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JAK JDE KROJ, TAK SE STROJ Katalog Expozice O Tradičním Odívání Na Valašsku JAK JDE KROJ, TAK SE STROJ

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JAK JDE KROJ, TAK SE STROJ Katalog Expozice O Tradičním Odívání Na Valašsku JAK JDE KROJ, TAK SE STROJ JAK JDE KROJ, TAK SE STROJ Katalog expozice o tradičním odívání na Valašsku JAK JDE KROJ, TAK SE STROJ Katalog expozice o tradičním odívání na Valašsku Lenka Drápalová Jana Tichá Vydáno v rámci grantového projektu s názvem Jak jde kroj, tak se stroj, Valašské muzeum v přírodě v Rožnově pod Radhoštěm spolufinancovaného z Finančních mechanismů EHP a Norska Rožnov pod Radhoštěm 2017 OBSAH / CONTENTS ÚVODEM / INTRODUCTION 8 KROJOVÉ TEXTILIE Z VALAŠSKA VE SBÍRKÁCH MUZEÍ / 10 WALLACHIAN FOLK COSTUME TEXTILES IN MUSEUM COLLECTIONS TRADIČNÍ ODĚV PŘI VYBRANÝCH PŘÍLEŽITOSTECH / 17 TRADITIONAL CLOTHING FOR SPECIAL OCCASIONS Manželský pár ve svátečním rožnovském kroji / Couple in festive traditional clothing from Rožnov pod Radhoštěm 18 Těhotenství a narození dítěte / Pregnancy and childbirth 20 Úvod / Churching of women 22 Dětství / Childhood 27 Oděv při svatbě / Traditional clothes for occasion of a wedding 61 Oděv ve stáří a smrti / Design of clothes in the old and death 66 Vliv dobové módy na podobu tradičního oděvu / Changes of the design of clothes in Rožnov 72 Vliv jednotlivců na podobu tradičního oděvu / The impact of individuals on preservation and style of traditional clothes 80 Obroda krojového ošacení / The Revival of traditional Wallachian clothes in 1925 95 ROZMANITOST TRADIČNÍHO ODĚVU OBLÉKANÉHO NA VALAŠSKU / 99 THE DIVERSITY OF TRADITIONAL CLOTHES WORN IN WALLACHIA Tradiční oděv žen / The women’s traditional clothing 100 Spodní prádlo / Women’s underwear 100 Leknice / Skirt bodice „leknice“ 125 Punčochy a ponožky / Stokings and socks 128 Sukně / Skirt 143 Zástěra do pasu „fěrtoch“ / Waist apron „fěrtoch“ 157 Rukávce / Blouse 175 Kordulka / Bodice and bodice called coatee 197 Čepec a rouška / Cap and veil 215 Šátek / Scarf 239 © Lenka Drápalová Obřadní plachta „úvodnice“ / Ceremonial shawl „úvodnice“ 274 © Jana Tichá Soukenný kabátek / Coatee and fur jacket 280 © Valašské muzeum v přírodě v Rožnově pod Radhoštěm, 2017 Dlouhý kabát / Fur coat „šuba“ 280 Grafická úprava, sazba a předtisková příprava © MIGER - Valašská fabrika na reklamu Obuv / Women’s footwear 289 ISBN 978-80-87210-62-8 5 Tradiční oděv mužů / The men’s traditional clothes 297 Košile / Shirt 297 Spodní prádlo / Men’s underwear 310 Brunclek / Waistcoat „brunclek“ 314 Nohavice / Trousers 322 Obuv / Men’s footwear 332 Pokrývka hlavy / Headwear 341 Doplňky k oděvu / Accesories in men’s traditional clothes and baggage 349 Kabát, kabátek a kožich / Waistcoat jacket, long coat and fur coat 356 TÉMATICKÁ BIBLIOGRAFIE / THE THEMATIC BIBLIOGRAPHY 364 PROGRAMY A PREZENTACE VALAŠSKÉHO MUZEA V PŘÍRODĚ / 384 PROGRAMS AND THE PRESENTATION OF THE WALLACHIAN OPEN AIR MUSEUM VÝSTAVY / EXHIBITIONS 387 FILMOGRAFIE / FILMOGRAPHY 389 Kalivoda František: Selský obraz - Salaš u Rožnova, barevná litografie. Valašské muzeum v přírodě v Rožnově pod Radhoštěm, inv. č. 120 Prostí Valaši nosí krátké, po kolena huňky, barvy kaštanové, kabátky aneb starouherského způsobu, barvy buďto zelené neb světlemodré. Brucléky krátké, košile krátké, s obšírnými krátkými rukávy, nohavice buďto světlemodré, zelené neb také bílé, místo bot neb čižem užívají obyčejné krbce. Hochvaldští, rožnovští a hostýnští Valaši nosí široké střechaté klobouky, vsetínští ale v kraji hradi- šťském černé houněné javínky, které ale již také z obyčeje vycházejí a místo nich užívají na salaši malé širáky. Pohlaví ženské nosí tuhoškrobené široké, v týle roztažené, bílé plátěné šátky, živůtky měkké něco hanáckým podobné, sukně krátké, černě plátěné s nesčíslnými faldy, punčochy čer- né, do faldů svírané, odkud jejich nohy neforemné bývají. V zimě nosí ženské pohlaví dlouhé bílé košile, po krajích červenou kůží lemované. Zámožné osoby mívají takové kožichy z hedvábného červeného cajku, kunou vypremované a dobrými zlatými portami velmi skvostně vyšperkované. Zámožný Valach všecko vynaloží, aby jeho žena nádherně vystrojena byla, ten obyčej panuje, ale jen mezi hochvaldskými a rožnovskými Valachy. Josef Heřman Agapit Gallaš, 1820 6 7 ÚVODEM INTRODUCTION Dne 4. prosince 2016 Valašské muzeum v přírodě v Rožno- On 4 December 2016 the Wallachian Open Air Museum Vybudováním stálé expozice Jak jde kroj, tak se stroj se used materials, cuts, styles, and decorations in terms of their vě pod Radhoštěm zpřístupnilo veřejnosti dlouho očekávanou in Rožnov pod Radhoštěm opened a long-awaited permanent podařilo návštěvníkům z regionu i mimo něj nabídnout repre- local origin and evolution in time. The exhibition is accompa- stálou expozici s poetickým názvem Jak jde kroj, tak se stroj exhibition named Jak jde kroj, tak se stroj (When in Wallachia, zentativní expozici. V takto velkém rozsahu a moderním pojetí nied by modern audiovisual and interactive features that allow s podtitulem Expozice o tradičním odívání na Valašsku. Tímto do as the Wallachians do) and subtitled Exhibition of Tradition- dosud nebylo toto téma navíc představeno nejen ve Valašském the visitors to extend their already gained knowledge. počinem byla završena jedenáctiletá doba přípravných a rea- al Folk Costumes in Wallachia. The opening of the exhibition muzeu v přírodě, ale ani v dalších muzeích v širším regionu Through the Jak jde kroj, tak se stroj permanent exhibition, lizačních prací, jejichž cílem bylo vybudování trvalé expozice was a climax of 11 years of preparation, research, and actual Valašska. visitors now have the opportunity to enjoy a highly represent- prezentující proměny lidového odívání na Valašsku v období implementation of the project. The aim was to develop a per- Realizace takto rozsáhlého díla byla možná jen prostřednic- ative display, which is unparalleled in many ways – up to now, od poslední třetiny 18. století po polovinu 20. století. manent exhibition presenting the evolution of folk costumes in tvím spolufinancování z Finančních mechanismů EHP a Nor- such an extensive and modern exhibition covering this topic has Expozice se nachází v prvním patře centrální budovy Sušák Wallachia between the last third of the 18th century and mid- ska. Hlavním cílem projektu bylo zpřístupnit nejširší veřejnosti not been presented at the Wallachian Open Air Museum or in a je instalována v sále o výměře 650 m2. Realizaci ve spolu- 20th century. The exhibition is on display on the first floor of novou informační bázi o jedinečné textilní sbírkové kolekci either of the other museums in the broader region of Wallachia. práci s pracovníky muzea provedla firma Artconsultancy s. r. o. the Sušák central building and occupies a hall of 650 square spravované Valašským muzeem v přírodě. Tuto myšlenku se Implementing such a large project was only possible through z Opavy. metres. The exhibition was developed and installed by the ex- podařilo naplnit vybudováním dlouhodobé expozice a rovněž co-funding from the EHP and Norway financial mechanisms. Výstavní prostor je členěn do tří základních celků, v nichž perts from the museum in collaboration with Artconsultancy vytvořením on-line katalogu textilní sbírky za využití moder- The main aim of the project was to publicly present the new je pomocí písemných a obrazových sdělení a rovněž instalace- s. r. o. from Opava. ních forem technologií prezentačních a komunikačních. Mu- information database on the unique textile collection kept at mi hmotných předmětů zprostředkován proces vývoje vzhle- The exhibition space consists of three main segments. The zeum dosud službu v takto velkoryse pojaté podobě nepo- Wallachian Open Air Museum. This idea was materialized du tradičního oděvu z historického a regionálního hlediska, process of development of the traditional folk costume is inter- skytovalo. Vedle toho byly na projekt navázány další aktivity through building the permanent exhibition and creating an ale také zvyklosti a způsoby oblékání oděvu a jeho funkce při preted from the historical and regional points of view through – oboustranná spolupráce s norským partnerem či vydání do- on-line catalogue of the textile collection using modern pres- konkrétních situacích. text, visual resources and material objects. Different ways of provodných publikací k expozici. entation and communication technologies. Until now, the mu- Problematika lidového oděvu z Valašska je v úvodní čás- wearing the clothes are presented, highlighting their functions Vydání katalogu k expozici Jak jde kroj, tak se stroj uzavírá seum could not provide this service in such a generous extent. ti osvětlena z pohledu odborného zájmu o krojové textilie, in specific situations. veškeré odborné aktivity vážící se k představenému projektu. The project involved other activities as well, including bilateral o jejich dokumentaci a zachování prostřednictvím muzej- The topic of the Wallachian folk costume is presented in the Katalog je rozčleněn na několik základních celků, jež odpoví- collaboration with the Norwegian partner and the creation of ních sbírek. Stěžejní díl expozice zaujímají instalace v ná- opening part of the exhibition, enhancing the expert knowl- dají uspořádání expozice (sbírková činnost, oděv při určité pří- publications accompanying the exhibition – a guidebook and znakovém prostředí intriérů a exteriérů, které představují po- edge relating to costume textiles, their documentation and ležitosti a variabilita tradičního oděvu). Třistapadesát fotografií a catalogue. doby oděvu oblékaného při různých příležitostech životního preservation through museum collections. A key part of the sbírkových předmětů a celků tradičního oděvu je doprovázeno The publication of the Jak jde kroj, tak se stroj exhibition cat- a rodinného cyklu, v závislosti na ročním období
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