A FIELD GUIDE TO ROCKS AND MINERALS By FREDERICK H. POUGH, Curator of Minerals, American Museum of Natural History YOU HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR THIS BOOK—Con- will be available for delivery October 20, 1953. Send tains 234 photographs, 72 in full color, and a simplified us your advance order now. You will receive a receipt Field Guide to identification. Every mineral the Rock- and acknowledgment of order. This will be the best hound is likely to encounter is described in detail. This CHRISTMAS GIFT you could get for any mineral is the most important new book that has ever been collector. printed for the rockhound and gem hunter. This book PRE-PUBLICATION PRICE ONLY $3.75 postage prepaid N6W FR€€ 56 PAGE 1953 MIDY6AR PRICE LIST This catalog is the same as our 1952 Fall Catalog. It is Bails, Locket Loops, Chain by the foot, Bezel Wire, etc. 8VVxll" in size and it is profusely illustrated. Your Field Trip Books and Books of all kinds on Minerals, shopping will be made easy — order by mail or visit Gems, Jewelry Making, Prospecting, Uranium, etc. our shop to select your gifts. This catalog lists Gem Fluorescent Lamps, Fluorescent Minerals, Geiger Count- Cutting Equipment, Grinding Wheels, Diamond Blades, ers, Uranium Samples, Magnifiers, Scales, Templates, etc. Sanding Cloth, and Polishing Powders, Jewelry Making Services Offered to You Are: Expert Gem Stone Cutting, Tools, Sterling Silver Sheet and Wire, Blank Ring Custom Jewelry Making and Repair. Mountings, Jewelry Findings such as Earwires, Dealers please ask for wholesale discount sheets POLY ARBORS AT NEW LOW PRICES illustration at right shows 1—POLY D12 Arbor $19.95 1—Dresser Rest 2.25 2—Cast Splash Shields 15.00 1—Jig Block DIAMOND 1—100 Grit Wheel 8"xlV2"..... 7.25 DRESSER 10.90 1—200 Grit Wheel 8"xiy2".—. 8.25 2—Galvanized Splash Pans... 5.50 TOTAL VALUE $69.10 SPECIAL COMBINATION PRICE $62.00

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LET'S GET ACQUAINTED OFFER COLORED BRAZILIAN AGATES—Superb Blue, Green, Yellow, Black, 18" Rhodium Plated Sterling Silver or Carnelian. Choice slab any color $1. Ask for our approval selection. yellow Gold Filled Neck chains SNOWFLAKE JADE—Wyoming. Beautiful Green Nephrite that can be 2 for $1.00 or $4.50 per doz. polished to a high gloss free from undercutting. Select slab 3 sq. in. $1. plus 20% Fed. E. Tax BRAZILIAN AMETHYST CRYSTALS with polished terminations—$3 ea. MAGNIFICENT BLUE TIGEHEYE—A slab of 3 sq. in. for only $1. INCA ROSE RHODOCHROSITE—Argentina. Banded Rose, cream, pink ESTWING ALL STEEL 2 sq. in.—$1.00. ROCKHOUND PICKS GOLDEN FLEECE TIGEREYE—Superb quality, 3 sq. in. slab for only $1. $2.20 STERLING PENDANT FRAME S-164. Summer special $1.00 ea. Giit Model—Polished $4.10 OFFER No. 7A—1 gross Assorted Jump Rings—Sterling silver or Gold Regular Black Finish .$5.85 filled. $1.75 per gross—boxed. Allow 3 lbs. Shipping weight Add 20% Fed. Tax to above items GRIEGER'S • 1633 E. WALNUT ST. • PASADENA 4, CALIFORNIA OUR STORE IS OPEN EVERY DAY 8:30 A.M. UNTIL 5:00 P.M. — CLOSED ALL DAY SUNDAY PHONE: SY. 6-6423

DESERT MAGAZINE DESERT CALENDAR October—There will be a special ex- hibit of the paintings of Manuel Rivera Regaldo depicting life in early California during the month at Southwest Museum, Los Angeles. October 3—Spanish Village Fiesta at Taos, New Mexico. October 3-4—Annual Apple Day at Julian. California. October 3-4—Feats of St. Francis of Assisi, Patron Saint of Santa Fe, Volume 16 OCTOBER, 1953 Number 10 New Mexico. October 4—Annual fiesta and dances at Nambe Indian pueblo. New COVER The Lighthouse, natural formation in Palo Duro Mexico. Canyon, Texas. Photograph by JOSEF MUENCH of Santa Barbara, California October 4-6—Annual Navajo Indian Fair at Shiprock, New Mexico. CALENDAR October events on the desert 3 October 6-10—Eastern New Mexico state fair at Roswell, New Mexico. PHOTOGRAPHY Pictures of the Month 4 October 8-11—Tri-State fair and ro- TRAVEL Mexican Tour—for Motorists deo at Deming, New Mexico. By RANDALL HENDERSON 5 October 12 — Annual Pegleg Smith DESERT QUIZ Liar's Contest and Gold Trek in A test of your desert knowledge 10 Borrego Valley, California. Hugh GHOST TOWN Woods, chairman in charge. Silver Strike at Belmont

October 16-17-18—16th Annual Pi- POETRY By NELL MURBARGER 11 oneer Days celebration at Twenty- nine Palms, California. Parade on FIELD TRIP Old Taos, and other poems 16 Saturday, 17. Gem Stones in the Bradshaws October 16-17-18 — Helldorado CONTEST program at Tombstone, Arizona. By JAY ELLIS RANSOM 17 Mayor Wally Foster, Chairman. EXPERIENCE Prizes for Photographers . 21 October 17-25—Graham County Fair Life on the Desert at Safford, Arizona. FICTION By ROBERT N. CARLILE 22 October 18-24—Southwestern Cattle LETTERS Festival at Clovis, New Mexico. Hard Rock Shorty of Death Valley 23 NEWS October 24—United Nations Day to Comment from Desert readers 26 be observed in Utah. CLOSE-UPS From Here and There on the Desert 27 MINING About those who write for Desert HOBBY Current news about desert mines 32 LAPIDARY Gems and Minerals 34 BOOKS Amateur Gem Cutter by LELANDE QUICK . . 33 COMMENT Reviews of Southwestern literature 41

The Desert MagazinJuse its Betweepublishedn monthlYou yan byd thMee Deser, by t thPresse Edito, Inc.r, Pal..m . Desen42, California. Re-entered as second class matter July 17, 1948, at the post office at Palm Desert, California, under the Act of March 3, 1879. Title registered No. 358865 in U. S. Patent Office, and contents copyrighted 1953 by the Desert Press, Inc. Permission to reproduce contents must be secured from the editor in writing. RANDALL HENDERSON, Editor MARGARET GERKE, Associate Editor BESS STACY. Business Manager EVONNE RIDDELL, Circulation Manager Unsolicited manuscripts and photographs submitted cannot be returned or acknowledged unless full return postage is enclosed. Desert Magazine assumes no responsibility for damage or loss of manuscripts or photographs although due care will be exercised. Sub- scribers should send notice of change of address by the first of the month preceding issue. SUBSCRIPTION BATES One Year $3.50 Two Years $6.00 Canadian Subscriptions 25c Extra, Foreign 50c Extra Subscriptions to Army Personnel Outside U. S. A. Must Be Mailed in Conformity With P. O. D. Order No. 19687 Address Correspondence to Desert Magazine, Palm Desert, California

OCTOBER, 1953 PICTURES OF THE MONTH...

Scitiet. . . Graceful arms of a giant saguaro cactus dip earthward in this photo- grapic composition by Clyde B. Smith of Berkeley, California. The picture, taken with a Speed Graphic camera, fast pan film, 23A filter, 1/5 second at f22, was awarded first prize in Desert Magazine's August photo contest.

. . . Dr. J. Robert Lindsay of Ganado, Ari- zona, photographed this Navajo woman at her loom to win second prize in August. Dr. Lindsay used a Speed Graphic camera, 1/100 second at f22. Mexican port of entry at Tijuana. Mexican Tour -- for Motorists

Thanks to Mexico's new highway-building program, and to the cross the international border between skill of Mexican engineers, it is now possible for a motorist from the the two countries. United States to cross the international border below Yuma, Arizona, Long lines of cars were inching or San Diego, California, and at two intermediate points, spend a day through the inspection gates at the or two making an easy trip along the Baja California side of the San Ysidro-Tijuana port of entry an international line—without passport restrictions. hour later when Cyria and I arrived By RANDALL HENDERSON there to begin our Mexican journey. Only 17 miles from San Diego, this Map by Norton Allen is one of the busiest ports along the ,OU DO NOT need a visa," der—entirely on Mexican soil, never entire border. Hundreds of curio the Mexican consul was tell- dipping more than 25 miles down into stores and eating places thrive on ing me," as long as you do the interior of the peninsula. Its con- American tourist dollars. Customs and not plan to stay more than three days, struction has been in progress for six immigration inspectors on both sides and your journey does not extend be- years, but it was not until a few months of the line are courteous, and they yond Tijuana, Ensenada, Mexicali, San ago that the last link was completed expedite the heavy flow of traffic as Felipe or San Luis." —the 15-mile grade that extends from much as possible. I had gone to Santiago A. Camp- the top of the Sierra Juarez down to I stopped at the American customs bell, the consul in San Diego, to inquire the floor of the desert in Mexicali Val- house before crossing the line to de- about passport requirements for a two- ley. It required four years to blast a clare my German-made camera. Cus- day motor trip over the 165-mile high- good roadbed out of the precipitous toms Form 4455 is a simple certificate way which the Mexican government east face of the Sierra Juarez, but the which would enable me to bring the has completed in recent months from Mexican engineers did a good job camera back into the United States Tijuana to San Luis near the Colorado while they were at it. later without question. The form is River in Sonora. I wanted this infor- What Sr. Campbell told me about used for the registration of dutiable mation not only for my own use but passport requirements was confirmed goods taken into Mexico with the in- also that I might pass it along to Des- at other ports of entry along the bor- tent of bringing them back into the ert Magazine readers who may wish der. It is the policy of Mexican offi- United States later. No special cer- to take this delightful weekend excur- cials to encourage tourist travel in tificate is required for automobiles, sion into colorful Baja California. their country, and they have made it however. The new highway parallels the bor- easy for Americans to cross and re- When I asked the customs inspector

OCTOBER, 1953 as to the amount of merchandise I the border town to see where the newly improving its facilities constantly dur- could buy in Mexico and bring back paved road would take us. ing the 12 years it has been in opera- duty-free, he handed me a small pam- We continued on an easterly course tion. Some of the colonists pay for phlet, Customs Hints, which contains along the Tijuana River where a check- their lodging and instruction at a mod- most of the information American erboard of little ranches covers the erate rate, and others work all or part tourists need to know. Briefly, the floor of the valley. Seven miles from time for the privilege of remaining law provides a general customs exemp- town our road crossed on the top of there. tion of $200 on merchandise bought in Rodriguez dam, constructed by Gen. We had lunch with Leo in the school Mexico by a person who remains 48 Abelado Rodriguez during his term as dining room, then continued our jour- hours on the Mexican side, and $300 governor of the Northern District of ney to the port of Tecate, four miles if the foreign tour extends to 12 days Baja California. Later he became away. Tecate is a minor gateway, and or more. This exemption is granted president of Mexico and today, as one is open only from 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 once every 31 days. of the Republic's elder statesmen, con- p.m. whereas the ports of Tijuana and However, along the California-Mex- tinues to play an important and con- Mexicali remain open around the clock. ico border the $200 exemption is structive role in his country's affairs. The top of the Sierra Juarez, which granted after a 24-hour absence, and Gradually the highway began to forms the backbone of the northern along the Arizona, New Mexico and climb the rolling hills which are the sector of the peninsula of Lower Cali- Texas border there is no time restric- western base of the Sierra Juarez. I fornia, is a broad plateau ranging in tion. was surprised at the extent of cultiva- elevation from 3500 to 5000 feet. Legally, there is no exemption for tion. Although rainfall is not plentiful There was little traffic to divert our the tourist on the California-Mexico in these hills, the Mexicans by dry-land attention and we found it a pleasant border who remains less than 24 hours farming methods have developed ex- and relaxing experience rolling along out of the United States. But in practice tensive olive groves, vineyards, peach the 40 miles between Tecate and the at Tijuana, Tecate, Mexicali and Algo- orchards and winter grain fields. eastern rim of the range where the dones, the four ports along the Cali- At 23 miles from Tijuana we came little settlement of Alaska is located. fornia boundary, the inspectors waive to the famed Rancho La Puerta also Lupine was in blossom along the road- duties on a purchase of $5.00 or less, known as Grape Valley Lodge, where side, and the plateau is covered by wholesale value. If you ask a curio Professor Edmond Bordeaux Szekely dense thickets of ribbonwood, man- dealer in Tijuana or Mexicali how directs the Essene School of health zanita and wild lilac. As we gained much you may take across the line he culture. During the last three years I altitude, pinyon appeared on the up- will tell you $7.50. But he is speaking have learned much about this colony lands with live oak along the dry in terms of retail value. from my friend, Leo Turner, former water courses. The peaks of the La- If merchandise of more than $5.00 Imperial Valley seed dealer, who has guna Mountains on the California side is brought across from Baja California found improved health and content- were always in sight. by a visitor who remains less than 24 ment there. Politically, the peninsula of Baja hours on the Mexican side, duty is Dr. Szekely has devoted much of California is divided into two districts, payable on the entire purchase, with his life to writing about and teaching Distrito Norte and Distrito Sur, both no exemption. the theory and practice of the grape of which until recently had the status I am passing this information along cure. The school grows its own grapes of territories. The Northern District because I believe the Baja California without irrigation, commercial fertilizer has now been granted statehood, and motor tour will become increasingly or insecticides—for it is only grapes will have the status of a full state as popular for Americans who are al- thus grown that retain the curative soon as elections are held for the selec- ways seeking new routes for their qualities attributed to them. Grapes tion of a governor and legislative body. weekend excursions. and grape juice are a major item in the The governor of the Northern Dis- As we passed the international gate, diet of those who live in the colony. trict during and following the Mexi- Mexican girls in white were in the Grapes, fresh air, sunshine and ex- can revolution of 1910 was Estaban street soliciting funds for the Mexican ercise are the four basic factors in the Cantu. He was an able administrator Red Cross. We did not tarry long in Essene school of health, and the col- who had received part of his educa- Tijuana. We were eager to be out of ony has been gaining students and tion in the United States. During the

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Swimming pool at Rancho La Puerto, or Grape Valley Students at Grape Valley Lodge find health and con- Lodge where Professor Edmond Szekely directs the tentment through a regular program of grapes, fresh Essene School of health culture. air, sunshine, study and exercise. period of turmoil in Mexico City which governor. Today there are a couple of grade we could see the broad expanse followed the hasty departure of Presi- service stations and a modest stock of of Imperial Valley extending to the dent Diaz, Cantu often found himself groceries available at the settlement. distant horizon in the northeast, and without instructions or with conflicting During his governorship Estaban to the Cocopah Range on the Mexican orders from his superiors at the na- Cantu constructed a passable road side of the line. Immediately below tional capital. Gradually he assumed connecting Mexicali with Tijuana. The was the little black butte known as more independent authority than is biggest obstacle was the rugged east Pinto Mountain. This has long been usually granted to a territorial execu- face of the Sierra Juarez. The gov- a fertile collecting area for rockhounds. tive and eventually the central govern- ernor's engineers finally overcame this Scattered around the base of the butte ment suspected him of conspiring to barrier by selecting the steepest pitch were many tons of petrified wood, and set up an independent republic in the and then blasting a zigzag trail from the butte itself is composed of a banded northern district. A crisis came when the floor of the desert to the site which rhyolite in beautiful shades of cream, the president of Mexico dispatched an later became Alaska. It was a terrific tan and red. The material is on the army under the command of Abelardo road with hairpin turns and barely Mexican side south of Coyote Wells. Rodriguez to cross the Gulf of Cali- wide enough for two cars to pass. Too many collectors were crossing fornia and put Cantu under arrest. Motorists who traveled that old road the border here without the usual cus- Rodriguez was one of the youngest will never forget the hazardous climb toms and immigration formalities, and generals in the Mexican army at that where the turns were so sharp it was both American and Mexican officers time, but he organized his expedition necessary for a car with a long wheel- began patrolling the area. That put so well that before he arrived in the base to back and turn two or three an end to the easy access to Mexico territorial capital of Mexicali, Cantu times to get around the corner. at this point, but recently I read that left his office and crossed to the United But that road served its purpose the Brawley, California, Gem and Min- States for refuge. until within the last year when a new eral Society had conducted an author- At a later date Gen. Rodriguez was generation of engineers with ample ized field trip to Pinto Mountain, appointed governor of the Northern funds selected an easier grade and crossing the border at the Calexico- District, and it was during his admin- blasted out millions of tons of hard Mexicali port and visiting the mineral istration in 1924 that he established a granite to provide a wide cut with field with an escort of Mexican officers. summer capitol on the top of the generous curves down to the floor of Our trip was in June, and when we Sierra Juarez at Alaska. For several the desert. Today the trip can be reached the floor of the desert the heat years a small company of soldiers was taken with pleasure, and with a grow- waves were shimmering over the great stationed here. The summer capitol ing sense of appreciation for the work expanse of Laguna Salada, the dry idea was abandoned after Gen. Rod- done by Mexico's highway department. lake which extends as far to the south riguez completed his tour of duty as Looking down from the top of the as the eye can see. Our road passed

OCTOBER, 1953 along the north end of the lakebed. When I first saw Laguna Salada in 1922 it was a lake about the size of Salton Sea. It was fed from overflow water from the Colorado River, which backed into the basin from a channel at the south end during periods when the Colorado was at flood peak. But the lake was shallow, and when three or four years passed without a new supply of water, it would evapo- rate and leave the basin dry. It was dry in 1927, and then a year or two later it filled again. Within two years it has evaporated, and now that Hoover dam holds back the flood waters 250 miles upstream it is unlikely that La- guna Salada ever again will be a lake. This prediction is doubly certain for the reason that in the construction of the new Mexicali-San Felipe highway the Mexican engineers filled in a long rock causeway across the lower neck of the Laguna for roadbed purposes, closing off the channel through which water formerly entered the basin. Flood waters of cloudburst propor- tions from the surrounding mountain ranges could create temporary pools in the bottom of the basin, but these would soon dry up. Extending back into the Sierra Juarez Range from the floor of the dry lake are 12 lovely palm canyons, some of which have been mapped and described in past issues of Desert Mag- azine. We crossed the Cocopah Range through a low pass at the base of Mt. Signal, and then our road entered the cultivated area of the Colorado delta, also called Mexicali Valley. In recent years Mexican farmers have so improved their farming meth- ods here that the fields, with an ample supply of water from the Colorado River, resemble in nearly every respect the cotton plantings in Imperial and Yuma Valleys. High cotton prices during the war years have enabled the ranchers to build comfortable homes, and the crude farming tools of the interior of Mexico have been replaced by the best American-made motor equipment. Then we came to Mexicali, capital city of the Northern District. Since I first saw Mexicali in 1922 it has grown from a community of 5000 people to a city of 65,000. The local residents will quote a much higher figure, but the Municipality of Mexicali covers the entire valley, which is not the way we estimate population in the United States. We remained overnight in Calexico Top—Mexican port of entry at Calexico. —where the Desert Magazine idea was Center—American customs house at Tecate port of entry born in the early '30s when I was publishing the Calexico Chronicle. The Bottom—American customs house at San Luis port of entry. next morning I visited the customs

DESERT MAGAZINE Colorado River ferry near San Luis, being operated until highway bridge can be replaced. office and the chamber of commerce The business streets in Mexicali, as Late in the 19th century Harry to obtain the latest information for in Tijuana, are lined with curio stores, Chandler of the Los Angeles Times, those readers who sooner or later will although, unlike Tijuana, tourist serv- and a group of associates in Southern be taking fishing or sight-seeing trips ices are not the major industry here. California, bought approximately a to the Gulf of California at San Felipe The business center of a half million million acres of this undeveloped delta 140 miles to the south. acres of land equal to the most fertile land and began bringing it under cul- The cost of Mexican fishing licenses in the United States—the delta of the tivation. Millions were spent in clear- is as follows: 3 days 75c, 30 days Colorado River—Mexicali is mainly ing mesquite, leveling dunes and build- $1.00, 3 months $2.00, 1 year $3.00. an agricultural community. ing irrigation canals. Cotton gins were These licenses may be obtained from Continuing our journey along the brought in and the first cottonseed oil Mexicali officials at the international paved road at mid-morning we soon mill constructed. gate, or in advance by writing to In- passed the cotton gins and cottonseed Chandler had the vision to see the ternational Sister Cities Tourist Club, oil mills on the outskirts of Mexicali possibilities of this great fertile valley Box 112, Calexico. The Club charges and again were in a land of cotton, in Mexico, but from what I have been a service fee of 10 cents for each li- alfalfa and grain ranches. able to learn it was never a highly cense. At seven miles we came to the junc- profitable venture. In the 1920s and For a stay of less than 72 hours no tion where the San Felipe road swings 1930s, when the Agrarian movement visa or tourist permit is required. For off toward the Gulf of California to gained momentum in Mexico, settlers a more extended period, up to six the south. This is now a popular road came from the interior and took over months, the Mexican consul in Cal- for American sportsmen, many of approximately 250,000 acres of the exico or San Diego or elsewhere will whom carry their own boats on trail- improved land, under the sponsorship issue a visa for $5.00. Each person is ers or racked on top of their cars. of the Agrarian Reform Movement. allowed to bring back not more than We passed through the little adobe Mexico City, desirous of effecting 50 pounds or one fish if the weight is settlements of Packard, Polvara, Cu- an amicable settlement with the above that limit. Fish in excess of this cupa, Hechicera, Bataques and Santa American owners, subsequently ar- quantity are subject to Mexican export Rosa. Beyond Bataques a dirt road ranged for the payment of indemnities duty. takes off on the left to the port of through the United States-Mexican Fresh water fish may be caught in Algodones. The American port is Mixed Claims Commission and event- the Hardy River at El Mayor, or boats Andrade. We preferred to stay on the ually acquired the remaining property. are available for deep sea fishing at paving and continue to the port of San The total reported recoveries amount San Felipe. There is no closed season Luis. to somewhat less than the cost of the except on totuava (deep sea bass) Our road here is not far from the original improvements. which may not be caught from March historic route blazed by Juan Bautista The highway led us to the banks of 20 to April 30. de Anza and his first caravan of Cali- the Colorado River at a point a few For a party of six persons a boat fornia settlers 178 years ago. Later miles downstream from where the dis- may be chartered for $50 a day. came Gen. Kearny with his Army of astrous break-through in 1905 flooded Smaller boats also are available at the West and the Mormon Battalion, Imperial Valley lands and formed the varying rates, or a day's fishing may sent to bring the California territory present Salton Sea. Today, Hoover be arranged on one of the commercial into the federal union. At a still later and six other dams in the lower Colo- boats. Accommodations are available date, but for a brief period only, the rado above here give assurance that at both El Mayor and San Felipe. Butterfield stage coaches rattled along such a flood disaster will never occur However, it is good insurance to have this trail toward San Diego and Los again. By the time it reaches Mexico, bedrolls in the back of the car. Angeles. the Colorado is now a completely

OCTOBER, 1953 tamed stream and we saw only a slug- The old Rockwood gate, named for to San Luis—had been treated cour- gish channel of clear water scarcely 75 the engineer who is credited with hav- teously by Mexican officials and civili- yards wide. ing saved Imperial Valley from com- ans all along the line. They are a When the road was paved from plete inundation when the Colorado warm-hearted people, the Mexicans, Mexicali to San Luis on the Sonora broke through in 1905, is now an and somehow seem to remain well-fed side of the river, a pile bridge was con- abandoned structure. The Americans and happy without the push and hurry structed. Within two months the bridge ceased using it in the 1930s when the of their American neighbors. It is went out. The engineers probably had All-American canal was built. good to know that kind of people—and to do a lot of explaining, for the river We had spent an easy day and a half occasionally, at least, to accept and at this point presents no serious engi- motoring the 165 miles from Tijuana enjoy their tempo of life. neering problems. Materials are now being brought in for a new bridge. In the meantime a crude current- There's no law against guessing in this con- driven ferry boat has been installed. test So '*' this is y°ur 'ucky day you may There were waiting lines on both sides get a good score even if you do not know of the stream when we arrived, for the much about the Great American Desert. But in any event you'll learn flatboat takes its own time to make something by taking this Quiz. Twelve to 14 is a fair score, 15 to 17 is the crossing and even with the help of good, 18 or over is super-good. The answers are on page 23. boatmen wielding long poles it was a 1—A rattlesnake has—One fang in its lower jaw Two fangs in its tedious trip. The ferry has a capacity lower jaw Two fangs in its upper jaw Two fangs each of six cars, but only four were taken in both jaws across at a time. In order to shove off 2—According to the most generally accepted version, Pegleg Smith's it was necessary that all the cars move lost hill of the gold nuggets was located in—The Colorado desert of as far forward as possible, thus rais- Southern California The Mojave desert Death Valley ing the stern to a floating level. Then Southern Arizona in mid-stream we all backed our cars 3—The English translation of Canyon del Muerto is—Canyon of the to the other end so the prow would Rocks Canyon of the Dead . Canyon of the Hermit float high enough to reach the land- Canyon of the Ancients ing. There were no guard rails on the 4—Smoke trees generally are found—On rocky hillsides Around boat, and Mexicans stood by with desert waterholes In dry arroyos In salty marshes wheel-blocks to be tossed under the 5—Jojoba is the name of a desert lizard Rodent Indian car if a driver become jittery and was dance Shrub in danger of going overboard. It is all 6—Meteorites are found—Only around volcanic craters Deep in a gay adventure for the Mexican boat- underground mines In sandstone formations Almost any- men, and not a serious hazard to driv- where ers who keep their nervous systems 7—Billy the Kid was involved in—The Lincoln County War.... . The under good control. Mountain Meadows Massacre The siege of the Alamo____ The ferry charge is five pesos a car. The capture of Geronimo With the current value of pesos at 8—Lee's Ferry was at one time a crossing on the—Rio Grande 8.65 for a dollar, it amounted roughly Humboldt River . Gila River Colorado River to 60 cents. We found all along the 9—The monument of Hadji AH (Hi Jolly) the camel driver is located border that American money is no less at—Prescott, Arizona Wickenburg, Arizona Quartzsite, acceptable than pesos. Arizona Tucson, Arizona Two miles beyond the ferry our 10—Laguna Indian Pueblo is located in—Arizona New Mexico border journey ended at San Luis. This Utah Nevada sleepy little Mexican community is at 11—The Indians who obtained food and beverage from the Saguaro the end of the paved road, although I cactus were—The Papagos The Hopis The Paiutes was told that plans have been made The Zunis for extending it east to Nogales. San 12—The Great White Throne is in — Capitol Reef National Monu- Luis is on the Arizona border, at the ment Nevada's Valley of Fire White Sands National southern end of Yuma Valley, and a Monument Zion National Park paved road extends north through 13—The padre best known in connection with Capt. Juan Bautista de Gadsden and Somerton to Highway 80 Anza's California expedition in 1775-76 is — Father Kino at Yuma. Father Font Father Escalante Father Gomez To complete our tour of all the 14—The U. S. Bureau of Indian Affairs is under the jurisdiction of the California border ports we recrossed Secretary of Interior Secretary of Welfare and Education the Colorado River going west on Secretary of State Secretary of Commerce Highway 80, and then, on the Cali- 15—Butch Cassidy was a—Famous stage driver Notorious out- fornia side of the stream, took a gravel law Virginia City gambler Mountain Man road south two miles to the Andrade- 16—Most northerly of the following desert cities is—Albuquerque Algodones port of entry. Phoenix Palm Springs Las Vegas, Nevada 17—Quicksilver comes from—Cinnabar Fluorite Quartz From Algodones it is a short but Feldspar rough motor ride out to the new Mo- 18—If you were at Death Valley's Furnace Creek Inn, the sun would relos Dam, recently constructed by the go down behind the — Wasatch Mountains Funeral Moun- Mexican government to divert water tains San Gorgonio Mountains Panamint Mountains for the great irrigation system in Baja 19—The Desert Rat Scrap Book is edited by—Oren Arnold Jerry California. Before the completion of Laudermilk Tony Richardson Harry Oliver this dam the Mexican system was 20—Roosevelt Dam is in the — Gila River Colorado River served through Rockwood heading on Salt River Rio Grande the American side.

10 DESERT MAGAZINE Belmont as it appears today. Silver Strike at Belmont ....

In the 1860s when silver assaying as high as $10,000 a ton was Driving on to the head of the street, discovered in the Toquima Mountains in Nevada the hills "became I halted my car at the front door of black with prospectors" and within a few months a tent and shack a big stone-masonry building, which town of 6000 persons sprang up like a mirage on the desert. Here is the originally served as executive offices story of Belmont camp as it was—and as Nell Murbarger found it today. of the Combination Milling company. By NELL MURBARGER Photographs by the author Map by Norton Allen • ORDERED BY sage and juni- There was the tall brick chimney, still per and space without end, a pointing skyward like the finger of long lonely road leads northerly doom; and the cemetery, where so from Tonopah, Nevada. In all its many of Belmont's stalwarts lie sleep- length of 150 miles, that road serves ing. but a scant dozen persons, and its Another half a mile and I was en- only town is the bleaching skeleton of tering the outlying fringe of dwellings Belmont—once the unchallenged queen —once the sporting district—and on of Southern Nevada mining camps. the hillside to the rear I could see that To have known Belmont during her a few tiny stone cabins still marked opulent past was not my good fortune, the one-time site of Chinatown. as she had flowered and faded and Glancing across the ravine, to the fallen to rubble long years before I left, I was relieved to see that the old was born. But, even in her ruin, she Nye county courthouse still stood; is a pleasant place—especially to an still as square and unadorned as a inveterate dreamer of dreams — and three-story bank vault, still as indom- whenever I head my car out that lonely itable as the Bank of England. way it is with the good feeling of going home. All that is left of the 80-stamp ore Time, however, has a bad habit of mill slipping through our fingers; and when I left Tonopah for Belmont, one day last June, nearly two years had passed since I had visited the old town. All the way through dusty Ralston Valley I was apprehensive. How much change would there be at Belmont? How many of the old buildings would have collapsed; how many of the old timers have died? As I neared the head of the valley and familiar landmarks came into view, I was reassured. There was the tumbled chaos of stone and twisted iron where the big wooden mill once had stood.

OCTOBER, 1953 U ~-..---"•""---- -"-i^S •J8FrVS^s^: To EUREKA IO6Mi. childhood impressions are more en- during than those of later life, it seemed possible that Mrs. Walter might recall some facets of local history which my other mentors had overlooked. I de- cided to await her return. Thanking Sarah I headed my car back down the street. Driving slowly and scanning the old buildings, I mentally catalogued the ravages of Time. At the Cosmopolitan Music Hall, where the child artist, Fay Templeton, had played to applauding throngs, I could see that the second floor balcony had fallen, and the roof seemed to sag a little more than I had remem- bered. Ernst & Esser's big brick-faced mercantile, which had stocked every- thing from Paris perfume to hob-nailed boots, was the same hollow-eyed roof- less ruin it had been for 20 years past. The old false-fronted jewelry store, the assay office, the several cafes—there seemed little change in any of them; and, for this, I was thankful. Circling to the right near the old Chinese restaurant, I eased my car across the rocky ravine and pulled up the short, steep rise, to the front yard of the courthouse. For two generations this yard has served as a campsite for roving prospectors and Indians, and assorted wayfarers—like myself. The sun was still a little too high for starting supper, and I was glad for the opportunity to prowl once again through this fine old building. Examining these rugged walls, still beautifully true and sound after 80 years of buffeting by the weather, and the indignities suffered during half a century of abandonment, it was almost inconceivable that every brick em- ployed in that construction, every pound of cement used in concrete and mortar and plaster, had been fired in Belmont kilns; that every stone in that massive foundation, had been hewn from the hard heart of the Toquimas. Only the joists and roof timbers, the After having been built at a reported and had told me many a story of the door hardware and the glass windows, cost of $20,000, the immense structure early days there, had died in March; had been freighted from the world was sold eventually for fifty dollars and the same week they had buried outside. back taxes. As long back as I can Aunt Kit, they also had buried Eliza- remember, it had been occupied by Jim beth Goldbach, another of the oldest Climbing the front steps of the Hughes and his Indian housekeeper, old-timers. building, 1 looked in upon a scene of Sarah. When I asked Sarah if this meant devastation. Plaster, fallen from the My limited abilities as a linguist that she was the town's last surviving ceiling, formed a white carpet upon have never been quite equal to Sarah's inhabitant, she said no, that Mrs. the floor; corners were banked with mother tongue, which seems to be a Goldbach's daughter, Rose Walter, rat litter and debris; and deep over mixture of Nevadan, Mexican, and and her husband, Jack, were again liv- everything, lay the desert dust of 50 Paiute. The best I can do is to follow ing there. They had gone to Manhat- years. the general trend of her news. On this tan that day for their mail, she said, Picking my way along the ground- occasion all her news seemed to be and would not be back until late. floor corridor, I climbed the creaking bad. I had heard of Rose Walter, but had stairway to the second floor, and still "Jeemy"—Jim Hughes — she said, never met her. I seemed to recall that another flight of stairs to the building's had died in the hospital at Tonopah. she had been born on a ranch a few huge, square cupola. There, eight tall "Aunt Kit" Anderson, who had been miles out of town and had known the windows afford an unobstructed view born at Belmont almost 80 years ago old camp during its later days. As of desolation unlimited.

12 DESERT MAGAZINE Like a movie set of a bomb-de- stroyed city, rise the jagged fangs of broken rock buildings — foundations without walls, walls without roofs, chimneys without smoke. Beyond the last fallen wall and caving cellar lie the abandoned mine dumps, and aban- doned shafts, and abandoned mills— and it almost seemed as if I could see the abandoned dreams. But nowhere in all that expanse could I glimpse one living, breathing creature; neither man, nor dog, nor horse, nor burro. That any place so devoid of life could have pulsed with the turbulent vitality of early Belmont was hard to believe. Of this town's birth and de- velopment I had been told, many times. And now, as I stood in the old cupola, gazing through its glassless windows at that lonely scene of ruin and rubble, those stories came flood- ing back to mind, like sand pouring through an endless hourglass. The early 1860s had been momen- tous, fabulous times, in Nevada Terri- tory. Sparked by that history-making discovery on Sun Mountain, prospec- tors had fanned out over the land in a frenzied search for a second Corn- stock. Even though no second Corn- stock was ever found, out of that hopeful hegira had come ore discov- eries which resulted in the founding of many great mining camps — Austin, Eureka, Hamilton, Pioche. Among the less important camps founded had been lone, which soon came to func- tion as the first seat of Nye county. While mining circles were still dis- cussing the potential future of that place, an even more auspicious strike had been made on the east slope of the Toquimas, 50 airline miles to the east. Like a moth emerging from its chrysalis, the new camp of Belmont had developed. One day there had been a few ragged prospectors' tents spotted over the slope, a few burros grazing along the run-off from a spring. The next day, in a manner of speaking, there had been 6000 boomers milling over that same slope! Freight teams and heavy wagons were churning the dust of newly-plotted streets. Claims were Above—Once the seat of Nye County, a courthouse was built of brick being staked right and left. Shafts and lime burned at local kilns. were being sunk, tunnels driven. Al- Below—Many famous players of 80 years ago played at the old Cosmo- most around the clock the juniper- politan Music Hall. grown hills echoed to sounds of pound- ing and sawing and quarrying. Tents demands that the county's seat of within a year Belmont would have a were replaced by houses of log and government be transferred to that population of 10,000 persons. stone, business structures rose—and place. To Belmont, the harvesting of "Col. Buel's mill has extracted before she was two years old, Belmont this luscious plum was regarded as a $100,000 of silver bullion from 1000 was casting envious eyes at the Nye ticket to success and immortality. tons of Highbridge ore, all taken from county seat. The Silver Bend Reporter, a weekly within 25 feet of the surface; and there newspaper, was founded by Oscar L. are 80 stamps on the road for the Early in 1867, over the vigorous C. Fairchild & Co., and in Vol. 1, No. Combination and Child and Canfield and bitter protest of lone, Nevada's 1 — issued March 30, 1867 — this companies, which will make our bul- State legislature acceded to Belmont's fledgling news medium predicted that lion yield something over $200,000

OCTOBER, 1953 13 per month before the summer is over. and a kiln of lime has been burned," had pulled me into their big clean The hills," exulted The Reporter, "are reported the Courier. kitchen, fragrant with pine wood and beginning to blacken with prospectors." With its completion the new court- bursting with that rare good warmth Before the end of April, in that house had been hailed as one of the that comes only from a wood-burning year of 1867, The Reporter had ad- finest public buildings in the state. range. Despite my protests that I had vised its subscribers that a sample of And now, to look out over this already breakfasted, I was pushed into ore from the Combination company's scene of desolation and ruin was to a chair at the kitchen table, and a claim, the Highbridge, had assayed realize that all this had been a long couple of minutes later was eating my $10,247.79 a ton in silver. Colonel while ago. Time had been moving way into a stack of piping hot wheat- Buel had left for Paris with a cabinet forward—not only the years, but the cakes layered with homemade butter of Nevada silver to show at the Inter- time of that afternoon. The sun had and brown sugar syrup, and trimmed national Exposition. Clay for brick slipped down the western sky until it with ham and eggs. manufacturing had been discovered in was barely clearing the mountaintop, As I ate we talked of Belmont, and abundance four miles west of town, and long dark shadows were already her fast-thinning ranks of old timers. and three large brick kilns were to be stealing across the town and up toward Rose said that her mother, the late built immediately. Crowell and Myers' my campsite at the front door of the Mrs. Goldbach, had come to Belmont sawmill was producing 4000 feet of old courthouse. A definite chill had from New York in 1880, at the age of lumber every 10 hours: H. P. Stimler crept into the air, for at 7000 feet 19 years. Soon after her arrival here, had opened the Belmont News Depot, above sea level, in Nevada, summer is she had met Mr. Goldbach and their and, according to his announcement, little more than a quick breath. marriage had taken place in 1883 at would stock "The Sacramento Union, Retracing my way down the stairs, the Belmont home of George Ernst, Territorial Enterprise, Reese River I began preparations for the night. pioneer surveyor of Nye county and Reveille, cigars and stationery." Other Traveling alone on the desert has the grandfather of Nevada's present gov- new arrivals on the business front had effect of paring life to its barest essen- ernor, Charles H. Russell. included an oyster house, bakery, two tials, and my camps are never elabor- Following their marriage, the Gold- physicians, a drug store, fruit store, ate affairs. and watch-repairing shop. bachs had settled on a ranch on Bar- Shoveling a shallow pit in the lee ley Creek, a few miles north of town, An editorial deplored the fact that of my car, I built a small open fire and and there Rose had been born. cooked my supper of Campbell's soup there had never been a public school "As a little tot, I thought coming in Nye county, and urged that Bel- and boiled eggs and tea—using the concrete threshold of the courthouse to Belmont was the most exciting ex- mont be the first county town publicly perience in the world," said Rose. "It to recognize the importance of edu- as a kitchen cabinet, and later, as a dining table. After supper I unrolled was the largest town I had ever seen, cation. my sleeping bag on the ground, and and even Wanamakers couldn't have And just as proof that even in 1867 in the back seat of the car typed sev- looked any grander to me than Ernst there were editors dissatisfied with the eral pages of notes. & Esser's store! It seemed to me I administration of government, The Re- could look for days and not see even porter had proposed a toast: "Here's By the time I had finished, a thin half of the wonderful things on their to our governor. He came in with new moon was swinging overhead and shelves." glinting ghostily from the smooth brick very little opposition; he goes out with Throughout her grade school days none at all." face of the old building. In all that sprawling town, the only man-made she had attended the little adobe This, then, was the frontier boom light I could see was a faint flicker in schoolhouse which now stands in ruin camp to which the county seat of gov- the kitchen window at Indian Sarah's. on the hillside across from the Walter ernment was transferred in May, 1867. A few bats came out to swoop and home. I remarked that several years As Nye's taxpayers had but recently dive in pursuit of night insects, and it before, while walking through the sage- completed the erection of a courthouse seemed like a good time to call it a brush east of the schoolhouse, I had at lone, they were not in a financial day. found the remains of an old organ. frame of mind to begin immediately Dawn found every whisker of grass the construction of a new courthouse "It was a melodeon," corrected upholstered in hoar frost, and the top Rose. "The sweetest little melodeon at Belmont. County offices, as a con- portion of my sleeping bag, where sequence, were temporarily housed in anyone ever saw! Long after the school moisture from my breath had con- had been discontinued here and the various store buildings leased for that densed, was stiff and white with icy purpose. building abandoned, its interior re- crystals. The thermometer registered mained completely furnished, just as Not until seven years later was the 28 degrees Fahrenheit. it had been at the last session of school. contract awarded for erection of a mas- As soon as the sun had topped the In time, of course, the roof began to sive brick courthouse that would do hill to the east and softened the cold, leak, the adobe walls crumbled, and credit to what was then, as now, one I prepared and ate breakfast, took care all the furnishings were eventually de- of the three largest counties in the of my simple camp chores, and then stroyed by the weather." United States. went out to prowl over the hillside in Among Belmont relics rescued by Work of grading got under way in search of possible souvenirs. the Walters are a couple of old ledgers the late summer of 1874, and in Sep- Presence of a pick-up truck in the used by the general store in 1876. Leaf- tember of that year, Belmont Courier yard of the Walter home showed that ing through their stiff pages, now grow- announced that the joist timbers were they had returned sometime during ing yellow and brittle at the edges, we on their way from Alpha (a station on the night. Before too long, a gray found prices far different than those the now defunct Eureka & Palisades plume of smoke began curling from of today. Flour was $8.50 per 100 Railroad) and that J. D. Benham, the their chimney. After what seemed a pounds; cheese, 30 cents a pound, su- contractor, had a large force of work- decent interval, I presented myself at gar 25 cents. Coal oil was quoted at men employed making brick and haul- their door. $1.50 a gallon, tomatoes 50 cents a ing rock. "About 60,000 brick are Even before I had time to intro- can, and white fish was charged to already molded and laid up in the kiln, duce myself, Jack and Rose Walter one of the miners' boarding houses at 14 DESERT MAGAZINE $36 a barrel. When ladies of that day bought yardage for a new dress, they had their choice of several materials with prices ranging from calico at 12 cents a yard, to velvet at a dollar a yard. Another strange relic owned by the Walters is a pair of handsomely tooled millstones, the two weighing nearly a quarter of a ton. While the stones are of a type used in early-day flour mills, the Walters found no other evidence of a mill at the point where the stones were located. Later in the day, Rose and I drove up to East Belmont, at one time quite a town in its own right. Just beyond the crest of the divide which separates Ralston and Monitor valleys, we halted to explore the ruins of the great Com- bination mill, built in the late 1860s at the reported cost of $225,000. In its issue of August 24, 1867, the Silver Bend Reporter announced that the 250,000 pound cargo of machinery necessary to the operation of this 40- stamp reduction works, was en route from San Francisco in huge freight wagons drawn by 14 heavy teams of Rose Walter, born not far jrom Belmont, with a pair of mill stones which 10 mules each. Freight costs from have survived the years. San Francisco to Belmont, said the Reporter, would involve more than and those feverish days in which Judge greatest mining strikes in the history $17,000. Colt was too frequently employed as of Nevada. a referee. The immediate effect of that boom Still intact, near the center of the Rose related the oft-told tale of the on aging Belmont had been to drain mill, is the treasure room — a large tragic lynching of Jack Walker and away her last remaining strength so brick-lined vault, with a ponderous Charles Mclntyre in 1874. She showed that the general election of 1903 had steel door. As rapidly as the silver was me the brick building in which these found her able to muster but 36 quali- cast into bars, the bullion was stored unfortunates had met their doom, and fied electors. During the year that fol- in this place until such time as it she guided me to the site of their un- lowed, Tonopah had succeeded in might be shipped to the mint. marked graves beneath a pinyon pine wresting from her the county seat, and From the Combination mill we at the lower edge of town. with loss of her official prestige, the turned off on two dim wheel tracks With her husband acting as promp- old camp in the Toquimas had given which led to the east along the shoulder ter, her stories ran the gamut of stage one last weary sigh and laid down her of the ravine. All this area is strewn hold-ups and buried treasure and jail arms. with the remains of stone buildings breaks, and there were gayer anecdotes And now, even that last sigh is half and foundations. of celebrations and dances and the a century in the past. excitement that prevailed whenever a As the car coasted slowly along the Every man who labored in the old long train of freight wagons would ar- dry slope, Rose kept peering to the Combination mill, every mucker who rive with merchandise for Belmont's left and eventually directed me to halt. toiled in the Highbridge mine, has stores. A short walk brought us to the under- vanished like the winds of yesterday. ground kiln where limestone had been After the demonetizing of silver, Judges, juries, attorneys, litigants, all burned for the plaster and cement said Rose, Belmont was never the same those who thronged the old courtroom used in construction of the courthouse. prosperous place as before, and by in search of justice or redress have The kiln was a simple arrangement, the end of the 19th century, it was long been forgotten. But the old court- almost like a cistern but with the addi- plain that her days as an active camp house which listened so briefly to man's tion of upper and lower vents for drafts. were drawing to a close. trials and tribulations, still stands four- One morning in May, 1900, James square to the world—as rugged as the From the kiln we continued on to L. Butler, Monitor Valley rancher and pioneers who built it; as defiant of the Monitor Belmont flotation mill. district attorney of Nye county, had time as the Nevada clay from which it Built during Belmont's most recent at- felt the springtime urge to go prospect- was made. tempted revival, in 1915, this 10-stamp ing. Relegating his ranch duties to his mill operated for a couple of years on Heading my car back toward Tono- wife and his courtroom duties to a pah in the late afternoon of the third tailings, before closing. The operation young assistant, Tasker L. Oddie (later was not marked by any great success. day, I was thankful that Belmont had to be governor of Nevada) Butler had not changed too greatly since my last Like its predecessors it also is falling headed south toward the little camp to ruin. previous visit. I was thankful that even of Klondike. The night of May 18 had in her ruin, she is still a pleasant place Throughout that evening and most found him camped at Tonopah Springs. where a dreamer may sit in the warm of the next day I remained with the On the morning following, he had made sunshine, and, in fancy, may recapture Walters. Almost every waking moment the discovery which was to precipitate some fragment of the glory that was of that time we talked of this old camp the stampede to Tonopah—one of the hers.

OCTOBER, 1953 15 Old By GASTON BURRIDGE Downey, California Dark mountains leap against a shimmering sky Where strips of cloud-lace pattern weave hard blue And lapis hazes web their magic flue Below. Old Taos stands five stories high In massed adobe strength—a perfect tie Between the dome and earth. This structure grew From love and want of home—by pieces— through Long years, until beneath it, ages lie. When man builds useful things of simple source Which stand the acid breath of year's deep flood Their heights become his greatest monument Because its roots tap Nature's living force. Old Taos has this sort of strength. The blood Of time has cooled and now it sleeps content.

CALIFORNIA RIVER By MARY ALDEN CAMPBELL Long Beach, California This dry rocky waste and old sun-beaten gravel? This glare of hot sand and no water what- ever? Who believes it a river? And the valley said, "I. It made me and keeps me; My garden, my orchard, I owe to its JOSHUA TREES THE DESERT favor: By MARY E. BORUM IS A HAUNTING PLACE I believe in the river." Dinuba, California By MRS. GRACE B. WILSON And the rabbit said, "I. Dumb guardians of desert lands, Kirtland, New Mexico This bank for my burrow With lifted arms and speaking hands, The desert is a haunting place for shades Has weed for my forage and brush for What greetings do you signal each to each? Of things as ancient as the earth. The moon my cover: Warnings of wind, or desert shower? In whiteness lights the way for phantom I believe in the river." Fraternal salutation? raids Or sly derision of the antics Of warriors. Background winds intone a And the alder said, "I. Of the human population? tune Its underground channel Of mocking mystery. The high, cool stars Is drink for my root, my branch and DOCUMENTARY Cast only random flickerings of light, leaf saver: By GORDON LECLAIRE Pale blue, or yellow, or the red of Mars, I believe in the river." Montreal, Quebec Where long-departed spirits walk by night. And the rancher said, "I. Daylong we drove I drained it by furrow Through sunburst land, TOMBSTONE REVERIE For life to my vineyard, my olives, my Where shimmering whorls By ANNE GORHAM BREWSTER clover: Of agate sand Tombstone, Arizona I believe in the river." Rippled a rainbowed A tranquil town here drowses in the sun, Signature, Atop its mesa stretching lazy length. So wait, scoffer, wait for the winter-uprising, As if some hand, The dreaming desert and the silent hills When a torrent roars down and the rocks Unseen but sure, Enfold it softly with their gentle strength are bowled over: Limned on the desert's And ageless mountains guard eternally. You'll believe in the river! Witchery The turbulence of greed and hate for- The autograph sworn Of Eternity. This quiet town rests in serenity, THE OLD RANGE Ungodliness renounced and soul reborn. By PEARL RIGGS CROUCH RIDING THE TRAILS Ashland, Oregon By GRACE STILLMAN MINCK A rolling rim of earth and sky, Anacortes, Washington Far distances that lure the eye When I am riding desert trails Through vistas where an ether sea I feel that somehow I Flows on to meet infinity. Am really riding on and on By TANYA SOUTH For entrance in the sky; Across the plain, a slender thread— And some day, maybe, as I go Mute memory of life long fled— With eyes caught on a star, The portal opens wider yet. A trail deserted yet is left, I'll hear a gate close just behind I stand upon the threshold waiting, By many a vanished hoof deep cleft. And see I've gone so far And all the future of my Fate All old horizons are erased Is on this light debating. The voice of summer echoes low Forever, granting me For as we see and comprehend, Where faded grasses dimly blow; The right to wander heavenly trails Thus do we Life amend. And solitude, profound, supreme, A sweet eternity. Broods like the spirit of a dream.

16 DESERT MAGAZINE Monty McWilliams, Castle Hot Springs barber and Castle Hot Springs, Arizona, lies in the center of a gemologist who lived in the Bradshaw Mountains 28 fantastically prolific rock-hunting area. Agates, quartz, years before he discovered the beauty of the rocks in even crystals lie on the slopes rising directly above the that area. hot plunges. Gem Stones in the Bradshaws By JAY ELLIS RANSOM In a remote mountain region in south central Arizona Jay Ransom and Photographs by the author his father found a fertile field for the rock collectors—and also they encountered Map by Norton Allen some fine Arizona hospitality. Here is the story of a virgin gem area, and of the man who discovered it. McWILLIAMS lived he told us a nutshell account of his as- inches long, streaked with asbestos on the desert 28 years—and sociation with gem stones. inclusions that looked like rutile, he then overnight discovered that "For 28 years," he said over a handed it to my mineralogist father. the hills and canyons and mesas around sample table loaded with gemstones "I've picked up dozens of crystals like him were sprinkled with stones which, of every description, "I rode or hiked this one," he said modestly, "right up when cut and polished, contained more these mountains looking for gold, there next to that peak." fascination than he thought was in the never finding it. I'd about concluded He pointed across the shining green whole land. these hills were utterly worthless until lawn of the hotel with its blue scalloped Monty is the barber at Castle Hot a visitor taught me other things to swimming pool to the ragged moun- Springs in Arizona, a lovely but little look for — quartz rocks like agates, tains that rise abruptly from the nar- known spa tucked away in a deep crystals, chalcedony roses, geodes, and row sun-filled canyon. "Strange how wrinkle in Arizona's Bradshaw Moun- so on — and overnight I found what all those 28 years I'd been walking tains. It is 24 miles by a graded road I'd been missing all those years. Now, over a treasure-trove of rocks — that twists and climbs northeastward every time I hike out, it's a brand new some of the most beautifully fashioned from Morristown, a short distance from experience; it's easily added ten years agates and crystals this side of Brazil, Wickenburg. to my life span. I'm as eager as a kid, not to mention hundreds of Indian The Castle Hot Springs barber is never knowing what I'm going to find petroglyphs and artifacts of prehistoric slightly built, but tough and wiry. Hair over the next ridge." and later times." graying above sky blue eyes, his speech His eyes lighting with pleasure at Now after two years of collecting, is as clipped and Scottish as his name. having a chance to talk about his new Monty probably knows more about Impeccably dressed, it embarrasses experience with rocks, he gestured to the Bradshaw Mountains as far as gem him to have his photograph taken. the hundreds of gleaming specimens. stone minerals are concerned than any Ruefully, in the morning after we'd Picking up a magnificent water-clear man living. Ransom Senior and I arrived to camp out in the Bradshaws, crystal an inch in diameter and three stared in increasing amazement as, one

OCTOBER, 1953 17 h 1.6 Miles from Resort ' to Mouth of Canyon. : "

A6ATES l5'D#OP&'j ROSES , IJQUARTZ

TO PLEASANT LAKE 93 Ml., MARINETTE 26 Ml. S^'UUl. by one, we identified the two-score and porous black lava chunks bigger "Not far from here," Monty said, varieties on display. 1 found it diffi- than my head on which were incised breaking into my thoughts, "are such cult to believe that so prolific a gem the delicate figures and symbols of famous early day points of interest as hunter's paradise—so close to one of ancient Indian petroglyphs. Indian Mound, historic Crater Can- America's most lavish American-plan "A university professor stopped by yon, Four Tanks and Hell Gates—all hotels—could be so completely un- here," Monty explained, "and he said names to conjure with. known to the rock hunting fraternity. those prehistoric tribes died out or I might explain here that my father The hotel itself is so remote and lost moved away centuries before the and I had stumbled onto this paradise in the southern Bradshaws that many Apaches started hiding out around the of rock hunting quite by accident, fol- residents of Phoenix, 31 miles to the canyon waterholes. I've found scores lowing only the vaguest of rumors that south, do not even know of its exist- of their camp sites." He went on to at Castle Hot Springs we would find ence. Its clientel comes exclusively tell how the rugged Bradshaws be- something to surprise us. The wind- from areas east of Chicago. No won- longed to the Apaches 70 years ago. ing, tortuous dirt road out of Morris- der Dad and I felt an exhilarating "However much the Indians warred town discouraged us, late in the after- astonishment, stumbling onto this among themselves," he said, "they noon, for prospecting in likely draws brand new and extraordinarily exten- considered these hot springs a sort at intervals along the way. We didn't sive — if we were to believe Monty of common resting ground. They find anything that looked interesting— McWilliams — treasure field of gem wouldn't war on each other as long only a little quartzite showing faint stones. as they stuck to these canyons." How- promise of gem quartz somewhere. ever that may be, it is a matter of rec- On the table before us Monty had Then just before sunset, with shad- gathered dozens of finger size quartz ord that many a fierce war party swept ows of saguaros long on the road, we crystals with asbestos and green mossy down onto the gold-laden Wells Fargo dropped abruptly down into Castle inclusions. There were water-clear express stages bound from Wickenburg Hot Springs, astonished in the barren- crystals of many size. Gray, blue and to the Salt River Valley. That once- ness of the desert mountains to find white fortification agate came in nod- fabulous mining center contributed vistas of old palm trees, richly laden ules the size of my two fists. There bullion and scalps regularly through orange trees lining the entrance road were other agates of an amazing array a dozen bloody years. to the hotel, then a broad expanse of of colors, some containing drusy Looking out over the beautifully grassy lawn with a croquet game in quartz geode centers, others beautifully manicured resort grounds to where progress, and lastly around the scal- banded. We identified jasper in sev- mesquite, palo verde and fragrant loped tile lawn pool the lazy after din- eral varieties, and manganese and sil- greasewood shared the sun along the ner relaxation of the hotel guests. A ver ores of great beauty. Dumortierite craggy canyon walls above the stream half century of elegance lay over the vied with chalcedony roses and jasp- with giant saguaros, it was easy to resort with its ornate rococco work agate. Copper bearing specimens had visualize dark, fierce-eyed bandits di- along the eaves on a level with the tops come from the creek bed not » hun- viding up their loot while their women of the palms. dred yards from the hotel lawn. and scampering children worked and However, evening was deepening Around the corner from his barber played in the background. But now, rapidly and, being equipped for camp- shop Monty showed us his larger stuff in the soft January sunshine, birds ing out, we drove down the creek a — manganese in quartzite, metates, flew and sang their joyous songs. mile to camp among palo verde trees.

18 DESERT MAGAZINE \

Is •* • •

Banded and fortified agate from the Castle Hot Springs area, found on the moun- tain slope directly across the creek from the hotel. Dark bands are blue shading to gray. Markings on top are outcrops of darker bands. Drusy quartz crystals line center geode. The road south of the springs follows salad gathered from the stream, and oasis in the rocky Arizona desert seems for miles down the creek bed, in and aromatic coffee, we listened to the to provide a haven for some of North out of water, leading to widely scat- night birds uttering their calls in the America's most colorful and least- tered cattle and guest ranches. With palo verde trees. known species. Later I learned that the purpling shadows filling the can- On both sides of the creek the moun- amateur ornithologists have listed more yon and a brilliant mauve and gold tains rose sharply, and against the than 60 species of feathered friends, sunset flaming above the ragged peaks, starry sky the giant branched saguaros including migrants north or south we made a comfortable camp. Soon stretched their sentinel arms. Here, bound, resting and visiting. a lovely palo verde wood fire supplied encircled by the foothills of the Brad- There was the Black Phoebe that coals to cook over and light to see by. shaw Mountains, under wide warm returns every winter to the hot pools, The music of clear running water skies the golden day had now/ become and the large Cactus Wren in from over moss covered stones and through a quiet night that soothed and lifted the desert to feast along the creek. luxuriant growths of watercress filled us out of our hectic world. All about And, of course, we saw dozens of the evening air. From above, where us flitted the ghosts of the past—the streamlined Roadrunners — those the remuda of horses belonging to the winking fires of wild Apaches camped strange birds who run better than they resort milled in the corrals or grazed along this same creek and prehistoric fly. All afternoon Western Meadow- along the creek came the snuffling and basketmakers long forgotten save for larks had whirred up from the can- snorting of contented beasts. crude carved figures in black basalt. yons, singing more brilliantly than That night, relaxing on army cots We had seen many birds during the their eastern counterparts. Before beside the glowing fire, after a dinner afternoon drive from Morristown, and nightfall I'd noted visiting Juncos and of canned soup, beans and meat heated I had the idea that a bird lover could a covey of Gambel's quail feeding not in their tins, bread and jam, watercress well spend a season here. This green far away.

OCTOBER, 1953 19 guides as well as the regular hotel personnel are maintained during the December to April season for the con- venience of a peak season of 110 guests, nearly all of whom come an- nually from east of Chicago. "Nobody this side of St. Louis even knows we're here," he concluded. "Now, when you get through looking around, why not take a swim in one or both of our hot plunges. The upper one is 120 and the lower 90 degrees. I'll notify the attendants you'll be along." He reached for the phone, then smiled. "You'll be mighty hungry afterward. Lunch will be served at twelve." If this was Arizona hospitality, it was for me. Roaming up and down those punishing mountain sides in the sunshine, even though it was mid-Jan- uary, promised to be hot, dusty and tiring. Much as rock hunting seemed the definite order of the day for Dad and me, a clean relaxing swim after our exertions couldn't have been more inviting. But first, we went to meet Monty. After seeing our delight in his collection, he pressed his finest Once an Apache hideaway, the Bradshaws contain a number of rocks specimens upon us as gifts. "You'll get covered with ancient glyphs. Monty McWilliams led the author and his as much pleasure out of these crystals," father to this boulder. he said happily, "as I do out of giving them away, which I've done with most We were up with the dawn, and where, green and bristling, and on the of my best finds. There's always more after a breakfast of bacon and eggs, steep slopes rising to the peak lay a to be found, you know." flapjacks, canned fruit and coffee, we covering forest of branching saguaros. For a half hour Monty showed us stowed everything in the car. On both Lifting into the skies beyond rose around the resort, taking time to de- sides in the slanting rays of the rising range after range of mountains, gashed scribe various nearby gem stone areas sun, the mountains seemed to yield with numberless canyons all of which and pointing out the most likely places grudgingly with sharp steep canyons promised excellent prospecting. And for hunting across the creek, for visitors opening to the back country. We well they might. who have neither the time nor the elected to hunt the canyon on the east Lying between 34 and 3AVi degrees energy to ride the ridges and canyons side of the road nearest us. of north latitude, the Bradshaw Moun- on horseback. In particular he desig- Here, a dry cloud-burst streambed tains consist mainly of granite and di- nated the steep slopes immediately climbed steeply by huge stairsteps and orites of pre-Cambrian age intruded across the creek where a trail climbs dry waterfalls. In the gravels we found into Algonkian schists. On the adjoin- to the flag that waves from a cairn a scattering of quartzite and seam ing mesas are accumulations of vol- atop the peak. agate. A quarter mile of climbing canic agglomerate of supposed Tertiary showed the defile opening out onto "All over those slopes you'll find age, mantled in large part by extensive banded and fortified agates," he said, sunny slopes yellow-green with cholla, flows of basalt from 200 to 500 feet that treacherous cactus less than waist pointing to examples in his collection. thick. In the southwest, around Castle "And in the saddle between those two high which seemed forever waiting for Hot Springs the agglomerate is man- us to make the slightest misstep to peaks I've found some of my best tled by flows of andesite. It seems to crystals. It's a funny thing, too, I've dagger us with its needled spines like be from the agglomerate that the be- quills from an angry porcupine. found a lot of Indian camps, and wildering variety of gem stone ma- around every one of them have been Here all over the steep slope we terials derive. some fine clear crystals. Seems as if found a covering of quartzite chips, Returning, finally, to the hotel I the Apaches picked them up to 'make agate and chalcedony roses. Small went directly to manager Walter H. medicine' with, but I don't know." geodes dotted the ground, seeming to Rounsevel for permission to explore Following Monty's directions, we be thickest and largest under the big- around. I found him in his office and crossed the creek, climbing upward gest cholla plants where they were most willing to be helpful. He directed beyond a broad rolling clearing which hardest to reach. The slope and the us to see Monty McWilliams, saying had once been part of the world's most canyon walls below us were a hard, with a twinkle in his gray eyes: rugged golf course. There on the sun- yellowish clay deposit, and it was evi- "Monty's been collecting rocks for the swept slopes, among clawing cholla, dent that gem stuff continually weath- last two years — quite a collection, barrel cactus and tall saguaros, we ers out of the solidified muds. too." found dozens of different kinds of spe- We progressed slowly, fighting cholla He took time out to tell me about cimen material. About 10:30, with and circling left, always climbing. this 55-year-old spa, explaining in the sun uncomfortably warm on our Above us a sharp peak lifted ragged matter-of-fact terms how its 60 em- shoulders, we started back just in time basalt spines ending in sheer cliffs. ployes—including a masseuse, a doc- to see Monty hastening toward us in Succulent barrel cactus stood every- tor, a beauty parlor, wranglers and his shirt sleeves.

20 DESERT MAGAZINE "I thought I'd better show you the best Indian petroglyphs," he said, panting from the steep climb. "People often don't believe me when I tell them prehistoric Indians scrawled their carv- ings all over these slopes." Quickly, he led the way through heavy brush until we arrived at a huge boulder, its sunward face covered with incised de- signs. "Get into the picture, Monty," I suggested. "I'll make you some copies and next time anybody doubts your story, you won't have to climb all the way up here to prove it." He laughed, self conscious. "That's an idea." Still half reluctant, he stood beside the boulder pointing out a de- sign on the very surface he himself was the first to discover. "There are several more," he added, pointing down the slope, "but it's pretty brushy getting to them." Back at the springs, we hastened to the dressing rooms where friendly attendants supplied us with trunks. So hot is the non-mineralized water that a swim of 15 minutes was enough. At the hotel, Walter Rounsevel was true to his promise of lunch. After- wards, shaking hands with our new On the mountain slopes above this hot water pool at the Castle Hot Springs friends, we thanked both Rounsevel resort are many varieties of gem stones. and Monty for their hospitality. Leaving shortly by way of the rock- ribbed Jeep road south toward Marin- ette, I found it hard to realize that Swd Ifowt Seat fo ^e&ent... gem stones could exist in such variety and excellence in one compact area. October is the month when those who trek over the desert in quest But Monty's casual collection was of unusual photographs may resume their annual pilgrimages with proof of it. assurance that they will have ideal weather. If you have a picture It is my opinion that visitors, while that is exceptionally good—clear and sharp with good composition perhaps not wishing to indulge in the and lighting, you are invited to submit it in the Picture-of-the-Month white-tie-and-top-hat luxury of the re- Contest. Or, send in more than one if you like. Any desert subject is sort itself, will find this region a mar- acceptable. velous rock hunting center. As Monty McWilliams put it: "Every draw and Entries for the October contest must be in the Desert Magazine canyon needs exploring; I haven't be- office. Palm Desert, California, by October 20, and the winning prints gun to cover it myself, in my off hours. will appear in the December issue. Pictures which arrive too late for Sure, it's rough hiking, often hot and one contest are held over for the next month. First prize is $10; second sticky, but you just never know what prize $5.00. For non-winning pictures accepted for publication $3.00 will lie around the next bend. And one each will be paid. thing is sure. . . . There's something HERE ARE THE RULES worth picking up around almost every 1—Prints for monthly contests must be black and white. 5x7 or larger, printed bend in the Bradshaw Mountains." on glossy paper. • • • 2—Each photograph submitted should be fully labeled as to subject, time and place. Also technical data: camera, shutter speed, hour of day, etc. WATERED ABUNDANTLY. OCOTILLO CUTTINGS THRIVE 3—PRINTS WILL BE RETURNED WHEN RETURN POSTAGE IS ENCLOSED. 4—All entries must be in the Desert Magazine office by the 20th of the contest The ocotillo, with its numerous 10- month. to 20-foot long whiplike unbranched 5—Contests are open to both amateur and professional photographers. Desert stems, is one of the most conspicuous Magazine requires first publication rights only of prize winning pictures. 6—Time and place of photograph are immaterial, except that it must be from the plants of the desert when in flower. desert Southwest. Each branch, attached in fan-shaped 7—Judges will be selected from Desert's editorial staff, and awards will be made order to the base of a small trunk, immediately after the close of the contest each month. produces large dense clusters of scar- Address All Entries to Photo Editor let flowers each spring. These branches grow readily from cuttings if watered abundantly, and make decorative ad- Vewtt PALM DESERT. CALIFORNIA ditions to the home desert garden.

OCTOBER, 1953 21 This iackrabbit homesteader invested hours of hard work and part of his very heart and soul in his five-acre tract LIFE OH THE DESERT near Twentynine Palms, California—only to lose it when the Government decided it needed the area for a Marine By ROBERT N. CARLILE artillery range. THE last decade, thou- I must count myself among these given to him. But eventually he finds sands of citizens have trooped thousands. In June 1950, I learned a piece of land that causes his some- to U. S. Land Offices located from the pages of Desert Magazine what waning enthusiasm to soar. He throughout the west to take advantage that five-acre jackrabbit homesteads stands on the land and thinks to him- of the Small Tract Act of 1938 and located in the desert could be leased self, "This is it!" procure for themselves five-acre home- at very nominal cost through the Dis- The land he chooses usually con- steads in the desert. For many, the trict Land Office in Los Angeles. Upon tains some feature that makes it act has opened up a portion of man's inquiry, the Land Office sent me the unique. This distinguishing feature estate they have long shunned. Dis- information with which all homestead- may be a particularly fine stand of covering the desert, they find them- ers are familiar: length of lease, three Joshua trees, an interesting rock for- selves compelled to return whenever years with option to purchase if suit- mation, perhaps an inspiring view. In able improvements have been made; my case, it was a little mountain, a opportunity invites. The desert seems cost of lease, $3 per acre plus $10 filing to haunt them as no other face of na- miniature of those that made up the fee; purchase price, about $10 per nearby rugged Bullion Range. It was ture has ever done. As John Smeaton acre. I was amazed at the simplicity long and narrow with three little peaks Chase said in 1918: "It is as if (they) of these terms. They asked just what and two saddles. One of the saddles were bemused by the gaze of a sorcer- I could provide: a lot of hard work was broad and flat and commanded a ess, or had listened long to some with a minimum of financial outlay. large portion of the high Joshua desert. witching monotonous strain: . . ." My enthusiasm became enormous. "This would be an ideal spot for a From every station they come. Since The Land Office had provided a small cabin," I thought one day in March, the provisions of the act reduce finan- map showing available land near 1951, when my search finally came to cial state to a minimum of importance, Twentynine Palms in the Mojave Des- an end. even the person of average means can ert. The locating of a lot seemed so I had in Phil Hale an excellent have his winter home, which he usu- simple that I asked a friend, Phil Hale, friend. He was a student of surveying ally elects to build himself. Many are to drive out to Twentynine Palms the at a Southern California college, and the hours from his weekends and va- very next Sunday, fully expecting to it was largely due to his efforts that cations he spend breaking the silence choose a lot before the day was over. my lot was surveyed. In April, 1951, of the desert with sounds of hammer I could not have been more wrong, as he and I made a rough survey to de- and saw. When his cabin finally is any homesteader who has diligently termine which five-acre lot contained completed, he stands back and views searched for an appealing lot must the mountain. To my delight, we dis- it with a sense of satisfaction that only know. It was nine months later that covered that the mountain fitted neatly one who has created can experience. I finally found a piece of land that into the west half of a lot, leaving 2Vi He has invested something much more suited me. acres of flat land in the east half. I than a little money. Through his per- There are hundreds and hundreds leased this lot in May; and in June, sonal efforts, he has invested a little of acres that the prospective home- Phil, his two brothers, and I spent a of his heart and soul. steader wouldn't want if they all were wonderful weekend making an accurate survey. The author's camp on his homestead in the Mojave Desert near Twenty- Those two days on the desert I shall nine Palms, California. In the foreground is the "swelter shelter," a simple never forget. Sleeping under the stars, ramada that in summer was his only source of shade. cooking breakfast over an open fire, walking barefoot in the warm sand— here was a new world that too few of us in the rush of modern life find time to explore. The first night, just after the sun had dropped beneath the horizon, I climbed to the highest summit of the mountain. From my lofty perch, the view was grand! To the southeast, the white splash that is Mesquite Dry Lake still contrasted sharply with the darker surrounding land even though dusk had settled on that part of the desert. Beyond the lake, the first lights of evening in the little community of Twentynine Palms twinkled merrily. To the east, the great Bullion Moun- tains loomed dark and ghostly. The rays of the sinking sun still played upon their highest peaks, as day took a final stand before the silent, certain onset of night. To the west, a great plain, seemingly boundless and bare in the last light of day, stretched forth until it merged with the purple San

27. DESERT MAGAZINE Bernardino Mountains at the horizon. This turned out later to be com- How vast was the scene! How lack- pletely false, but at the time I could ing in bounds! How solitary, yet how do nothing but accept it as true. In welcome! despair, I turned the car around and Hard Kock Shorty Those two days were sufficient to drove away. cause me to fall under the desert's The land was being withdrawn from of spell. Many times I returned during private use by the Navy Department to that summer, but due to uncontrollable be used as an artillery range by the Death circumstances, not at all during early Marine Corps, I was informed by the fall. Land Office in Los Angeles. They Valley It was November before another op- were kind enough to give me an ad- portunity presented itself. I came this dress in Eleventh Naval District in time to see the effect of the weather San Diego in order that I might secure "Naw, I never done much on a road I had graded connecting my more specific information. huntin'," Hard Rock Shorty was lot with the nearest public road. Al- Thus began a long and tedious cor- explaining to the sportsmen who ways before, I had driven to the respondence with the Navy that lasted Twentynine Palms airport, passed had stopped at the Inferno store through an open gate in the airport for more than a year. It was not until for gas. The men said they were fence and then picked up the public December, 1952, that they were even sure they were going to include my lot on their way down to Badwater road just inside. But this day the gate for duck shooting, but they was closed, boarded up. Hardly be- within the artillery range, despite the lieving my eyes, I got out of the car fact that they had blocked every feasible wanted to know about deer and to examine the barrier. Soon I noticed means of access to it, Of course, they other game which might be found an ample gentleman in a custodian's could tell me nothing about what com- back in the mountains. uniform strolling toward me. pensation I would recieve. That was entirely out of their province. That "OP Pisgah Bill was the best "Want somethin'?" he asked in an would be handled by the Justice De- marksman ever lived in these unhurried fashion. partment. At the time of this writing, parts," Shorty went on, "an' he I told him I had a homestead up the April, 1953, the matter is still not con- kept our camp supplied with wild road, and the only way to get to it was cluded, although in all fairness I must meat all the time. Bill wuz so to drive through the gate that was now say that it appears that it will be before good he could kill six ducks with closed. too long. Considerable progress has one shot. Took a lot o' patience, "You may have had some land back been made since I am now correspond- waitin' fer 'em tu git lined up, there, but you ain't got any now," he ing with the Justice Department rather but Bill had more patience than drawled, and my legs began to feel a than the Navy. an undertaker. little weak. "Government's taken over "One winter we wuz camped all that part of the desert." There is little left to say. Many are the homesteaders who have suffered up in Fried Egg Canyon workin' "What for?" I managed to ask. much more than I. I have great sym- on them lead claims of ourn, an' "I don't know, fellow. They only Bill ran out o' shells fer that ol' pathy for the person who has spent 10-gauge shotgun he had. Had pay me to see that no one gets through hours and hours from his weekends here." plenty o' .32 rifle bullets — but and vacations building a desert cabin, no rifle. But Bill fixed that up "But this is the first I've heard of and then without a word of warning all right. He left that shotgun in the Government's doing this! I've put has it snatched away. He may be re- the pool at that alum spring over- hours and hours of work into that lot, paid for the money he put into it, but night an' that shrunk the barrel and invested in it what to me is a he can never be repaid for heart and right down to the right size fer substantial amount of money. Surely soul he invested. them rifle bullets. the Government wouldn't take it away without a word of warning!" "Huntin' wuz good that win- ANSWERS TO DESERT QUIZ ter an' we had rabbit or quail or Standing tall in the shadow of the duck fer supper every evenin'. Government, the custodian said un- Questions are on page 10 But finally them rifle bullets wuz sympathetically: "Fellow, this is a na- all used up—an' no chance tu tional emergency. In an emergency the 1—Two fangs in the upper jaw. git any more closer'n Barstow. Government takes what it wants, 2—The Colorado Desert of South- ern California. whenever it wants it. It'll take your 3—Canyon of the Dead. "Then Bill sed he wuz gonna land, or it'll even take you!" He 4—In dry arroyos. try an experiment. He moved pointed his finger at me for emphasis. 5—Shrub. up the canyon a half mile to I inquired what branch of the Gov- 6—Almost anywhere. that ammonia spring where the 7—The Lincoln County War. water freezes everything that gits ernment was taking the land. 8—The Colorado River. 9—Quartzsite, Arizona. into it. Bill'd wait on the bank "The Government, fellow, just the 10—New Mexico. holdin' the barrel o' that gun Government. That's all I know." 11—The Papagos. down in the water 'til a cotton- All my further queries were for 12—Zion National Park. tail come in sight. Then he'd 13—Father Font. nought. I asked him when the Gov- 14—Secretary of the Interior. pull the gun out, an' pour a little ernment planned to make compensa- 15—Notorious outlaw. water into the barrel. That wat- tion, and he misinformed me that there 16—Las Vegas, Nevada. er'd freeze the instant it got in would be none. 17—Cinnabar. the gun, an' when Bill'd pull the 18—Panamint Mountains. "The Government takes what it 19—Harry Oliver. trigger it wuz a dead rabbit — wants. If they don't want to pay you 20—Salt River. shot with an icicle." for it, they won't!"

OCTOBER, 1953 23 IT'S NEW IN DESERT SOUTHWEST SHOPPING GUIDE mm m The Southwest Shopping Guide

Now through this new section you will be able to read about, see, and solve your shopping needs right in your living room.

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Palm Desert, California

rruiu'iHEOF \0£\ "It's New"—THE TOY-AWAY ACCURATE TOPO. MAPS Completely solves the year 'round toy stor- If it's maps you want—we've got them. For age problem for Mother. $9.95 prepaid. years we have been supplying all types of Powerfully built of metal in eye appealing maps. We carry all topographic quadrangle colors—red with yellow interior. Rolls with maps in California and other western states ease over carpeting or composition floors on and Alaska. Have maps of Barstow area ball bearing swivel casters. Measures 16" x (see cut) and Calico, a must for rockhounds, 15" x 18" and holds over 100 lbs. Gray rub- only 50c. Geologic maps 50c to $2.50, ber bumpers to protect furniture and walls. aero, charts 50c, coast & geodetic charts Children have fun playing with them too. $1.25. McAllister's Lost Mines of Southwest- For your nearest dealer, write KALASTEEL ern States—map, $1.75. 4000 dif. maps to 7.50 choose from. WESTWIDE Maps Co., 1UV2 KEEPING BA6..2.M PRODUCTS CO., 338 Parsons St., Kala- A1RMATTKESS 2.0G mazoo, Mich. W. 3rd St., L. A. 13, Cal. Michigan 5339. Z BURN.STOVfc... LOO SINGLE mumiE LANTERN 1.50 ice eon 1.00 COT IM

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24 DESERT MAGAZINE SOUTHWEST SHOPPIHG GUIDE FURNACE CREEK INN AMERICAN PtAN FURNACE CREEK RANCH '"•• EUROPEAN PtAN A

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OCTOBER, 1953 25 even cut with pliers, allowing the cattle posed to have been a raiding party of to escape onto the highway. He ad- Villa's band, the outlaws later were mitted that other people besides rock- believed to have been a disgruntled hounds frequent the area, namely group of cadelilla poachers with whose fishermen. activities the border outpost interfered. Since this land is government prop- Sgt. Joseph Alberta and I arrived just James White's Voyage . • . erty, it very easily could be closed off after the raid with two trucks, a Berkeley, California to all visitors, and a good collecting month's supply of food and ammuni- Desert: area would become out-of-bounds for tion and a relief team of ten men. But The letter of Roy Lappin in your rockhounds. we were too late. The place was a August issue regarding Robert Brew- I personally don't think we rock- shambles. Only the sergeant and two ster Stanton's visit to James White, and hounds are to blame—but "a word to others were alive. the editorial response to it, seem to the wise" may protect us all. There has evidently been some justify some added comment. MARNO THOMPSON change in place names. The creek Mr. Lappin might have told of Wil- • • • near Boquillas we knew as Tarronea liam Hiram Edwards, late of Compton, Desert Miracle . . . (Torrent), and the weed from which California, and one of Stanton's crew, Metamora, Illinois wax is extracted was candelaria. Butch- who visited Lappin in November of Desert: erknife Mountain was halfway between 1907 to get him to sign the affidavit Two poems in the August issue— Alpine and Terlingua. Elephant Rock as to the correctness of the typed inter- "Desert Miracle" on the poetry page was on the road from Marfa to Rim view. and "Indigo Bush," quoted in Randall Rock over which the 13 th pack train It appears that Lappin was next door Henderson's editorial, aptly expressed used to carry supplies to the outpost neighbor to White, the man who is my sentiments when, one recent eve- at San Rosalia. reputed to have ridden through the ning, our potted night blooming cereus I am somewhat surprised that one Grand Canyon on a raft in 1867. spread its gorgeous blossoms. of the most interesting places in Big Mr. Lappin has never received a We have a number of desert plants Bend has not been included in the copy of Stanton's Historical Facts and which we store in the basement during park. We knew it as Adobe Walls Records because it was never pub- the winters. Besides the cereus, there Canyon. It is on the old road to lished. In addition to the Bell version are several yuccas and two century Presidio. You drop down off the rim- of the White story which Desert cited, plants over 50 years old. rock into the canyon, which has a Stanton wrote about it in the magazine, When the yuccas are in blossom, we completely different vegetation than is Trail. find the small blue moth common to found on the uplands. To the right, In 1932, there appeared the book them. Since in our part of the country high upon the wall, is a red sandstone Colorado River Controversies with these desert plants are few and far cone. On the level ground at its base Stanton's name appearing as author. between, we wonder how these blue are dome-shaped piles of various col- James Chalfant was the editor, and moths find them, and how they live ored sands, the top grains in constant Julius F. Stone financed the publica- when our yucca blooms are gone. movement. tion. The book deals with the White From these cactus plants I have JAMES B. JUDGE story and with the Separation Affair learned not to despise the uglier ob- • • • of the 1869 Powell Colorado River jects of Nature. Our night-blooming Confusing Quartet . . . trip. cereus revealed again how much beauty Santa Fe, New Mexico Stanton's manuscript is still seeking they can yield. Desert: a publisher, but the general historical MRS. S. M. SNYDER The September issue of Desert Mag- and geological portions have been neg- • • • azine is at hand, and I'm delighted to lected in recent years. As with the Where Bandits Rode . . . see my "Confusing Quartet" story on White story, that of Stanton's cruise Riverside, California page 13. through the Grand Canyon would Desert: However, I was shocked to read provide a modern day thriller for the I enjoyed reading Randall Hender- Desert's caption under the Norton Al- movies. son's story, "Boat Ride on the Big len sketch on page 16. It completely If Mr. Lappin wants to find Stan- Bend," in the July issue of Desert. In contradicts facts stated quite clearly in ton's book, it can be located through 1915,1 took the first heavy army trans- the story. second-hand book stores or in any portation to that "last frontier," as it Here are the facts: Sotol is a lily well-stocked library. He will find much was then known, following the evacu- but not a yucca—it is a Dasylirion; of his stenographic work quoted. ation of Galveston after the hurricane Nolina is a lily but not a yucca—it is OTIS MARSTON of that year. a Nolina; Agave is not even a lily—it • • • I was first based at Alpine, attached is an Amaryllis. Joshua is not a broad- Rockhound Etiquette . . . to "A" Troop, 13th Cavalry. I drove leaf yucca, it is a narrow-leaf yucca. King City, California a truck from there to Terlingua, about Yucca schidigera is the broad-leaf Desert: one hundred miles south, over roads yucca of the Mojave Desert which While on a recent visit to Jade Cove, that followed cattle paths, dry creek grows in close company with the California, I learned that rockhounds beds and in places clung precariously Joshua. •are not popular with many landowners to the mountain sides. How in the world so much misstate- and property leasers in the area. Later, when attached to "A" Troop, ment could have been crowded into The foreman of one cattle company 14th Cavalry, I narrowly missed the that one caption I cannot understand. which is leasing the Hunter Liggett massacre at Glen Springs, an outpost NATT N. DODGE Reservation (military) in Monterey between Boquillas and Hot Springs. A The "Confusing Quartet" had County, was quite upset by the way force of Mexicans, hiding in the can- Desert's caption writer completely the fences enclosing the fields were delilla stacks, attacked at night, setting befuddled. Apologies to Author being treated by trespassers. He fire to the thatched roof of the adobe Dodge and to other Desert readers blamed the rockhounds. In some places shack, driving the Americans out and who caught the short caption's many the fences had been pulled down or shooting most of them. At first sup- mistakes.—R.H.

26 DESERT MAGAZINE people of Arizona must make final de- cision on the repeal by either support- Here and There on the ing present state laws banning liquor on the reservation or by repealing such ARIZONA from the plan (the $23 million long- laws. According to sponsors of the federal bill, the local option clause was Wetbacks Few in Arizona . . . range program for reservation rehabili- tation approved by Congress)," Fran- inserted at the request of tribes, notably TUCSON — There is no wetback cisco said, "but we are going to make the Hopi in Arizona, which have tra- problem in Arizona. That is the opin- every effort to follow an economy pro- ditionally opposed the use of alcoholic ion of C. P. Pettingill, assistant chief beverages by their people.—Phoenix inspector for the U. S. Border Patrol gram, making commitments only as in Tucson. Wetbacks don't want to appropriations are available." The Gazette. come to Arizona, he said, because it new chairman, who served as vice- isn't practical. All the state's main chairman and manager of the tribal farm crops are too far from the border, loan board under Segundo, was elected COUNTY MAPS meaning a trip of about 200 miles be- to fill the unexpired term of his prede- Many New Issues ; cessor. He will face election to the Utmost details—for offices, realtors, Lum- for the alien can find work. ' And we bermen, sportsmen, Miners, etc. With Twn- have the border so well patrolled they $2400-a-year post for a full year in shps, rng, Sec. Mines, all roads, trails, strms. know they can't escape us," Pettingill January.—Phoenix Gazette. K.It., Elevations, Ntl. Frsts. etc. Alameda 20x30 $1.00 added. He did, however, predict an • • • Alpine 17x23 1.00 increase in the Arizona problem if the Amador 20x30 1.00 Navajo Horses Must Go . . . Butte 29x33 1.00 tide of aliens flowing into California is WINDOW ROCK—The horse, once Calaveras 21x31 1.00 Colusa 24x25 1.00 stemmed to any extent.—Yuma Daily a sacred economic standard of the In- Contra Costa 19x28 1.00 Sun. __Del Norte 24x25 1.00 dian, must go from reservation lands, Eldorado 24x39 1.00 the Navajo Tribal Council has decided. Fresno 28x50 2.50 Fresno 42x75 5.00 Fort Huachuca Plan . . . Once the number of horses a tribes- Glenn 18x33 1.00 Humboldt 20x36 1.00 BENSON — The Fort Huachuca man possessed indicated his prosperity. . Humboldt 30x56 2.50 military reservation would be divided But the usefulness of the horse largely Imperial 31x51 2.00 Inyo, East and West Half, ea. 7.50 among the state and sheep growers disappeared with the advent of the Kern 38x78 5.00 Kern 26x58 2.50 under a proposal being considered as machine age on the reservation. Their .Kings 27x28 1.00 an answer to the "what-to-do-with- chores taken over by cars, truck and Lake 24x36 1.00 Lassen 26x36 1.00 Huachuca?" problem. The state would tractors, the horses were turned out on Lassen 38x55 3.00 get 23,000 acres for wildlife research .Los Angeles 42x44 3.00 the range, where they now roam freely Los Angeles 33x35 1.00 and study areas and for its buffalo and multiply unhindered. They tramp Madera 23x50 1,50 .Marin 23x24 1.00 herd. Eight thousand acres would be grass needed for sheep and drink scarce Marlposa 29x33 1.00 leased for sheep grazing. Four thou- Mendocino 36x48 2.50 water needed for both sheep and hu- Merced 34x36 1.00 sand acres would be left fallow for mans. The Tribal Council has allo- Modoc 34x41 1.50 Modoc 28x24 1.00 three years, then contour plowed and cated $25,000 a year to rid the range .Mono 28x67 3.00 seeded. The proposal has been ap- Monterey 42x52 3.00 of about 15,000 free-roaming horses. Napa 20x28 1.00 proved by U. S. Army Engineers and A maximum of $10 a head will be Nevada 22x38 1.00 Orange 23x24 1.00 Sixth Army Headquarters.—Phoenix paid for horses brought in, and the , .Placer 26x46 1.50 Gazette. Placer 30x17 1.00 council hopes to sell them at a profit. Plumas 33x40 1.50 .Plumas 27x22 1.00 Allan G. Harper, area director for the Riverside 27x98 5.00 Find Fossilized Elephant . . . Indian Bureau, said the tribe took the Riverside 18x66 2.50 Sacramento 26x32 1.00 BENSON—A link with the past that action to enhance conservation meas- San Benlto 19x38 1.00 may date back several millions of years ian Bernardino, No. >/a or So. Vi 7.50 ures.—Phoenix Gazette. an Bernardino—N.W. 'A 3.75 was unearthed recently in the Benson ian Bernardino—S.W. 'A 3.75 • • • San Bernardino—N.E. 'A 3.75 area. The find, which consisted of the San Bernardino—S.E. Vt 3.75 lower jaw bone and two ribs of a pre- Indian Liquor Needs State Okay . . . San Diego 38x49 2.50 PHOENIX — The Arizona State San Diego 26x34 1.00 historic elephant, was made by Charles .San Francisco 36x40 1.00 Stevenson, 18, while out in the hills constitution will have to be ammended San Joaquin 22x34 1.00 San Luis Obispo 35x56 3.00 hunting rabbits. E. B. Sayles, curator if Indians in the state are to have the San Luis Obispo 38x24 1.00 San Mateo 20x32 1.00 of Arizona State Museum, Tucson, right to buy liquor. A new law wiping Santa Barbara 36x38 1.50 encased the fossil in plaster and re- Santa Barbara 33x23 1.00 out all federal prohibitions on the sale Santa Clara 25x33 1.00 moved it to the museum for further of liquor to Indians was recently signed .Santa Cruz 19x24 1.00 Shasta 34x49 3.00 study. He said the elephant is neither by President Eisenhower. But the Shasta 33x24 1.00 mastodon nor mammoth but could be . Sierra 16x31 1.00 Siskiyou 39x62 4.00 an entirely new species which might Siskiyou 26x43 2.00 , .Siskiyou 20x32 1.00 bridge the gap between the two. — Solano 22x25 1.00 Tombstone Epitaph. Sonoma 29x86 1.00 Stanislaus 34x36 1.00 gutter 21x24 1.00 Tehama 26x48 2.00 Promises Papago Economies . . . Tehama 17x32 1.00 Trinity ,.33x52 3.00 SELLS — Enos Francisco, elected . .Trinity 23x34 1.00 leader of Arizona's more than 4000 .Tulare 38x49 2.00 .Tuolumne 31x43 1.50 Papago Indians, has announced a pol- Ventura 27x34 1.00 icy of financial retrenchment. Fran- Yolo 26x28 1.00 Yuba 22x29 1.00 cisco was named chairman of the Most maps are drawn to scale of Vi inch to Papago Tribal Council, succeeding the mile. Maps obtainable flat or folded. Thomas Segundo who resigned to con- WORLD'S MINERALS tinue law studies at the University of HJOHN HARDER- Chicago. "We are not going away 6399 WILSHIRE BLVD., LOS ANGELES 48, CAL. 2417 San Pablo AYC., Oakland 12, Calif.

OCTOBER, 1953 27 GHOST TOWN ITEMS: Sun-colored glass, amethyst to royal purple; ghost railroads material, tickets; limited odd items from camps of the '60s. Write your interest— THE DESERT TRRDMG POST Box 64-D, Smith, Nevada. Classified Advertising in This Section Costs 10c a Word, $1.50 Minimum Per Issue DESERT TEA. One pound one dollar postpaid. Greasewood Greenhouses. Len- INDIAN GOODS LANDS —LANDS —20-160 acres fertile, wood, Barstow, California. virgin land in San Bernardino County. SCENIC KODACHROME SLIDES: South- INDIAN ANTIQUES—The nation's largest Ideal for ranch, farm retreat. Some low exclusive Indian handicraft stock. If it western Desert country, Indians, National as $10.00 per acre. Easy terms. Write Parks, Mexico. Catalogue 10c. Jack is not Indian handmade I do not handle today. Pon & Co., Box 546, Azusa, Calif. it. War Bonnets, buckskin beaded gar- Breed, RFD-4, Georgetown, Mass. ments, Navajo pawn, baskets, Kachinas, hundreds of items too numerous to men- FOR SALE: Outstanding view site for SILVERY DESERT HOLLY PLANTS: tion. Pat Read, Indian Trader, Lawrence, future home. Approx. 2 acres. 25 min- One dollar each postpaid. Greasewood Kansas. utes drive from San Diego. Prevailing Greenhouses, Lenwood, Barstow, Calif. ocean breeze. 900 foot elevation. Planted BLACK OBSIDIAN ARROWHEADS $1. in shade and fruit trees. Architects house LIGHTNING ADDING MACHINE: Desk Spearhead $3. Knife $5. Found in Ore- plans included. Total $8,500.00. Inquire model portable, automatic clearance, di- gon fifty years ago. Free list of Indian Archibald, 2115 Fort Stockton Dr., San rect subtraction, capacity up to 99,999.99. artifacts and handicraft from Pacific Diego., California. Easy to operate, fast, efficient. Full year Northwest. Moise Penning, Klamath, guarantee. Full price, $14.95, prepaid, California. LUCERNE VALLEY — Ideal Home and cash or C.O.D. Order from California income. Near Apple Valley, 3 attractive Typewriter Exchange, 1260 West Second WE SEARCH unceasingly for old and rare modern stucco cottages. White insulated St., Los Angeles 26, California. Indian Artifacts, but seldom accumulate roofs. First class construction. Three a large assortment. Collectors seem as years old. Lot 150 x 200 fully fenced. FIND YOUR OWN beautiful Gold nug- eager to possess them as their original Good water, electric pump. Well land- gets! It's fun! Beginners' illustrated in- owners. To those who like real Indian scaped. Fruit, shade tree, shrubs. Each struction book! $1.00. Gold pan, $2.00. things, a hearty welcome. You too may 1 bedroom cottage beautifully furnished. Where to go? Gold placer maps. South- find here something you have long de- Air conditioned, car port, patio, storage ern California, Nevada, Arizona, $1.00 sired. We are continually increasing our room, large closets. Five view. Good each state. All three maps $2.00. Desert stock with the finest Navajo rugs, In- rental income. Splendid valley location. Jim, Box 604, Stockton, California. dian baskets, and hand-made jewelry. Wonderful healthful climate. $25,000. Vz Daniels Trading Post, 401 W. Foothill down payment. Ellis Gardens, Box 574, GOLD PROSPECTING CATALOG—List- Blvd., Fontana, California. Lucerne Valley, California. ing, placer and lode maps, steel gold pans, mining and mineral books, books on lost 6 PERFECT ANCIENT FLINT arrowheads mines, pocket magnifying glasses, min- $2.00. Fine grooved stone tomahawk BUSINESS OPPORTUNITY eral collection sets, blueprints of dry $3.00. Grooved granite war club $2.00. LOCATION WANTED for small display washers and wet washers you can build Perfect peace pipe $5.00. 6 fine bird ar- and sales space by silversmith and hand- yourself. Catalog and Gold Panning Les- rows $2.00. 2 flint knives $1.00, 6" to 7". craft artisan. Prefer high class motel or son — Free. Old Prospector, Box 729, Perfect spearhead $7.00. All offers resort with parking space etc. for trailer Desk 5, Lodi, California. $20.00. List Free. Lear's, Glenwood, house. Semi-retired widower. Address Arkansas. Box B. Desert Magazine. 2 BEDROOM and Sun Room House: 1110 square feet, fireplace, 1-1/3 acre, fruit WE BUY, SELL OR TRADE Indian bas- trees, 4200 elevation overlooking the great kets. Have over 1000 in stock. Write ARTISTS Mojave desert. 88 miles to Los Angeles, your wants to David L. Young, 3612 33 to San Bernardino, 26 to Victorville, South Sixth Avenue, Tucson, Arizona. ARTISTS, ARTISANS and Hobbyists. Oceans of space for Muralettes and sen- $500 down. Write Maude A. Grettenberg, sational art profits. Fascination fad. No Star Route 76426, San Bernardino, Calif. BOOKS — MAGAZINES competition. Instruction folio $2. Bruns, GEMS AND MINERALS, collecting, gem- Box 630, Marvista 24, Calif. AUTHENTIC INDIAN SONGS and chants cutting. Illustrated magazine tells how, on top quality phonograph records. Re- where to collect and buy, many dealer corded by well known tribal singers — advertisements. Completely covers the MISCELLANEOUS Natay, Pop Chalee, Chief Spotted Back hobby. The rockhound's own magazine Hamilton, H. Lomawaima, J. Gachupin for only $3.00 a year (12 full issues) or SEND FOR: List of dried floral materials and others. For catalogue write Canyon write for brochure and booklist. Mineral for arrangements, home decorating. Mel Records, 834 North 7th Avenue, Phoenix, Notes and News, Box 716B, Palmdale, Capper, Box 70, Palm Springs, California. Arizona. California. PINKING SHEARS—Only $1.95 postpaid. NAVAJO RUG REPAIRING — Do you BOOKS FOUND—Any title! Free world- Chromium plated, precision made. Man- have a damaged Navajo rug? We can wide book search service. Any book, ufacturer's Christmas overstock. Guaran- restore its value by re-weaving it. Send new or old. Western Americana a spe- teed $7.95 value or money refunded. your rug by Parcel Post or Express. Ari- cialty. Lowest price. Send wants today! Order by mail. Lincoln Surplus Sales, zona Weavers, 2321 North 7th Street, International Bookfinders, Box 3003-D, 549 Main St., Evanston 21, Illinois. Phoenix, Arizona. Beverly Hills, California. WESTERN MUSEUM Collection: Thou- PAN GOLD: 75 spots in 25 California REAL ESTATE sands of items reflecting life in the past. counties for placer gold. Township, range, Old music machines, buggies, carriages, elevation, geological formation. Possible HOUSE OF ROY—Headquarters for Des- hearses, guns, documents, papers, pictures. health, happiness, hideaway, hunt, hike, ert property! Listings available in 3rd Very large and complete collection, suit- fish, camp. Pan and tweezer pick yellow dimensional color slides. All inquiries able attraction for any suitable business. golden nuggets. $1.00, Box 42132 Los promptly answered without obligation. If you have building 25x100 for display Angeles, California. Also panning pans P. O. Box 33, Palm Desert, California. would bring in a nice steady income from $2.25, $2.75. Nugget tweezer $1.00. Lois Elder'Roy, broker. admissions. Could be powerful aid to Leather dust poke $1.00. APPROXIMATELY 320 ACRES, Southern any natural attraction or for curio busi- California with mile frontage. Junction ness. $15,000. Will steadily increase in NEW PERSONAL COOLING UNIT two highways and road. New develop- value as time passes. Frank Gordon, 3 miles south of Red Bluff, California. Be personally "Air-Conditioned." Provides ment, sheltered valley, utilities, $16,000. 15 degrees cooler forehead comfort under Old Mexico, near resort, border and hottest temperatures. Perspiration absorb- coast, ranch with buildings. 15,000 STAMP COLLECTORS' BARGAIN — 19 ing cellulose sweatbands are like an Es- grapes in. Near highways, railroad. See beautiful triangle postage stamps (mostly kimo's Kiss upon your brow. Three for $2. and check both. A. L. Murphy, Box bi-colors). 25c to approval applicants. Bruns Agency, Box 630. Marvista 24, Calif. 1352, Trona, California. Miller, Box 600-D, Palo Alto. California.

28 DESERT MAGAZINE CALIFORNIA Demolition Teams at Work . . . near the find offered the scientist the hope that other recognizable parts may Plan Desert Promotion . . . NEEDLES — An Army Engineer CALEXICO—Groundwork for an Range Clearance Detachment has been yet be found.—Inyo Independent. intensive promotion campaign to focus located at Needles for the purpose of NEVADA attention on Southern California's des- destroying any unexploded shells, ert as a desirable place to live, work bombs or land mines which may have Hawks Prefer Reptiles . . . and play has been laid by the Cali- been left on the desert during maneuv- BOULDER CITY — According to fornia State Chamber of Commerce. ers in the early years of World War II. Harry Craft, three western red-tailed Among projects planned in the pro- Anyone knowing the location of any hawks which he has raised in his back gram are a contest similar to the suc- unexploded missile is requested to re- yard since they were brought to him cessful desert slogan contest conducted port it to Capt. Gilbert H. Gulley, Gen- as fluffy chicks by two boys who had by the chamber last year, and a reprint- eral Delivery, Needles.—Desert Star. found them in Charleston Mountains, ing of the booklet Southern California • • • would rather eat reptiles—lizards and snakes — than rodents and squirrels. Deserts.—Calexico Chronicle. May Return to Public Domain . . . • • • It has been quite a chore to find food Canal Cost Cut $500,000 . . . INDIO—Coachella Valley County for them, Craft said, since they want EL CENTRO — Reconciliation of Water District indicated it would voice only raw meat that has been recently differences and agreements reached at no objection to the Bureau of Recla- killed. Asked if the hawks had be- a series of conferences held during the mation's proposal to return to the pub- come tame, he expressed the opinion past two years between representatives lic domain 25,000 acres of desert land. that such birds never could be tamed. of the Imperial Irrigation District and The land is located above the Salton "Two of them already have reached government officials have effected sav- Sea, adjoining the All-American Canal maturity and have gone out foraging ings of one-half million dollars of All- as it enters and prior to its entry into for themselves," he said," and the third American Canal costs. The dispute Improvement District No. 1. If re- one soon will be ready to leave." — over additional charges amounting as turned, the land would be administered Las Vegas Journal-Review high as $750,000 is expected to be by the Bureau of Public Lands and • • • resolved in the near future. Original possibly opened to homesteading. — Emergency Aid for Stockmen . . . contract for the All-American Canal, Date Palm. CARSON CITY — Assurance that including the Coachella branch, called • • • federal loans will be available for loan for expenditures of not more than $38,- Clams Clog Canal Channels . . . to stockmen in drouth-stricken areas 000,000 of which $24,000,000 has of the state were given in a statement been charged to the Imperial Irriga- COACHELLA—"We get rid of the moss and now we have clams," moaned by Director Robert Farrington of the tion District. Payment was to be from agricultural credit service to the gov- net revenues over a period of 40 years. directors of the Coachella Valley Water District when clams the size of quart- ernor's office here.—Humboldt Star. No payments will be made, however, • • • until a final agreement is reached on ers began showing up in Coachella Lake Mead Low This Year . . . what is properly chargeable to con- Valley irrigation facilities. The clams struction costs. According to Evan T. may be immigrants from England, a BOULDER CITY—Excepting 1946, Hewes, district president, this is the California Fish and Game Department this year's maximum level of Lake first time since 1949 that an agreement study revealed. Their type was first Mead was the lowest recorded since on differences has been worked out, found in the Columbia River in Ore- the lake filled up overflowing into the and he is confident of the success of gon whence they had migrated from spillways in 1941. The maximum level future conferences.—Imperial Valley England. Then the claims transferred Weekly. to the Sacramento River where they have become so plentiful that they have • • • built up bars in the water. It is not Pinon Incense... Studies Wetback Problem . . . known whether they are edible, and WASHINGTON —A minimum of Bring the delightful fragrance how they came to the Coachella Valley of the Pinyon Forest into your 100,000 wetbacks are living in Cali- remains a mystery.—Coachella Valley fornia illegally. That is the estimate home or office. The burner is a Sun. miniature model of the outdoor of Atty. Gen. Herbert Brownell, Jr., • • • after a study of the wetback problem. baking ovens used by prehis- He added that the border patrol is Mastodons in Death Valley . . . toric Indians, and still in use in New Mexico pueblos. When doing a splendid job with the man- DEATH VALLEY—First discovery the little cones of genuine pin- power and money available but said of the tusk of a mastodon in Death yon pine are burned in this tiny both are completely inadequate. Im- Valley has been reported by Dr. oven the aroma is a breath of migration officials have said they could Thomas Clements, head of the geology the outdoor Southwest. check the illegal entry of Mexican department at the University of South- workers into the United States by add- ern California. The curved tusk, 39 Kills kitchen and bathroom ing 2000 men to Southwest border inches long, eight inches in diameter odors and removes the smell of patrols, or about tripling the present at one end and four inches at the stale tobacco. Pueblo Indians 1,089-man force. There have been other, was found protruding out of burn pinyon for nasal and suggestions of using troops to patrol the sand and rocks of the bank of a bronchial ailments. the border, but immigration officials recent stream channel. The channel Burner and 15 cones ..$1.50 hope such drastic measures will not be led from the dry bed of what once Burner and 54 cones.... 2.70 necessary. The Mexican government was a large lake in the northern part Extra cones, 36 for 1.25 has agreed to cooperate in the cam- of Death Valley in the Pleistocene era paign to stop the wetback invasion 10,000 to 15,000 years ago. The tusk Postpaid to You which, according to Brownell, "has crumbled to pieces, despite precautions created a law enforcement problem of Clements took to remove it; carefully. DESERT CRAFTS SHOP the first magnitude" in California. — However, the presence of badly weath- Palm Desert, California Los Angeles Times. ered bones in the remaining lake beds

OCTOBER, 1953 29 was reached July 13 with a high of From Nevada's Ancient Past . . . New Mexico Voters to Decide . . . 1166.47 feet. The maximum for 1946 CARSON CITY—Scientists at the SANTA FE—New Mexican voters was 1164.3, only three feet lower. Nevada State Museum are studying in the past have been hesitant to legal- "However, there is still plenty of water seven mummies — believed to have ize liquor sales for Indians, but they in the lake to meet irrigation require- lived between 2000 and 10,000 years soon will have another opportunity to ments and generate firm energy allot- ago—unearthed in recent excavations pass upon the problem. Before its ad- ments," assured officials of the Office in caves along the shores of prehistoric journment in early August, the U. S. of River Control. The Lake contains Lake Lahontan. Initial discovery of Senate opened the way by passing a approximately 19,000,000 acre-feet of the caves was credited to Mr. and Mrs. bill eliminating federal prohibition on water, enough to supply downstream G. C. Rollins of Lovelock, and J. W. sale of liquor to Indians. For many irrigation requirements for more than Calhoun, director of the Santa Barbara, years bootlegging on the reservations three years. — Las Vegas Review- California, Museum of Natural His- has posed a serious enforcement prob- Journal. tory, conducted the excavations. Cal- lem to state law officers. The prohibi- • • • houn said the presence of bones from tion grew out of a 19th century law No Sagehens for Hunters . . . extinct horses and camels in the caves including "all the Indian country."— CALIENTE—Due to a poor hatch convinced scientists that the discovery El Crepesculo. and a reduction in birds, Nevada will is by far the oldest yet made in Nevada. not have a sagehen season this year, He said mummies of both children and adults have been uncovered. They the State Fish and Game Commission THE mflGflZiriE decided after reviewing findings of an were buried beneath flat baskets in the annual survey by field crews. It was cave floors. The prehistoric people apparent from the survey report, the are believed to have migrated across CLOSE-UPS commission said, that the hatch was the Bering Strait as the glaciers that very spotty with only about one chick had covered the area began to recede. recorded per adult sagehen on an over- —Las Vegas Review-Journal. Robert N. Carlile, Life-on-the-Des- all basis. Very few areas in the state • • • ert contest winner whose homesteading experience is told in this issue of Des- showed an increase at all, and a 33 Fish, Wildlife Program Mapped . . . percent drop was recorded in the total ert Magazine, was brought up in the WASHINGTON—Nevada will re- desert's back yard. His family lived in sagehen population as compared with ceive $474,000 for refuge management, 1952 survey findings.—Caliente Her- the little community of Lakeside, in fish and wildlife restoration projects, the back country of San Diego County, ald. predatory animal control and game • • • California, and it was just a hop skip law enforcement, if the U.S. Fish and and jump over the mountains to Bor- Old Jail May Serve Again . . . Wildlife Service's 1954 budget is ap- rego Valley. The Carliles frequently RHYOLITE — Deputy Sheriff Bob proved. Considerable work is planned packed a picnic basket and spent the Revert of Beatty is considering put- at the Sheldon National Antelope Ref- day in this lovely desert retreat. uge in northern Washoe and Humboldt ting the historic Rhyolite jail back in "These occasional one-day desert service until the county rebuilds the counties, the Desert Game Range and the Overton Waterfowl management excursions eventually failed to satisfy Beatty jail, destroyed by fire in June. my desire for the sandy wastes," Car- Revert now is forced to take prisoners area in Clark County, the Ruby Lake Wildlife Refuge in Elko County and lile writes. "In the summer of 1950 to Tonopah, a long and expensive trip. a series of articles by Catherine Venn The Rhyolite jail is a solidly con- the Stillwater Refuge in Churchill County. A survey of fish resources began in Desert Magazine. Miss Venn structed concrete structure with huge had taken advantage of the Small Tract iron doors. "All it needs is a good and harvests in Lake Mead and Lake Mojave and a trout inventory of all Act of 1938 and had forsaken the lock and it should be ready to do busi- noise and smog of Los Angeles for a ness," Revert observed.—Beatty Bul- Nevada streams also are planned. — Caliente Herald. lonely five-acre tract in the desert. The letin. stories inspired me to write to the Land • • • Office in Los Angeles requesting in- formation concerning the act." Keep Your Back NEW MEXICO Indian Policy Presented . . . Carlile's story tells of the jackrabbit Copies of Desert tract he finally located on the Mojave GALLUP—Indians of the United near Twentynine Palms, California. for Quick Reference States will be granted full independence from federal controls as soon as tribal Now living in Menlo Park, Califor- Attractive loose-leaf binders governments can demonstrate their nia, while he completes work on his in Spanish grain leather, gold- "economic maturity." And the federal Ph.D. degree in electrical engineering embossed, are available for government will do all in its power to at Stanford University, Carlile and his those Desert readers who want speed the process through education wife find time for only infrequent visits to keep their back copies for the and legislative grants of increased local to the desert. Carlile, 24, did under- maps and travel information responsibility. These are the keystones graduate work at Pomona College and they contain. Each binder holds of the Eisenhower administration's In- was awarded his master's degree from 12 issues. Easy to insert, and dian affairs policy, as outlined at a Stanford. they open flat. panel discussion in Gallup by Orme "My experience in the Twentynine Mailed postpaid for Lewis, assistant secretary of interior. Palms area has not discouraged me $2.00 Lewis said the goal of the new GOP from wanting to homestead again," he administration is to give Indians ex- writes. "Someday we will find another actly the same status as other Ameri- THE desirable lot, and then the ironwood can citizens, with freedom to manage and cholla will have to move over, for their own affairs, make their own de- another cabin will be added to the PALM DESERT. CALIFORNIA cisions and share the same responsi- increasing number of homesteads being bilities.—Phoenix Gazette. built in the desert country."

30 DESERT MAGAZINE Sheep Lab Control Transferred . . . New Deer Hunt Regulations . . . campaign and said this work, plus the FORT WINGATE — The South- SALT LAKE CITY — Utah deer efforts of the efficient forest fire fighting western Range and Sheep Breeding hunters are advised to study carefully organizations in the state, prevented Laboratory at Fort Wingate has been the general rules and regulations for many additional fires.—Kane County taken out of the hands of the Indian this year's seasons and the special pro- Standard. Bureau and in the future will be con- visions for the particular area they • • • trolled by the Department of Agricul- intend hunting. These will be found Souvenir Postcards Rescued . . . ture's Bureau of Animal Industry. Ac- in the 1953 deer proclamation avail- SALT LAKE CITY—To help sou- cording to Secretary of the Interior able from all license vendors and de- venir cards to their destinations—and McKay, one of the principal reasons partment offices in Salt Lake City. insure added publicity for the Salt Lake for the transfer was "the growing rec- Greater variation in types of hunts and area—the Salt Lake City Chamber of ognition of the results achieved by the methods of hunting is the result of Commerce paid the postage due on laboratory and the realization that its broader management powers given hundreds of souvenir postal cards with work is beneficial not merely to Nava- Utah's Board of Big Game Control by miniature bags of salt or copper ore jos but to the whole sheep industry of the 1953 legislature. Under this new attached. The cards had been delayed the Southwest." The laboratory was authority, the board has attempted to in the main post office because mailers established in 1935 to produce an im- distribute hunting pressures more equit- had placed two-cent stamps where proved breed of sheep and a better ably throughout all areas of the state. three cents postage is required. The quality of wool through crossing of —Orem-Geneva Times. Salt Lake Lions Club was considering native Navajo sheep with high grade • • • taking on the postage-due problem as rams. About $70,000 in current oper- Relic of Early Trapping Days . . . a regular activity of its advertising ating funds, 2439 acres of land and a ST. ANTHONY—A relic of early committee.—Salt Lake Tribune. number of buildings are involved in Utah trapping days, a handmade beaver • • • the transfer. The move was part of a trap set and left on a mountain stream, Prison trusties are being used in broad program aimed at narrowing the was discovered recently by a present- Utah, under the direction of the State scope of Indian Bureau operations.— day trapper, Francis Curr of Chester. Fish and Game commission, to seine New Mexican. Curr found the trap in the southeastern trash fish from popular game fishing section of Fremont County, where it waters in the state. Apaches Strengthen Claim . . . had been set and forgotten more than ALAMOGORDO — Documentary 100 years ago—possibly by Jim Brid- "OVERLOOKED FORTUNES" evidence has been uncovered in Wash- ger, John Colter or Andrew Henry, In the Rarer Minerals Find war minerals! Here are a few of the ington which substantiates the Mesca- famous Utah trappers and Mountain 40 or more strategic rarer minerals which lero Apache Indians' claim on the Men. The trap is about 30 inches long you may be overlooking in the hills or in 27,000-acre Fort Stanton pasture, ac- with 13-inch jaws. A handmade chain that mine or prospect hole: columbium. tan- cording to Rev. Wendell Chino, rep- ends in a large iron ring which served talum, uranium, vanadium, tungsten, nickel, resentative of the Apache Tribal Coun- as a stake-down.—Salt Lake Tribune. cobalt, bismuth, palladium, iridium, osmi- um, platinum, rhodium, ruthenium, titan- cil. Old maps and two treaties—dated • • • ium, tin, molybdenum, selenium, germanium, 1852 and 1875—seem to prove that Increase in Chukar Broods . . . manganese, cadmium, thallium, antimony, the land should have reverted to the CEDAR CITY—Doubling of brood mercury, chromium, etc. Prices booming; Apache people when the federal gov- stock numbers and expansion of fa- many much more valuable than a gold mine: cassiterite now $1000 a ton; bismuth ernment ceased to use it. The old Fort cilities at state bird farms should re- $1500 a ton; columbite $2500 a ton; tanta- Stanton military hospital recently was sult in a major increase in the number lite or microlite $5000 a ton; tungsten $3 turned over to the State of New Mex- of chukar partridges released in 1954. pound; platinum $90 ounce, etc. Now you ico for use as a tubercular hospital. Of the 6475 young chukars hatched at can learn what they are, how to find, iden- tify and cash in upon them. Send for free Rev. Chino pointed out that the 1100 the Price game bird farm this spring, copy "overlooked fortunes"—it may lead Indians living on the reservation des- 2000 will be transferred to the Spring- to knowledge which may make you rich! perately need the pasture land for the ville farm to be carried through the A postcard will do. expansion of their agriculture.—Aki- winter for brood stock there a year Duke's Research Laboratory mogordo News. hence. Another 2000 birds, will be Box 666. Dept. B. Hot Springs. New Mexico held at Price for next year's brood New Indian Head Sworn In ... stock. Balance of the Price chukar WASHINGTON — Glenn L. Em- hatch will be released this fall as sup- 1000 TRAVEL SCENES mons of Gallup was sworn in August plemental stock to partridges already 10 as Indian commissioner. After tak- established in 16 sites throughout the ing his oath from Floyd E. Dotson, state.—Iron County Record. FRCE USJ, chief clerk of the Interior Department, • t • • Emmons said he preferred not to com- Forest Fires Take Toll . . . TSAMPLES 30c WRITE TODAY ment on his plans until he learns more KANAB—Utah recorded only seven SPECIAL OFFER about his job. He succeeds Dillon S. more forest fires in 1952 than in 1951; To introduce readers of DESERT to our Myer. but the area burned in 1952 was 2"x2" COLOR SLIDES for home projec- double that destroyed the previous tion, we are offering a FREE 20 page UTAH catalog and a FREE sample color slide. year. A nationwide forest fire analysis Our color pictures are on many subjects, Flash Flood Hits Zion . . . issued by American Forest Products such as Travel, Science, Nature, Na- CEDAR CITY—More than $10,- Industries showed 202 fires burned tional Parks and the southwest. Write 000 damage was caused by a mid- 7049 acres in Utah in 1952. During today to— summer flash flood which struck in 1951 a total of 195 fires destroyed 3302 acres. Drouth conditions were KELLY D. C HODA Zion National Park. Mud and rocks BOX 588 STANFORD, CALIF. covered the Zion highway and washed blamed for the increase. James C. out portions of the road. At least IVz McClellan, chief forester for AFPI, We'll send your Free slide and miles of the highway will have to be lauded Utah's work in the national catalog promptly resurfaced.—Iron County Record. "Keep Green" forest fire prevention

OCTOBER, 1953 31 Petaca, New Mexico . . . A new firm, Tungsten Consolidated, is recovering columbite ore three miles MINES and MINING west of Petaca in Rio Arriba County. The firm commenced actual mining Las Vegas. Nevada . . . Henderson, Nevada . . . operations in June, and several thou- A midnight fire at the Three Kids After two years of construction, sand pounds of the mineral have been Mine that caused several hundred thou- Pioche Manganese Company's electric shipped to Kenametal, Inc., Latrobe, sand dollars' damage and halted pro- furnace at Henderson is now in opera- Pennsylvania. South Dakota is the duction of manganese ore going into tion. The first ferromanganese to be only other state that is at present min- the nation's stockpile will be investi- produced in the Henderson area was ing and processing columbite ores. The gated. Meanwhile, work stood still. tapped from the large electric furnace other known source of the metal, a "Even if we started immediate recon- June 22. A second furnace is expected master alloy, is Nigeria, Africa, where struction," said Sid McCarrel, assistant to be completed and in operation in the ore is recovered from tin mining. to Plant Manager F. A. McGonigle, the near future. Pioche Manganese is According to Ross Martinez and Glen "it would take at least eight months to an associate company of Combined Slater, who are in charge of Tungsten complete repair work and get back Metals Reduction Corporation, and Consolidated's operations, large ton- into production."—Mining Record. much of the furnace feed is being pro- nages of the mineral will be shipped, • • • duced at a kiln located in Caselton, as exploration work indicates from 2.8 Kingman, Arizona . . . Lincoln County, from ores mined in to 4 pounds of columbite can be re- C. A. R. Mines, Inc., is dewatering that vicinity by C.M.R. — Humboldt covered for every yard of earth moved. its Chapel Mine on Stockton Hill pre- Star. —New Mexican. paratory to exploring old levels that • • • are reported to contain commercial Salt Lake City, Utah . . . Carrizozo, New Mexico . . . grade lead-silver ore. The property Improved metallurgy for the atomic According to C. E. Degner, presi- was first worked for high grade silver age is being developed at the old dent of New Mexico Copper Corpora- ore in 1864.—Mining Record. Murray smelter formerly operated by tion, a recent discovery at the com- • • • pany's Conqueror Mine near Corona Kingman, Arizona . . . American Smelting and Refining Com- pany. The assay office and equipment indicates values of $40 to $100 per The Ruth and Rattan mine located ton in molybdenite, an oxide of mo- at the lower end of Silver Creek below now belongs to Minerals Refining Com- pany headed by Paul Cardon, chemist lybdenum. Metallurgical tests are now Oatman is the first all-gold mine to underway to determine the best method attempt to get underway in recent and inventor. Cardon and his asso- ciates are separating rare earths into of extraction. Meanwhile, the mine years. Present work consists of the continues to ship fluorspar. The ore, placement of equipment and the un- their component parts, giving particu- lar attention to the monazite recently carrying values in fluorspar, copper watering of the 400-foot shaft. Two and lead, is being stockpiled, to be known ore bodies will be explored discovered in Idaho's Boise Basin. Ac- cording to Cardon, monazite is the milled later by the corporation, which and the possibilities of new and virgin plans to build its own mill near Car- ground investigated. The operation is world's most available source of rare earths, which are extracted by use of rizozo or Corona.—Mining Record. being conducted by the Lead King • • • Company.—Battle Mountain Scout. a magnetic separator. The "Cardon • • • process — based on an exchange of Gabbs, Nevada . . . Searchlight, Nevada . . . ions—then separates the various rare Big Top tungsten mine eight miles earths.—Mining Record. A new strike of scheelite ore has southeast of Gabbs has shipped 3000 been reported on property recently op- m • • tons of ore during seven months of tioned to Homer C. Mills of Search- Austin, Nevada . . . open pit mining. Shipments to the U. light. Mills claims assays disclose high The Kingston mine and mill in King- S. Vanadium Corporation mill north tungsten values ranging from $232 to ston Canyon, inactive for the past two of Bishop have averaged a little over $1599 per ton. The property, located years, have resumed operations. Gor- 8 percent, although original assays had in the Old Woman Mountains near don Scheckler and associates have been as high as 15 percent. Open pit Danby, San Bernardino County, Cali- taken a lease on the property. The operations will continue until the ore fornia, would be operated by the mine, a gold and silver producer, dates can be taken out at depth through a Searchlight Consolidated Mining and back to early Austin mining days. The tunnel farther down the hillside. One Milling Company and the Sioux Min- mill was completed two years ago and of the owners, J. H. Baxter, and an ing and Milling Company. — Mining is capable of handling about 75 tons associate, R. R. Reed, plan to con- of ore a day.—Reese River Reveille. struct a 50-ton flotation mill at Gabbs Record. to handle the ore. — Reese River • • • Tombstone, Arizona . . . Gardnerville, Nevada . . . Reveille. Upon completion of survey work Purchase of the tungsten mill in the • • • under the Defense Minerals Explora- Pine Nut range from Alpine Mining Grand Junction, Colorado . . . tion, no new ore bodies were uncov- Company has been announced by the Bonus payments to uranium miners ered at the Abril Mine in the Dragoon Metallurgical Development Company in the Colorado Plateau are running Mountains. The low price of zinc has of Gabbs, new owners. In addition to $150,000 a month. Through July 31, made it impossible to mine any of the doing custom milling of tungsten ores, they totaled $2,162,378, Sheldon P. remaining ore, and the Abril has been M.D.C. recently opened up a valuable Wimpfen, manager of the Atomic En- dismantled and closed down. Opera- tungsten deposit on the mill property. ergy Commission operations office in tions had been in progress since Jan- Open pit methods are being used to Grand Junction, reported. The bonus uary, 1951, under lease by Sherwood mine the ore, and several thousand program started in March, 1951, to B. Owens of Tucson from Shattuck tons of profitable ore has been exposed encourage production of uranium from Denn Mining Corporation. — Tomb- and is being milled.—Territorial Enter- newly discovered deposits. — Phoenix stone Epitaph. prise. Gazette.

32 DESERT MAGAZINE AMATEUR GEM CUTTER By LELANDE QUICK, Editor of The Lapidary Journal During the several months since we last The grinding action of the stones against wrote about the tumbling of gemstones each other is hastened by the addition of much has happened in the laboratories of abrasive grain, and the best results are ob- the amateur gem cutters of America. And tained by at least two separate grinding much more will have to happen before this operations before polishing. In the first, or process becomes anything less than a messy, the coarse grind, silicon carbide grit of 40 tiresome and expensive way to add a few to 100 mesh may be used. It is wise to add stones to a collection. We personally like a small portion of 220 grit to this charge the feel and appearance of baroque gems in order to get cutting action in the small more than we do the correctly shaped cabo- holes and crevices of the stones. The second chons; they have more character. But for grinding operation may be carried on with the present at least we will purchase them. 320 to 400 grit after the stones and the bar- We will admit however that it must be a rel have been thoroughly washed. thrill to dump a batch from a tumbler and MacClanahan further states that an im- wash them to see what you have. portant factor in producing the desired finish Our good friend George MacClanahan of over the entire surface of the stones is the Sacramento explains the phenomenon of carrying agent. This acts as a filler and tumbling more clearly than anything we carries the grits and polishing material to have read on the subject. Others have writ- the hollow areas of the stones which norm- ten about how to tumble but we have seen ally would receive no grinding action. Many no explanation about what happens in the materials have been used for this purpose HILLQU1ST without motor. tumbler. George is making the Quad tum- such as sawdust, shot, ground cork, rubber bler now, the result of a lot of experiment- and leather clippings. All of these will work COMPARE! ing. He writes to us to say that the grind- to some extent but the chief objection to • Put the Hillquist Gemmaster beside any lapidary ing and polishing action that takes place in most of them is that they prolong the oper- machine — cheaper, flimsy "gadgets" or units that the tumbler barrel is produced by the slid- ation or they break down and form exces- sell at twice the price. Compare construction! Com- ing action of the stones against each other. sive sludge which prevents the stones from pare ease of operation! Compare how much you As the barrel turns, the load of stones is get for your money and you'll say, "I'll take the acquiring a good polish. Gemmaster!" inclined to a point where the upper portion Under the best conditions the polishing of the load starts to slide down the steep operation of the tumbler requires as much Here is a worthy companion for our larger and incline, to be covered by the following more expensive Hillquist Compact Lapidary Unit. masses of sliding stones. They are then or more time than both of the grinding Tho smaller in size, the Hillquist Gemmaster has carried to the top of the incline by the operations. While it is quite obvious that many of the same features. It's all-metal with spun rotating barrel to take their turn in this abrasive grains must be used in order to aluminum tub. You get a rugged, double-action rock mechanical landslide. This seems to us to smash the stones, little has been written clamp, not a puny little pebble pincher. You get a about the polishing process. The builder of full 3" babbitt sleeve bearing and ball thrust bear- be the best definition yet of tumbling—a ing. You get a big 7" Super Speed diamond saw mechanical landslide. Every rockhound a tumbler has been told that the type of and all the equipment you need to go right to work. knows what happens to his agates when polishing agent is optional. Few realize they have been tumbled through the ages that the frictional pressures produced in USES ALL ACCESSORIES tumbling are decidedly less than the lightest You can use all the regular Hillquist accessories through innumerable landslides, bowled with the Gemmaster: The Hillquist Facetor, Sphere along by streams and tumbled by glacial touch that could be used in a hand polishing Cutters, Laps, Drum and Disc Sanders, etc. action. operation against a buff. It becomes evident then that polishing agents requiring heavy WRITE FOR FREE CATALOG While a round barrel will give the greatest pressures or thick mixtures are of little diameter for the length of a slide it is the value. They greatly lengthen the time re- I COMPLETE, REAPYJp USE! YOU GET ALL THIS- wall slip, or the sliding of the entire mass quired to obtain a polish or they are incap- against the side of the barrel, that materi- able of producing a polish at all. Levigated ally reduces its efficiency. The hexagonal alumina, for example, is reported not to shaped barrel has a slightly shorter slide have proven very satisfactory. The use of length and this permits the load to be the oxides of tin, cerium or chrome or raised to a greater height with a minimum mixtures of them are much better, but the BIG 7" Diamond Saw • 6" x 1" Grinding of wall slip and, at the proper speed, this results still leave much to be desired unless Wheel • 6" Felt Buff • 6" Backing Wheel will add impetus to the slide. Some barrels the operating time is greatly prolonged. 6" Disc Sander • Double-action Rock | Clamp • Oil Feed Cup * Water Feed are coated on the inside to prevent wall Linde "A" powder, when properly used with Hose & Clamp • Dop Sticks & Dop Wax* slip. When this coating is effective in pro- just the right amount remaining in suspen- Polish, Compound, Etc. ducing the desired result it also has a ten- sion, does very well when it is combined BUILT FOR LONG SERVICEI dency to carry many of the stones past the with a carrying agent that is not too easily No other low-cost lap unit point of slide and drop them on the load. broken down. gives you full 3" sleeve This sometimes causes injury to thin deli- Experimentation indicates that the carry- bearing, ball thrust bearing cate pieces or to the edges of stones. ing agent is of prime importance. The ideal and pressure lubrication. The volume of the load in relation to the substance should be one that will resist size of the barrel is a determining factor in abrasion without itself causing abrasion. It the time necessary to complete a tumbling should be able to attract and hold the pol- operation. In a proper operation about a ishing agent and be small enough in size fifth of the load should be in the sliding to reach into all the small depressions of motion at all times and the entire load the stones being polished. should not exceed two fifths of the entire Our correspondent offers the following volume of the barrel. Loads that are less tips on tumbling that should prove helpful JASPER JUNCTION LAPIDARY than maximum in volume will have a to many: 4!>09y2 Eagle Rock Blvd. — CL. 6-2021 shorter slide length and will increase the Including small fragments of stones when Los Angeles 41, California time necessary to complete the operation. larger pieces are being ground or polished WORK SHOP The speed at which the barrel turns is will help speed the whole process. 1112 Neola St. — CL. 6-7197 important. The shape and size of the barrel Don't put in hunks and expect to get Los Angeles 41, California as well as its load will determine at what graceful drops and pendants from the batch. Break the material down to the approximate WE SPECIALIZE IN CUTTING BOOKENDS speed it will give the best results. A fairly Custom sawing and polishing—24" saw accurate method of determining an efficient shapes desired. Slabs, bulk stone, Mineral Specimens speed for your tumbler is to listen to the Don't expect large unsightly areas of Polished Specimens & Cabochons swish of the sliding stones. Gradually in- matrix to disappear in the tumbler; remove Machinery & Supplies crease the speed until you hear a click of them first. We rent polishing machinery by the hour dropping stones and then decrease it again Expect the two grinding operations to INSTRUCTION AT NO EXTRA COST until the stones can no longer be heard take at least 50 hours and the polishing Call CL. G-7197 for Appointment dropping. operation to take another 50 hours.

OCTOBER, 1953 33 1953 OREMASTER MINERAL DETECTORS GEMS <">

SANTA CRUZ SOCIETY ALL-ROCKHOUND POW-WOW PLANS THIRD ANNUAL SHOW ELECTION RESULTS TOLD Santa Cruz Mineral and Gem Society At the 1953 All-Rockhounds Pow-wow will hold its third annual show October 24 at Vantage, Washington, Darrell Irwin of and 25 at the Mission Hill Junior High Walla Walla was elected president for the School auditorium in Santa Cruz, California. coming year. Other new Pow-wow officers Will detect ALL radioactive min- Admission is free. are S. Elroy McCaw, Bremerton, first vice- erals, as well as gold, lead, silver, president; Tom Stockdale, Vantage, second copper, manganese, titanium etc., as NORTHERN CALIFOR*NIA vice-president; Mrs. Eunice Hansen, Eph- well as hundreds of other valuable ANNUAL SHOW IN OCTOBER rata, secretary, and Gil Morgan, Smyrna, minerals, when they are associated Northern California Mineral Society will treasurer. with or have a radiation content, hold its annual gem and mineral fair Octo- which they frequently have. Extra ber 17 and 18 in San Francisco. The society SPEAKER TELLS 'DIFFERENCES powerful and sensitive, to locate is considering changing its name to San IN NATURAL, CULTURED PEARLS deeper mineral deposits. Has built- Francisco Gem and Mineral Society. Mem- "The difference between the pearl and the in speaker, no ear phones to wear, bers feel the new name would better identify cultured pearl is the fact that Nature started no meter to watch. Makes prospect- the group. the former and man started the latter," Dr. ing easier, simpler and a pleasure • • • James J. Boutross told his audience when for both the professional and ama- Coal, "the most important member of he appeared as speaker for the Hollywood teur. Over 4000 acres of minerals America's mineral family," was discussed Lapidary and Mineral Society. discovered in 30 days with a single by George Land at the August meeting of With photographic placards, Dr. Boutross Oremaster. the Evansville, Indiana, Lapidary Society. explained the five major steps in producing Model H.D.D.-53—$129.50 prepaid Land is research chemist for the West Ken- a cultured pearl. First, the native diver, tucky Coal Company. wearing white to frighten away sharks, col- White's Electronics. • • • lects strong three-year-old oysters to receive John Gibson, instructor at San Antonio the culture cores. The irritant (mother-of- 1218 M. St. Sweet Home, Oregon Junior College, was made an honorary pearl is the best) is inserted in the oyster's member of San Antonio Rock and Lapidary fleshy mantle which alone has the power Society after he appeared on a club program of secreting the nacre. Five or six treated as guest speaker. He discussed crystallog- bivalves are then placed in the wire mesh raphy. basket which holds the oysters. The basket Vacation Is Over • • • is kept submerged in the sea by means of Hobbies will start again so get the items A potluck dinner and rock sale is sched- rafts. Every precaution is taken to guard you need before classes begin uled for September by San Diego Lapidary against contamination of the water and to FOR THE LAPIDARY OR STONE CUTTER Society. protect the oysters from their natural en- 40 to 50 s

(PLEASE ADD POSTAGE TO ALL ORDERS) BEFORE YOU BUY CQEC CATAIdC^ Satisfaction guaranteed or money refunded. SEND FOR OUR BIG tKCC \.MIML\J\J Items marked (I.F.T.) include Fed. Tax. Calif, residents add 39c sales tax. DEALER'S PRICE LIST AVAILABLE The world-famous HILLQUIST LINE of lapidary equipment LAPIDARY EQUIP. CO. 1545 w. 49 ST., SEATTLE 7, WASH Coast Gems and Minerals

116G9 Ferris Road El Monte, California

34 DESERT MAGAZINE Here's Real Fun! Find Strategic Minerals, Hidden Wealth with Ultra-Violet MINERALIGHT! Strike MINERALIGHT instantly locates, identifies vital minerals, saves hours of fruitless search. Invaluable ior prospectors, miners, engineers and hobbyists, MINERALIGHT helps you find tungsten, ur- anium, mercury, zirconium and many other minerals now being sought ior use in vital preparedness work. it Rich! ULTRA-VIOLET FLUORESCENCE STUDY IS AN INTERESTING AND PLEASANT HOBBY! Even through you may not be interested professionally, you'U still find a great deal oi fun and happiness when you make ultra-violet study and mineral sample collection your hobby.

Ultra-Violet MINERALIGHT FIELD CASE opens up new, strange worlds No. 404 MODEL Contains special bat- M-12 —gorgeous colors and reac- tery circuit for MIN- tions you never knew existed. ERALIGHT SL-2537 Completely or SL-3660. Case self-contained, Make this exciting hobby MINERALIGHT SL-2537 holds lamp, bat- battery operated, teries, built-in day- weighs only 3V4 lbs. YOUR hobby! All purpose lamp, operates on $34.50 plus battery (80c) 110V AC, weighs only 1 lb. $39.50 light viewer. $19.50 (Plus Bats. $4.50) Complete: SL-2537, LEARN TO RECOGNIZE 404 CASE, BATS. $63.50. DISPLAY & EXHIBIT UNIT VALUABLE MINERALS When you use Ultra-Violet's MODEL XX-15 LONG WAVE MINERALIGHT, you want to A high quality 110V AC lamp giv- be able to recognize the pat- MODEL ing excellent intensity and cover- terns and colors that samples TH MODEL age for mineral sample exhibits flnoresce. Mineral sets, pack- and displays. Price $34.75. Other aged in varied assortments of Has bulb SL-3660-LONG WAVE multiple- the various minerals yon will rated at 110V AC unit. (Can be used as a tube encounter, are valuable aids. 1000-2000 portable unit for Held work in eon- models hours of use with 90-day guar- junction with Carrying Case Nos. available. Ultra - Violet MINERALIGHT antee. Includes a transformer 303, 404, or 505.) Weight 1 lb. $29.50 rays show them in all their with switch for continuous high exciting colors—permit you to efficiency. Price $17.50. Model H recognize what you find in is similar, same bulb, except has Some materials fluoresce to short wave lengths and some to long wave lengths. the field. Mineral sets are resistance cord instead of trans- Others will react to both wave lengths but with different color responses. available at only $2.50 per set former. Approximately % the in- Although practically all commercially important minerals (the ones that have of 10 specimens, carefully pack- tensity of the TH. $12.50 real monetary value) are activated by short wave, many collectors specialize aged in foam plastic. in the more unusual long wave minerals. . See MINERALIGHT in Action! Your Deafer Has It! Here is a partial list of the more than 500 Ultra-Violet MINERALIGHT dealers ready to serve you—coast to coast. ALASKA Los Angeles San Carlos Ancient Buried City NEW MEXICO Nixon Blue Print Co. Mineral Equip. Sales & Black Light Corp. of Lloyd Underwood, Wickliffe New Mexico Minerals Wilson Tower. Research Los Angeles 1027 E. San Carlos Ave. 11003 Central N.E.. Corpus Christi Box 1442, Fairbanks 5403 Santa Monica Blvd. San Diego LOUISIANA Albuquerque Greene Brothers, Inc. Rlley's 1812 Griffin, Dallas The Bradleys Gem Arts, 4286 Marlborougr. 423 Crockett St., Shreveport Adobe Crafters ARIZONA 4639 Crenshaw Blvd. Plummer's Minerals Don A. Carpenter Co. Gritzner's Minerals Engineers Syndicate. Ltd. 4720 Point Loma Ave. MASSACHUSETTS Rt. 2, Box 341. Santa Fe P.O. Box 1741, El Paso 135 N. Sirrlne St., Mesa 5011 Hollywood Blvd. Superior Gems & Minerals Schortmann's Minerals Bell Reproduction Company A. V. Herr Laboratory 4665 Park Blvd. 6 McKlnley Ave., 907 Throckmorton, Pratt-Gilbert Hardware Co. 5176 Hollywood Blvd. Easthampton New York Laboratory Sup. Fort Worth 701 S. Tth St., Phoenix San Francisco Co. Inc. Jasper Junction Lapidary Leo Kaufmann Quabbin Book House Industrial Scientific, Inc. Sam'l Hill Hardware Co. 1112 Neola St. 729 Harrison St. 78 Varick St., New York City 142 S. Montezuma St., Ware 1014 Taylor St., Fort Worth J. J. Jewelcraft Son Gabriel New York Scientific Sup. Co. Ridgway's Prescott 2732 Colorado Blvd. MICHIGAN 28 W. 30th St.. Rainbow Gem Company New York City 615 Caroline St., Houston Randolph Oak Creek Canyon Mine & Mill Machinery Co. 546 W. Mission Dr. Int'l. Stamp Bureau Panther City Office Sup. Co. Mineral Shop, Sedona 310 E. 3rd St. 125 W. Adams Ave., Detroit The Radiac Co. Inc. Shannon Luminous 315 N. Colorado, Midland Mission Curio Mart Thompson's Mineral Studio MINNESOTA 489 5th Ave., New York City Farquhar's Rocks & 4400 Mission Road, Tucson Materials Co. P.O. Box 124 Nokomis Lapidary & Standard Scientific Sup. Corp. Minerals 7356 Sta. Monica Blvd. South Pasadena Watch Shop 34 W. 4th St., 134 Hollenbeck, San Antonio Hazel E. Wright Stratex Instrument Co. Dunham Economy 3840 26th Ave. So., New York City 30 Cochise Row, Warren 1861 Hillhurst Ave. Concentrator Co. Minneapolis East Texas Photocopy Co. Nopo 853 Mission St. OHIO 308 N. Broadway St., Tyler ARKANSAS Brandt's Rock & Gem Shop MISSOURI Akron Lapidary Co. UTAH House of Hobbies, Rt. 4 1034-A Sonoma Hlway COLORADO Asterley Ozark Shop 1095 Chalker St., Akron Dr. H. T. Plumb The Gem Exchange U.S. Hwy 61-67, De Soto 2400 Sunnyslde Ave., Hot Springs Nat'l. Park Needles Gem Village, Bayfleld Cincinnati Museum of McShan's Gem Shop Craven's Diamond Shop Co. Nat. His. Salt Lake City Black Light Corp. of 2008 Bryant Bide., WASHINGTON Highway 66 Colorado Central Pkwy at Walnut, CALIFORNIA North Hollywood Kansas City Cincinnati Fulmer's Agate Shop Berkeley Modern Science Laboratories 209 Johnson Bldg.. Denver Cy Miller 5212 Rainier Ave., Seattle Minerals Unlimited 8049 St. Clalr Ave. Rlley's Reproduction 110 E. 13th St.. Kansas City OREGON 1724 University Ave. 1540 Glenarm Place, Denver Prospector's Equipment Co. Orange Cove MONTANA The Rock Market 2022 Third Ave., Seattle Big Pine Wm. M. Cllngan, Shelden's Minerals Agency Yellowstone Agate Shop R. 1, Box 225, Eagle Point Bedell's Mercantile Clingan's Jet. 307 14th St.. Denver Box 4, Hiway 89, Livingston The House of Guns C. M. FassettCo.. 118 N. Main St. Highway 180 Eckert Mineral Research 111 Washington St.. W. 7 Trent Ave., Spokane Bishop Palo Alto 112 E. Main St., Florence NEBRASKA Garibaldi Tacoma Lapidary Sup. Co. Bishop Hardware & Sup. Co. Fisher Research Labor., Inc. Palmer's Lapidary & Hastings Typewriter Co. Hodge Podge Agate & 631 St. Helens Ave., Tacoma 336 N. Main St. 1961 University Ave. 518 W. 3rd St., Hastings Fixit Shop Supply Shop Irwln's Gem Shop Buena Pork 1503 N. College, Ft. Collins NEVADA Pasadena 322 Hlway 99 8., Grants Pass 381 Chase Ave., Walla Walla Ghost Town Rock & Grieger's Bernstein Brothers Toiyabe Supply Company Wrlghtway Gemcrafters Book Shop 1633 E. Walnut St. 164 N. Mechanic St., Pueblo P.O. Box 4, Hauser Williams Lapidary Supply Knott's Berry Farm Gabbs Paso Robles D. C—Washington Woodfords Cash Store, Smith's Fluorescents P.O. Box SO. Watervllle Canoga Park Coast Counties Pump & WISCONSIN Warren C. Bleber Gem Lapidary Woodfords, Calif.. Em. 311-220 S.W. Alder. 7229 Remmet Ave. Elec. Co. 2006 Florida Ave. N.W., Portland C-C Distributing Company 1240% Park St. Washington, D.C. P.O. Gardnerville, Nev. Dorothy's Gift Shop 3104 W. Vliet St., Milwaukee Castro Valley Placervllle FLORIDA Arthur C. Ten-ill 4639 N. Stephens. Roseburg The House of Hobbies The Sterling Shop, Enterprises Unlimited 8679 Castro Valley Blvd. Rt. 3, Box 143 Ropk & Shell Shop 15 Water St., Henderson White's Furniture 721 W. Wisconsin, Milwaukee 2033 Red Road Rock Hollow, 1218 M St., Sweet Home The Stones Throw Rock Shop Compton Randsburg & Ridgecrest Coral Gables Last Frontier Village Compton Rock Shop PENNSYLVANIA 221 S. Main St., Walworth 1409 S. Long Beach Blvd. W. A. Hankammer GEORGIA Las Vegas Lost Cave Mineral Shop Redlands Ken Dunham CANADA Fresno Owen Hoffman P.O. Box 150, Mina Lost Cave, Hellertown Riley's Reproductions Ltd. Covington Lapidary N. Alexander Ave., 630 8th Ave. W. Pacific Mill & Mine Sup. Co. Engineering Washington Commercial Hardware Co. TENNESSEE 530 Van Ness Ave. 1st & Hlway 99 500 E. 4th St.. Reno Technical Products Company Calgary, Alta. IDAHO Milburns Gem Shop Glendale Reedley Nevada Gem Shop 19 N. Dunlap, Memphis Pascoes Tyler Jack The Sawtooth Company 1605 Trans-Canada Hwy., 1414 W. Glenoaks Hare's Pharmacy 1115 Grove St., Boise 335 East 4th. Ri-no TEXAS New Westminster, B.C. Nevada Mineral Laboratories D & B Engineering Co. Inc. Cave & Company Ltd. Lodl Riverside S. V. Hlgley 567 Hornby St., Armstrong's Hurrle's Gem Shop 1718 Albion Ave., Burley 336 Morrlil Ave., Reno 1510 S. 14th St., Abilene Vancouver, B.C. Rt. 2. Box 516 3825 7th St. ILLINOIS Tonopah Studio Dwight's Sharpe Instruments Ltd. Long Beach Sacramento Tom Roberts Rock Shop P.O. Box 331. Tonopah 516 Tyler St., Amarlllo 6038 YongeSt., EUlott Gem & Mineral Shop MacClanahan & Son 1006 S. Michigan Ave., Newtonbrook, Toronto, Ont. 235 E. Seaside Blvd. 3461 2nd Ave. Chicago NEW JERSEY Odom's Gordon's Gem & Mineral Ivan Ogden Ret R. Latta Lapidary Equip. Para Laboratory Sup. Co. Star Rt A, Box 32-C, Austin Supplies 520 56th St. 254 Pearl Ave., Loves Park 221 N. Hermitage Ave., ULTRA-VIOLET PRODUCTS, INC. 1850 E. Pac. Coast Hwy. San Bernardino KENTUCKY Trenton Mohave Sales, Inc. Greenwood's Ben E. Clement Westfleld Lapidary & Sup. Co. 145 Pasadena Awe.. South Pasadena, Calif. 1768 Atlantic Ave. 455 Third St. Marion 309 Hyslip Ave., Westfleld

OCTOBER, 1953 35 NEW MEXICO'S finest red Calcite for sale. Fluoresces strawberry red under short ADVERTISING RATE wave lamp. Rattlesnake Calcite, fluor- G E m m A R T10c a Word . . . Minimum $1.50 esces pink and phosphoresces blue under short wave lamp. $1.20 lb. postpaid or $75.00 per 100 lbs., freight paid. Satis- faction guaranteed or money refunded. MINERAL SPECIMENS and cutting ma- GEMS AND MINERALS, collecting gem- Tom Ellis, Rt. 2, Box 492, Waco, Texas. terials, specimen boxes—24 %-inch Black cutting. Illustrated magazine tells how, Hills minerals identified, Black Hills where to collect and buy, many dealer PONY BUTTE Thundereggs from the or- gold jewelry. Send for complete list and advertisements. Completely covers the iginal Priday Ranch in Central Oregon. prices. The Rock House, Mac-Mich hobby. The rockhound's own magazine $1.25 per pound and 5 pounds for $5.00. Minerals Co., Custer, South Dakota. for only $3.00 a year (12 full issues) or Hastings Typewriter Co., Hastings, Neb. write for brochure and booklist. Mineral MOJAVE DESERT GEMSTONE, beautiful Notes and News, Box 716A, Palmdale, BOOKS: Beginners to advanced. Gemology, moss, plumes, rainbow, Horse Canyon, California. mineralogy, geology, etc. Write today banded and other gemstone from many for free price list. Gem Finders, 859 parts of the country. Send for our De- ATTENTION ROCK COLLECTORS. It North Ramona, Hawthorne, California. Luxe Selection of 25 sq. inches, or an will pay you to visit the Ken-Dor Rock 8 lb. mixture of high grade gemstone for Roost. We buy, sell, or exchange min- FOR SALE: Beautiful purple petrified $5.00 shipped prepaid with our money eral specimens. Visitors are always wel- wood with uranium, pyrolusite, manga- back guarantee. Hunt your gemstone in come. Ken-Dor Rock Roost, 419 Sut- nite. Nice sample $1.00. Postage. Maggie our rock yard; we will ship prepaid and ter, Modesto, California. Baker, Cameron, Arizona. insured, 50 sq. inches selected gemstone for your approval, send 25c per inch for OPALS AND SAPPHIRES rough, direct McSHAN'S GEM SHOP—open part time, what you keep and return the balance from Australia. Cutting opal, 1 ounce or find us by directions on door. Cholla prepaid and insured. Write for our gem- $5, $10, $20, $30 and $60. Blue sap- cactus wood a specialty, write for prices. stone price list. We sell Highland Park phires, 1 ounce $10, $30, and $60. Star 1 mile west on U. S. 66. Needles, Cali- lapidary equipment, Congo reversible saw sapphires, 12 stones $10, $20, and $30, fornia, Box 22. blades, write for literature. San Fernando etc. Post free and insured. Send inter- Valley Rock Shop, 6329 Lindley Ave., national money order, bank draft. Aus- AUSTRALIAN cutting fire opal, specimens, Reseda, California. tralian Gem Trading Co., 49 Elizabeth cutting material. H. A. Ivers, 1400 Ha- St., Melbourne, Australia. Free list of cienda Blvd., La Habra, California. FOR SALE—Lapidary Supply Store. Good all Australian stones rough and cut, 16 pp. buy. Direct and catalog business, whole- MINERAL SPECIMENS, cabochons and sale and retail-full price $18,000.00. If ONYX BLANKS, unpolished, black 25c cutting material of all kinds, western interested write S. J. Markley, 1151 E. each; red, green, blue 35c each. Perfect jewelry. Beautiful travertine for book 65th St., Inglewood, California. cut titanium. Fine cutting and polishing ends, paper weights, spheres etc. Write at reasonable prices. Prompt attention to for prices. Eighteen miles south of Battle SUNSTONE (Feldspar): Rough. These mail orders. Juchem Bros., 315 West 5th Mountain at Copper Canyon, John L. gems will polish to almost the brilliance St., Los Angeles 13, California. James, Box 495, Battle Mountain, Nev. of a diamond, Vi lb., about 80 stones $4.00 postpaid. J. Banasco, Plush, Ore. FIFTY MINERAL Specimens, %-in. or TONOPAH, Nevada, is where C. C. Boak over, boxed, identified, described, mounted. lives, with his outstanding, scientific, MIREN! BUSCADORES DE TESOROS. Postpaid $4.00. Old Prospector, Box 729, world-wide collection of Mineral, Gem War Surplus SCR-625-C Mine Detector Lodi, California. and semi-Gemstone species—spectacular locates metals underground. Never field crystal groups, etc. Visitors welcome. C. tripped. Fully complete in original GOLDEN & BACON Stripe Onyx from C. Boak, 511 Ellis St., Tonopah, Nevada. wooden chest with spare parts. $75 takes Columbus, N. M. Small unpolished, un- it. Robert O. Greenawalt, 3643 No. sorted, sawed on one side, pieces, postpaid Rosemead Blvd., Rosemead, California. to anywhere in Continental U. S. two EDIBLE DESERT GEMS—Dates grown dollars. Ton prices on application. Proc- in deep virgin soil of an ancient sea bed. essing plant for sale. A. J. Evans, Deming, Perfect for supplying quick energy to TREASURE HUNTERS New Mexico. rockhounds on field trips. Rich in many New type metals detector. Distinguishes vital protective minerals and vitamins. 2 metals from black magnetic sands. Ideal for lbs. Desert Nuggets $1.00; 5 lbs. Family locating gold nuggets, placer deposits. De- GENUINE TURQUOISE: Natural color, Special $2.50; 5 lbs. Choicer dates $3.25; tects metals under salt water. Locates blue and bluish green, cut and polished coins, jewelry 10 lbs. Semi-dry $4.50; 15 lbs. Chewy on beaches. cabochons—25 carats (5 to 10 stones Natural $6.75. Delivered, cheapest way. Free from according to size) $3.50 including tax, Lee Anderson's Covalda Date Co. false detec- postpaid in U.S.A. Package 50 carats tions. Each (Grower, packer, shipper). Hiway 99 at unit supplied (10 to 20 cabochons) $6.15 including Coachella, California. P. O. Box 208D. with two dif- tax, postpaid in U.S.A. Elliott Gem & ferent search coils. Ask for Mineral Shop, 235 E. Seaside Blvd., Long free 1 i t e r a - Beach 2, California. ROCKHOUND PARADISE. Stop and see ture. our display. Montana moss agate rough GARDINER DENDRITIC OPAL, Kansas, good polish- and slabs. No junk. Also other slabs ELECTRONICS ing stone, only $1.25 a pound. Hastings and minerals. Fluorescent calcite and CO., DEPT. DM Typewriter Co., Hastings, Nebraska. willemite. Satisfaction guaranteed or 2018 N. DAYTON money back. Write for prices. P. G. PHOENIX, ARIZ. RADIOACTIVE ORE Collection: 6 won- Nichols, Prop., Sun Valley Trailer Park, derful different specimens in neat Red- 3922 No. Oracle Rd., Tucson, Arizona. wood chest, $2.00. Pretty Gold nugget. $1.00, four nuggets, $2.00, choice col- ALASKA JADE lection 12 nuggets, $5.00. Uranium IMPORT-EXPORT! Opportunity profitable, Here is an outstanding jade, flaw- Prospector, Box 604, Stockton, Calif. world-wide, mail-order business from less, black and apple green in color, home, without capital, or travel abroad. available to the amateur cutter in FOR MINERALIGHTS, Geiger Counters Established World Trader ships instruc- very limited quantity at $20.00 per Lapidary Equipment, Books, The Geode, tions for no-risk examination. Experience sq. in. Selected cabochons of above "A friendly little mineral publication," unnecessary. Free details. Mellinger. jade in sizes 18x13 oval, 16x12 oval, right priced quality minerals or Desert 4622 J. B. Wilshire Blvd. Los Angeles 5, and 20x8 high domed cushion at $3.00 Adventures and guide service write to California. each. Light blue-green jade $10.00 Gritzner's, Mesa 3, Arizona. lb., $6.00 half pound, $1.00 sq. in. THE MINERAL COLLECTOR'S Guide to Prices include tax, postage, and in- $2.00 BRINGS YOU one beautiful arago- Wyoming is now' available with maps, surance. Air mail your order today. nite specimen. Reacts a beautiful apricot articles about interesting towns, parks, Satisfaction guaranteed yellow under short wave. Ask for list of camping areas etc. Special sections cover ALASKA HANDCRAFTKRS many new specimens in stock. Jack The semi-precious stones, unusual rocks and Rockhound, P. O. Box 245, Carbondale, minerals of Wyoming. 25c. Gritzners, Box 1891, Fairbanks, Alaska Colo. Mesa 3, Arizona.

36 DESERT MAGAZINE John D. Altmann of the Australian Gem "The Origin of Gem Stone Minerals" Trading Company, Melbourne, whose col- was the topic of Dr. W. E. Ham, acting lection of rough and cut Australian gems director of the Oklahoma Geological Sur- PRECISION RADIATION was shown at the Long Beach show in vey, when he spoke to members of the Okla- August, was guest speaker at the August homa Mineral and Gem Society, Oklahoma INSTRUMENTS meeting of Compton, California, Gem and City. Dr. Ham selected 25 of the better TAKES PRIDE IN Mineral Club. He showed a short movie known gems and discussed generally ac- ANNOUNCING THE and spoke on the opal mines "down under." cepted theories regarding their formation. • • • • • • Four late summer field trips were an- Members of Santa Fe Gem and Mineral "SCINTILLATOIT nounced in the August issue of the Colo- Club planned to spend the Labor Day rado Mineral Society's Mineral Minutes. weekend on a field trip outing in Colorado, Places to be visited were Mount Antero, as guests of the Rio Grande Rock Club. •Patent Pending two old mining camps near Denver, and They would visit the upper shores of Farm- Custer, South Dakota, destination for the ers Union Reservoir on the Rio Grande. Labor Day holiday. Particularly good hunting grounds nearby MODEL 111 • • • are the opal beds on Ute Creek and the Mineral and gem collecting at Willow egg deposits on the slopes of Pole Moun- Portable Creek Beach and Jade Cove was anticipated tain. Scintillation by members of Delvers Gem and Mineral • • • Counter Society, Downey, California. A late Au- At an outdoor supper meeting of El gust trip was planned to the two coastal Paso Mineral and Gem Society, El Paso, sites. Texas, informal talks were given by mem- • • • bers recently returned from vacation trips. A three-day field trip to Delta, Utah, for Mrs. Mary Vogel told about her five weeks trilobites was planned by the Clark County in the Northwest and Canada; Emil Frie • Made in the V. S. A. by Precision • 100 Gem Collectors, Las Vegas, Nevada, for related events of his Minnesota stay; the times the sensitivity of the best Geiger the Labor Day weekend. Counter • Suitable for aerial surveys or Newells described their two-week tour of surveys from moving vehicles • Accuracy • • • the Northwest and Canada, and Ralph Bot- within 3% of 3i full scale reading • Uses "You'll need to invest about $3000 if you latest type RCA 6199 photomultiplier tube ter spoke of his month-long Navy Reserve • Uses newest simplified circuit • Used want to search seriously for radioactive cruise to South America. Jack Leasure by U. S. Geological Survey and the Atomic ores," Speaker John Louden told members gave a report of his trip to F'alo Dura Energy Commission • Waterproof and of Delvers Gem and Mineral Society, tropicalized probe • Weight only (i'i lbs. Canyon, where he found petrified woods Probe 2 lbs. • Only two simple controls Downey, California. Louden listed a used and agate. • Long battery life • Ranges .025, .05, .25, jeep and gasoline at $12000; $1000 for a 1, S and 25 MR/HR. scintillometer; $200 for a geiger counter: • • • $500 or $600 for food and other supplies Northern California Mineral Society was Price Complete only $495.00 Write for free catalog on the "Scintillator" and equipment. He described the use of the complimented by rockhound visitors at the and our complete line of Geiger Counters scintillometer and geiger counter and dem- recent San Diego show for the design and and metal locators. onstrated them on samples of radioactive workmanship of its display cases. The cases DEALER INQUIRIES INVITED ore. were constructed by society members. • • • PRECISION RADIATION INSTRUMENTS Two movies, "The Airborne Magneto- 2235DS South La Brea Ave. meter" and the Chicago Natural History Los Angeles 16, California Museum's "Through These Doors," were BEFORE YOU PLAN shown at a meeting of the Earth Science Club of Northern Illinois. An auction fol- lowed. YOUR NEXT VACATION • • • Why not consider a Desert Ad- Delicately Lobed Junior members of the Earth Science Club venture? Write ior free literature of Northern Illinois went fossil hunting re- and Richly Encrusted cently. With their adult escort, they visited about the truly western the Braidwood fossil area in the strip mine way to have the time district. On a later excursion, the young of your life. BEAUTIFUL MOUNTAIN LEATHER collectors explored the Coker Mine near Gem-sparkled with crystals, is available Mifflin, Wisconsin, and the Vinegar Hill in limited supply to museums at $25.00, Zinc Company's dumps east of New Dig- also smaller material while it lasts, at gings, Wisconsin. At the latter site, a 135 N. Sirrine Street $1.00 to $5.00. This is fine and rare. quantity of large lustrous calcite crystals MESA, ARIZONA were gathered. HEMME OF GILROY RT. 1 • BOX 8-D GILROY, CALIFORNIA

• Specializing in • FINE FOREIGN GEMS Petrified Wood, Moss Agate, Chrysocolla AND MINERALS Turquoise, Jade and Jasper Jewelry Lapidary Equipment and Supplies C WE* HAND MADE IN STERLING SILVER Gem drills—Jewelry tools—Sterling \. • . i Jewelry Mountings—Books—Mineralights Bracelets, Rings, Necklaces, Earrings V SUPERIOR GEMS & MINERALS and Brooches 4665 Park Blvd.. San Diego 16. California SPECIALLY SELECTED STONES WITH Open 10:30 A.M. to 8:00 P.M. 1 ' J CHOICE COLORS AND PICTURES Closed Sundays 1 mf Write for Folder With Prices r" ^ 1 MINERAL CATALOG AVAILABLE ELLIOTT'S GEM SHOP Send 5c, cost of handling If you want Fine and Rare Minerals, Ores, 235 East Seaside Blvd. LONG BEACH 2. CALIF. Fluorescents, Geiger Counters, Mineralights, Across from West End of Municipal Books, Ring Mounts, or advice, write to— ..' .- , _. ...-iVi Auditorium Grounds MINERALS UNLIMITED Hours 10 A.M. to 9 P.M. Daily Except Monday 1724 University Ave., Berkeley 3, California

OCTOBER, 1953 37 Potluck dinner was scheduled for the Robert Deidrick of East Bay Mineral -Sensational! GEIGER COUNTER September meeting of San Diego Lapidary Society, Oakland, California, accepted the Society. A rock sale was planned to raise invitation of the Gem and Mineral Society money for the society's annual Christmas of San Mateo County to speak at a recent "The SNOOPER* dinner. meeting. His topic was "Mineral Collect- LOW PRICE $4A AC Y • • • ing." ONLY fc5J.*Ja • • e COMPLETE Antona Stillwell showed a series of slides taken in Utah at the August meeting of Jack Gaston acted as auctioneer at a I Find a fortune in uranium with this new, super-sensitive Geiger Counter. Everett Rock and Gem Club, Everett. Wash- recent meeting of Los Angeles Lapidary Get one for atom bomb defense. So small it fits in the palm of Society. An abundance of fine material was the hand or in the hip pocket, and yet more sensitive than many ington. large, expensive instruments. Weighs only 1 V4 lbs. Uses flash- offered for sale. light battery. Low price includes earphone, radio active sample, • • e instructions. Sold with ironclad moneyback guarantee. On a weekend trip to the Rock Creek ORDER YOURS TODAY — Send $ 5 with order or payment in full area near Dougherty, Oklahoma, members A field trip to the Himalaya Tourmaline to save C.O.D. Write for free catalog on larger, more elaborate Mine was scheduled for August by San Geigcr Counters, metal locators and out Scintillacor Counter. of Oklahoma Mineral and Gem Society gathered limonite pseudomorphs after pyrite Diego Lapidary Society. Other excursions Dealer Inquiries PRECISION RADIATION INSTRUMENTS near the site of an abandoned silver mine. planned for future month", include a trip Invited 2235D So. La Brea Ave., L. A. 16, Calif. to Boulder Dam for fliwering agate; to The rockhounds left behind good specimens : of petrified wood too large to carry. Pinto Mountain in Mex co for chert and petrified wood; to the Cal'co Mountains for • • • agate and jasper; Turtle Mountains for moss CALIFORNIA August field trip of Long Beach Mineral agate; Quartzsite ;>nd Wiley Wells for crys- HOUSE OF ROCKS and Gem Society was to Livingston Quarry, tals, fire agaie and geodes; and Weldon, Lapidary Supplies — Mountings Palos Verdes. The group's annual picnic Arizcna, for agate and black geodes. Frank Cutting Material — Minerals was scheduled for September in Brea, Cali- Whigham is field trip chairman. Send for Free Price List fornia. 16208 8. Clark Ave., Bellflower, California • o • Store hours 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.. Closed • • • Mrs. J. D. Martin, former owner of Mar- Sunday and Monday Phone Torrcy 743-09 The large summer issue of the Georgia tins Mineral Mart in Gilroy and Nevada Mineral News Letter contains many well- City, has opened a new shop called Hemme illustrated articles of interest to geologists, of Gilroy. Mrs. Martin traveled 2300 miles miners, engineers, mineralogists, paleon- in California and Arizona this spring, FAMOUS TEXAS PLUMES tologists and amateur hobbyists in related gathering material for her stock. Red Plume, Pom Pom and many other types of agate. Slabs on approval. Rough agate, fields. Lewis Lipps writes of "Paleontology • • • 8 lb. mixture postpaid, $5.00. Price list on and Mineralogy in Georgia Schools"; James request. R. Wells describes electric logging of water Pasadena Lapidary Society planned a WOODWARD RANCH wells, and Lane Mitchell, director of the Labor Day weekend at Cambria, California, 17 miles So. on Hwy 118 School of Ceramic Engineering at Georgia to search the beaches for jade. Box 453. Alpine. Texas Institute of Technology, tells of "The Soil • • • Forming Minerals and their Transforma- An open air meeting was enjoyed by tions." Also included are stories about re- Wasatch Gem Society, Salt Lake City, Utah, THIS MONTH cent oil tests in Georgia and interesting at the Copperton home of Russel Ander- SPECIAL No. 73 TIPS mining operations and mineral locations in son. Speaker was Don Jordan, who gave 4 for $1.00 Sterling silver—tax paid. the state. tips on silverworking. Is cone shaped cap. Cement over baroque stones. Cement for 60c. Free 8!/2xll" illust. catalog other findings and mountings for asking. DOCKSTADER'S I,a Crescenta, Calif. It Could Be There... Prospecting with Modern Electronic Equipment, ALXA INDUSTRIES will help locate buried minerals, that the eye alone Mailing Address: cannot see. Box 19, Lavcen Stage, Phoenix, Arizona Location—7006 So. 19th Avenue The latest improved equipment by Detectron: For LAPIDARY EQUIPMENT testing uranium ore this inexpensive high Lapidary Equipment Manufacture & Design quality CLAIMSTAKER $ 37.50 16-18 inch Power Feed Slabbing Saw The Prospectors Pal, Model DG-2. Now more sen- Belt Sanders & Trim Saws sitive than ever, with three scale sensitivity (Send Postal for free literature) meter $ 98.50 Model DG-7. Same as above with separate, de- tached probe $135.00 TURQUOISE NUGGETS The Nucliometer, Model DR-290. Super sensitive Radiation Detector of extreme sensitivity, for Sleeping Beauty, natural shape, clean, ground, jeep, car, and Airplane survey.. $545.00 tumbled, Vi" to %" size, 12 nuggets The light weight Detectron Model 27. Prospecting $1.00 postpaid. for metallic mineral, Gold and Silver included. LOST MOUNTAIN GEMS (Depth Range 7 ft.) $ 98.50 The Deluxe Model 27—see cut above. Same as above with easy reading P. O. Box 5012 Phoenix. Arirona meter $110.00 Model 711. Metal case, light weight, easy to carry, and with a depth range of 21 ft $138.50 PANCHO THE ROCKHOUND The above instruments carry a One Year Guarantee says, "Write for our list of against defects in workmanship and materials Gems, Minerals, and Cutting Materials. Also books on lapi- dary and equipment." All prices are F.O.B. Compton, California LAS PALMAS ANTIQUE SHOP We stock a complete line of Ultra-Violet Miner- 818 Ft. Stockton Dr. alights, also gem and rock polishing San Diego 3. California equipment and supplies FIRE OPAL MCXICO COMPTON ROCK SHOP Fine minerals, Aztec agate and other 1409 South Long Beach Blvd., Dept. D. CHOICE cutting materials Compton, California REQUEST FREE PRICE LIST Open house every Tuesday Eve. RALPH E. MUELLER & SON Telephone Newmark 2-9096 1000 E. Camelback Phoenix, Arizona Model DG-7

38 DESERT MAGAZINE Bate One basic requirement for the assessment and utilization of natural resources of a re- gion is an up-to-date large-scale topographic map. Such a map is the control upon which every type of regional or detailed data is plotted and evaluated. Prospectors, rockhounds, fishermen, hunters and hikers find topographic maps indispensable in finding their way about in unfamiliar areas and in relocating points previously visited. Choice Earrings Amethyst i small— In a recent bulletin of its Mineral Infor- or Topaz X with S/S mation Service, the California Division of which distributes all of the quadrangle maps, (Citrine) i earwires Necklace $2.95 Mines tells the forms, uses and variety of and the U.S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, with S/S Necklace topographic maps and explains how data for which distributes nautical and aeronautical Chain and them is gathered by trained field technicians. $5.95 Earrings charts. The U.S. Geological Survey pub- Earrings "X Kit with "A topographic map is one that gives an lishes an index map for each state and ter- large— instruc- expression of the land surface," it explains. with S/S tions to ritory in the United States showing the earwires W,§A • make The most easily understandable type of name, area covered, and date of survey of $3.95 & $4.50 topographic map is a relief model molded every map that is available through the Sur- in plaster. Such a model, however, is not Allen's wonder cement with thinner $1.00 vey. Most of the quadrangle maps may be Add 20% Excise Tax—Catalog 25c only expensive, but it cannot be easily purchased from the U.S. Geological Survey ALLEN LAPIDARY EQUIPMENT CO. moved. Dept. D 3632 \V. Slauson Ave. for 20 cents each, although some of the Los Angeles, California Some means therefore had to be devel- special maps are priced differently. Maps oped to express topography on a sheet of and indexes of areas west of the Mississippi paper which could be printed and distributed River may be ordered from: U. S. Geo- to thousands of people. Symbols such as shading, hachure and contour lines were logical Survey, Washington 25, D.C. A J/nctbn. DIAMOND BLADES developed to indicate relief maps. Contours free descriptive folder on topographic maps and the symbols used on them is also avail- are the most commonly used because of the ItavyJIiity y able from either of these offices.—Mineral aS"k (L'H accuracy with which the elevation of any Information Service. 6" $ $ 9.03 $ 7.98 point in the mapped area may be determined. 8" 11.50 10.44 A contour is an imaginary line on the 10" 15.23 14.02 12" 22.26 18.53 ground, which is always at the same eleva- 14" 29.40 25.67 tion above sea level. The shore-line of a STERLING SILVER 16" 32.76 2

OCTOBER, 1953 39 . . , . The Book You've Been Waiting For!

KfrATA INMAN mm MINE? SI JURIED TREASURES THE OLD

You've read John Mitchell's lost mine tales in Desert Magazine, and a few of you have been lucky enough to see his now-rare first edition, long out of print.

HERE IS A GREATLY EXPANDED SECOND ! || T HAS LONG BEEN rumored among the Indians EDITION, including more than 50 of these stories J and Hispano-Americanos that the Jesuits discovered which have become Southwest legends. Each is P—' and for a time worked a rich silver vein in the western illustrated with a map of the area in which the foothills of the rugged San Cayetano mountains about three lost mine or treasure is reputed to lie. 240 pages, miles southeast of the ancient ruins of San Cayetano de Tuma- endmaps, hard cover, index. 18 halftone illustra- cacori mission, near Tubac, Santa Cruz county, Arizona. The rich ore was said to have been mined and carried to tions by John D. Hansen. Maps by Margaret the adobe furnace on the backs of Pima, Papago and Opata Gerke. neophytes. All mining ceased in 1772 when the mission was suddenly raided by a band of Apache warriors, and for many years thereafter the old building lay in ruins. The mine lay idle for 142 years, or until 1914, when it was discovered and worked on a small scale by an old Opata Indian —225— One page from this fascinating 240-page book. Fifty maps show approximate locations of the lost mines described in the text. If you dream of finding lost riches, here are the clues you'll need. We'll not guarantee you'll suc- ceed—in fact, considering past failures, we'll be mighty surprised if you do—but we will guarantee adventure and fun in the clean fresh air of the desert Southwest. And, who knows . . . may ttni&e $5.00 Postpaid (publication date around November 15) Special Pre-Publication Price $4.50 (if your order is postmarked no later than November 15) *De&ent Palm Desert, California

40 DESERT MAGAZINE well told in Land of Room Enough and Time Enough recently completed by Richard E. Klinck. The author, in sim- BOOKS^'SOUWMST ple prose that every layman can under- stand, gives a brief history of the geo- EXPLORING THE GHOST Mrs. Woole set a tremendous goal logical formation of the valley, dating TOWNS OF THE WEST for herself in the writing of this book; back perhaps 25 million years. Then and she has done the task well. The came the first human beings, prehis- For three years Muriel Sibell Wolle, toric men who probably came to art teacher at the University of Colo- Bonanza Trail not only is a very read- America by way of Bering Strait and rado, trekked over the West gathering able book, but it is an important con- the stories of old-timers, doing re- tribution to American history. lived in caves and pithouses. search in public and private libraries, Published by Indiana University The present day interest in Monu- and making sketches—and then she Press. 510 pp, sketches, maps, glos- ment Valley begins with the arrival wrote The Bonanza Trail. It is the sary, bibliography and index. $8.50. of the Wetherill and Wade families, most complete record yet published • • e and later Harry and Mike Goulding of the ghost towns and mining camps OF BADMEN AND GOOD. —and the story of the migration of of western United States. THE TOUGHEST OF THEM ALL these families to the area and of their Ghost towns have been a hobby There is a saying in the Old West dealings with old Hoskininni the Nav- of Mrs. Wolle for many years. Three that "God made big men and little ajo leader, is a vivid portrayal of one years ago she wrote Stampede to Tim- men, but Mr. Colt made eveners." Of of the most interesting chapters in the berline covering the ghost camps in the men who carried Mr. Colt's "even- history of the West. Colorado and this book is now in its ers," some were good and some bad. This is a small book of high quality, fifth printing. But all were tough, hard men of an beautifully illustrated with both black The new volume includes more than era that itself was tough as a boot. and white halftones and photographs 200 old mining towns and camps in There was Frank Eaton — "Pistol in full color. Arizona, California, Colorado, Idaho, Pete"—who for ten hate-filled years Published by the University of New Montana, Nevada, New Mexico, Ore- tracked down and killed his father's Mexico Press. 136 pp. Bibliography gon, South Dakota, Utah, Washington murderers. There was gun-lawyer and index. $6.00. and Wyoming. Accompanying the text Temple Houston, who didn't hesitate are maps showing the location by to shoot a jury out of its box to win a INDIANS CONTRIBUTED MUCH states of each of the camps, and de- verdict; Cherokee Bill, perhaps the TO BOOK ON OUTDOOR LORE lightful pencil sketches of the old most ferocious of all the border bad- buildings and Main streets in varying men; and Vampire Kate Bender whose For those whose vacation trails fol- stages of disintegration. half-wit brother systematically ham- low little-traveled dirt roads to se- All the well known towns are in- mered to death the men she lured to cluded desert campsites, Ellsworth cluded —• Tombstone, Virginia City, their wayside inn. Jaeger's Woodsmoke is a valuable handbook. Deadwood, Cripple Creek, Coeur These are the actors in an exciting d'Alene, Silver Reed, Mogollon, Ton- drama unfolded by Glenn Shirley in "The book of outdoor lore," Wood- opah, the Mother Lode, and there are the new book, Toughest of Them All— smoke shows step by step with scores of abandoned camps of which "not the Hickoks or the Earps or the sketches and diagrams and a concise the average person has never heard. Jameses, but the little people, forgotten text, useful crafts and camping skills. Of the old La Paz diggings along or overshadowed by the others, who Its pages are full of shortcuts, tips and the Colorado River north of Ehren- may have been, actually, the toughest sound advice on all phases of outdoor berg, of which no vestige remains to- of them all." living. Sections cover shelter and equipment; stalking, luring and calling day, she wrote: "During the seven Shirley's stories are based on court years that La Paz nourished, both as animals and gamebirds; fishing; the records, newspapers, books and per- building, use and care of fires; cook- a gold center and as a river port, $8,- sonal interviews with old-timers closely 000,000 was washed from its sands ing over a campfire, emergency medi- connected with the people and events cinal aids and such lore as how to and many large 'Chispas' or nuggets, described. The tales are real, vivid were found in the bateas with which tell the temperature without a ther- and highly seasoned with the rip-roar- mometer, how to judge the height of the miners washed the gravels. . . . ing zest of the Western frontier. Then during the spring rise in 1870, trees without a measuring tool and Published by the University of New how to prevent cooking utensils from the river cut a new channel and left Mexico Press. 145 pages, index. $3.50. La Paz a mile inland. It was ruined becoming sooty over an open fire. as a port, and, since the placers were STORY OF MONUMENT VALLEY The Indians — both Southwestern about worked out, La Paz began to FULL OF HUMAN INTEREST and Eastern tribes — taught Jaeger fade." Perhaps some day Monument Val- much of his outdoor knowledge. From An unusually complete history of ley, that fantastic land of spires and them he learned ingenious ways of the old Calico workings is given in buttes and Navajo hogans on the Ari- making herb medicines, luring animals, the five pages devoted to one of Cali- zona-Utah border, will become a Na- calling birds, constructing various types fornia's best known ghost towns. This tional Park. There are many who of utility shelters, smoking meat and is also true of Panamint City, Bodie would like to see it given Park status. making mittens, yucca shampoo, cat- and other California ghost camps. But in the meantime it remains one tail mattresses and handy burden car- The Bonanza Trail rediscovers of the West's most fascinating regions, riers. scores of towns, explores their past and geographically, historically and from Almost 130 full-page drawings by celebrates their present, tells of lucky the standpoint of human interest—a the author clearly illustrate directions strikes and sudden ruin, of Indians, place that attracts many venturesome in the text. Indian folklore and anec- road agents and vigilantes—and of the American motorists despite its uncer- dotes enliven the book. final transition of the camp to a thriv- tain roads. Published by The Macmillan Com- ing city or a mere name on the map. The story of Monument Valley is pany, New York. 228 pages. $2.95.

OCTOBER, 1953 41 ween If on an

*s*< IT"" By RANDALL HENDERSON viewpoint—but we are not talking about Christianity, but HIS YEAR I arranged to include both the Smoki about primitive religions. snake dance at Prescott, Arizona, and the Hopi * * * 7 snake dance at Walpi on the First Mesa of the Hopi Later in August, Cyria and I sat on a housetop at reservation in my summer vacation schedule. Walpi on the Hopi First Mesa and witnessed the Hopi For the information of those who have not witnessed snake dance. This year there was injected into the Hopi these strange ceremonials, it should be explained that the ceremonial an element which I felt detracted greatly from Hopi dances are part of an ancient religious tradition its religious tone. To make clear just what happened I which the clansmen of the Hopi tribe hold every year in must go back to a rather significant movement now under- August. At one stage of the 9-day ritual they dance in way among nearly all the Indian tribesmen in the South- public with snakes in their mouths. They regard the west. snakes as their "little brothers" and the role of the reptiles In 1946 Congress enacted a law granting to the In- is to convey to the gods the Hopi prayer for rain. dian tribes the privilege of bringing suit against the United The Smoki dances have been held annually for 33 States government for settlement of any claims they might years. The Smoki are white Americans—business and have for past seizures of land, or for other economic in- professional men of Prescott who are members of a secret justices. organization pledged to perpetuate some of the traditional The Utes of the Ouray Uintah reservation in Utah Indian dances of the Southwest. Their dance program, were among the first to take advantage of this new law. staged under the stars one August night each year, is a The tribal council employed a firm of Salt Lake attorneys composite of several of the tribal ceremonials of the and asked federal compensation for a huge area of land, Southwestern Indians. This year the program included mostly in Colorado, which they claimed had been the the Thanksgiving Festival dance of the Zunis, the Buffalo tribal home and hunting grounds of their ancestors. In dance of the Tesuques, a Katchina and a Snake dance of September, 1951, the federal court awarded them a $31,- the Hopis, and a dramatic Drum dance evolved from 460,216 judgment against the federal treasury as com- the ancient rites of several of the desert tribes. pensation for 11,720,000 acres. The program is in no sense a burlesque. Magnificently This court award brought an immediate reaction staged in authentic native costumes the players go through among the Southwestern Indians. Those tribal councils the roles they have rehearsed for many weeks with all the which had not already employed white attorneys to rep- solemnity of a tribal priest. resent them, began preparations for suits similar to that I have witnessed both the Hopi and the Smoki dances which had been so successful for the Utes. in previous years, but I wanted to see them again because Today scores of field parties operating under the some of the Hopi clansmen have been quoted in the news direction of attorneys and archeologists employed by the dispatches as accusing the Smoki people of holding a cere- various tribal councils are scouring the Southwest in mony which is a mockery of their religion. I have felt search for ancestral artifacts and other evidence to sup- this was an unfair accusation, but 1 wanted to see if the port claims for compensation for land areas far beyond character of either of the ceremonials has been changed the limits of the existing reservations. The Navajos, the since I last saw them. Papagos and the Hopis are among the tribes which will * * * seek redress from the federal government. This year, as in previous years, I was deeply impressed Perhaps these claims are just. I do not know. The by the Smoki dances. The preservation of the native dances courts will decide that. But I must confess that I felt a is a worthwhile project, and I would be very reluctant to bit let down when Hopi spokesmen and their attorney condemn the men of Prescott for giving so generously of spent 45 minutes preceding the dances haranguing the their time to a project which has never yielded a penny of crowd in behalf of the claim they expect to file against profit to themselves. Uncle Sam. It was their privilege to do so, of course. But Actually many of the Indian tribesmen in recent years they want their snake dance to be regarded as a religious have been commercializing their own dances. Nor do I ceremony—and if they chose to make it an occasion for feel critical about that, for most primitive religions are propaganda, then their accusation that the Smoki dance based primarily on economic need—the need for fertile is a "mockery of their religion" cannot be given much seed, for sunshine and rainfall to make the crops grow, sympathy. for success in the hunt, for protection against raiders and Perhaps after all, the Smoki people of Prescott are other enemies. And if these religious dances can be made rendering an important service both to the Indians and to yield an economic return in other directions I see noth- to the white men in preserving the Indian tribal dances ing inconsistent about that. Christianity has a different without taint of profit to themselves.

42 DESERT MAGAZINE GHOST T0WH

1

CALIFORNIA • AT HOW'S BERRY FARM Buena Park, California History lessons learned many years ago i about the discovery of gold in California, will come to life before your very eyes in this re-created Ghost Town.

Visit it whenever you are in the vicinity of Los Angeles. Walk down the narrow, crooked Si streets such as the early pioneers trod. See Panning real gold at the Gold Mine the hangman's tree where early day mis- Most astonishing of all you can pan real gold at the Gold creants met their fate, sit on the Hotel steps Mine. Take wha:t you get home with you as a souvenir to with the two old timers who still linger in its show your friends. The old bearded miners and prospectors shadows. You may pump the old village will chat with you and tell you about the hardship of the pioneers who crossed the pump, have your picture taken in the old plains in covered wagons, fashioned setting at the "Pitchur Gallery, Indians lurking behind every rock and bush. See it all at watch the glass blower at work, buy old the Covered Wagon Show fashioned licorice whips at the General Mer- where you can witness these chandise Store. You can take a ride on the hardships so vividly por- trayed that you will never old narrow gauge railroad, or in a stage forget them. coach or covered wagon. The Litte Red |ll|||i|! Schoolhouse

Main Street in Ghost Town The little red school house will bring back nostalgic memories, or show you how your forebears learned the 3 Rs. The sweet little school teacher will be glad to tell you all about this old school- house, and show you the little blue-backed spellers and readers.

CHICKEN DINNERS STEAK DINNERS 12 to 8:30 p.m. 12 to 8:30 p.m. Except Mon. & Tues. Except Fridays

GHOST TOWN IS OPEN DAILY 12 to 9 p.m.

OCTOBER, 1953 43 GREAT NEWS FOR YOU-IF YOUR CAR IS NEW, OR YOUR ENGINE IN GOOD CONDITION

NEW ROYAL TRITON 5-20 Keeps That New Car Feel for Thousands of Extra Miles- Even Cuts Gasoline Consumption!

BETTER LUBRICATION —FASTER! Even in a stone-cold engine, Royal Triton 5-20 Hows at the touch of the starter. Yet il also protects better at high engine temperatures. Summer and winter this one oil covers the range from Grade 20 through Grade 5. LESS KNOCK! Royal Triton 5-20 avoids build-up of deposits in cylinder heads—a reason why new engines begin to knock after about ten thousand miles. With a top-quality gasoline like 7600, you get smooth, knockless performance indefinitely.

GREATER GASOLINE MILEAGE! Royal Triton 5-20 cuts down "engine drag'- delivers increased gasoline mileage — enough to par for its small extra cost! SPECIALLY RECOMMENDED lor new engines and those in good condition. You can use this super oil if your car now operates satisfactorily on an oil of Grade SAE 20 or lighter. Royal Triton 5-20 is not recommended for engines with worn parts such as rings, bearings and oil seals. UNION OIL COMPANY

OF CALIFORNIA

A FLEETof car? with modern,high-compression, KNOCKLESS POWER from high-compression ONE EQUALS FOUR! This one grade of oil overhead valve engines tested Royal Triton engines depends on keeping cylinder heads replaces four conventional grades — 20, 20W, 5-20. After thousands of miles of city and free of deposits that build up. Royal Triton 10W and 5W. Jf your car now operates satis- country driving — engine parts showed so 5-20 avoids build-up, minimizes engine knock. factorily on SAE 20 oil, you can use Royal little wear that engineers called it negligible! Many new car dealers put Royal Triton 5-20 Triton 5-20 — winter, summer in any climate Royal Triton 5-20 lengthens the life of mod- in new cars they deliver ! from zero cold to desert heat. And you can ern engines fur untold thousands of miles! expect greater gasoline mileage as a bonus!