The Charm of the Chiltern Hills

Home , Aston Clinton Ragpits, Bernwood Meadows, Butlers Cross, Hartslock, Homefield Wood, Moor Copse

Naturetrek Tour Report 18 - 20 May 2016

Green-winged Orchid (pale form) Lady Orchid

Northern Lapwing

Report compiled by Barry Oxley Images by Barry Oxley & David Fry

Naturetrek Mingledown Barn Wolf's Lane Chawton Alton Hampshire GU34 3HJ UK T: +44 (0)1962 733051 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk

Tour Report The Charm of the Chiltern Hills

Tour participants: Barry Oxley (leader), Alan Parfitt (Thursday guide) and four Naturetrek clients

Summary

This tour is designed to give a flavour of the birds, flowers and wildlife of the Chilterns and, as a contrast, a visit to a nearby RSPB wetland reserve. Although it had been a mild winter and we were experiencing a cold spring, this did not affect our target plants too much, except we missed the wonderful displays of Bluebells for which the Beech woodlands of the Chilterns are renowned.

The swathes of Early Purple, Green-winged and Military Orchids were at their best whereas other, more subtle, species needing more care in finding. The hybrids of Monkey and Lady Orchid at Hartslock made a wonderful display with Pasque Flowers as a bonus.

Although the weather was rather unkind, this did not curtail any of our activities and the tour covered a good mix of the habitats and villages of the Chilterns, finishing with a visit to the plains of Oxfordshire at Otmoor.

Day 1 Wednesday 18th May

We assembled at the comfortable Lambert Arms hotel at the foot of the Chilterns, made our introductions and then departed for our first days’ exploration of the area. As we had a shortened day we visited local reserves and areas but reversed our itinerary to allow the rain to pass. We stopped for a welcome coffee at Wendover Garden Centre before going to Aston Clinton Ragpits. We knew we would be too early for the main display of orchids, however Twayblades were abundant and we gained our first taste of the common flora of the chalk escarpment. Roman snails were abundant and enjoying the wet conditions, prompting discussions about the merits of escargot.

Returning through Wendover, we turned at Butlers Cross, passing Chequers before arriving at Pulpits Hill. Alexanders and Green Alkanet were flowering in the car park as we departed for a short walk along an ancient sunken track, emerging at the top of the hill overlooking the Aylesbury plain. Juniper is being re-introduced here to offset the grazing of rabbits and deer. A steep slope accommodated a fine stand of Hartstongue Fern growing under the pristine beech leaf canopy.

Lunch was at Chris’s Café and we arrived just in time to witness the spectacle of 60 Red Kites being fed. We all enjoyed watching the antics of these spectacular birds as they snatched particles of food from the car park. We then left for our final destination of the day.

It had stopped raining as we parked in Cowlease Wood car park and made for Aston Rowant Nature Reserve. The chalky slopes were too steep for cultivation resulting in an abundance of wild flowers which are particularly attractive to butterflies and insects in the summer. Greater Butterfly Orchids were emerging with a few in bud and Cowslips clothed the slopes as we passed under Whitebeam trees and eventually emerged in a field of Early Purple Orchids. Returning via an ancient cart track, used for centuries by our ancestors to climb from the vale into the Chilterns, we stopped for a look at a rare Fly Honeysuckle before returning to Cowlease Wood for a short walk. Here Yellow Archangel and some fine specimens of the wild Gean were discovered before we

The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

returned to our nearby hotel. The Beech woodlands were at their very best and although probably all planted to feed the furniture industry at High Wycombe, they are undoubtedly a spectacular feature of the Chilterns.

After an enjoyable evening meal we retired to be ready for an early start to explore the south-eastern corner of the Chilterns.

Day 2 Thursday 19th May

With a long day ahead of us, we had an 8am start and made for a nearby site to meet Alan, our guide for the day. Alan has been involved in the expansion of the rare Military Orchids of the Chilterns for many years, increasing the population from a few to over a hundred flowering plants. We parked and walked into a steep field, passing Fly Orchids as we made for the stately spires of the Military Orchid. Although the flowers were protected by wire frames from being eaten by deer and rabbits, this did not detract from their charm.

We then moved to Moor Copse Common for a brief look at a small wetland site. Here numerous Southern Marsh Orchid leaves were evident, promising a splendid display when in flower. Also a lone Lousewort was emerging and Song Thrush, Willow Warbler and Common Chiffchaff were in full song in the adjoining woodland. We then moved to Homefield Wood, another site for Military Orchid, and here were more Fly Orchids and a similar flora to our earlier site. Small Heath and Holly Blue butterflies had emerged in the sheltered paddock as we made for the woodland walk, finding a few Spurge Laurel plants which had finished flowering and Wood Spurge.

The village of Hambleden was our next stop for a coffee and to explore this typical Chilterns hamlet. The wall flora was interesting. Growing on many of the low house wall boundaries were Pellitory of the Wall, Ivy-leaved Toadflax, Red Valerian, a wall Spleenwort, Yellow Fumitory, Herb Robert, Biting Stonecrop, and Dove’s Foot Cranesbill at the base. Common Swifts were flying low and screaming around the buildings as we walked to a chalk stream to view the flora. Chalk streams are a rare habitat and can dry up in the summer. This one was still running freely and we noted Watercress and Common Water Crows-foot before making for the Maltzers Arms for lunch.

A pleasant lunch was enjoyed before departing for the Berks, Bucks & Oxon Wildlife Trust (BBOWT) Hartslock site. Parking here is always tricky so we were relieved to find a suitable spot. We then ascended a steep hill to be presented with a flower spectacular of orchids. The view here was also amazing as we looked down on the magnificent River Thames flowing through the countryside. We were on the southern boundary of the Chilterns Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). The orchids were intriguing as the Monkey Orchids and Lady Orchids had produced some startlingly vigorous hybrids which dominated the hillside. Alan remarked about the scarcity of the Lady Orchid. We only found one and he was concerned about the future of this isolated population. Moving further into the field, we found a small remnant population of Pasque Flowers which had been re-introduced a few years earlier. After watching Eurasian Hobby catching dragonflies and chasing Common Swifts we returned, stopping to sort out the difference between Common and Chalk Milkworts, and finding the diminutive and distinctly odd Adders-tongue Fern.

Our last visit was to the BBOWT Walburg reserve. As expected, we were a little early for the main orchid display, finding more of those already seen, however we wanted to see the strangely beautiful Herb Paris, and

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The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

then found many more Spurge Laurel plants and a Green Hellebore. We spent a few minutes in the hide overlooking a small pond where Bogbean and Greater Spearwort were flowering before returning to the hotel and another splendid dinner.

Day 3 Friday 20th May

It was prudent to vacate the hotel and take our cars with us on our last day. We headed west, out of the Chilterns towards the Aylesbury plain and Otmoor. Here we spent a delightful bird-filled morning finding Common Whitethroat, Common Linnet and Sedge Warbler, and listening to Lesser Whitethroat and Garden Warbler as we left the car park. Two European Turtle Doves were purring as we arrived at the bridge and allowed good views as we listened to Common Cuckoos and a Eurasian Curlew calling. A Common Snipe flew over our heads and kindly ‘drummed’ on cue. We slowly walked along the bridleway trying to spot the ever present Eurasian Reed Warblers competing for their patch of reeds. Common Swifts again were low and zooming above our heads as we watched Northern Lapwing fight off the predatory Carrion Crows and Red Kites. Common Reed Buntings were abundant as we walked to the top screen to see the breeding Common Terns, but alas we had to tear ourselves away from this wonderful RSPB reserve to adjourn to the Abingdon Arms for lunch.

After an enjoyable lunch we headed to another BBOWT reserve for our last flower spectacle. Bernwood Meadows was at its best with a fine display of Green-winged Orchids. Although the flowers were mostly purple, there were spatterings of white and pink morphs. A Yellowhammer was singing and we enjoyed a last walk through the ancient ridge and furrow meadows, finding a few pink Early Marsh Orchids, before saying our goodbyes and making for home.

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Pasque flower by David Fry

The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

Species Lists

Plants Scientific Name Common Name Location

PINOPSIDA (GYMNOSPERMS) CONIFERS

Cupressaceae Juniper Family Juniperus communis Juniper Pulpit Hill

Pinaceae Pine Family Larix decidua European Larch x Picea abies ssp. abies Spruce x Pinus sylvestris Scots Pine x

Taxaceae Yew Family Taxus baccata Yew x

MAGNOLIOPSIDA (ANGIOSPERMS) FLOWERING PLANTS

Aceraceae Maple Family Acer pseudoplatanus Sycamore x

Apiaceae (Umbelliferae) Carrot Family Aegipodium podagaria Ground Elder x Anthriscus sylvestris Cow Parsley x Heracleum sphondyllium Hogweed x Sanicula europaea Sanicle Cowlease Wood Torilis japonica Upright Hedge Parsley Hartslock

Aquifoliaceae Holly Family Ilex aquifolia Holly x

Araliaceae Ivy Family Hedera helix agg Ivy x

Asteraceae (Compositae) Daisy Family Bellis perennis Daisy x Carlina vulgaris Carline Thistle Swains Wood seed heads Leucanthimum vulgare Ox-eye Daisy x Senecio jacobae Common Ragwort x Taraxacum agg Dandelion x Tragapogon pratensis Goat's-beard x

Betulaceae (Corylaceae) Birch Family Betula pendula Silver Birch x

Boraginaceae Forget-me-not Family Myosotis arvensis Field Forget-me-not x Myosotis sylvatica Wood Forget-me-not x Pentaglottis sempervirens Green Alkanet Pulpit Hill

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The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

Scientific Name Common Name Location

Brassicaceae (Cruciferae) Cabbage Family Alliaria petiolata Garlic Mustard x Lady's Smock - Cuckoo Cardamine pratensis x Flower

Caprifoliaceae Honeysuckle Family Viburnum lantana Wayfaring Tree Pulpit Hill Viburnum opulus Guelder Rose Pulpit Hill Lonicera Fly Honeysuckle Aston Rowant NR

Caryophyllaceae Pink Family Silene dioica Red Campion x Silene latifolia (S.alba) White Campion x Stellaria holostea Greater Stitchwort x

Celastraceae Spindle-tree Family Euonymus europaeus Spindle-tree Hartslock and Otmoor

Cistaceae Rock-rose Family Helianthimum nummularium Common Rockrose Hartslock

Clusiaceae St. John’s-wort Family Hypericum hirsutum Hairy St.John’s-wort x

Cornaceae Dogwood Family Cornus sanguinea Dogwood x

Corylaceae Hazel Family Corylus avellana Hazel x

Crassulaceae Stonecrop Family Sedum acre Biting Stonecrop Hambleden

Cucurbitaceae Cucumber Family Bryonia dioica White Bryony x

Dipsacaceae Teasel Family Dipsacus fullonum Teasel x seed heads Devils bit scabious Otmoor leaves

Euphorbiaceae Spurge Family Euphorbia amygdaloides Wood Spurge x Mercurialis perennis Dog’s Mercury x

Fabaceae (Leguminosae) Pea Family Hippocrepis comosa Horseshoe Vetch Swains Wood Lotus corniculatus Bird’s-foot Trefoil x Medicago lupulina Black Medick x Trifolium campestris Hop Trefoil x Trifolium pratense Red Clover x Vicia sepium Bush Vetch x

The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

Scientific Name Common Name Location

Fagaceae Oak & Beech Family Carpinus betulus Hornbeam x Fagus sylvatica Beech x Quercus robor Pedunculate Oak x

Fumariaceae Fumitory Family Hambleden Yellow fumitory Hambleden

Geraniaceae Geranium Family Geranium molle Dove’s-foot Crane’s-bill Hambleden Geranium robertianum Herb Robert x

Lamiaceae (Labiatae) Dead-nettle Family Glechoma hederacea Ground-ivy x Lamium album White Deadnettle x Lamium galeobdolon Yellow Archangel Cowlease Wood Oregano officinalis Marjoram Aston Rowant NR Prunella vulgaris Selfheal x Thymus polytrichis Wild Thyme x

Oleaceae Olive Family Fraxinus excelsior Ash x Ligustrum vulgare Wild Privet Pulpit Hill and Hartslock

Oxalidaceae Wood-sorrel Family Oxalis acetosella Wood-sorrel Cowlease wood

Polygalaceae Milkwort Family Polygala vulgaris Common Milkwort x Polygala calcarea Chalk Milkwort Hartslock

Polygonaceae Knotweed Family Rumex acetosella Sheep's Sorrel x

Primulaceae Primrose Family Primula veris Cowslip Aston Rowant NR and Hartslock Primula vulgaris Primrose x

Ranunculaceae Buttercup Family Anemone nemorosa Wood Anemone Cowlease wood Clematis vitalba Old man’s-beard x Ranunculus acris Meadow Buttercup x Ranunculus lingua Greater Spearwort Warburg

Resedaceae Mignonette Family Reseda lutea Wild Mignonette x

Rosaceae Rose Family Crataegus monogyna Hawthorn x Fragaria vesca Wild Strawberry x Filipendula ulmaria Meadowsweet x Potentilla anserina Silverweed x Prunus avium Wild Cherry Cowlease wood

The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

Scientific Name Common Name Location

Prunus spinosa Blackthorn x Rosa canina agg Dog Rose x Rubus fruticosus agg Bramble x Sanguisorba minor agg Salad Burnet x Sorbus aria agg Whitebeam Aston Rowant and Hartslock

Rubiaceae Bedstraw Family Cruciata laevipes Crosswort Aston Rowant Galium aparine Cleevers x

Scrophulariaceae Figwort Family Cymbalaria muralis Ivy-leaved Toadflax Hambleden Digitalis purpurea Foxglove x Rhinanthus minor agg Hay Rattle x Scrophularia nodosa Common Figwort x Veronica chamaedrys Germander Speedwell x

Thymelaeaceae Daphne Family Daphne laureola Spurge-laurel Homefield wood and Warburg

Urticacae Nettle Family Parietaria judaica Pelitory of the Wall Hambleden Urtica dioica Common Nettle x Stachys officinalis Betony Moor Copse Common leaves only

Valerianaceae Valerian Family Centranthus ruber Red Valerian Hambleden

Violaceae Violet Family Viola hirta Hairy Violet x

Liliidae (Monocotyledons) Araceae Arum Family Arum maculatum Lords and Ladies x

Asparagaceae Bluebell Family Hyacinthoides non-scripta Bluebell x

Iridaceae Iris Family Iris psuedocorus Yellow Flag Warburg

Liliaceae Lily Family Paris quadrifolia Herb-Paris Warburg

Orchidaceae Orchid Family Platanthera chlorantha Greater Butterfly-orchid Aston Rowant NR Cephalanthera damasonium White Helleborine Hartslock Dactylorhiza fuchsii Common Spotted Orchid Leaves only at various places Leaves only at Moor Copse Dactylorhiza praetermissa Southern Marsh Orchid Common Orchis militaris Military Orchid Swains and Homefield wood Orchis simia Monkey Orchid Hartslock Orchis purpurea Lady Orchid Hartslock

The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

Scientific Name Common Name Location

Listera ovata Twayblade Aston Clinton Ragpits and others Ophrys insectifera Fly Orchid Homefield and Swains wood Early Purple Orchid Aston Rowant NR Green-winged Orchid Bernwood Meadows Early Marsh Orchid Bernwood Meadows

Ferns Wall Spleenwort Hambleden Hartstongue Fern Pulpit Hill Adders tongue Fern Hartslock Bracken x

Other plants Ranunculus aquatilis Common Water Crowsfoot Hambleden Typha latifolia Bulrush Moor Copse Common Watercress Hambleden Chelidonia majus Greater Celandine Hambleden Ranunculus vicaria Lesser Celandine x Menyanthes trifoliata Bogbean Warburg Galium odoratum Woodruff x Helleborus viridis Green Hellebore Warburg Lousewort Moor Copse Common

Birds (=recorded but not counted; h = heard only) May Common name Scientific name 18 19 20 1 Red-legged Partridge Alectoris rufa  2 Common Pheasant Phasianus colchicus  3 Greylag Goose Anser anser  4 Canada Goose Branta canadensis   5 Mute Swan Cygnus olor   6 Gadwall Anas strepera 2 7 Mallard Anas platyrhynchos    8 Common Pochard Aythya ferina 4 9 Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula 12 10 Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis h 11 Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus 2 12 Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 3 13 Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 1 14 Red Kite Milvus milvus c.70 30 10 15 Common Buzzard Buteo buteo 1 3 16 Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus 1 17 Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo 3 2 18 Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus  19 Eurasian Coot Fulica atra  20 Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus c.40 21 Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata h 22 Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago 1 23 Black-headed Gull Chroicocephalus ridibundus 3  24 Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus 1 25 Common Tern Sterna hirundo 3 26 Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon Columba livia 'feral'   

The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

May Common name Scientific name 18 19 20 27 Common Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus    28 European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur 2 29 Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto    30 Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus 2 31 Tawny Owl Strix aluco h 32 Common Swift Apus apus 6 c.50 33 Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major h 34 European Green Woodpecker Picus viridis 1 h 35 Eurasian Magpie Pica pica    36 Western Jackdaw Coloeus monedula    37 Rook Corvus frugilegus   38 Carrion Crow Corvus corone    39 Coal Tit Periparus ater 1 40 Great Tit Parus major h  41 Eurasian Blue Tit Cyanistes caeruleus    42 Eurasian Skylark Alauda arvensis   1 43 Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica 4 2 44 Common House Martin Delichon urbicum 2 3 45 Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus h 46 Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita h h 2 47 Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus 3 48 Eurasian Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus 2 49 Eurasian Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla 2 h 2 50 Garden Warbler Sylvia borin h h h 51 Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca h 52 Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis 1 2 53 Goldcrest Regulus regulus h h 54 Eurasian Wren Troglodytes troglodytes h h h 55 Common Blackbird Turdus merula 4 3 3 56 Song Thrush Turdus philomelos h h h 57 European Robin Erithacus rubecula 3 3 2 58 House Sparrow Passer domesticus  59 Dunnock Prunella modularis 2 h 60 Pied Wagtail Motacilla alba yarrellii 1 61 Common Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs 3   62 European Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis h   63 Common Linnet Linaria cannabina 3 64 Eurasian Bullfinch Pyrrhula pyrrhula 1 65 Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella 2 66 Common Reed Bunting Emberiza schoeniclus c.10

Reptiles 1 Common Lizard Zootoca vivipara 2 2 Grass Snake Natrix natrix 1

Mammals 1 Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus   2 Fallow Deer Dama dama 2 3 European Hare Lepus europaeus 1

The Charm of the Chiltern Hills Tour Report

May Common name Scientific name 18 19 20

Butterflies 1 Brimstone Gonepteryx rhamni  2 Green-veined White Pieris napi  3 Green Hairstreak Callophrys rubi  4 Holly Blue Celastrina argiolus  5 Small Heath Ceononympha pamphilus 

Dragonflies & Damselflies 1 Hairy Dragonfly Brachytron pratense 1 2 Common Blue Damselfly Enallagma cyathigerum 3

Other Taxa 1 Roman Snail Helix pomatia  

Adder's-tongue Fern by David Fry