some pretty big porated into every issue, recalling trees, but I think you missed a golden various views either still available, or opportunity to prove once again lost over the years. that Arizona isn’t the hot, dry, bar- GARY H. SCOTT, CORONA, ARIZONA ren patch of sand that some people imagine. There’s an organization EDITOR’S NOTE: Great suggestion, Gary. In fact, we’re on the same page. Beginning in March 2011, called American Forests that’s the we’ll be presenting a monthly “then & now” combo recorder of the largest tree of each as part of our Centennial coverage. December 2010 species in the United States (www. americanforests.org/resources/big our first visit in 2000, our friends, the trees). It recognizes 733 champion or Golds, have given us a subscription to co-champion trees in their register Arizona Highways. We have had it long covering 637 individual species. The enough to give you this reaction on “Green State” of Ohio, where I live, your very special December issue. has all of 10 championship trees on JAN POSTMA, BRUMMEN, NETHERLANDS the list (pretty pitiful). California has 73 champions for fourth place, THAT DAM COVER September 2010 has 77 for third place, and I’ve put off writing this letter, but feel has 99 for first place. Oops, I missed contact us I need to speak up anyway. I love your A BUNCH OF HAMS second place. That hot, dry, barren If you have magazine, but [the November 2010 I really enjoyed the photos and patch of sand called Arizona has 91 thoughts or cover] is the worst ever, for sure. I’ve information about Barry Goldwater champions and is second in the United comments about anything in visited the Glen Canyon reservoir, as [A Goldwater Family Album] in the States. Now that is worth flaunting. Arizona Highways, I call it, many times, and I’ve hiked September 2010 issue. It brings back By the way, I was born and raised in we’d love to hear from you. We can most of its beautiful side canyons. memories of a trip to the Phoenix area Phoenix, majored in forestry at what be reached at Since the drought began in 2000, for an American Radio Relay League is now Northern Arizona University, editor@arizona highways.com, or it’s amazing how life is returning to Convention at which Barry was the and worked several summers for the by mail at 2039 them. I’m one of those who would featured speaker. He also allowed U.S. Forest Service near Payson and W. Lewis Avenue, Phoenix, AZ love to see it drained, or at least low- tours of his amateur radio station at Kohl’s Ranch. My Arizona Highways 85009. For more ered, and so your cover, to me, is the his home. I took the tour and Barry subscription began in 1964 when I information, visit www.arizonahigh equivalent of a photo of a man with a was there to greet and shake hands graduated from NAU. ways.com. gun to his head — a moment before with the attendees. I understand he PAUL DODDS, ZANESVILLE, OHIO SCOTT BAXTER

4 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 5 THE JOURNAL > people THE JOURNAL > people

basket lined with piñon pitch. work as extras. Susie also performed in My PRATT’S When Susie was perhaps 16, her mother Darling Clementine, and all three appeared became very ill while pregnant with in Cheyenne Autumn. her last child and had to be taken to the Colette Waddell, who recorded the hospital. The family was living in the stories of the entire Yazzie family for a yet- summer shade house at the time. When unpublished book, says Susie was directed the weather grew cold, Susie’s mother had to do the things she normally did: mostly & still not come home. Susie never saw her Q A to get on a horse and ride around. again. But her father returned with a baby At one point, Waddell says, Susie and brother, then wandered off in his grief, her husband had trouble cashing their leaving Susie to care for the baby and all paychecks from the studio and had to Juan the other children. travel to Los Angeles. It may have been the Roque Susie appealed to trader Harry Gould- only time Susie left the reservation. Football ing for help. By then the man the “She was not at all impressed,” Waddell Analyst, called “tall sheep” was coming around says. “She called it the hot country. Can Fox Sports regularly selling groceries and other goods you imagine? She lives in Monument Val- Arizona from his wagon. He kept an eye on the ley and thought Los Angeles was the hot family, giving Susie condensed milk for the country?” As a former NFL player, you’ve traveled all baby and trading rugs she had woven for While she was there, Susie got her over the country. What are some common misconceptions about Arizona? other necessities. He also started bringing name tattooed on her forearm, perhaps The perception of Arizona can be pretty around tourists. so she would remember how to sign her twisted to people who have never been here, Susie posed for photos for the tourists, name. That gave her the ability to execute especially to people in the Midwest. People think it’s the Wild West and that it’s all sa- and eventually began giving weaving dem- contracts, but she didn’t always under- guaros and scorpions. My wife, for example, onstrations. The income helped support stand what she was signing, Waddell says. was hesitant to move here after spending the family, but it was Susie’s marriage that Like the time a photographer came to most of her life in southeastern Michigan. Once she got a taste of desert living, though, finally made her life easier. The work her the reservation and got Susie to sign away she was hooked. husband found off the reservation sup- her rights to the photos he took. Her image What’s your favorite Arizona memory? ported the family, and when he returned ended up on bags of Frito-Lay’s Santa Fe My favorite place in Arizona is A Mountain home he brought wagons, mattresses and Ranch chips. in Tempe, next to Sun Devil Stadium. Just LYNN SANKEY other luxuries. But Waddell believes Susie’s real joy looking at the butte brings back so many memories. We used to run up that sucker magazines, including Arizona Highways. Her When Goulding convinced John Ford has been hosting the tourists she refers to three times in one workout for conditioning. The Matriarch of Monument Valley image has even graced bags of Frito-Lay’s to use Monument Valley as a backdrop as visitors. It represents hard work, dedication and com- Although she’s a local legend who’s been featured in movies, potato chips. for Ford’s Western films, Susie, Tully and “That’s what keeps her going strong,” mitment for me. Susie Yazzie has lived a traditional Navajo life for close to 100 Yet for all her celebrity, Yazzie has lived a Effie were among the Navajos hired to Waddell says. “It’s what keeps her alive.” Where’s the best place to watch an ASU traditional Navajo life for close to 100 years football game? years — raising sheep, carding wool, weaving rugs — and her Sun Devil Stadium, of course, but I love hogan has been a frequent stop on guided tours of Monument — raising sheep, carding wool, weaving University of Phoenix Stadium, too. We went Valley for decades. rugs — all without the benefit of electricity to the Super Bowl there when the Giants beat or running water. She’s a medicine woman the Patriots. I will never forget watching Tom Petty play at halftime. By KATHY MONTGOMERY of sorts, a midwife who delivered two of her After you’ve wrapped up a game-day broad- own grandchildren, and a hand trembler, cast, where do you like to grab a bite to eat? adept at the ancient Navajo practice used to The Native New Yorker at Broadway and SUSIE YAZZIE SITS BEFORE her upright Nodding, satisfied, Susie plucks a hand- diagnose illness or find lost objects. Dorsey in Tempe. It was there when I played loom on a low stool, regal as a queen on her ful of wool from the fluffy mound near The oldest girl of eight children, Susie’s at ASU, way back when the wings cost 10 cents. It was a family tradition to go after a throne. On this day, the “grandmother of her stool. She cards it, combing the wool Navajo name roughly translates to “fair- game, and it still is. My favorite wings are Monument Valley” wears until the fibers are clean and orderly. Then skinned woman.” It was her late husband, honey-hot and hot. MONUMENT a pink satin skirt, purple she pulls the wool off into a fluffy roll Tully, who gave Susie her Anglo name. If you could have an Arizona celebrity as your VALLEY velveteen blouse and and feeds it onto the tip of a long, wooden Though the exact date of her birth is next-door neighbor, who would it be? I would like to live next to Kevin McCabe. chunky turquoise jewelry. Her thinning spindle. Rubbing the shaft of the spindle unknown, Susie was born in the spring, Kevin and I go way back to my ASU days, and silver hair is tied at the base of her neck in against her thigh, Susie works the wool sometime around 1917. Her birthday is cel- he’s always been a great person to be around. the traditional hourglass shape. into a spool of thick yarn. ebrated on tax day. Now that I’m an adult, too, we can actually sit At the sight of visitors, the creases in Although she speaks little English, Susie She learned to weave as a young girl. around, talk football and drink beer. Back then, that might have been a major problem. Susie’s age-spotted face deepen into a smile. has welcomed a great many visitors. Her Her mother was often sick, so Susie took Three words to describe Arizona? She exchanges a few words in Navajo with hogan has been a frequent stop on guided on most of the family chores. She tended Proud, strong, beautiful. her daughter, Effie. Susie wants to know tours of Monument Valley for decades. sheep and scaled the surrounding sand- — Dave Pratt is the author of about the guests Effie has brought. She She has appeared in John Ford movies, as stone mesas for rainwater that collected in Behind the Mic: 30 Years in Radio asks if they’ve been there before. well as many books, documentaries and depressions, carrying it back in a sumac Susie Yazzie works at her loom, creating a traditional Navajo rug. | STEPHANOS ANTONIADES

6 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 7 THE JOURNAL > lodging THEJOURNAL > photography

sion ... well, it doesn’t get any better than this. Among other things, the rejuvenation includes 64 new or redesigned cottages, Some Light on the Subject a new guest arrival building, a swimming “Painting with light” is a technique we’ve covered in this column before. pool, a redesign of the spa, and the addition In the past it was focused on small-scale subjects, but this month, THE RIGHT LIGHT of an outdoor wine bar called The Veranda. thanks to some bigger flashlights, the sky’s the limit. If you’d like to try The latter makes a great complement to By JEFF KIDA, photo editor “painting with light,” the acclaimed L’Auberge Restaurant on here are a couple Oak Creek, which was featured in Arizona of things to keep in Highways’ 2008 edition of Best Restaurants in mind: First, start with Arizona and is a AAA Four-Diamond award a small, manageable winner. If you’ve never been, the accolades subject. Second, be aware that different are justified. With the possible exception of light sources produce a picnic table at Phantom Ranch, there isn’t different colors a more scenic place in the state to enjoy a of light (color Photo meal. And nothing against Phantom Ranch, temperature). but you won’t find David Schmidt at the bot- A flashlight Tip tom of the Grand Canyon. Schmidt, who serves as the executive chef at L’Auberge, works with guests to prepare personalized tasting menus that incorporate their preferences and dietary requirements. Every course is then carefully paired with one of the restaurant’s 1,000-plus wine selec- tions. Welcome to L’Auberge de Sedona. Gourmet cuisine notwithstanding, it’s the Mother Nature that stands out most at the resort, and prior to the renovation, it was the creekside cottages that got most of the

attention. There’s a reason for that. They’re JEFF KIDA idyllically situated among the cottonwoods that uses a traditional and sycamores that shelter Oak Creek, and tungsten bulb will the natural surroundings are more impres- bathe your subject sive than those in the South of France. in warm yellow-gold light. A newer LED If you want lush, request a cottage on the flashlight produces a waterfront. If you want views, opt for one of much cooler blue light, the new Vista Cottages. Here’s why: Floor-

JEFF KIDA giving your artwork a to-ceiling windows offer panoramic views of completely different Sedona’s world-famous red rocks, including feel. On the Waterfront Giant’s Thumb and Elephant Rock. And like For 25 years, L’Auberge de Sedona has been impressing guests with its the cottages below, the Vista Cottages are luxury accommodations along the banks of Oak Creek. Now, with a roomy — ranging from 750 to 1,000 square $25 million upgrade ... well, it doesn’t get any better than this. feet — and they’re loaded with amenities By ROBERT STIEVE such as private open-air showers, 42-inch LCD TVs, gas fireplaces, luxurious linens, Fort Bowie National Historic Site | RANDY PRENTICE MONET COULD HAVE LIVED anywhere. He chose a spot along the Seine in the South of Molton Brown bath products and more.

France. It’s hard to argue with his choice. His estate in Giverny ranks as one of the most However, the best thing about a Vista Cot- ADDITIONAL READING: spectacular settings in all of Europe. Had he lived in Arizona, the French impressionist tage is its expansive redwood deck. It’s there TO CAPTURE THIS IMAGE, Tucson-based photographer Randy Prentice perched his Canon 5D MK II digital Look for our book, Arizona Highways Photography would have undoubtedly been drawn to an equally spectacular setting along you’ll be inspired by the views. It’s there camera with a 24 mm tilt/shift lens on a sturdy tripod. While setting up the shot with my assistance, our tests Guide, available at book- SEDONA the banks of Oak Creek. And once he got there, he would have chosen to live you’ll want to eat your dinner. And it’s there indicated that the longest exposure we could use would be 30 seconds. A longer exposure would have revealed stores and www.arizona highways.com/books. at L’Auberge de Sedona. The resort, which was rated “One of America’s 75 you’ll set up your camera. Unless, of course, movement in the stars, rendering them streaks rather than pinpoints of light. As daylight waned, we worked Top Hotels” by Conde Nast Traveler, occupies one of Arizona’s premier pieces of waterfront you’re like Monet, with 2D Cell Maglite flashlights, which produce tungsten-balanced (warm) light, knowing they’d cast the L’Auberge de Sedona is ONLINE property. in which case you’ll walls of Fort Bowie in a warm, golden-brown color to contrast with the inky, starry sky. Using the LCD, along located at 301 L’Auberge For more photography Although a Motel 6 could thrive in such a location, L’Auberge is anything but. For 25 years, pull out an easel. Lane in Sedona. For more with the histogram on the camera, we were able to dial in pleasing compositions with correct exposures. This tips, visit www.arizona the luxury resort has been impressing guests with a seamless blend of indoor-outdoor living and Talk about a room information, call 928- photo was shot at 1600 ISO for 30 seconds at f/6.3. Note the Big Dipper hanging out in the center of the sky — a highways.com/photog 282-1661 or visit www. raphy. all of the amenities of a French country lodge. And now, with a $25 million upgrade and expan- with a view. lauberge.com. pretty good capture for a couple of old-school photographers armed with nothing more than a pair of flashlights.

8 february 2011 ONLINE For more lodging in Arizona, visit www.arizonahighways.com/lodging. www.arizonahighways.com 9 THEJOURNAL > history THEJOURNAL > history

Practicing medicine in the Wild West This month required courage and in history creativity — a military ■ , the surgeon seldom trav- eled without his ampu- chief, was arrested tation kit, and dentists on February 4, 1861, and doctors regularly by the U.S. Army for raiding a Southern prescribed such odd Arizona ranch. He medicines as quinine, later escaped and laudanum, chewing declared war on white settlers and tobacco and even soldiers, marking arsenic to “cure” their the start of the Ari- patients. They rode zona Indian Wars, which lasted for 25 through rough coun- years. photo flashback try to mining camps, ■ As part of the towns and ranches, Glen Canyon Dam dodging ambushes project, Glen Can- Cave Men and attacks by outlaws yon Bridge opened During the 1930s, hundreds of on February 20, members of the Civilian and Indians alike. And 1959. At the time, Conservation Corps worked on many worked with the bridge was the creating and improving public extremely limited highest steel-arch projects in Arizona, leaving a bridge in the world,

COURTESY SHARLOT HALL MUSEUM solid legacy of bridges, roads, resources to raise the rising 700 feet standard of care. above the Colorado buildings and trails throughout Some notable doctors started their River. The cost to the state. One of those projects was at Vail’s Colossal Cave, What the Doctors Ordered medical careers at Arizona military posts. build the bridge was $4 million. where workers constructed the With Mayo Clinic, Barrow Neurological In 1876, Dr. Walter Reed served at Fort ■ entrance, lighting, trails, retain- Institute, et al. in our backyard, Arizona is Lowell, and later, at Fort Apache. Accord- On February 21, 1930, murderess Eva ing walls, handrails and build- a mecca for medical attention. Back in the ing to Dr. Robert Kravetz, author of Health- Dugan was hanged ings. Over the years, thousands Territorial days, however, the best a patient seekers in Arizona, Reed spent a year at a at Arizona State of visitors to Colossal Cave could hope for was a healthy dose of quinine, mosquito-infested post on Rillito Creek, Prison in Florence. Mountain Park have discovered During the botched the cave’s natural wonders and laudanum, chewing tobacco or even arsenic. studying problems created by the insects. execution, Dugan the history of the adjacent La By SALLY BENFORD “He recommended a later hour for reveille was decapitated, re- Posta Quemada Ranch, as well and noted that malaria patients were sulting in the state as the area’s surrounding switching to the beauty. Information: 520-647- IN THE MID- TO LATE 19TH CENTURY, cemeteries throughout responding well to quinine.” The opportu- gas chamber as an the West held the graves of settlers, soldiers and pioneers who nity for observation on the Arizona frontier execution method, 7275 or www.colossalcave.com had died from almost anything but natural causes. Military served Reed well — he later proved that believing it to be more humane. battles, mining accidents, gunfights, bites and some illnesses, such as yellow fever, were TOMBSTONE stings from poisonous reptiles and insects, and mosquito-borne diseases. diseases such as cholera and malaria were a few Like Reed, Dr. George Goodfellow practiced in Arizona. Dur- of the dangers that plagued Territorial Arizona, and at the time, ing his time in Tombstone, he worked to improve medical practices. medical standards were lax to say the least. When a hospital of “the finest quality” opened in Tombstone in 1885, Almost anyone could claim to be a doctor, so the Territory was Goodfellow served as its director and instituted instrument steriliza- filled with its share of quacks, snake-oil salesmen and “sawbones.” tion practices. He also performed the first appendectomy in Arizona. When it came to dentists, Doc Holliday may have been the most famous tooth-yanker in Arizona, even though he didn’t practice his trade in the Territory. Some doctors acted as dentists, pulling teeth 50 years ago and prescribing medicines that contained alcohol, narcotics or a IN ARIZONA HIGHWAYS combination of both. Eventually, as technology advanced in the early In February 1961, Glen Canyon Dam was 1900s, the number of dental practitioners increased, and modern still stirring controversy, and our issue that offices included reclining chairs, a self-cleaning spittoon, dental month offered a progress report on its con- struction. The issue also featured Coconino instruments and an electric drill. An 1896 edition of the Arizona County, from Flagstaff and Williams to Oak Gazette published a dentist’s ad that offered silver fillings for $1.50, Creek and the Grand Canyon. gold fillings for $2 and extractions for 50 cents — an amount that was marked down to 25 cents on Saturdays, which, even in those days,

was a bargain. COURTESY COLOSSAL CAVE MOUNTAIN PARK

10 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 11 THEJOURNAL > dining THEJOURNAL > nature

salads and discussing some sort of peer- behavior unique to burrowing owls. review process. One more patron, whose hair Hoo Are You? Hoo, Hoo, Hoo, Hoo? Turns out, their desert-floor diet isn’t only is monsoon gray, is telling her dining com- They’re not the rock stars of the owl kingdom — that label probably belongs good for their stomachs, it also helps control panion about the times her father took her to to the spotted owls — but if they could, burrowing owls would smash a the population of tropical house geckos and the depot as a child to watch the trains. guitar over the heads of any obsessed intruder who tried invading their field mice, especially when the owls have a The bronzes of Wyatt Earp and Doc Hol- underground spaces. BY JODI CISMAN family of four to five owlets to feed. liday are 120 steps away. They’re standing Nesting season begins in late March or guard over the place, just a short distance or residents of outlying areas such as Because of the nature of their subterranean early April, when female owls begin gather- northwest of the station, where Earp shot FLitchfield Park, Bullhead City, Oro Valley homes, these little creatures are drawn to ing a wide variety of organic materials to and killed Frank Stilwell on March 20, 1882. and many others, the sight of a burrowing sparsely vegetated, dry grasslands and agri- build their nests. The most common compo- History has it that Earp was still dealing owl perched on a fence post or scurrying cultural rangelands. nent is mammal dung. Researchers believe with his enemies after the October 26, 1881, through a plot of seemingly barren land is In Arizona, habitats are continually threat- the dung helps control the microclimate of shootout near the O.K. Corral in Tombstone. pretty common. ened by land development. When bulldozers the burrow and might even attract insects for The busiest part of today’s restored Although adult owls exude a kind of self- begin bulldozing, the burrows become tombs the owls to feed on. depot, where Amtrak trains arrive and assuredness, standing tall on watchtowers because the owls tend to recede farther into Female owls lay one or two eggs a day depart six days a week and Union Pacific to protect their burrows, they’re actually the ground instead of fleeing. When the until they collect a clutch of about nine eggs. giants clatter past 24/7, is the south end. quite small, rising a mere 10 inches from land is left intact, however, desert dwellings At that point they spend a month incubating That’s where Maynards draws tourists the ground and weighing only 6 ounces, on provide an abundance of insects, rodents their eggs while the males tend to the hunting. and locals to shop in the market, eat at the average. and small amphibians that make the owls’ And the system seems to be working. Bur- kitchen or relax at the adjoining coffee and But don’t let their size fool you. The owls mouths water. Their favorite insects are rowing owls are to rural Arizona what pigeons espresso bar, which switches to wine, beer might be small, but they carry the proverbial crunchy scarab beetles, stinging scorpions are to the inner city. They’ve been spotted and cocktails by late afternoon. big stick. Their hoo-hoos, rasps, chucks, chat- and crispy crickets. nesting on irrigation canals, golf courses and The market and kitchen is named for ters and screams can be heard from miles On occasion, they treat themselves to even near airports, which only seems natural Maynard Dixon, an early 20th century away, and when threatened, the owlets prickly pear and cholla cactus fruit, which is a for such self-assured little creatures. painter and illustrator who painted four make a low, rattlesnake-like buzz to warn off murals at the current train station, which predators and alert the adults. was built in 1907 and replaced the wooden Burrowing owls thrive in most states west depot built between 1880 and 1881. of the Mississippi River, but unlike other owl Maynards Market sells a variety of unique species, they live underground in a series food and other products, many of them pro- of tunnels that can span a 2-mile radius. duced by Arizonans. The kitchen serves break- fast, lunch and dinner seven days a week, and there are special events throughout the year. At lunch, you can order a Cuban pork nature sandwich with Gruyére cheese, pickles, factoid jalapeños, caramelized onions and lime juice. There’s also imported tuna, which is served on a grilled baguette. (Wouldn’t any tuna in Tucson be imported?)

JEFF KIDA At dinner, there’s organic eggplant that’s marinated, charbroiled and served with mushroom sauté. There’s roasted tomato On the Right Tracks risotto and watercress salad, or grilled Located in downtown Tucson’s bustling train depot, Maynards Scottish salmon with olive oil, herbs and Market & Kitchen is turning heads with its sandwiches, organic wine sauce. entrées and seating in the sun. The desserts are homemade daily, and By BRUCE ITULE include flourless chocolate hazelnut cake BRUCE D. TAUBERT and pomegranate panna cotta. Toad-ally Awesome MOVE OVER, WYATT AND DOC, there’s some new bronze at the restored Southern Pacific As for the customers, they range from Known for being creatures of the night, Railroad Station at the of downtown Tucson. In addition to your sculpted images, toddlers to elders on canes. Some people are Great Plains toads are most commonly there’s a splash of bronze on the skin of the many al fresco diners at May- in suits, others in shorts. associated with their loud cries after a rainstorm. During those wet periods, the TUCSON nards Market & Kitchen. There are to-go order- Maynards Market & Kitchen is located at male toads let loose a breeding call that The outdoor area between the depot and the tracks is a popular place. At one ers in a hurry and Wi- 400 N. Toole Avenue has been likened to the baaaing of sheep. table, a woman in a blue tank top and shorts is sunning her feet, which she’s placed on top of Fiers who aren’t. in Tucson. For more In Arizona, Great Plains toads can be information, call 520- found hiding in deep, moist burrows and her flip-flops. At another table, two young mothers, their babies in strollers, are visiting and Go figure, Wyatt. 545-0577 or visit www. under flat rocks, biding their time until

laughing. One says, “They also serve wine.” Nearby, three women in business suits are eating There’s even Wi-Fi. maynardsmarket.com. the next storm. BRUCE D. TAUBERT

12 february 2011 ONLINE For more dining in Arizona, visit www.arizonahighways.com/dining. www.arizonahighways.com 13

THEJOURNAL > things to do TOM BROWNOLD 24th Annual Winterfest FEBRUARY 1-28 FLAGSTAFF Celebrating winter in Arizona, this festival features more than 100 events, including cross-country and downhill skiing, ice-skating, Yellow Totem by David Manje. 48 x 36.” Oil On Canvas snow sculpture, snow softball, a parade, con- How I Spent My certs and art shows. Information: 800-842- Winter Vacation Joan Cawley Gallery “If you are looking for creativity, the unique, the beautiful 7293 or www.flagstaffarizona.org Take a little piece of the desert home with you in an and the culturally relevant that depict the Southwest, Arizona-inspired pendant, exclusively at French on Main. please wander in and see our diverse blend of artists; Designer/owner French Thompson provides an ever- Festival of the Arts from the internationally acclaimed to some amazing changing and plentiful array of the exotic, sure-to-be- FEBRUARY 10-14 TUBAC

ROSALIE O’CONNOR emerging talents.” noticed work of award-winning artists in this jewel of a Don Quixote This is the major arts event of the year for jewelry store in downtown Scottsdale. David Manje - Opening Reception: April 7, 2011, 7-9 pm an already art-centric town. The longest FEBRUARY 11-13 PHOENIX French Designer Jeweler Joan cawley gallery running event of its kind in the Southwest, 7148 E. Main Street, Scottsdale, AZ 85251 7135 E. Main St., Scottsdale, AZ 85251 Ballet Arizona celebrates its 25th anniversary season with a lively ballet this month. Filled with this festival showcases the work of hun- 480.994.4717 480.947.3548 technical dancing, elaborate sets, a sparkling score and Cupid, gypsies and Spanish dances, dreds of artists. A food court and musical www.frenchonmain.com www.jcgltd.com/gallery Don Quixote is a festive and colorful comedy. It’s one of many great performances that will be entertainment round out the event. Infor- performed during the silver anniversary of this innovative ballet company. Information: 602-381- mation: 520-398-2704 or www.tubacaz.com/ 1096 or www.balletaz.org festival.asp Gem & Mineral Show FEBRUARY 11-14 TUCSON Artistic Inspirations in Scottsdale Each February, Tucson transforms into a bazaar with displays of “nature’s art” lining the streets and filling exhibit halls. Join thousands of people at the “world’s largest treasure hunt,” where you can pur- chase meteorites, lustrous gems and minerals, jewelry and fossils at more than 50 sites around town. Information: 520-624-1817 or www. visittucson.org Celebration of Fine Art Photography Workshop The Celebration of Fine Art is the place for art lovers and artists to connect. 100 juried artists come from around The vibrant culture of the Tucson barrio shows in its colorful door- the country make the signature big white tents their tem- ways, which are often surrounded by brightly painted adobe walls porary home for 10 weeks each year. The relaxed atmo- and potted agaves, cactuses and tropical plants. Make plans to join sphere and quality art work is sure to please any art lover. photographer celebration oF Fine art

Edward McCain R.D. PRIDEAUX Scottsdale ArtWalk January 15 through March 27, 2011 for the Arizona The art is magnificent. The entertainment is unexpect- SE corner of Scottsdale Rd. and Mayo Blvd., Scottsdale, AZ Highways Tucson Gold Rush Days ed. The people watching is unsurpassed. It’s Scottsdale (just off the Loop 101 at Exit 34 in the big white tents) Barrio Photo FEBRUARY 10-13 WICKENBURG ArtWalk — since 1976 one of the Valley’s greatest cul- 480.443.7695 Workshop, which More than 145 years ago, Henry Wickenburg discovered gold in the tural traditions — every Thursday from 7-9 pm. www.celebrateart.com takes place hills near the town that now bears his name. Celebrate Wickenburg’s Best of Scottsdale Month — February March 26-27. gold-mining legacy during this annual festival, which boasts a classic Glass Act ArtWalk — February 10 Information: car show, a carnival, a barbecue, a pancake breakfast, gold-panning, 888-790-7042 an Old West shootout, arts and crafts and a parade, as well as a scottsDale arts District or www.friendsof concert by John Michael Montgomery. Information: 800-942-5242 or www.ScottsdaleGalleries.com Scottsdale ® ARI PLOSKER azhighways.com www.wickenburgchamber.com Bring your passion for life.

14 february 2011 Visit ScottsdaleLuxuryExperience.com or call 800-839-9567 for more information PIECES

OF HISTORYLike most places, Arizona has a colorful history, and much of it has been memorialized with historic markers. They’re interesting and informational, but we know that none of you are going to stop for a history lesson on your way to somewhere else. So, we’re suggesting you make the markers a destination, not a pit stop. Begin with Big Dry Wash, and then make your way down our list. by norm tessman

“History, although sometimes made up of the few acts of the great, is more often shaped by the many acts of the small.” --- MARK YOST

Cameron Suspension Bridge, photographed using only moonlight for illumination, casts eerie shadows under a starry sky. | SHANE MCDERMOTT

16 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 17 1 BIG DRY WASH 3 CAMP CRITTENDEN it was listed on the National Register of Historic Places, and Mogollon Rim Sonoita now ranks as one of the best-preserved and most unique adobe On July 17, 1882, 58 Apaches fled the San Carlos Apache Indian Named for Thomas Crittenden, a Union hero of the Civil War, structures in Arizona. Reservation. U.S. cavalry troops and Apache scouts chased the “hos- Camp Crittenden was built in 1867 as a base from which to battle the DIRECTIONS: The home is located at 820 S. Farmer Avenue in Tempe. tiles” to the top of the Mogollon Rim and into the pine-forested Apaches. The camp was located near Fort Buchanan, which Union INFORMATION: Tempe Arizona Tourism Office, 866-914-1052 or highlands. Warned by scouts of an ambush, the soldiers flanked the forces had burned to the ground in 1861 to keep it from falling to the www.tempetourism.com Apaches, killing at least 20 of them — the remaining Apaches escaped advancing Confederates. Although troops from Camp Crittenden saw during a blinding hailstorm. The Battle of Big Dry Wash was the last considerable action from 1870 to 1871, they abandoned the fort on June Apache-versus-Army battle in Arizona, and was likely fueled by the 1, 1873. The physical remains of Camp Crittenden and Fort Buchanan 7 FORT LOWELL cavalry’s 1881 attack on a ghost dance along Cibecue Creek. During are on private property, but the public may view Camp Crittenden’s Tucson that attack, the cavalry killed the revered prophet Nock-ay-det-klinne. historic marker. Fort Lowell Park, which was the site of the supply depot The General Springs/Mogollon Rim marker describing the battle is DIRECTIONS: From Sonoita, drive west on State Route 82 for 3 miles to and departmental headquarters for Southern Arizona during located 7 miles south of the actual site, while a stone marker on the Milepost 29.5. The marker is on the right side of the road. the Apache Wars, includes the sutler’s store, officers’ quarters southern end of the site lists the soldiers’ names. INFORMATION: Nogales-Santa Cruz County Chamber of Commerce, 520- and remains of the guardhouse. Established in 1862 near Tuc- DIRECTIONS: From Payson, drive north on State Route 87 for approximately 287-3685 or www.thenogaleschamber.com Farmer-Goodwin Mansion | CRAIG SMITH son’s present downtown, the fort was occupied by California 28 miles to Forest Road 300 and turn right. Continue on FR 300 for Volunteers who had captured the town from Texas Confed- 12 miles to the marker. 6 FARMER-GOODWIN MANSION erates. In 1873, the post was moved 7 miles northeast to its present INFORMATION: , Payson Ranger District, 928-474- 4 COUNCIL ROCKS Tempe location. More than 250 officers and enlisted soldiers were stationed 7900 or www.fs.usda.gov/tonto East of Benson In 1886, Hiram Bradford Farmer, the principal and sole instruc- at Fort Lowell, but the need for the post declined after ’s Approximately 4 miles southeast of this marker — near Dragoon tor at the Territorial Normal School in Tempe — now Arizona State surrender in 1886. The Army closed the post in 1891. There are three Springs — is the site where most historians believe Cochise, the Chir- University — purchased a one-and-a-half-story, three-year-old Vic- historic markers at Fort Lowell. icahua Apache chief, and U.S. Army General Oliver O. Howard ratified torian-styled adobe home. His wife began taking in female boarding DIRECTIONS: The Fort Lowell Museum is located at 2900 N. Craycroft Road a treaty that ended years of warfare. In 1872, Cochise surrendered to students, and the first ASU dormitory was born. Mrs. Libbie Good- in Tucson. the Army, stipulating that his people’s reservation be located in the win, wife of former Rough Rider, Territorial legislator and prominent INFORMATION: Arizona Historical Society, Fort Lowell Museum, 520-885- , and that his trusted friend, Tom Jeffords, would Tempe rancher J.C. Goodwin, inherited the property in 1902. In 1972, 3832 become their agent. Fort Lowell Historic District | RANDY PRENTICE DIRECTIONS: From Benson, drive east on for 13.5 miles to the rest area exit on the right at Milepost 320. The marker is on the left side. INFORMATION: Cochise County Tourism Council, 800-862-5273 or www. explorecochise.com

5 DEL RIO SPRINGS North of Prescott Camp Whipple, named for Brigadier General Amiel Weeks Whipple, was established at Del Rio Springs in November 1863. When fighting between miners and the local Yavapai Indians increased near

Cameron Suspension Bridge | SHANE MCDERMOTT Prescott, the fort and its garrison were moved south to the banks of . In January 1864, Territorial Secretary Richard McCor- mick and Judge Joseph Pratt Allyn arrived at Fort Whipple with a 2 CAMERON SUSPENSION BRIDGE California infantry to help defend the fort against Yavapai attacks. The Cameron Territorial government operated from the site for five months that year. The Cameron Suspension Bridge, which was built in 1911 in Then, in 1909, the AT&SF Railroad and Fred Harvey Co. bought the response to the dangers of flooding and quicksand at Tanner’s Cross- property to supply milk and eggs to Fred Harvey restaurants and as a ing on the Mormon Honeymoon Trail, was once a one-lane bridge for winter home for the company’s famed Grand Canyon mules. vehicles across the Little Gorge. Today, the bridge DIRECTIONS: From Prescott, drive north on State Route 89 for 22 miles to is used to carry an oil pipeline. It was named for Ralph Cameron, a the marker, which is located on the east side of the road at Milepost 333. Grand Canyon miner, trail developer and United States senator. In INFORMATION: Prescott Convention and Visitors Bureau, 928-778-2929 or 1916, Hubert and C.D. Richardson built a trading post near the south www.prescottvisitors.com end of the bridge. That post, Historic Cameron Trading Post, still exists today. DIRECTIONS: From the intersection of State Route 64 and U.S. Route 89 in Cameron, drive north on U.S. 89 for 1.7 miles to the bridge. INFORMATION: Historic Cameron Trading Post, 800-338-7385 or www. camerontradingpost.com

18 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 19 8 FORT VERDE 9 FORT BOWIE Camp Verde Southeast of Willcox Originally known as Camp Lincoln, Fort Verde was Major Gen- Fort Bowie, which was the site of the Bascom Affair and the eral ’s headquarters during his 1870s campaign in the Battle of , also served as home base for the military opera- Tonto Basin. At the time, Anglo settlers were fighting the Dilzhe’e tions that led to Geronimo’s surrender. In addition, many of the battles Apaches and Yavapai Apaches who lived on the rich lands along the for control of Apache Spring occurred near Fort Bowie. The military . Despite an existing reservation, the government forced operated the settlement between 1862 and 1894, and today, the National 1,400 Yavapai and Apache Indians from the Verde Valley in 1875, push- Park Service protects the fort’s remaining adobe walls as a National ing them onto the San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation. Construction Historic Site. It’s one of Arizona’s least-visited but best-known land- of 22 new buildings around a parade ground began in 1871, and Camp marks. Verde was renamed Fort Verde. The buildings were abandoned in 1891. DIRECTIONS: From Willcox, drive southeast on State Route 186 for 20 miles DIRECTIONS: Fort Verde State Historic Park is located at 125 E. Holloman to the Fort Bowie turn off. From there, drive 8 miles on the unpaved road to Street in Camp Verde. the Fort Bowie Trailhead. The hike to the ruins is 1.5 miles one way. INFORMATION: Fort Verde State Historic Park, 928-567-3275 or www. INFORMATION: Fort Bowie National Historic Site, 520-847-2500 or www. azstateparks.com/parks/fove nps.gov/fobo

Fort Verde State Historic Park (left) and Fort Bowie National Historic Site (below) played key roles in Arizona’s Indian Wars.

LEFT: Fort Verde State Historic Park BELOW: Fort Bowie National Historic Site JEFF KIDA MARK LIPCZYNSKI

20 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 21 10 FATHER EDOUARD GERARD 13 LEHNER MAMMOTH KILL SITE Phoenix Sierra Vista In 1881, Father Edouard Gerard founded the first Catholic Church Approximately 11,000 years ago, Paleo-Indians killed and butch- in Phoenix. As the first priest ordained in Arizona, Gerard tended to ered at least nine immature mammoths (North American elephants) the Catholic people of Phoenix and Florence, where he was pastor of at this site. The animals had probably been drinking at a small creek. the Church of the Assumption from 1877 to 1885. He also served as Vicar Among the other bones found at Lehner Mammoth Kill Site were General of the Vicariate Apostolic and Diocese of Tucson. It’s there that those of tapirs, horses and bison, which led to the site’s designation as the French missionary is buried — in Holy Hope Cemetery. He died in a National Historic Landmark in 1967. A short interpretive trail with Prescott on Christmas Day 1936. educational panels crosses the site. DIRECTIONS: The Father Edouard Gerard marker is located at St. Mary’s DIRECTIONS: From Sierra Vista, drive east on State Route 90 for approx­ Basilica, 231 N. Third Street in downtown Phoenix. imately 3.8 miles to Moson Road. Turn left onto Moson Road and continue INFORMATION: St. Mary’s Basilica, 602-354-2100 or www.stmarysbasilica.org for 0.2 miles to the site. INFORMATION: Bureau of Land Management, 520-458-3559 or www.blm. gov/az 11 INDIAN GARDENS Sedona Indian Gardens is the site of the first known Anglo settlement 14 MINERAL PARK in the Sedona area. Pioneer James Thompson built a cabin on the site Kingman and cultivated the gardens until his death in 1917. Prior to Thompson’s Only a few foundations and a cemetery mark what was once the arrival, local Yavapai Indians had grown corn and squash in the fertile largest town and the county seat of Mohave County. In 1872, approxi- soil that lines Oak Creek. The historic marker that pays homage to mately 700 residents called Mineral Park home, but after 1883, an Atlan- Thompson sits beneath a big tree in the shadow of Sedona’s world- tic and Pacific Railway shortcut to Kingman slowly wiped it out — the famous red rocks. town eventually lost its population and its position as the county seat. DIRECTIONS: From the roundabout intersection of State Route 89A and State Because the remains of Mineral Park are located on private property, Route 179 in Sedona, drive north for approximately 4 miles on SR 89A. The visitors must obtain permission from the current mine owners before marker stands beneath a large tree on the east side of the road, across from entering the site. Indian Gardens Store & Deli. DIRECTIONS: From Kingman, drive north on U.S. Route 93 to County Road INFORMATION: Sedona Tourism Bureau and Chamber of Commerce, 928-282- 255 (Milepost 59). The marker is located to the right of the intersection. 7722 or www.visitsedona.com INFORMATION: Golden Valley Chamber of Commerce, 928-565-3311 or www.goldenvalleychamber.com 12 LAST CAMP OF HI JOLLY Quartzsite 15 MORMON HONEYMOON TRAIL Turkish immigrant Haiji Ali, also known as Hi Jolly, managed the North of Cameron camels of the 1857 Beale Expedition, which scouted a road route across Until the early 20th century, Mormon couples who wanted to Arizona. Although the camels were well-suited to Arizona’s desert ter- get married in the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints temple rain, the U.S. War Department abandoned their use and eventually sold would travel to Saint George, Utah, for the ceremony. Many honey- or released them. Ali kept a few of the beasts for himself and used them mooners later described the three-month wagon journey as one of the to haul freight between Yuma and Tucson. Meanwhile, several camels best events of their lives. The eastern route ran through Safford and escaped. The copper dromedary that sits atop the Hi Jolly Monument followed the Valley westward. From there, it turned north- might represent a camel known as Red Ghost, a legendary derelict ward through Fort Apache and Show Low, crossed the Little Colorado camel that wandered the desert with a corpse upon its back, thrashing River at present-day Winslow, and crossed the Colorado River at Lees whatever humans crossed its path. When Ali died in 1902, the Arizona Ferry. The western route, through Phoenix, Mesa and Tempe, headed Department of Transportation erected the camel-topped monument north through Fort McDowell to join the other branch of the trail at and buried Ali with the ashes of the last government-owned camel. Winslow. Today, a marker honoring the Mormon Honeymoon Trail can DIRECTIONS: From the Quartzsite exit (Exit 17) off Interstate 10, drive a be found just north of Cameron. short distance to the west end of town, turn right (north) onto Hi Jolly Road DIRECTIONS: From Cameron, drive north on U.S. Route 89 for 23 miles to the and drive a quarter-mile to Hi Jolly Cemetery. The Last Camp of Hi Jolly marker. Monument and its historic marker are located at the flagpole. INFORMATION: Arizona State Parks, 928-567-3275 or www.azstateparks. INFORMATION: Town of Quartzsite, 928-927-4333 or www.ci.quartzsite.az.us com/trails/historic/trail_09

St. Mary’s Basilica | CRAIG SMITH

22 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 23 “There’s an old saying about those who forget history. I don’t remember it, but it’s good.” — STEPHEN COLBERT

16 NAVAJO COUNTY COURTHOUSE Holbrook In 1879, government officials divided Yavapai County, which was enormous, into six smaller counties. One of those, Apache County, was further split to cre- ate Navajo County, and Holbrook was named its county seat. There, in 1895, the county built a huge courthouse with pre- assembled, escape-proof jail cells in the basement. Four years later, the infamous execution of murderer George Smiley took place at the courthouse. Legend has it that Smiley’s ghost paces the court- house, along with the spirit of a woman known only as “Mary,” who died in one of the cells. Today, the old courthouse is home to the chamber of commerce, a museum and, of course, that old ghost. DIRECTIONS: The Navajo County Courthouse is located at 100 E. Arizona Street in

DERMOTT Holbrook. c INFORMATION: City of Holbrook, 928-524-

SHANE M 6225 or www.ci.holbrook.az.us

24 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 25 17 PALACE SALOON Prescott A description from the Arizona State Inventory of Historic Places best describes this Whiskey Row icon: “The Palace Hotel (Saloon) is a two-story masonry structure 75 feet wide and 125 feet deep. Construction materials included native grey granite, iron and pressed ornamental bricks.” Three gaming tables encouraged faro, poker, roulette, kino and craps at the old Palace Saloon, and a glass of beer would have cost about 5 cents. But in 1900, a Territorial law drove extensive gambling and “hostesses” from bars, and later, Prohibition closed all of the saloons. In 1996, owners Dave and Marilyn Michelson began restoring the saloon to its 1901 appearance. DIRECTIONS: The Palace Saloon is located at 120 S. Montezuma Street in Prescott. INFORMATION: Palace Restaurant and Saloon, 928-541-1996 or www. historicpalace.com

18 Superior Picketpost Mountain was used as a lookout point during the Indian wars, and a roadside marker is located just east of the entrance to . Nearby, at the head of Stoneman Grade east of the mountain, an outpost of Camp Pinal housed soldiers who protected Pinal City and the Silver King Mine from Apache raiders. DIRECTIONS: The historic marker is located at Milepost 223 on U.S. Route 60 in Superior. INFORMATION: Boyce Thompson Arboretum, 520-689-2811 or www. azstateparks.com/parks/both

19 PINEDALE SCHOOL BELL Palace Saloon | MARK LIPCZYNSKI Pinedale For decades, beginning in 1892, the Pinedale School Bell rang to announce the school day, calling people to church and social events, 20 POSTON’S BUTTE and warning of possible disasters. Later, the bell was relocated to a site Florence between Pinedale and Mortensen, where it rang for both communi- Because of his lobbying efforts for the creation of the Arizona ties. In 1922, it was moved to another school at its original site — a Territory, Charles Debrille Poston may have been justified when he heavy snowfall in 1967 demolished the original Pinedale School, but billed himself as the “Father of Arizona.” After arriving in the area in the bell survived. 1854, he served as superintendent of Indian Affairs, agricultural agent, DIRECTIONS: The Pinedale School Bell is located at 1300 Pinedale Road in mine promoter, U.S. consul and Arizona’s first congressional delegate. Pinedale. Although Poston envisioned a Parsi Sun temple on Primrose Hill near INFORMATION: Navajo County governmental office, 928-532-6000 or Florence, he never built it. When he died, he was buried in Phoenix, but www.navajocountyaz.gov was later exhumed and reburied atop his hill, now called Poston’s Butte. DIRECTIONS: From Florence, drive north on State Route 79 (Pinal Pioneer Parkway) for 1.7 miles to the historic marker, which is on the left (west) side of the highway.

Pinedale School Bell | NICK BEREZENKO INFORMATION: Florence Visitors Center, 866-977-4496 or www. visitflorenceaz.com

16

26 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 27 Historic Route 66, Speedway Boulevard, Carefree Highway ... those are among the state’s most famous thoroughfares. Pinal Pioneer Parkway is a road that few ON A DARK DESERT HIGHWAY... have ever heard of. Jack Dykinga is one of the few. He spent a year driving up and down the desert highway, and fortunately, he had his camera along for the ride. A PORTFOLIO BY JACK DYKINGA

28 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 29 SONORAN STARS

PRECEDING PANEL: Soaptree yucca blooms attract nocturnal pollinators, such as bats, beneath a moonlit, starry sky along Pinal Pioneer Parkway. LEFT: Evening sun- light adds a glow to a desert hillside bursting with blooming brittle- bushes, red- spined staghorn chollas and chain fruit chollas.

30 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 31 NEAR AND FAR

LEFT: During midspring, bright pink flowers of strawberry hedgehog cactuses mingle with Coulter’s lupines on the ’s rocky flats and hillsides. ABOVE: A dense stand of soaring saguaro cactuses catch a blazing sunrise as the full moon begins to descend below the horizon.

32 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 33 PINAL PARADE Sunrise helps create a luminous landscape filled with backlit chain fruit chollas along Pinal Pioneer Parkway.

“Everything is connected to everything else.” --- ALDO LEOPOLD

34 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 35 “Certainly, travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living.” --- MIRIAM BEARD

FIRED UP A scarlet sunset lights up dark monsoon clouds above saguaro silhou- ettes along the road between Florence and Oracle Junction.

36 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 37 Roundup Of the Century

Ranching is big in Arizona. Or at least it was. For many reasons, running cattle is a vanishing way of life. The Herefords, the horses, the ranchers themselves ... they’re slowly disappearing. That’s why Scott Baxter set out to preserve their collective history, one photograph at a time. He’s calling his collection “100 Years, 100 Ranchers.” It’s a marathon photo shoot that will document the lives of men and women whose families have been working Arizona’s open range for at least a century or more. BY KELLY KRAMER

PHOTOGRAPHS BY SCOTT BAXTER Rancher Mike O’Haco sorts cattle in a cloud of dust at the O’Haco Cattle Co. in Winslow.

38 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 39 EDITOR’S NOTE: “100 Years, 100 Ranchers” has been designated an official Centennial Legacy Project. Its completion is scheduled to coincide with the Arizona Centennial in February 2012, when the photographs will appear in galleries around the state. Meantime, we’ll be featuring one of the 100 ranch- ers on a monthly basis, beginning with our upcoming March issue. It’s part of our own Centennial coverage, which will continue through February 2012.

here are places, still, where cattle graze at And consider this from the artist himself: “People say, the edges of dirt roads — open-range places, ‘The project should be here, and it should be in a museum, where sun and dust and grass mix with and it should be a book.’ For me, my obligation is to just fin- sweat and leather and long days. They’re Arizona’s ranch ish shooting. That’s what I want to do. It’s not about me. It’s lands, Arizona primeval. about all these people I’ve met. When someone sticks out TTradition lingers there, mixing with the wide-eyed won- their hand and looks you in the eye and they shake your hand der of children in Western shirts and cowboy hats, watch- — that’s my impetus for finishing. It just needs to get done.” ing as their fathers and grandfathers and uncles round up It hasn’t been easy. and rope. Scott Baxter has found them, and thanks to his A history buff — he completed a master’s degree with a cameras, his truck and a little bit of true grit, he’s preserving thesis on the annexation of Texas — and a fly-fisherman, their collective history, one photograph at a time. Baxter stumbled upon the idea for “100 Years, 100 Ranchers” It’s all part of Baxter’s “100 Years, 100 Ranchers” project, a serendipitously. marathon photo shoot that will document the lives of ranch- In 1999, one of Baxter’s friends recommended that he fish ers — men and women whose families have been working at a ranch down the road from a piece of state land they often land, cattle and sheep in Arizona for 100 years or more. The visited near Springerville. The ranch turned out to be the project’s completion is scheduled to coincide with the Ari- X-Diamond, and that’s where Baxter met Wink Crigler, the zona Centennial in February 2012, and the photographs will granddaughter of legendary Arizona pioneer Mollie Butler. appear in galleries around the state. “Wink has a sister named Sug Peters,” Baxter says. “When For Baxter, though, the project isn’t about the exhibi- Sug was born, her parents didn’t name her, and the doctors tions or his name in lights. It’s about maintaining a piece of called her ‘Sugar,’ so she’s been called Sug ever since. I was Arizona history. just kind of taken by them.” Consider this from his published artist’s statement: “My Eventually, Crigler and Peters introduced Baxter to goal is to recognize these families who have struggled to another rancher, Sam Udall, and Baxter made a photograph. survive and persevere in these difficult times. As ranches are “I met Sam at his ranch,” Baxter says. “He was shoeing lost to developers and poor economic conditions, I hope to horses at the time, and he stopped for about five minutes. I be able to preserve photographically an integral part of the try not to overplan what I’m doing — maybe sometimes you Arizona tradition.” allow the photograph to come to you. If I push too hard or

RIGHT: Cattle venture onto the open range at the O’Haco Cattle Co. OPPOSITE PAGE: Jim O’Haco’s ranch-weath- ered hands grasp a coil of rope.

40 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 41 RIGHT: Katie Meyer Cline dips her daughter, Sarah, in a trough at Flying UW Ranch near Winkleman, with help from her sis- ter, Lilah Meyer, and “Mike” the bull. OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: Bobbi Davis and her son, Chip, in the tack room at the P7 Bar Ranch in Wagoner; Walt Meyer (left) speaks to a ranch hand in the cattle pen at the Flying UW Ranch near Winkelman; Ginger Cheney Marks with her children, Colten (left) and Caden, at the Marks Ranch near Blue; Rancher Joe Baird (left) and his son, Robert, at the Lovelake Ranch in Shumway.

“When someone sticks out their hand and looks you in the eye and they shake your hand — that’s my impetus for finishing. It just needs to get done.”

try too hard, stuff gets messed up. Lots of times, I just watch — legal protection — in order to maintain its history and all depend on. As time goes on and knowledge, opportunities and “I’m not a rancher,” he says. “I wouldn’t want to speak for them, but and take what’s given to me. I shot that photograph, then I traditions, as well as the livelihoods of ranch families, so they alternate ways an individual has to feed, clothe and shelter themselves I think there are all kinds of issues when it comes to the decline of spent more and more time talking to these [ranchers], and I formed the Arizona Cattle Growers Association. increases, the general population gets further from the agrarian roots ranch life in Arizona.” started to realize how vital their heritage is to Arizona and It was a prescient step, especially considering that at the which our forefathers understood.” He cites drought and economics, of course, but he also emphasizes the fact that they’re going away.” turn of the 20th century there were approximately 1.5 million Recent reports indicate that the state’s cattle population has the importance of family in keeping a ranch alive. If a ranch patriarch head of cattle in the state. Thanks to the overgrazing of cattle in shrunk to between 700,000 and 800,000 head, but the ACGA still or matriarch dies, and no family member steps forward to take over, places like Texas during the Civil War, many ranchers headed boasts around 900 members. It’s an alliance of ranchers who’ll go so that’s when a ranch is sold or parceled out, he says. But there’s hope west. Still more Arizona ranches were remnants of Spanish far as to adjudicate the state’s water rights laws, litigate against federal in youth. n January 4, 1904, a group of cattlemen land grants, some of which dated to the late 17th century. and state agencies that attempt to seize control over sections of ranch “Sure, I’ve photographed people who are 86 or 91 years old,” he says, decided it was necessary to struc- “The ACGA is dedicated to the ranching families of the land, and educate the public about where their meat comes from — a “but there are also people in their teens and 20s. Those are the ones ture the future of the cattle industry state of Arizona,” reads background information on the asso- pasture-to-plate education. who carry on the legacies.” in what was then the Arizona Territory. ciation’s website. “Our purpose is to strive for a quality of For Baxter, the ACGA is a place to meet people, to learn more about He and the ACGA also hope to address a common misconception They knew, it seems, that the industry required protection life for those families without harming the land which we the lifestyle he finds so often in front of his lens. about ranchers: that they work to the detriment of the environment.

42 februaryO 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 43 ranchers, a lot gets accomplished through a handshake and a smile. slower, more personal process. It allowed him, he says, to study the At press time, Baxter had photographed approximately half of the spirit of the ranchers, whom he calls a “unique group of Arizonans.” ranches on his checklist and had plans to complete the photography Looking ahead to when the project is finally finished and the exhi- by May 1, 2011. After that, those countless images have to be processed bitions have officially closed, Baxter might finally take a breather. He and prepped for printing and exhibition. He’ll also make prints for might. And if he does, he’ll likely stay close to those open-range places many of the families. where earth and sky meet in one big, brilliant embrace. “If I can, I just like to spend time with them,” Baxter says of the “It’s an amazing experience to sit on top of a bluff with ranchers photo shoots. “Then I do a combination of shots — some are action and ask them, ‘Where do you go on vacation?’ ’’ Baxter says. “Most of shots, some are portraits. Actually, they’re all portraits. It doesn’t them say, ‘Why would I want to go anywhere but here?’ ” matter if the subject is really small, or if they’re looking at the camera or doing something else, they’re all portraits.” ■ To make a donation or to learn more about “100 Years, 100 Ranchers,” visit He chose large-format, black-and-white film because it requires a www.100years100ranchers.com.

ABOVE: A lone bo- “There’s a huge misconception among the public that “Someone once said, ‘You can’t do anything. You’re run- vine cruises the horizon as Mike these people are messing up our public lands,” Baxter says. ning out of money.’ I said, ‘If I wait for the money, I’m not O’Haco sorts “ ‘Oh, they’re just running cattle all over the place,’ people going to get anything done,’ ” Baxter remembers. “So I started cattle at the O’Haco Ranch. say. I’ve done riparian studies with them. I’ve ridden out calling people. The best thing to do is just find a way to do it. OPPOSITE PAGE: with them. I’ve seen how they take care of wildlife.” He That means going without an assistant, and that’s what I do. Sam Udall checks points to groups like Southeastern Arizona’s Malpai Bor- That means sleeping in the back of the truck, and that’s what fences from atop his horse, Blue, derlands Group and the Flagstaff area’s Diablo Canyon Trust I do. That means making peanut-butter-and-jelly sandwiches one snowy day at as Exhibits A and B of responsible ranching. He also talks and throwing them in a cooler, and that’s what I do. It’s not a the Slade Ranch near Sunrise Ski about grass-banking, the process by which overgrazed land great, big, luxurious photo shoot.” Resort. The pho- is allowed to regenerate. That’s not to say that Baxter hasn’t been disheartened or tograph was the impetus for the “Certain ranchers let other ranchers put cattle on their that he hasn’t been tempted to throw in the towel. After all, “100 Years, land, or they rotate cattle,” he says. “That way, land in other it’s no small task to travel across the state — oftentimes on 100 Ranchers” areas can come back. It helps ranchers who are having a hard rugged, rustic dirt roads far from cell phone towers and other project. time. It helps them so they don’t have to sell.” modern conveniences — to photograph 100 different ranches It helps them so that one more ranch — one more piece of and generations of ranch families. Arizona history — can live on. Along the way, Baxter went through a divorce, sent his son off to college at Tufts and watched as his daughter started high school and became a serious lacrosse player. He moved his Alzheimer’s-stricken father to the Valley. He he photograph of Sam Udall now hangs in didn’t know if he’d ever finish the Centennial project. That’s “100 Years, 100 Ranchers” headquarters, a when Mike Campbell, his friend, designer and project sup- charming 1920s adobe home at the base of porter, ticked him off. in Phoenix that was “Mike said, ‘Why don’t you sell it? Just sell the project,’ ” donated to Baxter’s project by John LaPrade, who lives in the Baxter remembers. “So I went home and pulled together an Bitterroot Valley of Montana. estimate, and I got mad.” TThe shot — of Udall riding through snow on the Slade That’s exactly what Campbell wanted. He didn’t really Ranch near Sunrise Ski Resort — is a testament to both the want Baxter to sell the project, he just wanted him to finish project’s humble beginnings and just how far it’s come. making the photographs. Although Baxter’s initial idea for the project dates back Baxter, who could easily play the part of cowboy — he’s more than 10 years, he didn’t approach the Arizona Historical tall and lean and boasts a sometimes-stubbled beard and a Advisory Commission to designate “100 Years, 100 Ranchers” pair of well-worn boots — has since launched a Facebook an official Centennial Legacy Project until 2008. Since then, campaign and redesigned the project’s website. He obtained fundraising has been — at times — slow going, and Baxter nonprofit status and works with a professional fundraiser. has more than six figures’ worth of his own hard-earned He attends a lot of cattle-growers meetings and networks at commercial photographer’s income tied up in the venture. every opportunity. Like so many of the plans he makes with

44 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 45 SQUAWPiestewa PEAK

In 2008, a Phoenix landmark lost its name and gained a new identity. Writer Craig Childs wasn’t crazy about the change — he thought it reeked of political correctness — but a night on the mountain and a better understanding of the nomenclature had him whispering Piestewa, Piestewa, Piestewa. BY CRAIG CHILDS PHOTOGRAPHS BY SUZANNE MATHIA

“May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view. May your mountains rise into and above the clouds.” — EDWARD ABBEY

As a full moon rises in the east, rolling clouds drift over the rocky landscape of Piestewa Peak. 46 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 47 the trail from above. They looked like worshippers returning 2,607 feet above sea level, the mountain is the color of fire ash, from a shrine, some carrying flashlights to show the way as slabs of schist rising more than a thousand feet off the valley darkness came on. Flashlights became like lanterns swaying plain. At twilight, the mass of lifted rock turns a luminescent and bobbing down from the high summit. lemon color, absorbing the footlights of Phoenix. Every day hordes go up and down, a couple miles round- The mountain used to be called Squaw Peak. By federal trip, an average of a half-million hikers each year, a couple decree, the name was recently changed to Piestewa Peak, a thousand on weekends. All sorts of people come here, tube- big intellectual move for one of the largest central landmarks switchbacking along the face of Piestewa. I do not know how sucking water-drinkers clicking at the ground with their in the city. The word “squaw” fell from favor, a derogatory many times I’ve climbed this mountain, but I’ve grown to trekking poles, and gruff, unshaven desert rats carrying term for Native American women. But even if the old name prefer the solitude of night, with the city so bright all around I waited for nightfall at the foot of Piestewa Peak, canteens on their hips. You watch every kind of outfit pass — has been respectfully removed, it takes time to rewire one’s me. It is a sublime sensation, millions of people packed wall- smack in the middle of Phoenix. Sunset drew back its bright cutoff jeans, Lycra and khaki cargo pants. Children and brain. I grew up knowing it as Squaw Peak, and for me the to-wall below while I walk up completely alone. It is a rocky lash as crickets started up in the rocky flanks of the moun- elderly, fat and thin. The unhealthy struggle on ham hock word has only meant a singular horn of rock rising from inside spiral staircase to another world. tain; first one cricket as the light faded, then hundreds. By legs, while sprinters shame the rest of us. Phoenix. It is hard to change. Todd Bostwick, an archaeologist for the city of Phoe- dusk, the mountain above me sang. By a hair, Piestewa is not the tallest mountain within the In 2008, the peak was officially renamed for Lori Piestewa, nix, once commented to me that a thousand years ago the Still, I waited to start climbing the peak, sitting on a city (it’s second to Camelback Mountain), but it has the most a Hopi woman who was killed during combat at the onset Hohokam people who occupied this valley must have walked warm concrete picnic bench, watching hikers stream down dominating presence with its singular upraised summit. At of the Iraq War in 2003. She was the first Native American up these very same trails. He figured that, like us, they used woman to die in combat on foreign soil. mountains like this as a retreat from the noisy, smelly villages Piestewa was a Tuba City girl, a mother of two, and she in the valley below. It makes perfect sense. Not much different worked as a Humvee driver for the Army’s 507th Maintenance today, the city can be busy and oppressive, and the mountains Company. In the first wave of the invasion, her convoy became act as a sanctuary. lost in the desert and was ambushed in Nasiriyah. She was hit Piestewa is not alone. The form by what Army investigators called “a torrent of fire,” and died a broad chain of summits about 8 miles long. In my mind, jamming her foot down on the accelerator to get her and her they are what make this city beautiful, if not bearable. In the company out of there. Her body was later found buried in a 1960s and ’70s, Phoenix resident Dottie Gilbert, along with a shallow grave behind an Iraqi hospital. faithful group of diehards, worked to convince the city that Now, I had to learn a different word for this landmark of these mountains needed preserving. They would establish my own childhood, the name of Lori Piestewa. a rare form of wilderness within metropolitan boundaries. Taken from the Hopi language, Piestewa has been gen- Their hard-fought battle succeeded, and now the Phoenix erally interpreted to mean people-who-live-by-the-water. An Mountains Preserve has been set aside, a point of pride in acquaintance on the Hopi Reservation in Northern Arizona the midst of sprawl. asked around on my behalf, and returned explaining that No manicured Central Park, mountains within the pre- the name is used in reference to the Flute Society. On their serve are rugged and left mostly to themselves, traversed dance day, he told me, members of this society journey to a only by dirt trails. Geologically, they are made of layers of sacred spring and perform prayers, meditations and songs. They chant prayer-songs and play their flutes into the spring. Then they return to the village plaza, where it is said they bring rain. The Hopi man explained, “All this is done for moisture of rain, harmony and peace on Earth.” He broke the word down for me to pahu (water), yesse (gather or sitting) and tiwa (an adjective of something hap- pening). It means sitting-at-the-happening-place-of-water, or some- thing like that. The Hopi spelling is Pa-yes-tiwa, pronounced Pie-ess-too-wah, a word that calls the rain. I came to this mountain tonight to climb it and make peace with its new name. It seems fitting that such a word comes to Phoenix, like a beacon, a prayer for rain in the middle of a very thirsty place.

I did not get off the bench at the foot of the mountain until the sun was well below the electric glow of streetlights. Only then did I hike up the trail, rising and

LEFT: From a vantage point high along Piestewa Peak’s Summit Trail, the cityscape of Phoenix shimmers in the distance. RIGHT: A barrel cactus glows in the evening light along the Perl Charles Memorial Trail.

48 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 49 LEFT AND RIGHT: Recreation areas sur- rounding Piestewa Peak attract outdoor enthusiasts to enjoy a number of hiking, biking and horseback- riding trails.

very different rock formations tilted back steeply so that sense of preserving for the Phoenix of the future as much as just about every mountain within the range consists of a possible of this delightful and unique spot.” different kind of rock. This offers a variety of textures and The particular spot she was writing about was the foot of colors to the city’s skyline. The mountains rise sharply, their Piestewa. Now, looking down into its darkness, I was thank- outcrops harsh and wild. Charles Christiansen, director of ful she succeeded. But her move for preservation was not the the Phoenix Parks and Recreation Department in the early end of the story. Time changed, new questions arose. The ’70s, said at the time, “There will always be that beauty there, name of this mountain was no longer enough, and “Piestewa” untarnished by man.” eventually replaced “Squaw.” I wonder if Gilbert would have Few cities in this country have landmarks like these, resisted the change. I imagine she probably would have. I rough interior landscapes holding up the central horizon. resisted it, too. When I first heard it, the name reeked of They span from Shadow Mountain, Moon Hill, and the flat political correctness, which is why I began asking around top of Lookout Mountain in the north to the terra cotta Hopi, and why I came here tonight. I needed to understand flanks of Camelback and South mountains in the south. In this new name for an old and beloved peak. the middle is a dense, rocky cluster: the arroyos of Dreamy I moved up 120 stories of rock and hardpack, theaters of Draw below, and the masterful hood of Piestewa above. crickets and lone posts of saguaros striking against the sky. Though the city presses in from all sides, a relieving empti- At the summit, I found a familiar jag of bedrock, not much of ness remains in the center. a comfortable place to sit. I fit my butt down into a crevice, knees higher than my hips, and pretended to recline over this With every hundred feet of vertical gain, the city elegant and feverish city. The metropolis formed a circular below appeared to grow larger. Taillights and streetlights sweep of light, swirling rings of industry and life. accumulated by the millions. Helicopters raked across grids Thunderstorms rimmed the horizon. Flashes of lightning as freeways flowed like luminous arteries. Airplanes stacked boiled over the suburbs. Storms are always a good sign in behind each other approaching from due east, lined up like this city. You want precipitation. Only fools complain when flares in the sky — welcome to Phoenix — while an equal chain weather moves in. This is a desert, and water is most pre- of lights departed to the west — let’s get out of here. cious in any form. Come on, I thought, rain. Directly below me, the mountain preserve was ink-black I whispered, Piestewa. against the tungsten glow surrounding it. If this place had The word did not sound at all like “Squaw,” not the carbon not been preserved, the final darkness of this city would mass of a mountain that I knew, but it did have a ring to it, have been pushed up the flanks of these mountains, nearly and so I said it, a little louder. extinguished as mansions and swimming pools fit into every Piestewa. last crook and crevice. Holding back internal development How it is spoken at Hopi, you pronounce the “t” with your and allowing these mountains to stand free might be the best tongue almost touching the back of your teeth — nearly a thing Phoenix ever did. “th” sound — and you draw out the “wa,” as in “want.” In 1966, the year I was born down in that mass of light, Like many Hopi words, saying it out loud, it almost Dottie Gilbert wrote a letter to then-mayor Milton Graham. sounded like water. It actually had relevance here. As I said She urged him to properly plan what to do with various it, I thought of the history gathered in the word, much more pieces of land, writing, “How sad it will be if it becomes powerful than the mere squaw it was before. Now this an unimaginative dense urban area with city streets and mountain’s name bore new definitions: Dark-eye-of-raptur- curbs and sidewalks, when it could be built around its trails ous-city; Prayer-for-rain; Mother-of-two-found-buried-in-the-desert; with little picnic spots scattered through the mountains to Warrior-sent-far-away. lure the hiker, the Boy Scout — and, yes, the horseman.” She I said the name as I sat, telling it to the air. I got up and went on: “Our mountains are to Phoenix what the beaches hopped to another nick of rock, whispering it as I went. I are to Florida. They are our ‘natural resources,’ and they are climbed down off the summit, monkeying across ridges into everybody’s scenery.” In conclusion, Gilbert apologized to steep, loose ravines below. I let the word fall from my mouth, the mayor for appearing to be against progress in the usual memorizing the sound, Piestewa, a slow chant descending sense of the word. “I am really for ‘progress’ in the long-range into this city so lovely tonight.

50 february 2011 www.arizonahighways.com 51 scenic drive JOSHUA TREE Here’s the thing: Joshua trees river is probably just that — are not vegetables and they’re big and sandy. Beyond the Big PARKWAY Why not among the 12 spies of Israel, Sandy, sheer, eroded cliffs loom, drive to California but they are members of the lily speckled in spots with saguaros family. What’s more, they’re and scrub. Pale, striated canyon for Joshua trees plentiful along U.S. Route 93 walls straddle the highway — when you can pile from Wikieup to Wickenburg. green, yellow, white and taupe in the car and head The drive, which is familiar — and the mountains stretch for to anyone who’s road-tripped miles in front of you. to Wikieup? from Phoenix to Sin City (or At Mile Marker 147, you’ll vice versa), officially begins start seeing rocks piled on BY KELLY KRAMER in Wikieup, a dot on the map top of each other. They look PHOTOGRAPHS BY that’s better known for its like hoodoos, with saguaros NEIL WEIDNER pie (you’ll pass Luchia’s) than in between. The rocks are an its tourism cachet. Other interesting sight, but not as hen Mormon settlers landmarks “in town” include interesting as Nothing. Blink wfirst saw the plant they the Snoopy-piloted Wikieup and you’ll miss it, but Nothing dubbed the “Joshua tree,” it arrow, along with the Wikieup was a real Arizona town, and reminded them of the bushy- Trading Post and Eat at Joe’s you’ll see it off to the left. It’s bearded biblical leader. When Barbecue, as well as the creo- marked with a sign and a pile BELOW AND RIGHT: The twisting Territorial Governor John C. sote-peppered hills that sur- of ... well, junk. You’ll have to arms of Joshua Frémont caught sight of it dur- round Bronco Wash. see it for yourself, but Nothing trees dominate the desert land- ing an 1844 trek through the Heading south on U.S. 93, really is something. scape along the Mohave Desert, he called it “the around Mile Marker 127, you’ll Joshua trees become the road between Wikieup and most repulsive tree in the veg- come to the Big Sandy River, focal point of this drive around Wickenburg. etable kingdom.” and unless it’s been raining, the Mile Marker 162. One of the first you’ll see is a large, gnarly fellow off to the right, and then several more in rapid succes- sion. They’re reminiscent of the baobab trees made famous in Saint Exupery’s Little Prince, and if your imagination is active, you might see a little blond boy To Kingman emerge from the trees with Wikieup START HERE north a dog and a well-protected B ronco Wash flower in hand. 93 By Mile Marker 169, the Burro Creek forest of Joshua trees is dense, Recreation Area Bagdad and you’ll see a sign that reads: “Joshua Tree Parkway of Ari- 97 B Nothing 96 ADDITIONAL ig zona.” It’s a label that formal- S tour guide a READING: For more n d y izes the obvious — that this is scenic drives, pick Note: Mileages are approximate. R i up a copy of our v er an incredibly scenic drive that e iv r R LENGTH: 74 miles one way book, The Back aria passes through one of the most Santa M Roads. Now in its 89 DIRECTIONS: From Wikieup, travel south on U.S. fifth edition, the spectacular landscapes in the 93 Route 93 to Wickenburg. book ($19.95) VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: Southwest. The route continues features 40 of the None on to Wickenburg, a classic Old state’s most scenic WARNING: Back-road travel can be hazardous, drives. To order a so be aware of weather and road conditions. r West town that celebrates the Congress e copy, visit www. iv Carry plenty of water. Don’t travel alone and let R state’s cowboy heritage with arizonahighways. pa m someone know where you are going and when com/books. ya the Desert Caballeros Museum ssa you plan to return. 71 Ha and a string of Western- INFORMATION: National Scenic Byways Program, themed shops and restaurants. 800-429-9297 or www.byways.org/explore/ byways/11293 It’s a great place to visit, but Wickenburg Travelers in Arizona can visit www.az511.gov 60 the highlight of this drive is the Hassayampa To Phoenix or dial 511 to get infor­ma­tion on road closures, River Preserve 60

trees. Or, rather, the lilies. KEVIN KIBSEY construc­tion, delays, weather and more.

52 february 2011 ONLINE For more scenic drives in Arizona, visit www.arizonahighways.com/scenicdrives. www.arizonahighways.com 53 hikeOF THE month CASNER CANYON TRAIL nic trail, you’ll first have to wade through the waist-high waters of Oak Creek. Although the water levels will fluc- There are plenty of great trails in tuate throughout the year, you’re definitely going to get the Sedona area. This is the best wet, especially in the spring, but don’t let that deter you. one you’ve never heard of. Although there’s only one way to reach Casner Canyon itself, there are two ways to access the trail of the same name. The first is to park on the narrow shoulder of BY ROBERT STIEVE PHOTOGRAPHS BY DEREK VON BRIESEN State Route 89A and then follow a steep path down the embankment to the trailhead. This is not your best option. Instead, park at Grasshopper Point and hop on the Allen’s ome of the most spectacular trails in Arizona are Bend Trail. It’s a short and beautiful connector trail that s surprisingly accessible, and that can lead to trouble. winds for a half-mile along Oak Creek to its intersection The Bright Angel Trail on the South Rim of the Grand with the Casner Canyon Trail. BELOW AND OPPO- SITE PAGE: Hikers Canyon is probably the best example. Think about it, From there, turn right onto the Casner Canyon Trail, along Casner there’s nothing — no long drive on a primitive road, no cross a normally dry creekbed and make your way to the Canyon Trail are treated to technical requirements, no checkpoint for unqualified banks of Oak Creek. There’s no magic formula for get- the gentle water- hikers — to keep the hordes from venturing into a place ting across. Shoes on, shoes off, it doesn’t really matter. falls and languid pools of Oak that requires much more than an afterthought. And Either way, you’ll want to be careful. The rocks below the Creek, as well as maybe that’s why Mother Nature put a moat around the surface will be extremely slippery. If you have a walking spectacular views of Sedona’s red- Casner Canyon Trail. stick, this is the time to use it. It’s not unusual for even rock landscapes. There’s no way around it. If you want to hike this sce- graceful hikers to fall victim to the unscrupulous nature of the slippery rocks. Be prepared and aim for the cairns on the opposite bank. Once you’re across, hug the rock ledge and follow the trail into Casner Canyon, which is small compared to Munds Canyon to the north, but enormous when it comes to payoff — the red-rock views from this trail are breath- taking, and can’t be seen from a backseat window. About 20 minutes into the hike, you’ll notice a large Utah juni- per, the most common cedar in Arizona. You’ll also notice the quiet. At this point, you’ll be separated from the car noise of Sedona, and, more than likely, you’ll be alone. This trail doesn’t get the kind of traffic that other hikes in Sedona get, which makes the panoramic views even that much better. Not far from the big juniper, the trail begins its gradual To Flagstaff climb up from the canyon floor. It follows the north side N north RED ROCK/ O of the canyon and quickly loses the shade of the ripar- SECRET MOUNTAIN Y trail guide N WILDERNESS k A e ian habitat below. Even in the springtime, the heat will e LENGTH: 5 miles round-trip C r F C

take its toll, so carry plenty of water and go heavy on the k DIFFICULTY: Strenuous K a sunscreen. Moving along, the gorgeous scene in front of E O ELEVATION: 4,396 to 5,912 feet E ner Canyon R Cas you will command your attention, as it should, but make C DIRECTIONS: From the roundabout junction of state routes 179

TRAILHEAD and 89A in Sedona, drive north on SR 89A for 2.4 miles to the sure you turn around every once in a while and look the K A Grasshopper Point Grasshopper Point parking lot on the right side of the highway. other way. All of the views are virtually unadulterated by O 89A SPECIAL CONSIDERATION: A $5 Red Rock pass is required along the anything man-made. It’s a rare treat. It’s also an opportu- COCONINO N ATIONAL FOREST highway; a $10 per vehicle (up to 5 people) fee is required in the nity to see what the Casner family saw when they moved Grasshopper Point parking area. Road Hill cattle from Oak Creek to the high mesa at the end of this Sedona bly VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: None Schne trail. The views haven’t changed at all since then. And DOGS ALLOWED: Yes (on a leash) 89A USGS MAP: Munds Park neither has the steep and challenging grade. MUNDS MOUNTAIN WILDERNESS Overall, this is a tough trail, despite its relatively short INFORMATION: Red Rock Ranger Station, 928-282-4119 or www. fs.fed.us/r3/coconino distance. But if you take it slowly, you’ll eventually come to LEAVE-NO-TRACE PRINCIPLES: ek an old wooden gate that marks the turnaround point. You re • Plan ahead and be prepared. C k a • Travel and camp on durable surfaces. can also continue a few hundred yards up to the top of the O 179 mesa, but the best views are in the other direction. Enjoy • Dispose of waste properly and pack out your trash. • Leave what you find. them on the way down. It’s Mother Nature’s reward for • Respect wildlife and minimize impact. To Phoenix

making it across her moat. KEVIN KIBSEY • Be considerate of others.

54 february 2011 ONLINE For more hikes in Arizona, visit www.arizonahighways.com/hiking. www.arizonahighways.com 55 where Knee Deep in ADventure is this? Your experience begins in Yuma Join us at this year’s It’s No A local humorist renamed this town, which was originally called Happy Valley, for Yuma Birding and Nature Festival a female friend he watched dance across the hot desert sand. That same humorist for a photography workshop by Joke brought celebrity status to the tiny town when he wrote about a frog that couldn’t swim, a legend that was read in 25 newspapers and magazines across the country, BY SALLY BENFORD Arizona Highways Photo Workshops PHOTOGRAPH BY including The Saturday Evening Post. The famous frog’s legacy lives on at the local LARRY LINDAHL high school, which calls itself the “Home of the Fighting Frogs.”

April 13-16, 2011 Yuma, Arizona Register today at www.yumabirding.com Win a collection of our most popular books! To enter, correctly identify the location featured above and e-mail your answer to [email protected] — type “Where Is This?” in the subject line. Entries can also be sent to 2039 W. Lewis Avenue, 1.800.293.0071 Phoenix, AZ 85009 (write “Where Is This?” on the envelope). Please include your name, address and phone number. One winner will be chosen in a random drawing of qualified entries. Entries must be postmarked by February 15, 2011. Only the winner will be notified. The correct answer will be posted in our April issue and online at www.arizonahighways.com beginning March 15.

56 february 2011 JACK DYKINGA SHARES PHOTOS SUSIE YAZZIE: THE MATRIARCH ONE OF THE COOLEST SEDONA FROM A DARK DESERT HIGHWAY OF MAJESTIC MONUMENT VALLEY HIKES YOU’VE NEVER HEARD OF

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