Table of Content

The Solo Snowbird ...... 5 M!Vol. 13, No. 1 Ghosts of Mazatlán...... 6 M His life is changing the life of children...... 8 Publisher New Season is here!...... 11 Guy Ismond Best Bets ...... 12

Copy Editor Business Directory...... 15 Dana Lacy Amarisa

Contributors Ana Fernandez While you are here… Olivia Guzón Simon Lynd You are going to notice some exciting changes while you are here. Like skyscrapers rising from the Malecón! And ex- citing new cultural events planned for the city. Even a new Photography futbol stadium. Everywhere you look, Mazatlán is changing. M! Magazine Staff But the ‘heart’ of a Mazatleco, that will never change. Proof is in the story of José and his wife Elizabeth. A couple Design whom have dedicated themselves for years to changing the Jorge Tirado lives of children in Centro Mazatlán. Olivia explains exactly what it was that changed the course of their lives to the Ad Sales benefit of so many. [email protected] You are going to notice exciting changes while you are here. But the one thing you will notice the most is that the kind, car- 669-240-7303 ing and compassionate heart of the Mazatleco never changes. Melchor Ocampo 1309 Centro, 82000 Mazatlán, Sin www.mmazatlan.com

M! Magazine © is published monthly from October to April by Maz-Amor Media Group. On the cover

All rights reserved 2019. Drones Mazatlán is a company created by combing the passion for technology with Total or partial reproduction of the contents the love of photography. Dedicated to is prohibited without publisher’s written video recording and aerial photography, permission. Opinions expressed herein are not necessarily those of the publisher. Drones Mazatlán creates promotional videos for businesses and captures Printed by PB Press. memories of social events from a unique perspective.

2 M! Magazine October 2019 3 THE SOLO SNOWBIRD

A Stranger in My Own Land How adapting well to living in another country By Ana Fernandez can have its drawbacks

s I stepped out of the running while waving madly exit door, the blast of at them! (Yes, I really did that.) Ahot air quickly blanket- ed me completely, and imme- And it’s not just the rules diately I felt a joyous sense of up north that are frustrating having arrived home. But not to me, because many make home in the traditional sense sense and are for our safety; of the word, such as in the it’s that there are just too darn land where I was raised, but many of them, to the point more the kind of feeling that where nothing has been left one has in your heart when to common sense. It’s all been you feel at ease and complete. legislated! It’s the same sense as when On the flip side, it is rather one falls in love or at the birth nice, when sourcing out sup- of your child. Yes, that home. plies, that they are easily lo- Of course, this feeling cated and can be sent to you didn’t suddenly come over me in no time at all using depend- this year when I returned from able delivery and online re- two months visiting my family sources. Mexico is catching up up north. Not at all. Rather, it’s in that regard but it is a slow been growing exponentially process sometimes and my over the past eight years, be- techy side can get frustrated. coming stronger to the point So, knowing that you can rely where now, although I love on certain systems and pro- visiting my family and friends, cesses does have its value, I I don’t wish to spend any more won’t deny that. time away from Mazatlán than However, all in all, at the is necessary. moment I wouldn’t trade liv- Perhaps it’s that I have ing here for the conveniences adapted too well to my com- of up north. Of course, I’m still munity here. Learning to relatively “young” and who speak Spanish enough to con- knows what lies ahead as I verse with people certainly age (a common worry for the has helped. And I can truly majority of us foreigners living say that I enjoy the sounds here), but I am willing to take (some call them noises) of the my chances on a country and street. Traffic honking, people people that I have now come to love with all my heart. Viva announcing their goods for lawnmowers during the sum- that is exactly what I got when Mexico! • sale as they pass by, children mer; and the buzz of snow- I moved to Mexico. playing on the street, random blowers in winter. No dogs fireworks displays, Banda mu- barking, no children’s voices, Here I feel truly complete. sic till the wee hours and the no one having random parties And when I am in the north, Check Ana's web- occasional barking dog (ok, at their home. In some ways it I feel like a duck out of water. site at TheSoloS- maybe that one I don’t enjoy was an ideal neighborhood for When visiting, there are many nowbird.com”. so much). I live in the down- the many that enjoy absolute rules I have to remember. Like, Ana manages two town area, so it’s always alive peace and quiet. But for me, it only crossing streets at the very popular Face- with activity. felt like I was living in a ceme- lights because you can get book groups: Mazatlán Snowbird tery. I wanted to hear life going fined for jaywalking; or that Rentals (for landlords and tenants In my previous communi- the buses won’t let you board ty up north, the only sounds I on around me, even if I wasn’t to connect) and the Mazatlán Solo directly participating in it, and even if you are just ten feet Snowbird Activity Group ever heard were the whir of the away from the stop and are

4 M! Magazine October 2019 5 Finally, In 1921, the Sociedad Alemana de Beneficencia de Mazatlán that owned the land, donated it to the government with the sole purpose of creating a park. That’s right the ceme- tery, with all the abandoned bodies became what it’s known as Plazuela Ángel Flores, where an elementary school was also built.

For many years, people who lived there didn’t know about the cemetery, until stories of ghosts walking through walls at night became more and more common. Eventually even some chil- dren at the Escuela Primaria Ángel Flores claimed to hear cries of abandonment in the halls.

The Haunted Hotel One hotel in Mazatlan is well known for being the scene of the murder of Sinaloa’s governor, a place where people claimed to hear murmurs in the walls, a shotgun at night and a little girl crying.

From 1920 to 1940, the Belmar Hotel was a spot for Hollywood stars who visited the port--John Wayne and Rita Hayward were just two of the many celebrities who stayed in what was at that point the first beachfront hotel in Mazatlan.

No one would expect that in 1944, the governor Rodolfo T. Loaiza would be murdered during a carnival ball at the hand of a man called Rodolfo Valdés, better known as “El Gitano”. Since that fateful night, it was as if a curse had been set in the hotel: there are stories about a women drowning their children in the tub, two lovers who committed suicide, and many unexplained accidents.

Even TripAdvisor has comments from people having hy- per-realistic nightmares, or hearing cries, screams and a shot- gun. ¿Do you dare check if this is true?

By Olivia Guzón The Girl In the Taxi In 1996, a fatal accident took Mazatlan by surprise, when a ou might think you know Mazatlan quite well. Maybe bus with 34 passengers tried to get ahead of a train at the Santa you have been living here for years or visiting every year, Rosa Avenue railroad crossing. Legend has it that one of the vic- but believe me, when it comes to ghost stories the port tims was a student from Universidad Autónoma de Sinaloa, who Y took the bus that terrible night. doesn’t need to rely on traditional legends like “La Llorona” to give you chills. It has its own tales, and they are even more scary Many taxi drivers have claimed to be the one who pulled over than any other you might have heard before. ¿Why? Because in front of the university to give a ride to a young lady who tells they all happened here, in your town, your streets, and that them to take the Santa Rosa Avenue. According to the stories, means they might happen again… maybe to you. her face is pale with fear, and as the taxi gets closer to railroad crossing she gets more and more nervous. When the driver asks what’s wrong, she starts crying saying she wants to live, and just when the taxi crosses the railroad the woman screams and Dead People In the Park disappears.

During the 19th century, the land located between Teniente These might be just stories, legends created for fun, no more Azueta street, Leandro Valle, Antonio Rosales and Genero Estrada than entertainment for a dark and spooky night. Or maybe, just street became a graveyard, known for being the last place of rest maybe, it might be that the dead are trying to tell us something… for non catholic people. In 1851, It became the first official ceme- that there is no happy ending for them. • tery in Mazatlán, also known as “Panteón No. 1”, but by 1870 the place was already abandoned and closed to new burials.

6 M! Magazine October 2019 7 PROFILE

His Life Is Changing

the Lives of Children José and Elizabeth do not get paid for their work; neither do the teachers By Olivia Guzón who have joined their cause.

his is the story of José lán A.C., a civil association to Sánchez Rivera, a man prevent kids from growing up T who realized at young in ignorance and violence. age that if he wanted change in the world, he had to be that “Everybody talks about vi- change. So, he started with his olence and its effects, but no own town. one talks about its cause. We wanted people to react to this All his life he lived in good situation so they would stop neighborhoods in Mazatlán, the cycle of violence,” he ex- he was part of a middle-class plained. family and went to a good pri- vate school. He lived in what So, Elizabeth and he started we like to call in Mexico, “a reading sessions at Elizabeth’s pink world,” a place where house, located in the Francisco kids have good clothes good Villa neighborhood, one of the homes, good food, good par- most violent places in Mazat- ents and a good education. lán. There, they read books to kids and asked them to talk But this world collapsed about what they would like child prostitution, you name joined their cause. If you feel when his family’s financial sit- to be when they grew up. But it, and parents sometimes ar- compelled to help continue uation changed. Suddenly he their answers left the young en’t on our side,” he said. their mission you can donate was studying at a public high couple shocked. books and musical instru- After a few months a new school and his classmates had ments, especially wind instru- opportunity came along. He problems he never thought “I felt so much despair ments, as they are preparing had a chance to meet the gov- were possible in Mazatlán. when the children told us to start a new project called they wanted to be hitmen or ernor of Sinaloa and ask him “Bandas de Paz”, a march- “I went to my schoolmates’ soldiers to kill the men who for a new place for their proj- ing band formed by students houses and saw how they lived killed their fathers. And not ect: a medical center nearby of different schools around and realized I was living in a only that, when we asked the area, that was abandoned the neighborhood to promote bubble, that my reality was them to put it on paper, they because it tends to get flood- peace in the community. • not the reality of the country drew guns and murders,” he ed. And he got it. and that none of my friends in said, still shocked. To donate or learn more Now, Casa de la Cultura my neighborhood understood about Reacciona Mazatlán A.C. Juan Rulfo is located at Tiro Cu- that feeling,” said José, now 38 A year later, Elizabeth and and Casa de la Cultura Juan ates Street, in the Francisco Vil- years old. he rented a house in the same Rulfo go to https://reacciona- area with their own money so la neighborhood, and it helps mazatlan1.wixsite.com/reac- He became interested in the they could help more children. more than 50 children who can cionamazatlan or e-mail reac- news, he read a ton of books, They called it Casa de la Cul- enjoy free music, dance, arts [email protected]. got a communications degree tura Juan Rulfo, in honor of the and crafts lessons, as well as in Universidad Autónoma de Mexican writer. reading sessions and academic Olivia Guzón is a journalist. She Sinaloa and eventually became help. Sadly, the place continues has worked and collaborated an activist for children. “It’s so hard to keep these to flood and recently they lost kids off the streets. There are hundreds of books. with newspapers like EL NORTE In 2012, he met Elizabeth things going on in that neigh- in Monterrey, from Grupo REFOR- Páez Zatarain, who later would borhood that would sadden José and Elizabeth do not MA, and Noroeste, in Mazatlán. become his wife, and together most people: drugs, alcohol, get paid for their work; nei- She also teaches at TecMilenio they created Reacciona Mazat- ther do the teachers who have university.

8 M! Magazine October 2019 9 BOOSTER CLUB

NEW BASEBALL SEASON IS HERE! Plus! The Venados announce a free entrance By Simon Lynds "WCL All Star" Game!

oach and legend Juan diverse attendance of their This has been host a public baseball José Pacho returns to season to date! made possible with Try Out! lead captain Brian Her- the support of DIF C The agreement was spear- Judged by the own- nandez and the Venados ros- Sinaloa, the Mayor of ter into an exciting new LMP headed by DIF Sinaloa, the Mazatlan, the office of ers and coaches of season. Venados owners and Interna- the Institute of Cultu- the Venados and the tional marketing team in con- ra, Tourism and Art di- Portland Pickles, the The 2019/20 LMP baseball junction with Rob Neyer the rector Jose Angel Tost- best of the competi- season opening home game “WCL” commissioner and Alan ado, and artistic director Zoila tion will win a place will take place on Saturday Miller & Jon Ryan (Seattle Sea- Fernandez. on the Pickles roster for the October 12 when the Venados hawks Super Bowl Champion), 2020 season. will play the Tomateros, the co – owners of the Portland The performance will be LMP 2018/19 quarter finalists Pickles. directed by Maria Murillo and Next step will be the op- will feature approximately portunity for them to go on to The league is expanding The “WCL” is a wonderful eighty vocalists! qualify for a baseball scholar- from an 8 to a 10 team ros- platform for “potential next ship in ! ter, with the inclusion of the generation” MLB players PLUS Aside from the opportu- Sultanes de Monterrey & Al- the league boasts a 500,000 nities that the partnership The winner of the Try Out godoneros de Guasave, prom- F&F base that spans a number provides, the WCL “All Stars” will be announced at the Ve- ising to make this coming of key demographics in key game represents a very real nados versus Portland Pick- season the most competitive Mazatlan tourism markets. competitive challenge to the les WCL “All Star” game on ever! Venados in their final Pre - Wednesday October 9th! This has also led to the po- season game and it promises Sport is a bridge builder on Meanwhile, the Venados, in tential reboot of the Mazatlan to be one not to be missed! association with DIF Sianloa, sister city program with sport a national and Internation- have been working on a num- as the key driver! AND ITS FREE! al level and the Venados are ber of International sports led developing a sports franchise marketing initiatives designed To launch the partnership WEDNESDAY OCTOBER 9th that incorporates Baseball, to develop relationships that in Mazatlan, the Venados will, at the TEODORO MARISCAL , Athletics, Soccer, can help have a positive im- on Wednesday October 9th, STADIUM (Gates Open at 5pm) Boxing, Golf and Water Sports. host, in association with DIF pact on Mazatlan tourism and To celebrate this unique oc- The Venados are in the investment. Sinaloa, the best of the West Coast baseball league “WCL” casion, the Venados, in associ- DNA of Mazatlan and will The first of these is with led by the Portland Pickles - in ation with DIF Sinaloa, are not continue to help create brand the Portland Pickles and the a Winner takes all! Tri Flag “All charging for entrance! and sports excellence, NFP Star” game! and tourism marketing part- “WCL” of YEP! ITS FREE TO GET IN! the USA and Canada nerships that will help fur- This is the first time the ther develop an International Tickets will not be issued Venados has ever welcomed presence for our wonderful In June 2019, the Vena- and seating will be on a first a team from a combined USA City! dos and the Portland Pickles come basis (Season ticket seat- and Canadian league. launched a media campaign ing not valid for this game) promoting friendship in sport Exciting times ahead for The “All Star” team will the Venados and Mazatlan! A further major develop- consist of players from the The strategy incorporated ment in the partnership, is the “WCL”, representing the states SEE YOU AT THE BALL TV, Radio, Magazines, Social announcement that the Port- of British Columbia, Oregon GAME! Media and Pod casts that de- land Pickles will be sponsor- and Washington. livered over 1,000,000 impres- ing a youth from Mazatlan to Yo Soy Venados! sions and culminated in the This historical event will play in next summer seasons Pickles playing a league game * Food and Beverages will present the Coro Angela Peral- “WCL”! in the Venados signature jer- be available for purchase In - ta performing, for the first time seys at a branded Mazatlan On the morning of Tuesday stadium (F&B from outside is ever, the national anthems of “In – stadium” festival, that October 8th the Venados will not permitted) • attracted the largest and most Canada, USA and Mexico!

10 M! Magazine October 2019 11 7 12 El Chelo Musical Concert, Your Venados Opening Game Voice in The 21ST Century The 2019/20 LMP baseball season opening home game This cello concert aims to will take place on Saturday open a door to the music that October 12 when the Venados is composed today. Natalia will play the Tomateros, the Pérez Turner seems mired in an LMP 2018/19 quarter finalists eternal battle with the cello, her instrument of life. She and it, The league is expanding from on stage, merge and establish a an 8 to a 10 team roster, with unique communication, which the inclusion of the Sultanes 2019 is evident in those serious, de Monterrey & Algodoneros sweet or aggressive sounds, de Guasave, promising to October then strange, and that speak of make this coming season the search to which this artist the most competitive ever! ARTWALK IN CENTRO HISTÓRICO has submerged through the years. The sound of her cello Starting its 12th anniversary, has been based on the music this event has become a of Jorge Calleja, Gustavo Jacob, monthly tradition from and Alex Otaola, among others. 14 November to April. It’s free ARTWALK IN GOLDEN ZONE Interpreter: Natalia Pérez Turner. self-guided walking tour of Canadian Thanksgiving! artist studios and galleries in The event that capture the Location: Casa Haas This season is kicking off with Mazatlán’s Centro Histórico, hearts of art lovers in Centro Cost: Free an awesome Thanksgiving intended to showcase the visual Histórico now initiates it first dinner in several places arts and artists in downtown, year along the street Playa here in Mazatlán. As usual, provide a free and accessible Gaviotas, in Golden Zone, Twisted Mamas is serving walking tour for residents and specifically from Mazatlan4Rent up a tasty homemade buffet visitors as a way to meet the agency, where organizer style turkey dinner. For artists and present a venue for Lisa Burt will showcase her reservations call 669 276 0677 artists to show and sell their paintings, to The Shrimp artwork. Definitely a do not Factory, a nice 20/30 minutes 9 If you’d rather celebrate in missed! You’ll find the print walk featuring several artists, WCL All Stars Game the Centro Histórico area, program all around Centro photographers, designers and Macaws is also offering Histórico, and you can identify more. What a great way to Venados vs Pickles a delicious Thanksgiving the participant galleries by a spend an afternoon and enjoy WCL All Star game Dinner on the 14th. Call banner outside. FREE ENTRANCE amazing conversations within Gates Open 5pm 981 6180 for reservations. / 4:00 PM to 8:00 PM / More the art community in Mazatlán. FREE ENTRANCE information at (669) 981.10.10. FREE ENTRANCE / 2:00 PM to NO TICKETS REQUIRED 6:00 PM / More information on (season tickets not valid Facebook @artwalk.goldenzone. for pre season games) 25 Venados Golf Tournament

October 25, 2019 2 Estrella Del Mar Golf Course La Tercera es la Vencida Tickets available at Centro: Casa de Lleyendas The third symphonies of many Venustiano Carranza #4, composers have had a special Centro. Phone 981 6180 meaning, the most notable example is that of Beethoven, which marks a before and after in the history of music, nothing was the same after this formidable score, music took another direction

Director Héctor Javier Reyes and its members delight us with a concert in the Ángela Peralta Theater.

12 M! Magazine October 2019 13 Your handy-dandy Mazatlán resource guide! One low price of PROFILE $2,000 pesos gets you a listing for the entire season in print M! Business Directory and a year online too. Want to know more? Email us at mztmx@ me.com or call (669) 240 73 03

AA Group Design Real Estate

AA…Back 2 Basics Group CLOSED AA Meet- Come visit our new Art and furnishings gal- Mazatlan4Sale, Premier Real Estate Brokerage. ing EVERY Friday at noon, year-round, at the lery in our Mazatlan4Sale offices. Exclusive Located in Golden Zone Playa Gaviotas #439, Melville Hotel, #99 Constitution, Centro. Con- designs of authentic Oaxacan rugs, local in-front of Holiday Inn. Experience locally and tacts: Bob, 669-117-6112, [email protected]; artists exhibits and high end furnishings. in US for over 33 years in Real Estate and Prop- Denny, 669-116-5398, barrattdennis@gmail. We also present the Golden Zone ARTWALK erty Management for residential properties com. once a month with many local artists. of- and Home Staging. [email protected] [email protected] 669 913 6408 360 669 913 6408 360 326 8769 Appliances 326 8769

Mazatlán Appliances & Services Large se- Get-Aways EVA PRATT REALTY Buying or selling Real Es- tate in Centro? As an experienced and knowl- lection of home & commercial appliances. La Rosa de Las Barras “Intimate Beachfront edgeable Realtor, I can help you navigate a safe Guaranteed low prices, prompt service! Call Retreat.” A private México vacation on a and successful transaction. Let’s get started us: 182-7737 or visit showroom at Ave. Carlos beautiful secluded beach, one hour north today! Eva Pratt (669) 270 6755 Conseco #6077, across from Marina Hospital. of Mazatlán near Las Labradas petroglyphs. [email protected] Cell: 696-102-5001, www.larosadelasbarras. Beauty Salon / Spa com.

Tippy Toes Salon & Spa Full-service salon: Tours hair, nails, facials, massage & more. Quality Handyman products and autoclave sterilization! Sixto Sinaloa Adventures DMC. Established Tour Osuna #115, Olas Altas, across from Art Mu- Operator, 20 years experience, Certified seum. 981-3463, www.tippytoesmaz.com A to Z Services “One Call Can Solve All!” Ex- Touring Vehicles, Licensed Tour Guides, Daily perienced plumber, tiler, metal work, floor Tours, Tailor Made Excursions, Airport Trans- polishing, project & property managing. En- fers. Unforgettable Experiences!!! Call 669 Hugo Galvan Studio - We are a full service glish speaking, 27 years in Mazatlán. Cell: 191 2005/669 129 4857 sinaloaadventures@ hair salon. Our only objective is customer 669 102-6662, [email protected]. gmail.com satisfaction. Professional and express ser- vices for men and woman. Located inside Onca Explorations, swimming with dolphins La Gran Plaza. Call Hugo 669 983 4782 for Insurance in the wild, whale watching, snorkel, kayak English. and more, we help travelers live epic experi- ences, explore new places, meet new people Juan Chong Insurance “Reliable Service for and connect with nature while getting in- All Your Insurance Needs.” Office: 669-982- volved in conservation projects and citizen 0260, Cell: 6699-18-2504. Vonage: 619-488- Business/ Professional Advice science expeditions throughout Mazatlan 3717. Calle 5 de Mayo #2214, (bet. Zaragoza and other ecoregions. Tel. (669) 913.40.50 / & Luis Zuniga) Centro Historico.juanfchong@ Kelly Consultores. Specializing in fideicom- (669) 116.03.01 www.oncaexplorations.com isos, business set-up, accounting, legal, labor, gmail.com tax & immigration matters. 30 years exp. Ro- dolfo or Suelen Kelly. Office: Guillermo Nel- Vacation Rentals / son 100-108, across from cathedral, Centro. Medical Services Property Management 985-5020. [email protected], Air evacuation insurance. GUARANTEED AC- Mazatlan4Rent Experience Mazatlan’s finest [email protected] CEPTANCE for everyone under 85 & all stable selection of properties for your next vacation. pre-existing conditions automatically cov- Proudly representing the professional needs ered. NO WAITING PERIODS! of our clients and their beautiful homes. Ave. RETURN to your home country with an af- Craft Sale Playa Gaviotas 439A, Zona Dorada office@ fordable Travel MedEvac insurance policy! www.medevacmazatlan.com mazatlan4rent.com 669 913 1830 CRAFT, FOOD & BAKE SALE starting No- OCCAN PROPERTIES A vacation home man- vember 14 9am to Noon every Wednesday. agement company that is small enough to Home &/or hand made pickles, pies, muf- Open-Air Taxi fins, cookies, comfort food. Great crafts, care, but big enough to make a difference. jewelry, greeting cards, gently used items & Tony’s Pulmonia BILINGUAL, 20 YEARS Now accepting Oceanfront and Marina prop- much more. La Catrina Restaurant, on the SAFE & COURTEOUS DRIVING, AVAILABLE erties! It’s time you experience complete corner across from Luna Palace. 24/7. (Taxi Service, Shopping, City Tours, Er- peace-of-mind. [email protected] rands, Handyman). Cell: 6691-10-5864. Ph. 669-533-0950 www.occanproperties.com

Dental Organic Farmers Market Veterinarian Dr. Francisco Bouttier General Dentistry. Paws of Love is your full service veterinari- GOOD PRICES! We’ll come pick you up for Local produce, dairy, baked goods and oth- an clinic offering such services as: Consulta- your first appt! Phone 669 982 4767 / 24 er items. Saturday 8am-Noon, Zaragoza tions, X-Rays, Ultrasound, Vaccines, Groom- hours & emergencies. Excellent reviews. Park, Centro Histórico. Nov-April. Info: 669- ing, Surgery, Dental Cleaning, Pet Food and English spoken. Rio Baluarte #139 Near the 116-3297. Facebook: Mercado Orgánico de Accessories. 669 161 9855 or mvzineslovi@ Aquarium. [email protected] Mazatlán hotmail.com Open 10AM to 6PM - English Spoken.

14 M! Magazine October 2019 15 16 M! Magazine