TM Guide to Inkle : Free Inkle Patterns, Plans, and Projects

© F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com inkle-loom project Originally Published in Handwoven, March 2009

sharon kersten Make a loom and weave

structure a hatband­ in two days Warp-faced with pick-up. without breaking the bank! Equipment Inkle loom to accommo- date at least a 4 ft warp length (this loom allows Here’s how to construct a loom, warp it, and weave a project all 80"); smooth string or within a weekend. This lightweight, portable loom is suitable for strong sewing thread for tying ; popsicle small projects like hatbands and bookmarks. It can easily be sticks; kitchen laminate samples to use as shut- disassembled for travel when needed! tles; small pick-up stick.

Yarns o build this loom, you’ll need to gather a Warp: #10 cotton crochet Tfew basic handtools and take a trip to thread or 5/2 pearl your local hardware store or “big-box” home cotton, 25 yd white and improvement center. 25 yd black (or DMC embroidery floss, 4 skeins light, 4 skeins dark). Making the loom Weft: same as light warp, Cut the CPVC (chlorinated polyvinyl chlo- 1 about 8 yd. ride) pipe into two 16" front pieces, two 2 ⁄2" other supplies back pieces, seven 6" cross pieces, three 5" pieces for castle uprights and string See list of supplies and 1 rod, six 1 ⁄2" pieces for joining T and L materials for constructing connectors, and one 7" rod. Push pieces the inkle loom. together as shown on page 3. Warp length For the tensioning device: Arrange on each

34 ends alternating 24" threaded rod: 4" space, washer, 2 nuts, 9" What you’ll need 1 dark/1 light 80" long space, 2 nuts, washer, and about a 10" space. Tools Coping saw, hacksaw, miter box and (this length will depend The 4" space goes into the back arm; the 10" saw, or PVC pipe cutter (if available); utility on the inkle loom). space into the castle assembly. (The washers knife; not-your-sewing scissors; tape measure keep the nuts from sliding inside the T setts or ruler; pencil; slip-jaw pliers (to loosen any connector.) Snug the 2 nuts so they are finger Warp: about 45 epi. stuck pipes, if needed). tight only. Moving the two sets of nuts toward Weft: about 13 ppi. Materials and other supplies One 10 ft each other loosens the tension, away from 1 length ⁄2" CPVC pipe (you can cut it in half to each other tightens the tension. (Place elastics 1 1 Dimensions transport), ten ⁄2" T connectors, six ⁄2" L 3 1 3 Weaving width: ⁄4". as in Photo a, page 4, to prevent the loom from connectors, two ⁄2" cap pieces, two ⁄8" × 24" Woven length: 26". coming apart when it is not warped.) threaded rods (20 threads/inch), 8 nuts to fit Finished size: hatband Using a ruler, measure from washer to threaded rod, 4 washers with bigger outside 3 ⁄4" × 26" plus 5" braided washer to check that both sides of the loom diameter than ends of T connectors, trans- fringe at each end. 1 are the same length. The measurements parent tape, 2 packages of ⁄4" elastic cord. 1 should be within ⁄8" of each other. 2 Guide to © F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com piece cross- 3 in aweekend! made be loom can inkle portable small, This Guide to InkleWeaving front piece shed rod © F+ or all pages in this issue to be copied f copied to be issue this in pages all or Media, I W Media, laminate sample shuttlefrom nc. A nc. castle ll rights reserved. F+ reserved. rights ll heddle rod transport and reassemble itlater. loom sothatyou cantake for theloomapart reconnect. Donotuseany glue to assemble the wrap theendofpipewithtransparent tapeand you theloomupandconnections lift separate, P Lay theCPVC pieces outinthepositionsshown. order: Assembly ush theCPVC connections together snugly. If or personal use. weavingtoday.co use. personal or Media grants per grants W Media threaded rod crosspiece m ission f ission backpiece or any any or m

Project 1. Threading W B B W B B B B B B B B W B B W open W B B W W W W W W W W W W W B B W heddle 2. Pick-up (Discard the extra black thread.) pattern

end Tie 20 heddles (3 extra for re- the castle upright. Slip one end To weave the pattern: Copy pw and enlarge the graph in Figure 1 pairs or other projects) around of each string heddle around 6 D D D D the castle upright (Photo c) with the heddle rod, pass the dou- 2 so you can read it easily and D D a surgeon’s knot (a square knot bled string of the loop over one use a marker to check off each D D D D with two twists on the first half). warp thread in the lower shed, row. Weave the pattern repeat D D D D then pass the other end of the for about 25" or the length nec- Taping the ends on the bottom loop around the heddle rod essary for your use. The graph D D D D front cross piece with 6" tails at (Photo f). Continue, taking shows only warp threads 10–25 D D D D 2 start and finish, wind a continu- threads from the lower shed in (count them from the right); D D D D ous warp of 34 ends holding 1 order and making sure you the others are controlled by the D D

black/1 white together and keep- catch only one thread at a time. sheds and not the pick-up D D D D

ing a finger between them; do Then carefully slide the heddle stick. The first few rows will D D not cross threads as you wind. rod back to the bottom of the look strange the first time D D D D castle and secure it with the through. Stop for breaks only D D D D Weave in popsicle sticks (Photo elastics (Photo b). between “S” motifs (it takes 10 d), picking up the sheds by hand to 15 minutes to weave each D D D D 3 D D D D and changing the black/white Cut a from laminate sam- one). End with 1" plain weave alternate order to match Figure 5 ple (see page 3). Weave at least and hemstitch as at the begin- D D D D D D 1. Slide sticks to bottom of loom 7" plain weave with popsicle ning. Weave another 7" of pop- repeat

frame, smoothing the threads. sticks to preserve the fringe. sicle sticks for fringe and then D D D D

Discard the extra black thread Weave 1" plain weave with weave the remaining warp for D D and tie together end tails. white weft (the heddle rod in bookmarks or samples. D D D D the down position lowers the D D D D Attach and secure the shed rod mostly light warp threads so Remove the band from the (Photo e). Push the lower shed the mostly dark threads are on loom. Divide the warp threads D D D D 4 7 D D D D down. Insert popsicle sticks to top; the heddle rod released into two halves, then do a 3- or keep the shed down while you and the shed stick moved for- 4-strand braid with each half D D D D are working. Loosen the heddle ward raises the mostly light and secure with an overhand D D

rod from its elastic (Photo b) threads). Hemstitch over the knot, matching all braids for D D D D

and place it about halfway be- first 2 rows. Then weave the length and knot placement; pw

tween the end of the loom and hatband following Figure 2. trim ends evenly. start

thread up in regular shed (heddle down) a b c thread up in regular shed using shed stick thread brought up with pick-up stick D thread pushed down with pick-up stick

Assembly and warping a. Assembled frame and place- d e f ment of elastics, b. the heddle rod, c. the heddles tied around castle (the loom is weighted with a large telephone book), d. sheds to straighten thread order, e. the shed rod, f. the position for heddle rod during threading. haron K ersten y S haron hotos b P hotos

4 Guide to Inkle Weaving © F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com Stars Stripes Inkle-Band Pins Amy Abbott & Originally Published in Handwoven, March-April 2002

fter the tragic events of Septem- Many thanks to our readers for sharing ber 11th, I wanted to do some- creative patriotic fabric projects with us. A thing to help lift the spirits of the members of my teachers’ team. I de- cided to make patriotic pins. There were already many pins of the crossed ribbon style being worn, but since I was plan- ning to weave an inkle band for at least fifteen pins, I knew I needed a style that would conserve band length. With this in mind, I designed a bar-style pin. Using the basic principles of inkle de- sign, I created a pattern of “stars” (a sin- gle thread of white between two threads of blue) on one half of the band with stripes of red and white on the other. The weaving is simply a matter of alter- nating sheds. As I began to weave the band, I was very pleased with the stylized outcome. My colleagues, too, were pleased, and so many other teachers in my school have requested pins that I have now made nearly ninety of them!

Weaving the band This is a very flexible project. It can be woven in 5/2 pearl cotton, as given in Project at-a- PROJECT at-a-glance glance, but doubled 10/2 pearl cotton would Weave structure for band Warp order and length work as well. You can use any kind of loom Warp-faced plain weave. 41 ends, 2½ yd long for shaft loom, to weave the band. Wind the warp and prepare the loom fol- Equipment 2 yd long for inkle loom. lowing Figure 1 and the directions in Project Inkle loom or 2- or 4-shaft loom (warp spacing at-a-glance. If you are using an inkle loom, you width is ¾"); 12-dent ; 1 shuttle. Warp: 54 epi (4-5 in a 12-dent reed). will need only a 2-yard warp. For a shaft loom, Width in reed: ¾". Weft: 10 ppi. wind a 2½-yd warp to allow for the ­additional Warp: 5/2 pearl cotton (2,100 yd/lb), Notions and other materials loom waste. blue, 30 yd; natural, 35 yd; red, 38 Scraps of chip board (a cardboard yd. available at craft stores), heavy drawing Weft: 5/2 pearl cotton (2,100 yd/lb), paper, craft glue, 16–18 one-inch pin Amy Abbott lives in blue, 14 yd. backs, hot glue gun. Tulsa, Oklahoma. When she isn’t weaving, sources Take-up spinning, knitting, or 5/2 pearl cotton is available from most 0% in width, 11% length. Amounts pro- being a mom, she teaches retailers. duce a band ¾" × 55" (16–18 pins). elementary school art.

5 Guide to Inkle Weaving © F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com Stars & Stripes Inkle-Band Pins

Since the warp in this warp-faced band is quite dense, if you are using a 4-shaft loom, Weave the fabric for the thread 1-2-3-4 to spread the threads among all flag pins on an inkle loom or a shaft loom. The fabric is quick to weave and the pins 1. Warp 5x 3x are easy to make. These pins color 12 2 2 blue 14 1 3 white make great gifts for guild or order 15 5 red 41 study group members—or for other friends!

the shafts. This will make the sheds easier to open than they are when threads are crowded on shafts 1 and 2. The blue and white “stars” form the upper part of the pin. Although the weft doesn’t show in the band, a blue weft is recom- mended so it won’t peek through at the top selvedge. Place the weft flat in the shed and keep band width at an even ¾". Weave ap- proximately 55" (the 11% take-up occurs on the loom), remove from the loom, and press.

Assembling the pins To assemble the pins, you’ll need the sup- plies listed in Project at-a-glance. For each pin: Cut a piece of chip board 2" long and a tiny bit narrower than the width of your woven band. Cut a piece of band 3" long. With the band lying on the work surface wrong side up, spread the craft glue on the piece of chip board and carefully center the chip board on the band. Let the glue dry for a minute. Next, apply a bead of glue to each end of the band (this can get a little messy) and fold the ends to the back of the pin. Squish the ends around a little and coax the raw edges in so they can’t be seen from the front. Allow glue to dry completely. I sandwiched my pins between two layers of waxed paper and dried them under heavy books. Cut heavy drawing paper a little smaller than each pin and glue it to the back, covering the raw fabric edges. Allow to dry completely. With hot glue, at- tach a pin back horizontally to the back of each pin near the top edge.

6 Guide to Inkle Weaving © F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com inkle-loom Project Originally Published in Handwoven, September-October 2008

christi eales ehler Bands, bands, bands,

structure and more bands! Warp-faced plain weave. for belts, bookmarks, straps, handles, and trims Equipment in colors inspired by Guatemalan jaspe cloth Inkle loom, belt shuttle. Yarns Warp for apron straps: 10/2 Jaspe is the Guatemalan term for . These inkle-woven bands pearl cotton (4,200 yd/ lb, UKI), Navy, Silver, Dark take advantage of the unique design principles of Guatemalan Sierra, Purple Passion, jaspe fabrics as well as their rich and glorious rainbows of colors. Yellow, and Cobalt. Warp for belt (second band from left in the photo y daughter can see the speedometer from on this page): 5/2 pearl Mher aisle seat. “It’s reading zero,” she cotton (2,100 yd/lb, UKI), reports. That makes us laugh, but as we hurtle Cobalt, Black, Flaxon, Bali, around another sharp curve, I offer a silent Garnet, Deep Lilac, Hunt- addition to the religious petitions adorning the er, and Gold. dashboard—may diós protect not just this bus Weft for apron straps, driver but all the passengers, too! 10/2 pearl cotton, Navy. It’s Tuesday, market day in Salcajá, a major Weft for belt: 5/2 pearl weaving center in the western highlands of cotton, Cobalt. Guatemala. That’s where we’re headed, bumping Warp length over dusty roads in a retired U.S. school bus 63 ends 116" long for turned public transport, squashed three to a seat apron straps, 72 ends 88" with a lot of local folks who share our destination. long for belt. We’ve come to Quetzaltenango, Guatemala, to study Spanish, and I’ve made it a point to setts work into my conversational practice at Warp for apron straps: the language school. Salcajá is the place my about 70 epi. Warp for tutor told me to look for a kind of cloth I’d been belt: about 52 epi. admiring: jaspe. Because jaspe is popular for Weft for apron straps: 13 the traditional skirts—called corte—worn daily ppi. Weft for belt: 10 ppi. by indigenous Mayan women, the best quality Dimensions fabric is found where the Guatemalans shop, 7 Finished sizes: ⁄8" × 94" not in tourist markets. for apron straps; Our trip inspired a lifetime of weaving 3 1 ⁄8" × 68" for belt. ideas—these bands are just the beginning.

7 Guide to Inkle Weaving © F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com ideal projects for experimenting with color. with ideal for projects experimenting make bandsand belts Inkle-woven 8 Guide to InkleWeaving © F or all pa all or +W M edia, I edia, g es in this issue to be copied for personal use. w use. personal for copied to be issue this in es nc. A nc. ll ri ll g hts reserved. F reserved. hts +W M edia g edia rants permission for any any for permission rants eavin g today.com

Project 1a. Warp color order for apron straps 2a. Warp color order for belt (second band from left, page 7)

4 2 2 Cobalt (C) 2 2 Gold (G) 4 2 2 Yellow (Y) 8 44Hunter (H) 8 44Purple Passion (P) 10 4 2 4 Deep Lilac (L) 4 2 2 Dark Sierra (D) 10 4 2 4 Garnet (R) 7 111 1 1 1 1 Silver (S) 10 4 2 4 Bali (B) 36 2 2 2 2 2 2 4 2 2 4 2 2 2 2 2 2 Navy (N) 8 1 111 1 1 1 1 Flaxon (F) 63 8 1 1 1 1 1 111 Black (K) 16 4444Cobalt (C) 72 1b. Threading for apron straps heddle N SDN N N P P N Y N C N N S N 2b. Threading for belt open N N DPN S N P N Y N C N N N S* 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x 2x heddle C K B R L H FFC B L G R C H L R B K C N S N N C N Y N P P N N D N S N heddle open C F B R L H K C B L G R C K H L R BFC NSN N C N Y N P P N N D N N open S* = center thread

Warp an inkle loom under moder- the shed. Then tug it firmly. Check 1 ate tension following the color and weaving width often with a ruler or Design Ideas from Jaspe Cloth threading order for apron straps or seam gauge. To maintain a consis- First choose a solid dark background color. belt using the heddle method you tent beat, loosen the tension slight- Next, select several different contrasting prefer. I like to use double-loop ly after every inch or two of weav- colors of similar value for narrow stripes heddles (see Inkle-Loom Tips), ing. and a light color for the dashes to suggest placing them as I wind on each the jaspe (ikat) effects. pair of warp threads. Note that the 3 Cut the warp threads close to the For stripes and dashes: Start with a design specific required yardage is not end of the warp, reserving loom unit of 2 warp ends for each colored stripe given for each yarn since the waste for fringe, if desired. Wash and 1 end for each dash. Set every stripe or amounts are small and the exact with mild soap in warm water with dash off by at least 2 ends of the back- yardage will depend on the poten- a cool rinse. Roll in a towel to blot ground color. Always check stripe color and tial warp length of your inkle loom. excess water, and dry by air or ma- proportion with a yarn wrap. Note also that you can weave chine, removing before complete- these pieces on a floor loom—sim- ly dry. Machine zigzag or serge the ply remove the reed, thread for raw ends of the band when cutting plain weave, and use the belt shut- it into segments. tle as a . 4 Sew apron straps onto an apron as Wind a belt shuttle with the weft desired. I copied a favorite apron to 2 yarn and weave the band in plain make a pattern to use with the weave. Use the beveled edge of the jaspe fabric that inspired the strap shuttle to beat after changing sheds. design. For the belt, I sewed two For a smooth selvedge, hold the D-rings by hand to one end and fin- weft loop with your non-shuttle ished the other end with a 3" twist- hand during each pick, applying a ed fringe. You can use these bands small amount of tension until the for bookmarks or straps for totes—­ weft is pulled all the way through or how about handwoven basket straps?

Inkle-Loom Tips Read inkle threading drafts from left to right since the loom is threaded from the base of the peg outward. To determine the maximum yardage you can produce on your inkle loom: 1. Measure the warping path. 2. Subtract 12" for the portion of warp that cannot be woven (loom waste). 3. The maximum yardage is 90% of the measurement you calculated in eales ehler y christi Step 2 (multiply by .9). hotos b P hotos

9 Guide to Inkle Weaving © F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com inkle-loom project Pincushion and straps Originally Published in Handwoven, November-December 2008

structure amy abbott Warp-faced plain weave. Equipment Inkle loom with pegs at least 5" long; 75 string heddles (5 A pincushion necklace heddles for trim); 2 belt shut- tles; large-eyed sewing needle. Yarns for you or your loom Warp: 5/2 pearl cotton (2,100 yd/lb, Halcyon Yarn), a wide inkle-woven band is divided into two Lipstick, 85 yd; Melon, 75 narrower bands to make handy hanging straps. yd; Soldier Blue, 123 yd; Ruby, 95 yd. Weft: 5/2 pearl cotton, Lipstick, 40 yd. Other Supplies The unique split straps and the tubular inkle-woven trim make this 1 ⁄4 yd lightweight fusible project an interesting departure from traditional inkle bands. interfacing; polyfill stuffing.

Warp length 5x 8x 5x 1. Warp Ruby 1 2 13112 1 2 8 151 ends 2 ⁄2 yd long for two color Soldier Blue 2 221 2 1 2 2 49 Melon 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 30 pincushions (allows 18" for order Lipstick 6 1 6 6 1 6 34 151 fringe, 7" for take-up, 15" for 2. Threading Because inkle are warped from left to right, read these drafts from left to right. loom waste and sampling). 3x 5x 3x 4x 3x 5x 3x heddle setts open Warp: 60 epi. Weft: 10 ppi. For the pincushions and straps: Thread an Handwash the pincushion/strap fabric gently in 1 Dimensions 1 inkle loom with 151 ends 2 ⁄2 yd long following 4 warm water with mild soap. Rinse in cool water. 1 Figures 1 and 2. (Attach the heddles as you Roll in a towel and then dry flat. Unbraid fringe Weaving width: 2 ⁄2". Woven length: 25" each warp or after winding every inch or so, since it and cut apart at the bottom of the second pin- can be difficult to attach them to such a wide, cushion section. For each pincushion section, cut pincushion and straps. 1 dense warp after it is completely wound.) lightweight fusible interfacing slightly smaller Finished size: 2 ⁄2" × 3" than the fabric and fuse to wrong sides. Trim raw each pincushion with straps 3 4 1 1 Sample first to establish width and beat (a wide edge. Turn this edge under ⁄ " and then fold the 1 ⁄4" × 16 ⁄2" and 5" fringe band requires a very firm beat). Weave 7" for section in half (interfacing inside), bringing the end of straps. 2 the first pincushion. To weave the straps, divide folded edge to just below the straps. With 5/2 Tubular trim the warp in half (75 and 76 threads). Bind one Lipstick, handsew sides securely, leaving the top half with a bit of string to keep the halves sepa- open. structure rate (photo a) and begin weaving the other half. When it’s time to advance the warp, unwrap the Attach the tubular trim: Tuck one end of the Tubular plain weave. other half and weave it using the second shuttle. 5 inkle-woven tube into the pocket (photo b). Yarns When the woven halves are equal in length, ad- Sew the tube to the side, bottom, and other vance the warp. Continue, alternating between side. Tuck the other end of the tube into the Warp and weft: 5/2 pearl straps until they measure 18". Allowing 9" for pocket. Stuff the pocket with polyfill and sew cotton, Lipstick, 17 yd. fringe, repeat for a second pincushion and the top closed, securing the ends of the trim. Warp length straps. Cut the warp from the loom in the sam- 1 pling area; machine stitch raw edge. To prevent Join the ends of the straps, making sure they 11 ends 1 ⁄2 yd long (4" take- tangling during finishing, braid the fringe loose- hang properly. Take a bundle of 8 or 9 warp up, 14" loom waste). ly. 6 threads from each strap and tie them together setts firmly in a square knot, joining the edges of the 1 For the tubular trim: Wind 11 ends Lipstick 1 ⁄2 yd straps. Continue until all warp ends are secured Weft: 8–10 ppi. long. Weave a tube 1 yd long with Lipstick by al- in this manner. Then twist the threads from Dimensions 3 ways inserting the shuttle from the same side each bundle into a twisted fringe and secure 3 and drawing the weft up tightly. ends with an overhand knot. ⁄8" × 1 yd.

10 Guide to Inkle Weaving © F+W Media, Inc. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this issue to be copied for personal use. weavingtoday.com Photos by amy abbott 11 Guide to InkleWeaving you’re weaving. separate from theside warp threads to keep them the straps, tieoffhalfofthe a. Whenyou weaving start © F+ or all pages in this issue to be copied f copied to be issue this in pages all or W M edia, I edia, pocket, and stitch thepocket closed. the second endinto thepocket, stuffthe the bottom, anduptheotherside).T to thepocket (down oneside,across pincushion pocket andstitch thetubing b. T nc. A nc. uck one end of the tubing into the uck oneendofthetubinginto the ll rights reserved. F+ reserved. rights ll such awideband. longer to accommodate inkle loomwith5"pegsor c. T his project requires an or personal use. weavingtoday.com use. personal or W M edia grants permission f permission grants edia uck uck loom. castle ofyour it from the neck orhang around your pincushion d. W ear the ear the or any any or Project 12 Guide to InkleWeaving

JOE COCA Inkle Bag foraMini Tablet © F+W MEDIA, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. F+W MEDIA GRANTS PERMISSION FOR ANY ANY FOR PERMISSION GRANTS MEDIA F+W RESERVED. RIGHTS ALL INC. MEDIA, © F+W TRUDY SONIA OR ALL PAGES IN THIS ISSUE TO BE COPIED FOR PERSONAL USE. WEAVINGTODAY.COM USE. PERSONAL FOR COPIED TO BE ISSUE THIS IN PAGES ALL OR ple Blue,124yd. Weft: 5/2mercerized pearlcotton, 5-Pur 10-Yellow Red, 78yd. Blue, 522yd;5-Green Yellow, 134yd; (2,100 yd/lb;LunaticFringe),5-Purple Warp: YARNS tle. 15 heddlesforstrap/closure; beltshut- heddles foreachof2bodylengths; Inkle loom,5"weavingwidth;97 EQUIPMENT Warp-faced plainweave. STRUCTURE MINI TABLETBAG Weaving width:3¼"forbody; DIMENSIONS strap. Weft: 10ppiforbody;16 SETT waste). allow 12–13"fortake-upandloom 108" (3yd)long2.(Allthree warps 60"; forstrapandclosure, 29ends For eachof2bodywarps,193ends WARP LENGTH ton. sewing needles,2–2½"decorativebut- bias tape,zigzagsewingmachine; Matching sewingthread; single-fold OTHER SUPPLIES strap andclosure, fabric, twolengths3¼"×42"each; Finished sizeafterwashing:bagbody body warps;95"forstrapandclosure. sion ontheloom):48"foreachof2 Woven length(measuredunderten- strap andclosure. 5/2 mercerized pearlcotton 5 ⁄ 8 " ×82". 5 ⁄ 8 " for -

WEAVING ASSEMBLING THE TABLET 3. Tablet bag bias tape fold assembly BAG For the body of the bag, wind a warp of 193 ends onto an inkle loom, following the bias tape 1 Trim both pieces of the body band to 42". color order and threading in Figure 1. Note Stitch the two bands together lengthwise that warp capacity varies, depending on 1 with a zigzag stitch to make a fabric about the inkle loom used. Warp lengths and 6½" wide. Cut the band for the strap into yardage amounts given are for the mini- two pieces, 72" and 10", respectively, for the mum length required. For the tablet bag strap and closure. Zigzag all cut ends, iden- body, you will need to warp and weave the tify the right sides, and mark them. body inkle band twice. Cut two pieces of commercial single-fold Wind a belt shuttle with 5-Purple Blue. 2 bias tape 1" wider than the body piece 2 (7½"). Right sides and raw edges together, Weave at least 48" in warp-faced plain pin a piece of bias tape onto each end of body: 2 strips 3 weave for each strip of the bag fabric. Keep the bag body, allowing a ½" “tail” on both 42" long your tension even and maintain a consis- stitched sides. Machine sew the bias tape in place together tent weaving width of 3¼". Beat firmly to with a ¼" seam. (Trudy handsews every- lengthwise achieve 10 ppi. thing after this step.) Bring the fold of the bias tape over the raw edges of the bag For the strap and closure, warp 29 ends body to the wrong side, tuck the ends of 4 onto an inkle loom, following the color the bias tape in at the edges, and sew the order and threading in Figure 2. remaining fold of the bias tape to the wrong side of the bag body piece. The bias 5 Wind a belt shuttle with 5-Purple Blue. tape will be visible on the wrong side only. Weave at least 95" in warp-faced plain Fold the body piece in half, wrong sides weave. Keep your tension even and main- together making sure that the bias tape is 6 5 3 tain a consistent weaving width of ⁄8". Beat on the inside (Figure 3). You now have two fold Line firmly for 16 ppi. layers of the bag body. The fold will be- come the edge of the front flap of the bag, To finish the bands, cut them from the where the closure strap will be placed. 7 loom as you finish weaving, trim off the Where the two layers come together at the fringe, and zigzag the raw edges to prevent bias-taped edges, a smaller pocket opening raveling. Machine wash and dry, then press. will form once the bag is assembled. (The bands will take up significantly in length, but not width, after they are washed.)

1. Body draft 17x 3x 17x 2x 2x 2x 17x 3x 17x Heddled 97 ends Unheddled 96 ends

5-Purple Blue: 146 ends Note: Read inkle drafts from left to right, as they are threaded. 5-Green Yellow: 29 ends Wind two warps at least 60" long, and weave each one at least 48" long. 10-Yellow Red: 18 ends 193 ends total

2. Strap draft

Heddled 15 ends Unheddled 14 ends

5-Purple Blue: 11 ends 5-Green Yellow: 12 ends 10-Yellow Red: 6 ends bias tape 29 ends total Read inkle drafts from left to right, as they are threaded. Wind a warp 108" long, and weave at least 95".

13 Guide to Inkle Weaving © F+W MEDIA, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. F+W MEDIA GRANTS PERMISSION FOR ANY OR ALL PAGES IN THIS ISSUE TO BE COPIED FOR PERSONAL USE. WEAVINGTODAY.COM Measure 8" from the end with the bias tape. Starting with the bias-taped edges, Starting where the shoulder strap emerges 4 Place the top selvedge of the strap at this 5 whipstitch the two layers together along 7 from the body of the bag, pull the edge of measurement on both sides, inserting ½" the selvedges of each side of the bag body. the strap toward the bag opening (the end of each end between the two layers of the Change to a running stitch where the with the bias-taped edges). Wrong sides bag body. Pin the strap into place, making straps emerge from the bag body, securing together, whipstitch the selvedge of the sure not to introduce a twist in the strap. them between the layers of the bag. Rein- strap to the front of the bag body, making The straps are correctly aligned if they both force the opening and the strap join with sure you reinforce the stitching at the bias start on the same ridge on the bag body overstitching. tape. Do the same with the strap on the (Figure 4). other side of the bag (Figure 5). Sew the button on 4¼" from the open 6 pocket, catching only the top layer of the Being careful to keep the base as square as front bag. 8 possible, sew the strap to the back of the bag, whipstitching the selvedge of the strap to the edge of the body, as you did in the previous step. Stop sewing the pieces together at the opening. Reinforce the stitching at the opening. Pull the flap to the front of the bag.

Fold the closure strap so it easily reaches 9 the button, making sure you’ve left space for the device and any peripherals kept in initial fold the bag. If necessary, trim the excess from 4. Tablet strap becomes the closure band. Sew the raw edges of the edge of ap 5 assembly strap under ⁄8" or so, then attach the strap to the bottom side of the flap and sew into place, making sure stitches aren’t visible on the front of the flap.

5. Tablet pouch assembly

closure

initial fold

strap placement line: 8" from bias-taped ends

bias-taped ends (inner pocket)

bias tape to inside bias-taped ends become second pocket opening Strap forms sides of pouch button for strap for closure mini-tablet pouch

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