The role of the husking tray in the late communities of Northern . A first experimental analysis

SERGIO TARANTO

Autonomous University of Barcelona, Department of Prehistory

Abstract

The subject of this paper is the study of a shape known as the “husking tray”, whose functional interpre- tation is the main topic of my doctoral research. The husking trays are usually very large trays, made of a coarsely straw-tempered clay, characterized by a very wide oval base and low sides; they were used by the communities living in Northern Mesopotamia during the seventh and the first half of the sixth millennium BC. The most interesting feature of this kind of vessel is the presence of incisions and impressions on their interior surface. Several scholars have suggested various hypotheses about how the husking trays could have been used and what specific function they could have had, but these suggestions have remained merely theories so far. In the paper it will show a first experimental analysis which has revealed that the husking trays could have been pans used to bake bread and the incisions/impressions on their inner surface could have been anti-adhesive arrangements.

Keywords

Late Neolithic, Hassuna, Pottery, Experimental Archaeology, Cereals, Oven, Bread

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1. Introduction ment of coils. In general, the surfaces are just rough- ly smoothed and less frequently scraped. According to the archaeological literature, the term On the contrary to their outer surface, that usu- husking trays refers to trays, belonging to the Late ally did not show any kind of decoration or superfi- Neolithic Period (ca 6 900-5 300 cal. ВС), usually cial treatment, the interior surfaces were crossed by very large in size, which present an interior surface incisions, impressions or grooves. These character- crossed by incisions/impressions (fig. 1). ized the husking trays in a wide variety of patterns Shards belonging to this pottery shape were (parallel lines, criss-crossed lines, impressions, etc). found in the archaeological sites since the 1940s in These marks could be carried out with tools or with and particularly in contexts the finger and could also have a different depth in related to the Hassuna pottery horizon. They were the same vessel. found here in so many amounts that the husking These marks entirely covered the inner surface trays were for a long time considered as a fossil key of the husking trays and have always caught the cu- of this Culture.1 riosity of scholars, who suggested throughout time, Then, with the spread of archaeological exca- various hypotheses about their functionality and/or vations, fragments of husking trays were found in meaning. all of the Near East and for periods before and lat- er than which the Hassuna Culture had supposedly developed.2 Despite the wide area interested by their pres- ence, the husking trays represent a homogeneous ce- ramic group for technological characteristics.3 Even though often in a fragmentary state, generally these are large oval trays that could reach up to 60 cm in length and 40 cm in width, on the contrary of the quite low sides (c. 10/15 cm). Both the base and the sides were almost always extremely thick and done in a rough way. The rim most of the times is very irregular so that the height is rather variable within each vascular shape. The husking trays belong always to the most coarsely group of the ceramic assemblages in which they were found.4 The clay appears to be tempered with plant inclusions usually in large amount and of large size. The presence of this kind of temper, that disappear during firing, and made the pottery sur- face very porous. In general, the surfaces of the husking trays are so poorly finished, that fingerprints left during the phase of shaping, are visible as well as the attach-

1 Cruells, Molist, Tunca 2004, p. 2. 2 Le Miere, Nieuwenhuyse1996, p. 146; Tsuneki, Miyake 1998, p. 75; Cruells 2013, p. 96. Figure 1 3 Nieuwenhuyse 2008, p. 116. Husking trays found in Hassuna 4 Nieuwenhuyse 2008, p. 116. (Lloyd, Safar 1945)

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In the present paper the hypotheses suggested Moreover, Voigt noted that on the contrary to until now about the possible function of the husk- the husking tray shards, the domed ovens of Hajji ing trays will be briefly summarized. Firuz Tepe do not belong to earliest levels. This fact The two most commonly agreed of them will be would have provided support to the idea that the critically assessed by a first experimental analysis. In husking trays served as portable ovens before the ap- the conclusion the results will be discussed. pearance of the domed oven. Since then, the majority of scholars have pre- ferred Voigt’s explanation,7 tempting to support 2. Functional Hypotheses this idea with ethnographic comparisons8 of vessels used to bake bread but, it has always just remained Since the excavations of one of the first archaeologi- a theory. cal sites where fragments belonging to the husking On the other hand, other hypotheses related to tray group were found, archaeologists attempted to the proposal of Lloyd and Safar were proposed; the explain the peculiarity of this pottery shape by its husking trays were used for similar activities but to presumed function. manage softer foods9 or to produce wine.10 The first attempt dates back to 1943-44 when Moreover, it was also proposed that the husking Lloyd and Safar5 found fragments of husking trays trays could have been used as “parching trays”11 to at the site of Tell Hassuna. They, «for want of a bet- roast grains. ter explanation of its purpose», supposed that these Finally, a similarity in shape has been noted be- kind of trays were used for separating the grain from tween the husking trays and the vessels currently their husks. The idea was probably that the husking used in to elaborate dairy goods.12 trays could have been used like large graters where spikes would have rubbed against them. For this reason, they referred to this peculiar kind of vessel 3. Experimental Analysis13 as a husking tray which later became their definitive name. To verify if the suggested hypotheses about the In 1983 M. Voigt,6 who found husking tray function of the husking trays were actually feasible, shards at the archaeological site of a first set of experimental tests were carried out.14 in , questioned the previous interpretation of In particular, these experiments focused on Lloyd and Safar. verifying the hypothesis that the husking trays Voigt stated that it is unlikely that the trays were were used to separate the cereal grains from their used for husking, given their size and weight, sug- husk (Lloyd and Safar’s hypothesis) and the idea gesting instead that they could have been portable that they were used in bread baking (Voigt’s hy- ovens used to bake flat bread. This hypothesis was pothesis). proposed on the basis of a comparison with a kind of oven used nowadays in Iran called sangak. The name of these ovens refers to the presence of a bed 7 Balossi, Mori 2014, p. 53. of pebbles at their base; when heated during baking 8 Tekin 2015, p. 25. they serve as a method to avoid the adherence of the 9 Unpublished thesis of Kiliçbeyli 2005 quoted in bread to the base of the oven. Nieuwenhuyse 2008, p. 117. Thus, Voigt suggested that the husking trays, 10 Hypothesis suggested by Bahman Kargar quoted in thanks to their textured, matte inner surface would Ajorloo 2013, p. 39. 11 Clayton 2004. have prevented a thin layer of dough from sticking 12 Cf. Güner 1988; Koşay 1957. during baking. 13 For a brief summary of the experimental analysis see also Taranto 2018. 5 Lloyd, Safar 1945, p. 278. 14 The data presented here are the results of the master 6 Voigt 1983, p. 159. thesis from the author of this paper.

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The first step was to reproduce functional repli- cas of husking trays15 (fig. 2). This work was based on the drawings and the data of the husking tray frag- ments found at in .16 During the shaping phase, a coarse, refractory clay was tem- pered with a large amount of straw fragments. Both the pinching and the coiling techniques were used to shape the trays. According to the data of the husking trays of Tell Sabi Abyad, the surface of the vessels were sim- ply, roughly smoothed17 and their inner surface was scored in different patterns both with the fingers and with tools. After more than a month of drying some of the experimental replicas were fired in an earth-oven and others in a modern kiln.

3.1 Husking Test

The hypothesis that the husking trays were used as large graters for husking the spikes was at first sub- mitted to experimental analysis18 (fig. 3). The experiment has revealed that the husking trays could have hardly been used for that work. In fact, the incisions and impressions were an obsta- cle to that kind of activity because of their size and depth: often whole fragments of spikes filled them without breaking. Moreover, the ceramic surface (characterized by high porosity) is unsuitable to en- dure the mechanical stress caused by the rubbing of hard grains. Finally, the other characteristic of this pottery shape like the remarks relative to the size and the weight suggested by M. Voigt would remain unex- plained.

Figure 2 Experimental functional replicas of the husking trays 15 of Tell Sabi Abyad Cf. Mathieu (ed.) 2002. The major part of the husk- (Nieuwenhuyse 2008) ing tray replicas was carried out during the course of experi- mental archaeology maintained by professor C. Lemorini in the 2015/16 at the Sapienza University of Rome. 16 Nieuwenhuyse 2008; Akkermans et Al. 2014; Le Mière, Nieuwenhuyse 1996. 17 Nieuwenhuyse 2008, p. 116, pp. 330-337. 18 In the experiment hulled barley spikes were used.

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Figure 3 Husking experimental test

3.2 Baking Tests19

To be able to perform the experiments related to the hypothesis that the husking trays were used for bread baking, it was necessary to build the three kinds of fire installations that were supposedly pres- ent in the Late Neolithic contexts. A domed oven, a tannur-like oven20 and a fire- place were replicated on the basis of archaeological remains of fire installations21 (fig. 4). They were shaped by superimposing strata of rough clay mixed with a fair amount of large straw fragments. The dough consisted of stone-ground- ed flour, roughly sieved, of two kinds of cereals: the wheat and the barley.22 Wood-coals were used as fuel. Fourteen tests were executed for this first set of experimental analysis. For every one of them, variables such as the kind of fire installation, cooking

19 Vv.Aa. 2010; Giorilli, Lipetskaia 2017. 20 The presence of this kind of oven during this period is doubtful. In fact the upper part of the oven in the archaeolog- ical examples was not found leaving its missing part uncertain. Figure 4 Balossi, Mori 2014, pp. 48-49. Round oven found in II 21 The replicas were based on examples from Yarim (Merpert, Munchaev 1993, p.77) Tepe: Merpert, Munachaev 1993, p.77, p. 84; Mulder- Heymans 2002. 22 Wheat and barley generally are the most common crops resulting from the paleobotanical analysis in the Near Eastern, Late Neolithic sites such as at Tell Sabi Abyad (Ak- kermans et Al. 2014, p.239).

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Figure 5 Baking experimental test with tannur-like oven

Figure 6 Baking experimental test with the fireplace

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time, baking temperature,23 presence/absence of To facilitate the baking of the dough the idea of sour-dough, consistency of the dough (liquid, semi- using lids was taken into account, however, this idea liquid or solid) were changed. was discarded because they are not present in the ar- chaeological record. On the basis of ethnographical examples25 put- 3.2.1 Experiment with the tannur-like oven ting hot coals also at the top of the husking tray was tested, however, this attempt did not work either. The baking tests performed with the tannur-like The upper part of the dough turned into a hard oven have revealed that this kind of fire installation crust that stuck to the sides and instead the bottom is unsuitable for baking bread with the husking trays part remained totally undercooked. (fig. 5). In fact, an attempt was made to put the vessel filled with the dough at the top of the upper open- 3.2.3 Experiment with the domed oven ing of the tannur-like oven24 but: – if the fire inside the oven was lit, its flames pro- In the first experiments conducted by baking bread duced burn traces on the external surface of the with the husking trays in the domed oven positive tray that are not present on the archaeological results were not obtained. shards of husking trays. Moreover, the resulting Initially many experiments failed due to the bread was burnt at the bottom and completely use of semisolid dough. Once again the upper sur- undercooked at the top. face of the dough in contact with the high tem- perature of the oven, turns into a very hard crust – if the fire inside the oven was extinguished, bak- while the lower part of the dough, when in con- ing was impossible because the remaining heat tact with the ceramic surface, remains quite raw from the preheating stage of the oven, was not and wet (fig. 7). high enough to allow the bread to bake. Subsequent work made it clear that the consis- tency of the dough was a critical variable, and this crucial insight ultimately led to positive results. 3.2.2 Experiment with the fireplace Finally, since this variable of the dough was changed in which more solid forms were used, the Also, the attempts to bake bread with such a large experiments began to work, and baking bread be- pottery shape in a simple fireplace did not work came possible (fig. 8). In fact, using a very solid (fig. 6). In this case the large size of the husking trays dough, prevented the incisions/impressions on the prevented the oxygen from feeding the burning- surface of the vessel from being filled. With this coals under it which resulted in extinguishing them. method the scoring on the pottery’s surface had a Thus, the heat did not arrive from the top because function: it created a bumpy surface that prevented the baking was in the open air, neither from the bot- the dough from adhering well to the vessel therefore tom because once the husking trays were put in, the facilitating the extraction of the bread after baking. coals became extinguished in a short time. As result, In conclusion the experiment worked: the bread remained totally raw. – by simply putting the husking tray filled with a very solid dough in the preheated domed oven 23 The cooking temperatures were recorded with a py- directly on the burning coals; rometer TE/XF0600F3F, AM&C. 24 Today the tannur ovens are used to bake bread by put- – with the preheating technique of the tray. ting the dough discs against the heated inner walls. In the ex- perimental analysis an attempt was made to bake by placing the tray over the upper porthole since it is the only possible way to bake with a husking tray in this kind of oven. However, nowa- 25 There are many ethnographic examples of pots used for days in the Near East sometimes pots are also put at the top of baking by burying them (usually covered with a lid) in hot coals. the tannur to cook. Cf. for instance Djordjevic, Nilolov 2013, p. 54.

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Figure 7 Baking experimental test with domed oven

Figure 8 Baking experimental test in the domed oven and preheating of the tray

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The technique of preheating the vessel was suggest- 4. Concluding Remarks ed by an ethnographic comparison: the Crepulja.26 These are pottery trays more or less of similar size In conclusion this first set of experimental tests al- to the husking trays still in use in the Balkans for low us to consider that Voigt’s hypothesis is actually bread baking. They usually have a hole in the middle feasible with some adjustments: of the tray, or as it appears in some examples, the in- – the husking tray would not be portable ovens, 27 ner surface scored by a few incisions. Usually they but pans used with a domed oven; are heated in a fire or in a domed oven, filled with – the bread would not be so thin because the pres- the dough and covered by a lid at the top, in which ence of incisions on the inner surface of the burning coals are put to allow the dough to contin- husking trays would indicate the height of the ue baking. hypothesized bread (ca 4-5 cm). In the experimental tests, once the domed oven reached a temperature of 400ºC, an empty husking Furthermore, if the husking trays were used in this tray was placed onto the burning coals. Leaving it way many of their characteristics would have had an there for 15 minutes allowed the vessel to reach a explanation. temperature of 180ºC 28 and retain the heat. Succes- The general shape of the husking trays with a sively the husking tray was pulled out and filled with wide base and low sides qualify them as the perfect a very solid dough. This action permitted the sur- pan to cook in a domed oven: their shape in fact al- face of the dough to come in contact with the tray´s lows a large quantity of food to homogenously dis- heated surface immediately turning into a thin crust tribute so that it could arrive to a similar tempera- that prevented the bread from sticking to the ves- ture at the same time (taking modern pans into sel surface. Once filled with the dough, the husking account). tray was left inside the oven to continue baking for The ceramic composition of the husking trays about 2 hours. In this lapse of time, the dough re- (coarse, plant-tempered clay) is suitable for cooking ceived heat from both the oven and from the husk- in an oven because it minimizes the thermal stress.29 ing tray thanks to the heat that it had previously re- Finally, the incisions/impressions present on the tained. inner surface would be explained: they would be an- In fact, inside the dough, due to a series of physi- ti-adhesive arrangements. cal and chemical transformations, the proteins con- This should explain why the incisions/impres- nected with each other to create a network so that sions often looks to be done in a careless way, the the dough could become unified: the loaf of bread. reason they have different depths throughout the The ability to create networks inside the dough de- same vessel and why they were distributed regu- pends mainly on the type and the percentage of glu- larly and repeatedly on the surface of the trays. In ten present in the flour. Every kind of cereal has regards to the interpretation of the pottery shape, a different kind and amount of gluten and conse- this work suggests that the “husking tray concept” quently, this characteristic could reveal what kind could shift towards a more functional sense relat- of cereal could be potentially more suitable to bake ed to an adaptation of the pans for bread baking. with in the husking trays. However, the fact that the incision/impressions could have a functional purpose, it does not ex- clude that the different “decorations” could have also had a meaning. 26 Balossi, Mori 2014, p. 53; see also Djordjevic, Moreover, the cereal is a very good candidate as Nilolov 2013. a main ingredient to be cooked with in the husking 27 http://muzejknjazevac.rs/naselja_en.html trays; in fact, it was one of the staple foods of these 13/04/2018. kinds of communities. 28 This temperature was recorded with a non-contact in- frared thermometer PCE-889B. 29 Eiland 2003, p. 321.

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Finally, it should be remembered that for later broaden the horizons about the understanding of periods of the Near Eastern history there are par- the Late Neolithic communities in the Near East. allels for baking bread in pots; the scenes depicted Nevertheless, the experimental analysis indicate a in the Old Kingdom Tomb of Ty30 and by the possible direction, but should be considered a first so-called “bread moulds” of the Zimri Lim palace step. Only future experimental analysis in conjunc- in Mari31 are evidence of this. tion with the archaeological data could provide In conclusion, this research gives insight to the more precise and solid suggestions of the role played functional interpretation of the husking trays and by this pottery shape.

Acknowledgment

I would like to thank Professor Cristina Lemorini and Professor Francesca Restelli Balossi without whose aid and support of the research could not have begun. In addition, thank you to the welcoming and trustworthy Professors, Miguel Molist Montaña and Anna Gòmez Bach, without whose support for this research could not continue. Final- ly, thank you for the considerate suggestions provided by the reviewers.

30 Chazan, Lehner 1990. 31 Margueron 2004, p. 492.

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