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25_588990 bindex.qxp 12/17/05 12:42 AM Page 323

Index

See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.

GENERAL INDEX Admiralty (St. Petersburg), 186 American Medical Center Agate Pavilion (Tsarskoye , 74 Selo), 286 American Medical Center Abim Art (St. Petersburg), Airfares St. Petersburg, 202 263 surfing for, 29 AM Rent (Moscow), 73 Access-Able Travel Source, 25 tips for getting the best, Ananov (St. Petersburg), 266 Access America, 21 37–38 Andropov, Yuri, 295 Accommodations. See also Airlines, 36, 45 Anglia British Bookshop Accommodations Index bankruptcy and, 38 (St. Petersburg), 264 best, 5–6 long-haul flights, 38–40 Angliiskaya Naberezhnya Moscow, 79–96 Airplane (Samolyot; Moscow), (English Embankment; near the airport, 96 173 St. Petersburg), 269 Arbat, 89–91 Airport security, 36–37 Angliisky Podvorye (English family-friendly hotels, 84 Air Tickets Direct, 38 Courtyard; Moscow), around the Kremlin and Akhmatova, Anna, 311 143, 165 , 79–83 Aktsia (Moscow), 153 Anna Akhmatova outside the , Akunin, Boris, 311 (St. Petersburg), 251 93–95 Akvarel (St. Petersburg), 275 Antikvariat na Bronnoi Petrovka and the Ukrain- Akvatoria (St. Petersburg), 279 (Moscow), 153 ian Quarter, 87–89 Alexander Gardens (Alexan- Antiques and collectibles prices for foreigners, 85 drovsky Sad; Moscow), Moscow, 152–153 south of Moscow River, 54, 127 St. Petersburg, 263 91–93 Alexander I, 294 Apartment rentals, 47 Tverskaya and environs, Alexander II, 294, 298 Apraksin Dvor (St. Petersburg), 84–87 Alexander III, 294 262, 265 St. Petersburg, 206–218 Alexander Nevsky Monastery Apshu (Moscow), 169 near the airport, 218 and Cemetery (Lavra Alek- Arbat District (Moscow), 55, 67 around the Hermitage, sandra Nevskogo; accommodations, 89–91 207–210 St. Petersburg), 241 restaurants, 114–115 family-friendly, 210 Alexandrinsky Theater (St. shopping, 151 floor monitors, 214 Petersburg), 269, 272 Archangel Gabriel, Church of Lower Nevsky to Smolny Alfa-Art (Moscow), 153 the (Moscow), 146 Cathedral, 212–215 Alla Art Agency (St. Peters- Archangel Michael, Cathedral South of Nevsky, burg), 259 of the (Moscow), 120 215–216 All-Russian Exhibition Center Archangel Michael, Church of Upper Nevsky Prospekt, (Moscow), 136 the (Arkhangelskoye), 182 210–212COPYRIGHTEDAmbassador (St. Petersburg), MATERIALArchitecture, best, 7–8 Vasilevsky and the 279 Aristocratic estates, Moscow, Petrograd Side, Amber House (Yantarny Dom; 136–137 217–218 St. Petersburg), 263 Arkhangelskoye, 181–182 surfing for, 30–32 (), Armed Forces Day (Defenders tips on, 46–49 284, 285 of the Motherland Day), 18 Vladimir and Suzdal, 180 American Express The Armory Museum (Moscow), Addresses, finding, 67 Moscow, 73 8, 122 Admiralty (Admiralteistvo; St. Petersburg, 201 Aromatny Mir (Moscow), 158 St. Petersburg), 240 traveler’s checks, 15 25_588990 bindex.qxp 12/17/05 12:42 AM Page 324

324 INDEX

Art and architecture, 307–309 Belochka (St. Petersburg), 265 Bus travel Art galleries Bi-Ba-Bo (Moscow), 173 Moscow, 62, 70 Moscow, 153 Biblio-Globus (Moscow), 153 to , 41, 45–46 St. Petersburg, 263 Bidding-For-Travel, 29 St. Petersburg, 193 Art Garbage (Moscow), 168 Biking, St. Petersburg, 252 Butter Week (Maslenitsa), Art market (Moscow), 153 Billiards, St. Petersburg, 17–19 Art Market (St. Petersburg), 279–280 Bvlgari (Moscow), 156 263 Bitsevsky Park (Moscow), 140 Art MUSEON (Moscow), Blockade (St. Peters- 9, 130–131 burg), 245 CafeMax (Moscow), 75 Art museums Boar House (Moscow), 170 Café Max (St. Petersburg), 202 Moscow Boating Calendar, 300 Central House of Artists, Moscow, 139 Capital Tours (Moscow), 139 134 St. Petersburg, 252–253 Car rentals, 45 Museum of Private Boat tours and cruises, 44 for disabled travelers, 25 Collections, 133 Kronshtadt, 288 Moscow, 73 New / Peterhof, 282–283 St. Petersburg, 201 Museum of Modern St. Petersburg, 191, 193, 252 Cartier (Moscow), 156 Art, 134 Tsarskoye Selo, 284 Car travel, 41, 45 of Fine Body and Soul (Dusha I Telo; Moscow, 62, 73 Arts, 133 Moscow), 171 St. Petersburg, 193 Tretyakov Gallery Boingo, 33 Casinos, St. Petersburg, 279 (Tretyakovskaya Bolshoi Theater (Moscow), Cathedral of Dmitry (Vladimir), Galereya), 8, 55, 5, 160–161, 165 179 131, 133, 156 Books, recommended, 49–51 Cathedral of Our Lady of St. Petersburg Bookstores Smolensk (Moscow), 127 Pushkinskaya 10, 246 Moscow, 153 Cathedral of the Annunciation Russian Museum (Russky St. Petersburg, 264 (Moscow), 120 Muzei), 244 , 176, 293, 294 Cathedral of the Archangel The State Hermitage Botanical Gardens (Botanich- Michael (Moscow), 120 Museum. See State esky Sad; Moscow), 136 Cathedral of the Assumption The Ring (Moscow), 121 Art Nouveau (Style Moderne), (Moscow), 68 Cathedral of the Assumption 308 Bowling (Sergiev Posad), 176 Arts and Crafts movement, 308 Moscow, 173 Cathedral of the Assumption Astoria (St. Petersburg), 279 St. Petersburg, 279 (Vladimir), 179 ATMs (automated teller Brezhnev, Leonid, 295, 300 Cathedral of the Trinity machines), 14 Bridges, St. Petersburg, 194 (Sergiev Posad), 176 Autumn Marathon Jazz Festival British-American Family Prac- Cathedral of the Twelve Apos- (St. Petersburg), 273 tice and Urgent Care tles (Moscow), 122 Avante-Garde movement, 308 (St. Petersburg), 202 Cathedrals of Kitai-Gorod Avis Rent a Car, 25, 45 (Medny (Moscow), 57 Avrora, Cruiser (St. Peters- Vsadnik; St. Petersburg), Cathedral Square (Sobornaya burg), 249 186, 248 Ploshchad; Moscow), 120 B-2 (Moscow), 168 Catherine II (The Great), 294 Bucket shops, 37–38 Catherine’s (Yekaterin- Babushkas, 70 Buddhist Temple (Budisky sky Dvorets; Tsarskoye Selo), Ballet, 160, 161, 269, 272, 307 Khram; St. Petersburg), 241 285, 286 Banyas (bath houses), 4, 141 Budget Rent-a-Car Caviar Bars, 170–171 (Moscow), 73 Moscow, 153–154 St. Petersburg, 277–278 Budget Travel, 43 St. Petersburg, 264 Baza (Moscow), 171 Bulgakov, Mikhail, 311 Cellphones, 33–35 BB King (Moscow), 169 Bunker (Moscow), 168 Centers for Disease Control Bed and breakfasts (B&Bs), 47 Buryan space shuttle and Prevention, 23 Bee-Line, 34 (Moscow), 9 Centers for Disease Control Beer Barrel (Pivnaya Bochka; Business hours International Traveler’s St. Petersburg), 278 Moscow, 73 Hotline, 205 Belazh (St. Petersburg), 263 St. Petersburg, 201 25_588990 bindex.qxp 12/17/05 12:42 AM Page 325

GENERAL INDEX 325

Central Bus Terminal (Tsen- Church of the Transfiguration Dary Morya (Moscow), 153 tralny Avtovokzal; (Peredelkino), 184 Davranov Travel, 252, 282, 284, Moscow), 62 City Bar (St. Petersburg), 277 288 Central House of Artists (Tsen- City Children’s Hospital no. 1 Day of Reconciliation and tralny Dom Khudozhnika; (St. Petersburg), 202 Accord, 20 Moscow), 134, 153 City Realty, 48 Deep vein thrombosis, Central Library (Vyborg), 290 City Taxi (Moscow), 73 24, 39–40 Central Moscow Tourist Club, Classica (St. Petersburg), 266 Defenders of the Motherland 140 Classical music, 307 Day (Armed Forces Day), 18 Chaliapin House Museum Moscow, 164–165 Dentists (Moscow), 164–165 St. Petersburg, 273 Moscow, 74 Chaplin Club (St. Petersburg), Clean Ponds (Chistiye Prudy; St. Petersburg, 201 277 Moscow), 68 Detsky Mir (Moscow), 154 Che (Moscow), 167 Cleansing Day, 17 DHL Chechnya, 26–27, 301 Club and music scene, St. Moscow, 150 Chekhov, Anton, 311 Petersburg, 274–277 St. Petersburg, 258 Chekhov House Museum Club XIII (Moscow), 167 The Diamond Fund (Moscow), (Moscow), 137 Coat check at museums, 134 122 Chernenko, Konstantin, 295 Columned Hall (Kolonny Zal; Digital cameras, 40 Cherry Orchard Arts Festival Moscow), 164 Dinamo Stadium (Moscow), (Moscow), 160 Conservatory (Moscow), 170 142 Chesma Cathedral and Consolidators, 37–38 Dining. See also Restaurant Monastery (St. Petersburg), Constitution Day, 20 Index 241 Constructivists, 308 Arkhangelskoye, 182 Children, families with Consulates, St. Petersburg, 202 best, 6–7 information and resources, 28 Convention centers, Moscow, Kronshtadt, 289 Moscow 73–74 Moscow, 97–117 hotels, 84 Cosmic (Moscow), 173 Arbat District, 114–115 restaurants, 108 Cosmos Tours, 43 business lunches, 98 shopping, 154, 157 Crafts, Moscow, 154 by cuisine, 98–99 sights and attractions, Credit cards, 15–16 family-friendly, 108 138–139 Cross-country skiing, Moscow, beyond the Garden Ring, St. Petersburg attractions, 139–140 115–117 251–252 Crown of Monomakh (Shapka Petrovka and the Ukrain- China and porcelain, St. Peters- Monomakha; Moscow), 120 ian Quarter, 109–112 burg, 265 Cruiser Avrora (St. Petersburg), sushi, 107 Chinese Pilot Jao Da (Moscow), 249 Tverskaya and environs, 169 Cruise ships, 41–42 104–109 Chistiye Prudy (Clean Ponds; CSKA Sports Complex vegetarian, 103 Moscow), 68, 146 (Moscow), 142 Zamoskvarechye, Chocolate, St. Petersburg, 265 Currency and currency 112–113 Christmas, Russian exchange, 13–14 Pavlovsk, 287–288 Orthodox, 16 Moscow, 74, 83 Peterhof, 284 Christ the Savior Cathedral St. Petersburg, 201 around Red Square and the (Khram Khrista Spasitelya; Customs regulations, 11–13 Kremlin, 99–104 Moscow), 58, 127 Cynic (Tsynik; St. Petersburg), St. Petersburg, 219–233 Churches, visiting, 129 276 by cuisine, 219–220 Church of St. Theodore Cyril and Methodius Monument family-friendly, 226 Stratilites (Moscow), 146 (Moscow), 144 Lower Nevsky Prospekt up Church of the Archangel Czar Bell (Moscow), 122 to Smolny Cathedral, Gabriel (Moscow), 146 Czar Cannon (Moscow), 122 227–228 Church of the Archangel around Palace Square Michael (Arkhangelskoye), and the Hermitage, 182 Dance clubs and discos 221–224 Church of the Deposition of Moscow, 166–168 South of Nevsky, the Robe (Moscow), 120–121 St. Petersburg, 275 229–231 Church of the Savior on the Dance performances Square of the Arts up to Spilled Blood (Tserkov Spa- Moscow, 160–161, 164 Summer Gardens, sitelya Na Krovi; St. Peters- St. Petersburg, 269, 272 226–227 burg), 190, 242, 256 25_588990 bindex.qxp 12/17/05 12:42 AM Page 326

326 INDEX

Dining (cont.) Eliseyevsky Gastronom Folk and alternative music Upper Nevsky Prospekt, (Moscow), 155 clubs, St. Petersburg, 276 224–226 Eliseyevsky Gastronome Fontanka River (St. Petersburg), Vasilevsky Island and the (St. Petersburg), 266 190 Petrograd Side, Elizabeth I, 294 Food, 303 231–233 Embassies, 74 Food stores, Moscow, 155 Sergiev Posad, 177 Emergencies, 75 Forgiveness Day, 17 Tsarskoye Selo, 286 St. Petersburg, 202 Fortuna (St. Petersburg), 279 Vladimir and Suzdal, 180–181 English Courtyard (Angliisky Frequent-flier clubs, 38 Vyborg, 291 Podvorye; Moscow), 143, 165 Frigate Tours, 284, 288 Disabilities, travelers with, 25 English Embankment (Angli- Furs, Moscow, 156 Discount shopping iskaya Naberezhnya; Moscow, 154 St. Petersburg), 269 St. Petersburg, 265 Entry requirements, 10–11 Gagarin, Yuri, 132 Discrimination, 25 Escorted Russian Tours, 44 The Gagarin Monument DLT (St. Petersburg), 265 Escorted tours, 43–45 (Moscow), 130 Doctors Etiquette and customs, 306 Gallery D-137 (St. Petersburg), Moscow, 74 Euromed (St. Petersburg), 202 264 St. Petersburg, 202 European Medical Center Garden Dom Knigi (House of Books) (Moscow), 74 (Moscow), 67 Moscow, 153 Euthimiev Monastery-Fortress Gate Church of the Interces- St. Petersburg, 256, 264 (Suzdal), 179–180 sion (Moscow), 127 Domodedovo Airport Expedia, 29, 32 Gay and lesbian travelers (Moscow), 61–62 Extreme weather exposure, 23 information and resources, Dostoyevsky, Fyodor, 297, 310 Eyeglass repair, Moscow, 75 25–27 Dostoyevsky House Museum Moscow nightlife, 171 (St. Petersburg), 250 St. Petersburg nightlife, Dowager Empress Rooms Fabrique (Moscow), 167 278–279 (Pavlovsk), 287 Families with children General Staff Building (Gener- Drawbridges, St. Petersburg, information and resources, 28 alny Shtab; St. Petersburg), 194 Moscow 239 Driving St. (Progonnaya Ulitsa; hotels, 84 Gifts and souvenirs, Moscow, Vyborg), 290 restaurants, 108 156 Dusha I Telo (Body and Soul; shopping, 154, 157 Gogol, Nikolai, 310 Moscow), 171 sights and attractions, statues of (Moscow), 68 DVK (Dom Voyennykh Knig; 138–139 Golden Gates (Vladimir), 179 St. Petersburg), 264 St. Petersburg attractions, Gorbachev, Mikhail, 295, 300 Dvor (St. Petersburg), 275 251–252 Gorbunov House of Culture Dvortsovaya Naberezhnaya Farmers’ markets, St. Peters- (Moscow), 168 (Vodokhod company; St. burg, 262 Gorbushka (Moscow), 157 Petersburg), 252, 282 Fashions (clothing) Gorky Park (Park Kultury i Otd- Dvortsovaya Ploshchad (Palace Moscow, 154–155 kykha Imeni M. Gorkovo; Square; St. Petersburg), 7–8, St. Petersburg, 265 Moscow), 58, 134–135, 140 185, 254–255 Figure skating, St. Petersburg, Gostiny Dvor Shopping Arcade restaurants around, 221–224 254 (St. Petersburg), 190, 257, sights and attractions around, Film, flying with, 40 262, 265 238–241 Finland Station (Finlandsky Gothic bridge (Arkhangel- Vokzal; St. Petersburg), 193 skoye), 182 Fishfabrique (St. Petersburg), Grand Cascade (Peterhof), 283 Easter, Orthodox, 19–20 276–277 Grand Hotel Europe (St. Peters- Easter Arts Festival (Moscow), Fishing burg), 257 20, 160 Moscow, 140 The Eastern Tours, 43 St. Petersburg, 253 (Moscow), 122 Eclectica (St. Petersburg), 252 FlyCheap, 38 Grand Palace (St. Petersburg), Economy-class syndrome, Folk and alternative music, 262 24, 39–40 Moscow, 169 Grand Palace (Veliky Dvorets; Electricity, 33, 74, 202 Pavlovsk), 287 25_588990 bindex.qxp 12/17/05 12:42 AM Page 327

GENERAL INDEX 327

Great Depression (St. Peters- Petrovka and the Ukrain- International Women’s Day, 19 burg), 277 ian Quarter, 87–89 Internet access, 32–33 Great Hall (Tsarskoye Selo), prices for foreigners, 85 Moscow, 75 286 south of Moscow River, St. Petersburg, 202 Great Palace (Peterhof), 283 91–93 InTouch USA, 34 Green Dining Room (Tsarskoye Tverskaya and environs, Intourist, 63 Selo), 286 84–87 Moscow, 139 Gregorian calendar, 300 St. Petersburg, 206–218 Sergiev Posad, 175 Greshniki (Sinners; St. Peters- near the airport, 218 Suzdal, 178 burg), 278–279 around the Hermitage, INTRAV, 28 GUM (Moscow), 207–210 IPass, 33 54, 151–152, 154 family-friendly, 210 Isaakevsky Sobor (St. Isaac’s Gyms floor monitors, 214 Cathedral; St. Petersburg), Moscow, 140 Lower Nevsky to Smolny 186, 242–243 St. Petersburg, 253 Cathedral, 212–215 Itineraries, suggested, 52–60 Gzhel (Moscow), 154 South of Nevsky, best of Moscow in 1 day, 215–216 52–55 Upper Nevsky Prospekt, best of Moscow in 2 days, Hare’s Island (Zaichy Ostrov; 210–212 55–57 St. Petersburg), 240 Vasilevsky Island and the best of Moscow in 3 days, Health concerns, 22–24 Petrograd Side, 57–60 Health insurance, 21 217–218 St. Petersburg, 185–191 Helikon Opera (Moscow), 165 surfing for, 30–32 Itravelnet.com, 29 Help (Moscow), 170 tips on, 46–49 i2roam, 33 The Hermitage (St. Petersburg), Vladimir and Suzdal, 180 Ivan III (The Great), 293, 294 8, 42, 185–186, 234–235, 238 Hotels.com, 32 Ivan IV (Ivan the Terrible), accommodations around, Hotwire, 29, 32 293, 294, 301 207–210 Ivan the Great Bell Tower restaurants around, 221–224 (Moscow), 120 Hermitage Museum Store IAMAT (International Associa- Izmailovsky Market (Vernisazh; (St. Petersburg), 264 tion for Medical Assistance Moscow), 154 Hermitage Theater (St. Peters- to Travelers), 23 Izmailovsky Park (Moscow), burg), 272 Ice Palace (Ledovy Dvorets; 135, 151 Hertz (Moscow), 73 St. Petersburg), 254 Hiking, Moscow, 140 Ice skating History, 292–302 Moscow, 140 Jakata (St. Petersburg), 275 Hockey St. Petersburg, 253 Jazz and blues clubs Moscow, 142 Icons, 307–308 Moscow, 169 St. Petersburg, 254 St. Petersburg, 266 St. Petersburg, 276 Holidays, 75, 202 Icons, Russian Orthodox, 150 Jazz Art Club (Moscow), 169 Holy Gates (Arkhangelskoye), Igor Chapurin Boutique Jet lag, 39 182 (Moscow), 155 Jewelry Homestays, 47–48 Independence Day, Russian, 20 Moscow, 156 Hospitals In-line skating, Moscow, 140 St. Petersburg, 266 Moscow, 75 Insurance, 21–22, 38 Jews, 58, 133, 244, 298 St. Petersburg, 202 International Association for JFC (St. Petersburg), 276 Host Families Association, 48 Medical Assistance to Travel- Jimi Hendrix Blues Club Hotels. See also Accommoda- ers (IAMAT), 23 (St. Petersburg), 276 tions Index International Film Center Jogging best, 5–6 (Moscow), 171 Moscow, 140–141 Moscow, 79–96 The International Gay and Les- St. Petersburg, 253 near the airport, 96 bian Travel Association Journeywoman, 28 Arbat, 89–91 (IGLTA), 26–27 Julian calendar, 300 family-friendly hotels, 84 International House of Music Justo (Moscow), 167 around the Kremlin and (Mezhdunarodny Dom JVL (Moscow), 169 Red Square, 79–83 Muzyki; Moscow), 164 outside the Garden Ring, International SOS Clinic 93–95 (Moscow), 74 25_588990 bindex.qxp 12/17/05 12:42 AM Page 328

328 INDEX

Kronshtadt, 288–289 Lubyanka (Moscow), Kalinka Stockmann Kronshtadt Museum of Naval 57, 144–145 (St. Petersburg), 264 History, 289 Luzhniki Sports Complex Kamennoostrovsky Palace Kukolny Teatr (Obrazstov Pup- (Moscow), 142 (St. Petersburg), 247 pet Theater; Moscow), Kamenny Island (Kamenny 138–139 Ostrov; St. Petersburg), 247 Kunstkamera (St. Petersburg), Magrib (St. Petersburg), 275 Karma Bar (Moscow), 167 9, 244–245 Mail, 76, 203 Kazan Cathedral (Kazansky Kupina (Moscow), 153 Maltevsky Rynok (St. Peters- Sobor; St. Petersburg), estate (Moscow), 136 burg), 262 242, 256 Maly Theater (Moscow), 166 KGB, 301 Manezh (St. Petersburg), 277 Khalli-Galli (St. Petersburg), Labor Day/Spring Festival, 20 Marble Bridge (Tsarskoye 275 Lacquer boxes, 9, 259 Selo), 286 Khram Khrista Spasitelya Language, 75, 202–203 Mariinsky Hospital no. 16 (Christ the Savior Cathedral; Lastminute.com, 29 (St. Petersburg), 202 Moscow), 127 Lastminutetravel.com, 29 Mariinsky Theater (formerly Khram Vasiliya Blazhennogo Lavra Aleksandra Nevskogo Kirov Theater; St. Peters- (St. Basil’s Cathedral; (Alexander Nevsky burg), 191, 272, 274 Moscow), 52 Monastery and Cemetery; Market Square (Rynochnaya Khrapkoff (St. Petersburg), 275 St. Petersburg), 241 Ploshchad; Vyborg), 290 Khrushchev, Nikita, 295, 300 Lavrushinsky Lane Marly Palace (Peterhof), 283 Kievan Rus, 292–293 (Moscow), 55 Maslenitsa (Butter Week), Kirov Theater (now Mariinsky Le Club (Moscow), 169 17, 18–19 Theater; St. Petersburg), 191 Ledovy Dvorets (Ice Palace; MasterCard, traveler’s Kitai-Gorod (Moscow), 57, 67 St. Petersburg), 254 checks, 15 (Moscow), Legacy (Naslediye; St. Peters- Matritsa (Moscow), 169 4, 137 burg), 279 Matryoshka (nesting dolls), Kolomenskoye museum reserve Lenin, Vladimir, 295, 298 9, 152 (Moscow), 8 The Lenin monument Mavzolei Lenina (Lenin’s Kolonny Zal (Columned Hall; (Moscow), 130 Mausoleum), 9, 126 Moscow), 164 Lenin’s Mausoleum (Moscow), Mayakovsky, Vladimir, 311 Konservatoria (Moscow Con- 9, 126 May Day, 20 servatory; Moscow), 164 Lenta (St. Petersburg), 264 MEDEX Assistance, 21 Kontsertny Zal Im. Tchaikov- Lermontov, Mikhail, 310 MedicAlert identification skogo (Tchaikovsky Concert House Museum (Moscow), tag, 23 Hall; Moscow), 164 138 Medical insurance, 21 Kotelnicheskaya apartment Letny Dvorets, Letny Sad (Sum- Medny Vsadnik (Bronze Horse- building (Moscow), 66 mer Palace and Gardens; man; St. Petersburg), Krasnaya Ploshchad (Red St. Petersburg), 190, 246 186, 248 Square; Moscow), Linens, 9 Mekha (Moscow), 156 1, 7, 52, 67, 143 Moscow, 156 Melodia (Moscow), 157 accommodations, 79–83 Liquor laws, 75–76, 203 Memorial Museum of the restaurants, 99–104 Literary museums, 8 Leningrad Siege (St. Peters- sights and attractions around, Literary sights and attractions, burg), 245 123–127 137–138 Metro Krasnaya Presnya Tower St. Petersburg, 250–251 Moscow, 8, 68–69, 130 (Moscow), 66 Literature, 310–311 St. Petersburg, 199 The Kremlin (Moscow), Liverpool (St. Petersburg), 276 Metro Museum (Moscow), 130 7, 52, 54, 67 Lomonosov Porcelain Factory Mezhdunarodny Dom Muzyki accommodations, 79–83 (St. Petersburg), 265 (International House of restaurants, 99–104 Losiny Ostrov (Moscow), 140 Music; Moscow), 164 sightseeing, 119–123 Lost-luggage insurance, 21–22 Mikhail I, 294 The Kremlin (Suzdal), 179 Lower Nevsky Prospekt Mikhail Lermontov House Krestovsky Island (Krestovsky (St. Petersburg) Museum (Moscow), 138 Ostrov; St. Petersburg), 247 accommodations, 212–215 Mikhailovsky Castle and Gar- Krestovsky Sports Complex restaurants, 227–228 dens (Mikhailovsky Zamok; (St. Petersburg), 253 St. Petersburg), 190, 256–257 25_588990 bindex.qxp 12/17/05 12:42 AM Page 329

GENERAL INDEX 329

Mir space station, 132 Museum of Musical Instru- Nicholas I, 294 MKhAT imeni Chekhova ments (St. Petersburg), 245 Nicholas II, 295, 298, 299 (Moscow Art Theater), 166 Museum of Private Collections Nightclubs and cabaret Modest Charm of the Bour- (Moscow), 133 Moscow, 170 geoisie (Skromnoye Oboy- Museum of the Romanov St. Petersburg, 277 aniye Burzhuazi; Moscow), Boyars (Moscow), 144 Nightlife 167 Museum of Wooden Architecture Moscow, 159–173 Moika (St. Petersburg), 186 and Peasant Life (Suzdal), 180 bars, 170–171 Moiseyev Ballet (Moscow), 161 Museums, best, 8 club and music scene, Moloko (St. Petersburg), 277 Museum stores, Moscow, 156 166–170 M-111 (St. Petersburg), 279 Mushrooms, wild, 5 current listings, 159 Money Honey/City Club Music stores performing arts, 159–166 (St. Petersburg), 276 Moscow, 157 St. Petersburg, 268–280 Money matters, 13–16 St. Petersburg, 266 bars, 277–278 Mono (St. Petersburg), 278 Mussorgsky Theater (St. Peters- club and music scene, Monopol (St. Petersburg), 267 burg), 272, 274 274–277 Monplaisir (Peterhof), 283 Muzei Izobratitelnykh Isskustv performing arts, 268–274 Monrepos Park (Vyborg), 290 imeni Pushkina (Pushkin Nikolayevsky Palace (St. Peters- Monument to Victims of Soviet Museum of Fine Arts; burg), 272 Repressions (Moscow), 145 Moscow), 133 Nikolsky Old Believers’ Com- Moscow Art Theater (MKhAT mune (Nikolskoye Staroo- imeni Chekhova), 166, 307 bryadtsoye Kladbishche; Moscow Circus Named after Nabokov, Vladimir, 311 Moscow), 128 Y. Nikulin (Tsentralny Tsirk), Nabokov Museum (St. Peters- Nikon, Patriarch, 128 138 burg), 251 NKVD, 301 Moscow Conservatory (Konser- Napoleon Bonaparte, 297 North of Nevsky (St. Peters- vatoria; Moscow), 164 Naslediye (Legacy; St. Peters- burg), 199 Moscow Cultural Fund, 154 burg), 279 North Star (St. Petersburg), 266 Moscow International Film National Historical Museum Novaya Gollandiya (New Festival, 171 (Moscow), 126 Holland), 195 , 8, 68–69, 130 Naval Cathedral (Kronshtadt), Novaya Opera (New Opera; Moscow Operetta Theater 289 Moscow), 165 (Moscow), 161, 164 Neighborhoods Novaya Ploshchad (Moscow), Moscow Rental Service, 73 Moscow, 63–68 144 Moscow Shipping Company, St. Petersburg, 195, 198–199 and 139 Nesting dolls (matryoshka Cemetery (Novodevichy , 66 dolls), 9, 152 Monastyr i Kladbishche; Moscow Taxi, 61, 73 Neva (St. Petersburg), 267 Moscow), 4, 58, 127 Moscow Zoo (Zoopark), 138 Neva River, 4 Novy Tsirk (New Moscow Moskovsky (Moscow) Station Nevskaya Lakomka (St. Peters- Circus), 138 (St. Petersburg), 192 burg), 265 Moss-Rehab, 25 Nevsky Prospekt (St. Peters- Movies, 50–51 burg), 188, 198 Obrazstov Puppet Theater Moscow, 171–172 New Holland (Novaya (Kukolny Teatr; Moscow), MTS, 34 Gollandiya), 195 138–139 Museum of Arctic and Antarctic New Moscow Circus (Novy Ogorod (Moscow), 168 (Muzei Arktiki I Antarktiki; Tsirk), 138 Okhotny Ryad mall (Moscow), St. Petersburg), 246 New Opera (Novaya Opera; 54, 152, 155 Museum of Cosmonautics Moscow), 165 Old Believers, Moscow, 128 (Muzei Kosmonavtiki; Newspapers and magazines, 76 ”Old” New Year, 16–18 Moscow), 8, 131 St. Petersburg, 203 Old Vyborg district, 290 Museum of GULAG History New Tretyakov Gallery/Museum Olimpiisky Stadium (Moscow), (Muzei Istorii GULAG; of (Novaya 142 Moscow), 131 Tretyakovka; Moscow), 134 Onegin (St. Petersburg), 275 Museum of History and Art New Year’s Day, 16 Opera, 307 (Sergiev Posad), 176 New Year’s Eve, 18–19 Moscow, 165 Museum of Modern Art New Year’s Festival (St. Peters- St. Petersburg, 274 (Moscow), 134 burg), 273 25_588990 bindex.qxp 12/17/05 12:42 AM Page 330

330 INDEX

The Oracle of the Bottle Peter and Paul Fortress Project OGI (Moscow), 169 (Orakul Bozhestvenny (Petropavlovskaya Krepost; Prokhodimets Beerhouse Butylki; Moscow), 168 St. Petersburg), 8, 188, 240 (St. Petersburg), 278 Orbitz, 29 Peterburgsky Sport Complex Propaganda (Moscow), Orthodox Christianity, 296 (St. Petersburg), 254 167, 171 Ostankino mansion (Moscow), Peterhof (Petrodvorets) Palace Propaganda posters, 308–309 136 and Park, 281–284 Prospekt Nepokorionnikh Ostrovsky Square (Ploshchad Peter I (The Great), 294 (Piskarevo Park and Memo- Ostrovskogo), 249 , 296–297, 309 rial Cemetery; St. Petersburg), Ostrovsky Square (St. Peters- Peter the Great Monument 250 burg), 190 (Moscow), 58 Prostitutes, 88 Outdoor activities Petrodvorets Palace (Peterhof; Pulkovo-1 Airport (St. Peters- Moscow, 139–141 St. Petersburg), 7, 42, 191, 269 burg), 192 St. Petersburg, 252–253 Petropavlovskaya Krepost accommodations near, 218 (Peter and Paul Fortress; Pulkovo-2 Airport (St. Peters- St. Petersburg), 188 burg), 192 Package tours, 43 Petrovich (Moscow), 170 Pushkin. See Tsarskoye Selo Palace of Soviets (Moscow), 66 Petrovka (Moscow), 67 Pushkin, Alexander, 297, 310 Palace Square (Dvortsovaya accommodations, 87–89 Pushkin Apartment Museum Ploshchad; St. Petersburg), restaurants, 109–112 (Moscow), 138 7–8, 185, 254–255 Petrovsky Stadium (St. Peters- Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts restaurants around, 221–224 burg), 254 (Moscow), 58, 133 sights and attractions around, Pharmacies Pushkinskaya 10 (St. Peters- 238–241 Moscow, 76 burg), 246, 264 Panda and Kartathena St. Petersburg, 203 Pushkin Square (Pushkinskaya (St. Petersburg), 280 Philharmonic Hall (St. Peters- Ploshchad; Moscow), 57, 68 Panteleimonovsky (St. Peters- burg), 276 Putin, Vladimir, 295, 302 burg), 263 Picnic fare, Moscow, 112 Pyatniskaya Street (Moscow), Park Pobedy (Victory Park; Piskarevo Park and Memorial shopping on, 151 Moscow), 135 Cemetery (Prospekt Nepokor- Pyramid (Tsarskoye Selo), 286 Park Pobedy (Victory Park; ionnikh; St. Petersburg), 250 St. Petersburg), 248 Pivnaya Birzha (Beer Exchange; Parks and gardens St. Petersburg), 277–278 Q-Club (Moscow), 171 Moscow, 134–136 Pivnaya Bochka (Beer Barrel; Quikbook.com, 32 St. Petersburg, 246–248 St. Petersburg), 278 Quo Vadis (St. Petersburg), 202 Passage (St. Petersburg), 262 Planeta Fitness Passports, 11 Moscow, 140 Pasternak House Museum St. Petersburg, 253 Rail travel, 40–41, 45 (Peredelkino), 183–184 Ploshchad Isskustv (Square of Moscow, 62 Patriarch’s Palace (Moscow), the Arts; St. Petersburg), St. Petersburg, 192–193 122 188, 248 Rasputin, Grigory, 299 Patriarch’s Ponds (Moscow), Podmoskovye (region sur- The Real McCoy (Moscow), 171 4, 135–136 rounding Moscow), 175 Red Lion (St. Petersburg), 278 Patriarshy Dom Tours Pokrovsky Convent (Suzdal), Red Square (Krasnaya Moscow, 139, 175, 183 179 Ploshchad; Moscow), Suzdal, 178 Police Relay Race (Moscow), 1, 7, 52, 67, 143 Paul’s Library (Pavlovsk), 287 138 accommodations, 79–83 Pavlovsk, 286–288 The Polytechnical Museum restaurants, 99–104 Pelevin, Viktor, 311 (Moscow), 144 sights and attractions around, Peredelkino, 183–184 Porcelain, St. Petersburg, 265 123–127 Perekhod (underground walk- Post offices Red Staircase (Moscow), 120 way; Moscow), 72 Moscow, 76 Regional Medical Unit no. 20 Performing arts, 307 St. Petersburg, 203 (St. Petersburg), 202 Moscow, 159–166 Prescription medications, 23 Rent-a Bike (St. Petersburg), St. Petersburg, 268–274 Priceline, 29, 32 252 Peter and Paul Cathedral (St. Progonnaya Ulitsa (Driving St.; Respiratory illnesses, 23 Petersburg), 240, 273 Vyborg), 290 25_588990 bindex.qxp 12/17/05 12:42 AM Page 331

GENERAL INDEX 331

Restaurants. See also Restau- Rizopolozhensky Monastery St. Petersburg History Museum, rant Index (Suzdal), 179 245 Arkhangelskoye, 182 RoadPost, 34 St. Petersburg Metro, 199–200 best, 6–7 Rock and pop music clubs St. Petersburg Mosque Kronshtadt, 289 Moscow, 168–169 (Mechet), 243 Moscow, 97–117 St. Petersburg, 275–276 The St. Petersburg Times, 203 Arbat District, 114–115 Rosie O’Grady’s (Moscow), 171 St. Petersburg Zoo, 251 business lunches, 98 Rossi’s (St. Petersburg), 276 St. Theodore Stratilites, Church by cuisine, 98–99 Rossi Street (Ulitsa Zodchego of (Moscow), 146 family-friendly, 108 Rossi; St. Petersburg), 249 Salons beyond the Garden Ring, Route taxis, Moscow, 72 Moscow, 76 115–117 Runet, 30–31 St. Petersburg, 204 Petrovka and the Ukrain- Rurik, 294 Samolyot (Airplane; Moscow), ian Quarter, 109–112 Russia Info-Center, 43 173 sushi, 107 Russiana, 44 Samson Fountain (Peterhof), Tverskaya and environs, Russian Cruises (Dvortsovaya 283 104–109 Naberezhnaya; St. Peters- Sandunovsky Baths (San- vegetarian, 103 burg), 252, 282 dunovskiye Banyi; Zamoskvarechye, Russian Gateway, 44 Moscow), 4, 141 112–113 Russian Holiday (St. Peters- SATH (Society for Accessible Pavlovsk, 287–288 burg), 252 Travel & Hospitality), 25 Peterhof, 284 Russian Icon (St. Petersburg), Savior on the Spilled Blood, around Red Square and the 266 Church of the (Tserkov Spa- Kremlin, 99–104 Russian Independence Day, 20 sitelya Na Krovi; St. Peters- St. Petersburg, 219–233 Russian Museum (Russky burg), 190, 242, 256 by cuisine, 219–220 Muzei; St. Petersburg), Seasons, 16 family-friendly, 226 188, 244, 257 Security concerns, 24 Lower Nevsky Prospekt Russian Tours, 44 Sedmoi Kontinent (Moscow), up to Smolny Cathe- Russian Travel Service, 48 156 dral, 227–228 Russian Winter Festival Seleznyovskiye Banyi around Palace Square (Moscow), 160 (Moscow), 141 and the Hermitage, Russkaya Starina (St. Peters- Senior travelers, 27–28 221–224 burg), 263 Serebryanny Bor (Silvery Islet; South of Nevsky, Russkiye Uzori (Russian Pat- Moscow), 135 229–231 terns; Moscow), 154 Sergiev Posad, 174–177 Square of the Arts up to Rynochnaya Ploshchad (Market Severnaya Lira (St. Petersburg), Summer Gardens, Square; Vyborg), 290 266 226–227 Shakespeare and Co. Upper Nevsky Prospekt, (Moscow), 153 224–226 Safety, 24–25 Shamrock Bar (St. Petersburg), Vasilevsky Island and the St. Basil’s Cathedral (Khram 278 Petrograd Side, Vasiliya Blazhennogo; Shapka Monomakha (Crown of 231–233 Moscow), 52, 123, 126, 143 Monomakh; Moscow), 120 Sergiev Posad, 177 St. George’s Church (Moscow), Shchusev Museum of Architec- Tsarskoye Selo, 286 144 ture (Moscow), 66 Vladimir and Suzdal, 180–181 St. Isaac’s Cathedral Sheremetevo-1 Airport Vyborg, 291 (Isaakevsky Sobor; St. Peters- (Moscow), 62 Restrooms burg), 186, 242–243 Sheremetevo-2 Airport Moscow, 76 St. Petersburg Chamber Opera, (Moscow), 61 St. Petersburg, 203–204 274 accommodations, 96 Revivalist movement, 309 St. Petersburg Circus (Tsirk Shopping Revolution Day, 20 Cinizelli), 251 Moscow, 147–158 Revolution Museum (Moscow), St. Petersburg City Tourist neighborhoods, 150–151 130 Office, 193 St. Petersburg, 258–267 Rimsky-Korsakov St. Petersburg St. Petersburg Conservatory neighborhoods, 259, 262 State Conservatory (St. (Rimsky-Korsakov St. Peters- Shopping centers Petersburg Conservatory), burg State Conservatory), Moscow, 151–152 273 273 St. Petersburg, 262 25_588990 bindex.qxp 12/17/05 12:42 AM Page 332

332 INDEX

Shore excursions, 42 Stalin, Josef, 295, 299 Tennis, St. Petersburg, 254 Shostakovich Philharmonic Stalin Gothic skyscrapers Tennis tournaments, Moscow, (St. Petersburg), 257, 273 (Moscow), 8, 66, 90 142 Shtolnaya (Moscow), 170 Stanislavsky Nemirovich- Terem Palace (Moscow), 121 SideStep, 29 Danchenko Theater Terrorism, 24 (Moscow), 161, 165 Theater (1941–1944), 235 Stars of the White Nights festi- Moscow, 165–166 Sights and attractions val (St. Petersburg), 269 St. Petersburg, 274 Moscow, 118–146 State Academic Kapella Theater Square (Teatralnaya St. Petersburg, 234–257 (St. Petersburg), 273 Ploshchad; Moscow), 54 Silvery Islet (Serebryanny Bor; State Hermitage Museum Three Ls (Tri El; St. Petersburg), Moscow), 135 (St. Petersburg), 8, 42, 279 Sinners (Greshniki; St. Peters- 185–186, 234–235, 238 ”,” 293 burg), 278–279 accommodations around, Time Online (Moscow), 75 Site59.com, 29 207–210 Time zone, 78, 205 16 Tons (Moscow), 171 restaurants around, 221–224 Tinkoff (Moscow), 170 Skazki Starovo Arbata State Kremlin Palace (Moscow), Tinkoff (St. Petersburg), 278 (Moscow), 156 161 Tipping, 78, 205 Skiing STA Travel, 38 Tolstaya, Tatyana, 311 Moscow, 139–140 Street food, St. Petersburg, 225 Tolstoy, Leo, 310–311 St. Petersburg, 253 Strelka (St. Petersburg), 7, 186 Tolstoy House Museum Skromnoye Oboyaniye Style Moderne (Art Nouveau), (Moscow), 137 Burzhuazi (Modest Charm of 308 Tomb of the Unknown Soldier the Bourgeoisie; Moscow), Suburbs of Moscow, 175 (Moscow), 127 167 Summer Palace and Gardens Tours. See also Boat tours and Slippers at museums, 133 (Letny Dvorets, Letny Sad; cruises; Walking tours Smarter Travel, 29 St. Petersburg), 190, 246 escorted, 43–45 Smoking, 204 restaurants, 226–227 Moscow, 139 Moscow, 77 Supermarket 505 (St. Peters- St. Petersburg, 252 Smolny Cathedral and Convent burg), 266 Tsarskoye Selo, 284–285 (Smolny Sobor; St. Peters- Suzdal, 177–181 Tour Vacations To Go, 43 burg), 243, 273 Synagogue (Sinagoga; St. Toy Museum (Sergiev Posad), Sobornaya Ploshchad (Cathe- Petersburg), 243–244 176 dral Square; Moscow), 120 Toys Soccer Moscow, 157 Moscow, 142 Tabakov Theater Studio St. Petersburg, 266 St. Petersburg, 254 (Moscow), 166 Train travel, 40–41, 45 Society for Accessible Travel & Tatars, 293 Moscow, 62 Hospitality (SATH), 25 Tatyana Parfionova (St. Peters- St. Petersburg, 192–193 Solzhenitsyn, Alexander, 311 burg), 155, 265 Trams South of Nevsky (St. Peters- Taurida Gardens (Tavrichesky Moscow, 70 burg), 199 Sad; St. Petersburg), 246, 248 St. Petersburg, 200–201 accommodations, 215–216 Taxes, 77 Transfiguration, Church of the restaurants, 229–231 Taxi Blues (Moscow), 61 (Peredelkino), 184 Space exploration, 132 Taxis Transliteration, 22 Sparrow Hills (Moscow), 7 Moscow, 72–73 Transportation Spaso-Andronikov Monastery St. Petersburg, 201 Moscow, 68–73 (Moscow), 129 Taxi 232 (Moscow), 73 St. Petersburg, 199–201 Spectator sports Tchaikovsky, Pyotr, 297 Trans-Siberian Railroad, 4 Moscow, 142 Tchaikovsky Competition Travel Assistance St. Petersburg, 253–254 (Moscow), 160 International, 21 Sport Line Club (Moscow), 173 Tchaikovsky Concert Hall TravelAxe, 32 Sputnik, 132 (Kontsertny Zal Im. Traveler’s checks, 14–15 Spy agencies, 301 Tchaikovskogo; Moscow), Travelex Insurance Services, 21 Square of the Arts (Ploshchad 164 Travel Guard Alerts, 21 Isskustv; St. Petersburg), Tea traditions, 221 Travel Guard International, 21 188, 248 Telephone, 77–78, 204–205 Traveling to Russia, 36–42 restaurants, 226–227 Temperatures, average, 20 Travel insurance, 21–22, 38 25_588990 bindex.qxp 12/17/05 12:42 AM Page 333

GENERAL INDEX 333

Travel Insured International, 21 UPS (Moscow), 150 Warsaw Station (Varshavsky Travelocity, 29, 32 UPS (St. Petersburg), 258–259 Vokzal; St. Petersburg), 193 Travelweb, 32 US Dental Care (Moscow), 74 Water, drinking, 23 Tretyakov Gallery (Tretyakov- St. Petersburg, 199 skaya Galereya; Moscow), Wayport, 33 8, 55, 131, 133 Valentin Yudashkin Trading Websites shopping at, 156 House (Moscow), 155 traveler’s toolbox, 35 Tri El (Three Ls; St. Petersburg), Vasilevsky Island (Vasilevsky travel-planning and booking, 279 Ostrov), 198 29–32 Trinity Monastery of St. Sergius Vasilevsky Island and the Pet- White Days Festival (St. Peters- (Troitse-Sergiyevo Lavra; rograd Side (St. Petersburg) burg), 20, 273 Sergiev Posad), 175–176 accommodations, 217–218 White Nights (St. Petersburg), Trip-cancellation insurance, 21 restaurants, 231–233 20, 268, 269 Triumph Palace (Moscow), 66 VAT (value-added tax), 77, 204 White Nights Jazz (St. Peters- Troitse-Sergiyevo Lavra (Trinity Veliky Dvorets (Grand Palace; burg), 269 Monastery of St. Sergius; Pavlovsk), 287 Wi-Fi, 33 Sergiev Posad), 175–176 Vermel (Moscow), 169 Window on Europe (St. Peters- Trolleybuses Vernisazh (Izmailovsky Market; burg), 278 Moscow, 70 Moscow), 154 Wines, St. Petersburg, 266–267 St. Petersburg, 200–201 Vernisazh (St. Petersburg), (St. Petersburg), Tsaritsino estate (Moscow), 264, 266 234, 255 136–137 Victory Day, 20 Women travelers, 28 Tsarskoye Selo (Pushkin), Victory Park (Park Pobedy; Woodstock (Moscow), 170 42, 284–286 Moscow), 135 The Worker and Collective Tsentralny Avtovokzal (Central Victory Park (Park Pobedy; Farmer (Moscow), 129–130 Bus Terminal; Moscow), 62 St. Petersburg), 248 World Trade Center (Moscow), Tsentralny Dom Khudozhnika Video, flying with, 40 73–74 (Central House of Artists; Visas, 41 World War II, 299 Moscow), 134, 153 Visa traveler’s checks, 15 Tsentralny Tsirk (Moscow Visitor information Circus Named after Moscow, 63 Yantarny Dom (Amber Y. Nikulin), 138 St. Petersburg, 193–194 House; St. Petersburg), 263 Tserkov Spasitelya Na Krovi Vladimir, 177–181 Yekaterinsky Dvorets (Cather- (Church of the Savior on the Vladimir I, 294 ine’s Palace; Tsarskoye Selo), Spilled Blood; St. Peters- Vladimirsky Passage (St. 285, 286 burg), 190, 242, 256 Petersburg), 262–263 Yelagin Island (Yelaginsky Tsirk Cinizelli (St. Petersburg Vladimirsky Rynok (St. Peters- Ostrov; St. Petersburg), 247 Circus), 251 burg), 262 Yelagin Palace Museum Tsynik (Cynic; St. Petersburg), Vnukovo airport, 62 (St. Petersburg), 247 276 Vodka, 9, 303–305 Yeltsin, Boris, 295, 300, 301 (Moscow), Moscow, 158 Yubileiny Sports Palace 54, 57, 67 St. Petersburg, 266–267 (St. Petersburg), 253 accommodations around, Vodka Museum (St. Petersburg), Yusupov Palace (Arkhangel- 84–87 305 skoye), 181–182 restaurants around, 104–109 Vodokhod company (Dvortso- vaya Naberezhnaya; St. Petersburg), 252, 282 Zaichy Ostrov (Hare’s Island; Ukrainian Quarter Vodootvodny Canal fountains St. Petersburg), 240 (Moscow), 67 (Moscow), 55 Zamoskvarechye (land south of accommodations, 87–89 Vologodsky Len (Moscow), 156 the Moscow River), 55, 69 restaurants, 109–112 Vyborg, 289–291 restaurants, 112–113 Ulitsa Zodchego Rossi (Rossi Vyborg Castle, 290 Zoopark (Moscow Zoo), 138 Street; St. Petersburg), 249 Zoos Uncle Sam’s Billiard Bar and Moscow, 138 Cafe (Moscow), 173 Walking tours St. Petersburg, 251 Upper Nevsky Prospekt historic Moscow, 143–145 (St. Petersburg) St. Petersburg, 254–257 accommodations, 210–212 The Wanderers, 308 restaurants, 224–226 25_588990 bindex.qxp 12/17/05 12:42 AM Page 334

334 INDEX

ACCOMMODATIONS— Astoria, 207 Mekhana Bansko, 114 Bed and Breakfast, 213 Metropol, 99 MOSCOW & Corinthia Nevsky Palace, 5, Metropol Café, 54 ENVIRONS 210–211 Na Melnitse, 106 Akademicheskaya, 92 Dostoyevsky Hotel, 215–216 Noah’s Ark (Noyev Kovcheg), Akvarel, 87 Fifth Corner (Pyaty Ugol), 110 Alpha, 94 210, 216 Okhotny Ryad Shopping Center Ararat Park Hyatt, 79, 82 Grand Hotel Europe, 5, 211 food court, 104 Arbat, 90 Hotels on Nevsky, 211–212 1 Red Square, 99, 102 Baltschug Kempinski, 5, 91 Kristoff, 216 Parizhsk, 114–115 Belgrade, 90 Litorin, 217 Pavilion, 146 Budapest, 87–88 Marshal, 213 Pavilion at Patriarshy, 105 Cosmos, 94 , 214 Pokrovsky Convent (Trapeznaya; East-West Hotel, 86 Neva, 214 Suzdal), 181 Gamma-Delta, 94–95 Nevsky Prospekt Bed and Prisoner of the Caucasus, G&R Hostels, 6, 95 Breakfast, 212 7, 115–116 Globus, 95 Oktyabrskaya, 213 Rakhat-Lukum, 110 Golden Ring Hotel (Vladimir), Piter, 217 Rostik’s, 107, 108 180 Pribaltiiskaya, 217–218 Russkaya Skazka (Sergiev Holiday Inn Lesnaya, 86 Pulford Apartments, Posad), 177 Holiday Inn Vinogradovo, 5, 207, 210 Russky Dvorik (Sergiev Posad), 84, 93 Pulkovskaya, 218 177 Hotel Sokol (Suzdal), 180 Radisson SAS Royal, 211 Russkye Raki, 112 Le Royal Meridien National, Rossiya, 216 Sheraton Palace, 108 5, 82 Rus, 215 Shesh-Besh, 113 Likhoninsky House (Suzdal), St. Petersburg, 218 Shinok, 7, 116 180 Villa Peredelkino, 184 Shokoladnitsa, 113 Marco Polo Presnja, 84 Shtolnaya, 113 Metropol, 5, 82–83 Sobornaya Ploshchad Moscow Marriott Tverskaya, RESTAURANTS— (Vladimir), 181 84–85 MOSCOW & Starlite Diner, 106, 108 Novotel, 96 ENVIRONS Stary Gorod (Moscow), 117 Ozerkovskaya, 92 Stary Gorod (Vladimir), Aristocrat, 109 Pekin, 86–87 180–181 Beluga, 104–105 Pokrovskaya Hotel (Suzdal), Studio, 168 Bosco Café and Bar, 54, 102 180 Sudar, 116 Budva, 110 Polesye, 88–89 Sushi Vyosla, 102–103 Café Posadskoye (Sergiev President Hotel, 91–92 Taras Bulba-Korchma, 111 Posad), 177 Radisson SAS Slavyanskaya, 89 Tchaikovsky Concert Hall, 108 Cafe Pushkin, 6, 57, 105 Savoy, 83 TGI Friday’s, 108 Carre Blanc, 115 Sheraton Palace, 85–86 Tofu, 107 Donna Clara, 105–106 Sovietsky Hotel, 6, 93 TRAM, 107 Drova, 111 Sretenka, 88 Trapeznaya (the Kremlin; Easy Food, 103 Sverchkov, 89 Suzdal), 181 Expeditsiya, 109 Tsentralnaya, 87 Tsimmes, 117 FAQCafe, 103 Ukraina, 90–91 Uncle Vanya, 6, 55, 113 Genatsvale, 6, 114 Varshava, 92–93 Vanil, 6, 60, 114 Gogol, 111–112 Vega, 95 White Sun of the Desert, 7, 111 Grilyazh, 112–113 Zolotoye Koltso, 89–90 Yar, 116 Il Patio, 106, 108 Yolki-Palki, 7, 108, 109 Kharchevnya (Suzdal), 181 ACCOMMODATIONS— Kitezh, 109–110 Korrea’s, 117 RESTAURANTS— ST.PETERSBURG & Krem, 104 ENVIRONS Kremlyovsky Cafe, 104 ST.PETERSBURG & Alexander House, 210, 215 Mama Zoya, 115 ENVIRONS Angleterre, 207 Mama Zoya on the Water, 58 Admiralty (Admiralteistvo; Arbat Nord, 212 McDonald’s, 108 Tsarskoye Selo), 286 Akademiya, 232 25_588990 bindex.qxp 12/17/05 12:42 AM Page 335

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Arkhangelskoye Restaurant, Imperatorsky Stol (Peterhof), Restoran, 231 182 191, 284 Russkaya Rybalka (Russian Atlantik (Vyborg), 291 Karavan, 229 Fishing Expedition), Bagration, 227 Kavkaz Bar, 228 226, 231–232 Black Cat, White Cat (Chornaya Kilikia, 229 Russky Kitsch, 233 Koshka, Bely Kot), 227–228 Lenin’s Mating Call (Zov Ilicha), Standart (Peterhof), 284 Blindonald’s, 226, 230 230 Staraya Bashnya (Old Tower; Cafe Slavyanka (Pavlovsk), 287 Literaturnoye Café, 186, 225 Tsarskoye Selo), 286 Cafe Tsarskoye Selo, 286 Lucky Shot (Udachny Staraya Tamozhnya (Old Cus- Chainaya Lozhka, 225–226 Vystrel), 224 toms House), 6, 232 Corinthia Nevsky Palace, 226 NEP, 221 Stary Gorod (Old Town), 289 Flying Dutchman (Letuchy Ob’ekt, 274 Stray Dog Cellar (Podval Brody- Gollandets), 231 Ofitserskoye Sobraniye achy Sobaki), 188, 227 Great Column Hall (Bolshoi (Peterhof), 284 Street of Broken Lights (Ulitsa Kolonny Zal; Pavlovsk), 287 Onegin, 224–225 Razbitykh Fonarei), 226, 228 Hermitage Cafe, 224 Palkin, 224 Stroganovsky Dvor (Stroganoff Hermitage Restaurant, 221 Park Giuseppe, 226, 256 Courtyard), 226 Idiot, 6–7, 230–231 Podvorye (Pavlovsk), 288 Tinkoff, 230 Igorika (Vyborg), 291 Porto Maltese, 228 Triton, 229 ...Ili..., 190 Propaganda, 227 Troitsky Most (Trinity Bridge), 233