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THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY
J o u r n a l
Number 28
2004 37905 Britain Nepal 28 COVERS:37905 Britain Nepal 28 COVERS 20/10/11 09:59 Page 4
ACORN Nepal Trust (Aid for Children of Rural Nepal and Educational Trust) Charitable Society Regd. No. 701/1999
President Rtn. Hari Bivor Karki
Vice-President Prof. Dr. Bharat B. Karki
Secretary Anjela Nepal Karki
Treasurer Mrs. Bimala Katuwal
Executive Members Dr. Yagya B. Karki Mrs. Shova Subedi Mrs. Sushila Khadka
Hon. Members Lady Morris of Kenwood Rtn. Gerald Hughes Mr. Brian Mayhew Ms. Diana Reason Dr Abhiram Bahadur Singh
Founder President Main Office U.K. Contact Prof. Dr. Bharat B. Karki Rtn. H.B. Karki PLEASE WRITE TO: The Gurkha Welfare Trust, PO Box 18215, 2nd Floor, Balkhu, Ring Road, Kathmandu - 14 21 Victoria Road, Aldershot 1 Old Street, London EC1V 9XB, telephone us on 020 7251 5234 Tel: 279762, Post Box: 3046 Hampshire GU11 1TQ or e-mail [email protected] Registered charity No. 1103669 Fax: 977-1-282688 Tel/Fax: 01252 316058 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:57 Page 1
THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY
Journal Number 28 2004
CONTENTS
2 Editorial 4 The Society’s News 8 Of Gompas, Chortens, Mani Walls and Yaks – A Trek through Mustang and Dolpo (concluded) 22 Britain – Nepal Medical Trust – An Update 27 Nepal’s Lost Children 31 The Nepalese Nettle Project 37 Faith of Their Fathers 40 A Rai Wedding 44 From the Editor’s In-Tray 48 Book Reviews 53 Obituaries 58 Important Addresses 59 Notes on the Britain – Nepal Society 60 Officers and Committee of the Society
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EDITORIAL
The year 2004 has seen the continuation seems well away from the insurgency. of the Maoist insurgency with seemingly Dolpo is a little visited area and remnants little progress towards a solution. The so of the pre-Buddhist Bon-po religion called ‘war against terror’ has also had (swastikas reversed) can still be found. adverse impacts upon Nepal. The Mark Temple compares Rai wedding senseless murder of the twelve Nepali rituals in both Dharan and in an east workers in Iraq attracted worldwide Nepal village. Susi Dunsmore has condemnation. Unfortunately the slaughter contributed an article on the allo or nettle of children by Chechen rebels within project that seeks to help the local hours rather overshadowed this atrocity. population make something really The subsequent backlash against the worthwhile from their local natural Muslim population in Kathmandu merely resources. During the year the Society added to the general misery of the provided a platform for two important situation. More recently a number of ex- charities by inviting them to give lectures Gurkha soldiers were killed in an incident about their work in Nepal. The Britain- whilst guarding the ‘Green Zone’ in Nepal Medical Trust is relatively well Baghdad. It is understood that tourism, known to the Society but over the years whilst well down on normal levels, has their work has moved on to take account risen slightly. Most people of my of changes that have occurred in their area acquaintance who have made trips report of operations in east Nepal. A new charity, that they were able to enjoy their visits, the Esther Benjamin’s Trust has taken on Maoists notwithstanding. The insurgents the task of rescuing Nepali children that have not overly interfered with tourists, have been abducted from Nepal to work in restricting themselves, in the main, to circuses that tour around India, and asking for cash contributions of around children of parents that have been NCRs 1000 (approximately £10) from imprisoned in Nepal but have to remain each trekker. The work of the Gurkha with them as there is no other provision Welfare Trust has also continued without for such children. Articles based on these any serious interruptions. In a recent lectures have been included, along with speech to the Gurkha Brigade Association, details of the contacts, should any member Sir John Chapple described the Nepalese wish to contribute to their work. as ‘remarkably stoical’ in the face of the Following an idea from a past present situation. committee member, I, with the committee, The continuing friendship between our are looking at the possibility of producing two countries, the present situation a small publication to mark the Society’s notwithstanding, is well illustrated in the 50th anniversary in 2010. The initial article by John Burlison in which he thoughts are for an A5 sized booklet that describes the 2nd Gurkha Rifles would be both a short history and a digest Regimental reunion that took place in of articles over the first fifty years. Once Pokhara. The second and concluding part an outline has been set a small editorial of the report by Anne Cowan on the trek board will be established to flesh out the that she and General Sir Sam Cowan detail and this is where members may well carried out in the remote Dolpo area be able to assist. However before this
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stage it will be essential that Society edition. Also thanks are due to those who archives are available. If members have support the journal by their advertising material that may be useful for this work revenue. We are always looking for more or for the Society in general, may I ask advertisers so any members who wish to that you contact the archivist, Mrs Celia use this medium for advertising or know Brown. Details of how to do this are of any firm or organization that would be shown below. interested, are encouraged to contact Dr Finally, and as always, my thanks go to Peter Trott. Details are given on page 52. all those who have contributed to this
THE ARCHIVIST
Mrs. Celia Brown has agreed to take on appreciate it if members could let her the task of collecting archival material and know what they have available. in obtaining where possible, brief Her address is: 1 Allen Mansions, Allen memoirs. She would like to hear from Street, London W8 6UY and anyone who may wish to contribute. email:[email protected] However, in the first instance she would
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THE SOCIETY’S NEWS By Pat Mellor Honorary Secretary Once again, we have been privileged to Health Care in Nepal’. Dr Holdsworth’s be able to hold our AGM at the Royal talk on this subject, with such interesting Nepalese Embassy, and HE the and beautiful slides, was well received by Ambassador has also allowed the Society all the members attending. to hold executive committee meetings Tuesday, 30th March Philip Holmes of there too. This AGM really was my last the Esther Benjamin’s Trust, gave a talk as secretary and I am handing over to Mr on ‘Helping Nepal’s Marginalised Neil Weir. Neil is a long standing Children’ and he outlined the background member of the Society and I am sure that of the charity which he has set up and many members already know him well gave the members an insight into the and that all members will appreciate his work that he and his wonderful helpers great enthusiasm and interest in being are giving in the rehabilitation of the your secretary. He started the Britain marginalised children, some from prisons Nepal Otology Service (BRINOS) and and now, many Nepali children who have most years takes a party of doctors to been working in Indian Circuses. This Nepal to set up a clinic and diagnose and talk was much appreciated by members operate on people suffering from ear and I am pleased to confirm that the problems. Neil Weir’s address and Society has made a donation to this telephone number are elsewhere in this charity. (An article based on this lecture Journal. I am remaining as membership is elsewhere in the journal. Ed.) secretary and will look after any membership queries.
Brig Taggart, Mrs Hickey, Maj Dudley Spain and Mrs Iris Bolton at the Supper.
Tuesday, 22nd June, Mr Chris Evans of Mrs Celia Brown and Mrs Marian the Jajarkot Perm culture Project & Donaldson preparing flowers for the Himalayan Permaculture Group, gave a supper. most fascinating and informative talk entitled ‘Forty Farmers’ Favourites – LECTURES Sustaining Agriculture in the Himalayas’. In 2004 the Society was able to hold four It was very interesting to hear and see on lectures at the Society of Antiquaries. the slides, how with advice and help, the On Monday, 19th January, Dr Gillian farmers who live in such inaccessible Holdsworth of the Britain Nepal Medical places can improve their methods to help Trust gave a talk entitled ‘30 Years of themselves. It makes so much difference
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to receive advice in a warm and helpful be held at the Royal Nepalese Embassy way. on the 8th December 2004. Our grateful thanks go to all of these excellent speakers who gave us their time, shared their knowledge and showed beautiful slides. We look forward to meeting them again and thanking them personally at the Annual Nepali Supper on 17th February 2005
Mr Anthony Wieler, FM Sir John Chapple with Philip Holmes and Beverley Waymark of the Esther Benjamin Trust at the Supper. Finally, we were privileged to have Dr Ramesh Dhungel of SOAS to a talk on Mustang, entitled ‘Lo/Mustang: Historical and General Reflections’. We were all impressed by the wonderful slides of the Mustang of twenty years ago. His interesting talk covered both the historical aspect as well as the current problems. We were privileged to be able to welcome HE Mr Prabal SJB Rana and the HE the Nepalese Ambassador and the Chairman at the Supper. Minister Counsellor, Mr Bista, to this talk. The dates for 2005 at the Society of Antiquaries have already been booked, although speakers have not yet finalized their dates. The dates are as follows: Tuesday, 1st February Monday, 21st March Monday, 6th June Tuesday, 4th October
All the above lectures are planned take Maj Dudley Spain and Lt Col Alistair place at the Society of Antiquaries, Langlands with the Queen’s Gurkha Burlington House, Piccadilly, London. At Orderly Officers at the Supper. the same time, I would like to make my usual reminder about parking outside the By the time you receive this journal, Society, which is very restricted. If we will have already heard a lecture given anyone wishes to bring their car to the by David Waterhouse on his book about Society, they should phone the Secretary Brian Houghton Hodgson, which is due to first (020 7479 7080) and she will be
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pleased to issue a parking pass subject to availability. This availability is only for up to 2 cars, and that includes their own staff. It is therefore not feasible for members to bring their cars on the ‘off chance’ of parking at Burlington House.
ANNUAL NEPALI SUPPER As usual, the Supper was held at St Columba’s Church of Scotland Hall in Marian Donaldson, John Ackroyd, Neil Pont Street on the 17th February, with Weir and the Ambassador at the picnic in approximately 160 people attending. We the Ranelagh Gardens at the Royal were honoured to have HE the Royal Hospital. Nepalese Ambassador as the speaker and guest of honour. He spoke with deep Royal Hospital Chelsea. They very feeling of the situation in Nepal, and also kindly allowed us into their grounds in reminded members of the fact that he was the morning, so that we could settle one of the original founder members of ourselves down in the lovely Ranelagh the Society. This was a very happy and Gardens in readiness for a Nepalese curry successful evening and we were glad to lunch, which was supplied from the back welcome a piper from the Queen’s of the Munal Restaurant’s van. This was Gurkha Signals to play during the evening much appreciated by the 70 members and two orderlies from the Royal Gurkha who attended, which included HE the Rifles who efficiently looked after the bar. Royal Nepalese Ambassador, and the Also we were very happy to welcome the Minister Counsellor, Mr Bista. We also two Queen’s Own Gurkha Orderly had with us one of the Chelsea Officers as our guests. Pensioners, Etienne Boileau, who has a connection with the Gurkhas, having SUMMER OUTING served in Malaya with the Gurkha Army The Summer Outing this year was held on Service Corps. After lunch two very smart Sunday, 27th June, when, with Colonel Chelsea Pensioners arrived to give us a John Swanston’s help and introductions to guided tour all around the Royal Hospital. the right people, we were able to visit the With patience and much good humour, they guided us all round that amazing and
Mr Harish Karki, the Chairman, the Ambassador and Mrs Pat Mellor with Mr Boileau, an In-pensioner, at the Royal Members enjoying the ‘curry picnic’ in Hospital. the Ranelagh Gardens. 6 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:57 Page 7
The tour of the Royal Hospital about to start led by an In-pensioner guide. The Ding Hall of the Royal Hospital. wonderful building, and were still bright During June, Mr Peter Leggatt, a vice- and breezy at the end, whereas we were president, entertained Mr and Mrs Pande only too ready for a cup of tea which we to lunch at which I was present, as I had obtained at the Army Museum next door, met Mrs Pratima Pande whilst in Nepal. before some of us took the opportunity of We had a very pleasant time and heard looking around there too. It was a very news of Nepal, and of the Nepal-Britain happy and interesting summer outing, and Society, of which Mrs Pande is President. the Society was able to make a donation to the Royal Hospital of £200 given by SOCIETY TIES the members who attended. Mr David Jefford is still looking after the sale of the Society ties. The price of OTHER MATTERS these ties is £10 each including postage I am pleased to be able to report that a and they may be obtained from David Tea Party was arranged at the Royal Jefford, 20 Longmead, Fleet, Hants GU13 Nepalese Embassy to welcome our 9TR by post or at one of our functions. Patron, HRH Princess Jotshana and Dr Basnyat in April, when they came to ROYAL NEPALESE EMBASSY London after having been with HRH Once again, I wish to point out that so Princess Helen in Bangkok. HE The many of our events and functions would Royal Nepalese Ambassador was out of not be possible without the help, support the country at the time, but had kindly and encouragement of HE the Royal allowed the Britain-Nepal Society to Nepalese Ambassador, and his staff, and arrange this reception at the Embassy, so in particular Mrs Nilia Ranamagar who is that members were able to greet their so unfailingly charming and helpful. Patron. The event was hosted by Mr Bista as Charge d’ Affairs. This was a DEATHS happy occasion when we were all so glad It is with sadness that I have to report that to welcome HRH Princess Jotshana & Dr the following members died during the Basnyat and to say how happy we were to year of 2004: know that HRH Princess Helen was Major General J A R Robertson, CB responding to treatment. We presented CBE DSO* DL flowers to HRH Princess Jotshana with Sir Michael Scott KCVO CMG greetings from all the members of the (See obituaries elsewhere in the Journal. BNS. Ed.)
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OF GOMPAS, CHORTENS, MANI WALLS AND YAKS A TREK THOUGH MUSTANG AND DOLPO By Anne Cowan (During his last year in the Army, We woke in Pokhara ready to go at 7am. General Sir Sam Cowan, Colonel The weather was cloudy but we got away Commandant Brigade of Gurkhas and at 9am. We flew towards Dhorpatan and Lady Cowan were able to undertake straight over where we had been stuck in treks into the remote areas of Upper snow four years before. We flew high Mustang and Dolpo. The 2003 edition of level over two 17,000ft ridges with the the journal featured the leg to Upper pilot on oxygen before landing at a large Mustang. The concluding extract from Army Camp in a beautiful spot at the Lady Cowan’s diary describes their junction of the rivers Suli Gad and Bheri. journey in Dolpo. The literary references The OC, Major Barat met us and looked were selected by General Cowan and the after us for the rest of the day and we photographs were taken by him. Ed.) stayed in the camp overnight. It was decided that we would not be able to get DAY 16 - Friday 4 October - Jomsom hold of enough porters that day, so our to Pokhara departure was delayed. We visited the It was now time to prepare for the move small town of Dunai where the District to Dolpo. Having spent the night in the Headquarters had been attacked and Majesty Hotel in Jomsom, we were looted by 2000 Maoists two years earlier. picked up from the airport at about This involved crossing above the Bheri in 8.30am, and flew to Pokhara. The a two-man basket and a 45 minute walk weather was not good when we arrived along the river. Part of the town was like there so we put off our departure until the an armed camp with a lot of soldiers and next day, and spent the afternoon and police. We met the new Chief District evening in Sandhurst Lodge in the camp, Officer who had been there a week. He getting our clothes washed and building explained that there were no up our strength. The porters were also representatives of the police, army or able to prepare for the next phase of the National Park north of Dunai. We also trek. As this stage, Ramji, the Sirdar, and met the local Judge and Registrar, and the two other porters left us to return to Police Chief and his daughters as we Kathmandu. walked through the town. A helicopter Sam had a useful briefing from the arrived to deliver rice for Dasain, mostly BWO about one of the Gurkha Welfare for the Army and Police. We had our Scheme’s staff who had just been evening meal in the Officers Mess and released after 55 days in the hands of the heard the announcement by the King of Maoists. He had been made to walk very the dismissal of the Prime Minister and long distances in the districts of Rukum his Cabinet. and Rolpo, just south of Dolpo, where we had trekked in 1997. DAY 18 - Sunday 6 October - Dunai to We slept very well that night. Chepka Eventually six porters arrived and we DAY 17 - Saturday 5 October - Dunai decided to start even though it meant
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leaving half our kit behind. We hoped to is a river more beautiful than the upper find some Yaks at our overnight stop. We Suli Gad in early autumn.” set off at 9.50 in beautiful weather, and The colours were wonderful but we within an hour had stopped for lunch at were worried about our complicated Khalrupi. Some of our porters needed logistics! We saw the yaks being being food. We crossed the river twice and brought down from Ringmo which was a stayed overnight in Chepka. We found a great relief. We had a packed lunch in a very basic room. There were four field, while we waited for the porters. children playing around, and soon three When we got to Sumduwa it started of them were singing and dancing. raining quite hard. This is where the Suli We made arrangements to get five yaks Gad meets the Pungmo Khola and to carry our equipment for the duration of becomes the Phoksumdo Khola. It is also the journey and the yak man’s son was a trail junction where a major route from sent off on a pony to collect them from the west along the Pungmo Khola meets near Ringmo; two small dzos (yak cross the main trail east to Tarap which runs breeds) were to carry the equipment for along the east bank of the Phoksumdo the next two days to Ringmo; seven Khola. Our route lay along the west porters were to collect the rest of our bank. On the way we passed a large stuff from the Army Camp and bring it to school where we saw some tents. We Chepka (five of the porters were then heard that some foreign teachers were paid off); and finally the five yaks were helping in the school and living in the to bring it all up to Ringmo. It was a tents. Our guidebook stated that it was complicated arrangement which the Tapilza Cultural School which aims eventually worked. The Maoists had to teach the local language and culture as burned a checkpoint at this small village well as the standard Nepali curriculum six months earlier, and we found they had Eventually, just as it was getting dark, we destroyed another further up, and a small reached a small group of houses beside a army camp nearby. small hospital for Tibetan medicine run with overseas funding. An amchi -a DAY 19 - Monday 7 October - Chepka Tibetan doctor - was in residence. We to near Palam camped in a muddy field and it rained We set off with Purba the cook, two most of the night, but we did have our kitchen porters and the two dzos in meals in one of the rooms nearby. cloudy weather. We crossed the river three times and went through a variety of DAY 20 - Tuesday 8 October - Near terrain. The valley was very steep in Palam to Ringmo places and at one point we descended to It rained all morning, but eventually we the river where the trail was made up of set off at 8.30am at the insistence of our rocks and sticks to form a dyke to walk yak man who was worried about the on. We also passed some empty weather higher up. We climbed past the settlements with houses almost built into destroyed army camp. It started snowing the sandy soil. These are used by the and continued all the way up and over the people of Ringmo in winter. Matthiesson pass. The route was steep and quite tricky had been inspired to write: to follow, and we reached 12,000ft before “I wonder if anywhere on earth there we started to drop down through the
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trees. We heard the large waterfall, but were very small. The man with the dzos we could not see it as we were in cloud. stayed overnight to feed and rest the As we came out of the trees we saw some animals. The weather had improved but yaks and a herder, who confirmed that we there were still clouds around. The Head were on the right track. We arrived in a Lama of the gompa was conducting some snow-covered Ringmo and waited for the ritual in a nearby house and after a chat two porters to arrive an hour later. They with Sam he agreed to show us round the were heavily loaded and did well to get next morning. over the pass in the bad conditions. They found us a room in a small lodge while DAY 21 - Wednesday 9 October - we walked to the lakeside which was Ringmo pretty desolate. When the two dzos It was a sunny day for Sam’s birthday - arrived we found that almost all our and a rest day. At 9am we went off, not with the Head Lama who said he was going south, but with one of his assistants to see the Gompas on the east of the Lake. We walked through pine and silver birch woods near the lake. Despite the Dalai Lama having recently formally accepted the Bonpos - followers of the Bon religion - into the fold of Tibetan Buddhism almost as a fifth order, the notice board said defiantly: Phoksomdo Lake. “Pal Shenten Tgasung Monastery This Bon Monastery was established clothing was wet from the rain and snow; by Treton Tsewang Tsultrim. a depressing moment in our wet state. We Its purpose is to teach Bon religion and had lunch in our room and then went for protect wildlife. a walk. The clouds had lifted and the lake Bon is not just another Buddhist sect, was a wonderful blue. There were several but a separate religion founded ‘National Park Camping Sites’ and By Lori Tonpa Shenrag Mibo in Zhang various facilities near the lake, but none Zheng.” of them had been used for over a year. Bon is the old shamanistic, pre-Buddhist, Apparently there had been two visitors in indigenous religion of Tibet which the spring. We also saw a Gompa on the survived in the more remote areas despite eastern side of the lake. The houses were attempts to root it out. It has influenced square-built, with stabling for horses and Tibetan Buddhism but probably not as yaks on the ground floor. Logs were laid much as Buddhism has influenced it. The horizontally between the layers of stone Bonpas spin their prayer wheel left about at intervals. They were not painted or and pass manis, shrines and chortens on whitewashed. On the edges of the flat the right-hand side. As opposed to Om roofs were packed layers of straw, which Mani Padme Hum, their chief mantra is could be used for livestock when needed. Om Ma Tri Mu Ye Sa Le Du which not The flat roofs were covered with red clay even Snellgrove can fully translate but he to keep out the water and the windows points out that no Tibetan ever stops to
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ponder on the literal meaning of any was very amusing. She said she had mantra: the potency consists in the enough children and asked if we would sounds themselves. like to take her, Kanchi, home with us! At the first Gompa we went upstairs to In the afternoon we went back on the a side room which was the prayer room path we had come along in the cloud. It was now a beautiful day. First, to our great relief, the yaks appeared, bringing the rest of our equipment and stores. Then we climbed through the forest and got a view of a series of huge waterfalls, above which we could see Lake Phoksumdo. We also saw Murwa, the summer residence of the people of Ringmo - each family therefore has three houses in different villages. We returned to Ringmo, and everything was ready for Entrance to the chorten at Ringmo. our trek tomorrow. We were in bed quite early, but Sam was not feeling well - and was very small. The second Gompa probably chilled by our walk through the was similar. The third Gompa had been rain and snow the day before. During the built four years ago. We walked back to evening a yak arrived with sacks of Ringmo, and went through the main barley. Discussion seemed to indicate that entrance chorten with splendid Buddha due to a lack of foodstuffs from the figures painted round the inside walls. south, supplies seem to be coming However the ceiling was the real gem through on the ancient trade routes with with nine beautifully painted mandalas Tibet. (mystic circles) of great detail and still well preserved. Snellgrove gives an DAY 22 - Thursday 10 October - explanation of each and describes the Ringmo to Chunemba ceiling as: We packed up and set off from Ringmo “.... One of the finest pieces of painting along the lakeside route about 7.30 am. It we had seen in our travels, and it was all was very cold, and a good reason for the more remarkable since there is now local people not to get up too early. It no one in the village who can do remained cold until the sun reached the anything comparable. One can only lake at about 8.15, it was a pleasant walk assume that 150 and more years ago through birch woods until we began Tibetan culture flourished in this remote climbing steeply, crossed several ridges, valley and that as a direct result of and descended again to the lakeside at the attacks from the south its whole spirit has Northwest corner of the lake. This is been destroyed.” where Phoksumdo Khola joins the lake. We had lunch in the sun where the We saw two eagles soaring above the clothes were drying. The ama (mother) steep lakeside. Having had the privilege was weaving outdoors, she had an older of living for two days beside Phoksumdo daughter, Lakba, three children away at Lake we could agree with Snellgrove’s school, and a 2-3 year old, Kanchi, who assessment of its effect:
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“The water is edged with silver birch We set off from beyond Chunemba and and the gleaming whiteness of the very soon crossed the river. It was a branches against the unearthly blue of gentle walk up the wide river valley, the water is one of the most blissful which narrowed gradually. The autumn things I have known.” colours were glowing in the sun. On the We had lunch in close company with other side of the river we could see six very large yaks - black, grey, light people in Tibetan dress with red braid in brown, and black and white. We now their hair felling trees and some have a different Sirdar, Chhongba, who Europeans in tents with them. A little had been Assistant Sirdar, also Purba, the further up one of them, a German, came Cook, 2 Kitchen Assistants, one local to talk to us - he is in a group of three, porter, and a Tamang porter (who had without a guide and they came from been left behind by another trekking Simikot across the northwest and had company in Ringmo 14 months ago when been travelling for three weeks across he got ill). Also we have 5 yaks to carry some wild country. They had met our equipment, a yak man, and a pony to Maoists near Simikot who had charged carry his equipment. The weather started them $50 each for a permit, but had given to cloud over, and we set off up the river them a receipt, which gave them no valley along indistinct paths. The route is further problems. They were due back in dominated by the eastern flank of Kathmandu about now, so would be late, Kanjiruwa 23,000ft. There were three and were concerned they would have to glaciers which feed the Phoksumdo Lake pay a fee for the National Park. We told and we saw a spectacular avalanche of them there was no problem as there was snow from one glacier; we were to hear nobody to check their permit, and several further avalanches during the suggested they might get a lift on a evening which sounded like thunder. We helicopter at Dunai. The Germans were arrived at the campsite among the trees at travelling with a group of people from about 2.45 in light hail, but the porters Phijor in northern Dolpo who were got a fire going with dry wood. There getting wood for a new gompa. We was plenty of wood around, much of continued a short distance up the valley which had been brought down by the to Kang Gopa campsite with a shelter in river. It was a pleasant spot and the yaks a grove of trees. We had lunch here, and arrived at about 4.30. One of our bags then had a very long steep climb up the had been torn apart when the yaks went next valley to our overnight stop which down a very tricky, slippery part of the was about 300m higher, and about two trail among the trees, but no great hours further on. We were coming to the damage was done. From this site we have treeline when we saw some Blue Sheep (I three days walking to Shey Gompa - thought they were a row of mani), and there is a shorter route which Peter then saw them closer when we came Matthiessen had taken but the climb to round the next ridge. There were about the pass is too steep for the yaks - and 35 of them. Blue Sheep are called Naar probably for us! in Tibetan, and Bharal in Nepali. We came to the campsite at 2pm, and the tent DAY 23 - Friday 11 October - was already up so we went inside and Chunemba to Lar Tsa rested out of the driving wind. It was a
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chilly night. reached the top without being unloaded. The views at this point were spectacular. DAY 24 - Saturday 12 October - Lar To the south we could see the flanks of Tsa to Mendok Ding Kanjuwara and other inner Himalayan It was a cold, overcast morning though peaks. Northwards it was breathtaking as there was blue sky at either end of the we could see across the snow-covered valley. At first we had a gentle walk mountains of inner Dolpo to the jagged along the valley bottom, then we climbed peaks that marked the border with Tibet. up the steep, shaley left hand side which Across the valley we could see the was very testing. The shale became snow Ngadra La, the pass which Matthiessen - quite deep, and difficult for the porters, used and which took two days less. then it became more icy, and finally we Sam’s altimeter read 17,500 feet and it crossed a shallow stream and arrived at was probably a bit higher. We think the our very cold camp site with a sight of pass we took is called the Dolma La. The our route for tomorrow, over the Pass. We descent was steep, over snow and loose arrived at 11 am in a cold wind after shale, and soon we saw the feature which three and a half hours hard climbing. We Matthiessen called Black Lake to our had lunch. The yaks arrived and the yak right. We walked down through pastures man had a look at the pass through our to the river valley which was sometimes binoculars and was worried about the stony, elsewhere muddy, and tricky in yaks getting up the final steep bit fully places. It was a glorious day and when loaded: we may have to unload them we came to the prayer flags we saw our below the summit and get the porters to first stunning view of Shey Gompa. It carry the kit up. We rested during the was still a long way down, across the afternoon in the tent, sheltered from a river, and up to the campsite near the bleak environment. gompa. We had lunch in the sun and then discussed the plan for the next few days. DAY 25 - Sunday 13 October - Mendok The yak man announced that we had to Ding to Shey Gompa stay there the next day, and move on after We had a long, cold, and almost sleepless that. His yaks were tired and needed a night. There was a cold wind but the sky day’s rest. That would still leave enough was clear, so we would not get any more time to get to Tingkyhu on the evening of snow. The yaks had gone down the valley the 19th October. Sam also discussed the to escape the cold, and had to be brought rest of the route with the yak man who up again. The camp was packed up and wanted to go direct to Simigaon from we set off with the porters towards the Saldang over the Koma passes. Sam said pass. The snow became quite deep at the that we had to go further north to visit bottom of the pass. We left the camp at the famous gompa at Yangsher. The yak 7.45am and arrived at the steep part at man was not very happy since he had not 9.30 then struggled to the top which we travelled that route but he had heard that reached at 10.30. The yaks were the trail from Yangsher to Shimen was approaching the difficult stretch as we difficult. Sam assured him he had a arrived at the top, but with much guidebook! In the afternoon we walked encouragement from the porters they round Shey looking at the impressive slowly zigzagged their way up and chortens and visiting the gompa, said to
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be 800 years old. There was a vast of solitude for three years and there was quantity of prayer stones around the no question of disturbing him on our gompa, an accumulation which does account.” underline Shey’s age and importance as a Matthiessen claims to have met him in religious site. No monks were present: 1972. Valli tried twice in the 80s but he they had gone to Saldang on a visit. Shey was “in retreat” for most of that decade, is the spiritual centre of Dolpo and takes though through a closed door, in response its name “Crystal” from the nearby to a request for guidance on a decision he sacred mountain. In the late spring people had to make, he was advised: “When two come to Shey from all over Dolpo for paths open in front of you, if you are religious festivities which often culminate strong, you choose the most difficult one, in a “kora” or circuit of the mountain. the path that will demand the most of Once the sun disappeared behind the you.” We assume that the search is on for surrounding peaks it got very cold, so we the 17th Tulku. had a 12 hour stint in our sleeping bags It was a steep climb to the monastery. after an early supper. The resident lama had gone on a visit to Phijor in north Dolpo. We were greeted DAY 26 - Monday 14 October - Shey by his assistant Dawa and his 6 year old Gompa helper. The gompa was situated on a This was a rest day, and it was much ledge in a fantastic setting against red and milder and warmer, though still cold in grey cliffs. We entered and climbed some the early morning and at night. We had stairs and went into the tiny prayer hall breakfast at 8am in the sun. At 9am we decorated with the usual deities and set off down to the river on an allegedly tankas. Where the Lama sits he can only 45 minute walk to visit Tsakang see sky and mountains. We also saw the hermitage. It took two hours over several kitchen and his small bedroom. He had a ridges, but it was worth it. There were small black cat inside and a big mastiff several mani on the ridges and great dog chained outside. Afterwards we sights of the Crystal Mountain, Tsakang walked past the dog and round the cliff and another hermitage further away down path to have a sight of the other the valley. hermitage which is even more isolated. The Lama of Shey is a ‘tulku’ or Matthiessen states that it is called reincarnated lama of the original founder Dolma-jang. It was closed in his day of Shey Gompa. The 16th Shey Tulku because passing Khampas had stolen a died in 1991 and by all accounts he was a precious statue. Dawa told us that no very holy man who was loved and lama lived there now and that there had respected throughout Dolpo [the 15th been a recent theft. On our return to Tulku died in 1928 after wishing that in Tsakang we went through an arch to see his next incarnation he would be more water dripping from the cave ceiling dedicated to the Dolpo community and which was the water source for the less inclined towards women] The 16th gompa. Dawa and his young helper also Tulku resided in Tsakang for most of his climbed to the chortens on the left to see life spending very long periods in solitary if there were any Blue Sheep around. meditation. Snellgrove did not meet him There were none. But we could see the in 1956 “since he had not broken his vow side of Crystal Mountain.
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We walked back to Shey for lunch, and were concealed within the deep-set were met on the way by the Tamang valleys. We were alone amidst a chiaroscuro of light and shade falling upon ridge after ridge of grey and brown, while the far horizon was edged by a rim of snow.” Snellgrove. In the distance we could see the reddish ridge below which was the village of Tingkyhu, our ultimate goal. We had a snack, though it was very cold in the wind. Before long the yaks arrived, so we made our way down around the bowl beneath the pass, over ridges and down Shey Gompa. the steep descent to the riverside at Namgung where we were to camp. We porter with a hot orange drink. After had a light lunch and then made our way lunch we washed our hair even though it down to the village, where there were was windy. The clouds came over in the many chortens, an old monastery on the late afternoon, but by 6pm the sky was cliff, most of which had collapsed, and a completely clear. The yaks were herded new one in the village which we visited up near the camp for the resumption of and were shown round by the lama. There our journey the next day. We read and was also a hermitage gompa in the cliffs reread the pieces from “The Snow beyond our campsite. It was sunny and Leopard” about Shey Gompa which sheltered in the afternoon, but got cold. brought it very much alive. We saw a yak man passing with nine yaks loaded with timber. Apparently it was for DAY 27 - Tuesday 15 October - Shey houses in Saldang, but it is known that Gompa to Namgung there is illicit trade in timber to China and We had another very long, cold night and there is no Government representation in set off at 7.40 for Shey La. We were this area at the moment. Finally, before keeping an eye out for Blue Sheep, but it our evening meal we saw Blue Sheep, was probably too cold for them at this eight females, not far above the camp; altitude. We gradually climbed beside the they were going down to the river to river, then there was a steep climb up a drink. We also saw a type of snow grouse, gully with loose shale and rocks. We which stay in the high regions. came out at a flat place and could see another steep hill ahead, finally at the top DAY 28 - Wednesday 16 October - of this we saw the long traverse through Namgung to Karang the snow to a cairn and prayer flags at It was cool in the morning but there was Shey La. We stopped at the pass and it no wind so we breakfasted outdoors. We was an emotional moment. At last we set off up the hill above the village could see the amazing land of inner towards Saldang, our lunch stop. At first Dolpo: it was quite steep, then it levelled out. As “From where we stood we could see no we went round a ridge by a mani wall we trace of human habitation, for the villages saw five or six Blue Sheep who quite
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quickly ran away, but with the binoculars and was very sad to leave such nice we saw an indistinct grey figure - we people. Their faces were memorable and thought at first it was a Blue Sheep with I am glad I have the photographs to young - but in fact it was a Snow remind me of such a happy hour.” Leopard which was lying in a thicket We had lunch near to a school which ready to attack. When the Blue Sheep ran was almost finished. It had 10 - 12 away it walked slowly back to a rock and classes including the younger children. slipped into the space underneath. Its There was also a row of three impressive distinctive long tail, thick to the tip, made chortens just below us. The village was it unmistakable. We walked on at a high well organised and used in winter by level, with fantastic views of the many families from outlying settlements mountains and hills in hazy blues, greens, like Shey. All the main Dolpo villages are browns and purple. We came to the pass occupied during the winter and to Saldang and could see the village Snellgrove asserts that it is the highest beautifully laid out in the valley. As we permanently habitable area in the world. descended we could see activity around It must be bitterly cold and life must get the Gompa - lots of people were there down to survival levels. There was lots of and Sam saw a lama arrive on horseback activity with the recent harvest, and with a retinue so he went down to plenty of water, which enabled them to investigate while the rest of us made our grow poplars near the streams, but they way down to the other end of the village. had to encircle the trunks with stones or Sam writes: “It took me about 20 bricks to stop the animals eating the bark minutes to get down to the gompa. There and lower branches and leaves. Soon was a large group in front of the gompa, after we moved on we saw more Blue with the women wearing their colourful Sheep, about 12 in one group and and 36 traditional shawls with elaborate silver in another. We moved on around the clasps and some were wearing the ridges and came to the pass above traditional Dolpo headdress - a pair of Karang, another big village with, a curved rectangular plates of silver or gompa above and several chortens. The brass, laced together with leather thongs fields had recently been harvested and and worn on the top and back of the threshing was taking place, it was head. The Chief Lama of Yangsher beautiful weather with a little wind. We gompa with eight other lamas were camped in a newly harvested field and singing/reciting the liturgy with full provided great interest for the children, musical support from traditional particularly when the porters started instruments. Everyone was so happy and preparing the evening meal. extremely welcoming. I was invited to sit with the lamas but declined! I took many DAY 29 - Thursday 17 October - photographs, and chatted to a lot of Karang to Mo people who wanted me to stay for We left the camp at 7.15am, crossed a another couple of hours but I knew that I deep ravine and climbed a gentle path had a 20 minute walk up through the along the valley. We climbed again to the village to join Anne and that we had to ridge then had a tortuous descent along get to Karang that afternoon. The Chief the river to the junction of the two rivers Lama gave me a blessing, I apologised that flow down the two main valleys of
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inner Dolpo: the one we had walked recently, so it seems to be thriving. We down called Nang-khong (Namgung) and know from our reading that if Shey is the the one we were just about to walk up spiritual centre of Dolpo, Yangshir is its going east called Ban-tshang (Panzang). historic spiritual power-house. A lama These are the headwaters of the mighty called “Religious Protector Glorious and Karnali river which flows down to India Good” was the abbot here in the 16th through the far west of Nepal. The Century. The buildings are old and junction is called Dorasumdo [“the stone strikingly impressive, made more so by enclosure where the 3 waters meet”]. the extraordinary desolate setting. As There were three impressive and very old ever, Snellgrove captures its essence: chortens right at the meeting point of the “Yang-tsher is one of those places that waters. We walked along the south side seem to haunt the mind. It represents an of the Ban-tshang and crossed the river, oasis of great religious culture amidst just after passing a pair of gate chortens, what is perhaps the harshest scenery towards Yangshir Gompa. We continued imaginable - bare rocks and coarse for one and a half hours along the river eroded soil. One thinks of the zeal and and then up to Nisalgaon. We eventually energy of those former inmates, who found the yard where lunch was being brought such a place into existence, prepared with the sun blazing and no practising their religion in all holiness shade. and sincerity.” We walked down to the Gompa, across When we got back to our lunch spot two ravines and along to the group of the yaks had arrived, but the Sirdar reported that the Tamang porter had got drunk the night before and decided not to continue, so he had been paid off. This was perhaps why he had been left behind by the trekking company in Ringmo. This business had delayed the yaks departure in the morning and the programme for the day. We set off down from the village and the yaks joined the group, but it was a very difficult path. One of the porter’s dokhas or baskets had also started to Ladies of Saldang wearing traditional come apart, so there were further delays. dress. There was a long descent to the Ban-tshang gorge and then we had to buildings. The main lamas were away at climb high above it on a tricky path. Saldung so we were only able to see one None of our party had been on this route small prayer hall, but afterwards Sam before. We finally got to the top of the climbed over a wall and was able to see ridge where we were to take the route up the mass of chortens and the two other to Mogaon along a narrow valley. The temples within the walls. There was a Ban-tshang gorge was impassable from new house just below the main gompa this point, and we would rejoin the river and it was probably for the lamas. A lot that flowed down it the the next day. First of building work had taken place we had a gentle descent, then numerous
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climbs and descents with the wind behind main river. We saw the path from Saldang and occasional sunshine - it seemed an over the Koma passes opposite. The endless path. Finally, we saw four ladies porters arrived soon after us, and the yaks collecting firewood and bringing the later still, but they had been allowed to cattle and dzo in for the night. They graze during the journey. The fields had assured us the village was just round the all been harvested and we camped in the corner, though it took half an hour to field of a friend of the yak man. Again, reach. We waited and saw four of the many of the locals came to see what was porters coming up the valley which going on, mainly women and children, reassured us. The ladies showed us to a camping place in the village. Very few spoke Nepali, and they seldom see foreigners. The yaks arrived 45 minutes later in the dark - but there was an almost full moon so we were able to unpack and put up the tents fairly easily. Again the local people were fascinated by the cooking. We asked about the path to Simigaon and the ladies said it would take 4 to 5 hours, we thought it would be Yang-tsher – the spiritual heart of Dolpo. 7 to 8 hours, but in the event we took about 6 hours, including our lunch break. some of whom caused quite a nuisance. The weather improved and we had a DAY 30 - Friday 18 October - Mogaon sunny afternoon after all the snow and to Simigaon clouds on the Pass. Simigaon is a In the morning we found it had snowed a pleasant village with a lot of trees. The little in the night, and was still overcast. sun went behind the hill at 4pm and it We started to climb, and crossed a series cooled quickly. of ridges before we saw the Mushi La (over 5000m). It was quite a struggle in DAY 31 - Saturday 19 October - the wind, and the snow was lying so it Simigaon to Tingkyhu was not easy to follow the path. We Again it was a clear morning but cold reached the cairns and tied a kata to the with a wind blowing up the valley. We prayer flags in a bitter wind. The descent left at 7.30 am through the fields and was steep and difficult with the loose along row of chortens and mani walls shale, but we continued straight down to with prayer stones. There were several the river bed, which joined another river flocks of yak, goat and sheep. We went where we reached the ruins of some on up the river passing two or three houses, near where some yaks were settlements. We passed a small village grazing. We stopped for our packed lunch and went on up a flat plain towards here, and walked on down to where two Tingkyhu, which was a large village yak men were driving their 14 yaks to a surrounded by fields which had recently lower grazing ground. We crossed the been harvested. Threshing was taking river at intervals until we finally reached place in front of many of the houses. Simigaon, quite a big village above the There were many chortens, and a gompa
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but we wanted to keep a low profile the fold that morning after two days because of our departure by helicopter absence; he had walked across the Koma the next morning. On the very first day of passes from Saldang and met up with the the trek in the Kali Gandaki Sam had met yak man that morning at Simigaon. He some lamas from Tingkyhu who told him was welcomed back after a bit of that some Maoists had been in the village coldness. the week before co-ercing “contributions” from people. He decided to keep quiet DAY 32 - Sunday 20 October - about this! We had chosen Tingkyhu as Tingkyhu the end because the Lonely Planet guide It was a very cold night, and we woke says that on leaving the village one early to prepare for our departure. We passes “a mysterious airstrip”. Enquiries had breakfast in the tent as it was so cold. revealed that this was a CIA-financed We were packed by 6.30 and all the kit airstrip, built in the early 60’s to fly was on the airstrip by 7am. We expected Khampa fighters out for training in the helicopter at 7.30, and about then Colorado and to reinsert them. The strip groups of yak, and flocks of goat and was still in very good order, and we were sheep under the control of small boys and relieved to see it. We camped by a side girls started walking along the airstrip river under the airstrip and hoped all towards their grazing grounds. We waited would go well the next day. The yak man for another 40 minutes, and then heard was paid off and bought some of the the wonderful sound of a helicopter. It supplies which were left over from the appeared and flew into a valley to our trek. The Tamang porter had returned to right towards Tibet, but a few minutes
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later it reappeared at a lower level and “Already within me Shey remains only landed nearby. Sheep and goats scattered a strange combination of memory, dream in every direction! We loaded up rapidly and desire. I know that all things in with our entire party, and were away nature are transient, that species vanish within 10 minutes. Initially, we flew back and mountains dissolve, yet I hope that down the valley and then gained rapidly nothing will change at Shey, that from in height to pass low across various high reincarnation to reincarnation the lama snow ridges. We saw Lake Phoksumdo, will still occupy his ochre-coloured eyrie, and more valleys and ridges before we that the medieval silence will continue to came to the plains of the terai where we be broken by the clashing horns of landed at Nepalgung, only a few miles fighting bharal, and that Drutob Senge from the Indian border. Inside an hour, Yeshe will fly forever on his magic snow the contrast of altitude and temperature, lion around the sacred Crystal not to mention culture, could not have Mountain.” been greater. By mid morning we were George B. Schaller - companion of Peter on a scheduled flight back to Kathmandu Matthiessen - in ‘The Stones of Silence.’ and our great adventure was over. All we had left was a host of vivid memories some of which we have tried to share in this record.
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T,", wwU',!wv"'Od p"""u~" ,,~h /J 21 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:57 Page 22 THE BRITAIN NEPAL MEDICAL TRUST – AN UPDATE By Dr Gillian Holdsworth (This article is based on the lecture given increasing problem. It is estimated that by Dr Holdsworth to the Society on 19th more than 35,000 people are living with January 2004. Many members of the HIV/AIDS and it is predicted that it will Society have connections with the Britain be the leading cause of adult death in – Nepal Medical Trust from its early days. Nepal by 2010. This is a timely update on how the BNMT has developed in recent years.) BNMT had developed a number of areas The Britain Nepal Medical Trust of expertise over the years. Traditionally (BNMT) has been working to improve known for its exemplary work in health in the Eastern Region of Nepal for tuberculosis control – BNMT had for over thirty five years. Established in 1967 many years been the main provider of all by a small group of expatriate health TB services in the Eastern region and was professionals with a vision, it has grown instrumental in undertaking much of the into an organisation which is now led and operational research which led the managed by Nepalis with an annual budget National Tuberculosis Programme to adopt of over £600,000 and a staff establishment Directly Observed Therapy (DOTS) as the of 100. national strategy to fight tuberculosis. DOTS provides a shorter drug regime (6 However, the health needs of people in months as opposed to 12-18 months) but Nepal remain significant: being directly observed by a health care • Over half of the deaths are still worker ensures that compliance is better attributable to infectious and parasitic and the likelihood of cure much greater. diseases and perinatal and reproductive More recently BNMT has shifted its disorders. operations from direct provision of care to • Nepal is estimated to have one of the supporting the government health services highest maternal mortality rates in the to provide quality TB services. BNMT world (500/100,000 births – compared does this through staff training, monitoring with 10/100,000 in England) and some and evaluation of the programme and 80% of all maternal deaths are as a quality assurance of microscopy in the result of preventable obstetric laboratories. complications. Access to quality services in rural areas • Nepal’s neonatal mortality rate is the of Nepal, at a price which people can third highest in the world – 39/1000 afford, has been a long term goal of (compared with 3/1000 in England). BNMT. Fifteen years ago the state of One in every eleven children born will rural health care facilities was poor. The die before the age of five years. The annual consignment of government drugs major cause of mortality in young was only sufficient to last for four months children is from acute respiratory in the district hospital or health posts. The infection and diarrhoeal disease, combination of an inability to do one’s job exacerbated by chronic malnutrition. properly and insufficient reward meant that • Tuberculosis is still a big killer with health care workers rarely stayed in post – over 45% of the population infected. making frequent trips to the district or • HIV/AIDS is now emerging as an regional centres to apply for transfers. 22 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 23 BNMT piloted a number of approaches to literacy and empowerment, kitchen try and ensure a ‘year round supply of gardens, environmental sanitation, medicines at an affordable price’ at rural community savings schemes and health posts and the district hospitals. The development and use of health education drug schemes programmes which have materials. The programme equips evolved are now operational in five hill community members with the knowledge districts covering a population of over one and skills to identify their major health million people. Over the last few years problems, analyse their cause and effect BNMT has worked extensively with local and work out solutions based on the use of communities to establish, train and local resources. The programme works supervise local health committees who will with over 100 communities in the hills of coordinate the implementation of the drug Sankhuwasabha and Khotang helping them schemes in the future, organise the develop health action plans and providing logistics, revise patient fees annually and training in nutrition, kitchen gardening and ensure that the poorest and most providing literacy classes. An evaluation of vulnerable receive their drugs free of the CHDP in 2002 found a high level of charge. Each committee manages a knowledge about nutrition, health and revolving drug fund with contributions sanitation among both men and women in from the village development committee, participating communities. Most have put the government, patient fees and BNMT. the knowledge to good use by building This fund finances the purchase of latrines, protecting sources of drinking medicines through BNMT who source and water and adding green vegetables to their purchase quality medicines from reputable diet. Women in particular have become pharmaceutical companies at cost price. more aware of health issues while local health post staff report that the programme’s health workshops have increased demand for their services. Street theatre. The Community Health and Development Programme (CHDP) Purchasing drugs at a health post. develops people’s abilities to improve their health and living standards. Born out of In 2002 BNMT, with its staff, trustees the community health leader training and key stakeholders undertook a detailed programme which had trained community strategic view of its own work and of leaders in basic health care and disease developments in Nepal. In response to the prevention – the programme has evolved changing needs of its partners and new or into a more holistic approach towards re-emerging threats to public health, community health, encompassing women’s BNMT is introducing important new 23 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 24 enabling the programme to target the most marginalised groups within the community; • An effort to address new and re- emerging public health problems – BNMT is expanding its programme to work in HIV/AIDS and malaria, particularly around health promotion and disease prevention. This is particularly important in view of the impact that HIV is likely to have on the incidence of tuberculosis in the country. • The health improvement programme will also develop and extend its role into reproductive health and safe A happy mother and baby. motherhood initiatives in an effort to try and institutionalise good practice in changes to its approach. These have been antenatal care, maternity services and incorporated into an integrated plan of child health. work for 2003-2007 called the Health • The integration of programmes to Improvement Programme. The Health enhance their impact – the move to an Improvement Programme builds on the integrated programme has meant a Trust’s achievements and wealth of change in organisational structure, from experience in TB and leprosy control, three programmes focussing on distinct community drug supply schemes and areas of intervention to a system of area participatory approaches to community offices – has required changes in health. It also seeks to address a wider personnel and new roles and range of health needs and new ways of responsibilities for staff members. working. Over the years BNMT has gradually shifted from direct Despite the challenges of political implementation of health programmes to instability and growing insurgency by the supporting and training of partners, Maoists, the programme has continued to including staff of the government basic operate and maintain its support for most health services. It has also placed areas in the hills as well as expanding its increased emphasis on community participation, empowering communities to identify, address and manage their health needs (for example by training the local health committee to manage the drug scheme programme at their local health post). These elements of partnership and participation feature strongly in the Health Improvement Plan. The key changes proposed include: • An emphasis on poverty and equity – A member of staff at work in a health post. 24 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 25 programme into the Terai districts of But is the Trust’ product value for Morang and Sunsari. The insurgency has money? An evaluation of the work created big population shifts with many between 1998-2002 showed that more than people from the rural areas moving either 80% of patients with TB complete their to district centres or Terai towns because treatment and nearly 80% are cured; of perceived better security. This will also BNMT supported community drug impact on BNMT’s future way of working. schemes exist in 73 out of 74 major health Obtaining funds for a small institutions and 25 smaller institutions, international non governmental within BNMT’s working area, are organisation has also become more providing essential drugs year round; challenging. Worldwide competition for community based organisations are resources from major donors has increased increasingly promoting their own health whilst Trusts and foundations have seen and hygiene and working to ensure access their investments fall in a declining world to health services and medicines. This is economy. In addition, because of the a great legacy to have emerged from those insurgency, much of the resources individuals all those years ago and their allocated to Nepal is now categorised as vision. ‘emergency’ money and sourced on an annual basis. This has the effect of If you would like to learn more about creating uncertainty and instability in BNMT, contact Mrs A G Peck, The Britain- implementing a five year health Nepal Medical Trust, Export House, 130 improvement plan and frequently distracts Vale Road, Tonbridge, Kent TN9 1SP. You the Trust from their overall mission and can donate online at www.givenow.org.uk goal. BRITAIN-NEPAL CHAMBER OF COMMERCE Patron: HE. Mr Prabal S.J.B. Rana President: Rt Hon. Sir John Not Chairman: Mr Adam M. R. Gilchrist Vice Chairman: Mr Anthony Wieler 12a Kensington Palace Gardens PO Box BNCC 25 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 26 MunalMunal Restaurant Restaurant Est. 1990 www.munalrestaurant.co.uk [email protected] FINEST NEPALESE CUISINE FOOD FROM GURKHALAND 393 UPPER RICHMOND ROAD PUTNEY LONDON SW15 5QL TEL: 020 8876 3083/8878 9170 TAKEAWAY SERVICE AVAILABLE 10% Discount on collection only WE GUARANTEE GOOD QUALITY FOOD AT REASONABLE PRICES RECOMMENDED BY GOOD CURRY GUIDE WE ALSO DO OUTSIDE CATERING OPEN 7 DAYS A WEEK 12-2.30 p.m. & 6-11.30 p.m. WEEKEND TILL MIDNIGHT BRANCHES 76 CENTRAL ROAD WORCESTER PARK, SURREY KT4 8HX Tel: 020 8330 3511/3711 FREE HOME DELIVERY (Orders over £12.00 within 3 miles radius) TAKEAWAY 205 LOWER RICHMOND RD PUTNEY, LONDON, SW15 1HL Tel: 020 8789 0357/0798 Tuesday-Sunday (5.30-11pm) 26 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 27 NEPAL’S LOST CHILDREN By Beverley Waymark (This article is based on a lecture given to Philip set up the Trust five years ago, in the Society by Philip Holmes on 30th response to a profound personal tragedy. March 2004 and reflects work that the Philip’s wife took her own life as she Trust has achieved since that time. The adored children and could no longer bear ‘operation’ to release the children as her inability to have a family. Philip described, was not achieved without immediately decided to build something considerable courage on the part of the positive out of this sadness by helping Trust staff involved. Also since this was some of the world’s most marginalised submitted for publication, Philip Holmes children in Esther’s name. His passion and and Beverley Waymark have moved to commitment has created an inspiring Nepal to carry forward this important charity, which works through its own work. A Trust ‘flyer’ is enclosed with the partner organisation, driving some of the journal and provides more details of the most innovative work with children in work and contact details. Ed.) Nepal. The young girl sitting in the shade of the garden speaks softly but without pausing for breath. “She is only thirteen years old and it is inhuman what she has been through, I am finding it difficult to listen to her story” comments Philip Holmes as he observes the animated group before him. Rupa (name changed) has just returned to Nepal from India where she spent three miserable years r in a living and working as a performe Children emerging from behind bars. circus. She is now safe and is able to speak freely for the first time about her experience, The campaign to free children from including the frequent punishments she circuses is one such project. Every year, suffered for crying at night. She was thousands of Nepalese children are taken regularly beaten with a stick until it broke. across the border into India by agents who In April, Rupa and 28 other Nepalese sell them into business as bonded labour. It children and teenage girls had their dreams is a huge problem to tackle but when Philip answered when charity workers and parents, heard rumours about children being held in accompanied by police, swooped on a circus circuses, he was intrigued and determined in Southern India and freed them. They to investigate. The Trust commissioned the brought them back to Nepal, a gruelling 60 first ever survey of India’s twenty-nine hour journey, but no one minded as they major circuses, conducted undercover, were on their way home to family, friends using teams of field workers posing as and safety. Philip Holmes shared their academics, talking to staff and as many elation because their rescue has been his children as they could get access to. The own dream too; it is all part of the survey revealed a shocking picture of a extraordinary work of his charity the Esther workforce of around three hundred Benjamins Trust (EBT). children, mostly girls, 50% from Nepal and 27 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 28 50% ethnic Nepali Indians. Some of these at the time of Esther’s death. Capt (QGO) children are as young as five years old and Khem Bahadur Thapa, Queen’s Gurkha they have to live and work in grim and Signals, was Philip’s Nepali language tutor. often dangerous, physically and sexually He was about to retire and the two men abusive conditions. They rehearse for long quickly realised they shared the same hours, serious accidents are common and vision. They formed a partnership and they suffer a daily round of little food and arranged to fly to Kathmandu to look for rest, no schooling, no play and of course no their first project. Within days of arriving, a freedom. All the children spoke of their cover story of The Kathmandu Post desperate desire to escape. grabbed their attention. Scores of innocent The Trust is working to rescue these children were living in pitiful conditions in children through a mixture of persuasion jails across the country. They had little and voluntary release, and legal action. food, no schooling or toys, no freedom and Considerable funds are needed to retrieve were in free association with adult and reunite victims with families and to criminals, some jailed for serious violent rehabilitate and reintegrate them properly crime. They were there simply because through a combination of education, their parents were jailed and no one outside vocational training and employment would care for them; the shame was too initiatives for older girls. great. Retired Capt Khembahadur with some of his charges. A child ‘clown’. Philip and Khem were horrified and set about negotiating the release of the The plight of the circus children has children. Obtaining parents’ consent was clear parallels with the suffering of the first easy. Most were eager to give their children children Philip helped, children held in the chance of a new life, but red tape with prisons. This problem was something prison authorities necessitated considerable Philip discovered very soon after diplomacy and patience. Finally, in establishing the Trust and meeting his September 2000 they proudly brought the Nepalese working partner, Captain (QGO) first four children out of Tansen jail, and Khem Bahadur Thapa. Philip had been an into a new refuge home in Bhairahawa, in officer in the British army and decided to the south, run by Khem’s organisation, the base his work in Nepal as he had been Nepal Child Welfare Foundation (NCWF). living and working alongside Gurkhas at Khem now runs three of these homes and their (then) UK base in Church Crookham manages operations on the ground while 28 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 29 Philip is based in the UK, planning projects the law has been changed to halt the jailing and raising funds as Director of the Esther of children, but the reality is that this Benjamins Trust. He visits Nepal practice often continues. Children still frequently and the close working come into NCWF care as a result, like four partnership and trust between the two men year old Juna and her three siblings, whose remains at the heart of their success. parents are both serving a twenty-one Today NCWF and EBT care for 45 sentence for murder. children from prisons and it is amazing to Philip and Khem also help other children see how quickly they recover and thrive. who suffer discrimination, like deaf and Children who were at first subdued and hearing impaired youngsters, who are malnourished, become happy, sociable generally considered ‘lato’ or stupid, or individuals delighted with their new their disability seen as a punishment for ‘family’ and excelling at school. The misdeeds committed in a previous life. central aim is to ‘give children back their Substantial support has been given to the childhood’ and the children all relish the Bhairahawa deaf school and its one chance to learn, enjoy new activities, and hundred students. New classrooms have have fun in a loving home. Eight year old been built, twenty-seven scholarships Jithang, for example, spent the first five funded for those from the poorest families, years of his life in a filthy prison in eastern and a deaf teacher has been employed to Nepal with his mother. When she decided act as an inspirational role model. This she didn’t want him anymore, he came to support is now being extended to other Bhairahawa, where he quickly developed major deaf schools. Street children, into an energetic fun loving and sociable Ghandarva gypsies and children with boy. Like all the children, Jithang exhibits a physical disabilities and learning touching zest for life after all he has been difficulties also enjoy substantial assistance through. in a region otherwise largely overlooked by It is important to maintain links with the major aid agencies. Many children’s lives are being changed by the Trust, and gaining INGO status later this year will mean that even more children can be helped. Philip’s enthusiasm for his work is unabated. “I can’t wait to spend more time in Nepal and get going” he smiles. “We have some very exciting plans ready to put into action, and with enough support, there is so much we will be able to achieve for Nepal’s lost and forgotten children”. Returning to their families. Any member who wishes to help this parents by ensuring children visit them trust can contact them as shown below. The regularly, but in many cases families won’t Esther Benjamins Trust, The Business be reunited for a very long time as some Village, 3-9 Broomhill Road, London are serving sentences of many years. SW18 4JQ. Telephone 020 8877 2519. Supporting children into early adulthood is Website: www.ebtrust.org.uk Email: part of the ongoing commitment and [email protected] requires considerable resources. Officially, 29 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 30 TIGER MOUNTAIN NEPAL GROUP Tiger Tops Jungle Lodge & Tented Camp Tiger Tops Tharu Village Tiger Mountain Pokhara Village Tiger Tops Karnali Jungle Lodge & Tented Camp Mountain Travel Nepal Adventure Travel Nepal Himalayan River Exploration (Pioneers of wildlife, adventure and cultural travel in Nepal) Contact: Mrs Carolyn Syangbo Public Relations Manager Tiger Mountain PO Box 242, Kathmandu, Nepal Tel: 00 977 1 414073 Fax: 00 977 1 414075 Website on the Internet: heep://www.tigertops.com 30 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 31 THE NEPALESE NETTLE PROJECT By Susi Dunsmore (Susi Dunsmore, a member of the Society, production is limited due to the nature of has, with her husband, the late John soils and terrain, to obtain much needed Dunsmore, been involved with the nettle supplementary income, and that the nettle project in Nepal for many years. She has plant, if well managed or even cultivated, addressed the Society on this topic and is could help to stabilize the soil in the the author of a number of works on the fragile mountain areas, besides providing development and use of nettles in Nepal. some food, medicine and fodder. The Following the death of John Dunsmore in weavers had asked for help for improved November 2000 (see obituary in the 2001 fibre extraction methods for spinning, journal), Susi Dunsmore carried on their weaving and finishing equipment; and, work. This article is an edited version of a most of all, for nettle product development piece that appeared in the December 2002 and marketing. edition of the ‘Journal for Spinners and Fibre extraction trials by chemical and Weavers’.) by mechanical means and recently also by the use of enzymes (trials at the Institut I am grateful for the opportunity to write fur Angewandte Botanik, University of about the progress of the Nettle project Hamburg) are continuing, but so far the and to express my gratitude to the many nettle producers still practice the weavers who have helped over the past traditional methods. years, particularly since the death of my Weaving and finishing equipment is husband through cancer in November now available to many weavers in the 2000. John had been invited to go to Sankhuwasabha area at the weaving centre Nepal by the Hill Agricultural Research at Sisuwa which was completed in 1988 Project (HARP) during November/ and is fully functioning as an December 2000 to help conduct a outlet/supply workshop and training workshop on the ‘Potential opportunity for centre. The centre is managed by the income generation through Himalayan officially registered Allo (nettle) Cloth Nettles’ and to sum up what had been Producers Club, involving weavers from achieved so far and to recommend steps all the surrounding villages. for the way ahead. Sadly John was not The traditional nettle products such as able to go to Nepal but he did manage to sacks, bags, mats, carrying straps, fishing finish writing the draft paper for the nets and to a lesser extent clothing conduct of the workshop in October 2000. (jackets), are still made for home use and Most of this article is based on that report local trade. Sacks are especially in and subsequent work. demand as they are much harder-wearing As in previous papers John tried to than the more common jute sacks. All the convince policy makers that the use of traditional items are functional as well as ‘traditional skills and materials can beautiful and one can hope that the contribute towards economic development manufacture of at least some of the items and environmental conservation’ will continue even if there is only a (Dunsmore 1988). He was convinced that limited local or outside niche market. nettle projects could enable some of the Adaptation of the traditional warp-faced poorest households in Nepal, where food cloth for furnishing material, mats and 31 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 32 bags has found some market but one has nettles, extract the fibre, spin the yarn and to bear in mind the considerable weight of knit when and wherever she likes, and these items and the amount of raw invent and combine patterns all to her own material used. The Nepalese Tweed cloth choice. All she needs are knitting needles (nettle warp, local wool weft) developed and these can even be carved from the in the eighties continues to find a market, local bamboo. When she sells the nettle mainly in Kathmandu for men’s winter shawl she gains the full return for the jackets; but for export it could not process from the harvest to the completed compete price-wise with British Harris item. Tweed, which is similar in appearance. Recently, local hand-spun silk, from broken, boiled and carded cocoons, has been made available to nettle weavers and a combination of nettle warp and silk weft with the traditional herringbone (Taro kes) or diamond (Gimte) pattern looks perfect for high quality furnishing or clothing. Most of these trials were initiated by Ang Diku Sherpa, a member of the London Guild of Weavers, who in spite of the current difficult political situation, continues to travel to the remote villages of Nepal helping the weavers with design suggestions and marketing. Some of the most successful items she encourages are the beautiful lacy knitted nettle scarves Rai nettle fibre spinner from and shawls. They are especially popular Sankhuwasabha amongst tourists. In England they are available at Livingstone Studio, Looking at the fine quality of the single Hampstead. One advantage of a finely- hand-spun nettle yarn, it is not surprising knitted nettle shawl (50x170 cms approx.) that there have been requests from buyers is that it weighs only 60gms, in for this. Members of the project were comparison to a woven sack (55x115 cms) reluctant at first to encourage the sale of which weighs over 600gms. Thus a yarn, as obviously a higher return could knitted shawl could be made from the be obtained by selling finished items. fibre of approximately 20 nettle stems However Ang Diku Sherpa found that whilst a woven sack would require about there are some, usually elderly, women 200 stems. Being of such light weight who prefer just to spin and sell their yarn. means also that items can be transported Therefore, after much calculation of on a porter’s back and posted at minimum harvesting, extracting and spinning time, cost. From the weaving centre it takes at and transport cost, small amounts of yarn least one full day, two for me, to walk to are now exported, giving the spinners a the airstrip at Tumlingtar. The nearest good return, thanks to the understanding road-head with bus connection is three encouragement of Nancy Lee Child of days walk away. Another advantage is Handweavers Studio in London. that the weaver can harvest her own Inevitably the question arises, will there 32 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 33 be enough raw material available if the range of high quality products which demand for nettle products increases? would have a continuing appeal to the There has been no shortage so far as the upper end of the market, less dependent nettle seeds freely and also produces root upon fashion trends, but which would suckers from the harvested plant. If nevertheless use nettle fibres or yarns to shortages occur, nettles could be grown their best advantage. The fifteen weavers along forest edges, or, where single who took part in the competition did just species forest plantations afford that with their 150 grams of Nepalese inadequate cover for the soil, allo (nettle) nettle yarn. There were beautiful cloth could be established for this purpose as samples in plain-weave, twills and leno, well as it in its own right. Becoming some made up into bags, cushion covers more aware of the nettle plants as a source and belts. I was glad I was not one of the of income, some weavers started growing six judges who had to decide on the best them near their houses on land unsuitable entries. The judges, all with different for arable crops, thus contributing towards backgrounds, examined every aspect of soil conservation at the same time. As the entries and their possibilities, but had more spinners, weavers and knitters want to consider especially the marketing to get involved in the nettle production, 14 potentials if the project was going to help sub clubs have now been formed, and the weavers. Inge Cordsen and Kate there is a growing demand for a greater Crossfield, who have given much valuable variety of products. This was expressed advice to the project over the years, kindly in a letter I received in 2001 from the hosted the event at their Livingstone ‘Allo Cloth Producers Club’. The Studio and acted as judges together with weavers in Sankhuwasabha have very Ron Stewart former buyer at Liberty- little outside contact. It is difficult for Oriental carpet department; Dr Mahesh them to experiment or design or assess Pant, Development Projects, Nepal; Liz which product might be marketable in van Rensburg, weaver, former VSO who other parts of Nepal or the wider world. helped to establish the weaving centre at One must bear in mind also that the Sankhuwasabha; and Phillipa Watkins, traditional nettle cloth is still looked down lecturer at the Royal College of Art and a upon as poor man’s clothing in Nepal and weaver. Eventually and after long only recently with new designs or in consideration five winners were chosen: combination with other fibres is this Melanie Venes for her curtain and table perception beginning to change. But linen designs; Angus Williams for his rug what kind of nettle products might be the and cloth designs; Eve Alexander for her most suitable to suggest to the Nepalese plain-weave bag with open work detail; weavers? Because of the long established Jennifer Midgely for her cushion cover link between the Nepalese and the London with Nepalese silk inlay, and Tim Parry- weavers, I turned, via Ang Diku Sherpa, to Williams (not yet a Guild member) for his the London Guild for help, inviting fashion cloth designs. Not only these but members to take part in a competition to also some of the other excellent entries, weave, knit, crochet, braid or use any for instance Claude Delmas’ brocade other technique to make a sample item pattern cloth, Ann Hecht’s spaced warp which could vary from a small gift or and Anne Willit’s felted wool and nettle something to wear, to furnishing and samples, were then woven in full size to curtain material. The aim was to develop a be market tested. The response and also 33 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 34 fibre products. • ensure that the maximum benefit from the work goes to the households in the allo areas” (page 6, draft Report 2000). In a survey carried out by Mountain Spirit (NGO) in 2002, interviewing representatives of weavers’ groups and Village Development Committees from Sisuwa, Bala, Mangtewa and Tamku, all aspects of allo production development were high on the list of priorities. The survey also revealed that supplementary income was essential as many of the small Knitting an allo (nettle) shawl whilst farms can produce only enough food crops returning from collecting fodder. to feed the family for 6-7months of the year. We thought maybe the best way to the reaction of the weavers towards the fulfil the request of the weavers and new products was encouraging; we could discuss future development would be by just see Kathmandu hotels at long last holding a practically-orientated allo becoming interested in curtain and workshop using the funds John had left. furnishing material made of allo. So the potential for further allo development was evident, but, as John put it, if help was given “every aspect should be discussed with the weavers and knitters from the very beginning”, especially the points listed below: • ensure the availability of raw materials. • build on existing skills. • when supplying labour-saving devices or devices to improve the quality of products, minimise the capital outlay required; as far as possible any new Checking out a new loom. equipment should be capable of being built and maintained locally. Eleven UK weavers, spinners, dyers, felt • ensure that there is a relatively quick makers and helpers volunteered to teach return. (and to learn!) – and sixteen Nepalese • any effect on the environment should be weavers from Sankhuwasabha were beneficial. invited to take part and share their ideas • minimise any adverse effects on family and skills with us. The workshop took life. place from the 6 -16th February 2004 at • maximise the return to the producers by the very hospitable Ambassador Hotel in ensuring that the distinctive qualities of Kathmandu. Earlier plans to hold it in the allo fibre are brought out to produce Sankhuwasabha had to be changed unique items quite distinct from other because of the political situation. 34 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 35 danger of outsiders exploiting this special resource of allo. But at least the workshop will have drawn attention to the wealth of skills of the Sankhuwasabha weavers and knitters and the unique quality of allo fibres. It also established a strong link and friendships between the Nepalese and UK weavers and knitters; a link we all want to strengthen further. Future plans may include follow-up workshops (with emphasis on marketing) or invitations for Learning about the new spinning wheels. weavers to visit the UK. However, holding the workshop in Another valuable link with Nepal was Kathmandu had the advantages of giving made in 2002 when the John Dunsmore the Nepalese weavers the opportunity to Scholarship was established at the Royal see and explore their capital, visit the College of Art, sponsoring each year- if a shops where their products are sold, see suitable candidate applies- one (or two) how the products are used and witness the student/graduates to visit Nepal for a few interest and admiration of their work at weeks working with, and exchanging the final exhibition. At the same time, we ideas with, Nepalese textile producers. were able to meet and exchange ideas Two of these young RCA Textile Design with representatives of allo projects taking graduates, Louise Rolt (knitter) and place in other areas of Nepal. The Catherine Sevilla (weaver), who returned Nepalese weavers’ enthusiasm and recently from Phidim, East Nepal, created eagerness to discover all the possibilities together with the Nepalese weavers some of the four looms and two spinning wheels exciting Dhaka/Embroidery designs which we had brought is difficult to describe. are going to be used by Himalayan Adding to the interest of the workshop, Leather Handicrafts – a Nepal Leprosy six invited speakers provided information Trust project – for their new range of bags on allo growing, processing and marketing this year. These innovations based on and the importance of working together: traditional designs could open up a whole Mr KP Shrestha (socio-economist from new market for Dhaka weavers and the A.R.S Pakhribas); Mr SP Acharya embroiderers as well as allo spinners, (former co-ordinator of KHARDEP); knitters and weavers. Although allo occurs Professor SC Singh (RECAST, Tribhuvan in some nearby countries like Bhutan, University); Usha Nepal (former CDO and nowhere, except in Nepal, have the allo Head of Women’s Training Centre fibres been used to their full advantage as Dhankuta); Reeta Simha (Managing they are now in the finely woven Director of Aama Impex); and Shakun Sankhuwasabha allo cloth or the delicate Sherchand (International Wheels knitted shawls. One day Nepalese allo Boutique). The workshop was a most textiles may well become as famous as, rewarding experience for all of us; only for instance, Irish linen or Thai silk. The time will tell what impact it has had. creativity and the knowledge of the Because of the remoteness of the areas, Nepalese weavers and knitters will ensure marketing may remain a problem, and so that traditional textiles will not only will migration to the towns as well as the survive, but will become richer with every 35 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 36 generation. participants who made this workshop so successful and enjoyable.) (Author’s Note: I am very grateful to Sir Christopher Freyling, Rector Royal References: College of Art, and Mary Restieaux, Inge Dunsmore, J R. Nepal: Hill Cordson and staff of the College for Agricultural Research Project: having established the link with Nepal Identification of potential opportunity for through the John Dunsmore Scholarship income generation through Himalaya scheme, and I greatly appreciate the help Nettle, Allo Preliminary Draft Report, we received from the members of the 2000. Britain Nepal Society and especially the Dunsmore, J R. Crafts, Cash and Patron Princess Jotshana Rajya Laxmi Conservation in Highland Nepal, Devi Basnyat for her interest in allo Community Development Journal 33, pp textiles, Pat Mellor and the editor of the 49-56, 1998. journal, Lt Col Birch for compiling this Dunsmore, J R. Micro-enterprise article. The late Madame Teeka Rajya Development: Traditional skills and the Laxmi Simha will always be remembered reduction of poverty in Highland Nepal. for encouraging the development of Himalayan Research Bulletin XVIII, 2 pp Nepalese Textiles. My deep gratitude to 22-27. our generous Nepalese hosts, to Mountain Spirit (NGO) and to all the teachers and 36 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 37 FAITH OF THEIR FATHERS By John Burlison (I am grateful to Major John Burlison for rustic toughness. All comment on humour, permission to reproduce this article from charm, a winning smile, and a traditional ‘The Sirmooree’, the journal of the Sirmoor military professionalism, inherited from Club, the regimental association of the 2nd their ancestors. Life with Gurkhas is to Gurkha Rifles, of which he is editor. Major belong to a family, in which they enlisted Burlison is a member of the Society.) with the faith of their fathers, and so did we. There are several British officers who In this the 60th year since the Allies are third or more generation in the launched the invasion to liberate Nazi Regiment. Europe, many of the historic and county Gurkhas have qualified to fly helicopters, regiments of that army and of other areas of served with the SAS, qualified as high operations, are themselves now deceased grade engineers, operated sensitive radio and exist only in the occasional mention of links, and until recently have supplied a reunion. I attended one such reunion complete Companies of soldiers to British earlier in the year, but in Nepal, and that of Army regiments to make up manpower the regiment of Gurkhas in which I served shortages. Gurkhas and their unique system for four decades. It is one thing for a are not without their faults and deficiencies, hundred or so old officers and soldiers in especially in the modern era of ever-ready England to gather in a hotel or club in this litigation experts and clamouring Human country, but it is quite another thing to have Rights advisers. Gurkhas are, however, two thousand Gurkha ex-servicemen and particularly useful to Britain as families assembling in the Himalayas to peacekeeping troops in countries where a meet up with 131 of us officers and well-trained and imposing Gurkha can be supporters who had flown from UK to seen as a more acceptable ambassador for central Nepal for this Reunion – probably peace than perhaps his equivalent from the last of its kind. urban England. This regiment of Gurkhas, the 2nd Gurkhas are not mercenaries as their Gurkha Rifles, we call ourselves ‘The enlistment to British service is by a special Sirmoor Rifles’ from the area in which the inter-government agreement and not as regiment was first deployed in 1815, went individual ‘dogs of war’. Nor are Gurkhas a the way of so many other fine bodies of remnant of colonialism. Nepal was never men and was disbanded ten years ago when part of the Empire and is not a member of amalgamated into the remaining British the Commonwealth, but, as we witnessed, Army Gurkha infantry regiment: ‘The many old Gurkhas reserve pride and honour Royal Gurkha Rifles’. Whereas there were for the British Crown. some 19,000 Gurkhas serving The Queen Our assemblage of Gurkhas comprised when I joined in 1961, now there are about some 1400 men, and half that number again 3,500 spread between Infantry, Engineers, of wives and families in their finest attire. Signals and Logistics. Some had travelled for two or three days, Many people have their own stories of by foot or by bus, to be present. Nepal is Gurkhas. Some of these depict colourful not a happy nation at the moment as there is heroics, while others declaim only simple a serious insurgency situation raging, which fatalism and blind obedience. Most describe makes travel an uneasy exercise. 37 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 38 There are local strikes, or ‘bhands’, This ‘Pride of Gurkhas’, representing which close roads in a whole area; approximately 15,000 years military checkpoints or road blocks are set up service to the Crown, had come in the where ‘dues’ may have to be paid over or spirit of those who had preceded them in travel even denied. But some impulse of the Regiment in the Great War and the loyalty drove our people to overcome these century of small wars before and after that. difficulties and to attend. They turned up keen to be present at a One of the holders of the MC, in this gathering of old comrades and to meet up case won at Cassino in 1943, said that it with companions-in-arms now living normally takes him one day walking and elsewhere in Nepal and with their officers one day by bus to reach Pokhara, where from Britain whose names they recall and the Durbar was being held, but this time recount to their youngsters. (But could we there were no buses so he had to walk for still remember their names?) three days, aged 93. The golden smiling faces, faded a little Another party arrived late for the parade perhaps with years, but still each with its because insurgents had halted their bus. own quiet sparkle of separate identity, They backed off, waited until night then displayed the appreciation and friendship proceeded unnoticed, to arrive for the built up over years of sharing hardships festivities of the Reunion, if not for the and dangers, despite differing backgrounds formalities. and cultures. Such had been the faith of On parade were nearly one thousand their fathers too. Officers and Men, reviewed by the The oldest present was either 94 or 95 Regiment’s own Field Marshal, Sir John or even 96, he did not know and nor did Chapple. In the ranks was a former anyone else. The ambulance in attendance Secretary of State for Defence, Sir John was never needed, although the Nott, and the Gurkha holder of the Victoria celebrations afterwards caused many to Cross medal won at Tamandu (Burma) in stumble just a little. The stories that came 1944, LCpl Bhanbagta. There was a out from the years of military service British officer who had won a Military together around the world grew with the Cross in the same battle, and then a second age of the teller and the courtesy of the MC later in Malaya. There were present listeners and the tipples imbibed. some twenty holders of the MC and other The day after the formal parade, lunch significant gallantry decorations. party and old boys’ football match, we had We had officers, a couple from National a barbeque picnic for over two thousand Service days, and men on parade who had officers, soldiers, wives and families, served for ten years keeping communism which filled the whole of the local golf out of Malaya, and those who had resisted driving range. The entire two-day event Indonesia’s Confrontation with Malaysia. had been the inspiration of our Gurkha There were many who for some 20 years Officers in Nepal, with support and had fulfilled the depressing duties monitoring from The Sirmoor Club in UK, preserving Hong Kong’s border, and had been nearly three years in the containing the flow of illegal immigrants making. until the hand back of the Colony, and This was the Sirmoor Rifles family present too were the younger generations together for possibly the last time at this with their medals from Bosnia, Kosovo, scale and we were not just fading away. Sierra Leone and the Gulf. 38 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 39 WorldWide Volunteering Volunteering opportunities for people of all ages throughout the UK and worldwide www.wwv.org.uk T. 01935 825588 [email protected] F. 01935 825775 “You are never too old to volunteer” 39 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 40 A RAI WEDDING By Mark Temple When I was a young man in Nepal in the later, and pays the standard bride price nineteen seventies I read with zest the of NCR 80. (The payment of bride books of the social anthropologists. price seems to have discontinued Their descriptions of the mosaic of tribe nowadays, but the boy’s parents and caste and their customs were usually provide the girl with gold essential reading for me. As an ornaments.) The wedding takes place agriculturalist engaged in the messy at night. Its essential and binding business of changing things, I admired portion is the payment of one rupee by their observation and especially their the bridegroom as earnest money to the detachment. So I learnt who would eat bride’s father, the smearing of what sort of meat, if any, who would mix vermilion on the bride’s forehead and with who and something of the customs. putting a scarf round her neck.” How pleased I was when a few years ago, I had the opportunity to attend a Rai wedding. My books on Nepal are many, but I had little information about the customs of the Rais. Nepal and the Gurkhas, published by Ministry of Defence in 1965 contained the following: “The Rai marriage customs do not differ greatly from those of other eastern tribes. Risley notes: “The Khambas marry their daughters as adults and tolerate sexual licence before marriage on the understanding, rarely set in defiance, that a man shall The night-time tikka ceremony outside honourably marry a girl who is the bride’s house is underway with the pregnant by him. Men usually marry bride (second from left) wearing on her between the ages of 15 and 20, and head a gold flower ornament and the girls between 12 and 15, but marriage groom a white head-cloth. A boy is often deferred in the case of the provides illumination with a pressure former to 25, and of the latter to 20. lamp. (In the hills of Bhojpur District The preliminary negotiations are circa 1975.) entered upon by the bridegroom’s family, who send am emissary with Once in Dharan, an ex-serviceman, two bamboo vessels of murwa beer Captain Harkabahadur Rai, showed me and a piece of pork to the bride’s photos of his niece’s wedding in Bhojpur house to ask for her hand. If her district in the hills in the 1970s. The parents agree, the bridegroom follows tikka ceremony went on all night outside on an auspicious day, about a fortnight the bride’s house. The bride wore a 40 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 41 golden flower ornament on her head and Kirantis, the eastern tribal people of the groom was presented with a series of history who included the Rais and white head cloths. The following day the Limbus.This Rai family is one with couple set off for the groom’s house, the generations of service in the Indian Army groom being carried on a back, and the and more recently the British Army. bride in a hammock slung from a pole. Hence the family’s youngsters do not In Dharan, the family of the bride of the speak the Rai language although the 1997 wedding lived in a delightful older and more distant members who still bungalow in a quiet tarmaced street. The live in the hills continue to use it. Who street is inhabited almost entirely by can say how much the ceremony that I British ex-servicemen. This family home witnessed was affected by influences of was built by their father on retiring from India, Malaya and Hong Kong? the army in 1968 when he moved the family down from the eastern hills to the advantages of civilisation. The garden is particularly attractive with lawns, shrubs and trees. 1997 Rai (Chamling) wedding in Dharan. The couple in the bungalow during the tikka ceremony. The groom wears a lemon grass garland and the bride a red sari. Preparations for the wedding began early in the morning with the killing of a The following morning the couple set off pig reared by the family. The to the groom’s house, the bride still bridegroom, a squeamish fellow, declined wearing the golden flower and carried in to watch the slaughter. Then the contract a hammock slung from a pole. caterers arrived. They set up their very large cooking pots over log fires on three The wedding invitations were impromptu fireplaces in a corner of the distributed only four or five days ahead garden to cook rice, spicy pork and of the ceremony, but no doubt all the chicken. There was a relaxed atmosphere guests had, like me, received their verbal as the morning of preparations took invitations long before. “Just a small place. The speakers of a CD player ceremony for neighbours and family” I perched in an upper window gave a was told. The printed wedding musical accompaniment of popular invitations, on yellow card, had a picture Nepali pop songs and such old favourites of Yalembar the famous king of the as the Nepal Police brass band playing 41 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 42 folk tunes. Kids played around, as they fee of four beers and the equivalent of always do in Nepal, but a colourful five pence sterling. The bride’s mother screen was erected to make the garden and a senior lady of the family started the more private. The street has a residents’ application of tikka by sticking the red association which can provide equipment mixture to the foreheads of the foursome, for events like weddings. The folding starting with the bride. tables and chairs had an army surplus Then the bride’s oldest brother and his appearance and must have been liberated wife carried out the tikka ceremony and from active service by the street’s presented the groom with an ornate residents and relations. The bride’s two kukhri and a lemon grass necklace so eldest brothers, both retired Captains large it was almost a wreath. This couple were quietly in charge of the preparations were followed by the bride’s three other and later the ceremonies and festivities. brothers and their wives in descending The wedding ceremony was in two order of the brothers’ ages. Then the main parts - the application of tikka to bride’s sisters and their husbands the bride and groom (Risley’s vermilion) followed in order of the sisters’ ages. As and later the dhogbhet.A dhogbhet is each couple came forward, gifts were translated in Turner’s dictionary as a presented, sometimes presents in parcels, ‘formal introduction with presents’. In sometimes money notes discreetly placed between, a meal was served to everyone. in envelopes - and sometimes both. The Both parts of the ceremony took place in best man and bridesmaid also received the bungalow’s neat lounge, but the meal several envelopes. After the immediate was served in the garden. family, uncles and aunts and more distant The formalities began at about relations followed to complete the two o’clock in the afternoon. The ceremony. bridegroom, being far from home, was Once all the relations had completed supplied with a best man drafted in for their turns, the newly married couple him by the bride’s family. The groom went outside and were served the meal of wore the traditional Nepali trousers and rice and curried meat. The ladies of the tunic, a cummerbund, jacket and bride’s family were manning the food colourful topi. The bride wore a dark red table from which the guests collected sari and a gold necklace. Her their food before sitting at the many bridesmaid, a younger cousin, wore a tables set out on the lawn. The tables blue sari. Perhaps in deference to the were arranged so that everyone sat to eat groom’s advancing years the foursome under a colourful awning. At another sat on a long sofa. table drinks were served. The tikka ceremony began as dish of After all had eaten and drunk their fill red powder with rice was brought the dhogbhet began. The bride and forward – the raw material fora. the tikk groom took their places on the sofa in the Two bottles of beer were produced, and lounge once again. then some more. The groom’s An elderly gentleman with a woolly representatives were negotiating with the hat and an ill-fitting pair of glasses came bride’s family. After some bargaining, to sit on the floor in the front near the five rupees were added to the ritual bride bride to take charge of the ceremony. He price. The deal was struck for a nominal was the most senior male member of the 42 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 43 bride’s family. He asked the couple their toddlers, came forward for their turn. names. Then two bottles of beer were While all this was going on, the chatter produced and two old fashioned one and good-natured banter which had rupee coins. The coins were balanced on accompanied the whole day of the crown lids of the beer bottles. The proceedings reached a peak of animation bride and groom were instructed not to – no doubt assisted by the alcohol. Much take other partners and of dire of the talk was of what should happen consequences if they did – which would next in the ceremony and who should do involve the use of kukhris. Then the it. Ceremonies of this sort are a learning bride’s mother began the dhogbhet. Each experience - especially for the young. person who came forward, touched the Towards the end, night had fallen and rupee coins on the beer bottles and then the party slowed down. The bride sat namaste’ed with the bride and then the chatting to her relations and worrying groom. Members of the family called out about the weight of the wedding presents to the groom the correct term of address and her meagre 20 kg airline luggage as he was introduced to his new relations allowance to London. “Never mind my – mother, brother, sister, uncle, aunt and Dear”, I said, “We will just have to pick so on. When all the adults had been out a few of the ones we most want to formally introduced, the children, starting take”. So much for detachment. with the teenagers and ending with the One of the first authentic Nepalese restaurants in London and the only one central London. Enjoy the many special Nepalese dishes that we are well known for. You will get a friendly welcome and the finest, efficient service. Family-run by your hosts Gopal Manandhar and his three sons. Opening times: Monday to Friday: 12 noon to 2.30 pm - 5.30 pm to 11 pm Saturday and Sunday: 12 noon to 2.30 pm - 6 pm to 11 pm Easy parking after 6.30pm and free parking at weekends. 48 Eversholt Street, London NW1 1DA Tel & Fax: 020 7388 6767 E-mail: [email protected] 43 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 44 FROM THE EDITOR’S IN-TRAY Honours and Awards MOD. The scheme provides £10,000 for Professor SP Subedi has been made an each former prisoner of the Japanese. honorary OBE in recognition of his According to a report in The Daily services to international law and his Telegraph the widow of Lt Col O’Neal contribution to Anglo-Nepali relations. 2GR having read about the scheme Members will remember that last year he remembered that her husband, then Capt addressed the Society on the 1923 Treaty O’Neal, himself a prisoner, had kept a list of Friendship between Great Britain and of Gurkha prisoners which had to be Nepal. (See below and 2003 edition of hidden from the Japanese but was later the Journal). recovered by another officer and returned to him in Rangoon. Mrs Veronica O’Neal Gurkha VC sold at auction realized the significance of this list which The VC awarded to Naik (Cpl) Agansing was still in her possession. It has greatly Rai 5th Royal Gurkha Rifles, as a result assisted the team that has the duty to find of his gallant action in storming a and verify all claims for the Japanese bunker at Bishenpur in 1944 compensation award. during the Burma campaign, was sold by Spinks for £132,250 in July. This was the The 1923 Treaty of Friendship first Gurkha VC to be auctioned. Thirteen Following the lecture given by Dr Subedi VCs have been awarded to Gurkhas. to the Society on 14th January 2003, Mr Agansing Rai died at the age of 81, in Timothy George writes: Dharan in 2000. The Daily Telegraph reported that a large proportion of the Sir, ‘hammer price’ was to go to children’s I much enjoyed the article by Professor charities in Nepal as requested by him Subedi about the 1923 Treaty of and his family. Agansing was also Friendship between Great Britain and awarded the Military Medal. Nepal. By replacing the Treaty of Following Partition in 1947 he stayed Segauli, the 1923 Treaty did indeed put with 2/5th GR in the Indian Army. He relations on a new footing, at least from a was promoted to Subadar and was formal point of view. granted the honorary rank of Lieutenant But the antecedents of Segauli are on his retirement. (See obituary in the interesting too. It may well be that King 2000 edition of the journal. Ed.) Prithvi Narayan Shah halted the advance of Captain Kinloch in 1767 – and so Compensation for Gurkha Prisoners of established a de facto boundary with War India. But the war with China, which The compensation scheme for PoWs of ended with the Treaty of 1792, was an the Japanese, which had been originally own goal by Nepal. It happened as a announced by the Government in 2001, consequence of Nepal’s invasion of Tibet. has been extended to Gurkha PoWs However the war of 1815 aimed at following action by veterans against the stopping Nepalese expansionism to find 44 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 45 land on which to settle its retired soldiers possession in the early nineties). rather than at annexing the Kingdom. It Until the British moved out, the Indian was a punitive rather than an expansionist Embassy was housed in Sital Niwas, war – though annexation might well have which became the Foreign Ministry. The happened if the Nepalese had not given British Embassy was then housed in a the invaders a bloody nose. plot alongside the Indian compound Segauli is often referred to as the Anglo- (partly carved out of the Indian Nepal Treaty of 1816. This is wrong. The compound and partly obtained Treaty was concluded on the British side separately). The British also kept the by the Honourable the East India beautiful little cemetery nearby, which is Company, who at that time ruled India, still in use for the occasional burial. not by any authority in London. By contrast the 1923 Treaty was between the Timothy George British Government and the Government (HM Ambassador, 1990-95) of Nepal, and was a full international agreement between sovereign states. It The Natural History Museum was subsequently registered at the The library at the Natural History League of Nations. Museum houses a great collection of In practice however, the Treaty was a artwork from South Asia. Part of this three-part deal. At least according to Fr. collection can be viewed on the Stiller, Delhi continued to call most of Museum’s website at www.nhm.ac.uk/art the shots in India’s dealings with London, The drawings and paintings by local and continuing for instance to appoint the European artists, date from the 18th to Envoy resident in Kathmandu. (Ludwig F the early 20th centuries. Examples Stiller SJ – “Nepal – Growth of a include water colours of Indian birds by Nation”, Kathmandu 1993). As with the Samuel Richard Tickell (c1809 – 1875) Gurkhas, the untangling of the relations painted whilst serving in the Indian Army had to await Indian independence from and the Bentinck Drawings of Himalayan Britain, so that the three parties could birds, probably commissioned from local deal with each other as principals. But artists in the 1830s. the significance of the 1923 Treaty in confirming Nepal’s sovereignty is Vulture Rescue absolutely undeniable. The problem of the catastrophic crash of There is a tailpiece, which demonstrates the vulture population in the sub- the essentially triangular nature of continent was touched upon in the last Britain-Nepal relations even after 1923. journal, and this is still giving cause for When India became independent in 1947, concern. Research seems to indicate that the British Embassies in Nepal and the cause results from cattle that are Afghanistan were declared the property treated with an anti-inflammatory drug of the Indian Government, which had known as diclofenac which are then built them. So India eventually took over consumed by vultures. In turn this leads the Embassy in Kathmandu, while to renal failure and visceral gout in the Pakistan inherited the Embassy in Kabul vulture population. Diclofenac is a cheap (though it only took over actual veterinary drug widely used throughout 45 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 46 the area. Vultures are highly sensitive to tenuirostris), a possible captive breeding small amounts of the drug and the population, to sites abroad away from the residue in the flesh of cattle so treated are contamination. This would be necessary sufficient to cause death. In the last year while the construction of captive an international meeting was held in breeding centres in the sub-continent was Kathmandu as part of the work to address undertaken. It is understood that the the problem and a workshop was held in Nepalese government have offered land India. An organization known as ‘Vulture for such a site in the Chitwan buffer Rescue’ has been established with the zone, probably for the slender-billed RSPB, the Zoological Society of London vulture. Bird Conservation Nepal, led by and the Bombay Natural History Society Dr Hem Sagar Bharal and the King to look at the problem and progress Mahendra Trust for Nature Conservation possible solutions. It may be necessary to (KMTNC) will be involved. The UK remove numbers of the three target chapter of KMTNC are considering species of vulture (the Indian white- providing some modest funding once backed Gyps bengalensis, the long-billed Vulture Rescue’s plans are firmed up. G. Indicus, and the slender-billed G. Registered Charity No: 255249 Since 1968 BNMT has been assisting the people of Nepal to improve their health. We do this by working in partnership with the Ministry of Health, international and local NGOs, local committees and communities to establish and maintain sustainable basic health services The Trust supports four health components: TB/HIV/AIDS; other infectious diseases; reproductive health and essential drug supplies. To continue this work we need your support The Britain-Nepal Medical Trust, Export House, 130 Vale Road, Tonbridge, Kent TN9 1SP Tel: 01732 360284 Fax: 01732 363876 Email: [email protected] www.bnmt.org.np 46 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 47 cl> + + Esther Benjamins 47 cl> 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 48 BOOK REVIEWS Round and About in Asia - The Royal Agra, including the Taj Mahal, the party Society for Asian Affairs Tours 1971 – arrived in Kathmandu and were based in 1995. By Marinel FitzSimons with Susan the Yellow Pagoda hotel. The candles Farrington. The Royal Society for Asian placed in the rooms were much needed Affairs, London, 2004. Pp xvii + 112. for the inevitable power cuts. One B&W Illus. Index. Pb. member, Maj Gen Sir Maurice Dowse, was knocked over by a motorcycle on his Marinel FitzSimons, a member of the initial walk to the bazaar! [Sadly, whilst Britain – Nepal Society, was, for twenty on a later tour to Ladakh in 1986, he seven years, the secretary of the Royal became ill in Leh. He was transferred to Society for Asian Affairs. In 1971 it was an Indian military hospital where he died. decided to mark this Society’s 70th The Indian Army gave him a funeral with anniversary by arranging a tour for full military honours at the Karzoo members. This initial tour to Turkey was cemetery in Leh.] The tour included the so successful that the Society now Kodari road, Pokhara, Lumbini and a normally tries to run a tour to a different memorable visit to Tiger Tops in the part of Asia each year. During Marinel’s Royal Chitwan national Park. The tour to tenure there were twenty three tours, for Bhutan in 1988 included a short trek. As all of which she bore the main planning luck would have it a retired Gurkha responsibility and was the ‘bear leader’. Officer was in the party so with his ability Countries visited include: China, India, to speak Gurkhali he was able to organize Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Indonesia, Taiwan, the porters. However his attempt to make Thailand, Iraq, Iran, Yemen, the Central a formal presentation to the abbot of the Asian Republics and Bhutan. Each nearby monastery fell on deaf ears! This chapter is preceded by an appropriate book is an ideal bedside book that can be black and white reproduction of a suitable read by individual chapters and will photograph or drawing from the Society’s greatly appeal to those who have had the archives. Each tour has a separate chapter pleasure of travelling in Asia. The book, which describes the highlights and the at the very reasonable cost of £5, can be anecdotes as seen by Marinel. bought from the Royal Society of Asian Notwithstanding the august, experienced Affairs, 2, Belgrave Square, London, and knowledgeable membership, tours did SW1X 8PJ. (By post £7.50.) not always go to plan, a not altogether GDB unexpected occurrence when travelling in remote parts of Asia. This often required Duel in the Snows – the true story of Marinel and the members to draw upon the Younghusband Mission to Lhasa. their resourcefulness and stamina. The By Charles Allen. John Murray, London, anecdotes that resulted from the various 2004. Pp xi + 350. Map. B&W photos situations encountered make excellent and line drawings. Gloss. Bibliog. Index. reading. Those who have travelled in Asia Hb. £20. ISBN 0-7195-54276. will readily identify with the experiences The Younghusband Mission to Lhasa in described. The tour to Nepal took place in 1903/04 was the last major event in ‘The 1980, and after a short visit to Delhi and Great Game’ played out between Great 48 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 49 Britain and Russia throughout the 19th brief by imposing harsher conditions on century. The steady eastward expansion of the Tibetans than were authorized. the Russian empire into central Asia was Throughout the mission Younghusband, viewed with suspicion by the British as its political head, had serious Indian government. The latter felt that differences with the mission’s escort such expansion could threaten their commander, Brig-Gen MacDonald. A influence and trading links in the previous work by Peter Fleming, surrounding Himalayan states. The arrival Bayonets to Lhasa, published in 1961 also of Lord Curzon as Viceroy in 1898, a examines the story of the mission and strong advocate of the ‘forward policy’ on sought to justify Younghusband’s action India’s frontiers, was the key to future for which he was censured on return to operations. Curzon was well travelled England. Allen claims that this work with a great knowledge of Asia. Reports relied heavily on Younghusband’s private that Russia was increasing her interest letters and material from surviving and possible influence in Tibet were officers. Allen paints a somewhat different filtering through to Curzon. This served to picture which results from much research increase his view that action should be into letters and diaries of those who took taken to pre-empt any Russian attempts at part as well as official reports. These gaining a foothold in Tibet. The India include diaries written by Cpl Coath and Office at home, however, was less Pte Sampson of the Royal Fusiliers, as convinced that the threat was of such well as those of more senior participants. danger. However these reports chimed These expose the problems and well with Curzon’s views and these, along differences encountered at all levels of the with minor border disputes and mission and he sets it in context of later incursions, led to the eventual, if events. Whilst most modern writers who reluctant, authorization of the mission. concern themselves with the Empire The fact that Curzon had received no usually hold a fair degree of scepticism in reply to letters sent by him to the Dalai respect of it, Allen has uncovered Lama probably exacerbated the situation previously unpublished work that gives a and increased his determination to fuller account of this expedition, throwing proceed. He had the ideal man to lead a different light on its aims and the such an enterprise in Colonel attitudes of those both participating in it Younghusband who, like Curzon, was a and authorizing it. Whilst the mission was man of action and also had travelled a serious undertaking, militarily and widely in central Asia. They knew each logistically, whether the results justified it other and Curzon felt that he could trust are quite another question, and Allen, by Younghusband with such an enterprise. In his research challenges some previous the event the original intelligence reports thinking on this issue. In the light of the from Lhasa and St Petersburg were thin current situation in Iraq, modern day and proved to be exaggerated, however, journalists would have had a field day, since they fitted in with the views already particularly in respect of the large Tibetan held, they were seen by those involved as loss of life. Even Lieutenant Hadow who a justification for the proposed action. had command of the Norfolk Regiment This is not unknown today, and Allen Maxim machine gun detachment wrote, draws the parallel with Iraq and ‘WMD’. following the battle at Chumik Shenko In the event Younghusband exceeded his (p.119), ‘As soon as my guns got to work 49 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 50 the slaughter was terrible, as the Tibetans a Vice-President of the Royal Asiatic fell in heaps where the Maxims struck Society. them. I got so sick of the slaughter that I It was during his posting to Kathmandu ceased fire.’ There are several connections that his interest in Hodgson was first with Nepal in this story. Captain aroused. However, it was not until his Jitbahadur was the Nepalese Consul in retirement that he was able to pursue this Lhasa and was instrumental in assisting interest and was persuaded to put pen to Younghusband in his early negotiations paper on the subject. on his arrival in Lhasa (p. 265). A Hodgson arrived in Calcutta in 1818 battalion of the 8th Gurkha Rifles formed after completing his education at part of the mission escort and Lieutenant Haileybury, founded as a college for Grant was awarded the VC for his action future East India Company employees. in scaling the rock-face at Gyantse Jong. He soon developed a ‘liver condition’ (pp.220, 310). Two other participants, which meant thereafter he was more or Capt O’Connor who was Tibetan less confined to ‘hill area’ postings. His interpreter and assistant to Younghusband, first appointment was to Kumaon for a and Lieutenant FM (‘Eric’) Bailey of the year followed by two years as Assistant 32nd Sikh Pioneers, attached to the Resident in Kathmandu. He returned to Mounted Infantry, subsequently held the Calcutta in 1822 but illness intervened appointment of Resident in Kathmandu. and he returned to Kathmandu, this time This is an eminently readable book as Postmaster, until the Assistant post written in Allen’s easy but informative became vacant in 1825. He took over as style. He uses his references well and has acting Resident in 1829 and was finally listed an extensive bibliography and appointed Resident in 1833 following the glossary.Since there are many players in departure of Maddock in December in this story he has thoughtfully provided an 1832. He remained in post until he was excellent ‘order of battle’, and a clear removed by Lord Ellenborough, the map, which will please Staff College newly appointed Governor-General, in trained officers! In summary Allen has December 1843 over disagreements of provided a well researched and clearly policy in Nepal. Offered a junior post by written account of this last great imperial Ellenborough, Hodgson decided to retire. adventure which deserves a place on the Unable to return to Nepal in a private shelves of anyone with a serious interest capacity, he retired to Darjeeling where in the region and its history. he was able to continue his Himalayan GDB studies. He finally left Darjeeling in 1858 and never returned to the region. The Origins of Himalayan Studies – Hodgson had interested himself in a Brian Houghton Hodgson in Nepal and wide range of studies. Apart from his Darjeeling 1820 – 1858. Edited by David political role, his interests included Waterhouse. RoutledgeCurzon, Abingdon, Buddhism, zoology, ornithology, Oxon, 2004. Pp xxiv + 280. Illus. Colour linguistics, ethnography and ethnology, and B & W plates. Bibliog. Index .Hb. and Buddhist architecture. It became clear £70. ISBN 0-415-31215-9. that in order to do full justice to the wide David Waterhouse, a member of the span of subjects that Hodgson had Society was the British Council Director studied, it would be necessary to obtain in Kathmandu 1972 – 77. He is currently input from relevant experts in all such 50 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 51 disciplines. To this end Waterhouse has used. There are still papers and other gathered together a team of writers that material that have not been fully have succeeded in covering all these examined. Waterhouse has provided a different aspects with great authority. The comprehensive list of material located in team includes John Whelpton, a historian Europe and Asia, no mean undertaking in who has worked in Nepal and has written itself. The breadth of Hodgson’s interest several books on Nepalese history was extremely wide and even allowing for including Jangbahadur in Europe (1983); the fact that he had, by modern standards, Carol Inskipp, an authority on Nepalese time to amuse himself in what was then ornithology (who has lectured to the an extremely remote posting, his efforts Society) who, with Ann Datta, has can only be described as prodigious. That contributed chapters on zoology and he was able carry out so much research ornithology; Professor David Arnold of whilst his movements were largely SOAS, on Hodgson’s time in Darjeeling; confined to the Kathmandu valley, apart JP Losty of the British Library on the from trips down through the Terai to the architecture and Harihar Raj Joshi has Indian border, makes his whole researched Hodgson’s life on the contribution all the more surprising. He domestic front in Kathmandu. From the trained teams of trappers and artists to latter I learnt that in our time in the help him obtain and draw specimens of embassy compound (early 1990s) we may birds and mammals from often very well have employed a dhobi (a Muslim) remote areas. The majority of drawings who had descended from the family that are of a high standard with much serviced Hodgson’s laundry requirements! technical taxonomic detail. A great deal There are detailed chapters on of his ornithological work took place in ethnography and linguistics by Dr Martin the area around the bungalow at Kakani Gaenszle of Heidelberg University and (still in use by the British ambassador) on Professor George van Driem of Leiden the northwest rim of the valley which University respectively and Professor S Bhimsen Thapa had built for him. Sadly, Lopez of Michigan University deals Hodgson was not able to have this work comprehensively with Hodgson’s published due to cost and the British published research papers on Buddhism. establishment’s reluctance to publish Waterhouse himself writes the work which was not produced by British biographical section and assesses artists. Hodgson himself, after retirement Hodgson’s legacy to Himalayan to England, seems to have made rather scholarship. Much of Hodgson’s work half-hearted attempts at publication and is was new to the academic world of his the main reason why he received less time. His remote posting was an obstacle recognition and is less known than might to wider publication. Most of his papers have been the case, although he was were published through the Asiatic elected a fellow of the Royal Society in Society of Bengal in Calcutta It was also 1877, and other learned societies also possible for rivals to capitalise on awarded him various medals and honours. Hodgson’s research material that had His main contribution to all the various been sent to India or back to England subjects in which he interested himself since he could not easily influence or has been described as a collector, recorder supervise how this material (including and interpreter. He was early in the field skins of birds) was being (or not being) and, perforce, had to operate in a narrow 51 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 52 area without the ability to see a wider from which much further research is picture. possible. Nevertheless it is largely written The breadth of Hodgson’s interests in a way that can be assimilated and meant that it was necessary for Waterhouse enjoyed by the general reader who has a to gather together a team of experts to more than passing interest in Nepal and its assess Hodgson’s work, and they have history. It is shame that the publishers have done full justice to their task. There is an thought it necessary to price the book so excellent index and a very full highly which will limit the number of bibliography. This book has been very well potential readers and purchasers. produced and is a serious academic work GDB ADVERTISEMENTSINTHEJOURNAL Why not advertise in the Britain-Nepal Society Jour nal . There is a countrywide membership with a large range of interests related to Nepal. You never know who may be i nterested! Please contact Dr Peter Trott, Treasurer/Publicity 52 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 53 OBITUARIES Maj Gen J A R Robertson CB CBE educated at Epsom College and DSO* DL Sandhurst. Commissioned in 1930 into Jim Robertson was a remarkable man – a the Indian Army, he spent a year serving fighting soldier for nearly all his 35 years with the Kings Own Yorkshire Light in the Army; he saw active service in Infantry (KOYLI) before joining the 1st every rank except full Colonel from 2nd battalion 6th Gurkha Rifles on active Lieutenant to Major General; he service at Razmak in Waziristan in 1931, commanded two Gurkha battalions on (the battalion he subsequently jungle operations in two theatres of war, commanded in 1947 and from 1961 to saw action in command of two different 1969 was Colonel of the Regiment). brigades in three separate theatres and Regimental life for him during the both his appointments as a Major General 1930’s was typical of the time and place; in command involved active service, once hard training and plenty of sport with the again in two different theatres. His two men, game shooting and fishing to relax; Distinguished Service Orders (DSO) and the life interspersed with periods of active four Mentions in Despatches (MID) service in the North West Frontier tribal recognise his inspirational leadership and conflicts. The Regimental home was in courage. Abbottabad, a family station that Jim described as “delightful”, at an elevation of 4000ft it was cold and had some snow in winter, a good summer and a feeble monsoon. The garrison included a polo ground, a swimming pool, five tennis courts, attractive bungalows, a Church and a Club that held dances on a Saturday night. At the outbreak of war in 1939 Jim was Adjutant of his battalion, stationed in the Malakand. Selected for Staff training he attended the Army Staff College at Quetta and was then posted as Brigade Major to the 1st Burma (Maymyo) Brigade in the Shan States. The 1942 Japanese assault into Burma reached Mandalay and resulted in the retreat of 17 Indian Division with Jim’s Brigade acting as their rearguard. The Brigade’s final battle included hand-to-hand fighting within the Born in Nainital, Uttar Pradesh on 23 Brigade HQ and an “every man for March 1910, the son of Colonel J C himself” withdrawal across the Irrawady Robertson Indian Medical Service, he was River. The battle had temporarily halted 53 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 54 the Japanese advance and the remnants of Having taken his battalion to Malaya in the Brigade reformed and continued the 1948 at the outbreak of the Emergency, he retreat into India; Brigade HQ settling in was quickly plucked out of command to Shillong. Jim then joined 56th Gurkha become Brigadier General Staff, Malaya Rifles, a training unit specialising in Command. In 1950, in order to jungle warfare, a “finishing school” for experience wider service in the British 5th Royal Gurkha Rifles (Frontier Force) Army after a 17 year career in the Indian and 6th Gurkha Rifles recruits before they Army, he reverted to the rank of full joined their battalions. Colonel at his own request and served in In February 1944 Jim returned to Staff appointments in The War Office in Burma to command the 1st battalion 7th London and 1 (British) Corps in West Gurkha Rifles in the Chin Hills. During Germany. the next fourteen months of hard fighting In 1955 Jim took command of 51st Jim received a facial wound from grenade Independent Lorried Infantry Brigade in splinters during an action in which Tel-el-Kebir in Egypt and moved it to Rifleman Ganju Lama was awarded a Cyprus at the outbreak of the EOKA Military Medal. Jim was evacuated to terrorist campaign. After two years of hospital in Calcutta. With a broken jaw he continuous operations, he and his Brigade was initially unable to talk and used a HQ flew to Muscat to command a hastily slate and pencil to communicate and assembled force that successfully put exchange jokes with his ward mates. down a rebellion against the Sultan. Though still in hospital when Ganju won Promoted Major General in 1958 he his Victoria Cross, he was subsequently returned to Malaya appointed General present at the parade in Delhi to witness Officer Commanding (GOC) 17th Gurkha the historic event at which General “Bill” Division with the task of completing the Slim pushed Ganju’s wheelchair up to the defeat of the remaining Communist Viceroy, Field Marshal Lord Wavell to Terrorists (CTs). For 10 years Gurkha receive his Victoria Cross. Jim returned troops had played a key role in operations to command the battalion, was awarded against the CTs and Jim’s wartime an immediate DSO, and later a bar, for experiences, knowledge of the Gurkha his outstanding leadership in a bloody, soldier and personal reputation made him prolonged and eventually successful battle an extremely popular GOC and ex-officio to dislodge a fanatical enemy defending a Major General Brigade of Gurkhas large ammunition dump near Meiktila. (MGBG). The Malayan Emergency In May 1945 Jim took command of 48 officially ended on 31 July 1960. Indian Infantry Brigade in time to receive In 1961 Jim was again appointed to an the surrender of the Japanese Forces in operational command as GOC Middle south Burma. After two years as a East Land Forces in Aden. In an early Temporary Brigadier, Jim reverted to his precursor to the first Gulf War, Iraq’s substantive rank of Lieutenant Colonel leader, Abdul Karim Qassim indicated his and was appointed to the Directing Staff intention to annex Kuwait, a country with of the Army Staff College at Quetta and which the UK had Treaty obligations. then to the command of 1st battalion 6th Jim arranged for 24th Infantry Brigade to Gurkha Rifles. be flown in from Kenya to join 42 Marine 54 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 55 Commando embarked on HMS Bulwark the Club as a “Teddy boy”, accompanied and with troops already under his by his similarly attired ADC. command, created a show of superior He was appointed MBE in 1942; force which successfully dissuaded promoted OBE in 1949 and to CBE in Qassim from his intention without a shot 1956. He was appointed CB in 1958. being fired. In retirement he lived in St John’s Retiring in 1964 to take up a five year Wood in London. A skilful water- tenure in the post of Personnel Director of colourist and sculptor, he also made NAAFI, he enjoyed travelling worldwide beautifully crafted and furnished dolls’ to all military bases and particularly those houses. He made excellent cine-films locations where he could spend some often with separately recorded sound time with his beloved Gurkhas. tracks and was a keen gardener. General Jim was Colonel 6th Queen He was a stoic throughout his life. At Elizabeth’s Own Gurkha Rifles from the age of 85 he was severely injured in a 1961 to 1969, was Chairman of the freak accident whilst walking near his Gurkha Brigade Association from 1968 to home. A wheel that had come off a lorry 1980 and President from 1980 to 1987. struck him and shattered a leg that He was a Deputy Lieutenant of Greater subsequently had to be amputated. It is London from 1977 to 1979 and worked recorded that when a paramedic at the for the National Canine Defence League, scene asked how he was, Jim’s laconic (now The Dogs Trust) for many years. response was, “well it does hurt a bit”! Jim married first, in Kuala Lumpur Despite his disability he continued to Malaya in August 1950, Ann Toswill. In attend Brigade of Gurkhas and a cruel twist of fate she contracted polio Regimental functions whenever possible. within a few days of marriage and died a As most distinguished senior officer in month later. He married secondly, in the Brigade of Gurkhas when the Britain- January1972, Joan Wills who brought him Nepal Society was in its infancy, he the contentment of a loving family life became a strong supporter of society but sadly too late for fatherhood. Indeed, events. Older members will remember Joan’s daughter Gail was married the year him at lectures at the Alpine Club. He was after Joan and Jim. Joan’s premature very supportive of the committee in these death in 2003 was another cruel blow that early days and was always ready to help hit Jim very hard. with advice and contacts in the Brigade. During his service Jim was renowned He was made a vice-president of the for his warm hospitality towards both society. adult guests and children; the latter Jim died on 11 February 2004. A very exampled by the parties he regularly well attended thanksgiving service to arranged for young children and teenagers celebrate his life was held in the whilst GOC in Malaya, during which he Memorial Chapel at the Royal Military energetically joined in the activities. He Academy, Sandhurst on 21 May 2004. had a well developed sense of fun, on one The expression “Officer and occasion being dressed as a “Flapper” for Gentleman” might have been devised a fancy dress party in Flagstaff House and with General Jim Robertson in mind. As then appearing immediately afterwards in a senior officer, he could plot the bloody 55 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 56 demise of the King’s or Queen’s enemies years as Secretary-General of the Royal or deliver a blistering “rocket” if that was Commonwealth Society. what the situation required. Yet he was This enabled him to continue his unfailingly courteous to people of all ages, ranks and races. He was a truly distinguished soldier and outstanding human being. (The Editor acknowledges with thanks the permission of Major General R A Pett CB MBE to use material from his eulogy in compiling this obituary Sir Michael Scott KCVO CMG Michael Scott, who died on 9th June 2004 aged 81, had a lifetime interest in Sir Michael & Lady Scott with HRH Nepal. This started in World War II when, Prince Gyanendra and HE Mr Ashwari following attendance at Durham Raj Pande at 25th Anniversary University, he was granted an emergency celebration of the Society at the commission in the Durham Light Infantry Banqueting Hall, Whitehall. in 1941. He subsequently transferred to the Indian Army and the 1st Gurkha interest and work with many of the Rifles, with whom he served from 1943 countries in which he had served. He to 1947. His brother, Peter, also served in continued his interest in Nepal and its the same Regiment. During his service he wildlife conservation as a Director of the became an instructor at the Indian Tiger Mountain Group and as a Military Academy and learnt Urdu, Hindi committee member of the King Mahendra and Gurkhali. It was this experience that (UK) Trust for Nature Conservation. He started his great interest in the Indian sub was a strong supporter of the Society and continent. Having joined the Foreign served on the committee where his Office after the war he found himself experience and wise counsel were sought. back in the sub continent as First In recent years he acted as a ‘research Secretary in Karachi (1958-59), Deputy assistant’ to the late AP (‘Jimmy’) High Commissioner, Peshawar (1959-62) Coleman, also an officer of the 1st and Counsellor and Director of the British Gurkha Rifles (See obituary in the 2000 Information Services in India (1963-65). edition of the journal. Ed.) when the latter Following a tour of duty in London he was working on his book, A Special was appointed Deputy High Corps, (See review in the 1999 edition of Commissioner in Nicosia (1968-72) and the journal. Ed.). Sir Michael too was a then attended the Royal College of leading member of the 1st GR Regimental Defence Studies in 1973. He was then Association. During his service with the appointed ambassador to Nepal from FCO he became aware of the need for aid 1974-77. His last two appointments were to be provided at the ‘grass roots’ level. as High Commissioner in Malawi and To that end he was involved with the latterly in Bangladesh. He then spent five Overseas Development Institute, the 56 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 57 International Agricultural Training restricted his sporting activities. Again for Programme and the Drive for Youth his last few years he was dogged by poor Programme with the BBC news presenter health which he bore with patience and Martyn Lewis. The latter innovative good humour with the strong support of programme involved widening the his wife, Jennifer, whom he had met and horizons of under privileged children in married whilst serving in Cyprus. She at UK by giving them chances to participate that time was with the US Embassy. His in projects abroad. His career in the FCO was a life of service to Queen and was a distinguished one; head of three country. His old friend, Mr Desmond missions and having three Royal visits Watkins, whom he had known and helped whilst in Peshawar 1961 (state visit of in the early 1960s summed up his life: HM The Queen), Kathmandu 1975 (HRH ‘Michael was, in every sense, a giver. He The Prince of Wales, TRH The Duke and gave the best of himself and he never Duchess of Gloucester and Lord stopped doing so…. Mountbatten – the delegation to the In everything he did he was positive coronation of His Late Majesty King and he had purpose and commitment. Birendra Bir Bikram Shah Dev) and Michael was a true Christian in word and Malawi 1979 (the state visit of HM The deed. He believed and acted like the Queen). Sadly he was not blessed with Christian Knight that he was.’ good health having been struck by poliomyelitis in his early twenties which TANDOORI AND CURRY RESTAURANT (Fully Air Conditioned) Private room available for up to 40 persons. Parties catered for 268 KING STREET HAMMERSMITH LONDON W6 0SP TELEPHONE: 020 8748 3586, 020 8741 2057 57 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 58 IMPORTANT ADDRESSES The King Mahendra U.K. Trust for GAP House Nature Conservation 44 Queen’s Road 15 Old Bailey Reading London EC4M 7EF Berkshire RG1 4BB Tel (020) 7506 1000 Tel (0118) 959 4914 The Gurkha Welfare Trust The Wilderness Trust PO Box 18215 c/o ECCO Tours Ltd 2nd Floor, 1 Old Street 4 Macclesfield Street London EC1V 9XB London W1V 7LB Tel (020) 7251 5234 Tel and Fax (020) 7494 1300 Fax (020) 7251 5248 The Britain-Nepal Medical Trust School of Oriental and African Studies 130 Vale Road University of London Tonbridge Thornhaugh Street, Russell Square Kent TN9 1SP London WC1H 0XG Tel (01732) 360284 Tel (020) 7898 4034 The Gurkha Museum The Britain Nepal Otology Service Peninsula Barracks (BRINOS) Romsey Road 2 West Road Winchester Guildford GU1 2AU Hampshire SO23 8TS Tel (01483) 569719 Tel (01962) 842832 Fax (01483) 306380 Britain-Nepal Chamber of Commerce Yeti Association PO Box BNCC (Nepali Association in UK) c/o 12a Kensington Palace Gardens Mr Harish Karki London W8 4QU Johnnie Gurkha’s 186 Victoria Road The Pahar Trust Aldershot c/o Tom Langridge Hants. 5 Foxsteep Cottage Tel (01252) 328773 Crazies Hill Wargrave Berks RG10 8NB KEEP (UK) Tel (01734) 404004 Johnnie Woods Flat 5A 6 Randall Park Belfast BT9 6JJ Tel (028) 9038 2977 If your address has not been included here or has changed please accept our apologies and request inclusion in the next journal. Ed. 58 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 59 NOTES ON THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY Patron: HRH Princess Jotshana Rajya Laxmi Devi Basnyat President: HRH The Duke of Gloucester KG GCVO The Britain-Nepal Society was founded membership. in 1960 to promote good relations Members of the Yeti Association which between the peoples of the UK and provides equally for Nepalese residents Nepal. We especially wish to foster or those staying in this country are also friendship between UK citizens with a welcome to attend the Britain-Nepal particular interest in Nepal and Nepalese Society’s functions, and can become full citizens resident – whether permanently members of the Britain-Nepal Society in or temporarily – in this country. A much the usual way. The Yeti is a flourishing valued feature of the Society is the ease organization and they publish their own and conviviality with which members of attractive journal. every background and all ages mingle Throughout the year, the Society holds together. a programme of evening lectures, which Members are drawn from all walks of are currently held at the Society of life including mountaineers, travellers, Antiquaries, Burlington House, teachers, returned volunteers, aid Piccadilly, where members are workers, doctors, business people, encouraged to meet each other over a members of the Diplomatic Service and drink beforehand. serving and retired officers of the Brigade The Society holds an Annual Nepali of Gurkhas. The bond they all share is Supper, usually in February and a an abiding interest in and affection for Summer Outing, which is often shared Nepal and the Nepalese people. with the Yeti Association. In the autumn Membership is open to those of all ages we hold our AGM, which is followed by over 18 and a particular welcome goes to a curry supper which normally takes applications from those under 35. place at the Royal Nepalese Embassy. Ordinary members pay a subscription The Society also holds receptions and of £15 (husband and wife members £25) hospitality for visiting senior Nepalese. per annum. Life membership is a single Apart from the Summer Outing, events payment of £300, joint life membership, normally take place in London. a payment of £500, and corporate The Committee is actively seeking business members £50 and charities £25 suggestions from members for ways of per annum. Concessionary rates are expanding and developing the available at both ends of the age range. programme. The annual journal includes a wide Those interested in joining the Society range of articles about Nepal and is sent should write to the Honorary free to all members. Membership Secretary: We keep in close touch with the Nepal- Mrs Pat Mellor Britain Society in Kathmandu, and their 3 (c) Gunnersbury Avenue members are welcome to attend all the Ealing Common Britain-Nepal Society’s functions. London W5 3NH However we do not have reciprocal Tel: 020 8992 0173 59 37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT:37905 Britain Nepal 28 TEXT 20/10/11 09:58 Page 60 THE BRITAIN-NEPAL SOCIETY Patron: Her Royal Highness Princess Jotshana Rajya Laxmi Devi Basnyat President: His Royal Highness The Duke of Gloucester KG, GCVO Vice-Presidents His Excellency The Royal Nepalese Ambassador Lieutenant Colonel CG Wylie OBE Mr ARH Kellas CMG Brigadier AB Taggart MC Lieutenant Colonel HCS Gregory OBE, KSG Mrs Celia Brown# Colonel JM Evans MC Sir Neil Thorne OBE, TD, DL Mr Peter A Leggatt MBE Mrs Pat Mellor** Committee Chairman: Lieutenant Colonel Gerry D Birch* Vice-Chairman: Mr John L Ackroyd Honorary Secretary: Mr Neil Weir Honorary Treasurer: Dr Peter A Trott Mrs Liza Clifton Mr Will Dodsworth Miss Maya Gurung Miss Louisa Hutchinson Mr Harish Karki Miss Jane Loveless Mrs Sneha Rana Mr Stuart Sessions MBE Mrs Joanna Thomas Mr Dipendra Pratap Bista, Minister Counsellor, Royal Nepalese Embassy (ex officio) Mr Tom Crofts, FCO (ex officio) Major PH Gay, Brigade of Gurkhas Secretariat (ex officio) Editor of the Journal: Lieutenant Colonel GD Birch* Honorary Membership Secretary: Mrs Pat Mellor** Archivist: Mrs Celia Brown # 60