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Melbourne Bushwalkers Inc. makes no warranty as to the accuracy or completeness of any content of this work. Melbourne Bushwalkers Inc. disclaims any warranty for the content, and will not be liable for any damage or loss resulting from the use of any content. WALKERS! SEE THE PEOPLE WHO CARE o o o molonys

BOOTS RUCKSACKS SLEEPING BAGS TENTS STOVES CLOTHING FOOD MAPS YES WE HIRE WALKING GEAR

ALL THE GREAT NAMES FAIRY DOWN - PADDYMADE - BLACKS - FLINDERS RANGES HAWKINS - MOUNTAIN MULE - KARRIMOR - OPTIMUS molonys 197 ELIZABETH STREET, MELBOURNE (OPPOSITE G.P.O.) Telephone: 67 8428 (3 lines) Vol. 13, 1971

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Editor: Athol Schafer.

Advertising: G. Kenafacke.

Distribution: Rex Filson.

All enquiries to: Melbourne Bushwalkers, Box 1751Q, G.P.O., Melbourne, 3001.

WALK is a voluntary, non-profit venture published by the Melbourne Bushwalkers in the interests of bushwalking as a healthy and enjoyable recreation. WALK Vol. ~3, 197~ CONTENTS Editorial 3 The Brumby Runners Geoff Kenafacke 4 The Wolgan Valley G. Wills-Johnson 6 Problems of Man .. J. C. F. Wharton 10 The Great Gorge .. F. W. Halls .. 19 Books for Bushwalkers Michael Griffin 24 Fire in the Forest Environment R. Johnson .. 26 Mountain Muster .. 32 A Stroll in Nepal Dave Oldfield 36 Eskdale Spur Track Athol Schafer 40 Territory and Personal Space Michael Griffin 45 Mapping 67 Snake Hill Wildflower Reserve 70

WALKS SECTION Extended: Easy Walking in the Northern (six days) 53 Along the Snowy Range (three days) 57 Mount Darling Area: Mount Darling- Wonnangatta Valley Bryces Gorge (three days) 60 Moroka Gorge (two or three days) 63 Mount Terrible- Big River (two days) 65 One-day Walks: A Day Roaming in Strath Creek Gorges 66 An Easy Walk in the Sherbrooke Forest 68 Rysons Creek Wildflower Reserves . . 69 Cover Photo: Wilsons Promontory: I ohn Brownlie.

MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS always welcome visitors on their walks which include easy one-day excursions and week-end trips. Extended walking tours of three days or more are also included on the programme. If you are interested, then call in any Wednesday night, from 8 to 10.30 p.m., to the clubroom, Hosier Lane, Melbourne (at the rear of the Forum Theatre). Details may be obtained by writing to the Hon. Secre­ tary, Box 175/Q, G.P.O., Melbourne 3001, or by phoning 97 3724.

2 EDITORIAL

The events since "Walk" 1971 was published are astounding and frightening. Part of the Colong Caves National Park has been lost; the Clutha development scheme threatens to take over valuable bush and farm land irrespective of the rights of individuals; and the beautiful Lake Pedder is shortly to be submerged beneath the weight of a giant hydro­ electric scheme. Each of these acts of political piracy are inexcusable and no apology needs to be made for raising the issues yet again.

The joint attitude that industry is entitled to mineral deposits wherever they are discovered, that the government's sole job is to manage the economy, and that progress is dependent on industrial expansion, are all too prevalent. These ideas have created environmental problems on a gigantic scale.

These problems have led many bushwalkers to join one or other conservationist bodies which have come into being over the past few years. But before we rush off to become crusaders in the ecology scene, before we raise our voices righteously, we should make an examination of the ground on which we stand. Nobody (outside the interested oil firms) wants those pipelines cutting our parklands; few seem at all enamoured with oil storage plants on headland or beach, with the dangerous possibilities of ocean pollution, oil slicks, etc. But after all, we do need that second (or third) family car ... don't we?

We see our native forests stripped and replaced by the short-generation Pinus radiata to supply newsprint and to keep up with increasing circula­ tion figures. We see our hills quarried to the ground for metal and stone in the increasing need for construction that modern day living demands. We see our native fauna-penguins, koalas, seals-decimated by the inroads of a giant steel industry. We see our bush tracks (many of which we have blazed ourselves) invaded by trail-bikes. And we accept all this with scarcely a protest.

Of course it is up to the individual to decide how far he is willing to go in opposing the many assaults threatening our environment. It should be realised that community changes in values will have to be made if we are to preserve areas of , where we may walk free from the reminders and pressures of so-called "progress". Along with other like­ interested parties the bushwalker has a right to be heard on this matter. 3 THE BRUMBY RUNNERS By Geoff Kenafacke

We had just driven into Quambatt Flat and were all busily inspecting the aircraft wreckage when Colin noticed the camp on the far side of the clearing. Presently we drove over. As soon as we alighted the bushman greeted us with a hearty "Gooday". Turning towards his camp he yelled "Mother, we've got company. Better put a billy on". A kindly-faced, middle-aged woman then emerged and greeted us in the same open, friendly manner of her husband. Our new friends were brumby runners. Apart from Arch and his wife, the party consisted of their three daughters and two cobbers, Dennis and Moose. They hailed from Buchan and were spending six weeks holiday brumby running around The Cobberas. It was the annual event for the party as a way of "making a few bob" during the layoff from the timber mills. Out across the tlat stood The Cobberas while the headwaters of the Murray River trickled down one side of the grove. The camp was quite a sight. In the trees, a rough wire corral penned several brumby mares and colts. The campfire consisted of a tree trunk and huge branches, with attendant billies and quart pots in the ashes. Saddles, ropes and harness were dumped on one side of the fire and a battered old Landrover ute and a couple of rough canvas shelters and scattered camping paraphernalia completed the picture. Over a cuppa, we explained that we had driven in from Omeo and Benambra via the Limestone Track and they listened with interest as we described the small bands of brumbies that we had encountered en route. We eventually set up camp nearby and after tea we rejoined the family for a comfortable evening. yarning around their huge fire. By this time, the night was decidedly chilly and a second tree trunk had been added to the blaze. I remembered the old saying, "The bigger the fire, the bigger the fool", but Archie must have guessed my thought as he countered, "It's gonna be cold tonight and we gotta keep warm". We talked well into the night, fortified by numerous billies of tea and slabs of damper which "the missus" had baked since our arrival. Everybody laughed as Dennis recounted how Moose had played Santa Claus for the youngest girl, Tracy. Apparently the little girl had been worried that Santa wouldn't find their little camp so far out in the wilderness beyond Buchan. Moose, having entered completely into the Christmas spirit (with the aid of Johnny Walker), decided to dress up and take Santa's role. Accordingly, a tuft of dried grass was tied to his face to serve as whiskers and twigs stuck in his horse's bridle, as antlers. and then Santa rode into camp, atop his trusty steed "Rudolph" to dispense Christmas cheer. Tracy awoke, sleepy-eyed and yelled, "It's him. Santa!" Unable to control their mirth. Dennis and the girls retreated from Tracy's hearing while Moose handed out presents and advised Tracy "to be a good girl and do the dishes all year". To end the comedy, Moose mounted his horse backwards and rode off into the darkness. Tracy was still marvelling next day as to how Santa had found her. They also told us how "Cobberas", a young brumby foal and family pet, had been captured. As with kangaroos, its mother had dumped it 4 during a frantic chase through the ranges and had attempted to draw the pursuers away. She outran her tormentors but, unfortunately for her, they found the foal. The awkward spindly-legged creature appeared to be only several days old when caught, and it was the centre of attention around the camp, being frequently bottle-fed and sharing a tent with the girls all night! We finally bedded down, still chuckling over the numerous stories and were woken just a few short hours later to all the excitement of a brumby chase. The sound of cracking whips, excited, yelling men, thundering hooves and panting horses brought me out of my tent at a run. Racing along the edge of the timber were two brumbies, hotly pursued by Arch and the boys. Seeing the camp, the wild horses veered and shot up a gully behind the corral. The men gave chase. Hurdling logs, ducking under low limbs, they stayed in the saddle and appeared to be mere extensions of their mounts. Ahead of them, the brumbies tore recklessly on, their manes and tails flying. The corralled horses grew very nervous and whinnied and pranced and gave the impression of barracking for their compatriots, as doubtless they were.

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Arch and Dennis eventually returned without Moose and without a prize. They were somewhat dejected as they told about "the ones that got away", but they had nevertheless enjoyed the chase. Archie was just recounting it for the second or third time when we heard a rider approach. Looking up, we saw Moose, his horse gently ambling down the slope and behind, a nervous little greyish black brumby mare. Reward at last! There she stood, flared nostrils snorting, fear-filled wide eyes and with sweat gleaming on her flanks, one of the prettiest young horses we had seen. Moose sat astride his mount, his face beaming with pride and Arch stood, thoughtfully appraising the mare. After allowing us to take photos they headed her towards the corral and then tragedy struck. The little mare, sensing her cherished freedom really coming to an end, reared and jerked on the rope. Nobody saw exactly what happened; maybe she tripped, maybe she threw herself. Whatever the cause, the result was that the beautiful creature broke her windpipe. We were all shocked by the sudden and destructive action and the mood changed instantly from joy to sudden panic and grief as the significance dawned on us. Moose ran to the stricken animal and tore the rope from her neck. Not yet realising the mortal wound, he desperately applied mouth to mouth resuscitation but the mare didn't respond. Finally seeing that she was beyond help, we turned away as the young bushman loaded the rifle. It was a very despondent Moose who returned to us a few minutes later. We had to part company with these folk shortly after, but we all considered our trip a much more memorable and worthwhile event for this experience. It had meant something to us to have met these bush folk and been accepted by them and to have shared their friendship and some of the laughs and sorrow of their camp. 5 THE WOLGAN VALLEY By G. Wills-Johnson

It's all very well leaving the kids with Grandma, or taking it turn and turn about for you or the wife (or even, perhaps, Grandma!) to go out with the club on week-end walks, but what about that week's holiday? Impossible, you say, heading as usual for that dreary guesthouse down at Rosebud for the fourth year in succession, knowing that it will be a safe beach for the kiddies, and a safe bet that you will put a couple of inches on the spare tyre as a result of spending all those bored afternoons in the pub half-listening to boring people talking about fishing. I think we can get you out of this mess. With luck no divorce need be involved, particularly if you have been wise enough to choose a bushwalking spouse; and you might even be able to fit Grandma into the scheme of things. You need an area where you can drive in to the heart of spectacular scenery and set up a base camp from which Grandma can ramble off into the surrounding mountains each day while you look after the kids. If the scenery is quite different from the sort of thing you see on week-end walks in Victoria, so much the better. Such an area can be found 530 miles from Melbourne. The Wolgan Valley is a favourite with bushwalkers, and has some of the finest scenery in . Travel through Albury, Wagga Wagga, Cowra and Bathurst. Turn off the Great Western Highway at Wallerawang and go through it to Lidsdale, where the road to Newnes is well signposted, and sealed out as far as Wolgan Gap. Jt is worth stopping here for a moment, particularly if you have arrived just at sunset, when the red light on the sandstone cliffs which wall the Wolgan Valley makes an unforgettable picture. The road drops a thousand feet in a little over a mile, and for the first time since leaving Melbourne, is unsealed. However, provided you watch for wandering cattle and the occasional spoon drain, you should reach all that is left of Newnes the old weatherboard pub­ safely. As usual things are cunningly arranged so that the join between maps runs right through the centre of interest. However, it is well worth buying both of the contoured I : 50,000 Royal Australian Survey Corps maps: Glen Alice (1963) and Glen Davis (1961). Passing the pub (there was talk when I was last there in March, 1970, that Jim Gale, the licensee, might have to surrender his licence because the upkeep of the place was getting beyond him- he being about the same age as his hotel, which was built eighty years ago. I hope you will not be disappointed) ... PASSING the pub, as I say, you come to open green paddocks where the rest of the town used to be. Ideal camping sites are easy to find around the edges where the forest begins; the Wolgan River is deep, clear, and fast-flowing; and sheer sandstone walls over 1000 ft. high close in the valley, which has narrowed to about half-a-mile across, on every side. Even if you do no walking, I think you will find it was worth driving 500 miles to spinebash in such a pleasant place. 6 Let us suppose, however, that you really ARE a frustrated bush­ walker, who fully intends to do some walking, but who has got a little out of condition one way and another. A nice gentle limbering-up walk on the first day seems indicated. You have no soul if the bucolic poet in you is not brought to life by following the gentle grassy green valley of Little Capertee Creek up in a westerly direction from the camp. Take the north branch when you reach the fork at map reference point 189999. The valley continues to rise gently, and the sandstone cliffs have dwindled to low tumbled monoliths on either side. If Grandma has come with you a few moments difficulty may be experienced where the creek comes through a narrow place in the rocks at about 180002, but it is well worth heaving the old dear up there somehow (it isn't very difficult), because we have a little surprise for her. We are now in a small shallow grassy valley sloping up to a smooth saddle a couple of hundred yards ahead. Strolling up to the saddle you find a two thousand-foot drop on the other side of it, and a magnificent view across to Genowlan Mountain. It really is quite dramatic, and I once derived great interest from getting up there first and watching the expressions on the faces of people following who had not looked at the map and did not know what was ahead.

From here it is well worth while walking along the scarp in either direction, and there is a high point of bare rock at about 174992 from which you get a magnificent view of the valley of Little Capertee Creek and the plateau into which it and the Wolgan and many other streams have carved themselves. To the south-west there is a commanding view of the valley of Red Rock Creek. From here there are several alternative routes back to Little Capertee Creek, some of which involve a certain amount of cliffhanging, and others some rather strenuous bracken-bashing as in some of the gullies it has had years and years to grow into a dense, frustrating tangle. It might be an idea to send Grandma back the same way she came up. All our walks in the Wolgan area seemed to end up at the Newnes pub. However, assuming (a) that yesterday's limbering-up walk has not laid you out completely, (b) that you did not stay so long at the finishing­ point that you now have a hangover, and (c) that you have not fallen over a cliff-which is an occupational hazard of walking in this area (if you don't believe me go down to the old railway station and read the plaque attached to the side of the platform); assuming that none of these things has come to pass, you will be keen for further action. The successor town, in a sense, to Newnes, was Glen Davis. As the crow flies, the two were no more than five miles apart. The distance 7 by road is sixty-five miles. However, the bushwalker who only wants to SEE Glen Davis, as distinct from actually GOING there, can to some extent emulate the crow. Both Newnes and Glen Davis owed their existence to oil shale. Newnes sprang up from about 1903 onwards, and at its peak probably had a population of about !000, but failed in 1924 when the price of fuel oil suddenly fell. Glen Davis was established in 1940 as a result of the 1939/45 war. Portions of the plant from Newnes were transferred and a 3 in. pipeline (parts of which I am told can still be seen-if you know where to look) laid across to Newnes and thence 32 miles along the old railway formation to Newnes Junction, near Lithgow. Glen Davis suffered much the same fate as Newnes after the crisis passed, but much more of it still remains to be seen. The route to follow is up the creek on the western edge of the Glen Davis map. The creek gradually leads into a canyon. Narrow and winding, with smooth white walls, and overhung with tree ferns and bracken, these canyons are an interesting feature of this type of country (there is another at ref. 203987 on the Glen Alice map). Eventually it becomes easier to climb out of the canyon on the left-hand side and follow along the base of the cliffs until (about ref. 239023) you come to an open, bracken-filled valley, one branch of which comes in from the left. Make, however, for the right-hand side, and as soon as the wall of rock on your right gives way, climb up the terraces of bare rock on the east side. It is an advantage to try to remember the route you take up these terraces for the return journey. At the top there is a rather unpleasant scrub bash for several hundred yards, but the reward is a fine view over the Capertee Valley and the remains of Glen Davis. Once again, having come up to the head of a fairly gentle valley, we suddenly find ourselves looking over a 2000ft. drop on the other side. Maybe by the third day you will be feeling rather tired, in which case a great excuse for a lazy day is to have a look over what remains of Newnes. You will already have had a distant view of the remains of the plant from the route over to Glen Davis. Of particular interest are the old rows of beehive-shaped kilns on the hill behind the works on the south side of the valley, some of which have been broken open. Provided you are not allergic to nettles (which heavily infest parts of the area), there is a great deal to be seen by fossicking around, and if you work your way gradually down the valley it should be possible to have a very pleasant lunch beside the river below the townsite, and spend the afternoon swim­ ming or lazing on a sandy beach gazing up at the overhanging cliffs on either side. Should you, on returning, feel some sense of guilt at having been idle all afternoon, it is always possible to scramble up the steep path to the high point at 230990 (keep well round to the west side in your approach). from which you can get an aerial view of the hotel, your campsite, and the intricate branchings of the valley. I think this would be a good point from which to commence a walk at plateau level in an easterly or south-easterly direction, and intend to do this next time I am there. Also on the list for future visits is the famous glow-worm tunnel on the railway line, commencing at 205925, which again, in my limited acquaintance with the Wolgan Valley, I have not yet had a chance to see. The opportunities of the area are vast, particularly if you can break with the base-camping, day-walking routine, and range further afield. Yes ... I think if Grandma wants to come next year, we'll have to get her into PROPER training. Maybe we'd see you up that way, too! 8 Maybe it's a place in the Red never stop searching for the Centre or the Barrier Reef, 'special places'. Tasmania, West Australia, the Gold Coast. perhaps New Guinea. Somewhere your Ansett Airlines AtAnsett we know every­ Travel Agent knows a special body is different. That's why we place for you.

9 PROBLEMS OF MAN

By J. C. F. Wharton*

The title of this article implies a very broad theme. I intend simply to note that important progress has been made towards the control of environmental problems mentioned by Judith Wright McKinney under the title "The Battle of the Biosphere" in Volume 21, 1970, of "Walk", and to refer in some detail to other problems which I believe are of first-rank importance to the future well-being of man. My purpose in pursuing the environmental theme in a bushwalkers' magazine may be of interest. People who go to considerable trouble to walk frequently in the bushland for the sheer pleasure of seeing and appreciating the miracles of nature have personal values which seem now to be fairly uncommon in our modern world community. It is probably just these sorts of values which offer the greatest chance of solving the problems I will talk about in this article. We should perhaps think seriously of returning to nature, at least in some sense. Man's greatest problem is his destruction of the environment he lives in. There are two aspects of this often thoughtless, but sometimes wilful action which have become better known in recent times in Victoria. The first is the many-faceted problem of pollution of water, soil and air, and the second is the increasing use of bushland and other natural areas for other purposes. Evidence of our increasing awareness of these prob­ lems and concern is not hard to find. References to misuse of land and to the more obvious forms of pollution are to be found almost every day in the popular press and the Government has responded by enacting two pieces of legislation which deserve comment. The first of these is the Environment Protection Act of 1970 which makes provision for the creation of an Environment Protection Authority and gives very wide powers to control most forms of pollution. This Act has been hailed as a most far-reaching and enlightened piece of legislation and it gives the new Authority a clear charter to control pollution of water, air and soil and to restrain our noise-makers and litterbugs. Heavy penalties are provided and if the Act is administered along the lines of its clear intentions, we have every reason for thinking optimistically of a clean environment in the not-too-distant future. The other legislation I want to refer to is the Land Conservation Act of 1970 and this provides for the creation of a Land Conservation Council consisting of 12 persons with specialized knowledge and experience in the conservation and use of natural resources. The Council will make recom­ mendations on the use of all public land in Victoria and it has the responsibility of safeguarding the present and future needs of the people of Victoria in relation to areas which are: ecologically significant; of great natural beauty or historic interest; of value for conservation of fish and wildlife or for national parks; necessary for forests or for the preservation of species of native plants. Here, too, there is evidence of sound thinking and clear planning in forward-looking legislation which accepts that man cannot live by bread alone.

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11 Unfortunately, the environment as we know it is not completely safeguarded by the two new Acts of 1970- far from it! Unless we reduce the birth-rate and maintain our population within definite limits, and unless we use, individually and collectively, a fairer share of the available natural resources, we shall be overwhelmed by sheer weight of numbers and our open spaces, as sacred (to some) as they may now appear to be, will be destroyed by people and the products of an overpowering technology. I will refer first to some aspects of the population problem which have been the subject of much discussion among some of the world's leading ecologists in recent times. Professor L. C. Birch of Sydney University writes-"if men were mice we would say that there was clearly a plague of men on the planet although not many parts of the earth actually look very crowded with people". Ecology is the study of organisms (including man) in relation to their environment and one of the things we learn from it is that most creatures have an enormous potential to increase in numbers. For example, it has been estimated that a pair of house flies would, if allowed to breed without any natural checks, cover the face of the earth to a depth of 48 feet with their progeny in about six months. Fortunately, this does not happen, because house flies and all other living things have, for various reasons, a death-rate which keeps the total numbers in a population within bounds. Man also has an enormous capacity to increase his numbers but for the first 200,000 years of his existence his high birth-rate kept just ahead of a high death-rate. This situation changed about 8,000 years ago with the invention of agriculture. With greater availability of food and fewer deaths from starvation and related causes man's numbers increased, but it took about 1000 years to double the total population. The industrial revolution was the next major step in reducing man's death-rate and the time to double his numbers fell to 200 years. The doubling time was further reduced to 35 years with the mastery of diseases in the 19th century and he is now, to quote directly from Birch, "doing what is rarely allowed in nature, growing with checks at a rate of 2 per cent. per annum". The total population of Victoria at the present time could be squeezed, shoulder to shoulder, into a 175-acre paddock. At the present rate of increase the whole of Victoria will be covered with people at that density in about 650 years. This sort of increase is not only theoretically possible, it is happening before our very eyes. It may be of interest to note that even at our present population level, Victorians would be well within seeing distance of their nearest neighbours if they were distributed evenly over the State. In less than 35 years they would be within shouting distance; in 280 years within talking distance and in 500 years within touching distance. We must hope that something will happen, preferably by design, to curtail our breeding behaviour long before our numbers start to saturate the landscape. The means of solving the over-population threat are, after all, fairly clear. However, we will encounter another serious problem and one for which the solution is not nearly so obvious, long before we are standing even within arm's length of one another and this will be brought about by the increasing rate at which man is using his natural resources and the very rapidly increasing total demand. The problem is related to economic growth and the driving forces behind it. We are living in an increasingly affluent society and the material goals many of us seek are characterized by the popular advertising phrases such as "bigger and better", "more powerful", "more spacious", "more 12 The Yarra river, 1970. Nearly extinct in an environment of economic development and high-density human population.

The Ovens river, 1970. Full of life (non-human) and interest in a nearly-natural setting.

13 luxurious", etc. Important measures of social status are ownership of land, homes, appliances, cars and especially the size and number of these items. As we become more affluent, the individual's share of resources increases. It is of particular interest to compare the energy used by modern man with that of primitive man. Before the discovery of fire the energy requirements of our ancestors amounted to their daily food intake and this was about equal to the energy used by burning a 100 watt lamp for one day. The average westernized man needs 10,000 watts per day and his needs are growing. At the present rate of increase it is estimated that every square yard of the U.S.A. will be a power station within 200 years. In the so-called advanced countries, there is a highly disproportionate use of resources in relation to world population. For example, the U.S.A., with 2 per cent. of the population of the world, uses over 50 per cent. of the world's resources and contributes more than 30 per cent. of the world's atmospheric wastes. Natural resources should not be available only to the finders or to those who can afford to buy them but should be the heritage of mankind. The automobile is a classic example of the tail wagging the dog in terms of our energy and resource-use budget and of abuse to the environ­ ment. In country areas, the problem it creates is not acute as yet, but in cities it is chronic and there are grounds for believing that the pattern of growth in urban areas and indeed our way of life is dominated by the automobile. The basic need for transportation seems to have been lost sight of completely and the expenditure of huge sums of money in pro­ viding car access to and from cities and parking areas therein, continues. Immense, sweeping arches of concrete which carry these brightly coloured, thinly-populated and energy-wasteful machines in and out of our cities, and which are progressively blotting out the sky in some areas have been described as objects of great beauty and indeed they may be in one sense. They are primarily symbols of status and secondarily an extraordinarily cumbersome and inefficient means of city transportation, generating massive engineering and environmental problems as they increase in numbers. It seems likely that the solution to man's energy requirements will come from the atom. There are technical problems yet to be solved in providing cheap energy from this source and not the least of these is the safe disposal of wastes. Energy from this source seems, at least in principle, to be far more desirable than from fossil fuels. It has been estimated authoritatively that the world's supply of coal will be exhausted in Jess than 500 years and our available petroleum and natural gas will be used up within 50 years. The process of natural formation of these fuels took about 600 million years. Atomic energy also offers some prospects of release from our bondage to high dams which are useful for power generation but also produce significant environmental changes. If population increase and economic development proceed unchecked, the qualities of our present environment are doomed. Serious environ­ mental changes have already taken place. For example, the freshwater environment in Victoria has been changed by the building of large dams, by river improvement works and by other factors. The immediate benefits have been an increase in water available for irrigation and power genera­ tion, and improvement in flood control and the provision of more areas for recreational activities such as boating, swimming and fishing. More­ over, most non-indigenous species of fish have done very well in the new environments that have been created and the trouts provide excellent recreational angling. Unfortunately, the new aquatic environment is not 14 BUSH GEAR PTY. LTD.

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15 well-suited to our native fish and several species are probably threatened with extinction, for some of the features of the old environment to which they were well-adapted have gone. Since the settlement of Australia by white people and the description of the animals it contained, at least five species of marsupials have disappeared and it has been suggested that 34 others are threatened with extinction. One of our very beautiful birds, the Helmeted Honeyeater, is now to be found in one small area of Victoria only, and the total population is perhaps some 300 individuals. The animals that have dis­ appeared and those that are threatened were and are victims of environ­ mental destruction. The particular type of habitat on which they depend for their existence is being eliminated. These changes set a clear pattern for the future and if our population and affluence increase unchecked, the best we can hope for in the long run in the way of animals and plants is perhaps artificially maintained populations of relatively few species in restricted areas. The living things concerned would probably be supported exclusively by artificial propa­ gation and nursery culture. One must wonder whether the preservation of life (other than our own) in this way would be of any real value to man. The animals would become curiosities, isolated both in time and space. Full appreciation of an animal or plant is not possible unless it is seen in a natural situation which allows perception and understanding of its interdependence on other living things, and of its specific habitat requirements. If wildlife and plant communities are to play a significant role in the life of man, large tracts of land must be set aside and main­ tained under natural conditions for this purpose. A final question which needs some comment is the significance of wildlife and plant communities in the life of man. Accepting that man must actually be present in a natural area to receive full benefit from it, there are two aspects of the situation I would like to comment on. The first is the value of his renewed acquaintance with nature and the second is the effect of being, at least temporarily, out of touch and with any luck, out of sight and sound of his nearest neighbours. The effects of crowding on laboratory animals has been studied and it results in confusion and quite radical changes in behaviour patterns. Just how far the results of this type of work can be applied to man is not known, but judging from observations that I am sure most of us have made of the behaviour of people crowded together for a period (for example, in city traffic), it clearly must have some application. On the matter of the value of nature itself to man, it has already been accepted by many people that we do require a level of recourse to nature in order to live a full and well-balanced existence. There are, after all, very clear lessons for man in studying an animal in its own environment. We see that if the number of animals out-strips resources the population crashes and may be subject to disease and complete disruption of social behaviour. Also, we may see a complex interrelation­ ship between different sorts of animals and a definite dependence of one species upon several others for its well-being. There are, of course, many other benefits from communing with nature and the full range of ways in which these can be of help to man is not yet known. In the meantime, we are to some extent sailing in the dark and if we delay too long in adjusting our population to our resources there may be little of nature left for man to turn to. It also seems clear that we should think seriously of turning towards new standards of affluence which are not so dependent on economic development. 16 Dependable, comfortable in all conditions. Little Beava packs

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17 SHOALHAVEN GORGE

• Robertson MINNAMURRA FALLS RESERVE

00 THE GREAT GORGE

by F. W. Halls

In the Southern Highlands region of a hundred miles south of Sydney and a few miles east of Marulan is the Tallong Bend of the Shoalhaven River. The main gorge of the Shoalhaven extends from the point where Bungonia Creek joins the Shoalhaven, thence downstream past Tallong Bend and the King Pin to Kangaroo River; a distance of fifteen to twenty miles as the crow flies, but at least two-dozen miles along the river. This is only part of the larger Shoalhaven Gorge complex which extends from Upper Kangaroo Valley south to The Block­ up. Noted Australian geographer the late Griffiths Taylor has referred to the Tallong Bend region of the Shoalhaven Gorge as the Great Gorge. From the verdant "English farm country" atmosphere of Sutton Forest and the apple orchards of Wingello, it is a far cry to the gouged-out uplifted peneplain of the Shoalhaven Gorge tract south-east of Tallong Bend. At the Tallong Bend interesting geological features may be observed. First of all there is famous Tallong Bend itself, the great "boathook bend" of the Shoalhaven where an act of geological river piracy took place; the capture of the upper Wollondilly watershed by waters of the lower Shoalhaven. According to various geologists there is evidence that a present day mountain on the divide between the and Barber's Creek was once deep in the Wollondilly Valley, but during a recent geological period has been upthrust I ,600 feet. This caused the present day Shoalhaven (which was previously the Wollondilly) to change from a north flowing course to eastwards flowing at Tallong Bend. At the same time Barber's Creek in the Wollondilly trough reversed its direction of flow by draining southwards into the Shoalhaven. The deep juvenile gorge of Barber's Creek shows active headward ·erosion towards the mature Wollondilly watershed. Just north of the "boathook bend" there is the sharply defined yet intensely crumpled strata of the Razorback, a folded spur between Barber's Creek and the Shoalhaven, probably a result of the geological upheaval. From the high ridges of Long Point and the dominant King Pin 1,600 feet above Tallong Bend there are glorious views of the exposed Razorback, spectacular Barber's Creek Gorge, and the main river shim­ mering far below as it changes course around the "great boathook." The ever narrowing foot track dives left around the side of King Pin following the Razorback folds. There are many fine views on the way down to Badgerys Crossing, the old settlement on the river flats. A couple of miles east of Long Point across the depths of Devil's Hollow, at the end of a road south from Tallong, Badgery's Lookout (The Lookover) is situated on a couple of flat rocky cliff promontories. This affords grand views east and west along cliffy confines of the Great Gorge. The river far below is a series of sandbanks alternating with deep rockbound pools, rippling rapids and dark green River Oaks growing along the banks. About four miles distant south-east, a sharp yellowish rock pinnacle stands high above the purple depths where the cliffy ravine of Tallawal Creek joins the main river. 19 After seeing the gorge from several viewpoints on the cliff line south­ east of Long Point and studying the Yalwal map, I formed the opinion that the best view in the whole district would probably be seen from the cliff-top promontory (Torulosa Point- so called because of the large number of forest oaks (Casuarina torulosa) growing above the cliff-edge directly opposite the gorge of Tallawal Creek). So following this hunch we wandered south along a rough bush track a couple of miles west of Caoura. Finding ourselves at the cliff-edge on the wrong side of an inter­ vening cul-de-sac we negotiated the deep gully head through dry open forest, then continued wandering south-west towards the rocky cliff promontory. It was good bushwalking through the dry groves of whisper­ ing Forest Oaks towards the somewhat dangerous cliff-edges, hazardous because of the loose nature of the rocky terrain. We sat on the rocky promontory facing westwards along the river rippling 1,800 feet below. This was one of those moments of sheer enchantment when all nature seems in complete harmony. As fitful spring sunshine bathed the scene, the Shoalhaven shimmered far below in the depths, soft blue shades crept along the rocky ravine outlining each abrupt spur and buttress, while a light breeze sighed through the shady Forest Oaks. It was indeed a Great Gorge. Although less than two miles from a good gravel road here we seemed far removed from the world's turmoil. As we gazed six miles along the river course towards the distant King Pin there was no sign of yellow dust floating in the air as is so often seen from some of the lookouts further north-west. West of the "boathook" lies the high limestone plateau of Marulan and Bungonia, where cement companies have levelled the rounded hills to a wide dusty orange-yellow flat, a mute warning of what is likely to happen if quarrying should ever commence in the Colong Mountains in the Kanangra-Boyd National Park. I would like to tell you of Bungonia Gorge, one of the most famous in Australia; notable for the orange, gold and grey vertical walls through the mezzanine level below Bungonia Lookdown. It is a knife sharp slot, carved by Bungonia Creek, through the middle level between the creek's River Oaks and grass skirted Blackboys on The Lookdown. The over­ hanging thousand foot limestone wall of Bungonia Gorge presents quite a stern challenge to rock climbers of great ability and experience. A map printed in an historical volume refers to the ravine as the Great Canyon. It is nowhere near as great now since the quarrying operations of cement companies based on Marulan have levelled the plateau hilltops in the vicinity of Mt. Frome. Noted also for its four or five dozen caves and its lookdown it is aptly named for its deep views on this photogenic head of the Shoalhaven below. Unlike typical limestone caves which enter hillsides as slightly sloping tunnels, these plunge down as shafts from the bottom of limestone sink holes. These caves are a challenge to experienced speleologists but too dangerous for development as a tourist attraction. If you wish to really enjoy a visit to Bungonia Gorge, arrange to camp overnight at Adam's Lookout so that you can watch the sun set and rise over the multi-coloured gorge. Also descend into the chasm along the route by the side of the Sawtooth, but take great care over the rocks as it is often quite treacherous. Below Adam's Lookout, Bungonia Creek flows nor-nor-east through a deep gorge. Then it is joined by Jerarra Creek before turning a sharp corner towards the south-east, just prior to entry into the main section of the magnificent grey-gold chasm of Bungonia Gorge. 20 With the instant-loading Kodak lnstamatic camera, picture-taking's as simple as pressing a button. Just drop in the film cartridge, aim and shoot. And you can take the hardy go­ anywhere Kodak ln stamatic cameras anywhere. There's a camera just right for you , all ready to take beautiful color pictures, and all reasonably priced at Kodak dealers everywhere.

KODAK (Australasia) PTY. LTO. Branches in all States. K61 / 29 1t The grass skirts of the black boys rustle drily in the fitful breeze, while from far below in sylvan glades beneath Blue Gums on Adam's Lookout lyrebirds sing melodiously. What a contrast down there to the dry rubbly spurs of the limestone plateau! Weary stringybarks lean over the stony track while sad casuarinas moan softly in the evening breeze. Every now and then can be heard the distant roar of Jerarra Creek Falls surging in a maelstrom of white waters into the grey depths of Bungonia Creek. This then is the atmos­ phere on a warm spring evening on the dry limestone ridge of Adam's Lookout as we watch purple sunset shades descend through Bungonia's vertical slot. 1 ust off to the east of our stony vantage point there is the Sawtooth, a serrated arete of grey limestone plunging steeply towards the dark fringe of River Oaks bordering Bungonia Creek. During the last few years a new and somewhat arduous recreation has been added to the list of outdoor activities; that of canyoneering. This sport, a cross between rock climbing, caving and bushwalking, very often contains quite a large measure of danger. The purpose of the exercise is to follow a tumbling creek down through a narrow ravine to the valley floor below, a recreation somewhat more popular in N.S.W. because there are numerous canyons through the sandstone plateaux; canyons such as Thunder Canyon and Hay Creek Canyon in the Blue Mountains; Jerarra Creek Gorge, Bungonia Gorge, Southern Highlands canyons and The Block Up, the vertical walled Shoalhaven canyon so notable among the bushwalking fraternity. The gorge of Bundanoon Creek, a dozen miles long varying in depth from 500 feet to 1,400 feet, is one of the main tributary ravines of the Shoalhaven Gorge complex. It is located a couple of miles south of the Southern Tablelands town of Bundanoon. During October the Bundanoon cliff edge rock gardens are a magnifi­ cent blaze of colour. Poor sandstone ground or cracks between stone slabs provides a seed bed for flowering plants that is often difficult to surpass. Even when the weather is poor and the "Bundanoon Mist" covers the plateau as so often happens, October on the Southern Highlands is well worth while, even if only for the sheer glory of seeing rock gardens hidden among sandstone slabs. The cliff edge terrace gardens are the habitat of numerous showy plants such as the Dusky Coral Pea, a deep red pea plant twining over tall shrubs. This is very prevalent in the Fairy Bower vicinity. Some of the best of the rock terrace plants are the glowing Golden Pea, the prostrate scarlet pea blooms of Running Postman, the showy gold of Guinea Flowers, blue Love Creeper, Purple Coral Pea, and magenta Pyramid Flowers. The rough twisting limbs and large flower cobs of "Old Man" Banksia contrast with the old gold shades of Rusty Pomaderris and the dusty pink of honeyed Pink Calytrix. But best of all by cliffside slabs and ledges is the delicate waxy pink of Pinnate Boronia, a glorious show of bloom which vies with thousands of salmon coloured or sky-blue Sun Orchids blooming freely on warm spring days. North-east of Bundanoon on the far side of verdant Kangaroo Valley are the upthrust volcanic mountains of the Cambewarra Range, "Moun­ tains of Fire" to the Parronrah aborigines. Early pioneer timber-cutters eagerly sought the highly prized Red Cedar in this area of rain forest, searching through the almost impenetrable "brush tangle" for these valuable trees. Alas, there is very little of this living timber left now. Volcanic slopes covered with isolated samples of rain forest may still be seen in the uplands of Bellawongarah Mountain and Good Dog Mountain. 22 SLEEP WARM WAKE UP REFRESHED

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23 I maintain that these National Parks contain most of the best unspoilt bushland and the Southern Highlands around the Great Gorge are well endowed with wilderness National Parks. The present day name of (45 ,380 acres) seems somewhat insipid compared with the older title of Morton Primitive Reserve. Primitive seems the operative word. The primeval "brush country" below overhung dripping sandstone cliffs, the "Barren Grounds," the turbu­ ent course of Yarrunga Creek, and some forty miles of river frontage are all part of a wilderness containing abundant bird and animal life.

* * * * Other neighbouring National Parks in the Southern Highlands are: The "Barren Grounds" Nature Reserve of 4,390 acres is situated on plateau heathlands above Kangaroo Valley. Minnamurra Falls Reserve, contammg a precipitous and beautiful waterfall on Minnamurra Creek, is situated in a fine sample of rain forest. Barangary State Park of I ,970 acres reserves the Burrawang Creek Gorge and beautiful Belmore Falls. Adjoining the Morton Primitive Reserve on the western banks of Bundanoon Creek is Bundanoon State Park, a reserve of 3,300 acres; with its numerous cliff edge lookouts affording fine views of Bundanoon Creek Gorge.

BOOKS FOR BUSHWALKERS THE ENVIRONMENTAL HANDBOOK, edited by Garrett De Bell. Ballantyne Books. Price $1.30. Reviewed by Michael Griffin "It is fair to say that most people who anguish over the population problem are trying to find a way to avoid the evils of overpopulation without relinquishing any of the privileges they now enjoy. They think that farming the seas or developing new strains of wheat will solve the problem- technologically." 24 The quotation is an important one, because it mirrors the myth that the contributors of this book are fighting against- the notion that today's environmental problems can be overcome through the technological ad­ vancement, without the necessity of curbing any of the individual's freedom of action in his relationships with the environment. The quotation is also important because it focuses on the underlying cause of these problems­ the population density. The reader of the book must soon realize that environmental problems are neither unconnected phenomena nor merely concerned with pollution in the sense of waste disposal. It is implied more than once that any attempt to tackle such problems without giving thought to their common origin is doomed to failure. Ultimately, a world where the birth rate consistently exceeds the death rate, and to an ever increasing extent, is of necessity going to produce all manner of pollutions which are incapable of being sufficiently controlled. We are now engaged in a fight for our survival, and will have to agree to restrictions on the way we treat our common environment. We may have to give up many things if the world is to be saved. Most importantly, we must abandon the right to breed freely, for in that direction lies certain ruin. Reading through this book, our insanity becomes obvious, "a recent scientific analysis of New York City's atmosphere concluded that a New Yorker on the street took into his lungs the equivalent in toxic materials of 38 cigarettes a day." The U.S. pesticide industry is practically a three­ billion-dollar-a-year concern. The ground is being carpeted with increasingly more toxic poisons. Adverse genetic effects and upsetting of food chains are distinct possibilities. The internal combustion engine is choking the atmosphere with a wide range of potentially disastrous pollutants. Even with a safer engine, the automobile would still be robbing us of our land, shattering our peace and quiet, and affording only limited human inter­ action which tends to be aggressive and disastrous anyway. It also creates a massive disposal problem, almost one million broken down autos are abandoned each year in the U.S. The need to recycle our waste is obvious- not just auto bodies, but paper, aluminium cans, glass containers, etc. The world's material resources are limited and we are committing suicide if we throw them away after use. The new economy will need to include the cost to the community of recycling or disposal in the price of an article, so that we remove the incentive to industries to follow practices which save them money in the short run but produce environmental destruction in the long run. This handbook can be thoroughly recommended for its wide ranging approach, its comprehensive and detailed discussions, and its readability. It covers the historical roots of our ecological crisis, the land, the sea, pesticides, transport wilderness, education, energy use, economy, architec­ ture, overpopulation, advertising, recycling and a host of other topics. It outlines a political platform, and reminds us that the saving of the environ­ ment is a gigantic political issue. Finally, it tells us what we can do, individually and as groups, about the many problems. The book is American, but the problems are not limited to that country. We are uncomfortably close behind, and must take heed now. 25 FIRE IN THE FOREST ENVIROMENT

by R. Johnson

Fire has had a strong impact on the quality of Victorian bushwalking. In a State with some of the most beautiful and rugged country in Aus­ tralia there is an almost complete absence of wilderness. Nowhere in Victoria is there the potential for large tracts of scenic unroaded country to be set aside as National Parks or Reserves as in other States. There is no point in the Eastern Ranges more than 3 miles from a road or fire access track. The exception to this rule is Mt. Bogong, which struggles towards 3t miles. It is fire which has generated the need for roads. Following the holocaust of the 1939 bushfires which destroyed large areas of high quality forest and exacted a heavy death toll, there were immediate efforts to improve the administration and techniques of fire prevention and control. Despite these moves disastrous fires still occurred. In the past the answer has been to even further extend the firetrail network, which already snakes along the spine of almost every ridge system in the State, alienating walkers from the intimacy of passing through untracked country. Recently a new technique has been developed which offers an altern­ ative to the previous need for complete road access. This is generally summarised in the term "fuel reduction" or "prescribed burning." Foresters have been using the technique now for several years in Western Australia with much success and there is every indication that it will be employed in the Eastern States on a very wide scale. Questions we - as bushwalkers should ask ourselves:

-does it reduce the inherent variety of the country we walk in?

- does it alter these areas permanently for the worse?

-does it improve the conditions for bushwalkers?

-does it offer means of limiting the extension of our road system?

Any attempt to answer these questions must be preceded by some appreciation of the role that fire plays in the Australian environment.

The first and most important point in any consideration of this prob­ lem is that fire is native to the Victorian bush. The most common eucalypts have adapted to resist fire in many ways, and following the ravages of a severe wildfire will sprout again in several years to a leafy splendour, while a neighbouring pine plantation remains a drab cemetery of dead sticks. Eucalypts resist fire through three major mechanisms. One is a thick heat resistant bark which protects the active and delicate cambium beneath. Another is the species' ability to produce new active shoots from dormant epicormic buds buried in the trunk and large branches. Last, they possess lignotubers, which are underground swellings capable of sprouting new shoots and of supplying food materials to the tree in its long slow recovery from the heat shock of wildfire. 26 Even the fire-sensitive Mountain Ash needs flame for its survival. Without it the ash stands would smother in a tangle of semi-tropical rain forest. It is fire which destroys trees and brush alike, but which also releases the fire-hardy seeds to germinate in the active smoking soils. Leadbeater's possum survives by eating the growing shoots of the immature ash. This is a case of a tree and an animal which have only survived because of the recurrence of fire in Victoria over millions of years. The second point is that it is impossible to keep fire permanently out of an area in the absence of positive management. Each year the heavy leaf fall from the eucalypts accumulates on the forest floor to form an unignited hearth of unburnt fuel just waiting for that chance improvident act of man or nature. It has been estimated that leaf fall results in about -l--1 ton of fuel per acre each year, and that at a level of I 0 tons of fuel per acre, hopes of controlling a fire are very low under dry hot windy conditions. The trees themselves invite ignition, carrying up to 2-3 per cent. eucalyptus oil in their leaves, and may be seen to explode into flame in the right circumstances. It is not even sufficient to keep that sporadic pyromaniac, European man, out of the environment. Lightning strikes have been estimated to cause from 5-33 per cent of all bushfires. It is difficult enough to restrict man- it is impossible to control the elements. The third point is that European man's entry into this fire-loving environment has brought about a change in the character of bushfires. Diligent study of the manuals of the early explorers and mariners has indicated the regular sighting of bushfires around the Australian coast and in Australian forests. There is little doubt now that many of them were deliberately lit by Aborigines, sometimes to generate fresh green pick for grazing game animals. The difference appears to arise in the way the native peoples used fire. They tended to light their fires during the spring and autumn, generating only a low flame height and cleaning, without damag­ ing, the forest stand. Our civilisation changed this. Uninformed burning off at the wrong times has resulted in severe damage. Further, efforts to eliminate fire completely have resulted in a situation where explosive fuel loads are generated. A fire under these conditions becomes extremely destructive. This last point brings us to the crux of our problem. What conditions are we trying to emulate in the application of our fire control techniques? Are we trying to eliminate fire altogether? We have already seen this to be an impossible task on a large scale because of our environmental conditions. Are we trying to return to the situation that existed before the white man arrived? This also seems an insubstantial argument as we know that the Aborigines employed fire to control their environment. We simply have no knowledge of what the conditions were like prior to their arrival. To the conservationist, the criteria would appear to be fairly simple. The stability of any ecosystem depends on the diversity of life within it. Anything which assists that diversity must assist the stability of the system. Conversely anything which detracts from the elements which go to make up that system must weaken its resistance to external elements, in the form of weather, weeds and foreign animals. To this there would seem only one exception -where an area was an isolated pocket which formed the habitat of a rare faunal or floral species. Under these conditions, a less diverse but more favourable system to this species may be sustained. Examples of such forms of fire management are the firing of the Scottish 27 moors to sustain the red grouse as a game bird, and the firing of the Pine Barrens in the Southern States of the U.S.A. to sustain populations of the bob-white quail, another popular game bird. We have now approached the stage of understanding where we can use fire to positively influence the ecology of the area. Let us take some simple examples. In the absence of fire schlerophyllous forests will tend to develop a dense scrubby understorey- such a habitat favours black wallabies. However fire opens up the forest floor and allows grasses to develop, thereby encouraging grey kangaroo populations. One can favour the one species over the other in a particular area by the judicious and intelligent use of fire. Again, an uncommon Australian bird, the ground parrot of the heathlands, thrives in vegetation less than 2 feet high. On bare ground it finds itself and its nestlings exposed to predators. In thicker brush, conditions do not appear to favour its search for food. Only the medium of fire can provide the means of re-establishing the conditions best suited to its survival. A similar case is found in colonies of New Holland Mice at Port Stephens in N.S.W. The mice survive best on the sandy scrubs swept by fire only a few years previously. Again, the lyre­ bird favours burnt areas, as fire destroys wiregrass which otherwise tends to invade and spoil the bird's habitat. Fire also encourages the growth of Acacia through the release and germination of seeds, and this in turn encourages the bronzewing pigeon, which eats the seeds. There are similar examples of Australian birds and animals which depend for their very existence on the re-establishment of semi-stable environments through the agency of fire. The point is then clearly made. Not only is fire a part of the Australian environment, but much of its vegetation and animal life is dependent on fire for its continued survival. Here of course we are talking of the survival of species, and not of individuals. What function has prescribed burning in this natural scheme? How is it different from the old style burning-off procedures in use by station­ owners for over a century? Apart from some modern technology, there is little difference in the tools employed, fire is common to both. However, in prescribed burning a very careful scientific appraisal of the area and the prevailing conditions is adopted. A crude analogy may be made between a child who attacks a new car with a panelbeater's hammer, and the trained craftsman who resurrects the mangled body to a smoothly con­ toured shape again with the same tool. Too often in the past a careless station-owner has burned a firebreak around his property in bad conditions resulting in the destruction of thousands of acres of Crown Land or State Forest. The bulk of prescribed burning in State Forests is now carried out aerially, usually in spring or autumn when the ground litter is dry and conditions cool to warm, and, most importantly, when wind conditions are favourable. Incendiary capsules are dropped from aircraft over a grid pattern, creating numerous spot fires which radiate out in circles to intersect and form a slow moving low-intensity flame front. To decrease severity the pattern is organised so that the fire burns downwards rather than up the ridges. It is claimed that in a properly organised burn, the wet dank corners of the forest are left untouched to provide sources for the propagation of seeds. 28 1972 ... 2000. 2100 . . . 2200 .. . For today ... and the centuries ahead

THE 5-POINT FORESTS MULTIPLE USE PLAN

A plan based on scientific forests management .. , ensuring that our forests continue to contribute towards man's overall survival and to his individual zest for I iving. The multiple use plan protects the five critical forest values:

WATER WOOD WILDLIFE RECREATION FORAGE

Our State Forests provide abundant leisure enjoyment ... only one of the five big values. Please help us by cherishing all five values when you are enjoying the forests

FORESTS COMMISSION, VICTORIA 1!1 On extremely dissected country, ground crews are necessary to aug­ ment the aerial work. The technique was designed for the gently undulat­ ing J arrah forests of Western Australia and its success as a fire control measure has prompted its wide application in the East, where the topog­ raphy is much more rugged. The inaccessibility of many of the Victorian forest areas and the steepness of the hills has prompted a number of people to ask whether the technique can be used with the same degree of success as in the West. Low cost is the great advantage in the use of aerial incendiaries. With charges at two cents per acre per annum, the procedure offers many economies over older methods. In the West, in excess of one million acres are burnt annually. It is planned to treat about three-quarters of a million acres each year in both N.S.W. and Victoria. What success has been achieved with control burning? According to foresters, the success is considerable. Widely quoted is the 1968 case of 25,000 acres of forest near Bega aerially burnt about 8 months prior to the advance of a wildfire through adjacent country. The fire died at the perimeter of the control burn with no damage to the forest, though the surrounding countryside was devastated. Despite this marked success such benefits could not always be anticipated. First, it is not intended to remove all ground litter, but merely to reduce it to an acceptable level. Complete removal encourages soil erosion and decreases microbial actions in the floor litterI soil level necessary for full forest health. Also burning is usually designed on a 4-5 year cycle, which means that a wildfire at the fourth year would find a reasonable quantity of litter on which to feed. As foresters point out, it is not claimed that prescribed burning will eliminate wildfires, but only that it will lessen their intensity to the stage where they can be effectively fought and contained by ground crews. Prescribed burning is not unfortunately, a panacea for all ills. Six acres of bushland in a North Sydney suburb, known as Ashton Park, was control burnt in 1965 under technically ideal conditions. Rain preceded the burn, which was mild, and followed the burn. Although adult trees were unaffected, saplings suffered a setback in development and few seedlings appeared. Native shrubs and herbs were adversely affected and only a few species had flowered a full 22 months after the burn. Weed infestation following the burn was phenomenal. The net effect was undoubtedly a flop. In the West, problems have been caused by too frequent burning of certain shrubs. The parrot bush shrivels and disappears if burnt at intervals of less than 5 years, leaving bare the limestone ridges on which it grows. Pollen producing Leucopogen and Calathamnus shrubs also disappear if burnt repeatedly. These bushes are valuable for the flavour given to honey produced from their pollen, and their loss is keenly felt by beekeepers. Having briefly explored the situation, we are still faced with serious problems. We know that fire is an inherent part of the Australian environ­ ment, and that plants and animals have come to depend on fire for their natural regeneration. We have seen that fire can only be excluded from the environment at our peril, with a massively destructive wildfire the usual outcome. Prescribed burning, which reduces the quantity of forest floor litter with low intensity flame would appear to be a neat solution, especially in view of its economical application. However we know that certain plants may wither and disappear under the influence of too frequent cycles, which may be set by the annual load of leaf litter. 30 See Victoria First This Holiday State has the best to offer in any of its varied tourist regions. For all information and Rail, Road, Sea and Air Bookings: VICTOUR The Victorian Government Tourist Bureau, 272 Collins Street, Melbourne. TELEPHONE: 63 0202 SPECIALISTS IN GROUP TRAVEL

31 At this point differences of outlook begin to appear. The forester is not so necessarily concerned with the health of the total forest as he is with the health of the existing commercial timber species. The conser­ vationist is concerned with the total health of the forest, and as we out­ lined earlier, this may be measured by diversity of species. To preserve this diversity in the community it is desirable to sustain areas of different types in different stages of a burning cycle. Thus some areas may be burnt every five years, others every ten years and within these areas there will be smaller zones, some burnt last year, some burnt three years before, and some five years before. It seems important to accept the need for fuel reduc­ tion to eliminate the intensely destructive wildfire. It may be necessary to protect the viability of these mosaic burn patterns by surrounding the whole area with a control burnt perimeter many chains in width. The difficulties here are that such a scheme is intensive of specialist labour, and would require ground crews, losing much of the economy presented by aerial incendiaries. There is little doubt that in this State there is room for both practices to run side by side for some years until a pattern of effects begins to emerge. The great danger is that the simplicity, and economy of aerial ignition will prove too great a bait to resist for a funds-starved Govern­ ment authority, and that huge areas will be brought under a prescribed burning routine using this technique without adequate knowledge of its eventual effects. There is the further danger that too rapid a dissemina­ tion of the technique may result in damage through inexperienced and semi-trained operators. One should not shrink from the use of new and exciting techniques, but care must be exercised. We must become aware of side effects and unrecognized problems on the small scale rather than on the large scale when the damage may be permanent. •

"Better a little fire to warm us than a great one to burn us." -16th century proverb . • MOUNTAIN MUSTER

In April, 1971, a walking track was cleared into Lake Tarli Karng by this club in conjunction with the Ben Cruachan Club. The track starts at the intersection of the Riggall's Spur Track and the Sentinels Track. It is signposted and named the Gilleo Memorial Track and follows the spur south-west towards the lake with much zig-zagging near the bottom, and comes out on the lake just east of Nightingale Creek. This track should now provide a good circuit trip to the lake. 32 "IN THE MOROKA GORGE" Photo by John Siseman.

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34 On the Baw Baw Plateau the Baw Baw Committee have re-marked the main track between Mount Whitelaw and Mount Erica. It is planned at a later stage to do a more efficient job as this is only a temporary measure. It is also planned to erect two or three huts on the plateau, possibly on the original hut sites; mainly for the use of skiers, but the huts will be open to walkers as well. Another track which is known to have been cleared is the old track from Jamieson Hut to Bluff Saddle. The track between the Nobs and Mt. Donna Buang was cleared last year (1970) by the Federation of Victorian Walking Clubs. Note should be taken that the Alpine Trail is now to be known as the Alpine Track. One section is known as the Howqua River Mining Track. In 1970 part of this was cleared by the F.V.W.C. and has since been continued by the Forests Commission and extended to Spur. Also cleared was the track between Mount Speculation and and is now marked all the way to Barry Saddle. The Forests Commission is working on a track up Four Mile Spur to and then down the other side via the old Mirimbah track. It is now possible to go from the saddle between The Viking and The Razor to the Buffalo River, West Branch, along a marked track leading to a new jeep track which then connects up with the main four-wheel-drive track. A new track has been marked to from Barnewell Plains; now the Forests Commission is contemplating opening up Mount Torbreck as a ski resort; let us hope not ! The Ministry of Tourism is looking into the question as to which snow-pole lines across the can be regarded as the most indispensable. Once located and defined the chosen lines will be maintained for use in all weather conditions. Recently a meeting was held by the above ministry together with other interested bodies, resulting in a sub-committee being formed, and with further discussion on the matter to take place at a later date. The Federation of Victorian Walking Clubs has been active in the past year compiling detailed information on all huts in walking areas throughout Victoria, and, once this is completed, would-be visitors to any particular hut should be able to gain accurate information on it beforehand. In New South Wales a Kosciusko Huts Association has been formed to look into all aspects of huts in the Kosciusko National Park. Once fully constituted it is planned that there will be a fee scale for the use of the huts so that they can be maintained to give adequate shelter at all times. An introduction to bushcraft is now included among the varied activities of the Council of Adult Education. A bushcraft weekend was held at Mount Kitchener House, Marysville during November. Tutors are Messrs. Graham Mascas and 'Rob' Steele, both very active bushwalkers. The course concentrates on practical aspects of camping and walking holidays in the bush, such as map-reading, equipment, safety precautions and planning. 35 A STROLL IN NEPAL

by Dave Oldfield

"Wakey-Wakey" the voice of our leader Bruce Davis filters through the snug blue warmth of my sleeping bag and I realise that another day has begun on our trek through the mountains of Nepal in the region of Annapurna. Outside the tent a bowl of hot water steams under the clear sky which is showing a lightening in the east although by now it must be about half past six. Muffled noises come from the other tents containing the rest of our fifteen strong party. The cry of "Tea up" soon brings them all out for the early morning cuppa and bikkies and now here comes little Gadzan with a pot of porridge almost as big as himself. He takes great pleasure in dishing it out into bowls and looks genuinely hurt when his offer of "more porridge" is refused. Now we bundle up all our gear into kit bags, place them in a communal pile to be taken on by the porters, then carrying only a day pack containing a camera and little else we wander off down the track under the watchful eye of our sherpas. There's no sense of urgency or rush. As we pass small villages we see women washing at the well or cleaning pots and pans, and small children being carried on the backs of older ones. The kids all seem cheerful; did we really read that fortv per cent don't live to be fifteen; perhaps this primitive life without all the cares of civilisation is not the ideal after all. Sounds like there's a mule train approaching around the next corner, its a good job they wear bells round their necks. Let's get up the bank out of their way. Who knows what they carry in the sacks on their backs; that one looks like potatoes, another looks like boxes of soap and cigarettes. One thing is certain about Nepal, flat ground for the track just doesn't exist, there's another hill ahead. We must be climbing at least two thousand feet a day and probably descending the same amount. The map says we are at eight thousand feet at the moment. That looks like a group of our porters having a breather at the top of the hill. The women. called Sherpanis, carry just as much as the men and the whole load supported by a headband around their forehead. It's amazing the way they chatter happily to each other and even more amazing the way they knit as they speed away along the track. They certainly earn their eighty-five cents a day and they have to find their own food on top of that. There's a welcome sight ahead in a dry rice paddy, our cook and his helpers have set up the kitchen, the fire's going and water is being carried from a nearby stream. A good time to write up diaries and laze in the sun while lunch is prepared. Well after we've eaten our fill of omelette, chapatties, honey, mar­ malade, etc., there's the inevitable post-lunch hill to climb, it looks as if this one could take all afternoon especially as every turn reveals more of the surrounding snow capped peaks towering above us. There's another village, that must be corn drying in the sun and women are sitting outside their houses spinning goat-hair and weaving it into rough cloth. Our sherpas always seem to be buying eggs in the villages, at ten cents for two, but today they're buying live chickens as well, they'll be good for dinner tonight. The focal point of the villages seem to be the schools, 36 Top: Rest Station. Below: Sherpanis and Porter.

37 often with only one or two teachers whose knowledge of English is generally good. Our supply of balloons go down well with the kids and wreck all concentration on the lessons. How can you describe the scenery all around without going into worn out cliches? Best not to try but just take it all in and marvel. Well that's the afternoon passed pleasantly and there's our camp site with the tents already being erected by the sherpas and in the background the cooking fire sending its smoke skywards. Dinner appears about five thirty just as it's getting dark and it's quite chilly away from the fire. There's plenty of good solid food on the plate as usual, they just don't know the meaning of a small helping. That chicken tastes good! Tonight the porters and sherpanis show us some of their dances. By the light of a kero lamp they stand in a curve with linked arms, sing a strange chant and shuffle rhythmically back and forwards. Of course we join in and the rice-beer (chang) we had earlier helps us to get the mood quickly. Ah well! Time for bed again, it's too cold to stay up long and we can always read by the light of the candle in the tent. After twenty-six days of this idyllic existence, walking in some of the most magnificent scenery in the world you wonder if you can ever again put a pack on your back and carry your own gear around in Australia. It's all part of the feeling of unreality when you visit this Shangri-La kingdom of Nepal. Truly an experience never to be forgotten.

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39 ESKDALE SPUR TRACK

by Athol Schafer

The Eskdale Spur track follows the main ridge of the Kiewa/Mitta Mitta River divide from Tallangatta to , a distance of approximately seventy walking miles along forestry roads. It varies from graded gravel surfaces to very rough and overgrown jeep tracks. Late in 1969 a small party of Melbourne Bushwalkers investigated this route to the Bogong High Plains. Before going any further it should be said here that the walk is ideally suited for the autumn and springtime months rather than for the droughty heat of mid-summer. Tallangatta can be reached by taking the train to Wodonga, then either bus or taxi the intervening twenty-eight road miles. Our arrival was during the heat of the afternoon so we postponed climbing our first mountain until the cool of the evening. We took the opportunity of looking around the township which was resited and rebuilt following the drowning of its original site by Lake Hume. Tree-shaded picnic and camping grounds along the foreshore made it a pleasant place-except for the non-stop racket created by water-skiers. A little hilltop park in the centre of the town gave a good view of the southern shores of the lake and a prospect of our immediate route up the mountainside. When we got going every step upward brought a better view of Lake Hume below- an inland sea, sparkling under the late afternoon sunlight. Deeply eroded wheel ruts led up the cleared slope, dotted a bright purple by Salvation Jane, and then into a half-mile length of ridge-scrub opening into an upper valley, cleared and shallow, enclosed by a peri­ meter of tim be red hills. As we headed through the grass to the eastern ridge, a kangaroo hopped out into the open making for the valley stream, and, alas, to where we had just noted a shooting party was heading. The eastern ridge climbed steadily southwards, a direction to be followed more or less continuously for the next week. Daylight faded and we stooped to doss down beside the track until wakened by the early morning laugh of the kookaburra. How pleasant it was to walk through the forest in the fresh clean air of the morning, the first rays of the sun beginning to break through the glistening dew-wet foliage! By now the ridge had widened into a plateau where an absence of low scrub allowed long views between the trees, and the track wound this way and that until reaching a brackeny clearing. At the far end we slaked our thirst at a gully which held a good flow of water. Looking southwards we saw a nebulous, waving outline of a distant mountain wall- the mile high ramparts of Mount Bogong and the High Plains- perhaps forty miles away. Later the track swung eastwards until it was possible to scramble out along rocky outcrops overlooking the Mitta Mitta River valley and to as far as its junction with Bullhead Creek. This valley is mainly cleared country contrasting with the surrounding timbered hills. 40 ESKDALE SPUR TRACK

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All morning good views came our way from the eastern side of the ridge until we'd reached Mailman's Gap. From this high saddle the track climbed further to join a forestry road dropping to the heads of Glencoe Creek, a tributary of the Mitta Mitta River and our second night's destination. This locality was Lockhart Gap from where the gravelled Eskdale Spur Road commenced, at first wide and graded, but soon deteriorating, fortunately from a walking point of view, to jeep track status. In the morning a half-hour's climbing was needed to regain the height lost. This established a pattern followed for the next few days­ an evening descent to water and a morning's climb out. 41 A steady climb through the morning freshness of mountain gullies ringing noisily with bird song brought us almost to the top of the range. A powerline clearing making a great scar straight across the countryside allowed excellent views to the west over the Kiewa River valley to the Baranduda Range, and also southwards to the serrated outlines of the Buffalo Plateau. One thousand feet below could be seen the Sandy Creek settlement which is also the name of the stream draining the western fall of the main ridge. Two miles further on we came to the branch road leading down to the settlement. At the junction an earth tank held the only water we found along this dry stretch of ridge. Also from here the track crossed to the western fall, heading gullies and looping spurs from where Lake Hume was still visible, yet hardly diminished in extent by the increased distance of some fifteen miles. The mountains here were more crowded together, higher and heavily timbered, and forming the upper basin of Sandy Creek. Red and blue rosellas rocketed gaily by. The shade had been axed from the track leaving some very hot stretches to negotiate. It was with a sigh of relief that, after rounding the last tedious gully, we hauled ourselves up to the rangetop there to find an unexpected view of Mount Bogong that both excited and refreshed. Framed between two colourful old-man candlebark gums lay our highest mountain, its flanks and spurs illuminated brightly by a searching flood of light from the five o'clock sun, a magnificent sight, this little known northerly aspect of the great mountain. We crashed out through the forest debris to gaze over the valley depths of the aptly named Little Scrubby Creek for an even better view. Unfor­ tunately, this could not be enjoyed for long as we were faced with a descent of 1,500 feet to the flats of the creek for the evening camp. Three-quarters of an hour it had taken us to make that descent and more than twice as long to climb back again in the morning, going past the view point and west to a small timbered plateau. From here the track, cut roughly into a vertical cliff-face of the Kiewa valley, dropped southwards and crossed over a saddle into the Little Scrubby Creek side of the range. Much time was taken rounding spurs and gullies, only one of the latter containing any flow of water, but most bristling with heat and humidity. Wild flowers flourished brilliant with colour. The eastern ends of the longer spurs were the best places to catch any slight mountain breeze available. These spurs also divided the valleys into a number of upper basins for as far as the turn-off to Mount Tawanga. However we did not visit that mountain as it was time to look for a camp-site, so we followed an eastward dropping track into the rock­ walled heads of Back Creek. Continuing the descent of this branch of Back Creek made it a pleasant morning until, too soon, the crystal waters of the bubbling creek became the smelly morass of cow pastures where blocks had been cleared. Acting on local advice, we avoided a lengthy road walk by taking a short cut over the ranges to join the Little Snowy Creek Road near the mouth of Diggers Creek. Dwindling into a narrow track, the dusty road forded the tributary Saxy Creek and crossed a low bridge over the main stream. A wide clearing made this a likely camp-site. Nearby stood a four-stamp ore crusher much overgrown with blackberries, evidence that this was once the site of an old gold-field. A thicket of elms by the creek contained some trees which appeared to be of great age. 42 FOR A GOOD NIGHT'S SLEEP BUY A PURADOWN SLEEPING BAG

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43 Across the bridge stood a signpost bearing a choice of routes to Trappers Creek Gap; one via the dry weather road on the Dorchap Range, the other via the main ridge. The latter route was chosen. Bull­ dozed a few years ago for access to logging areas the road recrossed the stream, swung to the north-west, and climbed to the main ridge, joining it a few miles south of Mount Tawanga. From this point onward the track roughened with some steep climbs. But we were lucky; it was perfect walking weather, cool and fine. Along the ridge the viewpoints tempted one to linger in gazing over the mysterious upper basin of the Little Snowy Creek- an area still waiting to be explored by adventurous bushwalkers. Mt. Bogong loomed ever larger but, despite a good pace, by the time we reached the hut situated one mile before Trappers Creek Gap only one hour of daylight remained. After a fruitless search for water in the gully Trappers Creek was found flowing only a few yards below the Gap. By seven next morning we were on the Eskdale Spur proper, en route to Mount Bogong, the High Plains and beyond. The early morning walk was a complete delight. The mimicry of the lyre-birds entertained us for miles along the track. By eleven o'clock we were admiring the spic-and­ span neatness of the Bogong Club's Mitchell Shelter Hut, from where it was another hour's climb to the summit. How good it was to look back over our mountainous route that faded out in the blue haze of distance.

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44 TERRITORY AND PERSONAL SPACE

by Michael Griffin

We are sitting very quietly in a clump of bushes, observing. Ahead of us, and slightly below, is an expanse of flat ground, relatively free of scrub and large enough to accommodate a small army. Several people are gathered in the clearing, and others are arriving. Packs litter the ground, a few tents lie unerected. People look around, they talk to others, they move about. The tents are pitched; some grouped together, others scattered to the edges of the clearing. There is a healthy gap between even the closest tents, with one exception where the two owners are obviously more than just chummy. Before long the population has filled out the entire area, still maintaining respectable distances between groups and smaller, though still appreciable, distances between group members. A question moistens the lips: what would happen if others were to arrive? Ask no longer, the protagonists approach, latecomers. 'I'm going ahead to get a good campsite' said a walker earlier in the afternoon. His friend instead has dawdled, and is only now arriving. A group of three follows and then, finally, the inevitable straggler. As we watch, the friend of the early-bird seeks out his companion and joins his group. One more tent is accommodated within the space occupied by this miniature community. The group of three have now reached the day's end and stand undecided, talking and gesturing. Finally they move on, past the clearing, and find a small space amid the trees. The tents flourish. The straggler sneaks in just on dusk. He has been walking alone all day and intends to remain that way. Momentarily he considers squeezing in between two groups of tents on the large area but then, muttering something about the noise, we see him move on to a niche just outside the main clearing. His solitary tent soon proclaims his private domain and the message is clear - do not disturb. * * * Two years ago, R. S. Sommer published a book on the behavioural basis of design, which he entitled 'Personal Space'. It employed a concept of individual distance, defined as the characteristic spacing of species members. Sommer implied that such behaviour was learned; individuals were required to learn early in life how far they should stay away from others of their kind. Confining ourselves to man, we can say that Sommer pictured some kind of personal bubble which enclosed each individual and was his area of privacy. Encroachment by others into this area was seen as a violation of expectations. It was hypothesized that the size and shape of the bubble did vary with changing situations; such variables as the particular relationship, between the individuals concerned, and the number of individuals versus the available space, could be expected to affect the individual distance. Two years before 'Personal Space' appeared, Robert Ardrey turned out his second mind-storming "personal inquiry" book, 'The Territorial Imperative.' He was concerned with territory, which he defined as an area of space defended by an individual or group of individuals as an exclusive preserve. The territorial imperative involved the inward, innate compul­ sion to possess and defend such a space. 45 For the purposes of our present inquiry, I shall suggest that personal space and territory are of the same house. And although it is a doubtful procedure to cast an eye on bushwalking in the hope of revealing information about a biological concept such as territory, we might as well try it out and see what happens. Let us accept all the absurdities and paradoxes, and venture forth into the domain of the walker, carrying around his privacy bubble and motivated among other things by the territorial imperative. Ardrey, I think, would claim that Sommer's individual distance is a manifestation of an innate territorial need and thus not, in its essence, a learned behaviour. Whether this is so, we shall here weld them together and observe them jointly. If we are to get much mileage from concepts transposed to doubtful contexts, we shall need to bend things a little to suit ourselves. Ardrey quotes F. F. Darling's conclusion that motivation for territory is in fact psychological, arising from the need for security and stimulation. Ardrey then adds the need for identity, giving the three basic needs of man as identity, stimulation and security. In terms of their opposites, we shun anonymity, dread boredom and seek to reduce or elimin~te anxiety. Ponder, finally, over an Ardrey equation, A=E+h, where 'A' is amity (friendship), 'E' is enmity (aggression) and 'h' is hazard (environ­ mental or situational dangers, perceived or imagined). 'The amity, in other words, which an animal expresses for others of its kind will be equal to the sum of the forces of enmity and hazard which are arrayed against it." Here, enmity is seen as a biological condition, an innate response to other individuals of one's own species. Konrad Lorenz refers to aggression in man as a fighting instinct directed against fellow men. He also notes that "a personal bond, an individual friendship, is found only in animals with highly developed intra-specific aggression." Such an animal is man. * * * The group of walkers that we spied on earlier has been neglected for long enough. It is time to return, armed with our hocus-pocus of concepts, definitions and equations. Observe long and well, for there is work to be done. The straggler is included in the community but sits at its edge. He is maintaining a large individual distance. Perhaps, arriving late, he sensed that the large clearing had been mapped to capacity. Not having any particular friends in the group, or not wishing to acknowledge them, he was not squeezed inside the boundaries of a group territory. Because, in terms of territory, the clearing was fully occupied, the territorial borders straining against one another, his only recourse was to find an undefended area. The group of three, we shall presume, were friendly with most of the others but wished to remain together. Although there was sufficient space within any one territorial area for an extra individual, the three. in wishing to remain together, must seek out an unclaimed tract and establish it as their joint preserve. Within a particular territory, individual friendship is relatively high and intruders in general unwelcome. Enmity is directed out from the group to others in the community. But we must note that friends do not always camp together, and so the private property nature of the territory is differ­ entially applied. Friends from other groups may come and visit, and be accepted. The problem is that the groups combine to form a relatively close-knit community. All are walkers and share common interests. Al- 46 " . . inward, innate compulsion", or just chummy? See article - "Territory and Personal Space". Photo by John Brownlie.

though it is legitimate to talk of territories within the community, and amity- enmity relations, the community as a whole should be the focal point of our study. The community of walkers has in fact possessed a territory and will defend it against intruders such as walkers from other clubs. This territory comprises the large clearing, the small area occupied by the group of three, and the solitary tent space of our straggler. In other words, the community territory is approximately the sum of the group territories. To explain the acceptance into a group of a friend from another group, we will have to allow that group territories 47 are flexible. A person vJsllmg the group as a friend becomes temporarily part of that territorial space and will react to people outside the group boundaries in a manner similar to the group's original members, as long as he remains within the group territory. Within the community, even friends will maintain a certain distance from one another, as defined by their bubbles of personal space. The chummy couple with the joined tents are a pair and operate a joint territory. Even they will keep their bubbles, expanding in relationship with others, contracting when they are alone, but always present, changing size with the situation. Look back at the equation and consider the possibilities. If there is relatively little external hazard, then the value of 'A' will depend primarily on the value of 'E'. If enmity is directed outward from a group territory, amity within that group will be relatively high, but there will be aggression (enmity) between various groups or individuals within the community. The community will in this situation be somewhat fragmented and little enmity will be directed outward from the community as a whole. Group friendship will be preserved at the expense of community amity. If, how­ ever, the enmity is directed outward from the community as a whole, inter-group amity will be high and the community will be relatively cohesive, with weak group boundaries. According to the equation, the only way that internal friendship can be high for the community as a whole, if there is little or no enmity directed out beyond the community members, is for the external hazard (h) to be high. Note that enmity is not necessarily obvious; it can be expressed, (I would imagine) as humour, cynicism, sarcasm, changes of expression, gestures, displaced actions (kicking a tree instead of your neighbour) and a host of other subtleties. But, getting back to 'h', if the bushwalkers are threatened by a fire, or there is a deep river to cross, or it is bitterly cold or there is a large-scale thunder storm, the environment is potentially threatening and the value of 'h' will increase. Under such conditions, enmity need not be high for amity to be considerable. When the party is lost in the bush and the future is bleak, amazing friendship will flow and the members will be welded into one. Perhaps, because bushwalking brings one face to face with the environment and hazard is therefore always feasible, imagined, suspected or occupying one's attention, 'h' is relatively high in bushwalking communities anyway. Speculate at will. It is time to recall our straggler. Imagine that he is that well-known identity, Horace Scapegoat. One member of the community is symbolically cast out and the enmity is channelled to a single goal. The other walkers hold hands by the fire and cast stones at the figure out in the cold. They are friends, united for the moment by a high 'E' with a single victim. Bush­ walkers too are human. Suddenly a voice is heard, downstream, then several members of another club approach, intent on camping. Is there room? they will ask, and the answer will come back: Not here, further up stream. The com­ munity has spoken as one, out of common territory. Their enmity is now focused upon another society and the straggler comes up to join the others in a united stand. The potential intruders depart. bowing down to the enhanced strength of the proprietors- and preferring their own domain. * * * It is time to make a statement of intent. If you have read this far, and have swallowed the meal whole, may I suggest that you take up your 48 LIGHT QUICK AND EASY. 'LITE PACK' ALLIANCE FREEZE DRIED MEALS. WHY CARRY EXCESS WEIGHT? TAKE A LIGHT WEIGHT POUCH. ADD WATER. YOU HAVE A ~ LB MEAL.

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49 pack and depart, never to return. If, on the other hand, you are now ready to denounce me as slightly deranged, I salute your perspicacity. A modicum of truth is a dangerous thing when it is forced to yield a bumper harvest out of a few pieces of corn. The meanderings here explored harbour rapids. Just one question among many- can one legitimately use the field of bushwalking, and the particular situations that I have decreed, as a testing ground for territory and personal space? My answer is simple- I do not care; just let me enjoy myself and follow if you will. So far we have ignored the three needs, a very heavy box of ammun­ ition. Let us open it and begin firing. The need for stimulation is perhaps satisfied by walking itself, and its differing intensity and mode of expression between individuals may explain why some race to the front, climb every mountain, run down hills, walk alone and do everything the hard way, while others are content to amble slowly along, look at all the flowers, read books at lunch time, argue about Einstein's special theory of relativity and count the number of flies on the pack of the person in front. The needs for security and identity are satisfied by the presence of one's fellow walkers and by the title of "walker". One knows what one is and that one is safe. Too much security, of course, will become boring, and further stimulation will then be required. A bushwalking club is perhaps an ideal place for that interesting individual who walks by himself three hundred yards behind the group, or who races off without telling anybody, only to be heartily glad when eventually reunited. Stimulation and security are not easily found in the one package, and behaviour must fluctuate. A bushwalking club can handle differing intensities of stimulation­ varying the standard of trips, etc. -and for need for security- degree of adherence to the main body of walkers, etc. It can also, I suggest, satisfy the need for identity in its varying intensities. At one end of the scale is the person who wishes only to walk. He has probably achieved identity in other fields, and may not have a high need for it in the first place. If consideration is now given to the leader, the man with the finger in all the club pies, the committee member and office bearer, we can be subtle enough to refrain from saying the obvious. The joke is on whoever takes me or himself too seriously. Bushwalking has territorial linkages, because it is a human activity. At least it involves people who carry their personal bubbles around with them. In part, then, it probably satisfies the three psychological needs that motivate territorial behaviour. I am prepared to be serious and suggest that such things follow, to some extent, if we accept the numerous premises. But this article is not intended to supply the essential truths. The issues are open to debate. By all means argue round the campfire; but beware the man who protests too much.

References: Ardrey, Robert. THE TERRITORIAL IMPERATIVE. Fontana edition. 1970. Lorenz, Konrad. ON AGGRESSION. University Paperback edition. l97J. Sommer, Robert. PERSONAL SPACE, THE BEHAVIOURAL BASIS OF DESIGN. Englewood Cliffs, N.J. Prentice-Hall, 1969.

50 Come away with YHA

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seeking friendships?

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52 WALKS SECTION • EASY WALKING IN THE NORTHERN SNOWY MOUNTAINS

Features: Relaxed and enjoyable walking mostly over jeep tracks and along foot pads. Some excellent views, and pleasant campsites each with a nearby hut. Some of the six days of walking, described below, could be completed in half the time by the more fit and experienced type of walker.

Transport: Arrange motor transport to Round Mountain which is seven miles past Tooma on the Khancoban/Cabramurra Road. The Grid Refer­ ence on the S.M.A. Tooma sheet is 923594. The trip finishes at Clover Flat Creek, 17! miles past Khancoban on the Khancoban/Cabramurra Road. The creek and the nearby stock route are both signposted, and there is also a small parking area and fireplace.

Maps: All grid references given here belong to the Tooma and Indi Snowy Mountains Authority Maps, 1 inch = 1 mile. Also helpful is the Kosciusko I :100,000 map, and also the Geehi Club Book "Snowy Mountain Walks" which contains much informative material on the area.

Description of route:

Day one. Round Mountain to the S.M.C. Hut. There is a gentle saddle, just south of the road, at 924593. Cross the road and head for this saddle by following a very faint jeep track. Keep following the track in a westerly direction for about 100 feet up the side of Round Mountain to a ski-tow engine-shed some 200 yards from the road. Leave packs here while con­ tinuing the climb by following the tow-line (which does not, as shown on the Kosciusko I: I 00,000 map, go to the top) and then through light scrub. The view to the Worlds End in the north-west and to Mount Jagunal in the south make the fairly easy 500 foot climb well worth the effort.

After returning to the packs, head south-east to a small creek, follow­ ing it downstream to where it crosses a road at 929588. Head south-west along this road, keeping to the left at two track-junctions, until reaching the S.M.C. hut in the vicinity of 917528. This hut could make an emer­ gency refuge in bad weather, otherwise campsites can be found all around, while the rise of Pugilistic Creek offers a supply of good water. (This hut is shown a half-mile out of place on the Kosciusko I : 100,000 map). The hut at 916544 is in poor condition, but could be used in an emergency. 53 Day two. S.M.C. Hut to Grey Mare Hut. The track continues south-east for 1t miles to a sign posted junction. Packs may be left here while climbing Mount Jagungal as a side trip. This is a most impressive moun­ tain rising to 6,764 feet, which makes it the highest point attained on the walk, and is well worth the visit, especially on fine days. Follow the jeep track north-east from the signpost for a half-mile to cross the head of the River. One satisfactory way to climb Mount Jagungal is to leave the track, which runs parallel to the creek, 100 yards beyond the crossing. Head off at right-angles to the track, aiming for the open spur which extends off the mountain in a south-south-west direction. Make the climb along this spur, keeping to the left (W) of the rocky face. However, on a clear day any suitable route can be used. With some care taken to avoid the worst of the scrub, the climb up can be completed with moderate exertion in 1! miles. After returning to the packs follow the track south-south-west for five miles to where it crosses Back Flat Creek. (If the Jagungal climb is omitted, it could be expected to reach this point at lunch time). After crossing Back Flat Creek, the track follows the right (W) side of the valley for a half-mile to the Grey Mare Hut turn-off. Camp here or at the hut which is a quarter-mile to the west and 200 feet up the valley slope just below the treeline. On clear days, the hut can be seen easily from the riverbank before reaching the turn-off for which, in conditions of poor visibility, a sharp lookout must be made to the right. Day three. Side trips: - The Grey Mare. These walks are optional, and if missed the party could follow the next day's itinerary. The trip to Valentine Falls commences by following the jeep road down­ stream, in a south-east direction for ! mile to 920471. From here the track ascends the ridge to the north, then the south, in a large arc to the Valentine River. Keep to the main track even though it leaves the creek valley sooner than indicated on the maps. The jeep track seems to be following one of the pads marked on the Indi sheet, starting at 920471, but not going to 923466 as indicated. On reaching the Valentine River follow it downstream by keeping mainly to the west bank, especially when nearing the spectacular main falls. Some rock-scrambling will be required over this rugged tract. After reaching the main falls either return the same way or follow the north bank of the stream to the Geehi River. If the latter course is taken, keep well away from the river, for to follow it close to the falls would entail cliff work almost worthy of ropes. On reaching the Geehi River follow it upstream, keeping to the west bank until regaining the track. The walk can be completed in half a day by the route along the track. However, if the Valentine is followed down to the Geehi River then it can be expected that the half-day will be a moderately hard one. The trip to the Grey Mare and Penders Lookout contains some pleasant walking, especially on a fine clear day, for the views are superb. The track is the west branch of the track from the Grey Mare Hut. After following the creek for t mile, it then climbs out of the valley to the south. At the top of the climb, 1!- miles from the hut, a signpost points to a jeep track heading westwards. It is along this track that tomorrow's route lies. For the present, however, keep on the south-western track for three miles, ignoring the trig. point 1! miles past the junction. After a final steep climb of 400 feet the track levels out and passes 100 yards to the right (E) and just below the trig. of the Grey Mare. If it is intended to visit Penders Lookout (trig. point) to the north-west, be prepared for thick scrub! 54 Day Four. Grey Mare Hut to Pretty Plain Hut via Bulls Head Rock Area. The tracks heading west from the back of the Grey Mare Hut as shown on the maps may not exist. Some parties have reported great difficulty in finding them. So generally (excepting the determinedly adventurous) it is best to follow yesterday's route to the top of the valley and the sign­ posted junction. From here head west then north along the track. Although there should be little or no difficulty in following the tracks in fine weather, a few inches of snow can obscure them. The track heads north and then west after passing Bulls Head Rock, and drops sharply for 300 feet. When it levels out, it crosses the heads of three creeks coming in from the right. At these points the track is following a ridge with the creeks at the saddles, each one clearly the beginning of the valley of an alpine creek fairly clear of scrub. Follow the first of the three creeks on to where it becomes the Bulls Head Creek. The ideal route is to follow the foot track, starting at 881488, and heading northwards. However, if this is missed the going will still be found easy, the Pretty Plain Hut being situated about two miles to the north. If having travelled too far west before turning north, the next stream, The Pretty Plain Creek, leads to an unmistakable land feature in the form of a long tongue of land delaying the junction of the Pretty Plain and Bulls Head Creeks, where the latter creek can be followed upstream for one mile to the Pretty Plain Hut, a spacious, if draughty, refuge. Day Five. Pretty Plain Hut to Wheelers Hut. Head downstream (N) four miles to where the creek- now the Tooma River- is joined by Hellhole Creek, and then turn sharply to the west. The easiest way is to follow the left (W) bank. (Note that the hut shown at 888520 is still standing­ condition unknown). At the bend to the west keep to the south-west bank where, shortly after the bend, a jeep track climbs the side of the valley, drops to cross a small creek and rises again. This track becomes the North­ South Track along the Dargals Range. Leave the track just where it swings to the south. This occurs at an open patch in a small saddle in the vicinity of 877542. (The Dargals Track is shown only on the Kosciusko I: I 00,000 map). From the saddle head west to Wheelers Hut which, on a clear day, can be seen from the saddle across two valleys, and just below the tree-line of The Big Darga!. If the hut is not seen, cross the valleys of Broadway and Dargals Creeks on a westerly bearing, and the hut will be found just below the tree-line. Although not the best, the hut would be quite acceptable as a storm refuge. Water can be found in the creek north of the hut, or by following the fence outside to a small creek running parallel to the frame. Day Six. From Wheelers Hut to Clover Flat. The track from Wheelers Hut to Snakey Plain can be picked up just north of the hut. This track can also be reached by following the fence to its end, and crossing the creek just to the left (N) of the fence and finding the track on the far bank of the creek. Alternatively, scrub-bash upstream along the creek immediately to the left (W) of the hut for 200 yards to a bridge. A clear jeep track leads to Snakey Plain. Although it becomes indistinct, the track can be found leaving halfway across the plain on the right (N). This track then drops to the old stock route to Wolseleys Gap. Follow the route left (W) down to Clover Flat. G.McP.

NOTES COMPLIED: June, 1971.

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56 THREE-DAY WALKS: ALONG THE SNOWY RANGE

Transport: Private. Starting point-The Lost Plain (4,890 feet), 29 miles from Licola on the Moroka Road. Transport from Bryces Gorge.

Suitable Season: Early January.

Description of the Route: First Day. From Lost Plain climb north and NNE along the ridge to Mount Arbuckle. Good views easterly from the summit (t mile). In a further i mile cross east-west jeep track. Continue north along range to the Mount Howitt Road at its junction with Carey Creek logging road (4871 feet, 3 miles). Continue north along Carey Creek valley road t mile to another logging road; turn right and follow slightly uphill to a log loading ramp; turn right and climb east, in a short distance reaching a rocky scarp (4! miles). Walk north downhill along the scarp edge with very good views of Carey Creek valley and The Watchtower. Continue down red rock scarp to where Carey Creek tumbles in three stages from the rotten rock, the last a huge leap of at least 200 feet.

A couple of hundred yards before reaching the creek look for a way down over rotten rock to a lower section of the scarp further north. Take care in reaching this rocky point which overlooks the magnificent lower Carey Creek waterfall and the gorge below. Cross the creek between the second and main waterfall, climb the hill to the right on to a logging road, continue west three hundred yards uphill along road to another logging track on the right, follow north t mile to the rocky scarp edge. From here, there are splendid views of the eastern cliffs of Lookout Creek's cirque-like valley and the 400-foot waterfall on Lookout Creek. Return to the logging road and continue south to the second crossing of Carey Creek (6! miles). A quarter-mile further on look for high plain valley, cross the small creek and follow the grassy upland valley SSW to its head where Mount Howitt road runs east-west. There is a good campsite near the Howitt head of Holmes Plain not far south of the road. (7} miles for the day.) Water is in Shaws Creek 500-600 yards south down the valley.

Second Day. Follow Howitt Road west to the point above The Gorge where the road turns north; follow for t mile (t mile), then turn right; walk north-east to scarp edge overlooking Carey Valley. The walk north along the dark red terraced scarp reveals superb views of Surveyors and Careys Creek valleys, The Watchtower plateau and distant Snowy Bluff from at least a score of viewpoints; in fact, views in an easterly direction are almost continuous for long distances south of Lookout Creek. The terraced rock gardens reveal most of the showy alpine plants. One mile SSE of Mt. Lookout turn west to avoid a larger swampy creek valley, then turn north-east. Continue along ridge to a point ESE of Mount Lookout (3! miles) and directly above Lookout Cirque where 57 the southern head of Lookout Creek with its tiny shovel has gouged out a large bowl-like valley up in the red-brown cliffs. On the northern slopes of the bowl a perfect Woolybutt glade awaits its destruction by chain saw, the logging road creeping northwards ever nearer. To visit Lookout Creek Falls walk steeply downhill ENE to a point overlooking the magnificent waterfall where Lookout Creek plunges 400 feet vertically from the reddish cliffs (3! miles). Return to the head of Lookout Cirque; care is often required in this region as the rocky terrain is steep and loose. Climb spur in a westerly direction around the northern slopes of Mount Lookout, avoid small cliffy areas. On reaching the Snowy Plains/Mount Howitt Road (5 miles) walk north to where the valley head of Lookout Creek crosses the road (5t miles). From this point two alternatives are available. The first is to return to Holmes Plain via The Valley. Head south and SSW along jeep track and cattle trail almost over the top of Mount Lookout (5400 feet). This is a pleasant walk along the cattle trail through typical high-plains country. The track turns south-east and drops sharply into The Valley (Shaws Creek). In a fine snow gum grove where the track again swings south there is an excellent campsite with good water close by (8t miles). Continue south-west along The Valley to a point west of The Gorge (9t miles). Turn left (east) and follow Shaws Creek through The Gorge to Holmes Plain. On reaching a logging road turn left and follow to Snowy Plains Road, turn right and follow to the head of Holmes Plain (JOt miles). The alternative route from Lookout Creek is to continue north along the Snowy Plains to Bryces Gorge. Cross the Big Plain in ENE direction past the airfield. On reaching the scarp walk north and north-west to the northern end of Racecourse Plain (7t miles). Continue north along the Snowy Range either by the old jeep track or the road. There are many good views out to the east and south-east. On reaching point 5050 feet elevation at junction of Howitt Road and Mount Darling Range logging road (9t miles) turn left and camp at the head of Caledonia River (10 miles, 4800 feet elevation).

Third Day. From road junction (5050 feet) walk south-east then south. After about t mile look for old jeep track turning east, follow this track down slightly over rocky outcrop; continue east to the edge of a rocky scarp; follow edge south to a high rocky point 1 mile south-east of elevation 5050 feet. There are splendid views of Mount Darling plateau a mile or so across Carey Valley, also of The Watchtower plateau and distant Snowy Bluff, although some of the panorama is spoiled by evidence of extensive logging on Mount Darling plateau. What was once a perfect upland valley, complete with lovely groves of tall Woolybutt and deep moss beds of sphagnum moss, now appears to be a shambles of criss­ crossed logs, denuded slopes and dead vegetation. On regaining the faint jeep track, walk west 400 yards to a slight ridge, turn right and follow this ridge north through snow gums to Mount Darling Range logging road (2 miles). On this section between the south-east point and the logging road wildflowers grow in great profusion, literally thousands of Sun Orchids cover the grassy slopes, so many there are that after a while one becomes quite blase about the prolific growth and beauty. On reaching Mount Darling road turn right and follow to the highest point just before descent into the Carey. Look for a rocky top to the left (2-_t miles). 58 From this summit (5130 feet) there are views of the Carey and Conglomerate valleys. From a rocky ledge 100 feet lower there are even better views over the divide between these two valleys. (Mount Darling Saddle) Turn left and follow the high spectacular scarp north-west. During the next 600 yards there are superb views of Bryces Gorge, the Conglomerate valley and all the country way out to of Buffalo. Look for a lower red rock shelf further north. From this point there is yet another spectacular view of the Conglomerate Creek valley and of gorges in red Devonian sandstone. Return to Mount Darling logging road, turn right and return to the junction at 5050 feet (4-;t miles) and Caledonia River head (5} miles).

For further information on the country further north, refer to next page of this issue and page 53 of WALK 1970.

It must be noted that on the walk north along the Snowy Range from The Gorge to Bryces Gorge one is never more than one mile from the Howitt Road. In most places it is only a few hundred yards. This means that one may join or leave the Snowy Range scarp almost at will over a distance of at least 7 miles. F.W.H. MAP REFERENCE: Moroka, Mines Dept., 1:63,360 (Geological). NOTES COMPILED: January, 1971.

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59 MOUNT DARLING AREA

MOUNT DARLING-WONNANGATTA VALLEY-BRYCES GORGE

Wonnangatta Valley has for many years been one of those beautiful far-away valleys which bushwalkers consider a must among the locations for walking. Many think that it is the ultimate in Victorian bushwalking. Several routes are commonly used for access, but recently a new route was walked by one of our club parties. Access was from a point (F.C.V. mileage peg) 72t miles north of Heyfield at the junction of the Snowy Plains and Mount Darling forestry roads. It was a circular walk including the Mount Darling ridge, Wonnangatta Station, Conglomerate Creek valley, the upper section of Guys Spur, Conglomerate Falls, Guys Hut, Piemans Pool, Bryces Gorge and back to the starting point. Generally, walking was of medium standard except that the 3 miles just south of Mount Darling were very rocky and scrubby, making the going harder. Also encountered was a steep and slow climb for It miles between the Conglomerate Creek valley up through the cliffs to Guys Spur. The complete circuit took three days with campsites at Wonnangatta Station and on Conglomerate Creek at Bryces Hut site. The walk was virtually a circuit of the Conglomerate Creek watershed with the exception of a small section of its extreme upper reaches. Water was not available for most of the first day's walk, but otherwise it was plentiful. In our opinion the best season for this walk would be the summer­ time. If you are tantalized by this long list of interesting places and details, then try it for yourself by walking according to the following directions. From the start mentioned above, walk along the Mount Darling road for It miles to the first of many hairpin bends. At this point leave the road and descend the spur slightly south-of-east to a deep saddle where the road is again met. This point is about 2! miles from the start of the walk. Continue walking up the road from the saddle for t mile to an area of intensive logging, then turn sharp back north on a further forestry road. Do not go south-east at this point which seems the obvious road. Next head north for t mile, then east t mile to the section's only water supply. and then a further t mile east up the road to the fairly obvious crest of the Mount Darling ridge. A jeep track heads north along the ridge for one mile and from this point climb to the top of the ridge and continue along crest for nearly 4 miles to Mount Darling. At first walking is through pleasant alpine grass and snow gums, then it becomes rocky and scrubby. By the time you reach Mount Darling you will be feeling tired, especially after having scrambled over the last mile just south-east of Mount Darling itself. However, the view is superb and the rocks are fascinating. By now you have walked 9! miles and the rest of the day's walk is down-hill and a further 3 miles to camp at Wonnangatta Station. 60 SNOWY PLAINS MOROKA GORGE

0 2 3 4 Ml LES l ~ I N

61 From Mt. Darling descend steeply just east-of-north-east for t mile; then turn due north down a prominent spur for H miles; then slightly east-of­ north for a further It miles down the spur to Wonnangatta. The best campsites are along the magnificent Wonnangatta River rather than at the homestead site. The valley is fascinating and well worth a wander through the European and fruit trees, along the creek and river, to the family cemetery (! mile north-east of the homestead) and among the stockyards and smithy's shed. The river is excellent for swimming and the fruit is delicious in February. The second day is not much easier than the first day. It entails an easy and beautiful walk along a cattle pad for 3± miles south-west beside Conglomerate Creek to the point where the creek turns south. This is the best place for an early lunch as there is no water for the next section. After lunch start the steep H miles climb to the Guys Spur track. First proceed t mile west up a steep spur; turn south along a flat ridge for i mile; then t mile west again up through the cliffs to a high prominent rocky knob. Then walk a further t mile south-west from the knob to the obvious Guys Spur track. Once on the track, follow it up south-west then south into the alpine grasslands and snow gums. Markers are on the trees, but the track divides and is hard to follow in places. The track separates into many directions soon after the alpine area is reached, so take care especially in fog conditions. The correct route is south-south­ west until the top of the ridge is reached then due south downhill to Conglomerate Creek. If any doubt exists head due south until the creek is met. The campsite is beside the creek at a large clearing 3 miles after you join the Guys Spur track. The day's total distance is 8 miles. A well-earned rest is the feature of the third day's walk. Firstly, an optional but extremely worthwhile side trip without packs is strongly suggested. From the campsite follow Conglomerate Creek downstream for t mile and you come to what must be one of the best waterfalls in Victoria. Conglomerate Creek plunges away into Bryces Gorge in true "Blue Mountains" style. The cliffs alone are worth going to see. In addition, by walking a further ! mile up onto a high knob just north-east of the falls, truly magnificent views are obtai ned of the gorge plus Mt. Darling and the surrounding mountains. Return to camp by much the same route, pick up your heavy pack and walk one mile south along the track to Guys Hut. This hut is beside Piemans Creek, and is an interesting place for a short rest before following Piemans Creek one mile east and downstream to where it drops spectacularly into Bryces Gorge. Right at the falls is Piemans Pool, an excellent but cold swimming-pool, ideal for a hot day. The falls and pool make a good lunch spot. Lastly, retrace your route upstream along Piemans Creek for ! mile, then walk south for t mile to meet the Snowy Plains road. Follow the road in a generally south-easterly direction for one mile to the end of your walk at the Mount Darling road junction. Distance of the day's walk is 6 miles, making a total for three days of 26± miles. T.T.T.

MAP REFERENCE: Moroka, Lands Dept., 1:63,360. Howitt, Lands Dept., 1:63,360. NOTES COMPILED: July, 1971.

62 MOROKA GORGE

The inaccessible regions of Victoria are becoming fewer with the encroachment of roads and jeep tracks into the mountains. One small pocket that, as yet, is still untouched is the Moroka Gorge, two or three miles south of Mount Kent and not very far from the famous Lake Tali Karng. Moroka Gorge was discovered around 1860 by Alfred Howitt and then, it appears, promptly forgotten until re-discovered by bush­ walkers in 1961. The walker who ventures here has to know how to read map and compass in order to find his way through untracked bush and be prepared to clamber down waterfalls and, perhaps, even swim with his gear, if he wishes to follow the gorge to its end. There are two or three routes into the gorge, but the easiest, described here, begins at the Horseyards on the Moroka River, a few miles upstream from the gorge. To reach the Horseyards, where cars may be left, follow the forestry road from Heyfield, in Gippsland, through Licola thirty-four miles to the north; thence via the Wellington River valley, Bennison Spur, Mount Arbuckle and Trapyard Hill until the Moroka River is reached and crossed on a bridge. The bridge is approximately eighty miles from Heyfield. Continue driving along the road for about H miles to a road junction. Take the left-hand branch (right-hand branch signposted "Castle Hilr') and watch for a jeep track on the left a little over a mile further on. Drive down this track for about 400 yards to a run-down hut at the Horseyards. This is a good place to camp. Leaving the cars here continue to follow the jeep track which shortly emerges on the bank of the Moroka River. Here the track becomes obscure and may easily be lost on the river flats. Waste no time searching for it but ford the river at a suitable point, and continue walking downstream along the west bank, following the river flats northwards, and, ignoring the track which will be seen on the west bank, cross a wide swampy area where Morgans Gully flows into the river, and enter the scrub on the far side. Continue downstream, climbing fifty feet or so above the river to avoid thick tea-tree scrub, before dropping down to scrubby river fiats. Watch for a small creek entering the river flats and, after crossing the creek, leave the river and begin climbing steadily for about t mile. Approximate compass bearing 280 degrees magnetic. As soon as the top of the spur is reached and the ridge levels off, head due north through light scrub that impedes any view. Keep out of the heads of a small gully flowing east to the Moroka. For about t mile the ridge is fairly flat and scrubby. Eventually the ridge begins to descend, getting steeper and dropping over a couple of small cliffs until the Moroka River is reached again at its confluence with Lummican Gully. The last 500 feet of the descent is very steep and scrubby. Care should also be taken to avoid heading into gullies on either side, where the scrub is extremely thick and progress very slow. Thick tea-tree scrub grows around the river bank, but a few campsites have been cut around the mouth of Lummican Gully. This is about the only place where one can camp as the gorge begins immediately 63 downstream from here, although it is quite feasible to bivouac down in the gorge. However, it is a good plan to camp at Lummican Gully for two nights and allow a full day to explore the gorge, and then to return to the cars at the Horseyards by the same route. It is only a half-day walk to Lummican Gully from the Horseyards, distance-three to four miles. From Lummican Gully follow the Moroka downstream into the gorge, mostly keeping to the south bank. There are many small waterfalls and two large ones. A rope is useful for getting past the larger falls. Progress through the gorge is slow, being an equal mixture of rock, scrub and water. However, the scenery is spectacular and the effort of reaching the gorge is amply rewarded.

Suitable Season: Summer and autumn are probably the best times to visit the Moroka Gorge. Avoid winter when the roads are often closed by snow, and spring when the river is in flood. The gorge could become very dangerous during times of extra high rainfall, or during the spring thaw. J.L.S. REFERENCES: Guide to the , Melbourne University Mountaineering Club. MAP REFERENCE: Moroka, Mines Dept. I: 63, 360.

NOTES COMPILED: March. 1971.

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64 TWO-DAY WALK:

MOUNT TERRIBLE- BIG RIVER

Many times one hears people express their pleasure of driving from Eildon to Jamieson; of their liking for the Jake, river and mountain scenery, the ferns and flowering trees. The bushwalker has of course an even greater advantage in that he does not have to stay on the road, but can pick the best areas then head off where he wishes. Where the Big River is crossed by the Eildon-Jamieson road is a place where bushwalkers can use their advantage to its greatest extent. For here is the start of a first-class two-day walk encompassing alpine country and beautiful stretches of river scenery, plus historical interest at Enochs Point, an old gold-mining area. From the start at the Big River bridge walk t mile north on the road to a signpost "Fryers Creek Spur", leave the road here and follow the jeep track east then south-east up and ever upward on the spur to magnificent Mount Terrible, a distance of 5! miles. The summit gives a virtual 360 degrees view and, if that's not good enough, the very high fire tower will give an even better view. Water for lunch is available in the tank at the Forests Commission hut, also on the summit. The hut is open as a refuge when not being used by the F.C.V. in summer, and has a very pleasant verandah to sit on and enjoy the view of Mount Skene, Mount McDonald, The Bluff, Mount Buller-just to name a few of the many peaks that may be seen in this area. After lunch walk south ± mile past the helipad to a signpost­ "Matlock Track" and "Dean Spur". Turn south down Dean Spur jeep track which soon swings south, then eventually west, descending rapidly all the time for 3! miles to the Enochs Point road, one mile north of Enochs Point. Then finish the day's walk by following the latter to Enochs Point, an excellent campsite beside the Big River which, in February, boasts blackberries the size of tennis balls. The day's distance totals 10! miles. The second day is a pleasant stroll north-westwards, following the Big River back to the starting point of the walk, a distance of only 6t miles. From Enochs Point, an old mining-track heads north-west close by the river's east bank and is by far the better route compared with the Enochs Point road further east up the slopes. The mining-track is dotted with interesting objects, and mine-shafts, etc., abound. After It miles the track joins with the road, having negotiated some blackberries. The last 5 miles is spent ambling along the old road which gives many riverside views and generally can be described as very pleasant. Numerous swimming holes also exist. T.T.T. MAP REFERENCE: Jamieson, National Mapping, 1:50,000. NOTES COMPILED: May, 1971.

65 ONE-DAY WALKS: A DAY ROAMING IN STRATH CREEK GORGES Distance: 11 *miles. Transport: Private to Grid. Ref. 271968, 50 miles from Melbourne. Return from Strath Creek at 236016, 61 miles from Melbourne.

Features: Visits to three of the district's five waterfalls, good views of wild rocky gorges and gullies. Good walking during spring, but not so suitable during the hot months. The walk is worth while, the general impression being that of a rocky wilderness. Allow at least seven hours for the journey, as some of the steep terrain is shaly and loose.

Description of the Route: From the starting point walk north, then north-west along the jeep track for It miles to 260987. Just a short distance north-west there is a distant view out to the north-east. From the road walk west-south-west down a flat spur. From 255984 the spur drops more steeply (avoid the spur southwards), follow that westwards, then west-north-west-the correct spur has a deep gully always close by on the right. Continue on down the steep rocky spur to the creek junction at 249985. Diggers Gully Falls are situated at 248984 (2i miles). From the creek junction climb steeply south up spur to the end of a road at 250980. Walk south-west through bush to a road (2! miles), turn right and continue west to road junction 240979; turn right to 238982, then cross gully through bush in a north­ west direction. Follow road to 235985 (3! miles). Head north to a hilltop at 234987. From here follow spur north-west to a creek junction at 233989 (4t miles). The main head of Tunnel Hill Creek comes from the south-west, while the minor stream plunges downhill from the south-east and tumbles through a large rocky arch spanning the gully. Just above the creek junction there is a wild scene with small cliffs, a rocky ramp, and a waterfall tumbling through a natural bridge which is composed of layers of sedimentary stone, a most unusual geological feature. On the northern side of the arch a tunnel penetrates the rocky wall. From the creek climb west-north-west to the top of Tunnel Hill, 231991, joining a ridge-top jeep track. Follow this south-west to access road at 228989 (4t miles). Continue south along this road to 223983, avoiding left road at 224986. Turn right, walk west to rocky edge (5! miles) affording views of Murchison Falls and the Strath Creek Gorge, 219983. Follow the rocky edge to the top of the Murchison Falls 215981 (51 miles). There are many good views of the gorge and falls from the rocky edge. 66 Cross creek just above the falls. Look for a faint track on a rocky ridge; follow this, heading north-west around the gorge rim. Watch for lookout point 150-200 yards from falls. From here there is a good view of a 200ft. waterfall (Murchison Falls). Follow a jeep track on the spur uphill north and north-west to Murchison Spur Road, 207989 (6t miles). Turn right and follow this road north and north-west for It miles to a junction with an access track at 199009 (H miles). Continue north­ west a further 150 yards, then leave road and head northwards along a green patch down a shallow valley. On reaching the main head of Wild Dog Creek (8t miles), turn right (east) and follow the steeply descending valley slopes for half a mile to where it flattens out. It is quite pleasant walking down the green flats of Wild Dog Creek. Later, farm tracks are followed easterly through the peaceful valley until the road along Strath Creek is joined at 235027 (lOt miles). Turn right (south) and follow this to the finishing point at 236016. (Total distance II t miles.) F.W.H. MAP REFERENCE: Kinglake, Lands Dept., 1:50,000. NOTES COMPILED: July, 1971.

• "Lose an hour in the morning and you'll be all day catching it up." -19th century proverb •

MAPPING The followng maps at a scale of I :100,000 were published during 1971:- Beaufort, Eden, Healesville, Mallacoota, Nelson, Numb Ia, Port­ land.

The following maps at a scale of 1:100,000 will be available soon:­ Butfalo, Donald, Dookie, Dunolly, Wangaratta, Wedderburn, Whitfield.

The following maps at a scale of 1:50,000 have been published this year:- Bruthen, Taylor, Wilsons Promontory and Glennie, Yan Yean, Yarra Glen.

67 AN EASY WALK IN THE SHERBROOKE FOREST

Distance: 6! miles.

Transport required to and from Grants Picnic Ground, Kallista. Monbulk bus from Belgrave station.

Features: Victorian rain forest, fern gullies, hill suburbs and tall Mountain Ash forest. Great variety in this Dandenongs hill-country walk.

Description of Route: From Grants Picnic Ground cross Monbulk Road; walk north-west 200 yards; turn left on to Sherbrooke Road. In a further 600 yards turn left on to Clematis Avenue-"Foot traffic only"-at a hairpin bend. The track leads uphill south-west through rain forest of Musk, Hazel, Sassafras and Blanketleaf. In a half-mile turn left downhill on to small stony track. After 100 yards turn right (NNW) on to firebreak track. Follow this for ±-mile to Ambrose Pratt Memorial. Continue on 100 yards and at the end of the firebreak turn left (SW). In a further 50 yards turn right and follow track along a ferny creek through magnificent ash forest. At next track junction turn right across Long Bridge (signposted "Wattle Track") then left along track signposted "Ferny Creek". Further on avoid track to left and continue along main track through a very muddy patch. At the next junction turn left and cross Sherbrooke Gully on a wooden bridge, then left again on to West Gate Lane (marked as Ferny Creek or Hacketts Track on Map) and walk ESE through beautiful Mountain Ash forest. In half-mile turn right on to Tremont track. At the forest edge turn left (SE) on to firebreak. In 100 yards turn right (SW) and follow narrow track downhill on right hand of firebreak with views of hill suburbs. Just before reaching a gravel road look for a bridle track to the left. Follow bridle track downhill to picnic ground opposite Sandells Road. Follow track "Foot traffic only" downhill above Pound Creek; a beautiful valley with forest of tall ash and leafy Blanketleaf. At the bottom turn right; walk to Micawber Park; cross Monbulk creek over wooden bridge (4t miles). An alternative is to return to Belgrave by bus from this point. Continuing on, cross main road opposite kiosk and look for jeep track heading steeply uphill in a ESE direction. Avoid all side tracks, and, in 1000 yards join Coles Ridge Road; turn left and in a further It miles return to Grants Picnic Ground. F.W.H. MAP REFERENCE: Broadbents Map No. 200, Sherbrooke Forest. NOTES COMPilED: August, 1971. 68 RYSONS CREEK WILDFLOWER RESERVES

Transport: Private.

Features: Three Wildflower Reserves, Rain Forest, Mountain Ash forest and fern gullies.

Description of the Route: At about 53 miles from Melbourne turn left from the Princes High­ way on to the Labertouche Road. Further on avoid Jacksons Track and road to Labertouche Airfield; follow "Wildflower Reserve" road (signpost). At 4-5 miles from the highway the road crosses and recrosses a power line. At about six miles the road passes through the first of the Wildflower Reserves. At about 8 miles the next Reserve is reached. The Grass Tree Area is passed on the right. At about Grid ref. 823155 the Pink Boronia Area is reached to the left of the road. This magnificent section of the reserve is almost exclusively covered by tall shrubs of the exquisite Pink Boronia (Boronia muellerii) 10-15 feet high, the finest examples of light Pink Boronia anywhere in Victoria. Ryson Creek Camp (820168) provides a good campsite for further exploration of the district. The third reserve is also important because it contains samples of rain forest along both Lawson and Ryson Creeks. On both sides of Lawson Creek in the vicinity of BM801 (825190) there are many fine samples of the very rare and beautiful Grevillea Barclayana, a small tree up to 40 feet high and endemic only to this part of Gippsland. A seven-mile walk that penetrates a beautiful and secluded forest valley starts from Lawson Creek at 823174. Arrange for return transport to be situated at the finishing point on Tarago River road at 895205. Climb steeply eastwards along the logging road during early Novem­ ber; both sides of the track are a blaze of colour; the spur is covered by the dominant blue of Dampiera stricta. the pink of Wiry Bauera, and Rosy Heath-myrtle. During winter this section is notable also for fine specimens of Hill Banksia, with yellow and black bottlebrush flowers 2} inches diameter and 8 inches long. The sign at the start of the logging road reads "Quartz Creek Road Dry Weather Only". Avoid all side tracks; stay on spur which at times rises steeply. Avoid the logging road which leaves to the left at 852175 (2 miles) the scene of the logging of Silvertop Ash. Continue upwards through the gap between Hells Gates. Beyond this saddle the track enters the Quartz Creek watershed: the way downwards crosses a main Quartz Creek head at 874173 (3} miles). For at least two miles the track drops eastwards downhill passing through magnificent Mountain Ash forest along the valley of Quartz Creek. The track penetrates through leafy tunnels of White Phebalium, Flat Pea and highly scented Balm Mint Bush, glorious during November. This is a superb, untouched forest of Mountain Ash. Blackwood and Silver Wattle.

Fest ina lente- hasten slowly. -from the Latin. 69 Avoid the Jogging road to the right at 894181 (5 miles). A quarter of a mile further on the track turns north and continues, to the finishing point, through a forest of Ash saplings. The return distance by road to the starting point is about 11 miles. F.W.H. MAP REFERENCE: Neerim, Lands Dept., 1:50,000. NOTES COMPILED: July, 1971. •

"Moulllains are the beginning and end of all natural scenery." -John Ruskin . •

SNAKE HILL WILDFLOWER RESERVE

A new 82-acre reserve, named the Snake Hill Wildflower Reserve, has been declared in the Maryborough district by the Forests Commission, Victoria, under the Forests Act, 1958. It is located half-a-mile south of the Highway at approximately five miles west of Maryborough. Mr. Harold Beer, District Forester for Maryborough, initiated the action which has resulted in the declaration of this new attraction for naturalists and conservationists. Over 30 different species of wildflower grow in the forest environment of the reserve, with at least four of these deserving special protection. A colourful display can be seen during a good flowering year. The area mainly consists of a main north-south ridge with lesser east-west ridges running from it. It is part of a Box-Ironbark forest belt, with Red Box, Longleaf Box, Grey Box, Red Ironbark and Yellow Gum as the main species. Mr. Beer is hopeful that the Snake Hill Wildflower Reserve will be the first of several to be eventually declared in the Maryborough district. The fact that the best wildflower patches in the district are found on poor quality sites is an advantage, as there should be little likelihood that other activities will jeopardise their existence. Forests Commission, Victoria, June, 1971.

70 A WALK PROGRAMMED EVERY WEEKEND SLIDE NIGHTS, TALKS AND SOCIAL FIXTURES MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS

WALKS OF ALL STANDARDS OF ONE DAY TO ONE MONTH DURATION

WEDNESDAY MEETINGS IN CLUBROOM AT 8 p.m. HOSIER LANE, MELBOURNE

(REAR OF FORUM THEATRE)

71 MELBOURNE BUSHWALKERS

OFFICE-BEARERS AND COMMITTEE MEMBERS, 1971 G. Mascas, President. R. Filson, Vice-President. G. Kenafacke, Vice-President. J. Mead, Hon. Secretary. J. Pulsford, Hon. Treasurer. T. Thomas, Hon. Walks Secretary. M. Jorgensen, Hon. Social Secretary. P. Carlyon, Hon. Lodge Manager. S. Ball, Equipment Officer. R. Brown, Track Clearing Delegate, Tracks and Huts Delegate. P. Lambeth, Native Plants Delegate. A. Schafer, Librarian. R. Steel, Map Custodian, V.N.P.A. Delegate, Search and Rescue Delegate. A. Stirkul, Track Clearing Delegate. W. Baker, Magazine Convenor.

Committee of Management: G. Mascas and Roger Brown.

PRESIDENTS, 1964-71 1964, A. Bennett; 1965, W. Thompson-J. Brownlie. 1966, J. Brownlie; 1967, J. Brownlie; 1968, A. Proudfoot; 1969, A Proudfoot; 1970, A. Proudfoot; 1971, G. Mascas.

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