Volume 10, NO. 2 Guarding your interests.. . SPRING 2002 The DOG'S Dictionary (another Devil's Dictionary?). about. The exact conditions of manufacture, materials and use The following was received from (and discussed with) Tom are not re-creatable. The issue of whether authenticity is an Shaw, friend, subscriber, historical site manager and fellow absolute is therefore moot. Accuracy exists on a sliding scale historical role-player. [I] His thoughts on correct terminology from an item which is absolutely the same as a period item are worth noting. Some of what he discusses has been applied except that it is new-made to something which bears no to my personal editorial lexicon, i.e., "enactor" instead of "re- resemblance to an original. One has all sorts of choices to make enactor" and "accuracy" instead of "authenticity." I thought it along this continuum. Is it, for example, more important to have was time to share one of the sources of my thinking behind this a garment made from the most accurate cloth available with as well as open the windows in the office and see what other period tailoring or do you really need to have all the construction words blow in or out. A common understanding of the words details true to the period? An accuracy rating scale for goods we use can only bolster a cooperative spirit among us. might be something you the DOG should consider. [ARF!] A nineteenth-century connection is always appropriate and Accuracy is what we strive for. In some cases absolute so I offer Ambrose Bierce's The Devil's Dictionary [z] as a model. accuracy is not possible. There are artisans who really seem to While I can not claim even a whit of his skill as a writer, I have strive for accuracy. That is great for some things but what about enjoyed the sardonic humor found in this Civil War veteran's the huge mass of Civil War stuff that was produced in the word definitions (as well as his great stories). You may want to thousands? I really admire people who try to mass-produce know that the Watchdog office dictionary is a facsimile edition things. Just think about all the stuff carried on Arabia and of the Noah Webster's American Dictionary of the English Bertrand. Sure, one can crank out good flannel shirts, for Language first published in 1828. [3] example, but making twelve a year is a whole lot different than Here are Tom's thoughts on correct terminology: making 1,000,000 dozen a year. We should give ourselves a break and strive without getting I have read other's articles on authenticity with great hung up on the possibility of being just like an original. interest, but I am of the opinion that most discussion is Sometimes you can and sometimes you cannot. There are some fundamentally flawed. The basic trouble is with the word fabulously accurate things made now that could not have been authentic. Oh, sure, we all know what is means (Nick Nichols made a few years ago because of the availability of a material went to great pains to cut the bread into nice pieces in the (Russia sheeting for example) WINTER 2001 issue), but the word itself is just plain wrong. Let's use the proper words. If the hobby wants professional Authentic means original or genuine (have a look at the respect, we have to be clear about what we are doing. A first OED). [4] The term authentic reproduction only has meaning step in that direction would be to jettison words like authentic, insofar as the reproduction is just that, a reproduction. It is reenactment and living historian (what the heck does that mean what it is. The argument about whether a reproduction item is anyway? A historian who is not dead? Stephen Ambrose is a authentic is pointless. It is a reproduction and not of the period. living historian and Barbara Tuchman is not) The DOG would You might want to examine some work Saundra Altman and render the most important service of its life by helping to get Rob Stone did a few years ago for MOMCC about the definitions the words right. surrounding new-made goods that are supposed to appear as Here are three definitions [5] to ponder when using the terms though they were from a period in the past. We cannot be "accurate reproduction" for "authentic reproduction" and authentic because it is physically impossible. The same is true "authentic original" as opposed to an "authentic reproduction." of the term reenactor. It is impossible to recreate anything because the past is dead and gone. It is possible to enact, that is, AUTHENTIC -Of approved authority; to be relied on bring life to, something. Why set everyone up for failure? SYN. -True; certain; faithful; credible; reliable; genuine.Authentic and genuine were once used as convertible terms, but a distinction is I have long used the term accurate and have tried without now [in 18671 made between them, the former being opposed to false, success to get others to adopt it. The question about whether an and the later to spurious, as in an authentic history, a genuine item or a person or a site is accurate is really what we are all manuscript.

the New, ACCURATE - In careful conformity to the truth, or to a standard or a rule and a noted short story writer. The DeviLS Dictionagl was published in installments SYN. - Correct; precise; just; nice -A man is accurate or correct in various periodicals from 1881 until 1906. It was published in book form in when he avoids faults; exact when he attends to all the minutiae, leaving 1911 in The Collected Works ofAmbrose Bierce. Several vears after that Bierce nothing neg1ected;precise when he does any thing according to a certain ventured into Mexico and its ongoing revolution. He disappeared around 1914 and rule or measure. his fate may have been predicted in a note to friends: "Goodbye, if you hear of my REPRODUCTION - 1. Act of reproducing. 2. Thing produced. being stood up against a Mexican stone wall and shot to rags please know that I think it is a pretty good way to depart this life. It beats old age, disease or falling Thanks, Tom. Now comes the fun part as we (you, the staff down the cellar steps." One could imagine a similar fate befalling a writer venturing and I) get to create The DOG'S Dictionary. The first two entries down the streets of the field merchants and not using words that some of them want to hear. My copy of The Devil's Dictionary was published by Dover Publications, posted here as targets (or as straw men) are "the best available Inc., Mineola, New Yorkin 1993. solution" and "role-playing." Comprehending the level of [3] The facsimile edition is published by the Foundation for American Christian historical accuracy and a word describing members of our Education, PO Box 9588, Chesapeake, VA 23321 and www.face.net. My copy is community are two of the great bugaboos that have perplexed the fifth edition published in 1987. The dictionary is an accurate hardcover reproduction. The price of volume was, if I recall, under fifty dollars at the time. us since the Civil War centennial. Perhaps some measure of [4] The Oxford English Dictionary. agreement of terminology might take the "boo" out of these [5] Webster, Noah, Webster's Dictionary of the English Language (William T. bugs and promote unity of purpose. Amies, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, G & C Merriam, Massachusetts, 1867). [6] The best study, which I have come across, of motivation and development in regard to historical role-playing is Stephen Eddy Snow's Perjorming the Pilgrims Best available, adjective phrase. A descriptive term used to (University of Mississippi Press, Jackson, Mississippi, 1993). Eddy analyzes the describe a reproduced object's construction accuracy in terms transition of historical interpretation at Plimoth Plantation in Massachusetts. what actually done in the middle of the nineteenth century compared with that available at present. An object is the best A Simple Plan. available solution if its construction uses as much of the same Five years ago, when I was first presented with the form of raw materials, as much of the same manufacturing opportunity to become the DOG'S new master, I thought that it processes and as much of the same assembly techniques as the would be somewhat easy every few months to pull together six original that are currently available or reproducible. While we to eight pages of notes about products from the field merchants. would like to know that the "best available" is a completely I assumed everyone (consumers and the merchants) would be accurate reproduction down to the same atomic structure in the eager to see this puppy grow. As I often have observed: no good material, the same material forming energy devices and the same deed goes unpunished (due to fate, our own missteps or best material reliability, we know it cannot be. Some semblance of intentions). As a result my five-year plan today is not the same sanity and reality must prevail upon us to consider the "best one I contemplated in 1997. available" to that which approaches a "clone" of an object to a The Watchdog Quarterly, Inc, has grown. i~ehave a great high level of reason (somewhere between seventy-five percent staff and several faithful contributors. Our subscribers and and ninety-nine and forty-four one hundredths of a percent). friends are a loyal bunch (several folks have so much confidence This frees us from the nit-picking business to the point that we in us that they have paid their subscriptions out to 2006 or 2007). waste time better spent on further research or just having fun. Financial contributions to battlefield preservation are modest, but have grown (I am considering Federal non-profit tax status). Role-playing, verb. Acting out. Civil War enactors (reenactors Plans for special publications are bearing fruit and several should and living historians) take on the roles of people living between see ink and paper by the end of the year (this should result in 1855 and 1870, by wearing and utilizing reproduction items of credit card processing for renewals also). I am still enthused, material culture. Interactions among the role-players can be but as my own life and family plans have changed (retirement structured around actual cultural and social models (military or and grandchildren) I want to better balance my time. This civilian) or they can be entirely "make believe" without basis in includes completion of several book projects of my own. historical fact or anthropological study. The motivations for this So, instead of finding a new master for the DOG (as I had role-playing include (but are not limited to) ancestor worship, mentally planned five years ago), I am looking for a pet- recreation (as opposed to re-creation) or diversion, patriotism, sitter.. .rather I am looking for someone to become the primary financial gain, ego satisfaction, historical curiosity, experimental editor. I will remain the publisher, business manager and final anthropology, nostalgia and escape from the constraints of the "say-so-er." Mrs. Kalil will remain as the Assistant Editor and present day. [6] most able publishing partner. My Associate Editors (who toil faithfully for the DOG with little recompense) have been offered Your own contributions and commentary of a lexicographical the editor's job, but they all have full personal and professional nature are encouraged platters. They will continue to support me while the search is on and will continue to support the new editor if someone steps NOTES: forward. The new editor will need the resources of a PC with [I] Tom G. Shaw is the Assistant Site Manager at Historic Fort SneUing in St. Paul, Minnesota. He and I have spent interesting moments "listening" to what original Wind0ws98~~.I will furnish the appropriate software and I will garments say to us, and shared a magic moment or two in the field as members of continue to be responsible for printing, mailing, finances and the First Minnesota, Company A and Westem Brigade field officers. subscriptions. As far you, our subscribers, are concerned, I will [2] Ambrose Bierce (1842-1914) was a lieutenant in the Ninth Indiana Infantry. still have my hand on the leash. Any volunteers? During the Atlanta Campaign he was a topographical officer on General William Hazen's staff. After the Civil War he became one of America's influentialjournalists Mr. Christen I 1 BOOK REVIEW AND COMMENTARY Ken Knopp's Confederate Saddles & Horse Equipment

There is no question that a serious, in-depth study of the unveiling of Ken Knopp's monograph. The advance Confederate horse equipments is long overdue, so the promotional broadside was enticing, if a tad heavy on hyperbole: progressive interpretive cavalry community eagerly anticipated Presenting... an exciting, ground breaking new Civil War title! ! ! ...the first scholarly and comprehensive study of the saddles and horse equipments manufactured and issued by the Southern Confederacy.. . IT'S ALL HERE!. ..the "real story" of Confederate saddle production.. . WITH.. .a full treatment of Confederate artillery saddles and harness, imported British saddlery, excavated relics and the supply of Southern leather and iron. FEATURING.. ,200 PAGES WITH 180 PHOTOS.. .and original artist renditions of long lost patterns!! A TEN YEAR RESEARCH EFFORT.. .Carefully researched, fully footnoted and documented from thousands of obscure primary sources and over 250 books and articles! The finest study of Confederate Ordnance and material culture history to come along in years!!! "A LANDMARK WORK DESTINED TO BECOME THE STANDARD REFERENCE."

We must confess that we're always a little leery of Crafting a high-quality material culture monograph is no unattributed quotations. mean feat, particularly for the lay historian. To his credit, Knopp We lodged multiple pre-publication requests for a review tackles this challenge head-on and in his initial two chapters copy, but to no avail. The author told us he had to "clear it with does a commendable job of providing cultural context to his the publisher," then the publisher told us they had to "clear it subject. The quality and accuracy of the material are very uneven with the author." Here at the Watchdog we are nothing if not for the remainder of the work, however. The book's overall tenacious, and we finally received our copy in mid-December format, too, is a bit disjointed and has the feel of a series of (four months after publication). By that time Confederate essays or magazine articles aimed at "buffs," rather than an in- Saddles & Horse Equipment had long since been reviewed in depth scholarly treatise. the North-South Trader S Civil War magazine-which happens For example, in the third chapter the author offers a to be a division of the same company that published the book. superficial overview of the Confederacy's attempts to procure The unidentified reviewer really loved it! He declared: "There saddlery abroad (two pages) followed by positively skeletal is no doubt that it will become the standard reference in the profiles of each item of equipment under consideration (four field, perhaps for all time." Consider the source. paragraphs are allocated to the description of British saddles). Right off the bat, we were surprised to read the author's The graphics for the eight-page chapter are equally meager and explanation of what prompted him to put pen to paper: "In the do not begin to adequately treat the subject (though the author summer of 1989, it struck me as rather peculiar that a book had later assures us in a footnote that "Dozens of pre-war paintings, not already been published on the subject of Confederate saddles saddlery advertisements and photos are clear evidence of the and horse equipment." Curiously, this statement ignores G.Craig strong influence of English equipment.. ."). This arcane subset Caba's, Historic Southern Saddles (1982), despite the fact that of Confederate saddlery is deserving of a thoroughgoing research HSS is included in the bibliography and its author is recognized effort, but the author opted to rely heavily on secondary sources in Knopp's Acknowledgements. Quaint as HSS may appear for the bulk of his background material and it shows. twenty years on; it was in fact the first attempt to address this Most troubling, Knopp begins to demonstrate a penchant void in the literature of Confederate artifacts and deserves to be for imaginative interpretation of the data: In a caption for a acknowledged as such. photo of a mounted Confederate officer, he conclusively states Material culture, a relatively new academic field, has been that the man "sits astride a British 1850s hussar's-pattern defined as: "The study through artifacts of the beliefs -values, saddle." Very little of the saddle is visible in the image and ideas, attitudes, and assumptions - of a particular community even if it could be identified as a hussar pattern, such saddle or society at a given time." [I] Clearly, while any meaningful types were also being produced in the US during the period, material culture study must delve into the "why and wherefore" rendering it impossible to ascertain the country of origin. He of the objects under scrutiny, reliable detailed physical profiles goes on to suggest that the horse's headgear "may possibly be of these objects coupled with a generous, carefully selected body an English halter-bridle." And then again, it may not. The of support graphics are equally critical to a well-balanced and British Universal Pattern halter-bridle, initially adopted in 1860, useful work. Further, a thorough bibliography is a must and is a very unique configuration that bears no resemblance footnotes should be plentiful and accurate. whatsoever to the one in the photo (though again, the halter- 3 THE WATCHDOG SPRING 2808 bridle combination in the image is indeed representative of a purchased, but were usually listed only as 'saddles,' with little style that was quite common in mid-nineteenth century indication of their appearance," fairly cry out for direct America). quotations to clarify and support the author's position. In another Since one of the author's stated objectives is to aid the reader instance, the reader is informed that Captain James Dinwiddie in the identification of various types of saddlery employed by "took strict control of saddle and equipment production, right the Confederate cavalryman, it is more than a little disconcerting down to the smallest details.. .No detail was too small to escape to see every horned saddle illustrated in the entire work referred his attention," yet no quotations relating these details are to as a "Texas" saddle. There were many popular horned saddles forthcoming. during the period under study that were decidedly not of the Without having the relevant primary passages to scrutinize, "Texas" variety (notwithstanding the author's i~nsubstantiated the reader must assume that the author's reporting of historical assertion that "the terms 'Texas' or 'Mexican' saddle tend to be details is accurate, but, regrettably, such is not always the case. the generic names given by contemporary non-Texans to any In one instance, we are informed that the Federal McClellan horned saddles"). This gross generalization is factually equipments were "officially approved in January 1859," when inaccurate and creates a skewed perception of the importance the correct date is actually many months later. To further of the actual Texas-type saddle in the Confederate service. compound the problem, when we checked the reference cited in Despite a nolo contendre disclaimer in the Preface.. . the footnote, we discovered that there was no mention of the date upon which the McClellan was approved whatsoever. Such Few Southern arsenals or manufacturers marked their inaccuracies and/or incomplete details are inexcusable in a products, so that even "expert' attempts to identify a period but serious treatise such as this and often leave the reader with a otherwise nondescript saddle as Confederate can be difficult, if misperception of the actual circumstances. Further, they often not impossible. Both the subtleties of changing construction lead the author to arrive at very questionable conclusions. and the difficulty of detecting alterations made over time make The following passage is a good example. On its face this any firm identification of horse equipment speculative at best. passage seems reasonably straightforward and is not likely to be challenged by the average reader: .. .the reader is authoritatively informed that a very fine Jenifer saddle with ornamental stamping and floral tooling is a ...when it [the pre-war prototype Jenifer] went into "Richmond Arsenal product [that] was almost certainly made production at the Frankford Arsenal in Philadelphia, where at Clarksville." Several other saddles pictured herein are Ordnance Capt. Josiah Gorgas was temporarily in charge of definitively labeled as Richmond Arsenal products, though no overseeing its manufacture.. . evidence is proffered to substantiate this conclusion. Again, the .. .After a quick, though careful study, his superior, Maj. author himself cautions the reader in the Preface that martially Peter V. Hagner, wrote an astute letter of contrasting analysis, inspired saddles were extremely popular with civilians as well. deeming the supposed merits of the Jenifer as overstated and Indeed, these military knock-offs continued to be produced in costly, and bluntly submitting that 'the Board had been huge numbers and countless variations well past the turn of the misled ...Still, the 100 sets [of prototype equipments] were century, and more than a few have been misidentified as eventually manufactured and issued.. . "Confederate" over the years. If a study such as this one is to be While awaiting this outcome, Jenifer had applied for a taken seriously, artifacts labeled "Confederate" (never mind Federal patent, which was granted on June 26, 1860. "Richmond Arsenal") must bear very strong evidence of their Confederate lineage. In point of fact, the Frankford Arsenal produced no Jenifer We don't doubt that Knopp has done his homework. His equipments; the one hundred prototype sets were contracted bibliography attests to that, but his prose is conspicuously out to the Philadelphia firm of Knorr, Nece & Co. The agreement deficient of direct quotations from relevant primary documents. was inked on 25 June 1860, and the commander of the arsenal Instead, the reader is forced to rely on the author's at that time was Major Peter V. Hagner. Gorgas had not yet "interpretation" of these records in establishing his hypotheses. arrived on the scene. Later, Captain Gorgas was ordered to As Knopp has amassed literally thousands of pages of relieve Major Hagner as commander at the arsenal. Hagner was correspondence and related official documents, it would have not Gorgas' superior in this context, nor was Gorgas "in charge" been extremely useful to have liberally quoted from these data of the Jenifer project, temporarily or otherwise. As commander in his text. Allowing the participants to tell the story in their of the arsenal under whose auspices the prototypes were being own words would have added a much needed dose of veracity to manufactured, he was obliged to simply act as a facilitator for the narrative. Further, being able to assess the actual verbiage Lieutenant Jenifer. encourages intellectual discourse that leads to alternative The author also implies that Hagner's "astute letter of interpretations of the data, and that's a very healthy thing. contrasting analysis" was drafted after construction of the Finally, there are several key documents relating to the nature prototypes was under way, when in fact it was submitted a month of Confederate saddlery that warranted inclusion in their entirety. prior (25 May 1860). The author's synoptic narrative style is often ambiguous A bit of background will help put the Hagner report in its and confusing. Contradictory statements such as, "The proper context: Major Hagner had been a member of the Board Richmond Arsenal's contracts suggest a variety of patterns were that was responsible for the adoption of the McClellan I equipments and had authored modifications that were in fact photos were very low quality images to begin with. Their incorporated into the final configuration. He therefore reproduction here is so washed out that one would have to be understandably harbored a very personal attachment to the virtually clairvoyant to discern the featuresldetails singled out McClellan. He was not assigned to the Jenifer evaluatior. Board by the author in the captions. At least one photograph suffers however, and when he was advised that the prototype Jenifers from the jagged, mosaic tile effect produced by a low-resolution were to be manufactured in his jurisdiction, he queried his boss scan. Still, the author suggests that the subject of this ambrotype to determine how much "discretion" he might exercise in (an unidentified gent who might well not even be a soldier) is establishing the configuration of the prototype equipments. riding "what is likely a McClellan saddle." This tentative Colonel H.K. Craig, Chief of Ordnance, responded by providing identification is a real stretch. For the most part, the inclusion him with a copy of the proceedings of the Board "with of these images was a waste of space. endorsements thereon" and a complete transcript of the findings The absence of photo credits is a very serious omission, and recommendation of the Board, stating unequivocally: "I indeed. desire you to conform, in all respects, to the approval of the The line art is amateurish and inaccurate in many details. Secretary of War, unless some changes shall be authorized by And while we are discussing production values, we should him." Stung by this set-down, Hagner sought some legitimate point out that the footnotes for Chapter 10 are absent altogether. form of rebuttal and opted to interpret Craig's closing comment Such staggering oversights do not imbue one with confidence as indirectly sanctioning the cost-benefit analysis he in the overall quality and reliability of the work, nor do they subsequently submitted. He was simply trying to save face help justify the nearly forty dollar price tag. without crossing the line into insubordination. Craig's rejoinder Some progressive cavalry reenactors have peremptorily to this unsolicited report expresses the Ordnance Chief's embraced this work with a religious fervor, heralding it as "the exasperation with Hagner and clearly spells out the nominal bible of Confederate cavalry equipments." Further, several role he expected the Frankford Arsenal commander to play in makers of reproduction horse equipments have already begun the Jenifer project: to chum out "documented" Confederate offerings based on the fragmentary descriptions and fanciful "artist's impressions" Referring to the instructions heretofore given to you under presented in this book. This kind of mindless adherence to poorly the orders of the War Department of a pattern [of crafted historiography will likely serve as the springboard for a saddle]. . .recommended for trial by a Board of Officers.. .in new reenactor mythology that will take years to undo. As one consequence of the difficulty of reconciling apparent historian noted, "In the hands of the unsophisticated, or of True discrepancies and for the purpose of carrying out the views of Believers who would wish to reshape the past for their own the Board, as approved by the Secretary of War, with as little purposes, historical relativism is a dangerous weapon." [21 delay as possible, you will please obtain an interview with Lt. In the final analysis, Ken Knopp deserves kudos for taking Jenifer, and after consultation with him, proceed to have the on such a monumental task; we feel he is sincere in his efforts Equipments made as soon as practicable, taking care not to allow and his prodigious research has been truly exemplary. But as the cost to exceed the contract price of the regulation pattern we stated earlier, there is a great deal more to a useful material [McClellan]. Where the views of Lieutenant Jenifer do not culture reference work than an impressive bibliography. The conflict with the recommendations of the Board, it will be bottom line is that while there is undoubtedly some very good advisable to carry them out. information between these covers, only a deeply knowledgeable and conscientious reader will be able to separate the wheat from Finally, the inference that Jenifer filed his patent application the chaff. This book is hamstrung by factual errors, a glaring afer the prototype saddles had gone into production is fallacious; lack of direct quotations, an insufficient graphics package and he had initiated the process on 25 May, coincidentally, the very poor production values-all of which conspire to render the same day Hagner submitted his pithy report to Colonel Craig. author's analysis and interpretation of the data suspect. In The author's mangling of the facts prompted him to give concept, Confederate Saddles & Horse Equipment promises a Hagner's comments far greater weight than they deserved and great deal, but in execution it just does not deliver. led him to the spurious conclusion that the Jenifer saddle was a flawed design that "slipped through the cracks." Confederate Saddles & Horse Equipment, Ken R. Knopp, The graphics support for the book, too, is disappointing. Publisher's Press, Inc., Orange, Virginia, 2001, hard cover with The artifact photos are inadequate in number: We would at least dust cover, $39.95. like to see three good, clear photos (front, back and profile) of Nick Nichols representative examples of the most significant saddle types. NOTES: Some macro close-ups of key features would be nice as well. In [I] Jules David Prom, "Mind in Matter: An Introductionto Material Culture Theoly several instances, the Confederate provenance of the artifacts and Method" in Material Life in America 1600-1860, Robert Blair St. Gwrge, editor, (Boston: Northeastern University Press, Boston, Massachusetts, 1988), illustrated is dubious. More appropriate examples of some items pagel8. (better condition, more complete, etc.) would not have been [2] C. Vann Woodward, "On Believing What One Reads: The Dangers of Popular difficult to track down for photographing. Revisionism," in The Historian as Detective, Robin W. Winks, editor, (Harper & The photos of mounted Confederates, while fascinating due Row, New York, New York, 1968,1969). page 24. to their rarity, offer little to illuminate the text. Most of these LOOKING AT ORIGINALS Ready-made "Blockade Run" Trowsers?

Family lore is a double edged sword. It can clarify or confuse button placket for the fly buttons. The edge of the right side of the provenance of an item. One thing is certain, family lore is the fly opening is double machine stitched and the buttons ingrained in the very fabric of the Family itself and often no applied directly on the edge of the fabric, which would cause a contrary evidence will alter cherished and time-tested memories. gather when closed. The remaining buttons are bone. Most of With this in mind I was fortunate enough to view a pair of the interior material is left raw edged. The pockets themselves trowsers and a Hickory shirt that belongs to the family of Mr. are left raw edge. There are darts at the back of the trousers. Neal McKee. Mr. McKee's great-great-grandfather, Samuel The cuff, buttonholes and interior waistband work is by hand. Wilson, fought in the Sixth Alabama Infantry, Company C. Mr. Unusual! McKee brought these items to Confederate Memorial Park, in Les Jensen, who was with me when I viewed these trowsers, Maubry, Alabama, to allow both Bill Rambo and me the feels as I do... the quick construction methods of this garment opportunity to get a close up view of a portion of his family "scream" ready-made and could possibly be blockade run. There heritage. Fortunately for all concerned Les Jensen was also at is nothing overtly suggesting a latter date for the garment. the park viewing other garments. His insight and opinions were Of course these preliminary conclusions are without any very helpful. basis in documented fact and are speculation on my part. I still thought these trowsers of interest to view as a possible "Blockade The Family Lore: Run" example, and there are very few existing, which would Mr. McKee's great-great-grandfatherwas remembered as help form a larger overall picture of the variety of clothes a big man who was tough as nails. Sam Wilson was wounded available to the Confederate soldier. severely at the battle of Gettysburg. He spent several months in Mr. McCulloh n Confederate hospital recuperating. His injuries were so severe Nm that he was discharged. At his discharge he was issued the [I]The Sixth Alabama was in O'Neal's Brigade (Rodes Division) during the battle trowsers and shirt. He walked home to Alabama. The family of Gettysburg. The regiment had a strength of between 406 and 382 officers and men [Busey and Martin. Regimental Strengths at Gettysburg, Gateway Press, reveres these relics as a link to an honored past. Baltimore, Maryland, 19821. Wilson may have been one of the 162 casualties suffered by the regiment on the afternoon of 1July 1863. The regiment (along with The Records: other portions of O'Neal's brigade) attacked Federal troops of the Eleventh Corps Samuel Wilson is listed as a Private in the Sixth Alabama, during the aftemoon general assault by the Confederate Second Corps. This attack occwed near the McLean fmalong the Mummasburg Road north of town [Wcial Company C. 111 He was thirty-three years old, six foot, three Records of the War of Rebellion, Volume XXVII, Part 2, Report No. 528 (Captain inches tall and of dark complexion. His enlistment papers show M.L. Bowie, Sixth Alabama Infantry)]. him to have gray eyes and dark hair. Wilson is listed as discharged on 6 August 1863, but still in the Richmond Wayside Hospital-General Hospital #8 on 10 October 1863. His final pay voucher, dated 10 October 1863, shows:

From May 1863 To 6 Aug. 1863 pay 35.20 Rem. Clothing 117.52

147.72 Deduct for clothing assistance 29.30

$118.22

The Trowsers Themselves: The trowsers are a thirty-eight inch waist and long in length (remember he was over six feet tall). These trowsers are of tightly woven (canvas like) wooYcotton jean. This is similar to jeans FIG 1. Detail of Trowser Cuff. found on several of the jackets at Confederate Memorial Hall. The fabric appears to be over dyed walnut brown. The garment has extensive machine sewing. They have no split at the back of the waistband; the waistband is standard construction with The photographs accompanying this article show various views the interior facing folded and whip stitched down. The trowsers of the Wilson trowsers. They are published with permission of have slash type pockets similar to modern jeans. There is no Charles McCulloh and the Confederate Memorial Park.

J..T=J,E .

PRODUCT REVIEW FOLLOW-UP More on Sam Doolin's Wooden Canteens

Sam Doolin is producing a wood canteen that is a spot-on strap material to suit your impression. reproduction of the canteens that I have examined in the Sam makes the canteens out of three types of wood cedar, Alabama Department of History and Archives collection in the willow and cherry. He is currently supplying S&S Sutler of Montgomery, Alabama archives [see our WINTER 2000 (8.1) Gettysburg with these and the price will be about seventy-five and SPRING 2001 (9.2) issues]. He has the dimensions and dollars. I have included several photos for examination. construction replicated in every way. The canteens themselves Mr. McCulloh are some of the best reproductions of the originals I have seen. The stopper is a turned piece that is functional, but has no historic S & S Sutler, Tim & Debbie Sheads, PO Box 218, Bendersville, documentation as no originals in that configuration are known. PA 17306 and (717) 338-1990 and [email protected] and The canteen Sam sent me for review had a leather stopper www.ss-sutler.com attachment string. The ADHA canteens have no stoppers. A web cotton sling is provided by Sam, but the ADHA canteens Wooded Hamlet Designs, Mary & Kenneth Wagner 4044 also have no slings. Coseytown Road, Greencastle, PA 17225 and (717) 597-1782 I removed the leather stopper string and replaced it with a and [email protected] and www.woodedhamlet.com length of Wooded Hamlet linen string. Then added a leather Federal strap. I used it for the entire weekend at an event and it held up very well. I highly recommend this product. You may want to do research and modify the stopper configuration and

THE DOGCATCHER ADVANCE NOTICE: ARTIFACT FORUM 2002

The Dogcatcher is seeking information on the state of The Watchdog is pleased to support the second annual Civil commerce with merchant, Bob Neikirk at 21 1 Spice Cove, Bulls War Artifact Forum. The location for the 2002 event is Gap, Tennesee 3771 1 and [email protected]. We have Charleston, South Carolina. The dates are 1-3 November 2002. received reports of undelivered goods based orders taken well The forum agenda will include lectures on civilian and military over a year ago. Based on the number of reports the DOG advises artifacts, displays of original artifacts. Attendees will include a that "the buyer should be well aware" at this point in any number of the subject matter experts. This year's activities will dealings. Please send all information to the attention of the include tours of historic sites in Charleston as well as behind- publisher. I will publish on update in the next issue and on the the-scenes museum tours. web site. Mr. Christen Advance information about this year's forum can be found at by contacting [email protected] or on-line at www.artifactforum.com. Weaves 101

[Editor's Note: This is the first of a series of articles from 2. Pile Weaves: Associate Editor, Jomarie Soszynski, on one of her favorite a. Velvet topics.. .textiles.] b. Velveteen c. Corduroy One of things that I have noticed in this hobby is some d. Teny confusion on the characteristics of certain fabrics. The confusion does not extend to what fibers are used to make a fabric. After 3. Woven Designs: all there was only wool, cotton, silk and linen. There is an a. Dobby Pattern, understanding that some fabrics were a combination of fibers b. Jacquard includes damask, tapestry, brocade and that this can have an effect on the fabric's surface. However, c. Clip-spot includes Dotted Swiss and shirting fabrics there seems to be less understanding on how weaves influence the surface quality of a fabric. For example, barege is a dress Plain weave (see FIG 1) is the simplest of the three and the material with a worsted (wool) warp and a silk weft or filling most common. It can be found in light fabrics such as lawns to yarn. Bombazine on the other hand has a silk warp and a wool heavy ones such as a tightly woven wool melton. As we shall weft. I understand the warps and filling yarns are reversed, but see in later articles, there are a variety of twill and satin weaves, would that be enough to make an obvious difference in their but there is only one plain weave. Even the basket weave, which appearances? Probably not. There is however, a big difference uses two or more warp yarns and an equal amount of filling in their weaves, which changes the surface quality of the fabric. yarns, is still a plain weave. Monks cloth is a basket weave. A Barege is a loose plain weave and bombazine is a twill weave. ribbed plain weave as seen in bengaline just utilizes a filling The following period advice on purchasing silk was yarn that is thicker than the warp. It too is a plain weave. intended to familiarize the consumer with terms known in the "Plain weave is the simplest weave in which each filling trade. I think familiarizing ourselves with trade terms on weaves yarn passes successively over and under each warp yarn to form is just as important. "...it is too much the custom of French an even surface.. ." [Picken, page 3721 That even surface also manufacturers and American clerks to bestow fancy names makes unprinted plain weaves reversible. The even surface (noms de circumstances) on any novel fabric or style, there are makes them amenable to printed and embossed designs. certain terms, universally known in the trade which every However, an even surface tends to wrinkle more and has little purchaser should be familiar." [Pullen, page 641 visual or tactile interest unless different colored yarns are used All fabrics start with a fiber, which is the smallest part of to produce a plaid, or as mentioned before, the fabric is printed. the fabric. Fiber sources can be either natural or man-made. Fibers are twisted into yarns and yarns are either knitted or woven into a fabric. There is an exception to a fabric being either knitted or woven and that is felt, not to be confused with wool that has been felted or fulled. Felt is the result of wool or other animal fibers becoming entangled when subjected to heat, moisture and agitation. What is a woven fabric? "A woven fabric is made by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles to each other. The lengthwise yarns are known as warp yarns or ends, while the width-wise yarns are known as filling yarns or picks." [Pizzuto, page 981 There are only three basic types of woven fabrics: plain, twill and satin. Other weaves will be a variation or combination of these three. There are also special weave fabrics, which include:

1. Leno Weaves: There are two warps yarns that are twisted back and forth forming a loop, which firmly holds the filling yarn. Grenadine and marquisette are examples of a leno weave. A great way to see a leno weave is to look at your next purchase of potatoes. If FIG 1. Schematic of a Plain Weave. they come in a large, open, mesh bag, that is a leno weave. Some common plain weave fabrics: Pizzuto, Joseph J., Fabric Science (Fourth Edition), revised by Arthur Price and Allen C. Cohen, Fairchild Publications, New York, 1980. Pullan, Marion M., Beadle's Dime Guide to Dress-Making and Millinery, reprinted Cambric [I] Jaconets Pongee by Sullivan Press, West Chester, Pennsylvania, 1998. Bengaline Lawn Sarcenet Broadcloth Muslin Tabby NOTE: While on the subject of cloth.. .the DOG highly recommends the following Brilliantine [2] Nainsook Tabinet from Sally Queen & Associates for your reference library: Calico Nankeen Taffeta Textilesfor Colonial Clothing, A Workbook of Swatches andlnfonnation by Sally Chambray Organdy Gros de Naples [3] Queen ($29.95) Delaine [2] Osnaburg Gros de Rhine [3] The book is a hands-on approach to textiles used in colonial clothing. It de-mystifies Gingham Poplin Gros de Tours [3] the basics of textiles and clothing of early Americans in a practical way. The modem textile samples give a feel to textiles in colonial America. This book is a guide to selecting fabric for reproduction period garments. [I] Batiste in French [2] Denotes fabrics that could also be of a twill weave Textilesfor Clothing in the New Republic, 1800-1850 by Lynne Zacek Bassett [3] (noms de circumstance of plain weave silks with a corded effect. ($34.95) Using nearly thirty swatches, this volume explains the improvements in textile So what influences the surface quality of a fabric most? technology at the beginning of the industrial revolution. It illustrates the fabrics The nom de circumstance? Not really. Is it the blend of fibers? used in clothing wom by the citizens of the brand new United States of America. Sometimes, but ultimately it is the weave that influences the surface quality the most. More to come! Textilesfor Early Victorian Clothing, 1850-1880 by Susan W. Greene ($37.95) Contains samples for bombazine, madras, calico, foulard, tow, velvet and many Mrs. Soszynski more (twenty in all). They are modem fabrics that are similar to period textiles WORKS CITED: used for clothing in the third quarter of the nineteenth century. Information sections Cunnington, C. Willet, English Women's Clothing in the Nineteenth Century, include fashion changes from 1850-1880, dyes and colors, dressing by social levels, Dover, New York, 1991. trims and the new invention of the time.. .the sewing machine. Montgomery, Florence M., Textiles in America 1650-1870, W.W. Norton, New York, 1984. Sally Queen & Associates, 2801 S. Joyce Street, Arlington, VA 22202 , Picken, Mary Brooks, A Dictionary of Costume and Fashion Historic and Modem, (888) 266-7298 and on-line at www.sallyqueenassociates.com and e-mail at Dover, New York, 1999. [email protected]. I WE ARE PLEASED TO NOTE.. .

Canteen Cover Kits From the Regimental Quartermaster. their web site at www.learn2sewvideo.com or by phone at (915) I By George, here is a nifty and thrifty item we are happy to spot: 224-0670. You can also contact Ray Green at ray'[email protected] a kit that contains jean cloth cover material, a cork, chain or twine, or [email protected] additional information. [NOTE: Even and the appropriate strap material for the three different Federal depot though I am definitely a candidate for sewing lessons, the time for styles (New York, Cincinnati or Philadelphia). This kit can be had this education alludes me. Perhaps one of our subscribers will try for ten dollars (not including shipping) at The Regimental the instructional video and offer a review. Mr. Christen] Quartermaster, Inc. shop at 49 Steinwehr Ave., Gettysburg, PA 17325 and (717) 338-1864, or by mail at PO Box 553, Hatboro, PA "Civil War Minutes". .. Worth the Time. 19040 and (215) 672-6891. The Regimental QM is on-line at "Civil War Minutes," a new series of DVDs and videos from [email protected] and www.regtqm.com. Civil War Life Productions explores the Civil War through the lives While we are at it.. .we recommend that you add Civil War and experiences of those who endured that tragic time. The Civil Canteens (second edition 1990) by Stephen Sylvia and Michael War Minutes focuses on various aspects of daily life from uniforms O'Donnell (Moss Publications, Box 729, Orange, VA 22960) to and flags to leisure activities. The programs include many your reference book shelf. It is loaded with photographs of original photographs, letters and artifacts from private collections, live action wooden, tin, US Army 1858 issue and unconventional canteens. footage and digitally captured engravings. Another film, "Left For Dead," is available, and others are planned. Call (877) 201-7040 or A Decent Frying-pan Source. visit www.civilwarlife.com or e-mail [email protected] Upper Mississippi Valley Mercantile Company frying-pans are made of sheet steel (about nine inches in diameter) with tapered The Haversack...New Peddlers. sides. The handle is handed forged, and is attached by two rivets. The Haversack bills themselves as a full service tobacconist Owner, Bob Tuftee, plans on making a completely handed forge and haversack needs peddler.. .mainly offering items for smokers, version in the future. They cost $17.75 plus shipping. There is a but they also carry cone sugar and brick tea and period pocket knives. picture of the pan on their web site at www.umvmco.com under Their top selling items include an Irish Cutty Clay Pipe, a Briar ironware. Contact information: 1607 Washington St., Davenport, Huntsman Peasant Pipe, G&H Brown Irish X Rope Tobacco, S.G. IA 52804 and (563) 322-0896 and [email protected]. Kendal Plug Tobacco, S.G. 1792 Flake Tobacco (Tin), Lone Jack Pipe Tobacco and Cone Sugar in one and five pound amounts. Their Learn To Sew Videos. shop, The Haversack / Market Street Smoke Shop, is at 112 2nd Fundamentals of Sewing I and I1 ($18.95 each) by Marilyn Avenue North, Nashville, Tennessee 37201. You can contact the Green are available from Learn To Sew Video. They are teaching peddlers, Owen and Russell, at (615) 254-3338 or tools for the fundamentals of sewing. The videos are sold through [email protected] and www.thehaversack.com Chaps, Chums, Comrades and Pards: Even More Observations on Civil War Soldier Endearments

"Academic debates are particularly heated because the stakes perused writings produced by hundreds of Northern, Southern, are so low." - an unknown professor. and Western men (and even a few women) who lived and wrote between the 1840s and 1870s. Being one who is utterly fascinated by the subject of Civil So who were our "historical pards?'In no particular order War soldier endearments, I enjoyed reading Bob Braun's recent they are listed below: article in which he noted Badger State Captain William S. Mitchell's usage of "pard" while referring to a foe at Stones 1. Private Garret Larew of Crawfordsville, Montgomery County, River (see the WINTER 2002 (10.1) issue). Mr. Braun's recent Indiana in Company K, Eighty-sixth Indiana Infantry. [3] find is certainly interesting and welcome but, by the same token, 2. Private William Andrew Fletcher of Beaumont, Jefferson I hasten to add that it actually buttresses a key point put forth by County, Texas (but originally raised in St. Landry Parish, Paul Calloway and me in our article "The Case for Comrade" Louisiana) in Company F, Fifth Texas Infantry (Hood's Texas in the Camp Chase Gazette (June 2001). Namely, that hard Brigade) and Company E, Eighth Texas Cavalry (Terry's Texas evidence for extensive use of "pard" by Northern and Southern Rangers). He was the author of Rebel Private, Front and Rear troops remains "singularly distinguished in its absence." Indeed, (1908). [4] the statistical case for "pard" as a common soldier term remains, 3. Captain William S. Mitchell of Milwaukee, Milwaukee to date, surprisingly weak. County, Wisconsin in Company D, First Wisconsin Infantry. [s] Paul and I can say this with considerable confidence after 4. Orderly Sergeant Samuel A. Clear of Uniontown, Fayette having examined thousands of letters, dozens of diaries, a broad County, Pennsylvania in Company K, 116th Pennsylvania selection of nineteenth-century popular literature, as well as Infantry (Irish Brigade). [6] numerous post-war memoirs and regimental histories. Despite 5. Samuel Clemens, a.k.a. "Mark Rvain," raised in Hannibal, our very "wide and deep" search, finding pre-1870s usages of Marion County, Missouri. Inclusion of Clemens was a bit of a I "pard" largely proved to be an exercise in frustration. I, for one, stretch, but he is well known to have briefly joined the New have continued to look for such references since "The Case for Orleans "Louisiana Guard" in the winter of 1860-61. He also Comrade" was published but have had little luck. Indeed, our of sewed for a few weeks as Second Lieutenant of the "Marion mounting frustration, I recently searched the Broadfoot Press Rangers," a Missouri Confederate irregular company prior to Official Recor'ds CD-ROM using the key words "pard," moving West in late July 1861. Twain is first known to use "old "pardner," "partner," "chap(s)," and "chum(s)" in conjunction pard" toward the end of his 1866 newspaper piece "Among the with the Boolean search terms AND, OR, NEAR. The Broadfoot Spirits." [7] OR search engine left much to be desired in its capabilities but, nevertheless, neither "pard" nor "pardner" appeared. Conversely, Many would still argue, given the above cases, that the "partner" and "chap(s)" collectively resulted in over forty "hits." fictional Si Klegg should be counted since, of course, former Even "chum" popped up in, of all places, the transcribed Sixty-fifth Ohio Infantry Lieutenant Colonel Wilbur Hinman 7 December 1862 testimony of one "Private M. Shaw" of wrote it. However, one simply cannot escape the fact that even Company D, Forty-fourth New York Volunteer Infantry. As it Hinman's magnum opus can be occasionally problematic. Terms happened, Shaw was interviewed in the course of an ongoing like "feller(s)" and "boy(s)" are used far more than "pard." murder investigation at Camp Parole, Maryland: What is more, even though we did find five individuals, close analyses of their cases actually raised far more questions Question: Did you report [Private W. E.] Chineworth's than provided answers. The geographical "spread" (Indiana, gambling to anybody? Texas, Wisconsin, Pennsylvania and the Far West) certainly Answer: I have spoken of it to his chum, A. J. Hurd. [I] suggests wide usage of "pard," but it does not necessarily follow Americans of that day and age extensively used it. Oddly, our This writer has even periodically cruised through the review of writings by those individuals who might be termed eBayTMonline auction site, using the keyword "pard," in hopes "Most Likely to Use 'Pard"' (i.e., Trans-Mississippi Westerners of finding letters or documents carrying 1860s usages but, so and Southerners) revealed they ...didn 't. far, to no avail. 121 Let us take a closer look at the instances we did uncover. The plain fact is that, as of April 2002, Paul Calloway and To wit: I have encountered only five historical individuals known to have used "pard" in an 1860s context. This number amounted 1. Private Garret Larew used "pard" in at least two 1863 diary to less than one percent of our entire sample population! We entries yet abruptly dropped the term thereafter and never simply could not include "Si Klegg" or any of his "pards" since mentioned it again. Larew was quite capable of adopting slang they were fictional (albeit fact-based) characters. Needless to since he introduced new words in his diary after effectively say, our finding was particularly astonishing given that we transferring to the pioneers in December 1862. However, strange to say, "pard" remained "missing in action" throughout the To further illustrate this point, shown below are extracts remainder of his wartime musings. from just one letter I recently found while scrolling through microfilm on a lazy day at the Allen County Library in Fort 2. Written in a folksy, almost "primitive" style, W. A. Fletcher's Wayne, Indiana. These appear in a remarkable and lengthy Rebel Private, Front and Rear made for entertaining reading. missive written by Private "I. B. E. Hassler," Company B, Second Since Fletcher was an historically documented individual, we Iowa Volunteer Infantry, to his father, describing his experiences decided to include him as one of our "pards" despite the 1908 during the Siege of Fort Donelson in early 1862: [8] publication date of Rebel Private and some very significant errors, omissions, and inconsistencies revealed by a critical My comrade and myself saw a log cabin within two hundred reading of his memoir. Of course, this wasn't surprising in light yards of the enemy's batteries and six of us approached it to rest of the fact that Fletcher wrote Rebel Private in the last years of and sleep. his life and freely admitted in his introduction "This effort [was] made through memory, as I [had] no written data, [and,] The boys gave 3 cheers and started upon a "double quick," therefore, [did] not attempt to give names or dates, [except] at a "charge bayonets." We did not fire until within two yards only in a few instances." Dare we say that, at times, Paul of the Fort. The entrenchments were strongly manned, but our Calloway and I wondered where reality ended and fantasy began boys drove them back, amid a shower of bullets and a heavy fire for Fletcher since his prose eerily resembled that found in of canister and grape. melodramatic "dime novels!" Fletcher's use of "pard" was "casual" to the point of confusing: In some cases he capitalized Dear Father, I have done my duty.. .though many of my it as a proper noun yet, in others, he placed the term into "small- comrades sleep the sleep of death and others of them are suffering case." W. A. Fletcher clearly referred to more than one from frightful wounds.***I was the first that mounted the individual but, alas, almost invariably left us hanging as to the breastworks; my comrade at my side was wounded.***Nine of exact identities of the men mentioned. Was "Pardlpard" a my comrades fell at the point when we entered the fort, all shot contracted proper name, a nickname, an endearment, a through the head. composite character... or all of them to Fletcher? "The Case for Comrade" was, and is, by no means the final 3. Mr. Braun did not indicate the frequency with which Captain word on the subject of soldier endearments. Indeed, it was meant William Mitchell used "pard" in his letters, but we were left more as a "pro-comrade" argument than as an "anti-pard" with the impression it was only once in missives written over a polemic. However, we definitely saw opportunities in our piece two to three year period (Captain Mitchell reportedly did not to "shake the tree," stimulate further discussion, and even survive the war). Mitchell's emphasizing of "pard," by provide a case study showing how systematic historical research underlining it, might also be potentially noteworthy. Could it can sometimes lead to surprising findings. Needless to say, we be that the term was of sufficient novelty to the intended recipient have been remarkably successful on all fronts. We invite further of the letter (or even to Mitchell himself) to merit highlighting? inquiry into the fascinating topic of soldier endearments and sincerely hope that more of our fellow chaps and chums will 4. Mark Twain occasionally used "pard" in his writings but come forward with additional, datable usages of "pard" by 1860s only, so far as is known, in a Far West context. In addition to "Billies," "Johnnies" and "citizens." his 1866 article on "spirit-rapping," "pard popped up again in Mark D. Jaeger one or more quotes placed by Twain into Roughing It but, we NOTES: should note, this work was not published until 1872. 1. Oficial Records, Series II, Volume 5, Prisoners of War, Etc., Serial No. 118,61. 2. The writer did recently find an eBay advertisement for a "cabinet card" image of noted Western poet and scout, J. W. "Captain Jack" Crawford." Included in the ad 5. Orderly Sergeant Clear only mentioned a fellow "pard" once was a brief snippet of verse Crawford wrote in 1876 upon receiving news of George in his diary covering the fifteen months between May 1864 and Armstrong Custer's demise at the Little Big Horn: July 1865. He may well have used the term on a daily basis yet, if he did, we simply have no way of knowing based on his Did I hear the news from Custer? Well, I reckon I did, old pard. surviving writings. It came like a streak o' lightning, And you bet, it hit me hard. By the same token, as Paul Calloway and I pointed out in I ain't no hand to blubber, our article, we have ample proof in period documents, And the briny ain't run for years, But chalk me down for a lubber newspapers and personal missives that soldiers and civilians If I didn't shed regular tears. frequently used just about any conceivable endearment other than "pard!" The number of times we encountered "comrade" Crawford, incidentally, sewed in a Pennsylvania regiment during the war and in contemporary sources easily ran into the hundreds. Systematic subsequentlypublished a book of GAR-related poetry, Camp Fire Sparks (Chicago: C. H. Kerr & Co., 1893). See Deadwood Magazine Online, SepIOct 1998 at searches through the Sanitary [Commission] Bulletin (published www.deadwood.com/magazine/archives/CaptJack.htm as well as eBaym 1863-1865) and the Official Records also revealed numerous Item #1095810540 (accessed 26 April 2002). uses of "comrade(s)" in published letters and official documents. 3. Karl Garret Larew, editor, "The Civil War Diary of Garret Larew," Indiana Military History Journal 7, October 1982, pages 4-19. A complete transcription Magazine and subsequently included in his Merry Tales (New York: Charles L. of Larew's wartime diary is maintained in the Crawfordsville [Indiana] Public Webster &Co., 1892). For an interesting analysis, as well as a complete version, of Library Genealogy Room. Twain's "The Private Histo ry..." consult John Gerber's "Mark Twain's Private 4. William A. Fletcher (preface by Bell Irvin Wiley), Rebel Private, Front and Campaign" in Civil War Hisrory 1 (March 1955), pages 37-60. Rear (Austin, Texas: University of Texas Press, 1954). A lengthy biography of 8. Letter from Private "I. B. E. Hassler" [sic] to his father, I. B. Hassler, Fort Wayne, W. A. Fletcher (1839-1915) can be found at the Handbook of Texas On-line web Indiana Daily Timesand Union,3 March 1862. The Second Iowa muster roU does site www.tsha.utexas.edulhandbooWonlindartic1es/view/FFIfldddhtml not list an "I. B. E." Hassler. However, a Private "James B. Hassler," aged 21, 5. Letters of William Mitchell, Jan Mitchell Collection, Northfield, Minnesota, residence of Davenport, Scott County, Iowa, enlistment date of 20 April 1861, transcribed copies in the Milwaukee County Historical Society Collection. does appear in the "Civil War Research Database" (www.civilwardata.com) and 6. W. Springer Menge and J. August Shirnrak, editors, The Civil WarNotebook of at the Scott County, Iowa GenWeb Project site: www.celticcousins.neUscotU Daniel Chisholm: A Chronicle ofDaily Life in the Union Anny 1864-1865,(New civwamters.hmaW2inf. Accordingly, "I. B. E." and "James B." Hassler are almost York: Ballantine Books, 1989). certainly one and the same. 7. Marklhain, "Among the Spirits," Virginia Cify [Nevada Tenitory] Territorial Enterprise, 4 February 1866. Available at www.twainquotes.com/teindex.html. Mark D. Jaeger portrays a First Lieutenant of Company G, Thirty-second (1st Twain's account of his brief, inglorious stint at soldiering, 'The Private History of German) Indiana Volunteer Infantry. In "citizen life," he works in the Purdue the Campaign That Failed," was initially published in the December 1885 Century University Libraries Special Collections, West Lafayette, Indiana

QUERIES FROM FRIENDS AND SUBSCRIBERS (for which we do not always have answers; perhaps you do!)

Subject: CS officer's Coat Buttons. with the overcoat would be appreciated during the cold weather). Well, I've answered my own question. After calling virtually 3) Sharpshooters scavenged to find the "best fit" among the re- every sutler in existence for the fifth time, I spoke with the issued uniforms after the prior owners had become casualties gentleman from Fair Oaks Sutler. He suggested buying Indian or were discharged. Others sent their dress coats home before War era buttons from S&S Firearms, which I did upon sending discharge. for samples first. The quality and condition of these buttons is 4) Photographs, (circa 1863-4) show United States spectacular. The brass shows through the gilt finish only on Sharpshooters (USSS) troops dressed in sack coats/blouses (the highly raised areas. I am told that there is a slight difference Bummers of Company B). Company F and USSS regimental from Civil War Federal staff examples in the eagle and back, quartermaster records further support this. but it is minimal. For $8 each large and $1.25 each small, they 5) Engravings in period newspapers (i.e., Harper's Weekly of are a bargain. If one were to find all he needed of the wartime April and July 1862: "Berdan's Sharpshooters before Yorktown" Federal staff buttons in order to do a whole frock coat, it would and "At Malvern Hill") shows the men attired in sack coats/ probably cost over $1,000 (for English-made Confederate staff, blouses. Artistic license or reality? more like $50;000!). As I am not Bill Gates, this is not 6) An 1864 letter by Major Mattocks requesting a "Field practicable. For about $180, I have gotten the buttons I needed Officers" court-martial hearing as some enlisted men had refused for a nice coat. Michael Sokoloski new green coats as they had already drawn blue blouses. The men cited the fact that their clothing accounts would be Subject: Berdan Green? overdrawn if they accepted the (unnecessary) coats. I do a Berdan Sharpshooter impression (Second Regiment, Company C). Our organization has difficulty finding certain Our presumption is that Mr. Foy and Mr. Eastman are aware items since we are not standard US infantry. The obvious that the First regiment of US Sharpshooters had matching green problem is finding the "correct" color green wool. Nothing we trowsers. The Second regiment wore the usual sky-blue kersey find seems to be as dark as the Don Troiani Coat, or the trowsers. Smithsonian Sealed Pattern coat. I have found some samples My concern with most sharpshooter impressions is that they that are reasonably close, but have yet to find the "Holy Grail" all center on the Peninsula Campaign uniform, with the of green wool. It seems that every Berdan reenactor has a European hair knapsacks, etc., and then assume that this different opinion on the topic ...most of which are based on impression is correct for the balance of the war. This is incorrect. limited facts or research! Does the DOG have any information Stevens' sharpshooter history indicated that the men boxed up concerning sharpshooter items such as the green wool, leather their forest green dress coats prior to the Spring campaigns of gaiters and calfskin knapsacks? Michael Eastman [Note we 1863, which means Burden's Sharpshooters generally were clad also received a request from a Mr. Foy asking for sources for in the Army fatigue blouse at Gettysburg. Berdan Sharpshooter uniforms.] An account of a fellow in Company A which I read a loooong time ago mentioned this uniform as well, and added Subscriber, Ryan "Paddy" Conroy, found this information, that he and some comrades were equipped with rope and but did not include the documentation. We offer it here with the grappling hooks to facilitate tree climbing.. .all during the label of "undocumented alien" for the time being. Chancellorsville/Gettysburg campaigns. I think that, as a general rule, the green dress coat is very 1) There were no new issues of the Berdan Rifle-Green uniform much overdone by today's reenactors compared to the original coats after May 1863 in the Vermont Company. accounts of Berdan's men on active campaign. Mr. Braun 2) Green uniform coats were turned in, stored and then reissued during the winter months, (the heavier dress coat when combined Sources for a Berdan's kit? Well, I suvvose that if some I one could get (find the material, etc.) Daley to do it, or Joe 5. Most patterns of the era were single color transfer. either in Slunt? or maybe Ray Houck? or Nancy Eddins (if she makes medium blue, brown, green, purple, black, red, pink or lighter Federal frocks)? or Dennis Sernrau? Jodi Nolan has quit making blue (the very dark blue of "historical Staffordshire" is usually frocks. much later). There were also "polychrome" wares-transferred I am talking "better than off the rack" here. I am assuming in a single color (usually black or brown) with little spots of that one, a Berdan's frock is the same as a Federal enlisted other colors added (usually quite clumsily) afterwards by hand. frock, except for color, piping and buttons (likewise the trowsers) 6. Transferwarereproductions were very trendy during the 1940s and that two, appropriate broadcloth and kersey can be found and 50s and experienced a big revival during the 1976 (no one makes the hard rubber buttons, do they?). Bicentennial. By the way, commemorative and "tourist" china This might be a case of "best available solution." was indeed quite popular in our era and earlier in the nineteenth The forage cap is easy. The best available is probably Dirty century, but make sure you get commemoratives that depict Billy.. .unless Brad Keune would make one. Mr. Murley buildings built before 1860 or so! The big name in 1940s and 50s reproductions was Johnson Brothers. Spode has reproduced Subject: China Question. some of their late Eighteenthlearly nineteenth-century patterns The question of appropriate "mess furniture" for the ladies that would certainly be suitable for "old dishes" (e.g., like 1940- was brought up an an-line discussion list (CW-reenactors). 50's stuff is to us now) in their "archive" and "blue room' Watchdog contributor, Kathryn Coombs, provides some collections. These are new but nonetheless collectable. interesting observations on china alternatives and using Internet Sometimes they can still be had quite cheaply on eBayTM, auctions as a source of information and the objects themselves. especially by buying sets. If you are not on line, then a visit to an antique shop, mall or Spatterwarel Spongeware was very common since the early show might provide the same, or better real time education. nineteenth century and is very frequently and cheaply reproduced. Here are some examples of decent reproductions Kathryn Coombs replies: Here are some other options to going cheaply on eBayT" found by minimal searching. consider in addition to ironstone: octagonal Independence Bennington ware (American Rockingham), by which we Ironstone, creamware such as Wedgwood Queensware and the generally mean the brown glazed stuff made by the Bennington very safe transferware option of Blue Willow. potteries since the early nineteenth century and still made now, Transferware was extremely common-not only in the is another option to consider. If you search eBayTM for familiar blue willow pattern still made but in a wide variety of "Bennington" and "Rockingham' at the same time, you will patterns. You can often find decent transferware that looks very call up some wonderful originals to help you get accustomed to much like the early to mid nineteenth century wares in flea the look of the characteristic drippy brown glaze. I bought some markets, charity shops, etc. The key is to learn as much as you modem era Bennington mixing bowls at a flea market for two can about the look of the originals so you know which dollars each (just as an example of what you can find). Avoid reproductions have the same sort of design feeling and which the unglazed stuff made by the modem-day Bennington potters. do not. It has a nice rustic look to it, but it looks way too early for A good series of books to read, if you really want to study 1860s. this is the Petra Williams Romantic Staffordshire series. Yellowware is another option. It was still widely made in However, one on-line tutor is actually eBayTM(just don't buy the 1950-1960s. the antiques for reenacting ...camping with your antique collection is generally not very wise). However, study the real Subject: Provost Marshal's Insignia. antiques and then look for reproductions based on these. We received two requests for Provost Marshal insignia sources. Key search terms are "transferware" and "transfer" and "Staffordshire." Much of the transferware sold in this country A description of the provost marshal (PM) appears in was imported from England. As these dishes were pottery, not August V. Kautz, Customs of Service for OfJicers of the Army china, they were considered everyday dishes. There was quite a (1866). It offers some interesting comments on the duties and lot of transferware on the Arabia (including a pattern I have in method of appointment of the sort of PM who would have served my collection). in Montgomery County. It mentions no distinguishing insignia. A few key points to remember: Customs of Service for Non-Commissioned OfJicers and Soldiers 1. Anything marked "made in England" is post-1895. (However, (1864), also by Kautz, describes the duties of the provost- when you get to the point of looking for reproductions, you sergeant, but mentions no special insignia. want this, to make sure they are repros!) I find no mention of provosts in the US Army Regulations 2. Anything termed "aesthetic" is circa 1870-1890. for 1861. The Articles of War prescribe various duties of 3. Be very careful on eBayTMas you can buy some wonderful provosts, but I find no mention of insignia. Scott's Military and quite early original pieces for very, very cheap. Great to Dictionary (1861) briefly describes the provost's duties, but collect, but not for camping! mentions no insignia. The same is true of Gilham's Manual for 4. Circa 1830s to mid-1860s transferware usually had a border Volunteers and Militia (1860) and The Military Handbook and pattern and then a center pattern. Sticking with this formula is Soldier's Manual (1861). safest if you do not know your stuff. You may wish to try to track down a book entitled Rebel I 1 Watchdog, by Kenneth Radley. It describes the CS Provost did in King's Division at 135th Gettysburg) is a magic moment, function in some detail, and may give you some leads on the but apparently one most people must be missing out on. information you are seeking. Mr. Rainey Otherwise they would realize how wrong the boxes are in size. (Case in point: a recent visit to a nationally known sutler in Subject: Crates and Boxes. Gettysburg revealed that he carried boxes labeled to hold one While Mr. Rainey was poking around in the manuals and thousand S8cal.rounds and one thousand .69cal. rounds. The based on his experience portraying an Assistant Quartermaster, .58cal. box was too small to hold that many and the .69cal. box PACS, a query about sources for dimensions of original was exactly the same size! Seems like somebody would realize ammunition boxes and rifle crates. the discrepancy here! !!) August Kautz, Customs of Service for Non-Commissioned Both the US 1861 and CS 1863 ordnance manuals have Officers and Soldiers (1864), page 155 gives dimensions for drawings, dimensions and detailed construction specs (size and hardtack boxes (and bacon boxes) and photos of hardtack boxes number of nails to be used, for example) for shipping crates for exist in the big multi-volume set of Civil War photos that came rifle muskets and rifles. They also give dimensions, construction out in the 1970s [William C. Davis' The Images of War, 1861- specs, and paint colors for the packing boxes for many kinds of 1865, National Historical Society, Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, small arms ammunition. 19841. The combination will allow you to produce a very credible Dixie Leather Works sells stencils and plans for a well- box. Incidentally, the Petersburg museum of the Richmond- documented CS .577cal. ammunition box, based on an original Petersburg National Military Park claims to display the only in the New York State Historical Society. known remnant of a Civil War hardtack box-recovered from A very large proportion of reproduction ammunition boxes the mine leading to The Crater. It is too fragmentary to be of found today are very undersized, so much so that they cannot much help. CS records, incidentally, also mention the shipment hold the labeled quantity of ammo. Breaking open a packing of hardtack in barrels, which Kautz deplores. Mr. Rainey crate in the field and issuing properly packaged ammo (as we

FEEDBACK AND FOLLOW-UP

Flippin's Jacket. Georgia, in early 1864 and thus, groups [present day units] such I was surprised to see Charlie McCulloh [FALL 2001 (9.4) as Cleburne's, the Fourth Kentucky Infantry and the Jeff Davis issue] call the Flippin jacket a "documented Western wool Rifles adopted this jacket. In-depth research by several "pre- jacket." This jacket is generally accepted by uniform researchers progressive" Confederate reenactors in the Tennessee area in to be a Richmond Depot "Type 111" jacket, as described by Les the early 1980s showed that none of this "history" was true ...it Jensen. In fact, Jensen listed the Flippin jacket in his well-known just did not stand up. articles as one of the Richmond "Type 111" jackets he studied. I would be interested to know if any research has come to Even though it only has eight buttons, it corresponds very well light lately that shows these conclusions to be incorrect. This with the other characteristics of this jacket style. was the line of thought adopted by the "pre-progressive" Flippin's military service record (National Archives), like reenactors in Tennessee in the mid-80s. Their discussions and most enlisted Confederate records, is not very detailed. However, my own research convinced me. Les Jensen also reached this it does show him as Private Thomas J. Flippin, Company G, conclusion around this same time when he saw this jacket. I Third Tennessee Infantry. Flippin's regiment served the entire have not read anything to indicate any newer ideas on this jacket, war in the Army of Tennessee (AoT), and surrendered with but then, I have been on the periphery of such research for the General Johnston in North Carolina in April 1865. However, past five years and I might have missed something. Flippin himself was detailed to temporary duty on 6 December The only reason I became familiar with the Flippin jacket 1864, under a Major B.F. Carter (possibly Major Benjamin F. in the first place was the controversy in the mid-80s over whether Carter of Palmer's Brigade. This brigade also served in the AoT or not AoT reenactors should be wearing our then-current cadet and surrendered in North Carolina). Further, Flippin's service gray jackets. I had been sucked in completely by the early-80s record shows that he was captured at Orangeburg, South thinking about these cadet gray jackets. I even had a hand-sewn Carolina, on 12 February 1865, and released to go home on 14 one custom-made for my own impression (as a matter of fact, June. Apparently, Flippin drew this Richmond Depot stylejacket as I later learned, it was a direct repro of the Flippin jacket). We from eastern stores, was captured in it and wore it home, so it is all thought these things were so cool (and so Western). not therefore a Western style jacket. But then a couple of pards that I met when I lived in East It is true that, at one time, this jacket was thought by most Tennessee in 1984 convinced me that the Flippin jacket was to be an AoT jacket, and it was, in fact, this very jacket that really an Eastern jacket, and that we ought to be wearing started the "cadet gray" craze among Confederate infantry "Columbus Depot" jackets (we were calling them "Orphan reenactors in the Western theater circa 1978. Entire "histories" Brigade" jackets then). Prior to then I had always considered were invented about this style of jacket ... how some 40,000 of the "CDIOB" jackets to be early-war, based on the identifications this "4th Pattern" jacket were issued to the AoT at Dalton, of the three Orphan Brigade originals in Kentucky (which I later found were not quite correct, at least in their dating). also be suspect as some of the owners also were in "the east" at Anyway, when Les Jensen's article came out in 1989, and he the close of the war. In light of the absence of concrete called the Flippin jacket a Richmond Depot jacket, I was documentation I will have to further examine the background convinced for sure. [I] of these garments also. Mr. McCulloh If you want to print a correction, maybe you ought to just cite Jensen's article. I "have" examined the Flippin jacket, but We stand corrected and hereby state that Flippin jacket is most of my research is based on what the guys in Tennessee had not a documented Western jacket! Mr. Christen already done on it. It's OK by me if you want to use my previous correspondence, but Jensen (and others) were the guys who really [I] Jensen, Leslie D. "A Survey of ConfederateCentral Government Quartermaster Issue Jackets, Parts 11, and I " articles in the Military Collector and Historian, the researched that type of jacket back then. Geoffrey R. Walden journal of the Company of Military Historians, Volume 41, Numbers 3 and 4, 1989. Geoff published an article in two parts, "Confederate 'Columbus Depot" When looking at the Flippin jacket I used the records Jackets: The Material Evidence" in the Camp Chase Gazene some years ago. Our currently available at the Davis Home. I also found no further "dog-eared" photocopies of the article do not reference the dates of publication, but we believe it to be sometime after November 1994. You might also refer to his reference to an issue from the east when pulling the records article on this topic in the SUMMER 1994 (.3) of the DOG. available to me. I will of course defer to yours and Les Jensen's research abilities, as mine pale in comparison. Your work on Circa Historic Attire. Columbus Depot jackets is outstanding and Les, is of course, Circa Historic Attire was mentioned in the WINTER 2002 legendary. I would trust your conclusions implicitly. As a point (10.1) issue. A few notes.. .the correct name of the new business in fact, every benchmark that I use to examine garments is from is Circa Historic Attire (versus "Clothiers") and it is Beth Miller- Les Jensen's nomenclature system. Even with the small Hall and Kate John (versus just Beth) who are the proprietors. differences that the jacket exhibits (button number being one) I The current hours are Friday 1-9pm, Saturday 10 am-8pm and certainly see how the scenario you propose has the greatest Sunday 10amSpm. probability of being the correct one. If there is one small fact I have learned in viewing original garments from the period it is L.D. Haning and Company "Telegraphic" Corrections. "The more I know, the more I don't know" and if someone Also in the WINTER 2001 (10.1) issue we reviewed C.S. says, "I am absolutely certain" ...they are almost assuredly wrong. Storms cap boxes from L.D. Haning and Company (Tim Welch). I will ask Bill to please print a retraction. You can catch him and samples of his work at the Mansfield, Realizing of course that without documentation you must Ohio, Civil War Show (4.5 May 2002). His correct e-mail sometimes draw conclusions based on the best evidence. Other address and web site URL is [email protected] and wool jackets I have seen with a "western" provenance could www.ldhaning.com.

IN THE FIELD

The DOG will be at two 140th "big shows," the Antietam The Antietam 140th Reenactment event in September and the Perryville, Kentucky in October. The sheer size of these events makes them atypical of what Event Planning in Progress. many of us do at smaller events closer to home. However, these The Battle of Antietam in September 1862 was considered two are where the numbers aid the semblance of accurate military the single, bloodiest day in American history. It still is. The scale we all desire, and where a large portion of the tribe meets. Antietam Commemorative Committee (the planners of the In the case of Perryville the Watchdog staff has volunteered 140th) hope to recognize the courage, the loss and the incredible to help that event's civilian committee rather than set up a big military siege that enveloped a tiny farming community in shebang. Our help will be of that of labor during the event and Maryland. This battle impacted families throughout the Union a few presentations. More details on this event will be included and the Confederacy, and was a national event. As reenactors, in the next issue. The Perryville 2002 event contact is Perryville we have the opportunity 13-15 September 2002, to honor the Battlefield State Historic Site, 1825 Battlefield Parkway, dead and educate the public on the ordeal that forever changed Perryville, Kentucky 40468 and www.perryville2002.com. The the landscape of Maryland. Perryville event takes place on 4-6 October 2002. At Antietam look for our shebang in the publications area. Comparisons and Changes with the 135th Reenactment. The staff will be offering impression improvement assistance This year's event will take place on the same farm used in as well as the usual shopping "advice." We will have the usual 1997 for the 135th anniversary of Antietam. The Artz family, "soldier's rest" and the "parlor." The following update was who is generously and enthusiastically looking forward to the received from Karen Rae Mehaffey, Civilian Coordinator, and event, owns the land. The site layout will vary from 1997, in Don Warlick, Reenactor Coordinator, on behalf of the Antietam order to allow for larger camps and more space. Also, as in Commemorative Committee. I am pleased to publish this 1997, water will be provided by the laying down of underground information and appreciate the committee's efforts in regard to copper piping, avoiding the need for tankers and unsightly water continuous improvement and preservation. Mr. Christen buffaloes in camp. Water spigots will be located throughout the site, making it convenient to fill canteens and haul water. bid will go to preservation. Unlike 1997, the battles will be in historically correct order. The event will host a large dining tent, numerous sutlers Reenactors requested this, and we are listening. A total of five and two dances for your pleasure. The dance on Friday will be battles will be fought, which include Fox's Gap, The Cornfield, open to the public as well, and will be led by the Libby Prison Bloody Lane, a Cavalry battle and A.P. Hill's Attack, in this Minstrels. Saturday night's dance will be for reenactors only, order. The commanders are very involved in the planning of and will be led by the 2nd South Carolina String Band. Music this event, and are Dana Heim, Union Commander and will be abundant on site, as several bands and ensembles are Jim Maupin, Confederate Commander. The Cavalry will have being invited to play at various locations around the event site an important presence at Fox's Gap on Friday afternoon, and throughout the weekend. the cavalry commanders, Craig Beachler, Union Commander Sunday will open with a special event in honor of all who and Barry Shepherd, Longstreet's Corps Commander, are have fallen in American wars, and particularly for those who planning scenarios. Two marches to the site are being planned were lost on 11 September 2001. As the event takes place during by units as well. Watch for more information on the Internet the week of 9-11, Sunday's activities will open with a Grand Civil War forums. Review of the Confederate and Union troops present and a To answer a few of the questions out there about battle memorial service dedicated to those that have given their lives locations, camps and roads, let us offer these updates. The for American freedom. A permanent, commemorative flag will Cornfield is located on the same piece of land as that used in be raised. The Artz Family has agreed to have a permanent 1997. The A.P. Hill Attack scenario will take place on a beautiful flagpole and flag on their land, in memory of the fallen. A period piece of land chosen specifically for this battle. And as noted church service and a gospel sing will follow the tribute. before, the entire site has been spread out to accommodate more spacious camps. Traffic patterns are greatly improved for the For Preservation: a Sneak Preview, Candlelight Tours and 2002 event. The state of Maryland has opened another the Artz Collection. interchange off of Route 70, allowing for smoother traffic merger Last, but not least, a sneak preview (a twenty-two-minute in and out of the site. To better accommodate the reenactors, short) of the "Gods and Generals" movie will be shown at the the Union and Confederate camps will have private traffic Maryland Theatre in Hagerstown. The showings will be on patterns at the back, to get reenactors on and off the site. The Thursday night (12 September) at six and eight o'clock in the public will not have access to these roads. As we provided in evening. Tickets will be ten dollars with the proceeds going to 1997, roads will be mulched. Cars left in camp will be towed off preservation. Watch the event web site (see below) for details. the site! ARF! Keep in mind seating will be limited. As in 1997;an extensive educational program will be offered Another preservation fund-raiser will be candlelight camp for school children. Organizers are working with the tours. They will be offered on Friday night. Various stations Superintendent of Schools, and will be providing teaching plans will be set up for the tour, allowing the public to glimpse a on the Battle of Antietam for educators to use in the classroom military camp and civilians during the carnage of war. prior to the event. Schools will be touring the camps and site Finally, Mr. Artz has generously offered to display his from 9 in the morning until 2:30 on Friday afternoon. extensive collection of antique farm equipment, period wagons and other antiques in his collection. His private collection Something for Everyone. includes a wagon that was used to carry wounded from the The focus of the event is education, preservation and battlefield at Antietam in 1862. providing a great living-history experience. In order to try and help everyone achieve these goals, a variety of activities are Further Information. being planned. There will be two activities tents with continuous Planning will continue through the spring, as the organizers lectures and events occurring in both. Military lectures will be want to work with and for the reenactors, to create the best provided prior to each battle, and lectures on civilians during experience possible. Thousands of spectators and school children the Battle of Antietam, food ways in 1862 (foods available and will converge on this event and will try and learn what it was their preservation), fashions of the era and other topics will be like to be a part of this enormous event in American history. We featured. A period style show will be presented, as well as a hope you will attend and help to make that experience real. For tableau. The organizers are pleased to note that Stephen Lang, registration information, go to www.antietamreenactment.org who portrays General Stonewall Jackson in the upcoming "Gods For ticket and tourism information, go to the web site at and Generals" movie will present a lecture on Jackson during www.antietamreenactment.org or call (888) 248-4597. the event. Other highlights include a living history area with a temperance tent, period children's games and a Turkish Smoking Karen Rae Mehaffey Salon. Saturday afternoon, a period auction will be presented. Don Warlick Original antiques and reproductions of the War era will be (for the Antietam Commemorative Committee) auctioned for preservation. Please watch for more information on the auction on the Antietam web site. Reenactors will be invited to bring items for auction, and a portion of each winning Dressing Young Boys: Options for Living History

"Stonewall" Jackson.. .Abraham Lincoln.. .Robert E. Lee.. . in considering fashion notes is the time-span: the notes are John Brown.. .these men share a common ground: they all wore describing similar items for a period of nearly a decade, with dresses as infants, and likely as small boys. This knowledge few changes beyond trim or particularly popular fabrics. should be a comfort to modern fathers and mothers who feel These same varieties are also seen in photographs from the reluctant to dress their lads in "girly" clothes. None of these era. A casual survey of thirty-three randomly selected images gentlemen were warped or emasculated by wearing skirts as of boys ages one to five years old (to a mother's eye), shows toddlers. The practice of dressing boys in skirts and petticoats twenty boys wearing some form of skirts. Three boys (appearing until after toilet training held on well into the twentieth century; to be between two and four years old) also wore "knee pants": many of us, taking a glance at family photos, are surprised to very full, straight trousers hemmed to between the knee and see that sweet little "girl" captioned, "Grandpa Joe, age 2, 1923." mid-calf, and often decorated to compliment the dress. [Editor's When families are involved in Civil War era reenactment, note: As a general rule the location of the hair part (center: one of the most difficult hurdles to overcome is the thought of female and side: male) is an indication of gender. The images dressing their little boys in dresses. However, any family wishing used to illustrate this article were chosen from those of "little to accurately present the material culture of the time will want gentlemen7' in the editor's collection, which also had additional to dress everyone appropriately.. . even the boys. We'll focus identification (unless otherwise noted).] here on the clothing options for boys age one to six, with special attention paid to "dresses." It is a challenge to dress toddlers and small boys. Infancy is relatively simple. It is well established in images, writings, illustrations, advertisements and advice to mothers that infant boys wear the same gowns and frocks as do infant girls. We know that by later childhood most boys are dressing in relatively adult clothing. What does the neatly dressed male toddler wear? The July 1857 Godey's Lady's Book notes that attractive dresses for boys to age five are made with full skirts, short sleeves, and a belt or girdle at the waist, or in long-sleeved, high-necked "blouses," (described further as a bodice and skirts cut "as one," full and having no waist seam) belted or girdled at the waist, with decorated drawers beneath them. (Nothing is said whether these drawers were white underdrawers, or decorated, short trousers. Illustrations show both.) A brief note in the August 1857 edition of Godey 's suggests that infant dresses were worn into childhood, with the dress let out at shoulders and waist for extra width and length, making a dress for a one-year old fit a three-year old boy. Peterson's Magazine (1861) notes several times that the same boy's dress with long (knee length) skirts and jacket can be worn with skirts (underskirts) or "knee pants, according to the age of the child." Suits consisting of wide, full, short trousers banded below the knee (much morifull than the knickers of the FIG 1. Earl Miller, CdV by Benjamin Franklin Battels, later century) worn with a long vest and coat are also noted as Akron, Ohio, circa 1865. being suited to boys who are "too young to be breeched, and too old to wear frocks and pinafores," giving voice to the masculine The dresses range from very unisex styles (bateau or jewel sensibilities of little boys. necks, full or smooth bodices and defined waists, which would Many garments for ages two to five are listed, "for a child," look just as becoming on a small girl) to decidedly masculine with no sex given preferential listing. It can be assumed, then, styles (A-line frocks belted at the waist, or "blouson" styles that the garments themselves (typically dresses or frocks, often falling full from the shoulder and belted at the waist.) Plaids, with decorative jackets) are suited to either. checks and other manly fabrics seem popular. These same sorts of comments are made through the end The remaining images show boys in knee pants and long of the war in 1865 regarding boy's clothing: frocks, tunics and trousers. One common garment worn with the pants is a waist over-blouses, belts, sashes and girdles, petticoats and drawers to hip length jacket, fastened only at the neck, with no lapel or and knee-pants. We do not often want to lean too heavily on collar and curving away from the center at the hem. The sleeves fashion notes; these sometimes have a bad reputation for showing are generally smooth-set at the armscye and cut generously the "ideal" and not the commonly worn. One mitigating factor through the elbow and wrist. This jacket is seen over white and

18 E ' WATCH1 SPRING 2001 ------__.___ colored bodices or shirts, with or without a coordinating- mh -4 vest, and in every incarnation from extremely embellished to very simple. In the fancier varieties, a dark necktie is worn in a bow at the collar. How does all this translate, in practical terms, for the reenacting family? The picture that emerges is one of pleasant harmony; accuracy may be satisfied by dressing small boys in frocks, tunics or dresses, worn with petticoats until toilet training is accomplished, and with short or long trousers (depending on the weather) afterward. The use of plaids, checks and militarily styled embellishments such as braiding, applique, buttons and bands adds a masculine note to fairly unisex frocks. There are certain advantages to dresses during toilet training; chiefly, that white underdrawers make only one layer for small boys to maneuver downward, rather than several. Once the first, urgent days of training are past, trousers are worn. Underdrawers are also quite inexpensive to make and replace and are easily bleached back to white when they inevitably become soiled at the knees. If made with functional tucks at the hems. They also accommodate toddler growth spurts better than do trousers. The resultant shortening of dresses during a growth spurt generally renders them a perfect length for "tunics" over trousers FIG 4a (left) and FIG 4b (right). "Richard Andrew Linden" (written once the spurt, and training, are accomplished. on back of both images), in his skirt, CdV, circa 1863-1865 (no Another advantage to dressing boys accurately is the backmark). He appears again in a fashionable outfit on a CdV by D. increased opportunity for public interaction. Many passersby Pierce, circa 1864-1866 (revenue stamp affixed). will remark on the "sweet little girl," giving mother or father a brief chance to educate: "Actually, little James will stay FIG 3. "Horace's boy, Three in frocks until he is fully toilet trained, and then he'll move years old" (written on back), in into trousers." If a first-person scenario is called for, more his skirt and jacket, CdV, circa details can be given in a "here and now" manner; if third 1865 (no backmark). person is acceptable to the event structure, it is a good time to note boys' dresses in modem memory. One caution: small boys who are accustomed to the breezy feel of drawers and petticoats may be reluctant to give up their comforts in the summer! ! Elizabeth Clark

Elizabeth Clark is an historic dressmaker and designer specializing in children's clothing of the mid-nineteenth century. More articles on children's clothing can be found at www.elizabethstewartclark.com , ,

FIG 2. "Bertie, 15l/2 Months." (written on back), in his dress, CdV by T.R. Burnham, Boston, i FIG 5. "Uncle Henry" (written on back), Massachusetts, wearing shirt and short pants buttoned circa 1865. together, CdV by Geo. D. Knecht, iC-/"b3 "Excelsior, Traveling Artist" (imprint), Allentown, Pennsylvania, circa 1865-66. - - ME WATCHDOG PO BOX 1675 WARREN, MI 48090-1675

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SUBSCRIPTION INFORMATION The Watchdog. (ISSN 1067-2729) is published quarterly by The Watchdog Quarterly, Inc., a nonprofit corporation in the State of Michigan. Subscriptions (US and Canadian) are $15 annually, with $13 for each additional year. Foreign subscriptions are $20 (US) per year. Back issues are $2 (before 1999) and $4 (1999 and beyond). An index is available upon request. Send subscription requests, inquiries and submissions to the address above.

ThWatchdog accepts no paid advertising. Contributors and writers receive no compensation for their articles other than free copies of the issue with their article. All net profits are donated yearly to battlefield and historical preservation organizations.Contributors are solely responsible for the accuracy of theirresearch, the opinionsexpressed in their article and do retain copyright to article content. SPRI Bill Christen, Publisher & Editor-at-fault Lynn Kalil, Assistant Editor Bob Braun, Associate Editor IN THIS ISau B... Charlie McCulloh, Associate Editor Mike Murley, Associate Editor review of Knopp's Coi es & Horse Equ Lee Rainey, Associate Editor Rick Simmons, Associate Editor LOOKING AT ORIGINALS.. .Keadv mnrln" Blockade Run'' '~L...~,,,.P Jomarie Soszynski, Associate Editor Weaves John Yingling, Associate Editor Larry See, Web Site Editor urns, CC ; and Pa en More Obser - - -. usual QUERIES -- A .. HAS YOUR SUBSCRIPTION EXPIRED? F'hBUHALl'-- Flippin Jacket and otller items There is a number after your name on your address label that looks "r I like X.Y (X = volume, Y = issue, for example: the SPRING 2002 IN THE FIEL- -.-A.0th Antietam Event rnformation issue is (10.2). This number indicates the last issue of your Dressing Yc tys: Options for Living subscription.. .unless you renew. If the box on the left is checked, your subscription has expired and you have received this issue as acourtesy. CONTACT BY TELEGRAPH e-mail: [email protected] - web site URL: www.watchdogmview.com web site design by Leelanau Communications, Inc., Andrew MacFarlane, Pres. Expertly printed by John Chmelko of Eastown Printing Service, Centerline, Michigan Copyright O 2002 All rights reserved