MAKIN' TRACKS

High Country Peter crossing the Andrew crossing the Murray River Adventurers Phil and Cheryl Meade (80 series) – trip leaders Andrew Boyd and Rob Alexander (Troopie) Jeff and Sandy Cameron (GU Nissan) Steve and Diana Entwistle (100 Series) John and Norma Ferguson (100 Series) George Lewis (80 Series) Peter and Mary Murphy (80 Series) Bob and Liz Rosevear (79 Series) The High Country — December 27, 2009 to January 8, 2010 —

Bob tackling a large tree on Buena Gap Track Sunday, December 27 – Jindabyne to Buenba Flat (Cheryl and Phil) Jindabyne was the starting point for what would be a thirteen day, 1100kms trip between Jindabyne and Bright. Would there be snow (as we in the previous year) or would there be rain (which would result in having to adopt a “plan B”), or would there be some other unforeseen circumstance affecting the trip? After a run-around the shops in Jindabyne by all (Rob forgot his underwear and Liz her walking shoes), the first part of the day was a scenic transport section along the Alpine Way, past Thredbo (all black-top), crossing the Murray River at Tom Groggin. A quick stop permitted deflation of tyres (essential) and it was then onwards and upwards to Mt Pinnibar. Torrential rain in this area, on the previous year’s trip, meant we were unable to use the Mt Pinnibar Track on that occasion. This year, however, although the Mt Pinnibar Track was again wet in places, it was negotiable although muddy and Rob and Bob slippery in several spots. The views from Mt Pinnibar were fleeting, with clouds rolling past the trig point, which at 1,772m is one of the highest in Northern . Mt Pinnibar to Buenba Flat was an easy 2 hours plus run along little- used trails. At the afternoon’s campsite Bob Rosevear discovered he had left his tent at home. However, luckily, Rob Alexander was planning to sleep in his swag and had brought a small $29 tent as well, in case it rained (which it would later in the trip!). We had a relaxing evening, around a campfire with a light drizzle, getting to know everyone. 30 TLCC NEWS APRIL 2010 THE HIGH COUNTRY

Philip driving through

Snatch block belonging to Washington Winch

Monday, December 28 – Buenba Flat to The adrenalin rush for the day was on Carroll’s Lane, which has Bentleys Plain (John and Norma) deteriorated considerably over the last few years. Bob misjudged the track and found himself on a 45 degree angle, his right front side Much of the morning was spent clearing the scenic Buenba Gap disappearing into a metre deep wheel rut. George was the second driver Track. Three were used to cut through three track- to require a recovery but great teamwork and guidance ensured that no blocking logs, the largest having a diameter of about 750mm. damage was done to either vehicle. Another adrenalin rush was on the We continued through Benambra and Omeo. Some interesting Powers Gully Track, very steep, very rutted and very slippery compared tracks, south of Benambra, were driven in the afternoon before to Mt Delusion Road which was wide and well graded. arriving at the Washington Winch on Nunniong Road. This is The remains of the 2006/2007 fires were still evident, with some areas historically and scientifically significant as it is the only intact similar to a moonscape in appearance, with tall blackened trunks high lead/skyline system in Victoria and possibly in standing alone and delicate wild flowers scattered below. Regrowth is (it was last used in 1961). Next was the night’s camp evident but ever so slow. spot at Bentley Plains Hut – a great camp for up to 10 vehicles. On arrival we were welcomed (as prearranged) by Tony and The afternoon was easy driving, to Camm’s Top Place where we had Penny Scott and Mark Willock and children, their camps already a pretty campsite set amongst tall trees. Andrew had a mishap when established and enjoying the peaceful location. opening a petrol can, resulting in his eyes being sprayed with fuel. How he managed to create a great cake for supper I’ll never know! Tuesday, December 29 – Bentleys Plain to Camm’s Top Place (Bob and Liz) Wednesday, December 30 – Camm’s Top Place to Horseyard Flat (George Lewis) Moscow Villa was our first stop; it is quite a ‘classy’ hut compared to others in the High Country and was built by a local bushman, Day 4 was to be another day of spectacular ascents and descents. But first Bill Ah Chow. The name of the hut comes from the acronym ‘My we took an early morning bush walk to look at the nearby deteriorating Own Summer Cottage Officially Welcomes Visitors Inside Light Camm’s Top Place Hut (it has seen much better days!). It was used by Lunch Available’. cattlemen moving their stock along by the side of the river. The ruins of the outside kitchen still remain as a reminder of the need to protect the Phil explored a new track (for him) called the South Escarpment hut’s main living area from man-made fires. Track, which had not been used for quite some time. At one point, cars literally disappeared into the bushes only 15 metres But, no time to linger – it was on and up to Mt Birregun, which provided in front of you. None of us came out of the track unscratched; extensive views and mobile phone access for those of us who wanted to this was the trip’s introduction to “pin-striping”. It was worth the ring home. Reaching the Birregun Crossing proved that we were adept effort, however, as the track widened and provided spectacular at steep descents and deserved a shady morning tea break there and views of the ranges above and valleys below. then! The diversion to Harrison’s Cut took us to where, over 100 years ago, goldminers had diverted the to enable alluvial gold Another unfamiliar track, the McKenzie Track, was a very steep, mining, which despite their back-breaking work, was unsuccessful. first gear low range descent, in an area dominated by enormous turpentines and mountain ash. Scattered throughout the At Kingswell Bridge, Tony and Penny Scott and family joined us. It was undergrowth were age-old grass trees while Hammond Break then on and up to the helipad on Billy Goat Bluff Track; and up and up was a photographer’s delight. and up again to East Pinnacle for 180 degree views from the fire tower TLCC NEWS APRIL 2010 31 SUBSCRIBE TO THE WILD SIDE

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Macalister River – New Year's Day . . . relief from the heat

at 1,445m. Phil was invited into the map room so the fire watcher (a relative newcomer to the position) could use Phil’s maps to name the distant peaks in his watch! Then down and down again to our camping site at Horseyard Flat for the customary Happy Hour, hot shower, dinner, and camp fire chat. Lesson 333 to be learned there was: never to back an 80 Series Landcruiser into a tree! Thursday, December 31 – Horseyard Flat to (Andrew and Rob) We departed Horseyard Flat (leaving Tony and Mark) at 8.05am and, as George was running short of fuel, we headed for Licola. After a quick refuel we headed to Dingo Hill Track. From Dingo Hill Track (very steep with very tight hair-pin bends that require full concentration to negotiate) we connected to the Butcher Country Track (also steep and, in places, washed-out), which led us to the Macalister River to camp for New Year’s Eve. It mustn’t have been George’s day as he had another flat tyre, having also had one the previous day. Norma & John also staked and destroyed a tyre on the same track. We celebrated New Year’s Eve with our meal being of Indian Flavour; all sorts of delicious dishes were presented and shared – with Tony, Penny and Mark again joining us. As the night wore on our party number became less and less as we approached midnight, only the brave few die-hards brought in the New Year. Peter crossing Macalister River Friday, January 1 – Macalister River (Diana and Steve) Skeleton Snow Gums Thunder, lightning, wind and rain welcomed in the New Year and left the tracks wet enough for a slippery start to the day’s proposed trek along Butcher Country Track. Stopping at a lookout 3km along the track, we discussed the severe local thunderstorm warnings for the day which we had just heard on ABC radio and decided to abandon the day’s trek as the tracks were already proving to be a challenge. Returning to camp various housekeeping chores kept us busy for the rest of the morning; the remainder of the day was rest and recreation. As the heat of the sun waned we all made our way down to the Macalister River to cool down. The water temperature was just right and the smooth river rocks provided us with comfortable holes to sit and chat. River rock basketball was the game of the TLCC NEWS APRIL 2010 33 MAKIN' TRACKS

View point hour as all and sundry tossed small rocks at one of the large boulders in the river, while others carefully ducked the rocks flying overhead. Once we had all retired for the night the promised thunderstorm finally hit with a massive light and sound show and torrential downpour. Saturday, January 2 – Macalister River to areas northwest (Peter and Mary) The overnight storm dumped what was estimated to be some 100mm of rain. Our beautiful river that had provided respite from the heat the day before with crystal-clear gently flowing water had significantly swollen in size, and become fast flowing with mud filled water. Our aim that morning was to cross the Macalister River on seven occasions on our way to Wren’s Flat. Our decision was to sit it out and wait to see what the weather would do – for some that meant back to bed; others spent the morning leisurely breakfasting and reading. If this trip taught us anything – 4WDing and flexibility go hand in hand. By midday, after no more rain, we decided to commence our move to higher ground. With the track a little drier, it all went without a hitch except for one hang-up on an unseen rock by our fearless leader; a quick recovery by Peter’s 80 had us underway again for the remainder of the five river crossings. Peter and I took our leave, at Middle Ridge Camping area, and headed for Jamieson and back to Sydney. George joined us, for the Jamieson leg, intending to rejoin the group in Mansfield. The rest of the group continued on and up Mountain Ash Road, eventually arriving at Nobs Track, via Son of a Bitch Spur Track, and stopping at an old logging campsite at 8.30pm; it was just before sunset! Sunday, January 3 – Nobs Track to Mitchells Flat (John and Norma) This day called for a most flexible approach to itineraries as routes and destinations were changed several times during

George having a tyre change the day. We set off on Nobs Track and crossed the creek seven times in 800m – a postcard photo at every crossing. As we started to climb, we came to some recent track grading. However, because of the torrential rain in the previous 48 Group on Mount Buffalo hours, this grading work had turned an “interesting” track into one which was essentially impassable; so…we backtracked (including some of the tracks of the previous afternoon), down Mt Sunday Road, past Wrens Flat to a truly great camping area on the banks of the creek at Mitchell Flat. This serene and picturesque valley had been the site of a large grazing property in the 1800s but the homestead and signs of previous occupation are long since gone. Monday, January 4 – Mitchells Flat to Binadree Hut campsite (Jeff and Sandy) All awoke to a dazzling morning. After breakfast the day’s activities started with a short bush walk; short in length but big in beauty. The narrow, daisy lined track took us to the stream filled with massive boulders and gushing cascades and underground rapids. Some of us waded through the cold water under huge overhanging rocks to see what was on the 34 TLCC NEWS APRIL 2010 THE HIGH COUNTRY

other side. Others, who didn’t want wet feet, explored and Hernes Spur found a high track. You had to be there to appreciate the water cascading through the gorge (which was on the other side). An old slate mine site provided a convenient stop to take-in the stunning clear alpine views, and a geology lesson from Diana. From here we had an easy run into Mansfield to refuel us and the vehicles. Two hours swiftly flew; we met up with George, who had decided not continue the trip, due to the damage to his vehicle. A bonus arrived! We had spare time, and so we all clambered to the 1805m summit of Mt Buller. Fabulous views and even the dandelions looked Alpine. Hillsides covered in white and yellow daisies followed us down the slopes to our campsite at Bindaree Hut on the . Tuesday, January 5 – Walk to The Bluff (Bob and Liz) And then there were five! Andrew woke to find his eyes badly inflamed and finally accepted the fact that he needed medical attention; so… for Andrew and Rob it was back to Mansfield, hopefully for only a brief visit. Meanwhile today was a rest day, if you can call it that. Phil had left this day spare to do some walking. Walking The Bluff has to be my all-time favourite walk and as I hadn’t done this track for several years I was really looking forward to it. The walk is estimated at about 4 hours return which we did comfortably even stopping for lunch. After a relatively sharp climb through stunted snow gums, we came upon the ridge leading out to The Bluff. Except for a few snowgums, we were above the tree line by now and the only vegetation was the spectacular ground cover with every coloured flower imaginable. Apart from a million flies tagging along, we were the only souls on the mountain, with views stretching forever. Little wonder, we were standing at 1726 metres. Another great opportunity for those infrequent phone calls. Phil needed a challenge for the day so he decided to up the ante by extending the walk to the end of the ridge past The Bluff trig, followed by a quick return to the cars. Not to be outdone, Norma joined in, making it in well under the specified two hours. Needless to say Norma was a tad weary that night. Philip crossing The drive back to Bindaree Hut campsite was via Bluff Link Road, with a heavy presence of the latest fires: fallen logs, blackened stumps and naked trees, interspersed with yellow fireweed. It was with some relief when we saw Andrew’s troopy Bark . . . beautiful back in camp, his eyes none the worse for wear. Wednesday January 6 – Bindaree Hut to Wonnangatta Valley (Andrew and Rob) We departed Bindaree Hut campsite about 8.30am heading for the Bluff Hut via the Bluff Link track. A stop at the Bluff Hut for some photographs seemed a good idea from the car, but once stopped, we were forced to move on due to the fly population; they were extremely bad. Lovick’s Hut was considered a better proposition for a morning tea stop (less flies). Lovick’s Hut itself is currently being reconstructed by Charlie Lovick but the progress is very slow. The King Billy Track, from the Bluff Hut was at its usual rough standard. Heading towards Howitt’s High Plain Road the high tension lead on Phil’s petrol 80 Series failed (the lead’s metal connection, TLCC NEWS APRIL 2010 35 MAKIN' TRACKS

Geoff & Sandy going up Mount Blue Rag at the coil end, became separated from the lead), and the vehicle stopped immediately. It took us a little while to find the problem and, there being no spare available, the existing lead had to be repaired and lengthened to make it work (a job well done Andrew!). The whole repair job took about 40 minutes and we were on our way to Howitt’s Hut on the High Plains Road. We then proceeded down Zeka Spur Track, which was (as usual) very rough and arrived at Wonnangatta around 5.30pm. After a welcome shower and dinner we gathered around the camp fire for some refreshments and fine singing by our female quartet; a nice finish to a great day in the High Country. Thursday, January 7 – Wonnangatta Valley to campsite (Steve and Diana) After a leisurely start to the morning we stopped at the Wonnangatta Homestead site. The beautiful surroundings were marred by the rubbish strewn around the trees and remaining hut. Several members of our group cleaned up the rubbish before we left. We then had a short stop at the Mount Blue Rag cemetery where several members of the Byrne family (the family who established the original homestead) are buried. The views were spectacular with light clouds veiling the mountain tops. As we were not short of time for today’s trip, a diversion was made along Riley’s Creek Track to Humffray River Track before reaching Herne Spur Track. This drive was very interesting with a river crossing around every bend and some very steep and rocky sections. On the Cynthia Range Track we stopped to look at the tracks we had travelled a week ago. We had basically come full circle. Continuing on Station Track brought us to Racecourse Track and our final camp of the trip. Liz and Bob treated us to a good old Aussie damper, while we sat around the campfire recalling highlights of our high country adventure. Friday, January 8 – Wongungarra River campsite to Bright (John and Norma) Our final morning was smooth scenic cruising along Going down Mount Blue Rag Racecourse Track, Track followed by Brewery Creek Track then Basalt Knob Road. Low range was required when we switched to the Blue Rag Track but when we climbed to a height of 1621m, quite close to Blue Rag Mountain, Cheryl and Phil’s car decided it was new fan belt time (new belts had been fitted in April 2009 – so always carry spares!). An hour later and we were headed out on the Blue Rag Range Track along the extremely narrow and steep spur to 1718m. A truly exhilarating drive with incredible vistas on both sides, a great drive to conclude our 4WD experience. It was all literally downhill from there. Back along the Blue Rag Range Track to the Dargo High Plains Road followed by the into Bright where we enjoyed our final happy hour at the Bogong Motel. Dinner at the Bright Hotel was the finale to two weeks of driving on some great tracks in great company. Thanks Cheryl and Phil for your superb organisation and leadership.

36 TLCC NEWS APRIL 2010