LUXURIOUS Issue Winter 2018/2019 Issue PEOPLE and STORIES from the TOP of the MOUNTAINS the TOP of STORIES from PEOPLE AND

Lake St. Moritz Reinventing the familiar – Reinventing the familiar –

such as a horse race on frozen on frozen race such as a horse LUXURIOUS Issue Winter 2018/2019 Issue PEOPLE AND STORIES FROM THE TOP OF THE MOUNTAINS THE TOP OF STORIES FROM PEOPLE AND

t S. Moritz | Issue Winter 2018/2019

www.stmoritz.ch www.engadin.stmoritz.ch

IN WINTER IN WINTER TOURISM SINCE 1864 THE ORIGINAL THE ORIGINAL CONTRIBUTORS TOP EVENTS

We work with various photographers, writers and illustrators. These collaborations are a great pleasure and make every new issue unique. EVENT CALENDAR FABRIZIO The highlights of Winter 2018/2019 D’ALOISIO Fabrizio D’Aloisio is at home in the world of communication; in recent years, he has CUS worked as a communica- … is the pseudonym of a tion adviser and journal- German quiz writer. DECEMBER ist. His texts and illus- CUS’s identity is as mys- AUDI FIS SKI WORLD CUP ST. MORITZ ENGADIN SNOW GOLF CUP BY MASERATI trations have appeared terious as his puzzles, the 8.–9.12. Meeting of the world’s best female athletes 26.–27.1. Golf tournament played with coloured balls on snow in magazines such as solutions to which aren’t in the disciplines Super-G and Parallel Slalom www.engadin.stmoritz.ch/winter/en/ “Swiss International always obvious. He is ru- www.skiweltcup-stmoritz.ch/en/ Airlines” and “Ride”. moured to be a lawyer 28.–30.12. SINFONIA 2018 FEBRUAR Classic cars fall into one living in the Munich Enjoy classical music at the highest level ENGADINSNOW www.sinfonia-engiadina.ch of his areas of expertise. LEANDRO area. What we do know: MADLAINA 1.–3.2. Freeride spectacle on the north wall of the So who better to report ALZATE his quizzes also appear WALTHER Corvatsch on the “Winter Raid”? Leandro Alzate was born in the “Süddeutsche Madlaina Walther’s first ANUAR www.engadinsnow.com Exactly – that’s what we in Bilbao and lives in Zeitung Magazin”. For degree was in sports 11.–19.1. 26TH ST. MORITZ GOURMET FESTIVAL WHITE TURF ST. MORITZ thought, too! Berlin. He was already us, the mystery-monger teaching. She then went Nine days with around 40 delectable events 3./10./ Luxurious horse-racing event and a social creative as a youngster, turned his attention to on to the Swiss School for gourmets 17.2. highlight of the season www.stmoritz-gourmetfestival.ch/en www.whiteturf.ch/en and spent his time draw- the Engadin. of Journalism to study ing comics. We aren’t the editorial photography. 13.–20.1. 61ST. CONCOURS HIPPIQUE NOMAD ST. MORITZ only ones who like his Originally from the Traditional horse jumping event in 7.–11.2. Gathering of the world’s leading galleries in an informal atmosphere smart illustrations – he Engadin, Madlaina now unique architectural locations www.stmoritz-concours.ch www.nomadstmoritz.com has also provided visuals combines her two for “The Financial qualification as an 17.–18.1. 14TH WINTER RAID 14.–16.2. CRICKET ON ICE Times” and “Die Zeit”. outdoor and action Exceptional classic car rally in the middle Prestigious cricket event with players and of winter guests from all over the world What would St. Moritz sports photographer. www.raid.ch/en www.cricket-on-ice.com look like as a quiz? Together, we explored Leandro Alzate shows the best ski slopes 18.–20.1. 14TH OUT OF THE BLUE’S FESTIVAL SAMEDAN 16.2. GRAND NATIONAL us on page 42. around St. Moritz on Two evenings of blues concerts in a unique Highlight of the Cresta Run season atmosphere www.cresta-run.com a Snow Safari. www.samedanblues.ch ST. MORITZ ICE CRICKET LA DIAGONELA 23.–24.2. Cricket legends compete on snow 19.1. Classic cross-country race in the Ski www.icecricket.ch Classics series. Start and finish in Zuoz www.ladiagonela.ch MARCH IMPRINT 21.–27.1. IBSF WORLD CUP BOBSLEIGH AND SKELETON FIS FREESKI WORLD CUP CORVATSCH ON THE OLYMPIA BOB RUN ST. MORITZ 1.–2.3. The world’s best free skiers performing Published by: Engadin St. Moritz Tourismus AG, Via San Gian 30, CH-7500 St. Moritz Competition on the only natural ice bob track acrobatic tricks Publishing company: C3 Creative Code and Content GmbH, Heiligegeistkirchplatz 1, 10178 Berlin, www.c3.co in the world Shareholders in C3 Creative Code and Content GmbH are at 85% the Burda Gesellschaft mit beschränkter Haftung, Oenburg, and at 15% KB Holding GmbH, www.corvatsch.ch/freeski-world-cup-corvatsch www.olympia-bobrun.ch Berlin. The sole shareholder in the Burda Gesellschaft mit beschränkter Haftung is Hubert Burda Media Holding Kommanditgesellschaft, Oenburg. The partners in KB Holding GmbH are Lukas Kircher (managing director, Berlin) and Rainer Burkhardt (managing director, Berlin), each with a 50% stake. 3.–10.3. ENGADIN MARATHON WEEK Editorial sta: Yasmine Sailer (management), Lisa Bierbauer, Annemarie Gassen • Freelance writers: CUS, Fabrizio D’Aloisio, Franco Furger, 25.–27.1. SNOW POLO WORLD CUP ST. MORITZ Highlight of the week: the Engadin Ski Marathon Christian J. Goldsmith, Eva Holz Egle, Anina Rether, Stefan Skiera, Sam Urech • Art director: Charlotte Bourdeix • Graphics: Regina Fichtner Polo tournament on frozen Lake St. Moritz www.engadin-skimarathon.ch/en/ Picture editor: Franziska Cruccolini Cover picture: Leo Mason/Gettyimages • Lithography: w&co MediaServices München GmbH & Co KG www.snowpolo-stmoritz.com Editors, international edition: Fiona Brutscher, Asa Tomash (freelance) • Project management: Franziska Radmacher • Printed by: Druckhaus Ernst Kaufmann GmbH & Co. KG, Raieisenstrasse 29, D-77933 Lahr • Rights: Reprints, including extracts, only with the explicit permission of the

Engadin St. Moritz Tourismus AG, quoting the source. private (2) Walther, Photos: Filip Zuan, Madlaina

2 ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 WINTER 2018/2019 ST. MORITZ 3 WINTER 2018/2019

02 CONTRIBUTORS, PUBLISHING DETAILS 03 EVENT CALENDAR WINTER 2018/2019 14 06 EDITORIAL GERHARD WALTER IN CONVERSATION WITH MARTIN BERTHOD 18 08 SPORT & ADVENTURE 10 ON THE WORLD’S STAGE Cricket champions from all over the world attend the ﬁrst “St. Moritz Ice Cricket” 14 FREEZING FUN We join two rally drivers for the legendary “Winter Raid” 18 PISTE CHASING 38 A safari in winter? Sure thing – on the best slopes of St. Moritz

CHEERS ON ICE 24 CUISINE Extraordinary habits have 26 CORVIGLIA RELOADED been cultivated in St. Moritz The mountain station on the Corviglia has a new creative restaurant concept for at least 155 years 32 THE LOVELIEST EDGE OF THE WORLD Hotel Fex, surrounded by unspoilt nature, far from the madding crowd

26 36 CULTURE 38 HARD TO BELIEVE St. Moritz has a long tradition of curiosities. 155 years in fun facts 42 ST. MOR-QUITZ Test your knowledge of the Engadin 44 ONWARDS WITH STYLE Professionals, trendsetters or beginners – we have the right equipment for everyone

48 NATURAL BEAUTY 50 KEEP YOUR EYES PEELED! Whom might you bump into here? These native animals, for instance 54 ENGADIN FEELING FOR SNOW How we sustainably protect snow and ice

54 58 ARTS & CRAFTS LUXURIOUS 60 UNIQUELY BEAUTIFUL At his workshop in Samedan, Ramon Zangger makes wooden furniture with history The extraordinary lies in the eye of the beholder. Exceptional ideas are most 64 WHAT IF ... ST. MORITZ WERE AN INSTRUMENT? Interview with the Engadin wood carver Nora Engels likely to become reality if they are conceived in a place that is bold enough

to be unconventional. A place like St. Moritz, for instance. Let our stories 66 PREVIEW: THE NEXT ISSUE inspire you – and encourage you to be bold! Photos: Gettyimages, Patrick Blarer, Madlaina Walther, Filip Zuan, Romano Salis Walther, Madlaina Blarer, Patrick Photos: Gettyimages,

4 WINTER 2018/2019 ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 ST. MORITZ 5 EDITORIAL

most diverse guests, participants and audien- ces. I’ve also always been lucky with my colleagues, and that has motivated me. Where do the best ideas for events come from? Sometimes the problem is that we have too many ideas. Then you have to ask yourself, can you continue the tradition or should you adopt a new trend? All in all, communication is extremely important in St. Moritz, and we’ve always been expected to seek surprising new events. How have you kept motivated for so long? The air, the altitude … altitude training. But seri- ously, it is always tremendous fun! And the next goal is always just around the corner. To Tourism director Gerhard Walter (left) Martin Berthod was responsible and senior event manager Martin Berthod (right) me, sport is part of St. Moritz, and St. Moritz for bringing “Cricket on Ice” to St. Moritz. review 37 eventful years. has great opportunities to develop further. The first match was held in 1989. What advice do you have for your successor? You have to love sport, and organise it in a way that the audience enjoys it just as much as the ABOUT MARTIN BERTHOD GERHARD WALTER athletes. You should also have a wide range of The former ski racer was born in the interests and constantly evaluate ideas based Bernese Oberland and became the event on whether they make sense for St. Moritz in manager responsible for major sporting IN CONVERSATION WITH particular. events in St. Moritz in 1981. He brought What was the best professional tip you were World Ski Championships, ice cricket and ever given? “You have to put down your luggage many other events to the Engadin. With MARTIN BERTHOD before you get to say anything.” That was to say: his Sports Events Team, he was involved just because you’re here, it doesn’t make you a in an average of 200 events a year. His native. But I was happy here from the begin- place in the world of sports remains secure ning. I had many friends from my skiing days, – as head of the organising committee of and that really helped. Back then, I thought I’ve the AUDI FIS Ski World Cup St. Moritz. come from tiny Grindelwald into the great big world, but I soon realised that it’s not so differ- ABOUT GERHARD WALTER ent here. People put their pants on one leg at a s a young man, he com- terview with tourism director Gerhard Walter, time – they’re just slightly more elaborate Gerhard Walter is originally from petedA in international ski races, lost the 1976 Martin Berthod looks back at past successes pants. Tirol. He has been CEO of Engadin Olympic qualification to his brother on the in- and challenges, the most exceptional events, What are you planning for your last day at St. Moritz since 2017. He studied tourism famous “Streif” in Kitzbühel and, following a and his relationship with St. Moritz. work? I’d like to finish on 12 April because I in Innsbruck, completed an Executive knee injury, retired from his active ski racing G.W.: How do you feel about retiring? started on the 13th. I don’t even know what day MBA at the Vienna University of career in 1978 as 17th in the world rankings. M.B.: I’ve still got a number of projects on the of the week it’ll be. I do know, however, that on Economics, and was tourism director Three years later, in St. Moritz, he began a ca- go, so I haven’t really had much time to think my first day we barbecued Cervelat in the of- at Lech and Kitzbühel. His hobbies reer that would put him back in the world of about the future, but I am looking forward to fice and I won’t be doing that again – it stank include skiing in winter. In summer, top-level sports events for another 37 years. having more time for myself. I’m still fascina - the whole building out. the 52-year-old enjoys mountain Prior to retiring from his position as senior ted by sports. There is so much available here And your departing words? I’m a St. Moritzer! climbing, hiking and running.

event manager of St. Moritz in 2019, in an in - in St. Moritz, from summer to winter, with the (1) (2), imago/ZUMA/Keystone Walther Photos: Madlaina I really am, now I’m allowed to say that.

6 ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 WINTER 2018/2019 ST. MORITZ 7 SPORTERLEBNIS SPORTERLEBNIS

SPORT ADVENTURE

Of course, you can “simply” go skiing, curling or ice skating in winter. Or you could reinterpret the usual sports – and establish unusual ones. In St. Moritz, people play cricket on ice as well as on grass, drive open-top vintage cars through the snow, and head o on a winter safari with a ski instructor. If it’s fun, you can do it! Photo: Filip Zuan

8 ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 WINTER 2018/2019 ST. MORITZ 9 SPORT & ADVENTURE

ICE CRICKET ON THE WORLD’S STAGE

Millions of TV viewers had their eyes on Lake St. Moritz in February as a brilliant new event brought excitement to the Commonwealth nations.

PHOTOS: FILIP ZUAN, MICHAEL SONDEREGGER

ozens of journalists has been taking place annually on frozen Lake from all over the world, TV producers and, in St. Moritz for almost 30 years. The event gives Dthe middle of it all, global cricket stars with interested parties the chance to play cricket more Twitter followers than tennis ace Roger against the fabulous mountain backdrop. Federer: excitement in St. Moritz on 8 and 9 It also gave Vijay Singh an idea. The son of February 2018. Cricket champions played on a Swiss mother and an Indian father, he snow for the first time ever, generating a tre- dreamed of an event that would pit cricket mendous amount of interest all over the world. champions against each other on the lake. Six One particular scene that took place later, years ago, Singh found a partner who was de- away from the pitch, would even bring two hos- lighted by the idea in Hans Wiedemann, tile nuclear powers a step closer to each other. Delegate of the Board of the Badrutt’s Palace But let’s start at the beginning. Cricket is a Hotel in St. Moritz. “I am a dual Swiss- niche sport in our part of the world. While Australian citizen and worked in Australia for football doesn’t stand a chance against cricket about 13 years. I got to know cricket during Ready to bat: cricket has been played on ice in in India, Pakistan, Australia, South Africa and that time, and discovered my passion for it,” St. Moritz for almost 30 other Commonwealth nations, most continen- Wiedemann explains. years – international cricket stars gathered here tal Europeans find the sport hard to love. But After years of preparation, finally the for the first time in 2018. not all of them. This exotic global sport and the dream became reality in February 2018. Engadin are bound together by tradition: crick- Thanks to “St. Moritz Ice Cricket”, for two days et has been played at the “Lyceum Alpinum” in St. Moritz was the hub of the international

Fotos: Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Fotos: Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Fotos: Zuoz for over 100 years, and “Cricket on Ice” cricket world. Stars from India, England,

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The “Royals” with their players from England, Pakistan, South Africa and New Zealand played the “Badrutt’s Palace Australia, South Africa, New Zealand and Diamonds” on frozen Lake other Commonwealth nations played two St. Moritz (left). Solidarity played a big matches on frozen Lake St. Moritz. The games part on both days (below). were broadcast live to 25 countries. Summa- ries and clips of the highlights went to living rooms and smartphones in dozens of other countries. “The event wasn’t just a windfall for St. Moritz, but for the Canton of Grisons and all of Switzerland. A unique occasion to show an audience of millions the beauty of St. Moritz and the Engadin,” says Wiedemann. As Singh emphasises, “It was a fabulous success! The top Hans Wiedemann (left), Delegate of the Board of Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, in conversation with players showed cricket at the very highest level Indian cricket star Virender Sehwag. – on snow and in freezing temperatures.” The “Royal” team, led by Pakistani superstars Shoaib Akhtar and Shahid Afridi, played against the “Badrutt’s Palace Diamonds”, whose side boasted perhaps the biggest star “A UNIUE OPPORTUNIT TO of the event, Indian idol Virender Sehwag. He has 17 million followers on Twitter (compare INTRODUCE MILLIONS OF VIEWERS that with Roger Federer's 12 million), and in his TO THE BEAUT OF THE ENGADIN.” home country every child knows his name. One match lasted a good three hours, and the Hans Wiedemann, Delegate of the Board of Badrutt’s Palace Hotel “Royals” won both, making them the overall with him, but out of respect she concealed her winners. flag. When Afridi realised what the woman A luxurious VIP tent on the lake supplied had done, he told her to hold her flag up for the the glamorous guests with champagne and re- picture. Afridi’s gesture was a strong sign for freshments. The TV channel Sony/ESPN set peace between the hostile nations Pakistan up a live studio, so guests were able to experi - and India. As cricket is more religion than ence up close how the event was broadcast live sport in both countries, the athletic rivalry all over the world. On Thursday evening, after between India and Pakistan never shows an the first day’s play, there was a fabulous gala “ugly side”, but is seen as something positive dinner at Badrutt’s Palace Hotel. Guests had that connects the two. “Afridi gained a lot of the opportunity to raise a glass and spend an sympathy on both sides of the border with this evening with their cricket idols in the most poignant scene,” wrote “The Times of India”, luxurious setting. The event was complemen- while “The Hindu” emphasised that “Afridi’s ted by exhibitions of jewellery, oriental car - touching gesture wins the hearts of India.” pets, photography and art. Afridi’s response: “As cricketers we can serve And then a small scene played out on the as role models and show how people can sidelines of the “St. Moritz Ice Cricket” that al- relate to individual nations.” INFO lowed two hostile nuclear powers to move a A wonderful sign that shows what sport

In cricket, the batsman tries to bat the ball as far as possible (above). little closer. Shahid Afridi, long-time captain can do. It can overcome borders, but it can also Useful and essential for this: a wooden bat (left). The next “St. Moritz Ice Cricket” takes and one of Pakistan’s biggest cricketers, posed raise St. Moritz up onto the great big Com - place on 23 and 24 for photos while his fans cheered. A young wo- monwealth stage. February 2019 www.icecricket.ch man carrying an Indian flag wanted a picture Author: Sam Urech

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15TH WINTER RAID

Not a common sight: FREEZING anyone can drive around “topless” in summer, but in winter you need to be brave – and warmly dressed! FUN

Louis Frey is a legend of the “Winter Raid” classic car rally. He is the only person to successfully complete all 15 rallies. We met up with him and his co-pilot Patrick Dätwyler just before the start of the 2018 rally on the Julier Pass, and accompanied them to the prologue.

PHOTOS: PATRICK BLARER, FABRIZIO D’ALOISIO (LEAD PICTURE)

here are two kinds of people in the world: those who treat themselves to a Thot mint tea after putting on snow chains in the middle of a storm at minus 12 degrees on the Julier Pass, and those who opt for a cola on ice instead. Most belong in the former cate- gory, Louis Frey and Patrick Dätwyler in the latter. It’s 17 January 2018, and many passes across the Canton of Grisons are closed due to heavy snowfall and squalls. It’s also the first day of the “Winter Raid” classic car rally, which is taking place for the 15th time. Louis Frey is the only participant who has completed OU HAVE TO BE A LITTLE BIT all 15 events. He and his long-time co-driver Patrick “Pädi” Dätwyler arrived from Muri in MAD TO DRIVE A WINTER the morning for the “Winter Raid” prologue in RALL IN AN OPEN-TOP CAR. St. Moritz this afternoon. Their vehicle: a 1934 Lagonda M35 Le Mans Rapide. If you know a OR VER PASSIONATE. little bit about classic cars, you’ll probably be shaking your head right now. The Lagonda has neither heating nor a windscreen, never mind a roof. When a structurally identical vehicle when we were 16 and 20,” explains co-pilot won the 24 Hours of Le Mans in 1935, nobody Pädi. You can tell at a glance that these two get would have imagined that 83 years later, two on well. After all, the chemistry has to be right Don’t feel the cold: Louis Frey (left) and madmen would be driving it in a four-day rally if you’re spending four days together at close Patrick Dätwyler in the middle of winter. quarters. But why on earth would they want heating things up as “Mad” in this context equates to passion- to drive an open Lagonda in the depths of they drive through the ice and snow in an open ate. Louis and Pädi have been mad about clas- winter? “Anyone can drive a car in summer, classic car in the sic cars since childhood. “Our fathers always but it’s something really special in winter,” says Winter Raid. drove classic cars. We met at a Mille Miglia Frey. The friendly workshop owner is indeed

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Rally driver Louis Frey (left) and co-driver moving. You have to drive this thing with your Patrick Dätwyler behind. It’s not like modern cars that practi- (right) looking the part in weatherproof cally drive themselves,” explains Louis. In- leather coats. deed, when riding in the Lagonda, your whole body shakes with the vibration of the engine The Lagonda M35 Le Mans has no roof – and it doesn’t and you can hardly hear your own thoughts, have heating or a windscreen, either. never mind another person’s words. The vehicle demands the driver’s full attention – and quite rightly so. Louis and Pädi will be spending the next three days driving to Cortina in including ladies in long, white furs. We always the Dolomites and back to St. Moritz in the warn them that our clothing and the vehicle toughest winter conditions. are oily, but they’re never bothered about get- Before the two set off, they confess slightly ting dirty.” sheepishly that they really had wanted a beer, ABOUT THE WINTER RAID Louis and Pädi aren't just two of a (unique) but opted for the cola because they were wor- Grand finale in the pedestrian zone of St. Moritz: Hans-André Bichsel, a doyen of the the winter rally ends here, two and a half days later. kind, they are also heartwarmingly free of af - ried about the photographer. What was it Swiss classic car scene, has been orga- fectations. Always approachable, appreciative, again? There are two kinds of people. Louis nising the “Winter Raid”, a three- to friendly and completely focused. That could be and Pädi clearly are made of the stuff we can four-day winter rally that starts with a because driving the Lagonda is not something never get enough of in life. Gentlemen, start prologue in St. Moritz in anuary and you can do casually. “Because you’re constant- your engines! then continues through the surround- AC/DC’s “Highway to Hell” in the background. ly using your legs and steering, you’re always Author: Fabrizio D’Aloisio ing Alps, since 2003. The finish is “That would be just the song for us to drive to usually back in the Engadin’s Alpine – if we had a radio,” they say in unison. And we metropolis. The “Winter Raid” is open believe them. to roadworthy, registered sports and However, at the end of the day, these two passenger cars of vintage 1988 or older. daredevils are only human. Aren’t they? Don’t At the finish line: three questions There are lots of regularity, hose and they get cold during the drive? “It’s a matter of for rally driver Louis Frey navigation checks to complete along attitude – and wardrobe. You only get cold if the way. The winner is the team with it’s warm and humid, because then you start the fewest deviations from the various to perspire, and once you’re even a little bit Louis, warmest congratulations on making it! How Did you like the route? Did we! It was abso- target times. damp, you stay that way,” says Pädi. “And if it was the rally? Fabulous! Starting with the pro- lutely lovely and unique. What was also inte- www.raid.ch/en/winter-raid/winterraid rains, we sing a Swiss children’s song about logue, during which we were able to drive resting was that – for the first time ever – we raindrops at the top of our voices,” adds Louis through the St. Moritz pedestrian zone sever - had to navigate to objects along the route and with a deep chuckle. In their greased leather al times. The audience loved it! There were solve tasks. military coats, the two are a perfect match for times when the car was covered in snow, and In short? We were really able to put our foot attracted to the unusual: Swiss TV recently their pre-war vehicle. This doesn't go un- Louis Frey was practically born we could hardly see anything on the Julier. But down; the atmosphere was fabulous throug- featured a portrait of him after he had com- noticed, and spectators constantly ask the duo with a passion for classic cars. then in the Dolomites we had blue skies and hout, and the organiser couldn’t have done a bined the chassis of a 1911 fire truck with a for photos. Louis Frey: “The Lagonda really at- INFO summer temperatures (ed.: that’s 0 degrees). better job. And actually winning a trophy, the 1,000-horsepower aircraft engine. “Unfor- tracts spectators like a magnet, especially at Co-driver Pädi was fabulous, and we got “Trofeo delle Dolomiti”, at the end was a com- tunately I couldn’t get a roadworthiness certi- the start in the pedestrian zone in St. Moritz. The 2019 “Winter through without any problems. plete surprise. We’ll be back! Raid” runs for three ficate for it,” chuckles Louis, as the radio plays Lots of people want to take a photo with us, days, 17–19 January

16 ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 WINTER 2018/2019 ST. MORITZ 17 18 the Snow Safari. many reasons for is onlyoneof mountain panorama breathtaking The view ofthe

snowboarders on the Snow Safari are after the best runsofthevalley. thebest snowboarders ontheSnowSafariareafter St. Moritz. However, rather ordeer, thanhuntingibex skiersand Hahnensee soonasthelegendary runisopen,it’sAs huntingseasonin PHOTOS: MADLAINAWALTHER PISTE CHASING SKIING THEENGADIN ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 ST. WINTER MORITZ

Fotos: Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

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e’re on the chairlift up to SPORT &ADVENTURE Snow Safari, sheshowed authorFranco Furger thebest slopes and Ski instructorCarmenBaumannknows herway around. Onthe lookout points between Corvatsch andCorviglia. - - - - the Matterhorn across the Zugspitze to the to Zugspitze the across Matterhorn the from see could we Safari, Snow the of point highest the metres, 3,303 at there, Up Cor vatsch. the of wall north vast the above high tion sta mountain the see also We can again. run the recognise we suddenly and slopes, tain moun the across roam to gaze our Weallow lovely.” so it’s because twice it ski to wanted see the Curtinellayou “Can part. region run?” Corvatsch the Carmen Safari, asks. “You least. very the At app. ing track our on gain elevation in metres 4,444 counting be we’ll day the of end the at and slopes, cover 8811dream kilometres, different from above. The we’re day in going figures: to area carve surrounding the discovering and er, anoth after slope one chasing day the spend to going we’re where resorts ski Moritz St. famous two of the names the are – they boots our under snow fresh like mouth fan’s ski a in melt names These Corviglia. and Cor vatsch names: Rhaeto-Romanic their them give to or – chough alpine an and raven large one via of consists The wildlife Moritz St. to Celerina. Sils from us takes that snowboards We’ve already completed half of the Snow and skis on trip a Safari”, “Snow a on We’re

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SPORT & ADVENTURE

TIPS FROM CARMEN BAUMANN

A Snow Safari is even more exciting with a ski instructor who knows all the mountains, slopes and secret tips. Carmen Baumann from Champfèr shares a few tips with us.

CORVATSCH 1 3 MOUNTAIN STATION FURTSCHELLAS 1 3,303 m MOUNTAIN STATION The best way to explore the area around 2,800 m St. Moritz in winter is on skis or a snowboard 3 (1+2). Even better: along with an insider 1 who grew up here and knows the ski region like the back of her hand (3). Ski fans will not only find lovely pistes, but can enjoy some quiet time on a sun lounger if the weather is right (4).

2 START SNOW 2 SAFARI PIZ NAIR Ortler. And how wonderful the snow up there 4 was. Lost in thought, we ski quickly across the glacier slope, watching the snow sparkle in the sun. Fortunately, we took Carmen’s advice and skied the slope across the Fuorcla Surlej. CORVIGLIA The view of the Bernina massif is at its most 2,486 m 5 impressive here. “That long, white crest is the ST. MORITZ famous Bianco Ridge. In summer you can BAD watch the mountaineers climbing up the nar- row ridge of the Piz Bernina,” explains our ski 6 ST. MORITZ instructor. DORF Carmen Baumann knows every peak and 5 every stone here; she grew up in Champfèr, a village neighbouring St. Moritz. She was only DESTINATION 7 three years old when she first stood on skis, CELERINA  1 FURTSCHELLAS 7 and since then the snow sport has been her 3 Coffee and pretzels in the mountain restaurant are a good great passion. “I loved going to ski school way to prepare for a long and exciting day. The inviting lounge is when I was a child,” she says. Today, the decorated with furs. 27-year-old teaches other people how to ski.  CURTINELLA She enjoys taking her guests on a Snow Safa- 2 The fabulous thing about the Snow Safari is that you won’t ski the  5 SALASTRAINS ri, which she believes is the best way to get to same run twice. But Carmen is happy to include an extra round on the Feel like a champion! With a little imagination, you can – ski the know the ski region around St. Moritz. That Curtinella. Not just for the brilliant slope, but also because the new, challenging Corviglia World Cup piste and speed towards the is why she recommends going on the Snow Sa- Porsche-style chairlift is so cool. target area on Salastrains. fari at the beginning of a visit. It does call for  3 CORVATSCH  6 MARGUNS a certain amount of fitness and skill, as sever- Corvatsch mountain station is one of the scenic highlights. It’s well The Snow Safari is most fun with a group of good friends. The Sternbar al very steep slope require a confident paral- worth climbing up onto the roof terrace. Good weather isn’t compulsory, on Marguns is a great spot to raise a glass to a successful tour. lel turn. One of them is the Hahnensee run – but it does make the Snow Safari more colourful – especially the photos. which is right in front of us.  7 CELERINA  4 HAHNENSEE The cherry on the Snow Safari cake comes after the long run down Carmen has also done the Snow Safari The Hahnensee run is legendary. Not just because of the fabulous to the valley and Celerina. There is a food truck that serves a large with children. If they are persistent and can location, but also because it is still a pure, all-natural snow piste. selection of fine waffles. Served with cream, Nutella or cinnamon 4 ski well, it’s no problem. “But it’s a long day if Photos: PR (1) Be sure to check first and make sure it is open. and sugar - all equally delicious.

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The Munt da San Murezzan chairlift goes high up into the Corviglia ski region (4). There are fabulous views of the snow- covered mountain ranges (5). Be sure to practice your “refreshment turn” on the way The Snow Safari route is a long one, and you’ll need lots of down and sample the excellent range perseverance. But there are opportunities along the way to of dishes on offer in the over 20 mountain catch your breath and/or stop for refreshments, such as at restaurants, such as the Glünetta Hütte (6). the Stüvetta Giand’Alva (1). Every winter sports lover’s A real pleasure at the end of the day: the dream: to plough through fluffy powder snow on a 4 valley run to Celerina (7). snowboard (2). Be sure to stop at the loveliest lookout points and take a few photos of the mountain panorama (3). 6

1 5

THE SNOW SAFARI NUMBERS: you want to do the whole safari,” the experi- two 3,000-metre peaks, enced ski instructor warns. Which is why she likes to stay flexible, keep an eye out for the 11 dream runs, weather and look inward for signs of tired - ness. “You can leave out one slope or another, 88 km of runs, or call it a day and ski the rest of the Snow 3 4,444 metre elevation gain Safari tomorrow.”

Carmen’s words are reassuring, just as we 7 are starting to feel our legs. At the same time, they spur us on. Because of course we want to ski the whole Ski Safari with all its highlights: the Corvatsch mountain station and the Hah- nensee run with the Piz Nair and the World them with lovely sunny terraces. We chose the down to St. Moritz Bad, from where we take alpine mountain world of the Corvatsch, and Ski Championship slope. Carmen, who doesn’t Stüvetta Giand’Alva at the bottom of the the cable car into the Corviglia region. Car - now we’re in the middle of urban St. Moritz. seem to be feeling tired at all, points to the op- chairlift we just rode on. There’s reggae play- men goes first, executing perfect, precise We can’t wait to find out what the Corviglia posite side of the valley. “See over there, that ing on the terrace, while the chef grills us a short turns in the snow. She whoops with de - region has to offer us. “You’ll be amazed,” says was the finish area for the Skiing World Cup. fine sausage, served with polenta. “If we have light. Indeed, the slope is perfectly prepared. Carmen. “The runs are rolling, wide and open, And that symmetrical pyramid over there is time, we’ll do an extra round to the Trutz Our skis grip without problem, and do exact- just wonderful. Want to carry on?” We nod, Piz Nair. We’ll be on the summit in an hour.” lodge on Corviglia,” says Carmen. Apparently, ly what we want them to. So we conquer even broad grins on our faces. “Great – then we’ll Ooof, we think. The Piz Nair still looks to be the apple strudel is out of this world. “And the steep slope without any problems. To - ski the World Cup run next, that’s a must. And some distance away. we’ll treat ourselves to an Aperol Spritz at the wards the bottom of the long descent, we ski then we’ll head to the two lookout points Piz Thankfully, there are plenty of opportuni- Glünetta.” through idyllic woods before coming to a halt Nair and Trais Fluors, where you can see all INFO ties along the Snow Safari to pop in some - But first, we have to ski the longest de - outside the palatial, impressive Kempinski across the Engadin.” Carmen has already where for some fortification. There are about scent on the Snow Safari: the famous Hah- Information on the Snow Grand Hotel des Bains. shouldered her skis and set off towards the 20 mountain restaurants to choose from, ac - nensee run. It’s 10 km, and starts with a long, Safari: Wow, what contrasts the Snow Safari of - valley station. www.engadin.stmoritz.ch/ cording to Carmen’s calculations – most of steep slope. It runs from the Corvatsch region snowsafari_en fers: peace and unspoilt nature in Sils, the Author: Franco Furger

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Photo: Filip Zuan WINTER 2018/2019 ST. 2018/2019 WINTER MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 ST. 2018/2019 WINTER MORITZ trends and traditional, tried and tested gusto. A new restaurant concepton Anew trends andtraditional, gusto. triedandtested guests international dishes and wonderfully fresh Engadin cuisine intwo freshEngadincuisine internationalguests dishesandwonderfully are eortlessly combined,inkeeping withthespirit ofthetimes. are eortlessly locations. The latter atlocations. Hotel The isalsoserved Fex. andnow Then the Corviglia creates a bridge between the two – and serves its creates abridge thetwo between –andserves the Corviglia The key to culinary dreams lies somewhere between food between dreamsliessomewhere toculinary key The

CUISINE KULINARIK 25 26 White Marmot. are served atthe sophisticated fare This dishandother topped withcaviar. cauliflower andegg Yum! Creamed CORVIGLIA RELOADED culinary highlight. The WhiteMarmot highlight.The restaurant serves culinary reinvention ofatradition onlyinSt.Moritz. that exists more than top cuisine andagood cigar– itisthe more thantopcuisine The summit station on the Corviglia has a new hasanew summitstation ontheCorviglia The DINNER IS SERVED ...AT 2,468METRES ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 ST. WINTER MORITZ PHOTOS: FILIPZUAN

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Fotos: Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx WINTER 2018/2019 ST. 2018/2019 WINTER MORITZ E here. Except with better views.” better with Except here. York New or London like it’s us tell always guests “Our words: Meili’s Christian in it put been reinterpreted. Corviglia reloaded.now Or,has totradition this and – leather of boots and wood of made still were skis when time a to back goes tradition Its air”. pagne-quality “cham in achievements culinary its for mous fa become to first the was that mountain the on thus And Corviglia. the region, sports ter win best-known world’s the to local mountain at of on an precisely altitude 2,468 metres, the more and Moritz, St. in are we But building.” existing the of reconstruction complete a after White Marmot restaurant2017,the December 16 and “On bar read: reopenedcould no tice The measure. construction a be only would

lsewhere in lsewhere the world, it CUISINE trends –thechefdecuisineinterprets theminhis - - - - Marco Moroni knows alltheglobalkitchen own uniqueway attheWhiteMarmot. Zürich was asked to reconsider the interior. the reconsider to asked was Zürich Atelier renowned The tradition. with keeping in but renovated, be to was Everything hands. own their into complex gastronomy the for responsibility take to decided AG, Mountains station, of the operator the future, the into establishment the of (Meili) tradition” and “spirit the transport to der ofdish In or the signature Moritz St. lifestyle. the became – sauce cream sour a and caviar with potatoes puréed – snow” “Corviglia their years on the culinary legend of Corviglia, and 50 for worked him, before Hartly, father, his and 2017. March Mathis, in withdrew Mathis Reto pioneer Gastronomy farewell. a with gan be The reinvention of mountain. the inventors re- the of one and hotspot, new the at ing Meili is the head of gastronomy and lodg and gastronomy of head the is Meili

Engadin St. Moritz St. Moritz Engadin

27 - - -

CUISINE SPORTERLEBNIS

TWO LOCATIONS THAT PROVIDE EVERTHING RE UIRED DURING A DA’S SKIING.

The man revitalising traditions at his location on the Corviglia 1 (manager Christian Meili, right) and the man who ensures that palates are tantalised (head chef Marco Moroni, left). Not only the stylish interior of the White Marmot can hold its own against restaurants in metropolises such as New York and London (1); the dishes are also beautifully creative (2-5). Head chef Marco Moroni provides that certain something – lobster on the pasta, for instance, or duck liver in one of his burger creations.

The designers’ idea: since the building dates for celebration, not just on special occasions back to the 1970s, the design should be based (for which the restaurant can be booked in the on that era. “We looked at lots of old photos, evenings on request). Chef de cuisine Marco and everything was pretty colourful back then, Moroni serves pasta and lobster, but also offers the design, the ski suits,” says Meili. an admirable selection of burgers. He fills his So the White Marmot was made colourful Corviglia Paris Texas burger with duck liver, too, with a green, pink and wine-red interior. while the Corviglia burger has a polenta crust. 2 Positioned in the bar is a large white sculpture If there were no caviar, you wouldn’t be in of the animal that gives the restaurant its St. Moritz – but there is, and it’s served on an name. However, to speak of just one restaurant egg with creamed cauliflower. The accompa- isn’t quite correct. The building also houses nying drinks can be selected from the exclusive two other venues that meet a range of diverse wine list. It’s no secret that celebrities from all requirements that arise during a day on the over the world still come to the Corviglia today. 5 slopes – in addition to the White Marmot, they One of the most frequent visitors in the first are also welcome to visit the Golden Eye pri- months was Indian steel magnate Lakshmi vate room and Edy’s Restaurant. Mittal. But Christian Meili also wanted to As the host of the White Marmot, Marcel - open his venue to “have a bar – so people can lo Gervasi has already experienced many come without having to book a table”. memorable moments. “We once celebrated a The operators also faced the challenge of birthday until 3am with a full moon; that was renovating everything in Edy’s Restaurant. amazing.” The Mediterranean cuisine with The name is another reference to the tradition 4

sidekicks from global food trends is also cause this summit station likes to be associated with. Rasp (1) Photos: Ingo

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WHITE MARMOT Guests can look forward to classic dishes with a contemporary spin and dine in a stylish ambience – the interior is based on the 1960s and 1970s. In addition to the restaurant, lounge and bar, there 2 is also an all-gold private room. The restaurant was named after the white sculpture of a marmot that sits overlooking the bar.

EDY’S RESTAURANT Those who prefer a more relaxed ambience on the Corviglia head to Edy’s. The free-flow restaurant is per - fect for an uncomplicated, 1 cosy rest from the slopes. The location was named after ski racers Edy Reinalter and Edy Rominger.

and his brother Ruedi. And although Edy’s is “IT’S A COOL not an alpine hut, it’s still a relatively relaxed 3 SELF-SERVICE place, a “free-flow restaurant”. Meili explains this term: “It’s an ultra-cool self-service con- Airy, bright and modern CONCEPT.” cept without queues; guests can move around with fabulous views: Edy’s leaf. It is said that in Switzerland, there are as Restaurant (1). Christian Meili, head of gastronomy freely. The basic idea behind the food is fresh- many recipes for this dish as there are moth- and lodging, on Edy’s Restaurant Like the White Marmot, ness. At the front cooking station, we serve it is on the Corviglia (2). ers-in-law. The fact that there have been no typical dishes such as ‘Älplermagronen’ (shep- The self-service concept complaints so far speaks to the quality of the ensures that Edy’s is herd’s macaroni) or rösti. Cold dishes such as uncomplicated (3). It cuisine. It’s the name of two skiing heroes: Edy mozzarella salad are presented in a glass con- serves typical Engadin The only question that remains is what specialities (4). Reinalter and Edy Rominger. Reinalter won tainer. Everything is in portions, and there’s INFO particular function was assigned to the Gold- the slalom in the 1948 Winter Olympics in nothing from a buffet.” Meili’s initial experi- en Eye private room. It was named for its de- St. Moritz. He was also a member of the fa - ences with the new concept: “The comments White Marmot sign, dripping with soft champagne gold. Restaurant & Bar mous “Guardia Grischa”, a group of skiers who from the ski instructors and our staff have T +41 81 833 76 76 When the sun shines in, it shimmers in golden dominated the alpine competitions at the been extremely positive. That’s always a good hues. You can smoke a cigar here and, as you Edy’s Restaurant time. Edy Rominger was also a member and sign.” Especially if you know that Edy’s T +41 81 833 76 77 enjoy the view of the mountains, contemplate won 23 of 26 races in the winter of 1946/47. Restaurant also serves “capuns”, a traditional Bergstation Corviglia how it all began. Back in the day, when skis The “Rominger jump” on the World Cup run food made from spätzle dough stuffed with www.mountains.ch/ were still made of wood. en/restaurants/ 4 exists to this day, and was named after Edy pieces of dried meat and wrapped in a chard restaurants-corviglia PR (1) Rupa, Photos: Dolores Author: Christian J. Goldsmith

30 ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 WINTER 2018/2019 ST. MORITZ 31 32 surroundings. Of which there are plenty. The plenty. are there which Of surroundings. unspoilt the enjoy to quiet and peace the They want anyhow. entertainment modern of search zone. TV-free a been has hotel the then, Since thing!” of sort that watch to Fex Val the into here up way the all come don’t you “And 63. now Marc, explains nament,” watch our team being thrown out of the tour to had and World Cup, the in Switzerland and Honduras between match the watching hotel, the in sitting was I ago years “Eight it. of rid got they why not is that ambience, fashioned old- this in well sit not would TV a although And Twenties. Golden the from ballroom small a mind to calls floor parquet ringbone her creaking the and chairs coffee-house sic room. The long clas- room its chandeliers, with dining the in chairs Thonet delicate the of oneon himself seated just has who Fex, Hotel the of owner Bär-Schilder, Marc says well,” as Those who book a room here are not in not are here room a book who Those es, back in the day we had a TV TV a had we day the in back es, Dr Marc Bär-Schilder,owner (left),Patrick Gloser,managingdirector renovated itsince. Thecharmofbygone days has been retained, The Bärfamily purchased theHotelFex in2009andlovingly (centre), Sara Bachmann,assistant tothedirector (right). but brought uptomodern standards, throughout. - -

which countless legends still persist today. persist still legends countless which about and of carriages, lots involved that king underta bold A century. the of turn the after just Fex Val the in it rebuild and components individual its into down building the break to decided suddenly time, the at owner the St. vibrant in but stream, mountain Fedacla tinkling quietly the beside located wasn’t smugglers. coffee and salt by ago century a used were sideItaly, to the by Swiss lies connected that paths them behind Just Tremoggia. Piz and Fora Piz as such peaks 3,000-metre by crowned range mountain snow-covered horseshoe- shaped, a onto out look guests room, dining the From Maria. Sils at starts and long km 8 is which Fex, Val populated sparsely the in buildings last the of one is hut, tain moun Selvas Muot Alp the and farm a with along and, metres 1,966 at situated is hotel Moritz Bad. However, Balthasar Arquint, Arquint, Balthasar However, Bad. Moritz At the end of the 19th century, the hotel the century, 19th the of end the At CUISINE

ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 ST. WINTER MORITZ - -

Fotos: Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx WINTER 2018/2019 ST. 2018/2019 WINTER MORITZ THE LOVELIEST mysterious Attheendof19thcentury, past. inSt.Moritz, thebuildingstood The HotelThe Fex issituated oftheEngadin, andhasa inanunspoilt sidevalley but thenitwasbroken downintoindividualcomponents andrebuiltinthe THE WORLD

EDGE OF Fex valley. We thehotel’s retrace legend. PHOTOS: STEFAN SKIERA STEEPED INHISTORY SPORTERLEBNIS

33 CUISINE

What we know: Balthasar Arquint already owned the restaurant Edelweisshalde in Val Fex. “Perhaps guests kept asking him during meals why it wasn’t possible to spend the night in this beautiful valley. So he simply decided to move the hotel,” is the best guess of current owner, Marc Bär-Schilder. A second theory is linked to the plans Grisons had then to build several railway tunnels to connect Switzerland and Italy in the early 20th century. It is possible that one of these tunnels – although it was never built – was planned for Val Fex, and Arquint wanted his hotel to be involved in the revival of the border region. “We really should make it the subject of a doctoral thesis,” says Bär-Schilder, “and research it all properly.” Whatever the circumstances, he also believes the move made sense economically, because Nothing but open space and wood as a building material was quite expen- nature: the view from one of the 15 rooms at Hotel Fex. sive at the time, so recycling and transporting it was probably worth the effort. The atmosphere of the late 19th century still characterises the hotel today. For instance, the gold-framed mirror in the dining room still hangs where it did 100 years ago. A fresco from the early part of the last century “Which we know from an old photo,” says Marc adorns the foyer, as does a historic map that Bär-Schilder, who purchased the hotel with covers one entire wall. Stylish arrangements of his wife, Lotte, in 2009. Before that, the hotel numerous antique home accessories such as The furs on the chairs are warm, so you can sit outside in winter (1). The location of the hotel isn’t the only thing that makes it easy to focus on the essential; as seen here in the dining room, the whole interior radiates a stylish simplicity (2). The hotel went through several operators – and its charm jugs and bowls, chests, some copper scales and serves Swiss dishes, as well as Mediterranean-inspired ones (3). 1 embroidered lampshades, are reminiscent of

bygone days. 2 THE ATMOSPHERE Unlike at the fin de siècle, today’s guests are no longer offered a 13-course dinner. OF THE LATE 19TH Instead, they are served four courses made CENTUR STILL from regional and sustainably grown ingre- dients. After a day’s cross-country skiing or CHARACTERISES some pleasant hours spent reading in the THE HOTEL TODA. library, guests gather in the dining room (without music!) and indulge in some Swiss- INFO Mediterranean specialities prepared by chef Hotel Fex suffered a slight loss following various conver- Giorgio Biavaschi. There’s much cheerful Via da Fex 73 7514 Fex/Sils sions. This couple, originally from Zurich, were chattering over the risotto with Grisons rather more cautious with their renovations Malögin cheese. Popular topics include the his- Prices including half-board from four years ago. Historic details such as painted tory of the hotel, which doesn’t instantly reveal CHF 125 to CHF 180 ceilings came to light in some of the rooms, all its secrets. per person and day T: +41 81 832 60 00 3 and were lovingly and painstakingly restored. Author: Stefan Skiera www.hotelfex.ch

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CULTURE

What do thousands of elaborate fan messages in the snow, champagne served on ice skates and a 30-course picnic on the Julier Pass have in common? The fact that almost anything is possible in St. Moritz. Whether a professional athlete or a trendsetter, the village has so much to oer everyone. What you need: the right equipment – and an open mind for anything new. Fotos: Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Fotos: Photo: PR

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DID YOU KNOW? 20 MILLION … South Asian TV viewers looked towards St. Moritz in February 2018. Why: it was the first time that the international “St. Moritz Ice Cricket” match was held HARD TO here with cricket champions from India, England, South Africa and New Zealand. Sportsmen on par with football stars Messi or Ronaldo were the attrac - tion: Virender Sehwag of India has 17 million Twitter BELIEVE followers. Whether horse racing, polo or golf tournaments, if it takes place on grass in England, in St. Moritz it’s Outlandish guest requests, exceptional events, odd Almost anything is played on the frozen lake. The idea of playing cricket, possible in St. Moritz – polo one of the biggest global sports, on ice is said to have anecdotes: St. Moritz has seen it all. and cricket aren't been born in a bar in 1987. It turned out to be more We’ve collected 155 years’ worth of surprising facts. necessarily played on grass; ice is fine as well. than a harebrained scheme.

AN ELEPHANT IN THE LOBBY Guests at Badrutt’s Palace Hotels like a touch of exclusivity.

If that didn't spur the World Cup Not least when it comes to their requests. Three particular oddities: athletes on … Over two days, the fans’ messages and portraits 3RD PLACE of the stars were etched into the Once a hotel guest was overcome by the desire to watch TV – while at snow as one-line drawings. an altitude of 3,000 m. A TV was flown up to him by helicopter. 2ND PLACE A bride demanded a number of camels for her engagement ceremony. The Palace was happy to oblige.

1ST PLACE A guest wanted to give his wife a present – but in a way that she would DRAWN IN THE SNOW never forget: by elephant trunk. As there just happened to be a circus in The athletes weren’t the only ones demonstrating their finest snow skills at the 2017 the area, it was a request that the team was easily able to fulfil. The only World Ski Championships. Swiss fans also revealed an impressive level of creativity in problem: the elephant didn’t want to walk through the hotel entrance. cheering on their stars. Thousands of messages were turned into a huge snow painting It wasn’t until the pâtissier had the brilliant idea of enticing him with a on an area equivalent to around 16 football pitches. Specially constructed robot snow few chocolates that the elephant had a change of heart. And how did blowers were used to create the world’s first snow artwork of its kind. they get him out again? The same way. Sweet, don’t you think? Fotos: Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Fotos: Palace Filip Zuan, PR/Badrutt’s Michael Sonderegger, Photos: PR (3), Andy Mettler/Swiss-image,

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WAITERS ON ICE In the 1920s, the icy areas outside the big ho- André Citroën once drove Chaplin and his lover out onto the snow-covered tels were considered hotspots of elegant soci - Julier Pass (below) in his caterpillar vehicle for a picnic – with 30 courses! ety. After doing the rounds on ice, skaters were waited on by servers in tails and skates. René Breguet was one of them. With a grace- ful lightness, he skated out balancing trays of sparkling champagne in crystal glasses. Ice soirées with live bands were considered chic, and those who weren’t steady enough on the The list of famous visitors to St. Moritz blades were able to enjoy the best views of the includes big names swish events from the hotel’s balconies. At the such as Charlie Would you care for Chaplin. some champagne? peak of ice skating’s popularity, 18 big hotels Hard to imagine a more in St. Moritz had their own rinks. Today there extravagant way of are only three. One of them – the Suvretta serving the bubbles. House – enjoys the luxury of its own trainer.

IN THE 1920S, THE IC AREAS OUTSIDE THE BIG ECCENTRIC HOTELS WERE CONSIDERED HOTSPOTS OF HOLLYWOOD STAR The list of movie stars who paid a visit to was also there, and invited guests to a 30-course ELEGANT SOCIET. St. Moritz in winter is as long as the train ride (!) picnic on Piz Julier. The car manufacturer into the Engadin. Alfred Hitchcock, Marlene proudly presented Charlie Chaplin and his Dietrich, Luis Trenker and film diva Gloria lover May Reeves with his caterpillar vehicle Swanson were among those who once congre- and drove them to the top of the snow-covered gated here for champagne and lobster soup. pass. At the top, a psychic was waiting for the Charlie Chaplin also enjoyed the unique at- group of illustrious guests. He used personal mosphere, although he felt intimidated by the items to foretell their owners’ futures without mountains. “Their threatening presence knowing who the objects belonged to. As he makes me feel superfluous,” the eccentric film held Chaplin’s spectacles in his hand, he said, star is believed to have said. Charlie Chaplin “The owner is at the height of his career. He was in St. Moritz from the middle of Decem- will live to an old age, but not die of natural ber 1931 until early March 1932. André Citroën causes.” Chaplin’s response? “As long as he pro- mises me a long life, I’ll be hap - py to risk dying a violent death.” To hone your personal ice-skating skills, you can Actually, he spent the last 25 book a pro at Suvretta House (above). The THE LIST OF FILM STARS historic ice pavilion (right) of the Kulm Hotel WHO COME TO ST. MORITZ years of his life above Vevey and St. Moritz was built in 1905, and renovated for died, aged 88, from natural the 2017 World Ski Championships by

acclaimed architect Lord Norman Foster. (4) Dokumenations Bibliothek St. Moritz Hotel, PR/ Kulm St. Moritz, House PR/ Suvretta Photos: Getty Images, IN WINTER IS LONG. causes, as the result of a stroke.

40 ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 WINTER 2018/2019 ST. MORITZ 41 6 CULTURE 2 CULTURE NEARER, MY GOD, AGAINST THE FLOW TO THEE The Inn flows into the Danube. A tiny cemetery amidst It should be the other 7 fabulous scenery. A famous way around, as the Inn is the bigger SHOWDOWN TEST YOUR KNOWLEDGE! painting. And a great river and almost always carries more water A spectacular sports facility in the artist who is buried here. than the Danube. Therefore, the Danube Engadin. The only one of its kind in Where is it? should flow into the Inn, and thus Vienna and the world. Only used in winter, and A: Pontresina – B: Celerina Budapest should lie on the Inn. But the Inn also goes only by amateurs. The language? ST. MOR-UITZ C: Silvaplana – D: Maloja against the flow, as it were. A rather inconsequential English. Ladies? Not allowed. stream that flows into the Inn in the Engadin Although anyone can watch. Only one is bigger than the Inn. Consequently, the person has ever managed to complete Extraordinary questions sometimes require pretty ordinary river that flows into the Black Sea should the route in under 50 seconds, and he responses. The German quiz author CUS has put together be called neither Danube nor Inn, but ... was a genuine Lord – of course. A: Flaz – B: Fex this challenge for you (and us) – can you ﬁnd the solution? PIZ PALÜ What is the name of the facility? C: Fedoz – D: Vallun A: Cresta Run – B: White Turf C: Olympia Bob Run ILLUSTRATION: LEANDRO ALZATE D: Polo on Snow 8 PATHLESS 5 Cable cars attract hikers. Whether 3 MELODIOUS NAME they are heading towards the valley from the mountain station, or simply SHOTGUN WEDDING The name of the famous Piz want an easy ride back down after the 1 He met his future wife at the Palü above Pontresina and ascent. There is only one cable car Christmas Ball in Samedan, just Diavolezza sounds lovely – in TASTIER THANKS TO here in the Engadin with a mountain before midnight on Christmas Eve. Rhaeto-Romanic. What does THE ALTITUDE station that is almost impossible for Connoisseurs swear by this Engadin They were married by New Year’s Day. its name mean in English? CORVATSCH hikers to reach – there’s no path, not speciality, air-dried rather than smoked Their happiness only lasted A: … Alpenglow – B: … Swamp even a climbing route up, so the cable – courtesy of the mountain air. Who DIAVOLEZZA a few hours. She was dead before the C: … Silver palace car passengers stay amongst makes the best kind? Opinions differ: wedding night. Shot. Look it D: … Triumvirate themselves. Where is it? Laudenbacher in La Punt? Heuberger up if you don’t believe us. A: Muottas Muragl – B: Piz Nair in St. Moritz? Or Hatecke, also in The hero’s name? C: Corvatsch – D: Diavolezza St. Moritz? All we want A: Sherlock Holmes – B: Robert Langdon to know: what's the name of this C: Clark Kent – D: James Bond MUOTTAS delicacy? ROSEGTAL MURAGL A: Copa – B: Capuns C: Salsiz – D: Schüblig

FEX FEDOZ PONTRESINA 4

ONE-DAY STOP FLAZ SILS The Rhaetian Railway sets MALOJA up a special stop here just FEXTAL for the day of the Engadin Ski Marathon. What is it called? A: Maloja Start – B: St. Moritz Ski C: Bever Park & Run D: S-chanf Marathon ST. MORITZ SILVAPLANA CELERINA PIZ NAIR VALLUN

9 INN SLEIGH ON TIME SAMEDAN A horse-drawn sleigh that runs to a timetable? Unique in ! Switzerland, and possibly in the ANSWERS world. On skids in winter, wheels ON in summer. PAGE 66 Where does it travel to? A: Val Fex – B: Val Roseg C: Puschlav – D: Val Bever LA PUNT 42 ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 WINTER 2018/2019 ST. MORITZ 43 CULTURE CULTURE ONWARDS PROFESSIONAL WITH STLE ATHLETES Après-skiers, professional athletes and trendsetters – they all meet on the Professional athletes stir up the sparkling powder snow snowy-white mountains and fabulous slopes of the Engadin. One thing that all with their freshly waxed skis, recording the breathtaking views and their beautifully executed turns with an winter sports enthusiasts share is a passion for good gear! We have compiled a action-cam. The finest gear is just about good enough selection of items that represent various slope styles. for conquering the mountains of the Engadin. As the “pro” spends the whole day out on the slopes, a backpack and drink are essential! APRÈS- SKIERS 1

This tribe is truly stylish on the 1 The Hato Lounge at slopes. Its members like to combine the Posthaus is ideal function and aesthetics. They for winding down after enjoy every single second of a day – a day in the mountains. and night – in the mountains. After all, the après-skier’s perfect day 2 has to have a suitably perfect ending.

2 In addition to beautifully prepared slopes, the Piz Corvatsch ski 3 resort also has the longest illuminated night piste in Switzerland and a large snowpark. At 3,303 metres above sea level, the Corvatsch mountain station is the highest in Grisons.

1. Better to be safe: P.RIDE by ABS has a capacity of 32 litres, and 1. Unisex sunglasses with bottle-green lenses and tortoiseshell-effect frame, comes with an avalanche airbag. 2. ou’ll have the right outlook from the 1856 St. Moritz Collection by Vogel Optik St. Moritz*. 2. The sun in any weather with these Bogner ski goggles. 3. Glacier Cream, as the symbol of St. Moritz adorns the decorative St. Moritz Limited Edition SPF 30 by Piz Buin, provides the optimum protection for skin in the bracelet by Cruciani. It was developed by Eveline Fasser Testa*. 3. Knitted button mountains. 4. The MTN Explore ski boot by Salomon with loops gloves from Cashmere House Lamm. 4. Vintage-look cashmere bandana from 5 will make any touring enthusiast happy with its 63° range of motion. Lala Berlin. 5. Candle St. Moritz INVIERN by Udur St. Moritz smells of gentian, 5. The Sigg thermos keeps tea and other hot drinks hot. 6. Thanks juniper and pine. Berlin-based perfumer Geza Schön was inspired by a cold to the action-cam with 4k video resolution and the ultra-wide-angle 5 6 4 winter’s day in the mountains.* format from Rollei, you can relive your brilliant manoeuvres

* via https://shop.stmoritz.ch/en/ PR, PR (5) Photos: Daniel Martinek/ Badrutt/ PR, PR (6) Photos: Andrea again at home.

44 ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 WINTER 2018/2019 ST. MORITZ 45 46 light, effortless turns are as perfect as the outfits theywear. turnsarelight, effortless asperfect astheoutfits accessories, trendsetters failtosetstyle standards never ontheslope.Their gadgets, Equippedwithallthelatest stylishskiingfashionsandchicselfie. With professional andstylishgear, trendsetters are always ready for theirnext TRENDSETTER 3 4 aggressive angleof attack. metatarsal offers andanexoskeleton loadedwithfibreglass, more aneven rating of 140,theHadeswith agradual with97mmwidthatthe flex by Dahu, modelLunetteschic sunglasses: byMoncler. 6.Men’s for skiboot truepros: tired yesterday’s5. Still after après-skisession?No guessinthese onewillever 4. ou’ll found always be withthewaterproof MiniGPSTracker from TKStar. with orangeprotection downjacket ontheslopes.3.Becca liningbyBogner. Moritz.St. 2.Thematchinglimitededitionof helmetsprovides optimal 1. TheseIndigo skiswiththeirstylish patternwere created incooperation with 2 CULTURE are simplybreathtaking. region. Theviews from theterrace the Corviglia(Celerina)skiing popular restaurant ElParadiso in the trendsetter headstothe When it‘stimefor abreak, 6 ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 ST. WINTER MORITZ 1 5

Photos: Mauritius Images, PR (6)

Fotos: Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx D WINTER 2018/2019 ST. 2018/2019 WINTER MORITZ ter all, Maria Bogner effectively invented ski overalls in the invented ski overalls Bogner effectively Maria ter all, of the overall. them. Af- to reinterpret destined Bogner was con- with cases some zips.trasting “Onesies” in are another trend, the and new version black, and yellow mustard with them We combine grey. of tinge a with shades include ours col- trend year’s This colour. different a revealing jacket, ski the under from out peeps that layer second a with work often We layering. of topic the there’s Then role. a plays also streetwear Luxury instead. loden or lambskin wool, more and collars, the on fur real less is There tionality. slopes? for the après-ski bar. bar. après-ski the for suitable as just is that look stylish a for it over worn be can on Depending the weather, a material. jacket down stretch high-performance with achieved is and course, of dies, la- for ex- ideal an is fit also tighter A is trendsetters. for which choice cellent suit, one-piece functional our love letes ath- and Professionals jacket. a and pants ski some needs ginner need? passion. our is fashion and functionality Combining them. to touch fashionable a always also is There columns. water as such background, functional a have all Ski Bogner at use we collections. our of development the behind values the dictate and us brand influence always The history its and important. extremely also are – brand the of ing understand- our and trends zeitgeist, the as such – factors Other slopes. the from away wearing for suitable equally are they – skiing for just not items these wear can user end the Bogner, At requirement. basic a is Functionality What will the 2018/19 trendsetter be wearing on the the on wearing be 2018/19trendsetter the will What What equipment is essential for a pro, is does and essential equipment aWhat what be- looks?and functionality are important How We have, of course, combined materials with func- with materials combined We of course, have, Someone who is just starting to ski really only only really ski to starting just is who Someone sgig k wa – ht o o fcs on? focus you do what – wear ski esigning himself. What makes thedi astylisherence between skioutﬁ t Bogner CEO Andreas Baumgärtner usually tests new designs new usuallytests Bogner CEOAndreasBaumgärtner WHAT’S ON-TRENDWHAT’S ONSNOW?

and excellent equipment?Weand excellent asked theexpert. The qualities qualities The INTERVIEW good ski boot, because that plays a key role. a on more spending worth also It’s comfortable. is and well You relevant. is extremely should have a good helmet that fits Moritz is such a special place for us. us. for place special a such is St. Moritz why is Which collection. Bogner the with parallels of lot a has It world. high-alpine the meets lifestyle onal rants, which are also to be found on the slopes. Internati-restau- fabulous the and après-ski the like I Corvatsch. alpine more the and snow, more often there’s where viglia, Cor- the like I Christmas. before weekend the Moritz St. city. the in wear notnecessarily might you that shade a for opt can You snow. the in colour with lot a do can you area, reflective white the of because that is thing fabulous The instance. for red, dark and Neon unexpected. are layers my of colours The ing. so it’sfor layer- ideal thin, very is The jacket layers. various with jacket tri-layer Bogner’s mix I’ll instance, For style. bine functional clothing with an individual, fashionable same The gloves. to applies individual. more it makes only that 100%, outfit the of rest the match doesn’t it if Actually, match. don’t to have patterns and Colours choice. excellent an is bandana season?this catcher regard towith silhouettes. especially options, new entirely up opening are materials in Developments past. the in case the necessarily wasn’t which today, functionality of level high a have items ble archives. 1950s. We some fabulous items from the have reinterpreted How have ski fashions changed in recent years? recent in changed fashions ski have How in? investing worth particularly are items What Where do you ski around St. Moritz? Moritz? St. around ski you do Where What does yourcom- own to skiing outfit consisttry I of? eye- an into look ski a turn will accessory luxurious What Scarves, for one. A cashmere scarf or scarf cashmere A one. for Scarves, Interview: Lisa Bierbauer Lisa Interview: Most years I’m in in I’m years Most Fashiona- Safety Safety 47 48 NATURAL BEAUT no one ever forgets St.Moritz. forgets whovisitusuallyendupreturning no oneever Those special deserve to be protected and appreciated. With projects that andappreciated. Withprojects tobeprotected special deserve unique wildlife, for instance. Allthethingsthatunique wildlife,forinstance. make thisplaceso to thevillage that issodierentfromanywhere else.Due toits The mountains,thelakes andthelightallhelptoensurethatThe don’t preach,butbringpleasure. SPORTERLEBNIS ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 ST. WINTER MORITZ

Photo: Claudio Gotsch

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BEASTLY GOOD FUN “WE HAVE ONE OF THE BIGGEST KEEP OUR IBEX COLONIES IN THE ALPS.” EES PEELED! Romano Salis, Gamekeeper There’s plenty to see in and around St. Moritz. Like the native ibex and 2 chamois, for instance. A conversation about the animals who live here and the best places to observe them.

ren’t they cute?! We talked Ato nature photographer Claudio Gotsch and gamekeeper Romano Salis about the animals who call the Engadin home. Which animals do you encounter most fre- 1 quently in and around St. Moritz? Claudio Gotsch: Marmots love living in colonies that can The most frequently spotted animals are clo- consist of several families (1). ven-hoofed varieties such as various types of deer, chamois and ibex. Of course, you’ll also see foxes, badgers and weasels. The list continues with almost every kind of fowl and duck, and lots of other small animals. It’s rare to see one of very few places in Switzerland where 3 a beaver, wolf or bear, although – having said they have been found again. The ibex is found in the that – sightings have increased slightly in recent What makes the Engadin such a haven for so 4 region. One of the biggest years. But if you do happen to see one of them, many different animal species? Claudio Gotsch: colonies is on Piz Albris near Pontresina. The female is know you are really lucky, because they are ex- There is still a lot of unspoilt, harsh nature, known as a “nanny” (2), the tremely shy and very rare. plus there’s the Swiss National Park, an male ibex is known as a environment that animals seek and find, and “billy” (3). Also at home in Are there any animal species that are only the Engadin: the squirrel (4). found in the Engadin? where they feel very much at home. Romano Salis: There are none that are ex- Are there any species whose populations have clusive to the Engadin. One fascinating crea- significantly increased or decreased in recent ture is the yellow tiger moth, which lives in the years? Romano Salis: Yes, above all the red deer. Alps above the tree level. It has only been dis - The numbers of this wild species have covered in the Alps, in Bulgaria and in Siberia. increased all over the Canton of Grisons. But as Do any very rare animals live in the Engadin? they are extremely shy, it is still difficult to ob- Romano Salis: Yes, one of them is the otter. As serve them in the wild. the result of habitat loss and water contamina- Are any species protected? Romano Salis: tion in the past century, this species has be - There are several. The ibex is one of the special

come extinct in Switzerland. The Engadin is ones, and may only be hunted for a short Photos: Claudio Gotsch (nos. 1,3), Raphi Bauer (no. 2), Shutterstock

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With a little luck, you may also see the following animals in the Engadin: mountain hare (1), red fox (2), deer (3) or bearded vulture (4). ABOUT CLAUDIO GOTSCH The nature photographer from La Punt is best known for his highly expressive black-and-white animal photography. Claudio Gotsch’s best photos are taken in summer – “when the animals are active from early until late”. His favourite Engadin animals are deer, eagles and bearded vultures – “but to be honest, every animal has its 1 own fascination and beauty, which 4 is why they really are all my favourites.” Still missing from his photo gallery? Wolf and bear! “OU ARE SURE TO BE ABLE www.engadin-foto.ch TO OBSERVE ANIMALS ABOUT ROMANO SALIS IN THE NATIONAL PARK.” By profession, Romano Salis is a Claudio Gotsch, nature photographer gamekeeper and mountain guide – but another of his serious passions is photography. He is particularly im- pressed with mountainscapes, where he frequently encounters the Engadin to roads and tracks because they do not live fauna. The Pontresina native likes naturally in their home range, but are encour- chamois most of all. “Simply because 2 3 aged to wander towards the food offered by it’s such a pretty animal, with its dark humans. Deer often have to be shot because fur and white markings.” One of the they lose their natural shyness when they are animals he most recently encountered period in October. A hunter has to wait a long boards with maps on the periphery of the wild- fed. Go to www.stop-fuetterung.ch to find out in the wild was the rock partridge. time before he may shoot an ibex. Every animal life reserves. There are also banners and why feeding wild animals does more harm www.salisromano.ch has to be approved. boundaries to designate the reserves. For de- than good. What is the best way to act if you encounter a tails of all the protected areas in Switzerland, What do the animals eat in winter? Romano wild animal to avoid frightening it? Claudio please go to www.wildruhe.gr.ch. Salis: Chamois, for instance, only eat old grass, Gotsch: No sudden movements, retreat slowly What is the biggest mistake you can make if lichen, pine needles and small shrubs in and quietly. And most importantly: keep dogs you encounter a wild animal? Romano Salis: winter. Red deer in the Bergell spend the The best times to observe the animals are at on a lead, in particular in winter and spring, To run after it, or to touch it if it is injured. winter in the lower part of the valley, where dawn and dusk. when the animals’ energy reserves are low. Claudio Gotsch: To try to follow, or even chase there is much less snow and they can find more How do you approach the animals to photo- What is the purpose of the wildlife reserves? the animal once it has started to flee. food. graph them in their natural setting? Claudio Romano Salis: First and foremost, wildlife re- Are we allowed to feed the animals? Claudio So there’s no need for us to help? Romano Gotsch: I spend days studying the animals and serves are intended for the hunting commu- Gotsch: Absolutely not! This was prohibited Salis: No, only in very exceptional cases, and their habits from a distance. This shows me how nity. They are retreats for the wild animals, by law in 2017, and you may be penalised for this is then regulated by the Canton to protect not to disturb them or chase them away. The and should also be respected by the rest of it. Information is essential here – a lot of peo- the animals. best photos are achieved when the animal the population wherever possible. They are ple aren’t aware that they can do more harm Where are good places around St. Moritz to comes to me, and not the other way around. Ro- marked in red and yellow. These markings than good by feeding the animals. The ani- observe the animals? Claudio Gotsch: In the mano Salis: Do not disturb them. Patience is es- should not be followed, as they usually lead mals are set up for natural food sources in national park, with or without a guide. The sential, as it can take a while to get a shot. You into rough terrain. winter, as are their stomachs. Organic waste, chances of observing an animal are excellent, have to know the animals well. The wind is also Where can I find out more about these re- compost heaps and other food may result in a and almost guaranteed in the unspoilt and important so the animals don’t get your scent.

serves? Claudio Gotsch: There are information painful death. Hoofed game often fall victim Photos: Claudio Gotsch (nos. 1,3), Romano Salis (nos. 2,4) fabulous Engadin landscape. Romano Salis: Interview: Lisa Bierbauer

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ICE STUPA VILLAGE ENGADIN FEELING FOR SNOW

A very special natural monument can be seen at the foot of the Morteratsch glacier in winter – consisting of spherical structures made of ice. Glaciologist Felix Keller explains what these so-called ice stupas are all about.

PHOTOS: ROMANO SALIS, NICOLA PITARO

he hikers who have just set off audience that the Ladakhi have come up with on their way to the Morteratsch glacier are not an impressively simple solution. In winter, Visitors can explore the formation of the sure what these ice structures are all about. they divert the little water that there is in the ice stupas through T two entrances. Five glistening mounds, nestled together on rivers, and spray it up vertically to create an the edge of the forest, in sight of the station. attractive, spherical ice structure. The water The pointed shapes are not unlike Buddhist freezes, with the result that ice spheres of up stupas – hemispherical temples that are often to 20 metres in height are formed in and on seen in India. the wickerwork that then melt in the spring “ONL POSITIVE Glaciologist Felix Keller, wearing a safety and water the plants. This technology has been helmet, has positioned himself at the entrance used in the Himalayas for generations. EXPERIENCES to the ice sculpture. “The stupas are not my in- But what is the purpose of the ice stupas WILL PERSUADE PEOPLE vention,” he explains to the visitors. “They can here at Morteratsch station – which, after all, usually be found in Ladakh in India, and are doesn’t appear to be situated in a desert area TO CHANGE used to irrigate the fields.” The glaciologist like Ladakh? “They are intended to draw at- THEIR THINKING.” continues so that his listeners can file away the tention to the disappearance of the glacier,” ex- information. “Ladakh is a mountain desert plains Keller, “and to encourage visitors to do Felix Keller, glaciologist and initiator of “Ice Stupa Artificial Glaciers of Ladakh” with low precipitation at an altitude of around something to preserve the environment.” The 3,500 metres. In spring, which is the period of 56-year-old researcher and initiator of this symbolic project is convinced only positive ex- Over a period of two months, the five ice stupas close to the Morteratsch germination, it lacks the water needed for ag- glacier grew together to form a single structure that is intended to draw riculture.” The scientist goes on to assure his periences will persuade people to change their people’s attention to the need to protect the ice.

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30 years. The water required for it could be OVER THE WINTER, WILLOW taken from a recently formed glacier lake that is 200 metres higher than the glacier. Then the BRANCHES GRADUALL BECOME snowmaking facility could be operated solely A MEMORIAL TO NATURE. by the potential energy of the water – no elec- tricity required. However, it would also require 300 snow lances. Alternatively, Keller ex - plains, you could attach a smaller number of snow lances to cable cars. They would operate at night like a mobile sprinkler system and by day be used to transport people. But all this is still in the future. Felix Keller has already presented the model to the scientific community and to the local authorities. The initial re - sponses were positive, although everyone agrees that such a facility would not be a pretty sight. “You have to weigh up the pros and In the beginning is a wickerwork of willow Snow farming on cons,” says the glaciologist. “But in the long branches (1) that freezes over during the winter the Diavolezza: months to create an ice sculpture with thousands term, it’s about preserving the Morteratsch lengths of white of icicles (2). Glaciologist Felix Keller also plays fabric prevent the glacier as a fresh-water reservoir for future the violin (3). Visitors are invited to explore the snow on the first inside of the ice stupas (4). generations.” section of the slope from melting. The winter sport community in particular 2 thinking, and not admonitory finger-wagging. would love it if the glacier and slopes in the The five stupas are also meant to be fun, and Engadin were to continue to offer good skiing visitors are invited to step inside. Numerous conditions. And much is already being done in helpers, including school children from Pon- the region to ensure this. When the season tresina, constructed five domes made from ends in May, for instance, staff on the Cor - willow branches, and linked them together vatsch cable car get to work to cover the first with woven pergolas. Water was then brought section of the slope in lengths of white fabric. here from the neighbouring Bernina stream “This prevents most of the snow from melting and sprayed over the woven branches so it in the summer,” explains Philipp Erne of freezes. Within two months, an ice sculpture Corvatsch AG. For about a week, ten members had grown, with openings like an igloo so vis- of staff are occupied with laying the fleeces itors can explore the structure. They put on a measuring 70 x 5 metres over the 200-metre helmet before entering it – after all, they could slope with the help of a snowcat. “We used to easily bump their heads on the thousands of have to generate snow in this area, but not any icicles hanging from the ceilings inside the more, which is also better for the environment. domes. And as if this sight were not enough: And thanks to this snow farming, we can also sometimes Felix Keller, who is an excellent vi- start the season earlier,” he adds. He and his olinist, performs inside or outside the stupas. colleagues are also at work on the Diavolezza. He has also often performed outdoors with In the spring, piste workers cover an area be- other musicians and friends to draw attention low the mountain station that is three times to the plight of the eternal ice. Including right bigger than the section on the Corvatsch. The on the Morteratsch glacier. And as well as us- pieces of fabric are usually removed in Octo- ing violin music to halt the melting process, ber, when the winter season starts. At the bot- INFO the glaciologist also has a clear plan. “It would tom of the slope, skiers can then admire an be enough if we only had regular snow on 10% eye-catching construction made of willow Exploration of the Ice Stupa Village is of the ice area, which would be one square branches in the form of several stupas – which, best combined with a walk to the Val kilometre. Then the Morteratsch glacier would over the course of winter, will become a me - Morteratsch and start to grow again.” The downside is that this morial to nature. 3 4 the Morteratsch

Photos: private (1) glacier. would have to be done regularly for a period of Author: Stefan Skiera

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Photo: Romano Salis WINTER 2018/2019 ST. 2018/2019 WINTER MORITZ ARTS Zangger andhisclients,it’sZangger hiswooden furniturerootedinEngadin Of allthethingsthat precious:items wepossess,thesearethemost history. Nora Engels, ontheotherhand,putsallherpassioninto that weassociate withspecialmemories.For carpenter Ramon the alphorns that sometimes even movehertotears… even the alphornsthat sometimes

SPORTERLEBNIS CRAFTS 59 60 the barn of a 13th-century 13th-century a of barn the once room, elongated the in high stacked are pine stone Swiss of Planks workshop. pentry fragrancepermeatesZangger’sRamon car tween 1,200 metres and 2,800 metres, and and 1,200 has metres metres, 2,800 tween nus cembra) grows in the alpine region- Pi name at be- (botanical conifer the majestic, and individual Gnarled, wood. of type favourite format. desired the to cut precisely being before sanded then then planed, finely ground, first is wood the of surface the plank, perfect the To become running. are machines cessing wood-pro Several designer. and carpenter the explains fuel,” as waste the use we and neers, ve or floorboards into parts other furniture, its use. The ‘fillets’ are turned into solid wood a and of provides wealth options for structures wood different many conceals trunk tree gle “A nose. the sin tickles resin their of scent the and processed, be to waiting are They house. A Back to the stone pine, Ramon Zangger’s Zangger’s Ramon pine, stone the to Back numerous designawards creations. We forhistimeless,functional visitedthe Ramon Zangger wantshisfurnituremadeof Ramon Zangger Engadin woodtogivepeoplea sense of home, comfort and reﬂection. The carpenterhasalreadywon The andreﬂection. sense ofhome,comfort BEAUTIFUL UNI tog aromatic strong, furniture maker’s workshopinSamedan. nai farm Engadin PHOTOS: ROMANO SALIS REGIONAL FURNITURE DESIGN ARTS - - - - - unique items with a special charm. charm. special a with items unique see you’ll and showroom, the around look a Have language. design own his developed also he carpentry, traditional with Along Basel. from Grisons to came originally who ter, contemporary interiors,” the explains carpen into grain striking its with wood this tegrate in to I found it difficult “At modern. the first, and traditional the between gap the bridging been has carpenter the years, 25 over For last. to built is that furniture modern creates He in. comes Zangger Ramon where is this And timeless. and original both is that beauty a radiate These rooms. interiors pine-panelled crafted artistically contain houses Engadin Numerous immemorial. time since used been symbol that has symbol long been used in the sun a rosettes, oversized two “spler”: board on based are furniture Zangger’s on decorations the and forms proportioned beautifully the bles, & Dressers, cupboards, chairs, stools and ta and stools chairs, cupboards, Dressers, CRAFTS UEL Engadin traditions. Such as the cup the as Such traditions. Engadin Engadin, Engadin, - - - -

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Fotos: Xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx WINTER 2018/2019 ST. 2018/2019 WINTER MORITZ KNOWING HOW TOHANDLE “CRAFTING MEANS “CRAFTING THE MATERIAL.” Ramon Zangger, master carpenter

MANUFAKTUR

the traditional Ramon Zangger’s furniture on naturally modern pieces with display inhisshowroom: Engadin charm. 61 ARTS & CRAFTS

story behind it.” The mineral baths at Samedan are furnished with pieces by Ramon Zangger, the “ziccalin” stool is on permanent display at the Swiss National Museum, and Zangger has carried out interior designs in St. Moritz and the surrounding area for renowned architects and developers. However, it is not only solid stone pine, walnut, oak and ash that enthrall Whatever Ramon Zangger makes out of wood is built to Ramon Zangger. “You can also create appeal- last. Not only is his furniture practical, but every item ing furniture and interiors such as kitchens us- also tells a piece of Engadin history. ing wood veneer,” he states. “The effort is sim- ilar, but the advantage is clear: veneer does not warp in heat and cold.” Furthermore, a far greater surface area can be generated from a single trunk when it is cut into thin slices, then glued to fibreboard as a special finish. “Both have their value; it depends entirely on what the furniture is to be used for.” From time to time, interested parties come to Ramon Zangger with a special request. Whether an external commission or his own idea, first the designer puts the idea down on dominate the massive cabinet. The decoration paper, then one of his seven staff enters the The birth of every single item of Zangger furniture: on the “recham” and “schatulla” cupboards is sketch in the computer, and finally the actual getting the idea down on paper before a sketch is only revealed when the doors are open. Inci- item is produced. “I usually show the prototy - produced on the computer (above). Some of the items are decorated – for instance with ornamentation (below). dentally, the latter is Zangger’s personal fa- pe to my wife for her opinion before I carry on vourite. Why? “The ‘schatulla’ is a concentra- working on it.” The designer is in no way reluc- tion of my functional creative work using a tant to use technology. Computers and highly ABOUT RAMON ZANGGER regional material – solid and unadorned. The specialised machines are essential in the car- Ramon Zangger was born in Basel in 1953, and grew metal fitting, which I developed myself, opens pentry workshop today. The lasering and mil- up in Bombay, India, and various parts of Switzerland. to 270 degrees, and also prevents the natural ling of rosettes or embroidered embellish - After school, he trained as a carpenter (Davos) and contortion of the board.” Also, “The integrated ments into wood are also computerised. technical interior designer (Zurich). In 1982 he was made traditional ornamentation from our own re- “The craftsmanship is in knowing how to manager of his father-in-law’s carpentry business in gional culture warms the heart.” Zangger has handle the material, and how to best reach Samedan, which he and his wife, Emilia, took over in 1984. by no means exhausted all the possible deco- your goal quickly. We have to work creatively In 1995, Ramon Zangger started working on his own rative options. One corner of the showroom and economically.” collection of contemporary Engadin furniture. houses a collection of new drilled patterns. In everything he does, Ramon Zangger is

This was followed by interior design projects for renowned INFO The designer’s furniture appeals to discern- true to his own cultural frame of reference, architects and developers. The furniture maker has ing individuals: culturally and environmental- creating new things from its idiosyncrasies also been committed to culture for many years, and has Ramon Zangger ly aware individuals, collectors and connois- and its points of difference from other places. Möbelwerkstatt built the platform “La Tuor” for craft, architecture Surtour 12 seurs, friends of the region. “Our clientèle seek He calls it “staying unique”. And you can see and design in Samedan. 7503 Samedan an emotional connection with the item, per- this claim in every single piece. T: +41 81 852 54 95 www.ramonzangger.ch haps a sense of home, and are interested in the Author: Eva Holz Egle

62 ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 WINTER 2018/2019 ST. MORITZ 63 INTERVIEW INTERVIEW

WHAT IF … ... ST. MORITZ WERE AN INSTRUMENT?

Nora Engels has lots of hobbies. She loves all kinds of sports, plays the alphorn – and has even made them herself. She has been fascinated

by the traditional instrument for many years, and she only used Swiss stone The alphorn is pine to make her own. An interview on the value of the traditional. suitable for any occasion and is always well received, says Nora Engels.

ABOUT NORA ENGELS Nora Engels has been fascinated by the alphorn ever since she first started rau Engels, if St. Moritz were an in- playing it about seven years ago. To it is made. And as I am a trained carpenter, I focusing more on my work as a sculptor. I strument – which one would it be? The town has date, Beverin-born Nora has made five was already familiar with most of the ma- coloured one of my alphorns black, and then Fso many facets, so I see a different instrument alphorns and sold three of them. The chines used to make it. I often heard people carved a spiral of edelweiss, gentian and for- for every time of the year. When I think of win- trained carpenter is currently say that using the branches of the stone pine get-me-nots along it from the pipe cup to the ter and the many guests who come here from undergoing her second course of has a negative effect on the sound, but still I hand tube to reveal the light wood beneath. At all over the world, I think of a huge orchestra training as a wood carver in Brienz. couldn’t resist trying it for myself, so I started first I thought there was no way I could colour playing a piece by Ludwig van Beethoven. In “Working with wood is really fulfill- making alphorns entirely from the wood of the an instrument made of stone pine black, but spring, when it’s quieter and you mainly see lo- ing,” says Nora, 28. Whether animals, Engadin pine. In the end, I made beautiful, my brother simply said, “Nothing ventured, cals, I associate St. Moritz with the alphorn – ornaments, people or abstract objects, simple Swiss stone pine alphorns without any nothing gained!” So now I have a very elegant natural sounds in a beautiful landscape. In Nora Engels carves something every frills. alphorn that might not be perfect for playing summer, when athletes come here to train and day. One of her dearest wishes What exactly was it that you found so fasci- in harsh sunlight, but I get tremendous pleas- there are guests and locals strolling around the is to have her own studio. Where? “In nating about making instruments? Primarily, it’s ure from playing my ‘Sunntigsalphorn’, and lake, it’s a cheerful trumpet. And in golden au- the Engadin, of course – it’s my home.” the wood – and then the natural sounds of the now I know that a black instrument sounds tumn, I hear a harp accompanying the dance alphorn. They move me so much that some- lower if it is played in the sun. of the falling leaves. times when I am playing, I find I have tears in How long does it take to build an alphorn? On which occasions would it be played? Any my eyes. Most alphorn builders keep quiet And what does it require? You need to know a occasion, whether athletic, cultural or tradi- about how they do it. Their experience, exper- tremendous amount about the wood. It also tional, because music has a fundamental and tise and construction methods are passed helps if you have an ear for the music and, of essential role to play. It simply belongs. The down over generations, and they are unwilling course, a lot of experience. All in all, it takes alphorn, for instance, can always be used, and to pass on their knowledge. One of them once about 80 hours to make one, but of course is always very well received. said to me, “You are your own best teacher”, that depends on the construction method. I You have made a number of alphorns yourself and that’s something I have never forgotten. If personally am fascinated by the alphorn mak- – an unusual activity for a young woman. How did you really want to do something, you will. ers who do everything by hand, such as Walter this come about? Ever since I started playing What inspires the designs of your new Bachmann.

the alphorn, I have been fascinated by the way Cloetta; photos: private, PR Pascal Illustration: alphorns? I’m full of ideas, but I am currently Interview: Lisa Bierbauer

64 ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 WINTER 2018/2019 ST. MORITZ 65 SUMMER 2019

Where to go in the Engadin to cool off in summer? Perhaps one of the many lakes. We present our favourites. PREVIEW A new issue will be published in May 2019 – quite literally. What has so far been a magazine about St. Moritz is going to be a publication about the Engadin. We are looking forward to even more stories about the dreamiest destination in the world.

ALLEGRA! 2019 SEES A NEW CHAPTER WITH A MAGAZINE ABOUT THE ENGADIN The Gallery Stalla Madulain is located in the centre of Madulain – in a historic barn! Young and established artists find an inspiring backdrop for their works here. We pay this special gallery a visit.

ANSWERS TO THE QUIZ ON PAGE 42

1 Tastier thanks to the altitude: SOLUTION C he meets Tracy – and the two marry a few days Cresta Run from St. Moritz down to Celeri- Salsiz is the famous air-dried sausage. later. Sadly, Tracy is shot dead immediately na. Women are generally not allowed to ride, 2 Nearer, my God, to Thee: SOLUTION D Artist after the wedding. but exceptions can be made, most recently in Giovanni Segantini is buried in the small cem- 4 One-day stop: SOLUTION D The Rhaetian January 2018. etery at Maloja. His painting “The Consolation Railway calls at this special stop set up at the 8 Pathless: SOLUTION C It is not possible to get of Faith” is of this cemetery. end of the Engadin ski marathon. to the summit station on Piz Corvatsch on foot 3 Shotgun wedding: SOLUTION D James Bond 5 Melodious name: SOLUTION B Piz Palü – the from the valley as there are no paths or hiking getting married? Yes, both in the film and in name that is as melodious as the mountain is trails. However, there are many trails and paths “On Her Majesty’s Secret Service”, Ian Fleming’s lovely – means “swamp” (palus in Latin). from the middle station. novel on which it was based. It’s only in the 6 Against the flow: SOLUTION A The Flaz flows 9 Sleigh on time: SOLUTION B In winter, the book that this takes place in the Engadin: Bond into the Inn at Samedan. As the Flaz usually horse-drawn sleigh runs from Pontresina to escapes from villain Blofeld’s fortress on the Piz carries more water than the Inn, it should actu- Val Roseg, and in summer the horse-drawn Gloria. In dire straits, he manages to get to the ally be called Flaz from here. carriage – to a timetable. ice rink in Samedan, where a Christmas ball 7 Showdown: SOLUTION A Fearless daredevils

just happens to be taking place. That’s where hurtle head-first along the ice channel of the Romano Salis Images, Photos: Mauritius

66 ST. MORITZ WINTER 2018/2019 “IT IS THE HARMON BETWEEN NATURE AND THE INTERNATIONAL FLAIR THAT MAKES THIS PLACE SO SPECIAL.”

NATASCHA LAMM, MANAGING DIRECTOR CASHMERE HOUSE LAMM ST. MORITZ

Engadin St. Moritz Tourismus AG Via San Gian 30 CH-7500 St. Moritz www.engadin.stmoritz.ch

WINTER 2016/2017 ST. MORITZ 3