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Download Download I. PAST OWNERS CASTLIT D EAN S : SOME NOTE THEIN SO R HISTORY. BY WILLIAM DOUGLAS, F.S.A. SCOT. hardls i t I y necessar thay ruine sa tth yo f Fast so t Castle (fig stan) .1 d on a rocky promontory on the Berwickshire coast, and that they have a witchery all their own. Only a few fragments of the keep and of the surrounding wall remainw s no thesd ,an e rest, peacefull thein yi r solitude, on the brow of a little grass-covered plateau. The site is unique and perfect in its loneliness, and what is left of the ruin is just large enough keepinn i e b o t g wit e scenepromontore hth Th . y extends seawardr sfo 26 s 6cliffsit feet d , an ,feetrisin0 well-nige 15 ar , go t fro0 mh10 unclimb- able frojoinee mainlanw th mno o r ds shorea t i eitheo y t a dI b .se r very narrow pathway whic s non-existenhwa olden i t n times e inter,th - vening chasm being then spanne a drawbridge y db . We cannot fail to be impressed by the intense isolation of the scene- and this is emphasised by the chattei-ing hek-hek-hek of the peregrines as they circle the air from their centuries' old eyrie on the cliffs above, and by the yammer and the youll of the gulls which resound all day long fro surroundine mth g crags thae b s surrounding it t.y 'Ima t e ar s now even more desolate than the e Homeye tim th wer th d f eo n an sei the Logans, for the castle was then the " principal messuage " of the lands of- Gunnisgreen, Flemington, etc., and of "the demesne lands of Fast castell called Wester Lummisden, Dowla and Duddoholme otherwise called Caldsyde with the Mill1 of Fast castell."2 greae Onth f teo through routes from Berwic Dunbao kt Edind an r - burgh would pas l sprobabilit al nea s gatesn i it r r fo , y thin througra s h 1 The mill was in Dowlaw Dean, near the present bridge; see Blaeu's Atlas. • Reg. Mag. Siff., vi., No. 778. '' : 58 PROCEEDING E SOCIETYTH F O S , JANUAR , 1921Y10 . Goldingham, Lumsden farm, over Dowlaw, and on by St Helen's Kirk moute sande th th Dunglast f o Peaso t sa t ho y ewa Deans . it Thun o , s a ste t t pwouli bu asid e db e fo a traveller o avait r l himsele th f o f doubtful hospitalit f Fasyo t Ca.stle. Although r WalteSi s ,a r Scott tells, nevee Fas1h w sa rt Castle except from the sea, yet from this passing view he has left two delightful word pictures. Of Wolf's Crag he said: " A wilder, or more disconsolate dwell- ing, it was perhaps difficult to conceive" ; and of Fast Castle: " Imagina- tion can scarce form a scene more striking, yet more appalling, than this rugge ruinoud dan s stronghold, situate abrupn a inaccesd n do an t - sible precipice, overhanging the raging ocean, and tenanted of yore by men stormy and gloomy as the tempests they looked down upon." It is uncertain when it was last used as a place of residence. Ther2 e is no record of this later than when Logan was conducting his desperate deeds against law and order. When he died in 1606 it came into the hands of the Earl of Dunbar, and it would then, no doubt, be used as a prison, when Commissiones ,a Bordere th f ro " e ,h hange d ove hundrera d and forty of the nimblest and most powerful thieves in all the Borders." 3 The Ear f Dunbao l r s heirdie hi 1611n di sd 161n soli ,an Jameo t 5t di s Arnott, a son of the Provost of Edinburgh, who would probably, like his brothe t Cockburnspathra , lea dmora e homely life thers hi f e o thay nan predecessors. Of his brother, Taylor the Water Poet records that he was "a worthy gentleman whose chief delight was in giving strangers entertainment gratis, and who desired nothing so much as to know his duty towards God and the king and to practise works of piety, charity and hospitality." From Arnott the castle passed to the Earl of Home, and then, after som4 e forfeiture restorationsd an s t cami , r Si 168n ei o 2t John Hal Dunglasf o l whosn ,i e famil t remaineyi d till 1919, s whenwa t i acquire Franr M y kdb Usher along wit Dunglae hth s property. PLANS PICTUBESD AN . The earliest is " the platte of ffawscastle" (fig. 6), which was drawn to the scale of 32 feet to the inch, under the direction of Henry, second Earl of Rutland Lor,s whewa d e nWardeh Ease Middld th an f t no e Marches in 1549. Sinc ebees theha n t ni preserve t Belvoida r Castlee , andth y b , kindnes Marquese th f permissioo e s th f Granby o sy Dukb e th d f enan ,o of Rutland, it is now reproduced for the first time. This plan is not only of interest as an important document in the history of the castle, bute earliest e earliestth castly , th t an frof f no s eo beino m ,it f e i , gon 1 Introduction, Bride of Lammermoor. 2 Provincial Antiquities, . 188p . .ii 3 Scots Peerage, iii . 287p . , quoting Balfour's Annals,. 17 . p . i Colonel Arnott's House of Arnott. 4 FAST S OWNERSCASTLIT D AN E . 59 Fig. Pla2 f Fasno t Castl 1880n i e . 4 10O 0 O 4 8 91TO0O O S W20O FEE0 4 3TO I——I——I——I——I——I——I——I——I Fig. S. Tracing of Plan made in 1549. 60 PROCEEDING SE SOCIETYOTH F , JANUAR , 1921Y10 . housr o Scotlandn ei comparinn I . gt witcastle i plae th hf th eno mady eb Messrs M'Gibbon & Ross in 1880 (fig. 2), we see that most of the foundations buildingd ol e oth f s have disappeared thad an , t onl yportioa f "thno e e curtaith f Hallevisiblew o n no d wal e "an . ar l However, enougw hno remain confir o sdoubt o n pland accurace d ol carefuma t th an ,e th f lyo search would reveal traces of the.other foundations. The lettering on the old sixteenth-century plan reads as follows: —The See, Acowrtte, Fig. 4.I - Fast-Castle fro e Nortmth ' n 1789hi . e HalleTh , brewehowse fott-2 3 o thincht t e A , , Acowrtte e CrageTh , , The Platte of ffawscastle, The See.: In Blaeu's A tlas of 1645, there is a map of Mercia on which the castle is represented by a drawing of a conventional four-sided building. This is only interestin indication a s ga occupation i ns thawa t ti t thana t time. In 1778, it is noted, on a map of " the Great North Road," as being then in ruins. In 1789, Adam de Cardomiel's etching, here reproduced (fig. 4), is the first pictorial representation we have of it, and it shows the building unroofe e e wallb th o t d s beginnindan falo . gt in l In 1820, the Rev. John Thomson of Duddingston painted several pictures which are siipposed to represent Fast Castle, but many of them are very fanciful.1 The one in William Baird's John Thomson is perhaps . ' There is one in Scott's Provincial Antiquities, one in Lang's James' VI.; one in The Bride of Lammermoor, thre Napier'n ei s LifeBaird'n i e Artist,e oon th fs d bookan . FAST CASTLE AND ITS OWNERS. 61 more tru doubtfus naturi o e t t othere muci o s t th ef f bu i h o l stha ; y nan of the walls was standing then as is shown in this picture. 1829n I , James Skene's etchin s Localitieshi Waverleye n gi th f o Novels give goosa ruie dstate t th idethan th a f f eo a o t date. In 1836, Alex. A. Carr gives a picture of the ruins in his History of Coldingham Priory. FAST CASTLE Fig . Fas5 . t Castle fro e Nortmth 1880n i h . In 1880, M'Gibbon and Ross made some drawings of the castle1 (fig. 5), thesd an e show that buildine mucth f ho disappeares gha d since then. From these plan pictured san s easi t castle gaiso yi t ideth n na f eao in the time of its strength. The plateau, on which the buildings stood, rises from 99 feet above sea-level at its seaward end to 153 feet at its highest point, and measures 266 feet by 88 feet. This plateau was cut off fro mainlane mth chasa y db m som fee0 e2 t wide, whic spannes hwa a y db drawbridge fringes curtaia wa y t I b d .n wall running roun clife dth f edge so that no access could be had to it from the sea without leave from the garrison. The picture of a crane and bucket, shown on the 1549 plan as swinging 100 feet above the entrance to the great cave, explains how communicatio maintaines nwa d wit seathie d hth s an ; gives another blow M'Gibbo Ross'd nan s Castles, iii. 222p . 1 62 PROCEEDING E SOCIETYTH F O S , JANUAR , 192110 Y .
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