YOUR FREE COPY THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND Issue No 6 – May 22 - June 4 – 2009 www.grapevine.is + COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE!

+ Asylum Seekers: Guilty Until Proven Innocent? Iceland's Transcendental Underground! Get Freaked In Vík!

The Artist Would Like Some Champagne With His Revolution RAGGI GOES VENICE! The End of Ragnar Kjartansson

+ Complete Reykjavík Listings Lots Of Cool Events Opinions! Reviews! And now... even more advertising Ragnar Kjartansson’s exhibition for Venice, entitled The End, will feature a tableau vivant of the artist and his model that will last for the entire six-months of the Biennale, along with a monumental video and music installation. PG. 10. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 6­ — 2009 Lóa is the Grapevine comic artist. As well as doing our comics she runs a prominent downtown hang- 2 out, Karamba.

Editorial Comic strips Haukur’s 6th Editorial! — by Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir

I’m not gonna lie to you, I’m real nerv- got only 32 or 40 pages to work with. Fit- ous when it comes to the Grapevine. I ting in the articles, the interviews, the feel we have a big responsibility to a lot schedules and quotes. So we try and we of folks out there, and I constantly worry scramble to cram it all in. Try is key here, about letting them down. Here are some which is unfortunate, and often leads to groups of people that come to mind: heated phone calls or angry letters from First and foremost, there’s our read- previous friends and well-wishers who ers: we should try and keep them in- all of the sudden want to see our bodies formed of what’s going on (events wise, impaled on sticks, Cannibal Holocaust- in the news, in culture, etc.), amuse them style. while they wait for take-away pizza and Anyway. Isn’t this here valuable space provide them with a mass of high-quality that could be used to cover some theatre paper for arts and crafts projects (speak- group or something? I guess this is my ing of which, didya notice last issue’s de- attempt to explain to friends and family – lightfully decadent 60 gram paper? The and my cats – why I stay up all night four Masthead On Cover printers were saving the thin stuff for the days in a row prior to publication and local newspapers). don’t see them for weeks on end. And — by Hugleikur Dagsson Our writers and photographers: to I’m not the only one; Grapevine is lucky provide them with the space they de- enough to have an army of dedicated and serve, to not mess up their contributions talented folks working at all hours of the and maybe try and lay them out nice, so day to ensure we make it to print on time, people will want to check them out. We that we deliver some interesting content pay as much as we can for articles and and that we’ve got ads to pay our salaries pictures, and it ain’t a whole lot to be hon- and printing costs. Hats off to all you est. So you know that our contributors people. are turning in their pieces out of a sheer Since I’m hatting off, I might hat off and admirable dedication that demands some more. So I’ll off my hat to all of y’all our utmost respect. that write or phone (or pester our staff There’s also events promoters, bands, at bars) with helpful suggestions for im- galleries, artists and pretty much anyone proving our paper. Keep ‘em coming. I who’s offering up some form of enter- would also like to hat Yohanna Guðrún tainment or happening that deserves our for almost winning Eurovision, our new attention. There are a lot of good people MPs for keeping their priorities straight doing a lot of great things in town – in the (ehrm...) and those drunk kids that kept whole of Iceland for that matter – and as yelling outside our office window last we are very interested in promoting and night. supporting our local culture, we aim to publicize and give space to as many of Hats, y’all! them as possible. Which isn’t always easy when you’ve

The Reykjavík Grapevine Contributing Writers: Marketing Director: The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík Sigurður K Kristinsson Jón Trausti Sigurðarson times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from

YOUR FREE COPY THE ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL & ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND www.grapevine.is [email protected] [email protected] November through April, and fortnightly Issue No 6 – May 22 - June 4 – 2009 www.grapevine.is + COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS - INSIDE! [email protected] Florian Zühlke / [email protected] Sales Director: from May til October. Nothing in this + Asylum Seekers: Guilty Until Proven Innocent? Iceland's Transcendental Underground! Get Freaked In Vík! Published by Fröken ehf. Sindri Eldon Aðalsteinn Jörundsson magazine may be reproduced in whole or Lana Vogestad [email protected] in part without the written permission of Editorial: Marc Vincenz Guðmundur Rúnar Svansson the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Irina Domurath [email protected] is distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, The Artist Would Like Some Champagne With His Revolution Advertising: Sari Peltonen Distribution: Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and RAGGI GOES VENICE! The End of Ragnar +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl Samúel Bjarnason at key locations along road #1, and all major Kjartansson Publisher: Richard P. Foley [email protected] tourist attractions and tourist information

+ Complete Reykjavík Listings Lots Of Cool Events Opinions! +354 540 3601 / [email protected] Editorial Interns: Proofreader: centres in the country. Reviews! And now... even more advertising Ragnar Kjartansson’s exhibition for Venice, entitled The End, will feature a tableau vivant of the artist and his model that will last for the entire six-months of the Biennale, along with a monumental video Jonathan Baker Esq Jim Rice and music installation. PG. 10. Publisher: [email protected] You may not like it, but at least it's not Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson Joyce Guzowski Press releases: sponsored. (No articles in the Rey- On Cover: [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] kjavík Grapevine are pay-for articles. Ragnar Kjartansson On-line News Editor Submissions inquiries: The opinions expressed are the writers’ Editor: Paul Nikolov [email protected] Photo by: Haukur S Magnússon [email protected] Subscription inquiries: own, not the advertisers’). Rafael Pinho [email protected] +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Art Director: General inquiries: [email protected] Thanks alot: Journalist: Hörður Kristbjörnsson Börkur Arnarsson Catharine Fulton / [email protected] [email protected] Founders: Photographer: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, Julia Staples / www.juliastaples.com Hörður Kristbjörnsson, Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies. Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Valur Gunnarsson

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Drífa ehf, Suðurhraun 12 C, 210 Garðabær, Sími 555 7400, Fax. 555 7401, [email protected], www.icewear.is Sour grape of the month Sour grapes A case of POLAR BEER for your thoughts. We're not gonna lie to you: we really love us some beers. Some folks would call it a problem, but beer never gave us any problems. In fact, and stuff over the years, it's solved most of 'em. A frosty glass of cold, frothy, bubblicious, golden-tinted beer has consistently failed to let us down. Say your piece, voice your opinion, In the immortal words of Homer J. Simpson: "Mmm... Beer..." send your letters to [email protected] Now, since we're real pleasant and giving folks here at the Grapevine, we thought we'd share some of that wonderful POLAR BEER with you, our readers. From this issue and henceforth in every issue, until the end of days (or our Polar Beer-sponsorship program, whichever comes first), we will reward oneMOST EXCELLENT LETTER with a case of 04 the Polar Beer. You read right. A full case of beer. At your disposal. Letters Give us your worst: [email protected] (light) Dear Sir or Madam: THE MOST EXCELLENT LETTER I am writing to Icelandic Reykjavík Grapevine Newspaper. I discovered your My broken Icelandic dream - A review of two years of unfairness in Iceland fine publication through a article in the When I decided to move to Iceland I imagined a country with a fair society and with- major broadsheet newspapers (enclosed out discrimination. My first job experience was in [redacted]. I didn't want to ask what overleaf thank you encircled in article my salary would be before moving, because I was scared to sound too greedy, [...] I by pen) My reason for writing is this: A) found out that the hostel was supposed to pay 90.000 ISK more than what they had I wonder if you could be so kind to for- paid me. I don't know if it was a mistake, but most of the employees at the hostel are ward a back copy of Reykjavík Grapevine foreigners that are working in Iceland for a couple of months. [...] My trouble with the please. If so I will send you the fee re- police was after a demonstration where I was arrested. [...] So they closed me in a cell quired for one issue. B) I find as a humble for 19 hours. During that time they gave me just an apple for dinner; the next meal I chap British born but having Icelandic got was the next day [...] the police kept my passport and told me that they would send culture to a point, experiencing Iceland- it to the Keflavík airport when I would leave the country. By then I didn't have a ken- ers in everyday life, like a lot of visitors nitala so I was fucked [...]. do not I got a considerable amount of All this taught me that my image of Iceland was crap. What I just learnt is that the respect for Icelanders who became over society is the same everywhere, it's not better in Iceland than in Italy. I still want to live the years became friends as the original here, but I also want to speak up when I get treated unfairly. decendants of the Norse Vikings, but only as (nationalities mean little to me Antonio Rilievo now) as individuals Brits, Irish, Swedes, etc. got on with me) I feel ‘vexed’ by the Dear Antonio, suffering of a small proud land. Due the We’re sorry, but we couldn’t find a way to fit your entire letter anywhere in the paper. world money ‘created’ crisis. For Icelan- It’s real long. Interested readers can find it on our web-site. dic working folks. And authorities in dif- It really sucks that you’ve had to endure injustice over here. Hopefully, you can ferent lands knew the risks putting cash cheer up with some excellent “Awesome letter” beer. Just e-mail us back to get it. £ $ € Islenski banks as with any bank of any country. C) But I know Icelanders with other affluent people from around ‘Monsters and Mythical Beings’ series on have the iron determination never to give the world, evaluate and contribute to an indefinite break, at least for the sum- if (ha!) now and in future times. I also your favorite charities, and gain access mer. We’re trying to cook up something know Icelanders have a sense of humour to exclusive lifestyle guides to luxury liv- awesome to embark upon this fall, until enclosure (writer) ing, travel and the latest trends. Within then you can enjoy some exclusive comic I write as a hobbyist to semi-pro at this elite community you will be provid- strips, courtesy of Hugleikur. best enclose I had some very minor as- ed with access to a dedicated Affluence sociation with The Legend of the Death Concierge, receive priority access to the The Sea Horse Film world's most exclusive premieres, night- Dear Grapevine, I seek no money for it and if used fine clubs, parties, hotels, events and much if not fine more. I have been an avid reader of your paper D) It has been sometime since I had Affluence.org: the exclusive organi- ever since I visited Reykjavík in January communicated with Icelanders since a zation of the world's wealthiest people. and follow you on-line every day. I have couple of Icelandic people where pro- Attend the most exclusive parties and been meaning to drop you a line to thank moted to glory (died) seeking Icelandic events in the world. Receive priority ac- you for doing such a good job keeping the penpal age 21-65 cess to the world's most exclusive night- world updated on what’s going on over Thank for taking time to read my let- clubs, hotels, and restaurants. Find other there. The politics bits are interesting, ter. Bless. millionaires, billionaires, and socially but I also really like reading about the elite people to network with. music and daily life aspects especially Mr Sherman Wilson F-O-R-G-O-T-C-H To accept this friend request, please since I’m planning to move to Reykjavík 13 Cedar Road, Dorchester, Dorset. follow this link: [redacted] as soon as I get the chance. I have a ques- DT1 2PX, England tion though, how much does it subscribe - Best Regards, to the print version from overseas and Dear Mr Sherman, Affluence Administration who do I call to do that? [email protected] And thank you so much for your last Thank you so much for your letter. It issue, I think it’s he best one yet. I espe- uhm... yeah. Getting an actual letter like Dear Administration, cially liked the article on STDs and the that, in the mail and all, that was actu- Haha. Hahahahaha. Hahahahahahaha- one on Dreamland. Do you know when ally kind of cool. Even though I’m not ha. Hah! Haha! Hahaha! it’s showing in the US? sure what you mean by all of it. We’ll at Thank you for your time and your Reykjavík least send you that back issue, no worries. Ps – Bwahahahahahaha! hard work, Your minor association with The Legend Erica, Portland OR of the Death The Sea Horse Film also Welcome Card sounds intriguing. You should write us Nice cover last issue! Articles were fun Dear Erica, more on the subject. Keep those letters too. David Lynch is so cool, and the story Thank you so much for your kind letter. It Enjoy the Thermal Pools, Museums, coming! Takk! of Gryyla was... interesting. I love the Ice- is nice to know you appreciate the paper, landic monster bit and look for it every and the town we take a name from. We’re issue. Can you give me a sneak preview not sure when Dreamland will make it to Public Transport and discounts. Hello Haukur, of what’s to expect? the US, but the directors assured us that You have a new friend request from [re- it would be promoted internationally, so dacted] on Affluence.org. Affluence is an Johann Eskil, Bergen it ought to make its way your way soon. exclusive community of affluent people As for subscription enquiries, you should dedicated to making life better for both Hey Johann, e-mail [email protected]. themselves and others. As a member of Affluence.org you Funny you should ask... actually, Hu- will have the ability to find and interact gleikur and us have decided to put the

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*According to the Dear Visitor study done by Tourism Research and Consulting in the summer of 2008, Iceland Excursions had a significant lead compared to compitetitors in satisfaction and quality. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 6 — 2009 Kolfi nna Baldvinsdóttir has been spending a lot of time at the FIT Hostel lately. Expect more 6 coverage in upcoming issues.

Article | Refugees in Iceland “I undersigned hereby confirm that when Guilty Until Proven Innocent unconscious because

admits that because of a lack of finan- of my hunger strike, I cial means and lack of political policies will deny all medical when it comes to this “primary problem of the 21st century,” the cases can drag assistance.” “Standard on for a longer time, sometimes without ever reaching a conclusion. Even though procedure,” said some of them have been rejected, the authorities are not allowed to send them Guðmundsson. “If back to their home countries, if the situ- ation there is determined insecure by people intend to starve the United Nations or other humanitar- themselves to death, it is ian organisations. better to know it.” Only one got through been “forgotten” for a whole year before Iceland is a signatory to the Dublin Reg- his case was opened. Only Guðmunds- ulation, which was set in 2001 in order son himself knows how many other to “share” the burden of the Mediter- such cases presently lurk within the ranean countries, where most refugees system. Hunger strikes seem to have be- initially arrive. Overloaded with desper- come the only tool these landless people ate people, Greece, Italy and other coun- have. No papers, no identity, no rights. tries in the south of Europe have been “We didn’t come here for the food. We reprimanded for their treatment of asy- have only one thing in common here in lum seekers, where they receive neither this house: to be allowed to live a normal food nor shelter, and can only turn to the life” says Hassan, a 23 year-old from Af- streets. Iceland has been reprimanded ghanistan. as well, but for different reasons. Since “The passport is more important 1990, Icelandic authorities have only than our lives,” he adds. He has been on granted one person refugee status, out the road for six years, seeking for this of 600 who were stranded here. This “ticket to life.” Last month, the Director- ive other refugees have gone on Guðmundsson, said when explaining is the lowest percentage (0.26%) to be ate of Immigration decided to send him, Words hunger strikes since last summer. this unexpected event that shocked the found among our neighbouring coun- along with four others, back to Greece, Kolfinna Baldvinsdóttir FOne of them committed suicide; general public. These words indicate tries. There are exceptions; the number despite reports from the UN, classifying he had been rejected and was about to that the standard “innocent until proven went up 400% last year, when a family of Greece as an unfit receiving country. “I Photography be deported. Another two dozen are still guilty“ only applies to banksters and four from Sri Lanka was granted refugee wouldn’t even send my dog there,” Guð- Julia Staples there, waiting. Some have been waiting “New-Vikings” in Iceland; at least those status. The father of the family had been mundsson said while meeting up with for months, others for many years, get- haven’t had their houses raided, though the driver of an Icelandic commission on the refugees last month. The Ministry ting increasingly desperate. “Do we all “guilty beyond reasonable doubt” in the assignment in Sri Lanka. of Justice overruled this decision at the “It is better that I kill myself than have to go on hunger strike to get the minds of many Icelanders. “The burden Explaining this low number is the last moment. Only 2% of refugees in to be killed when sent back,” says authorities’ attention?” they ask them- of proof is on us, but we are not crimi- obvious fact that Iceland is never the Greece get their cases investigated. They Medhi, a 50 year-old refugee from selves, fear in their eyes. Lately, they’ve nals,” said Katarina, a 30 year-old from first country where the refugees arrive, are usually sent to prison before being Iran. He has now been waiting for been watching yet another of their Russia, shaking with anger when ex- so Icelandic authorities have the “right” deported back home. mates, Mansri Hichem from Algeria, plaining the peculiar day, “we are simply to send them back to the country of answers from Icelandic authorities deteriorating day by day. On the 25th people like you. Why do you keep us here their initial arrival. Iceland can, how- Protests another tool? about whether he will be granted day he gave in, when promised a positive for so long?” ever, grant the refugee a permit to stay the status of a refugee for more outcome in his case that is now finally on humanitarian grounds. Around fifty For some weeks now, the asylum seekers than four years. Giving up on wait- on the table of the Minister of Justice “The primary problem of the people have been that lucky since 1990. at Fit have been pressuring Icelandic au- ing, he went on a hunger strike. It herself. 21st century” But this permit is not handed on a silver thorities to change their harsh policies plate, often many years pass before au- towards refugees – that are among the was not until the 28th day that the FIT HOSTEL – The Guesthouse Provided with food and a 2.500 ISK per thorities simply give up on trying to find most strict in Europe – with various pro- authorities gave in and granted week stipend, the refugees-in-waiting plausible reasons to send the refugee tests. They have been demonstrating in him a six-month work permit. What Hidden away in the lava of the south- are free to move, but as one of them puts back. front of the Parliament, meeting various happens after that, he doesn’t west corner of Iceland, close to where it: “This is worse than prison. When in politicians, who have all sympathised know, but he is happy: finally the NATO base used to be (until 2006), prison, you at least know when they’ll Hunger strikes the only tool? with their cause and promised a just and the refugees are housed in the Fit Hos- let you out.” Most of them have been fair procedure. They even met with the providing for himself and the family tel. “An attractive hostel with various stranded on the shores of Iceland while “I can’t take this anymore, I have been Minister of Justice in person, who greet- he left behind. “It can drive you facilities. The hostel/guesthouse is situ- on their way to the Promised Land in waiting for two years and they don’t give ed them warmly at her home. “I’m not crazy waiting like this, year after ated in Njarðvík and offers good and af- the west. Caught with forged passports, me any information,” said the afore- in the habit of giving any promises,” she year – sleeping, eating, sleeping – fordable accommodation for everyone,” they are taken to Fit hostel where they mentioned Hichem on the 22nd day of said, but still promised to apply a fair and not knowing what they’re going to it says in the ad – along with refugees are kept while their cases are being in- his hunger strike. Upon learning of his just procedure to their cases. How a new from places such as Afghanistan, Iraq, vestigated. If the refugee has applied for hunger strike through the media, the au- government will greet them remains to do with you.” Iran, Mauritania, Sudan, Algeria, Russia asylum in another country of the Schen- thorities presented him with a statement be seen. What will be the fate of these etc. Backpackers from Europe who share gen area prior to landing in Iceland, he to sign, saying: “I undersigned hereby individuals who reside at Fit hostel? Will toilets with the refugees often surprised or she will be sent back to that country confirm that when unconscious because they all go on a hunger strike, like they when confronting them in the hallway. within three months, or so says the rule. of my hunger strike, I will deny all medi- recently threatened to do, to receive their They were even more surprised when, If the individual has not, an investiga- cal assistance.” “Standard procedure,” fair and just treatment? Will Iceland 1. 19 Year-old Baghdad native on September 11 of 2008, a special force tion will start. said Guðmundsson. “If people intend stand up to its image and treat these peo- Nour Al-din is one of the of 60 police officers rushed into Fit hos- It should not take the authorities to starve themselves to death, it is better ple with the “basic rights and freedoms refugees currently waiting for tel, breaking open all of its doors in the longer than six months to determine to know it.” Amnesty International does to which all humans are entitled?” resolution at the FIT hostel. early morning, “searching for criminal whether the home country of the refu- not agree: “Not even in Guantanamo do Or will they be treated as “guilty until Nour is a veritable rapper, activities,” as they later stated. gee is “secure” for him or her, according they leave them to die, quite the contrary, proven innocent?” and occasionally performs in “We could all expect raids on our to regulations, but, as Guðmundsson ex- they feed them with force.” Reykjavík. Go see him if you houses at any time,” the director of the plains, only two full time employees are Guðmundsson admitted in an inter- have the chance. Directorate of Immigration, Haukur tasked with processing these cases. He view that the case of the Algerian had we‘ll TAKe you There! Day tours to all the most exCitiNG plaCes iN iCelaND

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re-04 - 09:00 re-80 - 09:00 All year re-05 - 11:00 until 31 May /13:00 from 1 June The Golden Circle Glacier Adventure relax at the Blue lagoon reykjavík Grand excursion 09-17 All year 09-19 All year For our very flexible schedule please refer All year 11-13:30 to our brochure. SUN MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT SUN MON WED FRI SAT SUN MON TUE WED THU FRI SAT there is no better way to start or end your Don’t miss out on the fascinating experi- Get to know the capital with an expert by take a ride to the top of the world on a iceland adventure than by bathing in the ence the icelandic Golden Circle gives your side. We take you around reykjavík snowmobile and see the amazing sólheima- famous Blue lagoon. you can either board you. on this tour we take you to the with a guide and show you the highlights jökull from above the larger mýrdalsjökull the bus at BsÍ Bus terminal in reykjavík or geysers, the famous Gullfoss waterfall of the city. the tour ends at the National glacier and be pleasantly surprised by the at Keflavík airport. along with a visit to Þingvellir national magnificent views. museum of iceland where you can see park. this tour is a must to make your this tour is not recommended for children return icelandic culture at its best. visit to iceland complete. bus fare 2800 ISK Price 21500 ISK return bus Book now on www.re.is Book now on www.re.is fare and Book now on www.re.is Book now on www.re.is Price 9800 ISK Price 26700 ISK admission 5400 ISK Price 4900 ISK

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Want to see and feel something completely if you want to spend your afternoon in this tour is perfect for all saga enthusiasts. iceland´s south coast is ideal for nature different? Why not take a walk on a glacier the countryside join this tour with us on this tour we take you around the area lovers of all kind. striking waterfalls, and experience a surface that you have and we will show you two of iceland’s where one of the icelandic sagas took stunning views of glaciers, black lava never been able to walk on before! take a most famous attractions – the queen of place - along with enjoying spectacular sand coastline, charming villages and tour with us and try something new - iceland´s waterfalls, Gullfoss and the landscape. Come and follow in the impressive rock formations. a once in a lifetime experience for most. world famous hot spring Geysir. footsteps of the Vikings with us. Don´t miss out on this one. Price 14000 ISK Book now on www.re.is Book now on www.re.is Book now on www.re.is Book now on www.re.is

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BSÍ Bus Terminal / 101 Reykjavík 580 5400 / [email protected] / www.re.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 6 — 2009 Marc Vincenz is doing a returning column on Transcendental Iceland. Transcendental? Next month: He interviews a deep-trance medium and come in contact with a 8 What the hell is that? collective unconscious life-form. Seriously! Transcendental Iceland | Part 1: Goosebumps Elves vs. Radio to the other side. Huldufólk According to what I have been told, elves are not the only folk going about In Search of the Real McCoy their magical ways in the highlands and along the fjörds; there are also the enigmatic yet spiritual huldufólk (hidden people), another unseen race altogether. Magnús Skarphéðinsson of the Icelandic Elf School says, ‘Huldufólk are just the same size and look exactly like human beings; elves, on the other hand, aren’t entirely human, they’re humanoid, starting at around eight centimetres. There are thirteen types of elf, but only one huldufólk.’ Are elves and huldufólk really different? Or are they just different ways Words about talking about the same beings? You see, the opinions are not entirely Marc Vincenz unanimous. Even here at the Grapevine, we are not all in agreement. Ask a handful of Icelanders and you will always get one who says that elves and huldufólk are the same—yes, you know who you are. But, of course, Ever wondered what upside down absolutely every opinion counts. coffee cups are doing cooking on the radiator? If you’re Icelandic, So, in this light, we put it to you, the Icelandic readers of the Grapevine: you probably already know. If not, Are elves and huldufólk the same thing, or not? I say tomahto and you say tomayto. remember stories of gypsies read- ing tealeaves? Since most of us During the entire month of May, please feel free to email your answer to don’t use tealeaves anymore, we [email protected]. We promise, we will not let anyone reach for the next best thing—the know your answer should you wish to remain in dregs of filter coffee. Icelandic obscurity. If, however, you are destined for elf stardom, feel free to rant and rave about anything related to the housewives will tell you it’s just a subject that might catch our attention. If it’s interesting bit of malarkey. But believe me, enough, we might even come over and interview you. there’s real methodology to it—ap- The results will be posted during June. Let’s get parently each dribble is just like business and is re- to the very bottom of this. a reading line on a palm. Once, rom the day I first set foot on this spected among the Oh, and another thing: if you are interested in further curious perspectives on elves, huldufólk and not so long ago, there was no TV island, near fifteen years ago, community. Every- before the Viking raider-traders thing in its place a few other unseen beings (fairies for one), there is and no Internet; it comforted you F another article which may secretly tickle your fancy on hit Kensington High Street and every- and order: serious through the long winter, and fore- one in the world thought Iceland was family life, kids, a our website: www.grapevine.is. told the early arrival of a brighter, home to Santa (it was either here or the golden retriever, warmer spring. North Pole), Icelanders were contacting the whole shebang. tights and tutus. Maybe there really is something the departed, fingers poised on planch- ‘Who lives in that They don’t look more to this? In the beginning you’d ettes, crackling across home-made rock?’ anything like never believe you could acquire a taste Ouija boards, seeking meaning in their ‘Well I don’t that.’ for hákarl (rotten shark) and Brennivín. dreams. It appears much of this still know precisely,’ And thus began Then I start thinking about some of the holds true. If you doubt this, go to the he says, strolling my initiation into strange stuff that the Brits, the Ameri- nearest Mál og Menning and see how towards another something in- cans, the Chinese and the Koreans be- many dream dictionaries you can find craggy formation— credible and Ice- lieve in. Chinese and Koreans worship on the shelves. this one has water trickling down it, bits landic, something ethereal, something their ancestors (they burn fake money It all started on my first visit to of scraggily moss, and just beyond a rift ancient, something which I have now printed up in the billions specifically for Þingvellir (it was an invitation to ‘do’ the where people have tossed coins, just like found to exude through the very pores their spirits. Imagine that: an entire mi- Golden Circle); carelessly looking in the a wishing well: the Peningagjá. ‘Let’s not of this wild, rocky dreamland in the cro-economy based on printing money opposite direction, I bumped into a rock. talk about it anymore. We don’t want to middle of the roaring Atlantic, where to burn—ring any bells?). ‘Ooof! Be careful! Better make sure irritate them. You did enough damage as the settlers ran into elves, huldufólk, Brits and Americans keep up with you didn’t nudge it out of place,’ says my it is; come over here, have a look at the dragons, gods, fairies, trolls, ghosts, and their horoscopes on a weekly basis, a tes- friend’s father, Siggi. view.’ He stands overlooking the bluff, conversed regularly with their ancestors. tament to the success of The Daily Sun I wonder what the hell he is on about. you can almost see the Mid-Atlantic Out there in the big wide world of the In- and The National Enquirer. For Pete’s The Þingvellir wind rattles around my Ridge rising; he breathes in the wind ternet, cable TV, Hollywood, Gucci, and sake, the Americans believe in Oprah ears. smiling, cheeks flushed bright pink. Dolce and Gabbana, elves are things that Winfrey. The Brits have Monty Python, ‘Can you explain to me exactly what that are found in children’s cartoons, ghosts Little Britain—I mean what could be comment was back there?’ The rock Hours later, after much silence in the are for Uri Geller and spirits for Deepak stranger than that? Glastonbury near seems to sit a little askew. I lie and tell car, photos of Geysir, the Golden Water- Chopra. Stonehenge sees more crop circles per him everything is just as it should be— fal—all impressive no doubt—we still acre than anywhere else in the world. no need to rock the boat. haven’t settled the issue about the people Somewhere in Nevada, they are still After all, it’s only a rock, isn’t it? in the rock. We stop off at a gas station to “In one session, Indriði waiting for their first encounter of the ‘Sure it’s really back?’ he asks, twitching. pick up a hotdog. ‘I think you were just third kind, and all along Highway 61 ‘Car’s been on the fritz lately. Wouldn’t hungry,’ he says. levitated all the way they sell truckloads of crystal pyramids want our friends to give us any extra… ‘Sorry, Siggi. Now we are nowhere and dreamcatchers made in sweatshops you know?’ He moves on, looks up at near there. Can you please tell me about up to the ceiling like a in southern China. some impressive volcanic outcrop. those guys in the rock?’ helium filled balloon, In the big scheme of things, com- ‘Sorry, can we stop here for a second? ‘Huldufólk. Hidden people,’ he says, municating with ghosts and respecting Exactly who might give us more trou- almost whispering. despite the doctor trying elves doesn’t really seem so ludicrous. ble?’ ‘Sure, they must be hidden to live in a In the end, it has everything to do with ‘Well the people that live in that rock rock,’ I chuckle. his damndest to hold where your traditions begin. So, leav- you bashed against, of course.’ He says He looks at me totally seriously: ‘You ing Siggi and his wife talking to their 1. Woman with a ghost of dead this totally seriously, almost as if his life never heard of hidden people? Some- him down. In another long-departed great grandfather on a husband depends upon it. thing like elves, you know?’ Ouija board, I head out to see what other 2. Couple with female ghost I shake my head. What is he telling ‘You mean Santa’s Helpers?’ session, he literally strange and unexpected things I might 3. Woman, two boys and female me? Has he gone completely barmy? ‘Not quite. Hollywood has dressed vanished into thin air...” find. Sometimes you just have to know ghost This is a normal guy who has his own them up in stupid hats and given them what you’re looking for. Cont. on pg. 28

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já - er svarið 118 ja.is Símaskráin LIVING ROOM CONCERTS AT REYKJAVÍK ARTS FESTIVAL 25 Living Room Concerts in 25 homes during the festival weekend of 22-24 May. Outstanding musicians make music in unusually intimate surroundings. The concerts are held all over Reykjavík, spanning every zip code from 101 to 111. amiina Bloodgroup Jón Ólafsson Melakvartettinn

Ólöf Arnalds Retro Stefson, FM Belfast and MC Plútó Reykjavík! Vicky Weirdcore

Tickets online at www.artfest.is and www.midi.is. Tel: 552 8588 www.artfest.is

Fire is needed by the newcomer Whose knees are frozen numb; Meat and clean linen a man needs Who has fared across the fells.*

The Icelandic Sheep, Keeping the people alive since 874 AD.

*From the Hávamál, 1300 AD ÁJS

I c e l a n d i c Sheep Farmers [email protected] / photo: The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 6­ — 2009 10 THE AWESOME ABSURDITY OF SO, WE GOT THIS PRESS RELEASE THE OTHER DAY. BEING REAL OFFICIAL LOOKING. —by HAUKUR S MAGNÚSSON

A CONVERSATION WITH RAGNAR KJARTANSSON

Courtesy of the artist, Luhring Augustine, New York and i8 Gallery, Reykjavik SO, WE GOT THIS PRESS RELEASE THE OTHER DAY. REAL OFFICIAL LOOKING. “Reykjavík, Iceland, March 13, 2009: The official Icelandic representation at the 53rd International Art Exhibition – La Biennale di Venezia will feature RAGNAR KJARTANSSON, a self- described incurable romantic, whose multifaceted artistic practice is rooted in a tradition of acting and performance with an existential and absurdist sensibility that can be linked to artists ranging from Caspar David Friedrich to Gilbert and George. Kjartansson’s exhibition for Venice, entitled The End, will feature a tableau vivant of the artist and his model that will last for the entire six-months of the Biennale, along with a monumental video and music installation. It will be presented in the Palazzo Michiel dal Brusà, a 14th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal near the Rialto, which has served as the Icelandic Pavilion since 2007.” YOU WHAT NOW? RAGNAR KJARTANSSON? THAT SINGER FROM TRABANT? HIM WHO SANG NASTY BOY? YOU MEAN THE ONE WHO’S ALWAYS HALF NAKED, FLAPPING HIS MAN-TITS ALL OVER THE PLACE, GNAWING ON A BURNING ROMAN CANDLE? THE SELF-DEPRECATING, OVERTLY SEXUAL, UN-SEXY (UNLESS YOU’RE REAL DRUNK) POP STAR? WE HAD NO IDEA HE WAS LINKED TO ARTISTS RANGING FROM CASPAR DAVID FRIEDRICH TO GILBERG AND GEORGE. OR THAT HE HAD AN EXISTENTIAL AND ABSURDIST SENSIBILITY.

“Ragnar Kjartansson (b. 1976, Reykjavík, Iceland) conjures up emotions in his ARE YOU SURE THAT’S HIM? work that he can pass on to his viewers, with a keen eye for the tragicomic spectacle of human experience where sorrow collides with happiness, horror with beauty, and drama with humor. In his versatile artistic career, he has focused on video, painting, and drawing, with performance at the heart of his practice. Both of Kjartansson’s parents are actors, and acting, repetition, and identity are ever-recurring themes in his work. He has taken on countless roles in his performances, combining his own personality with personas from cultural history. His work incorporates a mélange of show business icons and nostalgic imagery from bygone eras of theater, television, music, and art, allowing him to blur the border between life and art, reality and fiction, and to create bold statements that strike chords with his audiences. In addition to his work in Yeah. It sure sounds like the guy. Performing the visual arts, Kjartansson has had a career in music, releasing several albums with his bands and throughout the world, releasing several albums with his bands, striking a chord with his audiences. performing throughout the world.” That’s our man right there: Ragnar Kjartansson, sometimes known as Rassi Prump [“Assy Fartson”]. Great guy. We’ve been following his performances about town a lot, but they must have been too fun Sveinsson and Kjarval went, we’ve sent people there And sincerity and irony are such connected con- incredibly unselfish volunteer work for a long time for us to figure out they were supposed to blur the regularly since 1982. In 2007, some 150 countries cepts. People might harbour some sort of notion that – procuring grants for a lot of artists, so they could line between life and art.... And what’s that whole had representatives. It’s quite an event. irony isn’t sincere – that’s a big misunderstanding. pursue their work. Maintaining an arts scene in this “mélange of show business icons” bit about? What’s All the romantics were really ironic. If you take this... country is a lot of work; running a gallery, running a mélange anyway? So it’s sorta like the Eurovision Song Contest of this abyss that surrounds us, if you take it too seri- around trying to score funding or grants. There’s So we googled mélange (“a mixture, a medley”). contemporary art? ously, then you won’t survive. All human interaction nothing wrong with that. There can’t be. And we called up Ragnar to ask what all this mé- Well you know, this is a bit more respectable. is about joking playfulness and ... it’s so based on A certain discourse became prevalent. Suddenly lange, existentialist, Caspar David Friedrich, La Bi- And it’s not a contest. It forms a common ground irony. If I am indeed making ironic statements, then you were some sort of culprit for not having focused ennale di Venezia bit is all about. for what’s notable in modern art at each time, so to I am making them in full sincerity. on society and its problems directly. I never thought Little did we know... speak. Even though it can be hard to tell what that I think it was the French 18th century philoso- about that. I like thinking about poetry and the hu- is, exactly. You can’t really liken it to anything. It’s a pher Montesquieu that said that seriousness was the man condition, but the social realistic condition...? I So you’re an artist, eh? special event. And of course it’s an honour to get to shield of stupidity. That’s kind of good. When they did a lot of navel-gazing, to try and figure if I had Well, yeah. I like to think of myself as such. And go there. A great one. say joy is stupid, well, that’s just not true. Making done anything wrong or somehow gone off track. it’s my job, so yeah. I’m an artist. light of things is the smartest thing you can do in And I reached the conclusion that I did not. And What have you got planned? this horrible world. To put it dramatically. furthermore that as soon as someone starts talking How’d that happen? I’ll be showing a video piece that I made in the about “the role of the artist” and “the artists’ duties I’ve always been involved with the arts in some Canadian Rockies with Davíð Þór Jónsson [versatile, Speaking of Drama, lot of critical discussion and responsibilities,” they’re talking like Adolf fuck- form. You could say I started out on the stage; as a masterful musician, plays with Flís, Mugison, pretty arose in the wake of our ever-looming economic ing Hitler. child, I acted in some 200 showings of Lands míns much everyone]. It’s a country music opus consisting collapse, and the local artworld was not exempt. A really fun thing happened, I was protesting at föður [a popular local play – as noted in the above bio, of five videos that all play at the same time and sync. Accusations were flung at the artistic full force in the kitchenware revolution. I was leaving Ragnar is the son of respected actor/director Kjartan That’ll be in one room. This place, the Rockies, it’s community; that it had been complacent to the for home after the protest one night, and got hailed Ragnarsson]. When I was a teenager, I participated the end of the world, the western part of it at least, an banksters, jumping on to their bandwagon and into [restaurant] Við Tjörnina, where the baroness [a a lot in the theatre, and started an “art collective” of incredible place. It was spectacular to be there, and to leaving necessary commentary aside, neglecting famed patron of Icelandic artists, including Ragnar] sorts – Mambo Publishing House – with my friends record in the stinging frost. hard questions... was hosting an midnight champagne party. “Come from Hagaskóli [a West Reykjavík junior high]. The And then there’s a piece I collaborate on with Páll I’ve thought a lot about it, and I think it’s a really on in darling,” she said, and I thought it’d be bril- collective, we hung out in my garage and played Haukur Björnsson, a six month long performance amusing and funny claim that artists are supposed liant, drinking champagne in the midst of a revo- “artist” to an extreme. We made paintings while that consists of me painting paintings of him stand- to be some sort of moral harbingers or apostles. The lution. Epic. Then I was on the balcony, having my Úlfur Eldjárn [of Apparat Organ Quartet] played the ing around in a custom-made bathing suit, drinking artist can never represent a pure cause, no true art- drink, when the teargas bombs went off. That was saxophone. We wrote plays for our school festivals, a beer and smoking a cigarette. It’s a plateaux that ist can represent neo-liberalism or communism, for real decadent [sinister laugh]. The, a day over, there formed bands, fucked around. The artform didn’t the guests will walk in on, I’ll keep making paint- instance. It’s great if artists can feel like they’re rep- was a “revealing article” in Fréttablaðið [free newspa- matter: we were a teenage cross-disciplinary arts ings – one each day for six months. I’ll be doing this resenting something other than themselves, so they per] about the artists that had dared to partake in the collective. And that mode of thinking’s sort of stuck throughout the year, every day. It’s a terrific situa- can fight the system or something. But I have always champagne, I thought that was really funny. People with me – that it doesn’t matter what you’re doing, as tion; a grudging Groundhog Day for half a year. Him perceived my own role as an audience to life, an ob- getting all self-righteous and angry about a bunch of long as you’re doing something, creating something. smoking and drinking, me painting, five hours a servant to it. I think the best works are always almost poor artists accepting a drink from a middle-aged I ultimately decided to pursue the visual arts. I’ve day. The piece will grow each day and build up emo- inadvertently political, they become more interesting woman. This exemplifies the beautiful absurdity of always thought it was the coolest form of art. You’re tional charge as the paintings, beer bottles and ciga- that way. It’s politics of the subconscious. it all. your own boss, you get to do what you like. It’s also rettes pile up. It’ll grow more and more unsavoury, I That way, I’ve made a bunch of work that is some- the most “anything goes” artform; in music, you’ve imagine it’ll be quite an installation by the end. how revealing, and have later turned out to be politi- Now, you’re representing Iceland at the got to make a certain amount of sense, also in the cal commentary. These are pieces that age well, be- contemporary art Eurovision. Is there an theatre. You release an album and you sort of have And what’s it about? cause everything went to hell, so to speak. But never Icelandic angle to visual arts? As a musician to succeed to an extent. Whereas in visual arts you It’s about a lot of things. About the painting, with an intent. My place is within the whirlpool, re- that’s performed abroad, you’ve surely can get away with making stuff that really sucks and about the music, friendship. It’s about the moment, acting to it, reflecting upon it. Not judging it from experienced the Björk and Sigur Rós, elves and just tagging it with some sort of concept. It’s like a it’s about time, man, it’s just like Tíminn og vatnið above. waterfalls comparisons. Are there similar shield – you’re protected within the field. When I was [“Time and water,” legendary Icelandic modernist paradigms in your current field? doing music, I was a lot more insecure. Because it’s poem by Steinn Steinarr]. In fact, it’s about the water So you think the criticism was unwarranted? As for an Icelandic angle, my view of that is ad- so much more... direct. You either feel it or you don’t. too. It’s called The End. It marks the end of some- You know, I think it’s all good and well that art- opted from my mentor, Birgir Andrésson. He always There are a lot of grey areas in the visual arts. But it’s thing. ists get criticized, but I also think it’s really important spoke of Iceland as an island of stories. If something’s all jazz, man that artists not turn into social realistic preachers. Icelandic, the story conveyed is maybe more impor- A lot of what you’ve done seems to be about as This is especially in wake of all the post-collapse ar- tant than the object itself. Because we have nothing. So how come you’re representing Iceland at this suming a character, whether it be with the rock guing, it was like a kind of “Danish resistance” that Just a couple of hills, maybe, but it’s the story of those there Biennale thing?? bands or in your visual and performance art suddenly came to being. hill that makes all the difference. Telling a story, over Some experts decided. Haha. I’ve slept with so endeavours. And a lot of what you’ve stood for I don’t know if it’s a myth - it might just be clas- nature. If there’s an Icelandic angle, I think that’s it. many people that they just had to let me. Hah. No, occupies the realm of the ironic. Are you ever sic Icelandic Dane-prejudice – but the story goes that As for a Björk-like paradigm, we’re blessedly free not really, just... some committee decided to invite honest or sincere? Are you... are you making fun during the German occupation in World War II, the of such expectations, although Ólafur Elíasson is me, and I serenely accepted. of life itself? Danish resistance wasn’t very active – until the Ger- maybe starting to verge on that, as he gets bigger. I We all live in some direction. When people make mans started losing the war. Then they got real busy. did a show in New York last year along with some fel- And what exactly is the Biennale? the decision to become artists, then they’re being ac- After the occupation ended, that’s when the resis- low Icelanders, and one of the critics wrote that Ice- It’s a major contemporary art exhibit that’s held tive agents in their own existence, making their life tance gained momentum. Anyway, in the aftermath landers didn’t really have anything to talk about, that bi-annually. The world’s nations send their repre- into some sort of art – amplifying their existence. It’s of crisis, a lot of people that had been basically inac- Icelandic art was best when it focused on nature, like sentatives to display. It started in 1895 and was ini- so incredible, imagine, it’s the most egocentric, so- tive started being awfully pleased with themselves. “I he perceived Ólafur to do, because Icelanders “only tially just for the European superpowers, but us old lipsistic decision you can make, saying you’re an art- didn’t do anything.” People that had remained silent ever have nature to talk about.” Nothing else. And colonies have been slowly getting on the bill little by ist. “What I have to say matters.” Amplifying oneself, and immobile were all of the sudden righteously rag- then the blessed collapse came. Now we have plenty little. Iceland first joined in 1960, when Ásmundur exaggerating. ing at folks like Kling & Bang - that have been doing to discuss. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 6­ — 2009 12 MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE

Living Room Concerts Prescribing with love 12:00 String quartet The Mela Quar- music for your live ter. Þórsgata 18, 101 Reykjavík. 13:00 Dvorák´s Group. 22 experience Hávallagata 18, 107 Reykjavík. May 14:00 And yet, spring returns. Ice- How to use the listings landic music and poetry. Venues are listed alphabetically by Urðarstekkur 3, 109 Reykjavík. day. 15:00 Felix Bergsson sings children´s For complete listings and detailed songs and tells stories. information on venues visit Starhagi 5, 107 Reykjavík. www.grapevine.is 16:00 Cabaret and operetta songs. Grettisgata 29, 101Reykjavík. Promoe 17:00 Baroque in Thingholt. Bragata 27, 107 Reykjavík. 22 18:00 Where is the moon? Poetry NASA FRI and jazz. Vesturberg 137, 111 Reykjavík. 19:00 Deep Pit- Tómas R. Þorvaldsenstræti 2 12am B5 Reynimelur 24 107 Reykjavík. 23:00 DJ Simon Gorilla Funk. 20:00 Violinists Duo Landon. Lauga- Swedish Hip-Hop emcee Promoe Celtic Cross nestangi 70, 105 Reykjavík. will be getting you B-Boys and 01:00 Live Music. Prikið B-Girls crunk TONIGHT at the ever- Dubliner 22:00 Hangover Cinema - Wild Style popular NASA, as part of his 2009 22:30 Live Music. will be showing. Free Popcorn! European tour. The dread-head, English Pub Q-Bar who is a formidable member of 22:00 Live Music. 23:00 Open decks. Hressó underground hip-hop super crew Rósenberg Looptroop Rockers, is on a mission 22:00 Band Dalton in concert followed 21:00 Árstíðir by DJ Maggi . of his own promoting new album Living Room Concerts Kråksången. Anticipate contentious 16:00 Residential Music Industry. 25 lyrics, limited edition Nike Dunks Heiðargerði 1B, 108 Reykjavík. MON and the smell of green in the air. 17:00 Singer Ólöf Arnalds. In- Blast on over to NASA, enjoy the gólfsstræti, 101 Reykjavík. Dubliner smoke and get spaced. —JB 18:00 Rock band Vicky. Holtsgata 3a. 22:30 Live Music. 101 Reykjavík. Rósenberg 19:00 Electro-pop Bloodgroup. Hól- 21:00 Olema and band. maslóð 2, 101 Reykjavík. 20:00 Techno-pop group FM Belfast, Retro Stefson and 26 30 rapper MC Pluto. Ingólfsstræti TUE May 21a, 101 Reykjavík. 21:00 Electronic group Weirdcore. Dubliner Hólmaslóð 2, 101 Reykjavík. 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 Rock band Reykjavík!. Prikið Smiðjustígur 4a, 101 Reykjavík. 22:00 . Introbeats and RVK beat London/Reykjavik drop. 00:00 Hannes Smith Rósenberg Reyk Veek NASA 21:00 Svavar Knútur. 24:00 Kronik followed by Promoe Collective from Looptroop. Prikið 27 WED NASA 22:00 Kokteilbandið followed by DJ Gísli Galdur. Dubliner Þorvaldsenstræti 2 11pm Q-Bar 22:30 Live Music. 23:00 New Years Theme Party with DJ Grand Rokk Dance collective Reyk Veek intend Sexual Chocolate. 18:00 The Champions League Final live. to ‘Save your life’ on the night Sódóma Reykjavík Kaffi Zimsen of May 30th at NASA. DJs and 22:00 Band Tenderfoot. 20:00 Friday Night Idols producers Karíus + Baktus (named Prikið after two evil toothfaires), youngster 20:00 DJ Moonshine. Orang Volante, ASLI, Oculus and 23 Q-Bar finally Siggi Kalli from the Westman SAT 23:00 Pub quiz. Rósenberg Islands will be spinning an eclectic B5 21:00 B Sig. mix of House, Minimal Techno, 23:00 DJ Funky Fleivur. Sódóma Reykjavík Disco and Dub into the early hours. Celtic Cross 18:00 Foreign Monkeys release Make sure you drown yourself 01:00 Live Music. concert. All ages until 22:00. in Vodka and energy drinks (not Dubliner New album for 1.500 ISK. Entrance: 22:30 Live Music. literally) to keep yourself awake 500 ISK. English Pub boogying. It’s only 500ISK on the The Icelandic Opera 22:00 Live Music. door too! —JB 21:00 Hjaltalín/Daniel Bjarnason. Hressó Entrance: 2.500 ISK. 22:00 Tepokinn in concert followed by DJ Maggi. Kaffibarinn 23:45 Maggi Lego. 28 Kaffi Hljómalind THU 19:00 The DeathMetal SuperSquad. B5 Living Room Concerts 21:00 Resident DJs. 13:00 Four Centuries and Three Cultura Continents. Túngata 44, 101 Reykja- 21:00 Andleg Skelfing. vík. Folk/classic music. Dubliner 14:00 Singer Benóný Ægisson. 22:30 Live Music. Skólavörðustígur 4, 101 Reykjavík. English Pub 15:00 Gershwin in the Marsh. Kjar- 22:00 Live Music. tansgata, 105 Reykjavík. Græni Hatturinn 16:00 Icelandic folk music and hymns. 21:00 Hjálmar and Retro Stefson. Dómkirkjan Church,101 Reykjavík. Entrance: 2.500 ISK. Grapevine Top 6 Most 17:00 Ásgerður Júníusdóttir-THE Hressó MEDIUM. Solo opera performance. 22:00 Acoustic Jógvan and Vignir. Played during the Melgagi 2, 101 Reykjavík. Prikið making of this issue 18:00 Salon music from Melchior. 17:00 Standup. Bugðulækur 17, 105 Reykjavík. Rósenberg 1 19:00 Singer Jón Ólafsson. Hagam- 21:00 Tríó Björhs Thor. Grizzly Bear elur 33, 107 Reykjavík. Sódóma Reykjavík Two weeks 20:00 Instrumental music from Ren- 22:00 Kimi Records Night. dezvous. Vesturbrún 4, 104 Reykjavík.

21:00 Chamber music by amiina. 2 Seawolf Grundarstígur 10, 101 Reykjavík. Leaves in the River London/Reykjavik 29 FRI 00:00 DJ Áki Pain. 3 Prins Póló NASA B5 Ástin Ein 21:00 Lhasa de Sala. Entrance: 3.500 23:00 DJ Funky Fleivur. ISK Café Paris 4 Prikið 22:00 Cocktail Night. Sonic Youth 21:00 Happy Hour! DJ Danni Deluxe. Celtic Cross Anti Orgasm Q-Bar 01:00 Live Music. 23:00 Anna Brá. Dubliner 5 Bat For Lashes 22:30 Live Music. English Pub Daniel 24 22:00 Live music. SUN Grand Rokk 6 Slayer 22:00 Gogo Yoko presents the Criminally Insane Dubliner Grapevine Grand Rokk Concert, fea- 22:30 Live Music. turing Kimono, Rökkúrro and Me, the The Adventures of Taxi Driver | "Travis Bickle" Slumbering Napoleon. Græni Hatturinn 21:00 The Akureyri Big Band and AIM music challenge winner. The Continuing Adventures of Entrance: 2.500 ISK. Hressó “Taxi Driver” 21:00 Jógvan and Vignir followed by DJ Bjarni. Kaffi Hljómalind 20:00 Ramming Speed. London/Reykjavík 00:00 DJ Kristján. Opera House 21:00 Tiger Lillies cabaret perfor- mance. Entrance: 3.500 ISK. Prikið 21:00 Taggpartý. Rósenberg 21:00 B. Sig. Sódóma Reykjavík 22:00 Changer, Beneath, and Gone Postal.

30 SAT Grapevine’s Cabbie Pal Explores the

B5 Hidden Side of Reykjavík 23:00 Resident DJs. Celtic Cross 23:43 perv thing to do would be to accept. May- 01:00 Live Music. A hysterical shriek of abject terror pierc- be when I´m older and more sexually Dubliner es the still moonlit night. A girl comes starved. Had she offered a BJ, as the fat 22:30 Live Music. running round the corner perhaps flee- chicks often will, it´d been a done deal. English Pub ing what she has wrought, perhaps run- 22:00 Live Music. ning for help. 4:52 Grand Rokk Curious, I put down my book and get Outside Bar 11, I pick up a hag of a wom- 22:00 Ramming Speed out of the cab. There is a road by the sea an on the verge of middle age who wants Græni Hatturinn 21:00 Megas and Senuþjófarnir. where, as elsewhere, pedestrians have to be chauffeured to the ghetto highrises Entrance: 2.500 ISK. the right of way. Rounding the corner I of Breiðholt. She asks what the hell kin- Hressó discover the screaming girl thought dif- da shit music I´m listening to, and will I 22:00 Band Ímynd in concert followed ferent, as under her idling Yaris lies a turn it the fuck off? That´s strike one. I by DJ Bjarni. heavyset chick concealed up to her waist will not have people deriding Mastodon Kaffibarinn by the car. The panicking driver draws in my taxi. Then she starts commenting 23:45 Terrordisco. a slew of bystanders who stand frozen on my tics. She says she´s been in my cab International Studies NASA in observance of the blood seeping onto before and it´s the same shit. I must be 23:00 Reyk Veek. Dance collective the asphalt. Someone finally snaps out on drugs ‘cuz I´m showing all the physi- DJs all night! in Education B.A. degree Prikið of their trance and calls an ambulance as cal signs. Amidst explaining to her the I and two other men hoist the vehicle of particulars of my ailment, I ask her if 23:00 Girls Night! Information and application form Rósenberg off the fractured lady. A good start to the this expert knowledge of hers doesn´t 21:00 Langi Seli and Skuggarnir shift. reflect more on her than me, since I do on www.mennta.hi.is Release Concert. in fact have a condition but she ain´t got Application deadline is June 5th 1:23 no excuse for knowing what she knows. –“Dude, you saw how I got all of ‘em The woman will not be told though. She 31 SUN right. Not a fucking mark on me!”, ex- insists that I´m lit up on amphetamines. claims crew cut bleach blond number Deciding that there are no strike threes Dubliner one. in my vehicle, I eject her ass at the next 22:30 Live Music. –“Yeah, I got a punch in on that big guy lights. Háskólabíó, Concert Hall too before the bouncers showed up”, re- 20:00 Deborah Voight. Entrance: plies his pumped up fugly companion. 6:13 6.900/6.400 ISK –“I´m telling you, maybe not tomorrow, –“Flókagata first”, the woman stresses. Hressó maybe not the next day, but we’ll get –“No, Ægisíða”, the guy urges. 23:00 Silfur followed by DJ Elli. those cunts. You get some guys you can –“Hey, the cabbie knows it´s always la- Ketillhúsið trust, I´ll get my friends and we´ll find dies first, don´t you”. 17:00 The Reykjavík Big Band with Bob Mintzer. Entrance: 2.500 ISK. those guys. All seven of them. And fuck I am non-responsive. Prikið them the fuck up!”, says perp number –“Dude, it´s Ægisíða”, he argues.. 22:00 DJ Danni Deluxe. one. –“No, I ain´t going to your place. Drive Q-Bar –“Yeah, the bouncers probably know to Flókagata”. 23:00 Boys Only Dance. who they are. We´ll ask ‘em....Dude, I This goes on for a while until I put my Rósenberg need another hit of that shi...”, starts foot down. 22:00 Graduation Concert, CVI fugly guy. “Sssshhhhh, not in front of –“Look lady, the guy hailed me. You´re Diploma. the cabbie”, bleach blonde cuts him off. merely hitching a ride”. –“What you talking ‘bout. Just offer –“Ok, Fine”, she replies. 1 him some. He´s cool, right?”, asks fugly, At Ægisíða, it´s the same old spiel. MON turning to me. “He´s probably nose deep –“Come in for one drink. Just one in it tryin’ to stay up these night shifts”, drink”. Dubliner he carries on as he scoops out a key´s –“No, I ain´t coming inside”. 22:30 Live Music. worth from a portion sized bag and ex- This goes on, with variations, ad infini- SATURDAY 23 MAY Rósenberg tends it my way. tum, until the woman finally goes: 21:00 Blúsfélagið with Dóri Braga. –“Naw, I´m good”, I reply. “Strictly _“Ask me one more time”. >> Fræbbblarnir chronic for me. You go ahead though”. –“Why, what are ya gonna say?”. 2 –“Come on, try it. Just ask me”. TUE 3:13 –“Ok, why don´t you come in for a drink”. FRIDAY 29 MAY There are two seventeen year old girls –“No. Got it?”, she replies, and the Dubliner strapped for cash trying to pay the fare douche finally exits. >> Grapevine Concert 22:30 Live Music. with a pair of used panties. One of them –“What a goddamn bore”, and more to Rósenberg is shit hot and she is slipping down her that effect, she informs me all the way 21:00 Trúbatrix female troubadour underwear from under her skirt. The home to Flókagata. sessions. SATURDAY 30 MAY >> Ramming Speed Trashmetal band from USA

JUNE 4 to 7 >> Grand Rokk Culture Festival

FRIDAY 12 JUNE We open 1st of June >> Grapevine Concert

www.reykjavikbackpackers.com June 4 Silfur 11pm - 03am MUSIC Trúbatrix: Elísa, Elín Ey, Myrra Rós Admission 1500 ISK 9pm-12am. Admission 1000 ISK May 29 June 5 Discoteque 11pm - 03am MAY – JUNE Hvanndalsbræður Free Admission 9.30pm-12.30am. admission 1500 ISK May 30 – continued – June 6 Live Music: TBA 11pm - 03am Hvanndalsbræður Free Admission 9.30pm-12.30am. admission 1500 ISK Valaskjálf 3 Sjallinn June 6 WED May 29 Ný Dönsk 11pm -03am TFA Party Zone. 12am - 03am Admission 2500 Dubliner May 30 22:30 Live Music. Ný Dönsk 12am – 03am Kaffi Zimsen May 31 Selfoss 23:00 Open stage concert with Eliney Á Móti Sól, Buff 12am – 03am and Myrra. 800 Bar Ketilhúsið Rósenberg May 22 May 31 Reykjavík Big Band feat. Bob 21:00 Grapevine concert. Artists TBC. Klaufar (country music band) Mintzer 11pm - 03am 5pm – ? Admission 1500 ISK 4 May 23 THU Ingó & Veðurguðirnir Church of Akureyri 01am - 03am. Admission 1500 ISK B5 June 4 Choir of Hallgrímskirkja May 28 21:00 Three Voices. 8pm - ? DJ 800 10pm - 01am Church of Akureyri Free Admission 20:00 Akureyri composer Jón May 29 Hlöðver´s premieres choir piece Húsavík Live Music: TBA 10pm - 03am Passion Hymns. May 30 Dubliner Gamli Baukur 1st Anniversary of 800 Bar: 22:30 Live Music. May 23 Jet Black Joe 11pm - 03am English Pub Rokksveitin Sigríður Admission 2000 ISK 22:00 Live Music. 12am - 3am June 4 Live Music: TBA Rósenberg May 31 10pm - 01am 21:00 Stéfam Örn Concert. Reykjavík! Free Admission Sudden Weather Change June 5 Live Music: TBA 9pm - 01am. Admission: TBA 10pm - 01am June 5 Admission: TBA OUTSIDE Record Launch Party: June 6 Ljótu Hálfvitarnir 12am - 03am Live Music: Land & Synir Free Admission 11pm - 03am REYKJAVÍK Admission 2000 ISK Keflavík Egilsstaðir Paddy's May 22 Skjálfti Megabite 12am - 04.30am May 22 Free admission Discoteque 11pm - 03am May 23 Free Admission Megabite 12am - 04.30am May 23 Free Admission May 28 Live Music: TBA 10pm - 01am Free Admission 28 31 May 29 May May DJ Mixed Emotions 12am - 04.30am Free Admission May 30 DJ Mixed Emotions 12am - 04.30am Free Admission June 4 Classart Lifun 10pm - 01am Reykjavík June 5 Grammið 12am - 04.30am Downtown Free admission June 6 Grammið 12am - 04.30am Hostel Free admission June 7 Paddy's Poker Night Your dream location in downtown Reykjavík Akureyri International Ísafjörður Music Festival Your very comfortable bed in your private room or shared with new friends Kaffi Edinborg May 23 All over Akureyri Virtual Motion 10pm - 01am 600 Akureyri Your kitchen, common area, Admission: 500ISK internet and comforts of home. May 28 Bringing more music to the North Drekktu Betur - Pub Quiz 09pm - 11pm The fourth annual Akureyri International Music festival (AIM for short) is May 30 held this year between May 28th and May 31st, with a special concert on Hjónabandið 12am - 03am June 4th. For those of you who are new to Iceland (or failed your geography Admission 1000ISK exams horribly), Akureyri is the second largest urban area after greater June 4 Reykjavík and is generally referred to as the ‘Capital of North Iceland.’ Drekktu Betur - Pub Quiz Aim’s um, aim is to not focus on any particular music genre, but to 09pm - 11pm bring exciting music to the picturesque town. Sadly, due to the increasing June 5 cost of importing music, this year’s festival is not so international. Eyþór From Bubbis Band Organisers have instead focused on good Icelandic music drawing attention 10pm - 01am. Admission 500 ISK towards the festival. Edinborgarhús Originally started as an idea over coffee, two very different musicians, May 22 Pálmi Gunnarsson (singer and bassist for Mannakorn) and Jón Hlöðver Virtual Motion Áskelsson (classical composer), moaned about the lack of concerts in their Our help to make your plans 10pm - 01am. Admission 15000 ISK scenic village and took matters into their own hands. Viva La Revolution and experience in Iceland perfect. baby! They eventually decided on organising a blues festival to get things Akureyri going. It worked out well. The festival changed its shape the following Your friends at the new HI Hostel at Vesturgata 17 year giving more genres a chance. Over the phone, organiser Baldvin Esra Einarsson stresses that “It will develop in the future, and grow” look forward to welcoming you. Græni Hatturinn May 22 Running a festival of this magnitude isn’t plain sailing. In fact, the Dúndurfréttir (a Pink Floyd tribute organisation behind it almost went broke in 2007 because the profit in band) 10pm - 12pm. ticket sales unfortunately didn’t cover the overall costs. Generous financial Admission 2000 ISK support from local companies helped getting it back on track and things May 23 have cooled down since. CC Reykjavík 10pm - 12pm Pálmi and Jón´s main goal is not to have a huge festival like overseas, Admission 2000 ISK just a quality festival that brings invigorating acts to Iceland every year. May 28 “Overall, the introduction of Akureyri to the world is our greatest ambition. Aim festival: We also want to utilise our new music hall when it is ready. It’s being built Retro Stefson Hjálmar right now and should be ready in 2010. Then we can invite bigger and better 9pm-12pm. Admission 2000 ISK acts in to a professional music hall with proper sound and lights,” says May 29 Baldvin Aim festival: Headlining acts this year are the Reykjavík Big Band with Bob Akureyri Big Band Mintzer; the newly founded Akureyri Big Band; Reykjavík’s very own 9pm-12am. Admission 1500 ISK Hjálmar and Retro Stefson; the legendary Megas & Senuþjófarnir; and Reykjavík Downtown Hostel May 30 Mótettukór Hallgrímskirkju. The festival will mostly be held at the local Aim festival: hotspot Græni Hatturinn but also in the multifunctional art room Ketilhúsið. Megas & Senuþjófarnir Stay for a special premier of choral piece, Passion Hymns, by Akureyri Vesturgata 17 ❚ 101 Reykjavík ❚ Tel. 553 8120 ❚ www.hostel.is 9pm-12am. Admission 2000 ISK composer Jón Hlöðver Áskelsson on June 4th. —Jonathan Baker Esq. ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS

The exhibition traces the emergence Cocktail pleasures and and evolution of the island Surtsey Visual stimulation from creation through to present day and predicts its geographical and 22 2 ecological development over the next May Aug How to use the listings 120 years. Venues are listed alphabetically by day. The Late View – Halldór Laxness’ For complete listings and detailed Photographs information on venues visit Nobel Laureate and cosmopolitan www.grapevine.is Halldór Laxness was well known for his writing but he was also a talented photographer. This is an exhibition of his works. OPENING Exhibition Series: MAY Weird and Wonderful Beasts from Ice- landic Folklore by Jón Baldur Hlíðberg is an exhibition of illustrations from his book on the magical creatures of 22 10am Icelandic folklore. ENJOY PHOTOGRAPHS National Museum of Iceland The Einar Jónsson Museum Tasselled Caps Permanent exhibition: The work of Unique gift ideas from Iceland A collection of traditional Icelandic sculptor Einar Jónsson. Stray Beacons costumes along with modern designs of Gallery Ágúst tasselled caps. May 16- June 27 Hughrif/Impressions Kópasker Lighthouse by Guðrún Gunnarsdóttir displays her 22 8pm Öxarfjörð, Bjargtangar works, made out of metal-wire. The National Theatre of Iceland Gallery Turpentine Lighthouse in the The Madman´s Garden May 08- May 31 Westfjords, Garðskagi A Faroese opera, part of the Reykjavík You Are More Beautiful than A But- Arts Festival. terfly- 9 artists from Iceland, England Lighthouse in the and France exhibit their work. Reykjanes Peninsula and 23 1pm Gerðarsafn Art Museum START ART (Kópavogur) Dalatangi Lighthouse in The Washerwomen´s Walk May 9- June 21 the East Fjords Installation art piece beginning Myths and Legends as a walk that starts at Lækjartorg Featuring works from local Kópavogur 1pm - 6 pm Square and goes up Laugavegur artist Baltasar. towards the old Washing Springs of Gerðuberg Cultural Centre As part of the Reykjavík Arts Reykjavík. Walkers are asked March 21 - May 24 Festival, Stray Beacons is The Dark Truth to bring an item of clothing or bedding an unconventional group of to participate in this installation piece. A photo exhibition of the reportage “The Dark Truth: Coal Miners of China” installations by four different exposes the deplorable working artists, displayed in four different 23 8pm conditions in the worlds largest coal lighthouses spread out across the The Icelandic Opera industry. island. Jesus, that’s a mouthful. Hel Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum Readers are encouraged to travel A new Icelandic Opera by Sigurður Gljúfrasteinn was the home and from one lighthouse to another over Sævarsson. 3.900 ISK. workplace of Halldór Laxness (winner the summer period to visit these Tryggvagata 15, 6th floor · 101 Reykjavík · Tel. 563 1790 · www.photomuseum.is of the Nobel Prize for Literature in fascinating constructions, of which 1955) and his family for more than half Opening hours 12–19 mon–fri, 13–17 weekends · ADMISSION FREE a century. It has now been opened to would normally be dormant during ONGOING the public as a museum, unchanged times of perpetual light. Exhibits are from when Laxness lived there. by Ásdis Sif Gunnarsdóttir, Curver Akureyri Art Museum (Akureyri) Hafnarborg Centre of Culture and Thoroddsen, The Icelandic Love Current exhibitions: Fine Art (Hafnarfjörður) Corporation and Unnar Örn. —JB May 06- July 05 Current Exhibitions: Hulda Hákon- Two Men, One Woman Veðurskrift (Weather Writing) - and a Monster From The Sea. Guðrún Kristján. ASÍ Art Museum Guðrún is known for her powerful Current exhibitions: works that interpret Icelandic nature May 02- May 24 in an original way. This exhibition will Þóra Sigurðardóttir and Sólrún Sumar- be displaying paintings, photographs, liðadóttir- Mixed-media collaboration videos and massive installations deal- exhibition. ing with the ever changing Icelandic The Culture House nature. Permanent exhibitions: Wight Works- Jónina Guðnadóttir Medieval Manuscripts In this exhibition she wrestles with March 28- Jan 10 2010 supernatural beings and forces of ICELAND::FILM nature. This exhibition traces for the first time i8 Gallery the development of Icelandic filmmak- May 16- June 14 ing from its origins around 1904 to the Vanity Disorder year 2008 Shoplifter a.k.a Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir May 16- May 26: exhibits her new works made of hu- Orbis Terrae- ORA man hair. Performance on the culture of war Living Art Museum lead by Margrét Vilhjálmsdóttir and Throughout May- Exhibitions from accompanied by 70 artists. Runo Lagomarsino, Ylva Westerlund The Library Room. and Olivia Plender. Laugavegur 23 Current exhibitions: Lost Horse Gallery Genesis A Wild Night. Come back to an era Tel: 5526970 ð

Fiskisló

Grandagarður

1 2 3 4 5 MAPMAP The Old Harbour Ánanaust M ýra Places We Like A rgat 1 a Kaffibarinn Nýlenduga Bergstaðastræti 1 ta kaffibarinn svegur Weekends are somewhat overrated at KaffibarinnFr ifamne you ask me. Don’t get me Rána wrong, they can be brilliant if you’re rgat Vesturgat a completely pissed, the DJ is fresh and BárugatB a 8 Geirsgata the crowd is full-blooded, still the weekdays are better. It doesn’t matter a a when you pop in, you’re always treatedÖl dugat

like a pal rather than a customer, and gisgat Bræðraborgarstígur a you should always expect get caught in Æ some shenanigan, whether it’s a crazy Tryggvag Monday bender or a wacko Tuesday... 13 well... bender. SKK rðastræti at a a D G 2 Jacobsen H Skú Sæbrau Túngata 2 afnarstræti Austurstræti 9 Austurst lagat 17 7 Li a t A fairly new venue in town, Jacobsen is ræti ndargat owned by some nouveau richea Swedes, 9 a and has been providing a non-stop Ban Sæbraut party over the last few months. Besides kastræt H 12 ver its importing foreign big-shot DJs i fisgat Hofsvallagat Sólvallagat i E i a and other niceties, it is probably most 6 appreciated for its loooong hours; it ækjargata 10 a L lapparstígur doesn’t matter if you stop partying at sstræt 3 K ta 2AM or way-too-much AM, Jacobsen i L 1 augavegur tnsstígur is always forking outHringbraut shots and rga gholt Va cocktails. SKK n Ingólfsstræt Borgartún Þi 14 Suðu arstræt rnargata 16 H 3 Hemmi og Valdi tað Sk ver Tja ólavör fisgat Laugavegi 21 F a Bergs The “colonial store” Hemmi and Valdi ð tígur L us was probably 2008’s most surprising City Pond aufásvegur 15 tígur Skúlagat tún rkjuvegur crowd pleaser. The cosy hangout a rakkas La advanced from being a toasty retreat, íki F ugavegur a r Nó F where you could get cheap beer and Óðinsgata ígurGrettisg have a quiet chat, into being a chock- a full concert venue and an all-night Vitast ta party place. And believe me, the new G Njálsga Hátún atmosphere is brilliant. SKK a kimelur ta Snorrabraut Bir Bergþórugat Barónsstígur 4 Segurmo Baldursgat Laugavegi 28b a Laugavegur Sóleyjargata a a Brautarholt This place was something we all needed, a cheap and scrumptious Bragagat bistro, right inside one of our Njarðargat favourite bars: Boston. The cuisine H uðarárstígur really is Icelandic, because of their Skipholt cornerstones: the meat soup and the ta r Ra Skipholt Bergst fish stew, but the rest varies between rga Ristorante \Bar weeks, so their menu could even pass Eiríksgata Barónsstígu tún as international. So, if you don’t like Suðu Hringbrau Hljómskáli aðarstræti a the current meat dish, you might in a Park Nó L week. SKK aufásvegur t I t 5 Tíu Dropar Háteigsv Laugavegi 27 Snorrabraut egur unnarsbrau If you’re sick of all the arty cafés, filled G with Sigur Rós wannabes and their Macs, browsing Facebook– go to Tíu Flókagat Dropar. It’s a back-to-basics Icelandic Vat nsm árstígur a café that hasn’t changed their interior ýrarvegur ar Gamla Hringbraut since the 60s. Really proves the saying 7 Pizza King 8 Café d’Haiti 9 Hressó ‘if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.’ Plus, the ta Rauð coffee’s great. SKK Hafnarstræti 18 Tryggvagata 16 Austurstræti 20 To be honest, this isn’t the best pizza The first time I entered this exotic little You know, Hressó is basically the only 6 Prikið up for grabs, but it’s cheap, not pre- Njarðargajoint, meaning to buy myself a take- place I go for coffee. Why? Their coffee Miklatún heated (like at various other pizza away espresso, I ended up with two is decent to excellent, but their forte is Bankastræti 12 íð places downtown), and the guys are kilos of fresh and roasted coffee beans surely theirHringbra wonderful patio, where you Prikið is one of those places that Bus terminal rather cool. Their pizzas are always due to some language complications can enjoy the spring breeze in the sun, shape-shifts. It’s a warm café with ngahl bulletproof, and they offer various and way too much politeness. Since wrap yourself in a blanketut beneath an photographs of their senior frequenters La Ból great offers on top of it, which you then I have enjoyed probably way-too- electric heater in January and at all staðarhlí on weekday mornings, a hung-over should definitely check out. SKK many wonderful cups of Haitian coffee, times: smoke. They boast of quite the Mik ð hangout on weekend afternoons, and labr but they’re always as nice, so the two prolific menu, but I’d reconsider the aut during nights it’s filled to the brim glumýrarbraut kilos were definitely worth it. SKK playlists to tell you the truth, too much with what remains of Iceland’s hip of Nickelback really hurts. SKK Krin hop scene. Go there in daytime for the cheap burgers; enter at night for some OTT hip-hop debauchery, old skool and the latest bangers alike. SKK

Live Music Every Night∙Dome Livestic SoccerAirport Icelandic Beer on Draft and Bottles And our Infamous Wheel Of Fortune ð

Fiskisló

Grandagarður

6 7 8 9 10 13 Sódóma Reykjavík The Old Harbour Tryggvagata 22 Newly opened Sódóma on Tryggvagötu is already a hit with party crowds and Ánanaust gig-goers alike. An extensive venue, M ýra filled with reasonably priced beverages rgat and reasonably good looking people. a Some of Iceland’s finest musical Nýlendugat ventures have played in recent months, and their schedule looks promising a too. Also, make sure to visit their men’s svegur room for a glance at the “Pissoir of Framne Ránargat Absolution”. JB Vesturgat a 14 Karamba Bárugat a Geirsgata Laugavegi 22 a a Öldugat New hotspot in town Karamba is a colourful and eclectic bar on gisgat Bræðraborgarstígur a Laugavegur with a comfortable Æ atmosphere, typically great music and Tryggvag a chill crowd. This is a good place to relax or to do some serious drinking rðastræti at a a or to relax. Plus, their decors are done G strictly by Grapevine-friendly artists, Túngat Hafnars Skú Sæbrau a Austurst træti lagat such as Lóa (who does our comics), Hugleikur Dagsson (who illustrates the a t ræti Lindargat monster column) and Bobby Breiðholt a a (who’s done a lot of nice illustrations Ban for us); they are truly a sight to behold. kastræt CF Sæbraut Hver ígur i fisgat Hofsvallagat Sólvallagat i i a 15 Babalú ækjargata a L lapparst Skólavörðustíg 22 sstræt K ta Located on the second-floor i L 18 Laugarvegi 19 • 101 Reykjavík •Tel: 511-1180 aug 5 tnsstígur www.glaetan.is • Open from 8 in the morning Hringbraut rga gholt avegur of a quirky little building on n Va Bacon and eggs, from 9-12 Saturday mornings Ingólfsstræt Skólavörðustígur,Borga Babalúrtún is an inviting, Þi 14 Suðu arstræt 11 quaint and cosy café serving up rnargata 16 tað Sk 4 Hver a selection of tea, coffee and hot fisgat Tja ólavör chocolate along with delicious baked a Bergs goods and light meals. Food and

ð tígur drink aside, Babalú boasts colourfully L us City Pond aufásvegur decorated and super-comfortable tígur Skúlagat tún rkjuvegur surroundings and a genuinely friendly a rakkas La íki F ugavegur a and likeable staff. CF r Nó F Óðinsgata ígurGrettisg 16 Barbara ata Swiss Mocca Vitast Laugavegi 22 Njálsga Hátún Cappuchino a At Laugavegur 22, above Karamba, kimelur ta Snorrabraut Barbara serves up a lively atmosphere Espresso Bir Bergþórugat Barónsstígur Baldursgat for Reykjavík’s gay community and Caffé latte a anybody else who just wantsLaugavegur to dance Sóleyjargata a a Brautarholtand have a good time. The first level is Choccolate made for dancing and is often packed Bragagat with sweaty bodies, while the second

Njarðargat Books, Cd´s, and Gift´s level of the bar offers a place to sit,

uðarárstígur drink and chat and another in which to Skipholt smoke. CF ta r Ra Skipholt Bergst rga 17 Eiríksgata Habibi Barónsstígu tún Suðu Hringbrau Hljómskáli aðarstræti Hafnarstrætia 18 Park This smallNó restaurant offers up a L aufásvegur t concise menu of delicious Arabic t cuisine, from shawarma to kebabs and Háteigsv falafels. The staff is really friendly and accommodating of requests to kick Snorrabraut egur unnarsbrau up the spiciness or tone it down if the G customer so desires. Habibi seriously

gur hits the spot after hours of partying Flókagat (or any other time of day) so it’s Vat nsm árstí a convenient that the place is open until ýrarvegur 6 a.m. Friday and Saturday. CF Gamla Hringbraut 10 11 Glætan - Bókakaffi 12 Kaffitár ta Grand Rokk Rauðar 18 Kaffi Hljómalind Smiðjustíg 6 Laugavegi 19 Bankastræti 8 Laugavegi 23 The only ‘real’ bar in town, no doubt. In Glætan - Bókakaffi is a great café with Kaffitár on Bankastræti is a Njarðarga downtown Reykjavik it’s hard to rumble a domestic feel. It’s somehow always Miklatúncomfortable little café with a great The only true activist-friendly,

into a pub not crowded by musicians or a convenient choice for whatever selection of coffee, tea and baked íð community servicing co-op in town, Bus terminal Hringbra artsy folks, but this one is an exception. you’re doing when you come a across goods on offer. Since Kaffitár is also Kaffi Hljómalind lends a breath of Whether it’s 4AM on a Friday or 5PM it. I am always happy to step into this a big-name Icelandic roasterie the fresh air and a welcome alternative ngahl ut on a Monday you’ll see the same flock comfort zone and simmer down with caffeinated beverages on the menu to Reykjavík’s beer-stained, decadent La Ból of John Does, taking a break from their an excellent cup of espresso and one are quality. The wi-fi makes this a nice staðarhlí Mi cafés. Offering up a fare of vegetarian- daily routines, enjoying a shot ’n’ a of the books in their selection. Glætan,klabr place to sit and chill with your laptop to vegan friendly courses,ð some pretty aut brew. If you want to witness an earnest roughly translated, means a tiny ray as well. CF good coffee and an awesome selection glumýrarbraut Icelandic ‘Cheers’ or a ‘Moe’s’ – this is of light, something this nice little café of tea. As well as a free, anarchist the place. Oh, and on weekends, they definitely is. -AJ library. What else do you need? Krin play host to some awesome concerts, too. SKK

Domestic Airport ORIGINAL INDIAN & PAKISTANI TASTE

INDIAN INDIAN LUNCH DINNER 1290.- INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE 1490.- AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Tel. 551 0292 www.shalimar.is as Ásmundur did in his time, but in a THE MANUSCRIPTS OF LEGENDS AND LANDSCAPE ART context of a new age. ICELAND In recent years, increasing attention has been Reykjavík Art Museum Hafnarhús In this collection of articles paid to the field of folk legends, past and present, GALLERIES May 28- August 23. scholars present the story of and the information that they provide about the Possibilities Icelandic manuscripts, their people who told them, the societies in which the – continued – Works by 10 Guðmunda Kristinsdóttir medieval origins, the literature they stoytellers lived, the world view that they had, and Art Prize winners. when jazz raged, gin flowed (illegally) May 28- August 29 2010 contain and its influence up to the the spaces they inhabited. The book touches on a and Charleston crazy flappers danced Erró- Portrett YOUR FREEpresent day. Th isCOPYbook is a tribute to THE ESSENTIALwide ran gGUIDEe of material co nTOcernin gLIFE,the study oTRAVELf the night & away ENTERTAINMENT behind locked doors. Well-known IN ICELAND Icelandic contemporary the central role that medieval legends, from theory and function to historical and Have a seat at our candlelit tables and artist Erró donated 150 pieces of his o Icelandic literature played in forging social analysis, traditional case studies and analyis of enjoy popular standards of the 1920’s work for this exhibit, which will run Issue N 5 – May 8 - 22 – 2009 by Iriving Bell,+ Hoagy COMPLETE Carmichael, Fats CITYthrough LISTINGS 2010. - INSIDE! national identities in N-Europe. the way in which some of the earliest legends were Waller, The Gershwins, Rodgers & Hart Reykjavík Art Museum www.grapevine.is collected, recorded and published as a form of national heritage. and Hammerstein and Kern. Kjarvalsstaðir BILINGUAL SERIES The National Gallery of Iceland May 15- August 30 May 15- June 28 The House of Una And West 8th A selection of literary masterpieces, each containing the original text and an Icelandic translation. The work of Hrafnkell Sigurðsson Street Albert Camus: L’Étranger – Útlendingurinn and Kristján Guðmundsson. Examining the life of Icelandic artists Federico Garcia Lorca: Yerma – Yerma In conjunction with Reykjavík Arts Louisa Matthiasdóttir and Nína Tryg- Federico Garcia Lorca: Poemas – Gustur úr djúpi nætur Festival 2009. gvadóttir and their connection with The National Museum artists from Iceland and New York. Franz Kafka: Die Verwandlung – Umskiptin Permanent exhibition: May 09- August 30 Kjarval and Animals "This projectA V A IwillL A B L E I N A L L M A J O R B O O K S T O R E S The Making of a Nation Heritage and History in Iceland An exhibition focusing on Kjarval´s U N I VtransformE R S I T theY countryO F I C E L A N D P R E S S provides insight into the history of the depictions of animals. haskolautg—afan raising.hi.is – hu@ Icelandhi.is Icelandic nation from the settlement to May 15- August 30 the present day. Icelandic design, furniture, architec- out of economic collapse Jan 31 - Nov 30. ture and product design. Encounters Reykjavík Maritime Museum and into an era of Archaeological excavations at many Current Exhibitions: great good fortune” locations around Iceland have been Living Museum by the Sea; Arterial funded by Kristnihátíðarsjóður (The for Country and City; From Poverty to —David Lynch Millennium Fund). Finds from some of Abundance; The Shark – Light and Life these excavations are on display in an Energy; Hidden Craftsman. exhibition suitable for the whole family. The Reykjavík Museum of Photog- The Nordic House raphy May 21- May 24 May 16- August 30. 18 various artists, actors and musicians Life isn´t just a game-it´s also a bed from Iceland, Finland, Denmark, Swe- of roses... den and Norway perform. A collaborative project curated by May 21- May 24 Guðmundur Oddur Magnússon and ART&LOVE&ART Guðfinna Mjöll Magnúsdóttir. Installations based on the formation of Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture dialogue. Museum The Numismatic Museum Permanent Exhibition: Permanent exhibition: The Shape of Line The Central Bank of Iceland and the A retrospective of works by Ásmundur National Museum of Iceland jointly Sveinsson. The exhibition focuses on operate a numismatic collection con- abstract works from 1945 onwards. Saving sisting of Icelandic notes and coins. Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 Permanent exhibition: The Settlement Exhibition. Reykjavík Arts Festival OUTSIDE May 16- August 02 Iceland? Stray Beacons REYKJAVÍK Ásdís Sif Gunnarsdóttir, Curver Thoro- ddsen, Icelandic Love Corporation and Keflavík Unnar Örn exhibit their works in light- Suðsuðvestur Gallery houses around Iceland. See artfest.is May 16 – June 14 for more info. Exhibiton by Klaas Kloosterboer Reykjavík Art Museum Hafnarfjörður Asmundarsafn Hafnarborg May 2- April 30 2010 May 16 – June 20 Rhyme - Works by Ásmundur Exhibition “Vættir” by Jónina Guðadót- Sveinsson and other contemporary tir Elegant surroundings artists Exhibition “Madame Lemonique & This exhibition showcases contempo- Madame Lemonborough” by Guðný Superb cuisine rary artists that tackle similar issues Guðmundsdóttir

Modern comfort Preserving quality is our business David Lynch Open daily for lunch and dinners Special off er on Monday Gogoyoko presents: and Tuesday – 3 course dinner Wants You To Empty for only 4200 ISK. GRAPEVINE Reservation: tel. 552 5700, GRAND ROCK Your Mind e-mail: [email protected] Grand Rokk / 22:00 / Friday May 29 / 1.000 ISK Kimono Rökkuró Bergstaðastræti 37 s. 552 5700 + Extra-special guests [email protected] www.holt.is

+ Remembering Airwaves 2008 Guðrún Eva: Changing The World, One Word at a Time Art Takes to the Service Industry: Hlynur Hallsson

Director David Lynch recently paid Iceland a visit, announcing a project that will possibly rescue Iceland from all of its woes via Transcendental Meditation. We're very much into the idea of great good fortune, so we checked it out. PG. 14. Borgarnes The Icelandic Settlement Centre Listasafn Reykjavíkur Permanent exhbitions: The Settlement of Iceland; The Saga of Reykjavik Art Museum Egill Skalla-Grímsson. Current theatre productions: Brák – a monologue by Brynhildur Guðjónsdóttir Mr. Skallagrímsson – a monologue by Benedikt Erlingsson Storms and Wars – a monologue by Einar Kárason Stykkishólmur ICELAND::FILM Library of Water11 Permanent Exhibition: Roni Horn installation. The artist has The Culture House replaced stacks of books with glass columns containing water gathered Hverfisgata 15 from Iceland’s glaciers and glacial Until Jan 10 2010 11 am rivers. Akureyri Curated by Berlin artists Sabine Akureyri Art Museum Schirdewahn and Matthias Gallery Box Wagner, ICELAND::FILM explores Gallery Dalí Louisa Matthíasdóttir, Hans Hofmann, the progress and development Maine Landscape with Perpetuita, 1951. Akureyrarstofa Figure, 1976. Courtesy Courtesy of Amaringer Populus Tremula of Icelandic film making from it’s Tibor de Nagy Gallery. & Yohe Fine Arts. May 9 – May 10 genesis of 1904 to the year 2008. Exhibition by Kjartan Sigtryggsson Over approximately 100 films can be Kunstraum Wohnraum selected and viewed on one of four April 4 – June 21 specially designed ‘film islands’, one Exhibition by Huginn Þór Arason island for each genre; documentary, Seyðisfjörður short film, feature film and literature Skaftfell April 11 – June 7 adaptation. The show can be “The Thirteenth Day” reccommended, and provides a An exhibition by Ben Kinsley & Jessica somewhat comprehensive overview Langley of Icelandic social and cultural Hveragerði heritage over the past 100 years. LÁ Art —JB May 2 – June 28 “Flashes in the moment of Danger” An exhibition of works by 8 artists.

Nína Tryggvadóttir, Robert De Niro, Sr., Seated Nude Self Portrait, in Studio Interior with Table 1939–1940. Still Life, 1970. The Estate Courtesy Una Dóra Copley. of Robert De Niro, Sr. Courtesy Ameringer & Yohe Fine Art.

From Unuhús to West Kjarvalsstaðir Free admission 8th Street Flókagata, daily 10–17 Free guided tours in English 15 May– 30 August 2009 every Thursday at 11 a.m.

Also on show: i8 Icelandic Design 2009 Klapparstígur 33 Kjarval – Key Works 101 Reykjavík Iceland sími/tel +354 551 3666 [email protected] www.artmuseum.is [email protected] T +354 590 1200 F +354 590 1201 www.i8.is

Art | Venue finder

Artótek Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat 11–16 / Sturlugata 5 | I1 Tryggvagata 15 | D3 Sun 14–16 Tue–Sun 12–17 Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu 10–19, Fri www.myndlist.is www.nordice.is/ 11–19, Sat and Sun 13–17 Gallery Kling & Bang The Numismatic Museum www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/ Hverfisgata 42 | F6 Einholt 4 | I10 Artotek Thurs–Sun from 14–18 Open Mon–Fri 13:30–15:30. ASÍ Art Museum this.is/klingogbang/ Reykjavík 871+/-2 Freyugata 41 | I6 Gallery Turpentine Aðalstræti 17 | E2 Tue–Sun 13–17 Ingólfstræti 5 | F4 Open daily 10–17 Tue–Fri 12–18 / Sat 11–16 Árbæjarsafn Reykjavík Art Gallery www.turpentine.is Kistuhylur 4 Skúlagata 28 | F8 Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Tuesday through Sunday 14–18 The Culture House Gerðuberg 3-5 Whale Watching Hverfisgata 15 | E5 Mon–Thu 11–17 / Wed 11–21 / Reykjavík Art Museum Open daily 11–17 Thu–Fri 11–17 / Sat–Sun 13–16 Tryggvagata 17 | D3 www.thjodmenning.is www.gerduberg.is Open daily 10–16 from Reykjavík Hitt Húsið www.listasafnreykjavikur.is Dwarf Gallery – Gallery Tukt Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculp- Grundarstígur 21 | G4 Pósthússtræti 3-5 | E3 ture Museum Sigtún Take part in an adventure at sea Opening Hours: Fri and Sat www.hitthusid.is 18–20 Kjarvalsstaðir with an unforgettable trip into the www.this.is/birta i8 Gallery Flókagata Klapparstígur 33 | F6 world of whales and sea birds. The Einar Jónsson Museum Reykjavík City Theatre Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat 13–17 and Eiriksgata | H6 Listabraut 3 by appointment. www.i8.is Conveniently located in Reykjavík’s Tue–Sun 14–17 Reykjavík Maritime Museum Living Art Museum Old harbour, a three hour tour can www.skulptur.is Grandagarður 8 | A1 Vatnsstígur 3 – F6 Fótógrafí Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / Thu Reykjavík Museum of Pho- bring you up close to whales in Skólavörðustígur 4a | F5 13–22. www.nylo.is tography their natural habitat. www.fotografi.is Tryggvagata 16 | D3 Lost Horse Gallery Weekdays 12–19 / Sat–Sun Gallery 100° Skólastræti 1 | E4 13–17 Bæjarháls 1 Weekends from 13–19 and www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavi- Free entry to the Information www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100/ by appointment on weekdays. kur.is Centre for our passengers. Open weekdays Hafnarborg from 08:30–16:00 Strandgötu 34, Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Laugarnestangi 70 Gallery Auga fyrir Auga Hafnarfjörður Hverfisgata 35 | F6 The National Gallery of Call us on 555 3565 Gallery StartArt Iceland Laugavegur 12B | F5 Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | G3 or visit www.elding.is Tue–Sat 1–17 Tue–Sun 11–17 www.startart.is www.listasafn.is

Gallery Ágúst The National Baldursgata 12 | H4 Museum Wed–Sat 12–17 Suðurgata 41 | H1 www.galleriagust.is Open daily 10–17 Gallery Fold natmus.is/ PIPAR • SÍA • 80693 Rauðarástígur 14-16 | H9 The Nordic House F D For your mind, body and soul

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Viking hotel Viking restaurants Viking live entertainment Viking Souveniers

Kitchen Go For The Fish Laugavegur 60A www.kitchen-eldhus.is If you like fish, and you like fish a lot, As my grandpa used to say, “I can’t Kitchen is the place for you. It might eat it if I can’t get it past my nose.” What we think: be an added joy to know that you are The chana daal dish did what seemed Buffet’s highlight is the only thing given a bottom-less plate. Hopefully impossible; it presented a variation of For booking and further information: you also have a bottom-less stomach spices so strangely sweet that it ended Tel.: (+354) 565-1213 worth trying [email protected] - www.vikingvillage.is – and a taste for fish, the only item up being slightly bland. My lunch Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur 3 out of 5 stars amidst the other choices in the buffet date and I politely acknowledged the worth eating for your midday meal. If differing tastes, then politely put our this meets your criteria, loosen your forks down. belt a notch and get ready for some all The fish masala, prepared you can eat buffet lovin’. with sauce that isn’t an onslaught Kitchen features a lunch buffet of herbage, trumps all other dishes. every day that is a variation of Nepalese A tender piece of perfection, it is and Indian fare. This includes mixed satisfying enough to pick the fish as a 250 kr. 350 kr. vegetables, rice, chicken methi, chana main and solo item for lunch. As I was daal, and the delicious, mouth- left pushing other strange concoctions watering, fish masala, which is the around my plate, a clean spot quickly 200 kr. reigning king of all the buffet items. developed where the fish masala had 275 kr. 375 kr. Soup, made fresh every day, is also previously lain. And you can get all the part of the menu. All of the options seconds you want. The lunch buffet for the buffet change each day. The costs 1550 ISK and runs from 11:00 to 300 kr. 400 kr. dishes all have their own sauce made 15:00 during the week, 12:00 to 15:00 up of completely different herbs and on Saturday, and 12:30 to 15:30 on spices. The food shifts between sweet Sunday. The dinner menu is a little Pick your and spicy, which is a nice change of more pricey, with the main dishes pace for the diner who is tired of food ranging from 1890 ISK to 3590 ISK. favorite Plate soaked in a restaurant’s “signature There is also an extensive wine list on sauce.” offer. Yet some of the dishes, although — JOYCE GUZOWSKI they are certainly aromatic with herbs and spices, fail to impress. The chicken mehti seemed so heavily covered with herbs that it was a little overwhelming.

Lækjargötu 2a. / Borgartúni 29. tel. 561 0562

“They put on such a beautiful meal for us. | We had the most Food & Drink Venue finder amazing freshest fish I've 3 Frakkar Bæjarins Beztu Garðurinn Icelandic Nonnabiti Sjávarkjallarinn Baldursgata 14 | H4 Tryggvagata | D4 Klappastigur 37 | F5 Fish & Chips Hafnarstræti 9 | D3 Aðalstræti 2 | D3 ever had in my life. Tryggvagata 8 | B2 It was all so perfectly Aktu Taktu Brons O Sushi Sólon Skúlugata 15 | E7 Pósthússtræti 9 | E3 Grái Kötturinn Jómfrúin Lækjargata 2A | E4 Bankastræti 7a | E4 cooked too...Beautiful!” American Style Café Cultura Hverfisgata 16A | E5 Lækjargata 4 | E4 Pisa Sushibarinn Jamie Oliver’s Diary Tryggvagata 26 | D3 Hverfisgata 18 | E5 Grillhúsið Kaffi Hljómalind Lækjargötu 6b | E4 Laugavegur 2 | F5 Argentína Steak- Café Loki Tryggvagata 20 | D3 Laugavegur 21 | F6 Svarta Kaffi house Lokastígur 28 | H6 Habibi Kaffitár Pizza King Laugavegur 54 | G7 Hafnarstræti 18 | E4 Barónstígur | G8 Café Paris Hafnarstræti 20 | E4 Bankastræti 8 | E4 Sægreifinn Austurlanda- Austurstræti 14 | E3 Hamborgarabúlla Kaffivagninn Pizza Pronto Verbuð 8, Geirsgata Vallarstræti 4 | E3 hraðlestin Tómasar (“Bullan”) Grandagarður 10 | B2 Hverfisgata 64A | F7 Café Roma Geirsgata 1 | B2 Kebabhúsið Pizzaverksmiðjan Tapas Á Næstu Grösum Rauðarárstígur 8 Hlölla Bátar Austurstræti 2 | E3 Lækjargötu 8 | E4 Vesturgata 3B | D2 | H9 Laugavegur 20B | F5 Ingólfstorg | D3 Kofi Tómasar Prikið Thorvaldsen B5 Domo Hornið Frænda Bankastræti 12 | E5 Austurstræti 8 | E2 Bankastræti 5 | E4 Þingholtsstræti 5 Hafnarstræti 15 | D4 Laugavegur 2 | F5 Ráðhúskaffi | F3 | F4 Basil & Lime Hótel Holt Krua Thai Tjarnargata 11 Tíu Dropar Klapparstíg 38 | F5 Einar Ben Bergstaðarstræti 37 Tryggvagata 14 | D2 Santa Maria Laugavegur 27 | F6 Veltusundi | D3 Babalú | G4 La Primavera Laugavegur 22A, | Tívolí Skólavörðustígur 22A Eldsmiðjan Humarshúsið Austurstræti 9 | E3 F6 Laugavegur 3 | F5 Bragagata 38A | H5 | G5 Ammtman- Lystin Shalimar Vegamót Fiskmarkaðurinn stígur 1 | E4 Austurstræti 4 | E3 Vegamótastígur 4 Balthazar Laugavegur 73 | G7 Hafnarstræti 1-3 Aðalstræti 12 | E2 Silfur | F5 Hressó Mokka | D3 Geysir Bar/Bistro Skólavörðustígur 3A Pósthússtræti 11 Við Tjörnina Aðalstræti 2 | D2 Austurstræti 20 | E4 | E3 Templarasund 3 | F3 | F5 Vitabar Bergþórugata 21 | H7 Burgers

1 Hamborgarabúlla Tómasar Geirsgata 1 Grapevine pretty much subscribes to the Búlla burgers for sustenance while creating the paper you are now reading. Not only is it an extremely tasty, meaty and succulent burger, it comes for a very fair price, too. And the staff-members are all super friendly. This is the place to go for burgers downtown, unless you want a blue-cheese special, in which case you should visit...

2 Vitabar Bergþórugata 21 A steady local favourite for many, many years, Vitabar is bursting with character and a quaint charm that makes it a destination in and of itself, regardless of their awesome Dine Over Score Coffee at burgers. And since their burgers are, well, awesome, you ought to wonder why you aren’t there RIGHT NOW. Go for the Forget- Design Litla Kaffistofan me-not Bleu cheese burger, some fries and a large beer. Now. Why are you still reading Silfur Litla Kaffistofan this anyway? Pósthússtræti 11 Road 1 between Reykjavík and www.silfur.is Hveragerði 3 Drekinn Njálsgata 23 Well, since you’re apparently not interested What we think: Recommended: in Vitabar, we might as well tell you that Fine Icelandic dining in a pre- Coffee and a pancake 420 ISK nothing beats Drekinn for cheap eats in financial crisis setting 101 Reykjavík. Nothing. Their burgers are 4 out of 5 stars ludicrously inexpensive, and surprisingly 3,5 out of 5 stars tasty. And they have that awesome chilli- Reykjavík may be famous for its café ketchup that makes anything worth eating. Opened in 2006 at the art deco culture, but out of town, coffee is in Hótel Borg, restaurant Silfur initially a league of its own. Usually tanked served French cuisine, but has Coffee at gas stations, pit stops for tired recently updated its menu to offer and thirsty drivers and their cars, modern Icelandic fare in the spirit of 1 Babalú truck-driving coffee is the real fuel for the current local food trend and the Skólavörðustígur 22a travelling around the island. financial situation. Amongst the legion of boring, We quite enjoy the kitschy and cosy Bankers may have vaporised, but atmosphere of Babalú for chilling with a modern service stations, there are a Selection of elegant Gabor shoes Silfur’s over-the-top modern luxurious caffeinated beverage and a tasty baked handful that have served for decades décor sadly remains, a fossil from a goods. The folks that work there are and bags. as more homey breaks on long drives. time when you didn’t need style so genuinely welcoming and friendly too, Right outside Reykjavík, along the Quality and good price. long as you had enough money to so it’s a comfortable place to spend southbound ring road and surrounded numerous hours with friends or your swim in. by lava, you can find the oldest. laptop. They even have live music from While design is not a strength, Double-roofed Kaffistofan, time to time, which is an added treat. Silfur has made a name for serving painted in the [now defunct] Olís some of the best food in town under station brand colours a little too long 2 Hressingarskálinn (Hressó) the guidance of Chef Hafþór Sveinsson ago, marks the end of Reykjavík and (who should also be spared from the Austurstræti 20 your entryway to the countryside. style judgements – the portions looked Hressó is a fave for one really big reason: the Inside you’ll find a small, cosy good throughout our meal). patio. The covered patio area is wicked for roadside café with a quaint sense of drinking, smoking and being merry in lousy My date chose “Country” (6700 time standing still – coffee and kleinur weather and the spacious outdoor patio is a ISK) from the “Flavors” set menu have surely been the corner stones of gorgeous retreat on sunny days. The coffee selection. I freestyled, starting with the menu since the swingin’ 60s – and is hot and potent (black coffee comes in Icelandic langoustine ‘three ways’ the incredible collection of football a thermos of multiple servings so there’s (2900 ISK): a traditional fried tail, an no need to wait on refills) and the staff is memorabilia that must have been in excellent bake with almonds and a mini friendly as well. the making since then as well. burger with chorizo and grape tomato "It’s my father, he is a big fan," jam. 3 says the girl by the service desk with Kaffi Hljómalind His hangikjöt carpaccio arrived a smile, explaining the accumulation Laugavegur 23 with an upturned glass of smoke and of football relics. Indeed, the place There are many reasons to like this place. disappeared just as fast. The fine is lined with team portraits, football For starters, the international staff is super slices provided a surprisingly delicate shirts, banderols, scarves, newspaper laid back and friendly and seem to attract a experience of the smoked meat, similarly disposed clientele. Also, the coffee clips and pretty much anything else complimented by the beetroot salad. is good, refills are free and there are lots you might stick a football team’s logo Minke-whale sashimi was refreshingly of comfy places to sit and drink. The fresh on. light on the gaminess that often blights vegan baked goods compliment the caffeine The strong cup of black Rúbin is the controversial meat. nicely. Glæsibæ - tel: 553 7060 the epitome of gas station coffee, and For a main, I chose smoked duck at the back room of Litla Kaffistofan with mango, oranges and a bed of Álfheimum 74 - 104 Reykjavík you get to gulp it down whilst counting Cheap Eats wild mushrooms, onions and fresh the individually framed football players radish (4900 ISK). Stodgy sweet potato who adorn the wooden panelled walls 1 Núðluhúsið croquettes were an unnecessary in neat rows. Laugavegur 59 addition, otherwise the range of I got to 164. flavours well accented the endless pile Núðluhúsið offers up a mean plate of Pad —SARI PELTONEN Thai, big enough to comfortably serve two of meat sufficient for three women my and just right in the taste department. We’d size—not all fine dining means small surely recommend some of their other dishes, portions. My date’s lamb fillet, lamb rib but frankly we’re too tempted to just get the and beef tenderloin were good, juicy Pad Thai every time we go there. As an added Licensing and and moist, though an overly generous bonus, the place is as close to dirt-cheap as dollop of buttery lobster hollandaise you get in Reykjavík. drowned the beef and there could registration of travel- have been more of the lovely Icelandic 2 Santa María potatoes. Laugavegur 22a related services For desert, my date’s set menu This place was a revelation to the good included skyr mousse with blueberry people of Reykjavík when it opened its doors ice cream, while I tried the signature The Icelandic Tourist Board issues licences to tour operators and travel agents, just over a year ago, and it’s pretty much as well as issuing registration to booking services and information centres. desert (1500 ISK) with chocolate cake, been filled to the rafters ever since. With a vanilla and raspberry sorbet, chocolate solid and admirable price policy of “nothing Tour operators and travel agents are required to use a special logo approved parfait and fresh raspberries: all over 1.000 ISK” (which might actually have by the Icelandic Tourist Board on all their advertisements and on their Internet excellent. gone up a couple hundred krónur when you website. Service was professional and read this), Santa María’s low prices are only beat by their nice service and tasty take on Booking services and information centres are entitled to use a Tourist pleasant and through the course of authentic Mexican food. Board logo on all their material. The logos below are recognised by the the meal we were surprised with extra Icelandic Tourist Board. offerings: first, with lovely battered For full restaurant and food scallop “cigars” and horseradish listings and venue finder visit sauce; and before dessert, with layered List of licenced Tour www.grapevine.is for detailed Operators and Travel shot glasses of mango mousse and information. Agencies on: passion fruit soup. I wish all shots in visiticeland.com this town were as good. —SARI PELTONEN The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 5­ — 2009 24

Education | Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson Laying Off Iceland? Take a breather and look at the various excuses to extend your stay in Iceland.

Oodles of our well-appreciated expats then of course plain English language Further info on Universities, are finding themselves in a god-awful studies, but there are also two consid- admission and tuition situation these days. As our economy erably new courses available to interna- » plunges farther and farther down the tional students I’d like to point out. The University of Iceland drain by the day, their jobs (if any) are first one is the graduate diploma that www.hi.is continually yielding humbler paychecks the Faculty of Political Science and the » Iceland Academy of the and if they’d been so lucky to have Centre for Small States offer for the first Arts established a home or anything of the time this fall. The diploma offers a de- www.lhi.is sort, mortgage payments have reached tailed study of small state theories based » Reykjavik University on the literature on the state and the in- an absurd height. To tell you the truth, www.ru.is ternational system. It also emphasises I’d contemplate escaping this devil’s » University of Bifröst the opportunities and constraints facing www.bifrost.is island if I were in that position, but small states in Europe, i.e. how they are that resort can also be troublesome affected by and have responded to the » University of Akureyri – the price of tickets outta here has process of European integration, new www.unak.is increased in direct correlation with the security threats, globalisation and other » The Cultural House decline of the Króna – so you could domestic and international challenges. www.ahus.is really be stuck in an evil limbo. This might be just the thing for those of » The Reykjavik School of you that have sunk into the EU debate. Visual Arts Another interesting course in the www.myndlistaskolinn.is ut don’t get too pessimistic, there University is the International Education » are options up for grabs – and Bachelor and Masters Degree, which is Tækniskólinn Bsome of them are pretty solid. currently being established. The aim www.taekniskolinn.is The thing is that Iceland’s selection of of the degree is to emphasise education universities and colleges is pretty grand, in the widest sense of the word and stu- ways to go. The Reykjavik School of Vi- and most of them (if not all) offer various dents are expected to be fluent in three sual Arts offers preparation diplomas for studies taught in English. Plus, the bulk languages upon graduation. further art studies, and so do several ju- HAVE YOU SEEN THE HAIR? of them are really cheap, in an interna- nior colleges such as FB, Borgarholtsskó- tional sense at least, and some are even Arts, arts and business li and Tækniskólinn. In 1886 a young woman in the region, free-of-charge. Thus, the Grapevine de- If you’re more into business-orient- with beautiful long hair, started to collect cided to give you a small reading tour to If you wish to try your luck in the dan- ed education in the private sector, the the hairs that got stuck in her comb. lay down your bets. gerous perimeters of the arts, we have a newly founded business academy next to Decades later she had gathered enough few resources. The biggest institution is Reykjavík’s beloved private Commerce The Oldest University, Small State the Icelandic Academy of the Arts. The High School might rouse your attention. to knit herself a shawl. While she was at Studies and International Education recent outburst in artistic excellence in Bearing the palatial name Reykjavík it she also studied and learned Esperanto, Iceland can partly be blamed on this University, the institution offers various becoming one of the first Icelanders to This here big school, the University fine institution, which has practically courses in all areas of business, but their master that language. But now you can see of Iceland, hosts over 13,000 students raised the bulk of Icelandic artists. It’s a international sector is mostly interwo- her shawl at Húsið museum in Eyrarbakki. annually. It is the oldest and most es- bit odd that the school doesn’t advertise ven with the graduate courses. Another tablished college in Iceland and offers how easy it is for international students business academy located near Bor- versatile studies in their numerous to fit in, but about 80% of the courses garnes in the West of Iceland, Bifröst, departments. It also happens to be the are taught in English, due to interna- boasts also of various studies in English, only one that passes as a university – in tional teachers etc. Then again, their ad- one diploma combines for examples po- the American sense at least. Most of the mission process is rather strict and only litical science, philosophy and law. courses in their graduate departments about 10% of the applicants are eventual- After having recapped all these op- are in English, e.g. International Busi- ly admitted into the school, so they really tions, the financial limbo seems to be ness, Marketing etc. It is a bit more don’t have to advertise anything. Their caving in against all these educational strenuous to find a bachelor’s program design, architecture, music and theatre opportunities, so you might want to completely in English, but there are still departments are all outstanding accord- stick around a tad longer and witness not several around. ing to those in the know. only the crash but also, if you’re lucky, Open May 15th - Sept. 15th: 11 - 18. Other times by arrangement. | www.husid.com To begin with, the “Icelandic for If you’d like to establish your artistic the resurrection – with a degree to your Foreigners” program is rather basic and posture a bit beforehand, there are a few name, no less.

Kraum of the crop Aðalstræti 10 101 Reykjavík Designers unite in Kraum, Tel: +354 517 7797 the first store in Iceland www.kraum.is dedicated entirely to Icelandic design, displaying over 120 Opening hours: Mon-Wed 09:00-18:00 selected designers. Kraum Thu 09:00-22:00 has breathed new life into Fri 09:00-18:00 Reykjavík´s oldest house dating Weekends 12:00-17:00 back from mid 17th century. LET THE FUN BEGIN! Beautiful and accessible handbook with great ideas for fun family days in Reykjavík. HVÍTA HÚSIÐ / SÍA – 09–0223 The activities are endless: Horseriding, museums, whalewatching ... along with theme parks of all kinds, and so much more ...

The Reykjavík Grapevine Another must see: Issue 5­ — 2009 Impressions at Gallery Ágúst Guðrún Gunnarsdóttir 24

Art Reviews Fiction Conflicting The City is Alive With Reality A first glimpse of Artifacts the Reykjavík Arts Festival Curated by: Ingunn Fjóla Ingþórsdóttir Engaging exhibitions are gracing the Reykjavík galler- and Þórdís Jóhannesdóttir. ies and museums. Coinciding with the Reykjavík Arts Festival, a few spaces have opened up new shows that Kópavogur Museum of Natural History stimulate the senses. And the best part, there is still more www.natkop.is to come. I spent the day at the Kópavogur Museum of Natural History with artist Sigurrós Svava Ólafsdóttir as she explained the A few highlights thus far: ideas and concepts behind the recent Artifacts exhibition, cu- rated by Ingunn Fjóla Ingþórsdóttir and Þórdís Jóhannesdót- Hrafnkell Sigurðsson and Kristján Guðmundsson at the Na- tir. tional Gallery of Iceland The Museum is situated at the bottom of the Kópavogur library. Although small in size, it compacts in this space a sub- stantial amount of native wild birds and sea life specimens. The participants of this group exhibition were an interesting mix between upcoming and more renowned artists concerned with humans’ effect on the environment. There was an excit- ing contrast between young artists such as Harpa Dögg Kjar- tansdóttir, whose Milli Heima installation revamped the algae tank and mimicked the plant life growing through an intricate collage of glossy magazine clippings. Close-up, the exotic look- ing collage was comprised of clocks, fruit, jewelry etc., giving the tank a new vibrancy and the artwork fanciful dimensions. This contrast was complimented by hosting more estab- Both artists present challenging and thought provoking work lished artists, such as Hildur Bjarnadóttir, renowned for her in this exhibition. textile art and contributions to the environmental art scene. One of Hrafnkell Sigurðsson’s works in the exhibition is a Her Endurgjöf work, made specifically for the exhibition, video installation, “7 x 7”. The piece is immersive, seductive consisted of dyed wool samples produced from the trees and and touches upon the divide between humanity and nature. plants around her mother’s home, which were then knitted The beguiling colour and imagery draws the viewer in imme- into a pair of gloves engraved with her mother’s favourite na- diately. The larger than body scale and use of reflective surfaces tive pattern. Each dyed wool sample reflected the colour of the make the installation even more immersive. Most importantly, leaves or bark that had been growing on her families’ land for there is strong infrastructure in his work where this strik- years, capturing aspects of their memories and surrounding ing visual goes deeper beyond its surface, exposing interest- landscape. ing ideas about perception and culture/nature. The footage is taken at Kárahnjúkar of men in orange outfits swaying back The walk through and forth in an icy landscape. The subject matter of Kárahn- As we wandered around the collection, artworks could be seen júkar demonstrates the struggle between man and nature, be- hidden behind, in front of and around the artifacts. The art ing that this is the location where one of the big controversial was intertwined with the collection, blurring facts and fic- dams was built in Iceland. Similar to Sigurðsson’s other work, tion. The exhibit seemed to question the museum’s role of this juxtaposition of humanity and nature is clear in the video, categorising and conserving history, suggesting whether soci- and at moments the two fields are distinctively separated and ety doesn’t emphasise enough on preserving natural artifacts thereby implying an irrelevance to one another. There are other outside historical institutions. Peter Thomsen demonstrated times where the body and nature resemble each other and fuse this well with his work Sandkassi. Consisting of sand he dug together in a hypnotic manner alongside the non-jarring and from the Hálslón dam site in Kárahnjúkar, just before it was subtle sound, allowing the familiarity to dissolve. The work is built, he creates a miniature square sculpture that looks per- captivating on different levels, including its relevance to pres- fectly natural but is in fact unnaturally constructed. The piece ent day Iceland and how it relates to painting with its tactility was displayed alongside crystals that are found in land across and depth. Iceland, emphasising the importance of keeping natural heri- tage. Peter’s work was one of the first we saw before entering Within Reach at Kling and Bang Gallery the collection of taxidermal birds and emerging artist Unnar Kling and Bang Gallery has a group show with Carle Lange, Örn’s work Wardian-Garth – a small hut made from glass and Dóra Ísleifsdottir, Kristján Björn Þórðarson, Páll Einarsson, wood panels illuminated by neon pink lights. The little shed Reinert Mithassel, Tinna Lúðvíksdotir, Úlfur Eldjárn & Þorval- was filled with postcards Unnar has been sending himself dur Þorsteinsson. whilst on his travels. What’s fascinating about the piece is the Almost like a haunted house, you are led through a maze/ contrast between the migrating birds that he displays next to, obstacle course where at times you are walking in the dark and suggesting himself as one of these birds in flight. other times encountering an intimate moment with artwork. Throughout the exhibition, as you are manoeuvring around Seeing Sea creatures the dark obscure path, you are frequently separated from the Artist Harpa Árnadóttir’s collection of limestone and coral “art”, where you have to see or peer at it voyeuristically through were appropriately placed in the shellfish section with prac- openings, holes and windows. You soon realise that the whole tically no interference to their appearance apart from the ar- experience becomes the art and the interior passageways are rangement. These particular lime algae are exported from Ice- fascinating within themselves. The artists at Kling and Bang land to be produced into food supplement pills or to aid in the Gallery have created another world where the installation be- preparation of mortar and cement, but what effect will their comes unconsciousness – nightmarish, bizarre, nostalgic and overproduction have on their habitat? As artist Sigurrós Svava ethereal at times, and full of surprising and disorienting dis- of health Ólafsdóttir said whilst explaining the work: “ It’s amazing, the coveries. It is almost like you have been transported into a Da- A source amount of things that are happening to our environment that vid Lynch film. Thermal pools and baths in Reykjavik are a source of we just don’t know anything about.” Sigurrós was situated directly next to Harpa and for the ex- Vanity Disorder at i8 health, relaxation and pureness. 94% of foreign hibition had created a series of detailed drawings, juxtaposing Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir aka Shoplifter

guests that visited thermal pools and baths in the man-made and the natural. Although appearing random Reykjavik and i8 Gallery, of artist the Courtesy Reykjavik said it had a positive effect on their at first, most of the drawings were intended to have some nar- rative. For instance, the popcorn bag filled with dyed sheep’s health and well-being. wool was an anecdotal reference to her childhood growing up as a farmer’s daughter. The drawing conveyed the conjured scents of salty popcorn and freshly bound wool reminiscent of her youth.

Nearing the exit Welcome to Reykjavik´s Thermal Pools Anna Líndal is known for her practice of collecting and dis- playing household objects. Her installation evoked a con- flicting parallel between the shells we collect and display for studying and the abundance of decorative ways we encounter these shells in our everyday lives. Part of the intrigue of the Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir aka Shoplifter is showing her sig- work is the relationship we have with the seashell and how we nature work of human and fake hair installations, bas-reliefs, have formed an admiration for its beauty. Interestingly Anna drawings and photographs. One of the strongest works is on is collaborating with two other contributors of the exhibition, the left side of the gallery, which looks like a flag/rainbow/ban- Hildigunnur Birgisdóttir and Bjarki Bragason, on an ongoing ner of hair freely installed on the wall. This contrasts with some project since 2007 named “The Branch Collective” in close of the other pieces on the walls, whose traditional frames are co-operation with Safnasafn, the museum for outsider art in a bit distracting and detract from the experience with the art. Svalbarðsströnd, northern Iceland. —Lana vogestad

Exhibition runs until August 31. For more information on the Tel: +354 411 5000 www.itr.is www.spacity.is exhibit, visit www.natkop.is. For the outsider art museum, see www.safnasafnid.is. —Richard P Foley Taste the best of Iceland ...... with a little bit of spanis thrown in! There are over 70 courses on our Tapas menu so drop by and indulege in our exellent food in the greatest of atmosphere.

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9 Daytime studies: Many courses on offer intended for beginners and advanced students. Starting August 20 (autumn term – finishing in December). Applications for daytime studies in the autumn before June 12. Price is ISK 18.100 pr. term – take as many courses as you can for this fixed price. 9 Evening studies: Four courses on offer: ÍSA1024, ÍSA2024, ÍSA3024 and ÍSA4024. Starting September 22 – finishing November 26. Applications should be sent in September. Price is ISK 11.500 for the course – 60 lessons (price includes a textbook).

9 Distance studies: One course on offer: ÍSA392. Starting in August – finishing in December. Applications before August 20. Price is ISK 12.500 for the course.

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The Reykjavík Grapevine Car provided by Hertz Where is it? Issue 6­ — 2009 www.hertz.is Approximately 200 km along the south- bound road number 1 from Reykjavík. Buses on the route Reykjavik-Höfn stop at the petrol 26 station daily at 8.30 and 17 from Reykjavík.

Travel | Destination: Vík í Mýrdal What to do in Vík: Watch rocks and sail on a car (yes, sail on a car!) Dyrhólaey and Reynisdrangar rock Watch Your Back formations offer beautiful views. For the best ones, go to the beaches around Vík, to Reynisfjall or Reynisfjara hills or take Don’t let the serene atmosphere of the southern village of the marked road to Dyrhólaey, which turns right from road number one before Vík fool you. Vík (coming from Reykjavik)Dyrhólaey- jarferðir takes tourists on its car-boat- combo to see the rock formations. In Vík, the little white-and-red www.dyrholaey.com. Tel. 8936800. church stands alone, overlooking Watch birds Reynisfjall hill above Vík has several the sleepy village. Birds nest in the walking paths, lots of birds including the vertical Reynisfjall cliffs and waves cute and clumsy puffins. The area is a crash against sea carved stone preserve during nesting season. Buy wool columns by the black beach. Vík wool’s woollen products are a bit Vík (Icelandic for ‘bay’) or Vík cheaper here than in the fancy-pant tour- í Mýrdal (in full: ‘bay in the marsh- ist shops of the capital, and the selection is good. As a bonus, you get to see how lands’) is the southernmost village the goods are produced. in Iceland, the wettest place in the Austurvegur 20, www.vikwool.is country and, with an impressive Swim Like any self-respecting town in Iceland, 300 inhabitants, one of the largest Vík has an open-air thermal pool. settlements in the area. I have Walk on the beach several reasons to believe that Vík Black sand, massive waves – what is there not to love? Just – please – watch is also the epitome of all things out for the waves! creepy. Walk on the lava After Vík, the lava fields of Mýrdalssan- dur take over the landscape. Hjörleif- 1# Grumpy Gods shöfði (231m) is a good walking destina- I recently watched the film “Wrath of tion from Vík with nice views over to the Gods”, which documents the making of Westman Islands. the potentially epic adventure film “Be- owulf & Grendel,” shot in the Vík area in Where to eat: 2004. Things went so badly wrong that Puffin Hotel’s restaurant is the place to the crew, desperate for some explanation see and be seen in Vík. for their troubles, came to the conclusion Halldórskaffi attached to tourist informa- that the Norse Gods were sabotaging tion office in Brydebuð serves the best the film. On our trip, the car windshield burgers in town. cracked, the coffee was consistently bad, pears to have calmed down again and the Plans are ready in case of disaster and their death. What is it with this town? Grill at Esso Petrol Station is your saviour when everything else is closed – on road I lost a contact lens and the iPod shuffle University of Iceland monitoring station the inhabitants of the village regularly number 1 played only 90s hard rock. What had we has found no further alarming activity practice running up to the church, the 4# Silence of the Lambs ever done to them? – beyond the everyday earth-quaking. only building high enough to offer hope Vík was originally founded in the 9th Where to sleep: You can see for yourself; the web cam of salvation. century by Hjörleifur Hróðmarsson, but Hótel Puffin 2# Sleeping lady at www.ruv.is/katla may not be action They gotta love that place. it stayed – for good reason, it seems to The family-owned Hotel Puffin is the main One of the most notorious volcanoes in packed, but I am sure Pierce Brosnan me – uninhabited until roughly a cen- hotel in town. Also sleeping bag accommo- Iceland, Katla, is located just above Vík, would understand my concerns. I’m sur- 3# Troops of Trolls tury ago, when the local fishing co-op- dation. Vikurbraut 26, www.hotelpuffin.is slumbering under the thick icy blanket prised he’s not running around calling While my fearful gaze is drawn toward erative was established in 1906. Today, Hótel Höfðabrekka of Mýrdalsjökull. town meetings at this very moment. the slumbering horror under the glacier, the harbour is no longer in use due to A large, reportedly haunted, country Katla’s crater is 10 km in diameter, Whilst a 750-metre thick ice cube on Vík has become a famous post card mod- silting and on a normal weekday after- hotel 5 km east of Vík with 60 rooms and and it is connected with Eldgjá (‘fire top cooling off the lava cocktail seems el on account of the geological sights in noon Vík is eerily quiet. “Is it some kind a big restaurant. www.hofdabrekka.is canyon’) – the world’s largest volcanic like the perfect solution to me, the resi- the other direction – the strange basalt of a public holiday today?” my travelling Vík camp site is located beyond Edda Hotel on the eastern side of the village canyon – and Laki crater in Skaftafell Na- dents of Vík, scholars of these matters, formations of Dyrhólaey and Reynis- mate asks, and indeed, there is not a liv- Norður-Vík Youth Hostel tional Park. Together they make for one hardly agree. drangar by the sea. Then again, accord- ing soul to be seen. Empty parking lots. On the hill behind the village, the massive of the most powerful volcanic systems in Katla’s eruption will cause jökul- ing to local folklore, these twisted shapes No pedestrians on the main street. Have international hostelling logo on the wall the world. hlaup: glacial outburst floods. The are in fact trolls turned to stone by the they all gone up to the church? Is Katla makes this impossible to miss. Katla is still active. Since the Settle- amount of water coming from the melt- sunrise while dragging their boats to erupting? Are the Vikings attacking? www.hostel.is ment, it has erupted 17 times, every 70 ed ice could reach 200,000 cubic metres shore. So maybe I should keep an eye out Did I mention spooky? years or so. The last eruption was in per second – four times the combined av- to sea as well. Great. — JR 1918, so the next one is long overdue. erage discharge of the Mississippi, Nile As a little Vík style bonus: the Reyn- In 2002, the seismic activity in the area and Yangtze rivers. The village of Vík isfjara cliffs are known for waves power- rose dramatically, but the volcano ap- would be wiped out completely. ful enough to drag foolhardy tourists to

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Get your action-packed day tour brochurehure / tel. 570 3030 WESTMAN ISLANDS at hotels, airports or any travel agent. The Reykjavík Grapevine The authors of this article are the organis- Issue 5­ — 2009 ers of the lecture series in question, so you should definitely read the above with that in 27 mind.

Article | Nýhil The Program: Tuesday May 26 @ 8PM / Hall 102 at Háskólatorg (University Square, Univer- sity of Iceland Campus) The Commies Are A-Coming » Michael Hardt: The Common in Communism Radical academics will soon be storming Iceland with some » Antonio Negri: Some Reflections on the Concept and Practice of serious outside-the-box thinking about politics Communism Thursday June 11 @ 17PM / Hall 101 at Oddi (University of Iceland Campus) Left strategy: defence or offense? » Peter Hallward: Definitely the latter What is Political Will?

Chantal Mouffe has since the early nine- Saturday June 13 @ 14PM / Hall 102 ties been a leading voice in Marxist self- at Háskólatorg (University Square, criticism, not least with the publication University of Iceland Campus) of her seminal work Hegemony and » Chantal Mouffe: Socialist Strategy. Mouffe and her col- Radical Politics Today league, Ernesto Laclau, have urged the The lecture series is organised by Nýhil Left to disband a fixation with class in with the support of the European ‘Youth favour of the inclusion of gay and lesbian in Action’ Program, the Humanities activists, environmentalists, feminists Division and the Philosophical Insti- and other groups that rose to promi- tute of the University of Iceland, The nence during the years of the ‘New Left’. Philosophical Society and the Iceland Mouffe has since turned her criti- Academy of The Arts. cal attention to the political theories of mainstream liberalism, severely criticis- ing them for their homogenising and on the Left. The notion of political and moralistic vision of society. Democracy, popular will has not been prominent on Mouffe argues, is all about conflict the agenda of radical movements, while and incongruence, not consensus and according to Hallward the reworking of Iceland’s problems are not the result of Negri, Michael Hardt, Chantal Mouffe, ‘shared values’. As a keen political ana- notions – perhaps best expressed with Words inefficiency. Nor are they result of un- and Peter Hallward. They will give open lyst, Mouffe has tried to describe the the slogan ‘Power to the People!’ – are Viðar Thorsteinsson ethical behaviour. They cannot be traced lectures in Reykjavík this month and the Left’s strategical opportunities. From crucial to the viability of a future radical and Magnús Þór Snæbjörnsson back to the instability of the króna, to next, and are likely to have something to being on the offensive during the sixties left. Davíð Oddsson’s erratic behaviour, or to say about Iceland’s current debacle. The and seventies, the Left was forced into a Geir Haarde’s mishandling of telephone lecture series is brought to you by Nýhil, defensive position following neo-liberal- We are broke on ideas, let’s admit it This month and the next, some of conversations with Alistair Darling. The a collective of young entrepreneurs, un- ism’s victory march in the 90s. the world’s most radical think- Icelandic problems – yes, all of them – til now most famous for its avant-garde Academia has sometimes been a breed- ers will be giving talks in Iceland. are failures that result from the system poetry publications and annual interna- Power to the people! ing ground for progressive, democratic They could well turn out to be the that governs the world: capitalism. tional poetry festival. and egalitarian ideas, but for many de- Bust-and-boom cycles are part and Antonio Negri is probably the best- Peter Hallward is the youngest of the cades it has hardly brought us anything inspiration needed to continue parcel of capitalist development, not known of the four visitors, having ac- radical scholars visiting Iceland, but other than sheepish economists, char- the kitchenware revolution of this some rarely heard of anomaly. This has quired martyrdom in the late eighties has already made a name for himself latan gurus of ‘management’, cultural winter. been well known for almost two centu- when he was wrongly convicted by Ital- as a highly original and sharp thinker. studies cynics. Marxism, with its idea ries, so why is everyone so surprised? ian authorities of bearing responsibility While translating and introducing con- of the unity of theory and praxis, has This is perhaps because when public for the kidnap and murder of Aldo Moro, temporary French theory to his British always been about joining scientific re- opinion turned against Soviet commu- Italy’s prime minister. Negri was then countrymen, Hallward has himself writ- search and social consciousness. nism in the late 20th century, it acciden- already a well known figure in Italy’s co- ten a celebrated book about modern day This winter’s popular uprising has tally (or intentionally, depending on your lourful Left, having founded the Autono- French and American neo-colonialism now entered a hiatus, waiting to see how viewpoint) also dumped the insightful mista movement in the early sixties. in Haiti, a critique of postcolonial theory far the current Left-wing government theories of one of the greatest econo- In 2000, Negri rose to stardom again and literature, and is currently conduct- can take us. But truly revolutionary mists of all times: Karl Marx. with his academic blockbuster Empire, ing research on political and popular politics are never the product of politi- co-written by his younger colleague, will. cians; it needs the active participation “The Communist Manifesto of the Michael Hardt. Empire has been hailed While these thinkers have much in of ordinary people. In order to continue 21st Century” by the alter-globalisation movement, common, they also have their differ- the revolution, Icelandic revolutionaries and was called “the Communist Mani- ences. In her lecture, Chantal Mouffe are going to need more than political Marxism in the humanities, however, festo of the 21st century” by The New will contrast her own ideas with those perseverance. We are not “only broke on has been a flourishing discipline for York Times. Hardt and Negri have since of Negri, and Hallward has also been a money”. We need revolutionary ideas! decades and regularly breeds innova- published the follow-up Multitude, and vocal critic of some of the philosophical tive ideas. Iceland will now have the continue to develop their ideas in close tenets behind Hardt and Negri’s theory. chance to benefit from the teachings of proximity with protest movements on Hallward is in many ways a highly un- four distinguished Marxists: Antonio the Left. usual thinker compared with others

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Get your action-packed day tour brochurehure / tel. 570 3030 WESTMAN ISLANDS at hotels, airports or any travel agent. The Reykjavík Grapevine Article | Continued from pg. 6 Issue 6 — 2009 Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl writes our regular poetry column. He is an building minutes later. No one ever succeeded in awesome writer/poet in his own Radio to the other debunking Indriði’s ghostly manifestations. 28 right. When I ask Haraldsson why Icelanders are side. particularly fond of the mystical side of life, he says: ‘Iceland is by no means the most spiritualist Books | Review Poetry | Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl In Search of the Real McCoy country in the world. According to our research we are below the United States, on a par with Italy, I start with the University of Iceland’s semi- but certainly among the highest in Europe.’ retired Professor Emeritus of Psychology with This dampens my spirits. Naturally, I was Warning: You don’t need poetry a penchant for the supernatural, Dr. Erlendur hoping Iceland would be at the very top of the list. Haraldsson. We meet in Perlan during the I was always sure ghosts, contact with the dead middle of the week, as the sun shoots clear bright and mediums was something that everyone in Anyone that gets a rudi- genstein (a practitioner light across the bluest sky on Earth; well, at least it Iceland takes on board like going to shop at Bó- mentary education in of that other “difficult” seems so on that day. nus and eating skata once a year. It was part of the the Western world, or art: philosophy) once Was that a fairy that just whooshed by? national heritage like Þorrabót and Megas. at least in the places I said: “Do not forget Dr. Haraldsson has led an unusual life to say Before the doctor and I part company, I ask know anything about, that a poem, although the least. In the 1960s he camped out with Iraqi him: ‘Iceland and elves? What’s with the elves?’ is taught that poetry is it is composed in the Kurdistani rebels. Later, he travelled to Andhra He smiles, sips his hot chocolate almost scien- like vitamins – it’s good language of informa- Pradesh to witness the extraordinary Sai Baba. tifically, and says, ‘Well, other countries believe in for you. It’ll enlighten tion, is not used in the Haraldsson’s book, Miracles are my Visiting flying angels, bodhisattvas, ancestor spirits; elves have been in the Icelandic imagination since be- your mind, make you more language-game of giving Cards, documents many of the impossible feats attributed to this controversial mystic, and many fore the sagas. They came over with the first set- aware of your emotions, your information.” Focus on Iceland failed attempts to disprove them. Sai Baba is de- tlers when they arrived from Norway.’ sensibilities, the entire scope of This misunderstanding is also why scribed as a godworker and a prophet, and the In 1923, the British theosophist Edward Rafn Hafnfjörð and Ari Trausti your inner life. It is the “highest of art so many poems of poets that don’t numerous manifestations that he creates out of Gardner received two photos anonymously in the forms” – so sublime that it can hardly read much poetry have more to do thin air continue to stupefy. According to official post. They were grainy celluloids of two little girls 2009 be viewed with human eyes, read with with anecdote or lineated prose, than figures, his adherents across the globe now num- and five sugarplum fairies. Enthusiastic, Gard- Salka human brains. It’s extremely difficult they have to do with poetry – I feel ber well over six million. Sai Baba is considered a ner rushed off to the printing presses. The Cot- to understand and just to grasp the like this [insert metaphor-cliché] risk to the state by the Indian government, and is tingley Fairy Photos had all London raving. Even This travel book from 2008 is built littlest bits of it requires a life-long and then I feel like that [insert kept under a vigilant, watchful eye. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, creator of the guileless Sherlock Holmes, was convinced beyond a shad- around 600 photographs by Rafn Haf- commitment. metaphor-cliché] – and even more Haraldsson has travelled to Sri Lanka and Lebanon to investigate children who remember ow of a doubt. Sir Arthur emblazoned his convic- nfjörð, a well-established Icelandic pho- While none of this is necessar- experienced poets often don’t seem past lives. He has extensively researched psy- tions in his first work of non-fiction, The Coming tographer known for his photographs ily untrue, the same argument could able (or willing) to ever stray from the chics, ghostly visitations, the paranormal and of the Fairies. The girls, Elsie Wright and Fran- of Icelandic landscape and sceneries. as easily be applied to rock’n’roll, to realm of the metaphor, the most basic near death experiences. In short, he is quite a guy ces Griffiths, had played a prank at the expense The text is supplied by Ari Trausti, a movies – to the whole boatload of of poetic tools (metaphor is to poetry, in the scheme of the ethereal, and possibly the of Spiritualist-mad London; Sir Arthur became poet and geophysicist, whose works con- “popular culture” that we (as a society) as 4/4 is to rock’n’roll). only Icelander who has made any serious attempt the laughingstock of the establishment and, to cern geology and volcanology, as well simultaneously love and loathe. Many In this manner, a lot of the poetry to explain these phenomena from a scientific his dismay, discovered that he had written fiction as environmental science. Therefore, of the so-called simple songs of the that people find “difficult” can seem to perspective. What I really wanted to find out from again after all. Faeries quickly became relegated he is certainly an eligible co-author for Eurovision Song Contest are in fact be very simple ditties to anyone who Haraldsson was if Icelanders have some unique to children’s books shelves. As a cohort to Never- land’s Peter Pan, Tinkerbell was never quite taken a travel book about Iceland. The book is complex constructions that meld spends time reading it. The juxtapo- trait that makes them more prone to visitations, and if somehow they are more in tune with seriously—at least not by us adults. As far as J.M. composed in a very simple way. The pic- super-produced pop-genres with eth- sition of one pretty image with the things that go bump in the night than the rest of Barrie was concerned, that was pretty much the tures – organised three to four to a page nic music, the history of which reaches next, jumping between the lilies of us. point: you can only see the truly magical through – follow a route from just outside Reykja- thousands of years into the past of the ponds – it’s not rocket science, In 2007, Haraldsson conducted a survey the eyes of a child. vík, north up the ring highway heading participating countries. And yet you’ll and it’s not cross-word puzzles (i.e. with Terry Gunnell of the University’s Folklor- I hear from another Icelander that aside from to the Westfjords and on to Akureyri, never hear anyone say they didn’t quite you’re NOT supposed to “solve” it – it istics Department. Completed with three hun- elves and the hidden people (huldufólk), that and, from there, due east to Egilsstaðir, “understand” the Armenian song – that doesn’t “mean”, it is “mean”). It’s Layla, dred and twenty-five subjects from all walks of there are fairies in Iceland too (blómálfar). My finally returning to Reykjavík. Each its use of musical intricacies simply A Hard Day’s Night – but it’s also Das life, findings indicate that an average of 30% of friend tells me that her grandmother has some picture is accompanied with a three to left you baffled. Very few people ask of Wohltemperierte Clavier, Atari Teenage Icelanders have at one time or another visited a in her conservatory. They prefer swirling around five sentence explanation, providing pop-music that it should be simpler, or Riot, African tribal music and Mack the medium or attended a séance, 25% are convinced the begonias, which her Amma has been nursing that elves probably exist, and 26% believe that faithfully for years. background information on the origin that movies should not have so many Knife. You can have your pick of the contact with the dead could be established though Terry Gunnell is more forthright about su- of names and significance of the places. jump-cuts, should not be shot from litter. the channelling talents of clairvoyants. Magnús pernatural Iceland: ‘Imagine what it was like On the back cover of the book the reader weird angles or with unnatural camera Imagine for a minute that your Skarphéðinsson, President of Sálarrannsókna- to the early settlers arriving here just off the can find a map of Iceland, marked with movements. Quite the contrary, we’ve experience of poetry was the same félags Reykjavik (the Reykjavik Paranormal cramped boats; you’re exhausted, you’ve battled page numbers corresponding to the im- completely embraced all of popular- as your experience with music, that it Investigation Society) and Dean of the Icelandic torrential waters for the past weeks. There’s not ages preceding it. On the front cover is a culture’s complexities, so much so was everywhere – that there was no Elf School, maintains that over 54% of Icelanders a soul in sight, no human habitation, and yet small road map of Iceland. that they’ve become utterly mundane way of escaping it. Literacy of poetry, believe in elves and, depending on whom you call whispers of steam are rising from the land; in the The guide starts with an introduc- – we don’t even notice them without a like literacy of pop-music, movies etc. a medium, there are around 25 practicing in Ice- right light, even now you could mistake them for tion to Þingvellir. No chapter numbers, conscious effort to do so. is an acquired skill and “complex” is land today. spirits. Remember, they were pagans, bound to Possibly the very first internationally re- the nature, worshipped Óðinn, Þór, Freya. headlines or table of contents are pro- And yet, when it comes to literature a very relative term. It’s of note that nowned Icelandic psychic was the country lad ‘Of course there were mythical creatures liv- vided, making it seem unorganised at in general, and poetry in particular, the more anyone listens to music, the Indriði Indriðason. At the time, Spiritualism ing in this wild, icy place. What else could they first glance. Considering that this is a most people’s first reaction is to not more complex their taste becomes; the was all the rage. In the 1890’s, Madame Helena be? To top it all off, you had cloud formations un- photographic travel book, the images “understand” it – giving up before less anyone listens to music, the more Blavatsky channelled new visions from her bohe- like any ever seen, you had the northern lights, are slightly too small to really convey you’ve tried is the name of the game – mainstream their taste. The same goes mian pad in the British Raj where she formed a hot water bubbling from the earth. This was a the beauty of the places therein. Some of no matter how often poets and writers for poetry. new spiritual movement: Theosophy. Her book, land unlike any other, a land of Gods.’ them don’t even show anything special. try to emphasise that you are in fact The bottom-line is this: poetry is The Secret Doctrine, became an instantaneous Perhaps the fairies and elves were just along This could have been circumvented by not meant to “understand” it. This is not vitamins, and you’re not going cult bestseller. Many of the great thinkers of the for the ride? placing just one or two photos on each one of the problems of making art to shrivel up and die if you don’t get day adopted this new spiritualism. W.B. Yeats, Al- Scattered here and there throughout the Ice- dous Huxley, T.S. Elliot and Wallace Stevens were landic countryside, if you are looking carefully, page, thereby giving them more ample with and through language, a medium regular doses of it. It’s not (necessar- all avid Theosophists. you will see little houses painted on the sides of space and, in the process, possibly pro- we first and foremost see as a vehicle ily) any more difficult than pop-music. Soon enough, miracle workers, mystics, ma- rocks—possibly the fancies of children. If you viding even more impressive ideas of the for information – it’s what we use to And you don’t need it. You can, I’m gicians and séance parlours were creeping up all consider Gunnell’s explanation that fanciful locations. communicate our thoughts. It’s how I sure, live a very decent life without it. over Europe and the US. Crowds flocked to Drury landscape and weather married with pagan myth The information alongside the pic- tell you that I’m hungry, how you give I’ve seen it done. And although you’ll Lane in London and Niblo’s Garden in New York leads to fanciful imaginings, some things start to tures is clear and brief, but after having me directions, and so forth. But poetry miss out on the fun, and that never to witness spectacles like the marvellous Chung make sense. read the short explanations the reader doesn’t work like that. Ludwig Witt- killed anyone. Ling Soo, the magnificent Harry Houdini, and Then tell me, why do I still have goosebumps? is sometimes left longing for more. For the savage Nana Sahib. Sceptics and occult de- Next time: I interview a deep-trance medium a deeper understanding of the natural tectives also started oozing out of the woodwork, and come in contact with a collective unconscious doing their utmost to debunk Spiritualist char- life-form. Seriously! wonders and further insight into Iceland latans. One of these was Dr. Guðmundur Han- Marc Vincenz was born in Hong Kong. His as a country of geological amazement, nesson, a well-respected medical professional, book, Animal Soul, a wild adventure based on another book would be required read- scientist and founder of the Icelandic Scientific indigenous mythologies, will be forthcoming in ing. Moreover, a slightly larger map on Society. He arrived expecting to catch Indriði China later this year by Shanghai Wen Hui. He is the back cover would be helpful in order red-handed, but came away gaping incredulously presently working on a non-fiction book on mod- to get a a better idea of the vicinity of the himself. ern mysticism, and a collection of poetry, A Pock- sights to the main highway. Still, “Focus In one session, Indriði levitated all the way up etful of Crickets. He has been coming to Iceland on Iceland” is a solid, easy to use guide to the ceiling like a helium filled balloon, despite for near to fifteen years, and travels frequently for tourists seeking ideas of when and the doctor trying his damndest to hold him down. between Reykjavik, Zurich, Barcelona and Hong In another session, he literally vanished into thin Kong. He speaks many languages, but still hasn’t where to stop during their circuit of the air, only to re-materialise on the other side of the quite mastered the enigma that is Icelandic. island. — IRINA DOMURATH the only club in town

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THE BIGGEST CLUB IN DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK. LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND. WWW.NASA.IS The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 6 — 2009 30 MUSIC Dr. Zühlke & and Mr. Eldon NIGHT LIFE Two men. One album. TRACK OF THE ISSUE Lots of dissent.

Download your Carving a smooth line from the – + Mikael Lind’s second album free copy at cutesy, sweet-toothed openers – is eleven pieces of very laid- grapevine.is into darker territory towards back and relaxing electronic the end, Alltihop’s eventual slide music. Quite shy and discreet, into depression is so welcome that it "Alltihop" develops its qualities quite practically renders the first two-thirds subtly: Lind has a very good sense of the album irrelevant. The first six for melody and maybe even more, tracks are so perfectly circular and he is a good composer as he piles go-nowhere that after a while it feels up layer upon layer of different and like your brain is turning sideways. beautiful synth parts. However, at Tiny cute bells and you-had-to-be- a certain point this also reveals the there samples abound, and the distinct biggest shortcoming of the album: the feeling you’ve heard this many, many Mikael Lind amount of Lind’s great ideas does not keep up standard. Good thing for all Sudden Weather Change times before is unavoidable. Although meet with the lifeless instrumental of us that the good men of Sudden Alltihop (2009) they are technically the same standard conversion – just synthesizer and a Beatlemania Weather Change agreed to lavish their exercises in synth programming mikaellind computer – at all. Mostly in more quiet sensuous ode to teenage boredom - suddenweatherchange accompanied by those fucking skittish, parts as in "An Army Of Puppets,” the Beatlemania - upon this ish. Brimming » Boring pitter-patter drum beats that just won’t album is thin and somehow incomplete Download the free track of the issue with the odd mix of exuberance go out of fashion, the album closers Nice electronic tunes arranged « without a broader arrangement of BEATLEMANIA at and ennui that's been winning over have genuine emotional strength – with too little fantasy instruments and can enfold neither local crowds for two years now (and www.grapevine.is something sadly absent for the rest emotion nor dynamics in the end. ensured a tightly packed release gig at After introducing our awesome new of the ride – and frankly, they aren’t That is why "Alltihop" seems more a Grand Rokk last week), the track is a "free track of the issue" thing with interesting enough to make it worth it. blueprint of a record. prime cut off their prime début, Stop! a splendid Valgeir Sigurðsson piece —SINDRI ELDON —FLORIAN ZÜHLKE in the name of handgrenade whatever last issue, we knew we had to score and ever amen, man... you guys something extra special to + Concert Reviews – + Nordic Sludge At Its Best

The Psyke Project Celestine Momentum Helgi Hrafn Jónsson Plastic Gods Saturday, May 16th For the Rest of My Childhood Quadriplegiac (2009) thepsykeproject (2009) plasticgods Brutal!!! helgijonsson Excellent metal ambience, It's quite nice. though regrettably rife with the Although perhaps not the most unmistakable scent of cock. inspired 43 minutes ever committed I had to weave past the drunks spewed at to CD, For The Rest Of My Childhood After leading us on with thirteen the bar and the drunks gambling their nevertheless accomplishes very minutes of magnificent drone, last króna on fruit machines to reach the nicely what it sets out to do. Helgi Quadriplegiac’s opening track devolves stairs of Grand Rokk – kinda like Har- Hrafn’s beautiful voice, strained and into a stoned, floppy masturbation rison Ford in Indiana Jones – only to be desperate, yet somehow also formal session, as happy to adopt rock and told that the show started an hour after and wooden, carves its way through metal’s biggest clichés as it is to ignore the time listed on the flyer. Naturally I oc- bangs across the room. ing aside, Psyke Project’s slaying guitar seven predictable post-punk numbers their ground rules. This sets the tone cupied my time by drowning my sorrows Dominant figures in the Icelandic screeches, chug filled bass lines, crash- with amiable charm. Oddly enough, it nicely for the two other epic-length with a fine Icelandic beer and watching metal scene, Celestine brought the mosh. ing drums and guttural vocals compli- seems to become more defined at the tracks on the album, which both shift the copious amounts of folk celebrating A cocktail of emotive Converge punk rock mented for one hell of a show. end: the last three tracks are by far carefully between abject, angst-ridden Iceland’s runner up award in the Eurovi- and doom-ridden brutality mixed with a Highlights of the night include the the most honest and vulnerable on the doom and massive power riffs barely sion song contest. floor punch or two equals a fucking good small girl in the grey jeans slam dancing album. visible through the cloud of bong smoke Eventually all this tedious hanging time. It also featured some of the greatest with the best of ‘em and Psyke Project The stakes are never raised around them. And as if the ‘stoner-rock’ around was rewarded when Momen- breakdowns known to Satan. bassist Jeppe’s showman antics. All of quite high enough to make an impact, (what a stupid term) posturing wasn’t tum vocalist/bassist Hörður took the Headliners The Psyke Project, one of which kicked Eurovision’s ass. however, and charm alone cannot bad enough, it also seems haphazardly stand – firm, like a proud Viking war- Denmark’s foremost exports alongside — JONATHAN BAKER ESQ. sustain the album’s energy. The thrown in, as if an afterthought. The rior, in front of those glaring orange Ecco shoes and Carlsberg, started their pedestrian production isn’t quite tough-guy blues riffs have been done lights and equipped to the teeth with a late-o’clock set with ‘technical difficul- decisive enough to provide much of to death, and frankly the album doesn’t beard and hair longer than Odin’s pu- ties’. I personally believe it was either the an atmosphere either, making for a need them. It functions perfectly well bes. Momentum´s crushing mixture of work of huldufólk or that The Psyke Proj- frustrating listen; it’s too punctuated as an exhibit of glorious, unforgiving post-metal, epic psychedelia and techni- ect used up all Grand Rokk’s electricity and forceful to drift away to, and yet sludge, as entrancing as it is satanic. cal math caused a domino effect of head charging their über-sludge batteries. Jok- too laconic to get excited about. on the —SINDRI ELDON album.—SINDRI ELDON

ICELAND :: FILM – Berlin – Copenhagen – Reykjavík MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – EDDAS AND SAGAS A LOOK INTO NATURE Icelandic Filmmaking 1904-2008 The Ancient Vellums on Display The Story of the Icelandic Museum of Natural History

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gogoyoko.com/videos Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland STUFFED WITH STUFF ISSUE 6 YOUR FREE COPY

Page 10 “Come on in darling,” she said, and I thought it’d be brilliant, drinking champagne in the midst of a revolution. Epic. Then I was on the balcony, having my drink, when the teargas bombs went off. That was real deca- dent. Artist Ragnar Kjartansson says artists should never refuse champagne.

Page 6 “It can drive you crazy waiting like this, year after year – sleep- ing, eating, sleeping – not know- ing what they’re going to do with you.” Being an asylum seeker in Iceland is no picnic.

Page 8 An average of 30% of Iceland- ers have at one time or another visited a medium or attended a séance, 25% are convinced that elves probably exist, and 26% believe that contact with the dead could be established though the channelling talents of clairvoyants. Marc Vincenz explores the transcendental Icelandic underground. Kynntu þér úrræði vegna greiðsluerfiðleika

Page 26 Познакомьтесь с возможными решениями проблемы выплат по займам Vík (Icelandic for ‘bay’) or Vík Hãy tìm hiểu về các giải pháp cho những khó khăn về tài chính í Mýrdal is the southernmost village in Iceland, the wettest Olaksice za one koji imaju problema sa placanjem kredita place in the country and, with an impressive 300 inhabitants, Cónoce las distintas soluciones a tus problemas de pago one of the largest settlements in the area. I have several reasons Zapoznaj się z możliwościami rozwiązywania problemów finansowych to believe that Vík is also the epitome of all things creepy. Check out our options in case of financial difficulties Sari Peltonen was freaked by Vík. Познакомьтесь с возможными решениями Seneste nyt vedrörende lösninger af ökonomiske problemer проблемы выплат по займам Conheça os recursos disponíveis áqueles com dificuldades de pagamento de empréstimos

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Hãy tìm hiểu về các giải pháp cho những khó khăn về tài chính www.ils.is / www.hff.is Borgartúni 21, 105 Reykjavík Tel: 569 6900, 800 6969, [email protected]

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