From Eastern Europe with Love
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If there’s any food that epitomizes winter, it is soup. During cold spells, there’s nothing quite as inviting as tucking into a warm bowl of soup — it’s soul-food ,Radist 123RF at its tasty best. While many believe that “soup is a cozy consolation amid the storm”, others - like this writer - believe that “come rain or shine”, soup is ideal all year round, irrespective of the weather. More than that, soup is my preferred course in any meal. Anytime, anywhere, a plate of hot broth is always welcome - “Its in my DNA,” I oft tell my friends, who accuse me of being meshuggah (crazy) when enjoying it during Israel’s blazing hot summer! Its hard not to see how food and culture are inextricably connected, mapping where we come from, what we’re Jewish Penicillin. Traditional chicken soup served in Israel with experienced along the way and essentially defining Shkedei marak (soup almonds), which are small yellow squares made who we are. from flour and palm oil. I once read that there was a tradition among Chinese families to keep a pot of soup on the stove - for I recall my Bobba (grandmother) from Ritiva generations! They would top it off all day with vegetable ‘prescribing’ chicken soup when her grandkids and meat scraps, bones and herbs, and keep it on the were sick. She always had some explanation that stove simmering away ad infinitum. This meant that sounded all the more plausible in her inimitable every time they drank the soup, they were paying Litvak (Lithuanian) Yiddish. If one would not argue homage to their ancestors - respecting family continuity. with the Rambam over chicken soup, even less so Ans so it is with cuisine in Israel where even soup reflects than with a Litvak Bobby! the origins of its citizens. So, whatever the explanation, chicken soup has remained the mainstay of Jewish cuisine from the FROM EASTERN EUROPE Middle Ages - more to do - I believe because of Jewish WITH LOVE grandmothers than the authoritative reasoning of the Rambam. Of all the homemade winter cure-alls, chicken soup is Talking tachlis (Yiddish for getting to the heart of the the best known and most loved - frequently referred matter), classic chicken soup is prepared as a simple to as “Jewish Penicillin”. It is idiomatic for all things broth with a few vegetables, such as onion, carrot restorative - benefiting every possible problem from and celery, and herbs such as dill and parsley. More the head to the soul. Who would argue with Rabbi elaborate versions are prepared by Sephardim with orzo Moses Maimonides, known as the Rambam, who in or rice, or the addition of lemon juice or herbs such as the 12th century published in his “Medical Responsa” mint or coriander , while Ashkenazim may add noodles. the many health benefits of chicken soup for a range A typical Israel addition to chicken soup is Shkedei ,(literally soup almonds , שקדי מרק :of ailments from pneumonia to a runny nose? marak (Hebrew Some of this may explain the traditional use by Jews known as mandlakh in Yiddish, or as “soup mandels” of chicken soup as a Sabbath meal and the pious in the United States. They are crisp mini croutons used perceptions of its healing qualities. as a soup accompaniment. Fall-Winter 2019-20 | 23.