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FROM THE CHAIRMAN Contents From the Chairman Hello Members. 1 The Main Guard party at the end of

May was a great success, nearly Events and Promotions 2 eighty members attended along with the Berwick Civic Party and Obituary – J.W.Blench the Civic Head and Deputy Head 4 of County Council.

Civic Society News – Member's Louise and Bill Dryden Main Guard Volunteers 6 and their daughter Rosalind Membership Renewal 8 organised a fantastic buffet and lots of refreshments, a good time

was had by all. Recent Talks – Borderland Growth Deal 10 This year’s exhibition in the Officers room, The Outlaw King in Sense of Place 12 Berwick, was suggested by Sandra Question Time 14 Dods, and a new children’s exhibition in the Soldiers room, Other Items – organised by John Webster and Madelaine Ferrer, featured Berwick Barracks Update 16 medieval Berwick with attractive 19c Water Squabbles 19 and informative artwork by Tania Northumberland’s Early History 20 Willis. Global Warming – should we worry? 23 In July I attended Longridge Towers school Founders Day with

Zoreen Lady Hill and then Office Bearers represented the society at the 24 official opening of the new Visitor Centre in Walkergate, Chris Hardy is to be commended for this privately funded venture. 1

This summer the society has EVENTS AND supported local events with donations to help with costs. PROMOTIONS

Berwick is showing signs of On Wednesday, 8th May we held improvement and hopefully work the postponement talk from the will start on the development of a AGM given by James Lowther, new hospital on the existing site. Head of Visual Arts. It was well worth the wait - James' theme was Empty shops are being let so that "Sense of Place; Artists and their is great news and The Borderlands Responses to Berwick" and, in Growth Deal is another source of particular, he described the investment for the town. exhibition on them due to held in The Granary of Turners paintings - Also the Harbour Commission Northern Exposure has been much have been awarded a grant to acclaimed. replace the damaged alignment pier which is vital to the survival of The Main Guard Summer Tweedmouth Dock. The project Exhibition Preview Party on 30th had been delayed by English May was attended by about eighty Nature who wanted an ecological guests which included The Civic survey done. Party - The Mayor, Anne Forbes, her consort Tony Forbes, The I would like to thank everyone who Sheriff, and Sheriff's lady; Mr and has worked hard to make the Civic Mrs Martin Warner. Society a vibrant and important part of Berwick. In particular, This was regarded as one of the Michael Gallico our Treasurer, best ever parties with a delicious John Webster who looks after the buffet organised by Louise and Bill newsletter and IT systems, and a Dryden and Rosalind Dryden. welcome to Anne Humphrey who Although, the weather was not all has taken on the role of Secretary. that great, serving the drinks Without you all the society could outside proved successful. Sandra not carry on. Dod's Exhibition on , The Outlaw King, has been Ian Dods much acclaimed this four-month season.

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On Wednesday, 12th June there Richard lll's remains in Leicester was a very lively and interesting so it was very appropriate that on "Visions for Berwick" Question Wednesday, 10th July this year Time with panellists; John Bell, Paul East, Director of Outland Manager of Berwick Youth Project Architects gave a talk on the and Chairman of Berwick Rangers, creation of the Richard lll Visitor Donna Goddard, Chairman of Centre and the result of further Governors at Berwick Academy excavations. and Andy Richardson, Chairman of the Berwick Harbour Commission.

On Thursday, 4th July, Chairman Ian Dods and Zoreen Hill attended the Longridge Towers School Founder's Day Prizegiving where our annual prize was presented to sixth former, Daniel Caddick for his great contribution to sport especially in coaching young players in cricket and rugby. His own many sporting successes include winning the Guy Comber Spirit of Cricket Award at Tillside in 2017 and the Josh Smith Trophy at Berwick Rugby Club for his significant contribution. The new Richard III

As always, this was a very Visitor Centre at Leicester enjoyable occasion. Eminent cleric, educationalist and Paul and his wife, Susan broadcaster, Professor Norman Hallsworth have acquired the Drummond was the guest speaker building by the Barracks and the with the prizes being presented by Cowport to run their businesses. his wife; Lady Elizabeth. It is now named The Straw Yard In 2016 and 2017, Sandra and they have done a superb job in Pendlington of the Richard lll renovating the site. Report and Society gave fascinating talks on photographs concerning this the history and discovery of meeting appear in this Newsletter. 3

The Heritage Open Days took OBITUARY place 13th - 15th September with Berwick; "punching well above its JOHN WHEATLEY weight" with thirty-eight events in BLENCH the programme. Linda Bankier had calculated 8,000 visitors came to take part which exceeded the It was with great sadness that we 7,000 of last year. learnt of the death of Wheatley Blench on 31st May aged 93. Some of our members stewarded There will be those who have an in at other sites but we concentrated depth knowledge of his career in on The Main Guard this year with, academia which saw him leave the as well as the highly successful old Berwick Grammar as a star Exhibition on The Outlaw King, we pupil to attend St John's College, had a children's activity centre in Cambridge then holding teaching The Soldiers Room where our posts in English Literature at Children Elizabethan costumes Edinburgh and Aberdeen had been returned with quizzes Universities and, finally, at the and colouring in sheets. These University of Durham. costumes had featured on the front cover of the HODs Programme. I should, however like to This was all very much enjoyed concentrate on him being an old with an excellent turnout. family friend and his role in The Civic Society. Away back in the Zoreen Hill 1950's and 60's, my parents and myself had very enjoyable evenings with Wheatley, his mother Frances Blench and his aunt Elizabeth Fisacerley. The conversation flowed and was extremely stimulating. Wheatley could be very witty and apart from obviously his great knowledge of

literature, he was keenly interested in politics, the theatre and showbusiness. A very generous host, we exchanged much hospitality over the years at 4 dinners, parties and family was interred in Berwick Cemetery. occasions. To quote one of Wheatley's favourite sayings; "He had gone to He was a longstanding member of his account". Zoreen Hill The Civic Society and served on The Executive for some years, becoming Vice-Chairman from 2001 - 2003.

In 2003, he gave a talk entitled; "Two Otter Men" on the subject of authors, his friend Henry Williamson and Gavin Maxwell.

On another occasion he spoke on the well-known 1950's writer and broadcaster, Alan Melville who came from Berwick and was related to the Herriot family. At one time he wrote our reports for the Berwick Advertiser. J W Blench

One of Wheatley's great passions by was the Church and nearly all his life he was a dedicated High Brita Granstrom Anglican, many times in the past taking part in the service owned by Peter Maule ceremonial.

However, there was always the impression that his leaning was towards the Catholic Church and two months before he died he converted while still retaining his affection for The Church of .

His funeral took place on 17th June in St Cuthberts RC Church in the High Latin Mass Rite and he 5

THE MAIN GUARD – volunteers needed next year!

Against the southern rampart is the Main Guard, the only remaining one of four guardhouses that stood inside the gates of the town. The Main Guard building as we know it today dates from 1743. It was originally situated in front of the town hall and subsequently moved further up Marygate to the top of East Street. As a result of traffic congestion in 1815 it was moved from Marygate to its present site.

Although the Main Guard is now owned by English Heritage, Berwick’s Civic Society holds it under license as their headquarters and maintains it as a museum during the summer months. The museum is in two sections: one room is devoted to the history of the town and the other houses a special exhibition that changes every year or two depending on the efforts of members. The museum is staffed by volunteers and is open daily (except Wednesdays) 1pm–5pm, from 1st June to 30th September with the opening period split into two 2-hour shifts.

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There is however a big problem that is growing with the years and that relates to a shortage of volunteers from the membership to man the Main Guard during the summer season. It relies on a small group of individuals at the moment, willing to give up a couple of hours every so often but this year, for example, Zoreen Hill and Bob Steward in particular were occasionally on duty as much as five times in a week, due to a lack of volunteers.

This clearly is not fair nor sustainable and it may be that the community will eventually lose this popular visitor attraction unless more volunteers come forward to give help on occasion. It is not an onerous task and only involves being at the Main Guard for a couple of hours now and again to chat to visitors if required, and collect payment for the various guide leaflets and other items on sale.

I appeal to members to come forward and put their name on a volunteers’ list that will be used during the 2020 season by the co-ordinators,

The way it works is that they phone up volunteers a week or more ahead to ask when available so that a rota can be created for the weeks ahead. If there are a good number of volunteers, then any individual may only be called upon once a month thus spreading the load fairly among members.

Please add your name to the list by contacting Zoreen on 01289 306 196

John Webster (vice- chairman)

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CIVIC SOCIETY NEWS

MEMBERSHIP say you accept how your data is used, RENEWAL USING NEW ONLINE SYSTEM Finally, by clicking the ‘Payments’ box you can choose how you are going to pay (BACS, cheque). This The way this will work using the renews your membership for the new membership system is as year and once your payment is follows. received by the Treasurer your Members using email will receive a payment will be recorded by him reminder at the beginning of on the system. December saying that By the way, if you have a Standing subscriptions are due by the end of Order set up then you should not December. receive an email reminder as your Subscriptions are £8 for individual membership will renew once the and £12 for joint (e.g. husband and payment is received. wife). John Webster This email will include a link and by clicking on this you will be taken into your own membership record.

Please check this carefully and if need be click the ‘Edit’ button to change out of date information like phone number or address etc.

Remember to ‘Save’ your changes by clicking on the highlighted button when finished.

You will be asked to read the GDPR section then to tick a box to

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WHAT TO DO IF YOU so that your payment can be identified easily: there are ten DON’T USE EMAIL surnames shared by at least two different members of the Society. Our preference is for you to use the online system described above 3. By sending a cheque or cash because it allows you to check to Michael Gallico, 72 your details and update if need be. Ravensdowne, Berwick TD15 It also simplifies the work of the 1DQ. No need to wait until Treasurer, myself! by renewing 2020! your membership record so that I 4. (least favourite) by paying in only need to input your payment cash or cheque at either of the first meetings of 2020, on 8th when it arrives. There are however January or 12th February. a few members who do not use email or computers so here are If you joined the Society for the first instructions as to how your time in autumn of 2019 your membership can be renewed in the membership runs until December traditional way. 2020, no renewal needed

There are four ways to renew your Finally, if you decide not to renew membership: the online methods your membership please let me make life simplest: know.

1. By setting up a standing order Michael Gallico to the Society’s bank account, to be paid on 15 January. The account is at Bank of , sort code 12-12-57, account no. 00156361, account name Berwick on Tweed Civic Society. 2. By making an online payment to the same account on 1 January. You can authorise this now and set 15 January for the actual payment.

If you choose either of the above, please give your surname and initials as the payment reference 9

RECENT TALKS

THE BORDERLANDS over one million people but is within a two-hour drive for 14 GROWTH DEAL million people.

Janice Rose, Head of Economy This is an area, she explained, and Regeneration at which has many shared challenges Northumberland County Council, and opportunities. The challenges gave a talk to the Berwick-upon- include a loss of working age Tweed Civic Society on population, low wages, digital Wednesday 24th April about The connectivity problems, a historic Borderland Inclusive Growth deal lack of investment and shortage of and the Berwick Theatre and employment sites and issues with Conference Centre bid which is transport links. She highlighted one of the five main projects. how transport links are relatively good travelling north to south but Janice Rose gave a background to how the network is not nearly as the Borderlands Partnership which well set up for travelling west to is a growth proposition backed by east in the country and certainly both the Scottish and UK within the Borderlands area. Governments and, as referenced in the 2018 budget, is funded to In terms of the opportunities, the tune of £345 million. Janice Rose spoke of the growing base of small and medium sized She spoke of the area which is companies, the range of covered within the partnership international companies, the which is the five local authority underused strategic sites of areas which straddle the border - national scale, our position and Scottish Borders, Dumfries and access to markets and natural Galloway, Northumberland, assets. Carlisle and Cumbria. This is a geography area, which is in the She described this ongoing centre of the UK, around the size process as a "Unique Growth of Wales with 10% of the UK land Deal" which aims to apply a mass but with a population of just "Border blind" approach and one 10 which complements the Edinburgh the partnership) and land and and South East Scotland City Deal marine productivity. and the North of Tyne Devolution Deal. She emphasised that the Janice Rose, told the audience that focus was on rural economic each of the five local authorities growth and development and have put forward one major bid for about redressing the lack of a project within their area. investment over the past 30 years. Northumberland County Council, backed by the Berwick When asked during questions at Regeneration Commission, have the end of her talk, Janice Rose, chosen a project for Berwick - a did not feel that the Growth Deal new Berwick Theatre and Process itself was at risk from the Conference Centre. The projects current political turmoil but said from the other local authority areas that Brexit has, undoubtedly, taken include a Mountain Bike Innovation up a lot of time for civil servants Centre, the Carlisle Station and slowed the process down. Gateway and Chapelcross Energy Park. She explained that the capital will only be released following She said that the key aspects of completion of full business cases these projects are that they are and then outlined what the capable of being transformational propositions were. The and the benefits will extend beyond programmes eligible for funding just the specific place they are are headed - Digital Borderlands, sites. Borderlands Energy Investment Company, Business Productivity The Maltings, she said, is currently and Innovation, Destination successful and a new centre for Borderlands and Quality of Place. theatre, film, a conference centre and for extended community use The Borderlands partnership will ticks all these boxes. She spoke of also have a role in lobbying how Berwick could potentially be government for things which the seen as being as an extension or area need such as around mini version of the Edinburgh transport (the transport needs such Festival and there would be other as full dualing of the A1 would take knock on benefits of this. For up the entire £365 million so this is example, it would help the treated a "policy ask" as opposed campaign for better transport links to being able to be funded through and later trains. 11

She explained that the detailed SENSE OF PLACE – business case is still being worked on for this project and no decision ARTISTS AND THEIR has yet been made whether the REPONSES TO new Maltings would be a brand new building on a new location or BERWICK whether the major capital would be James Lowther, Head of Visual Art spent on extending the existing site at Berwick Visual Arts, gave a with a mixture of substantial fascinating talk to the Berwick- refurbishment and new build. She upon-Tweed Civic Society on the added that she was "95% sure" evening of Wednesday, 8th May that this project would get over the entitled; "Sense of Place - Artists line and it will go quiet for a little and their Responses to Berwick". while all the details are being drawn up and ahead of the next Government Borderlands In an illustrated presentation, announcements, likely to be in James Lowther displayed works of June. art by artists in Berwick including; Mike Nelson, Louise Cattrell, Paul Janice Rose was thanked by new Housley, Virginia Bodman, Fiona Civic Society Chairman, Ian Dods Crisp, Shona Illingorth, Uta for her informative talk and Kogelsberger, Zoe Walker, Marcus enthusiasm she brings to the table Coates, Tacita Dean, Juan Munoz, and her work towards securing Dan Graham, Lucia Noguiera, investment for Berwick which we Elisabeth Ballet and Siobhan have been starved of for decades. Davies. Zoreen Hill He quoted the mission statement of The Maltings (Berwick) Trust which is to; "..guarantee that residents of all ages and visitors to this beautiful and remote corner of England have easy access to creative events and experiences

which inspire, challenge and entertain - and which connect them directly with contemporary culture and debate" which match the 12 accessibility goals of the Arts Professor Emeritus, David Hill, Council England. who was Harewood Professor of Fine Arts at Leeds University and James Lowther gave an overview has researched and written about of the spaces where art in Berwick Turner since the early 1970s, will is exhibited which includes, retrace Turner's footsteps in predominantly, the Gymnasium Northumberland and discover the Gallery and the Granary Gallary. sites and experiences that He also spoke of the, highly transformed a draftsman of successful, "artist in residence" architecture into a poet of the programme where individuals, sublime. often from abroad, spend a year in Berwick and capture their "sense James Lowther also talked of the of place" which he described as; excellent work Berwick Visual Arts "the multi-faceted way in which we are doing with the local schools to know notable or memorable places engage young people with the through sensing, experiencing, and arts. There is also a programme of remembering a geographical exhibitions, tours and art location and its features. workshops and lectures in partnership with the Berwick It is, therefore, a combination of Educational Association such as our interaction with a physical the upcoming lectures with Prof environment and the meanings Maria Chester at the Maltings on; that we (as individuals and a "Understanding Turner" which will society) bestow upon it, at the time be held on the 21st June and 19th or subsequently." July.

He discussed the exciting James Lowther took a range of programme of upcoming events questions about art in Berwick and and exhibitions which include the was warmly thanked for this Turner Northern Exposure at the excellent and informative talk. Granary Gallery which will run between 25th May - 13th October Zoreen Hill and will be open Tues - Sun between 11am - 4pm. There will also be an event on Saturday, 25th May at 10.30am in The Maltings, "In Turner's Footsteps" to celebrate the launch. 13

QUESTION TIME John Bell told the meeting of the Berwick Youth Project’s plans for VISIONS FOR the old Berwick Community Centre BERWICK which has hit some feasibility obstacles and that the BYP was The Berwick-upon-Tweed Civic now considering the Old Brewery Society hosted a “Visions for in Tweedmouth as an alternative Berwick” Question Time session at location. their meeting on the 12th June. He also spoke of the The panellists were Donna disappointment of Berwick Goddard, Chair of Governors of Rangers relegation from the Berwick Academy, John Bell, Scottish League and plans for the Manager of the Berwick Youth future with the best chance of Project and Chairman of Berwick bouncing back being next season Rangers and Andy Richardson, but he pointed out the high Chairman of the Berwick Harbour standard in non-league football Commission. and leagues like the Highlands division. Donna Goddard gave a overview of the work being done to improve Andy Richardson spoke of the Berwick Academy and her Scottish Government and Tweed personal commitment, as a parent Commission plans to reduce the and resident, to see major season for net fishing which will improvements. She gave an have a significant impact on the honest assessment of the financial Berwick netting station, Gardo. He and other challenges but spoke of pointed out the inconsistency the reasons for optimism. She between the Tweed Commission highlighted the recent good news recommending this measure in the with the announcement that interests of salmon conservation Northumberland County Council with the fact they are now have committed a minimum of £15 challenging the other part of the million to a new school building. proposal which is to reduce the She also mentioned the support season for fishing by the spin and funding from the local County method. Councillors for the refurbishment of Andy Richardson also gave a their 2G playing pitch. candid account of the challenges facing the Harbour Commission 14 including delays and extra costs imposed by other bodies such as the Marine Management Organisation (MMO) following the award of the Coastal Community Fund Grant of £2m. He spoke also of the current opportunities especially those presented by attracting cruise ships to Berwick.

There were a range of interesting questions and a lively discussion after the presentations.

Zoreen Hill

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OTHER ITEMS

BERWICK BARRACKS – Lottery Heritage Fund. Together with significant funding from EHT WHAT’S HAPPENING? itself and a modest contribution from other partners, this would allow the Trust to take the lead in developing the next stage of the project to transform the Barracks, enabling EHT and its partners – Northumberland County Council, Museums Northumberland, the Trustees of the Kings Own Scottish Borderers’ Museum, the Maltings (Berwick) Trust and Berwick Museum and Archives Action With so many other projects Group – better to tell the dramatic affecting Berwick currently on the story of Berwick and the Eastern boil – such as the town branding Borders, and in the process exercise, the new sports centre creating an anchor tourist and the plans for the new hospital, attraction to help drive Berwick’s to name but a few – it’s difficult to economic regeneration. keep up. Not surprisingly, members of the Civic Society have So what exactly is a Resilient been asking me – ‘So what’s Heritage grant? And why do we happening about the Barracks?’ I need yet another set of consultants welcome this chance to bring examining the Barracks? everyone up to date. To answer these questions, we Those with good memories will need to step back for a moment. recall that in February of this year, Everyone who knows the Barracks English Heritage Trust – EHT, the will acknowledge that the site is charity which owns and manages large. It’s also complex, both the Barracks – announced that it physically and in terms of the had received a Resilient Heritage number of partners providing grant of £69,500 from the National attractions there. Earlier work on 16 the project has confirmed that it will • The Collections held by all the need very substantial capital partners already on the site investment to re-develop it. (and by Berwick Record Office, Particularly given current economic as a prospective partner). uncertainties, finding that money is • The Conservation issues to be going to be a major challenge. A addressed, not only in relation phased re-development of the site to the Barracks but to EHT’s is likely to be necessary, substantial other potentially involving a mix of public responsibilities in Berwick. and private partners. And even • Options for the long-term when that re-development is Development and Governance complete, there will be yet more of the site. challenges. These three pieces of work involve How can the refurbished site pay three different groups of its way – that is, be financially consultants, each with appropriate sustainable - into the future? And expertise. They are keeping in how can it best be managed so as close touch with each other, under to deliver a positive outcome for all the oversight of a steering group the partners? In short, how can the chaired by Andrea Selley, Director Barracks become a resilient of EHT’s North Region. Everyone heritage resource into the future? involved is working to the same end – to help determine the most Potential funders have made clear imaginative and viable option to to the project team that they will be secure the long-term future of the reluctant to commit funds unless Barracks. these questions can be answered convincingly. Briefly, and taking each strand of work in turn: So in order to work out the way forward and thus strengthen the • The Collections review is business case for investment in the looking at the management site, EHT, with the help of the and storage of the collections National Lottery Heritage Fund’s held by the partners, analysing grant, has commissioned three their significance and pieces of work, looking considering how they can best respectively at: be presented to the public.

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• The Conservation review is 2020. This will then enable EHT looking at the constraints and and all the partners to decide how opportunities presented by the best to proceed and to prepare the site, including heritage and convincing business case needed health and safety issues. to secure the necessary • The Business Planning and investment in the site. Governance strand is examining such questions as: Two other brief but important points. First, the steering group and all of the consultants are trying to ensure that they consult all 1. How can the partners exploit relevant stakeholders – including, the enormous significance of of course, the Civic Society – as the the site, the collections and work proceeds. But if you have stories they tell, reflecting the views or practical suggestions to role they play within the make, please make them known to changing destination of me or to Sophie Howard (the Berwick? manager of the Resilient Heritage 2. How can the partners develop project, who is based at the a sustainable financial model Barracks – which is both ambitious and sophie.howard@english- realistic? heritage.org.uk. 3. How can the partners secure the substantial levels of capital Secondly, this is not all that is required to transform the site currently happening or planned to and allow it to realise its happen in and around the potential in the ever more Barracks, to exploit the heritage of difficult funding climate that Berwick for the benefit of the town. they are all facing? EHT is working with the Civic 4. What is the most effective and Society to produce a self-guided sustainable operational and tour of the Ramparts and their governance model for running surrounding features. The partners the future Barracks? are looking at ways of bringing more activity onto the site, to build on the success of the Food Festival and the recent Tour of The project steering group is Britain event. And later this autumn aiming to pull the results of all this we will be turning our minds to how work together by the end of March best we can mark the three 18 hundredth anniversary of the The saw a vast expanse of mud opening of the Barracks in 1721. Dried by the solar beam I look forward to reporting where we have got to when I speak at the Through which there ran, in Society’s meeting in March next devious course year. A tiny, thread-like stream Philip Mawer Rawlinson was livid at being held up to ridicule with bottles being ‘paraded through the town’ and the WATER AND Town Council, often testy over criticism – it had a go at the SQUABBLES IN 19c Berwick Advertiser for calling its BERWICK members ‘know-nothings’ – tried against all evidence, to maintain all Berwick was often short of water in was well. the Nineteenth Century. Nor was what available often very The upshot was regular cuts to the desirable. supply, sometimes for six hours but at others the Bellman would In 1846 the Mayor deemed it to be give notice of no water tomorrow. ‘in such a filthy state as to be Blocked pipes were a part of the literally unfit for human use’. This problem. A frog, a rat, and an prompted the Town Council, which eight-inch trout were found in them doubled as the Board of Health, to in 1873. invest in a reservoir. What with the coal gas also getting A site was chosen, the New Farm, into the water it was no surprise and an engineer of some repute, that the Chemistry lecturer, Dr Rawlinson, engaged to see to it. It Stevenson, found the waters did not though fulfil expectations. It ‘unwholesome and positively unfit leaked prodigiously, at a rate for domestic use’. The state of the measured a little later at two water was thought to be the cause gallons a minute. of frequent intestinal troubles. Many went to Tweedmouth to get It prompted a satirical ballad, one cleaner water. Indeed, tenders verse of which ran: were put out for this purpose.

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In 1903 the Town Council began NORTHUMBERLAND’S consideration of a Joint Water Scheme. This quickly proved EARLY HISTORY highly contentious, in part owning SAXON AND VIKING to a lamentable measure in 1875. TIMES That had been for Berwick’s three wards, North, Middle, and South, No one knows for certain precisely to be rated separately, in part to when Christianity first established save Berwick the cost of repairs to places of worship here. It is probable that Christians came with Spittal’s roads, heavily used by Roman merchant ships. St factory traffic. This could not but Columba brought Celtic sow division! Christianity to the Isle of Iona off the Scottish mainland from Ireland So it was that the North Ward in 563AD and St Augustine Roman maintained it did not need to Christianity to Kent in 597. The participate in the scheme, claiming decision which should hold sway its water was adequate. It became over Northumberland was made by bitter with Town Council behaving Oswald after winning the Battle of Heavenfield in 634, declaring ‘like a lot of quarrelling schoolboys’ himself to be a Celtic Christian and some being asked to leave a King. Oswald had an Abbey built Public Meeting. Finance in the end at Whitby in 658 and, ironically, it compelled reconciliation as a local was there that Abbess Hilda government loan would only be presided over an historic council in given with agreed and detailed 664 which decided that Roman Christianity was to be the form plans. In January 1913, Cllr. Cowe recognised throughout England. cut the first sod of a new borehole The Celtic Saints were banished to at the Tower Works, a mere ten the far north. years after the scheme had first been presented to the Town The Saxon Heptarchy was not a Council. success, forever at war within itself. When the Vikings laid siege Michael Cullen to in 793 they met with little resistance and marching south they laid waste the countryside. A second wave in the form of The Viking Great Army of 866 further reduced what was left of Deira, the land between the Humber and the Tees. The Vikings built their own settlements, 20 leaving us place names today with and Gospatric was to be grateful with their own ‘by’ (farmstead) for his Scottish connections. signature on the end. Saxon churches and monasteries were William was crowned King by burnt, lands and intellects left Aldred Archbishop of York. His uncultivated. armies did not necessarily fight for the love of William, they were hired The Vikings eventually moved mercenaries and wanted payment. south, leaving the Saxon remnant William levied severe taxes, free to rebuild their small especially in the north which led to communities. Fortunately for those considerable unrest. There then living in southern Britain, King followed an uprising against him Alfred the Great defeated the when news spread that Swein the Danes in a series of battles which Dane was returning. Swein landed drove them north once more much by the Humber but was defeated. to the despair of the Saxons. Now distrustful of the north, William sent Robert de Comines The last and most powerful Viking and seven hundred men to secure in the north was Siward, declared Durham and take over as of King of . He terrorised Northumberland. In January of the north but had one redeeming 1069 Robert crossed the Tees into feature, like the Romans before Durham. killing anyone he found. him he kept the Scots and the At Durham a large army was rallied Picts out of his territory. Siward which destroyed Robert’s band. died in bed in 1055 shortly before Only Robert and an aide survived the and was the slaughter, they took refuge in a succeeded by Earl Tostig, who house but were discovered, the was killed at Stamford Bridge near house was burnt and as they tried York shortly before the Battle of to make their escape both were Hastings. King Harold made beheaded. , brother of Edwin, Earl of Mercia, the third Earl of Gaining in confidence, the rebels Northumbria. mustered support all the way back to York. They trapped the After Harold’s defeat by William Governor of York Castle outside Duke of Normandy, Morcar the city walls and killed him. Word and Edwin had to give up their land was smuggled out of York to but were allowed to retain their William that the only Norman titles. William gave Gospatric Garrison north of the Humber was charge of both the land and armies now under siege. William of Northumbria. He was the son of realised that Edwin and Morcar Maldred, brother of Duncan, the had turned against him, and were father of King Malcolm of Scotland plotting with Gospatric. He made a terrible oath to avenge his dead 21 kinsmen in York and Durham. the Dundas family. The present William was given to making oaths Marquess of Zetland is the 28th in and often began them with the direct lineal descent from words “By God’s splendour ...... ” Gospatric, the Earl of Northumbria this time he added “I will who stood against William the harry the north!” Conqueror. His father once told me that his son David Dundas, Thus began an infamous chapter now Earl, earned more money for in our history known as ‘The writing the song for the blue jeans Harrying (or Harrowing) of The advert ‘I pull my blue jeans on’ North’ of 1069AD. "For 60 miles than his father ever did from his between York and Durham every land holding. village was deserted and scarce a house left standing, the whole The very last stand of the Britons district being reduced by fire and against William was at Coatham sword to a horrible desert, smoking Marshes on the Tees, where arrow in blood and ashes. The land lay heads are still found to this day. It uncultivated for nine years, and a is said that, had there been a dreadful famine ensued, which remnant of Britons able to ambush reduced the wretched inhabitants the vulnerable William at Bilsdale to eat the flesh of dogs, cats, near Helmsley following the horses and even human Coatham battle, history would have carcasses, multitudes lay on the taken a different turn. Making his ground unburied, and the few that way home through the Dale, escaped the sword perished in the William was caught in a spell of fields overcome with want and freak weather, an unseasonable misery.” (The Reverend John snow storm and separated from his Graves) army, left with only six men to guard him. Even today farmers in Gospatric fled to Scotland to seek Bilsdale have a saying for refuge with his kinsmen. He someone on a cold day “swearing survived for a time in Scotland, like Billy Norman” apparently producing a son and heir named passed down from father to son. after him. It was this Gospatric After Coatham, the desolation of who witnessed the Charters Northumberland, from Bernica to granted to the Abbey of Scone in Deira was complete. In 1070 King 1115 and Holyrood at Edinburgh in Malcolm of Scotland was able to 1128. His son, Huchtred in his turn wander south without challenge had a son who styled himself and destroyed any remaining Helias de Dundas, having obtained villages, taking advantage to make a charter from Waldevus, son of the invasion he had feared to Gospatric his uncle. This mount in 1058. It may have been document, dated 1145 AD is this period which led to the naming thought to be held to this day by 22 of Northumberland as ‘any man’s More interesting are the climate land. change deniers, including the current US President, who seem Alan Hughes. oblivious to the effects that are now alarmingly obvious to anyone with a rational outlook on life. SHOULD WE WORRY These deniers must surely offer an ABOUT GLOBAL interesting case study for psycho- WARMING? analysts as to why their minds work in this way although it has to It was back in 2006 that Al Gore be said that they are often the first raised the issue of global same people who believe that warming in his video presentation aliens built the pyramids despite “An Inconvenient Truth”. It caused the existence of architects’ plans a great deal of debate at the time from the time, along with items mainly because the effects that he such as set squares, levels, and described were only just becoming other tools that have emerged evident to scientists. during excavations.

It was met with a hostile response So was the much-decried Al Gore from the fossil fuel industries, right or wrong in his predictions of despite the fact that we now know what would happen if atmospheric that they were already aware of carbon dioxide concentrations some of the adverse effects on the carried on increasing and given planet but put profit before people that critics said his predictions in much the same way as the were alarmist and that much of his tobacco industry did some data was invalid. decades earlier as regards the health dangers from smoking. A 2017 study looked at Al Gore’s 2006 work and came to the Sadly, this is still going on with gas conclusions that “The basic truth, from fracking being sold as a and its inconvenience, remains, In ‘clean’ fuel, which of course is fact, it is clearer than ever that nonsense because a tonne of greenhouse gases are a major carbon dioxide from burning gas cause of the observed climate from fracking is just as damaging warming." and that “the dire to the planet as a tonne from observations made in the original burning coal. "An Inconvenient Truth" remain mostly on the mark” 23

In other words, Al Gore got it more worry about global warming? The or less spot-on when he answer is a definite YES because highlighted that atmospheric if we do nothing then the results carbon dioxide concentrations will be dire due to perfect storm of were increasing due to fossil fuel outcomes such as the flooding of consumption and when he tried to coastal communities from rising identify the impact the subsequent sea levels; dramatic reductions in warming would have on the planet. crop yields, an effect already being It is no longer controversial or seen in global markets; huge costs alarmist to describe this warming repairing infrastructure damaged as an existential threat to life on by extreme weather events. earth if nothing is done. John Webster A decade or so ago we relied on the measurements of scientists using data from satellite or from The Berwick field stations to provide the first evidence of the changes that were Civic Society happening but I think most of us is a Registered Charity (No. can now see with our own eyes 508953) that the climate both here and abroad is changing at a rapid and Website: terrifying pace. www.berwickcivicsociety.org.uk

Office Bearers 2019-2020 Storms of increasing frequency and severity throughout the world; Chairman...... Ian Dods intense rainfall that used to be a Vice-Chairman…………. John Webster Hon. Treasurer ……….. Michael Gallico rare event now becoming Hon. Secretary……….. Anne Humphrey commonplace even in the UK; Newsletter/Website.. John Webster long-lasting droughts that are leading to desertification and Please feel free to email any Officer of driving the mass migration of the Society using: millions; melting ice caps and diminishing glaciers. [email protected]

Membership application can be made So, going back to the question in from the website using the ‘Join Us’ the title of the article – should we link

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