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Contents

List of Maps vi

What’s New in 1

1 The Best of Bermuda 5 1 The Best Beaches ...... 5 9 The Best Historic Sights ...... 14 2 The Best Outdoor Pursuits ...... 8 10 The Best Places to Experience 3 The Best Dive Sites ...... 9 Old Bermuda ...... 14 4 The Best Golf Courses ...... 10 11 Bermuda’s Best-Kept Secrets ...... 15 5 The Best Tennis Facilities ...... 10 12 The Best Resorts for Lovers & Honeymooners ...... 15 6 The Best Day Hikes ...... 11 13 The Best Places to Stay 7 The Best Sailing Outfitters ...... 11 with the Kids ...... 16 The Baffling Bermuda Triangle . . . .12 14 The Best Hotel Bargains ...... 17 8 The Best View ...... 12 15 The Best Restaurants ...... 17

2 Planning Your Trip to Bermuda 19 1 Visitor Information ...... 19 6 Travel Insurance ...... 34 Destination Bermuda: 7 Health & Safety ...... 35 Red-Alert Checklist ...... 20 8 Specialized Travel Resources ...... 37 2 Entry Requirements & Customs . . . .21 9 Planning Your Trip Online ...... 39 3 Money ...... 24 Frommers.com: The Complete What Things Cost in Bermuda . . . . .25 Travel Resource ...... 40 The U.S./Bermuda Dollar 10 The 21st-Century Traveler ...... 40 & the British Pound ...... 26 Online Traveler’s Toolbox ...... 42 4 When to Go ...... 28 11 Getting There: Flying to Bermuda . . .43 Getting Sucked In: The Official Flying with Film & Video ...... 45 Word on the Bermuda Triangle . . . .29 12 Booking a Travel Package ...... 46 COPYRIGHTEDBermuda Calendar of Events ...... 29 MATERIAL 13 Cruising to Bermuda ...... 47 5 Planning an Island Wedding 14 Recommended Reading ...... 50 or Honeymoon ...... 33 02_588893_ftoc.qxd 8/2/05 10:08 PM Page iv

iv CONTENTS

3 Getting to Know Bermuda 51 1 Arriving ...... 51 4 Getting Around ...... 62 Did You Know? ...... 52 Island-Hopping on Your Own . . . . .63 2 Orienting Yourself: The Lay Fast Facts: Bermuda ...... 66 of the Land ...... 53 3 Bermuda in a Nutshell: Suggested Itineraries for 1 to 5 Days ...... 60

4 Where to Stay 73 1 Resort Hotels ...... 76 Family-Friendly Accommodations . . .91 2 Small Hotels ...... 84 4 Housekeeping Units ...... 94 3 Cottage Colonies ...... 89 5 Guesthouses ...... 99

5 Where to Dine 104 1 From Rockfish to Island Rum: 7 City of Hamilton (Pembroke Dining, Bermuda Style ...... 105 Parish) ...... 121 2 Restaurants by Cuisine ...... 107 Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . . .128 3 ...... 110 8 ...... 135 4 Southampton Parish ...... 114 9 Smith’s Parish ...... 135 5 ...... 119 10 ...... 136 6 ...... 120 11 St. George Parish ...... 138

6 Fun in the Surf & Sun 142 1 Beaches ...... 142 Hanging Out with the Dolphins . . .154 2 Snorkeling ...... 147 5 Where to Play Some of A Look Under Bermuda’s the World’s Best Golf ...... 155 Waters ...... 148 6 Other Outdoor Pursuits: Biking, 3 Scuba Diving ...... 148 Horseback Riding & Tennis ...... 158 Walking Underwater ...... 150 Exploring Bermuda’s Natural Wonderlands ...... 160 4 More Fun in the Water ...... 152 7 Spectator Sports ...... 161

7 Seeing the Sights 163 1 Island Highlights ...... 163 Insider Tours: “Bermuda 2 Organized Tours ...... 165 Explorers Program” ...... 169 Frommer’s Favorite Bermuda 3 Sandys Parish ...... 170 Experiences ...... 168 Especially for Kids ...... 171 02_588893_ftoc.qxd 8/2/05 10:08 PM Page v

CONTENTS v A Park of Your Own ...... 173 8 Devonshire Parish ...... 179 Stepping Back into the Ice Age . . .174 9 Smith’s Parish ...... 179 4 Southampton Parish ...... 174 10 Hamilton Parish ...... 180 5 Warwick Parish ...... 174 11 St. George Parish ...... 181 6 Paget Parish ...... 174 Special Places Where You 7 & the City Can Be Alone ...... 184 of Hamilton ...... 175 St. George: A World African Diaspora Heritage Trail . . .178 Heritage Site ...... 186

8 Island Strolls 188 Walking Tour 1: The City Rattle & Shake: The Bermuda of Hamilton ...... 188 Railway Trail ...... 195 Walking Tour 2: Historic Walking Tour 3: Sandys Parish . . .196 St. George Town ...... 192

9 Shopping 200 1 The Shopping Scene ...... 201 Counterculture Shopping ...... 207 2 In the City of Hamilton ...... 202 3 Around the Island ...... 210

10 Bermuda After Dark 213 1 The Club & Music Scene ...... 213 3 The Performing Arts ...... 216 2 The Bar Scene ...... 214

Appendix: Bermuda in Depth 219 1 The Natural World: An Environmental 4 Bermuda Style at Its Best: Guide to Bermuda ...... 220 Island Architecture ...... 229 2 Life in the Onion Patch ...... 223 5 The Rhythms of Bermuda ...... 230 3 History 101 ...... 225 6 Island of the Sunday Painter . . . . .232 Dateline ...... 225 7 Prospero, a Lovesick Poet & Other Bermudian Literary Legacies . . . . .233

Index 235

General Index ...... 235 Restaurant Index ...... 243 Accommodations Index ...... 243 02_588893_ftoc.qxd 8/2/05 10:08 PM Page vi

List of Maps

Bermuda 6 Bermuda’s Best Golf Courses 156 Bermuda’s Parishes 54 Attractions Around the Island 166 Where to Stay in Bermuda 78 Walking Tour 1: The City Where to Stay in the City of Hamilton 189 of Hamilton 81 Walking Tour 2: Historic Where to Dine in Bermuda 112 St. George Town 193 Where to Dine in the City Walking Tour 3: Sandys Parish 197 of Hamilton 123 Shopping in the City of Hamilton 203 Where to Dine in St. George 139 Bermuda’s Best Public Beaches & Snorkel Sites 144