Macquarie Harbour

Tasmanian West Coast Foray Part 1 Macquarie Harbour 100nm. Add another 22 when your Gale force winds, driving rain, cold temperatures, a small starting point is at Three Hummock Island. So one or even two stops can sprinkling of sunny days, and all this in late summer… Any be made along the way. takers for a foray down the West Coast of Tasmania? This is We studied two anchorage guides where CHRISTINE DANGER is sailing us over two issues. which are our bibles: Cruising Tasmania by J Brettingham-Moore, and Tasmanian Anchorage Guide published by the Royal Yacht Club of oming down the west coast, Our expedition started from So over two articles, we will share Tasmania. We talked to Tasmanian even during the so-called Melbourne in late February. We with you the sites we visited and friends who know the area well and C best season, is not for the sailed west to Apollo Bay, then south impressions we formed. The first picked the brains of cray fishermen to faint hearted. It is committal, it is to King Island and the Hunter Group, focuses on Macquarie Harbour, the find out about anchorages they use The coast is quite scenic: a mix of TOP: Strahan with its old buildings challenging, but when it all goes and there we waited for the right second on Port Davey. along the coast. There is a wealth of scrub, sand dunes, rocky outcrops … a welcome sight after many smoothly on a well-equipped boat, conditions to start our descent. It did knowledge out there and people are hours at sea. that create spectacular waves even you are in for a treat, a bit soggy, but not take long at all to get the desired MACQUARIE HARBOUR generous with information. All you ABOVE: Passing Cape Grim. oh the scenery! WILDERNESS have to do is ask. in calm conditions, and impressive north east forecast. granite tors standing erect like Easter We made it our goal to sail along When you sail down the west e chose to venture So we found out about a couple Island statues, particularly around the west coast of Tasmania during of spots to stop at on the way to coast, especially the first time, it is down in March-April. the Pieman River. our first year of living afloat. It was Between February and Macquarie Harbour when the breeze daunting. There are not many places W the one part of the island we had April the weather is more settled, is in the east quadrant. These were We had a great run, passing Cape to hide. But as we found out, in the not explored while still working. But with significantly less winds over Ann Bay, about 15 miles down the Grim under spinnaker, then using a now that we are retired and living on right conditions we could make our 30kts, and a higher proportion of north west tip of Tasmania, and combination of main, staysail and Take It Easy, we are in an enviable way down during daylight hours, north easterlies than the normally Venables Corner, just on the north jib as the breeze switched to the position: plenty of time, no deadline, avoiding the overnighters we dislike, predominant westerlies. As we have side of Sandy Cape, about 48 miles southeast, finishing the first day no schedule. Everyone knows and actually see the coast we were already mentioned, we try to avoid from the tip. Both offer reasonable motor sailing. The second day was that the worst thing on a boat is a sailing along. And of course we overnight sails, preferring to day sail shelter, although are subject to excellent and we sailed all the way calendar. It leads you to take risks, had ample time to explore the two and put some effort into discovering some swell, as with most west coast to Hells Gates. The mountains of go when you should not and turn iconic spots along this fabled coast: shelters to rest in along the way. anchorages. We ended up stopping the western wilderness were in the what should be an enjoyable trip into Macquarie Harbour and Port Davey- The passage from the northwest tip at Sandy Cape and spent a gentle background all along, some distance an uncomfortable or scary cruise. Bathurst Harbour. of Tasmania to Macquarie Heads is night there. from the shores but looking majestic. 94 multihullworld multihullworld 95 old times. Here are a few of the anchorages we stayed at. Betsy Bay, on the western side of the Harbour, offers good shelter from west southwest in a shallow bay (2-4m) with a muddy bottom. It is often frequented by fishermen who establish a camp there. The attraction of this bay is a 12km return walk to the ocean. It is a marked trail through button grass moorland and tea trees. learn about the history, experience different anchorages around the Double Cove, also on the Harbour, and go up the Gordon western side of the Harbour, offers are several spots to anchor in, one One of the relics at Pillinger in Kelly Basin. River. a choice of two anchorages as the very well protected from all winds at name suggests and is a delightful the north east end, but we chose to We started our stay with the spot. You are surrounded by tall go to the southern end and dinghy compulsory trip to Strahan. It was timbers. We anchored in the south ashore to search from some relics of as much to see the little village, as Cove, in 3-4m over mud. The cove railway. This anchorage is fine in all to replenish our supplies and do a offers great shelter from all winds but a northerly wind. on the east side of the entrance to few chores. If you are lucky, you may except strong northerlies. the Basin. This is sheltered from find a jetty side spot to tie up to, but Kelly Basin is another inlet we strong southerly winds whereas the Sarah Island, although not an most are taken by the local cray- particularly enjoyed. There are Pilinger anchorages are best in a overnight anchorage, it is worth a fishing fleet and tour operators. So it several anchorages there and a few west through to north quadrant. is easier to anchor out in Risby Cove visit because of its convict history. ruined jetties on the northwest side and dinghy in. There are interpretive signs and and northeast side of the basin with plenty of ruins to see. You should UP THE GORDON RIVER One of the useful things we did significant ruins of the old town of anchor out, well away from the A trip up the Gordon is one of the was to obtain two mud maps of Pilinger. A railway wagon, riveted jetties, as the island is on the steam boilers, brick kilns all make must do excursions when you come the region, showing anchorages itinerary of several tour operators and points of interests for both the this a fascinating area to explore. to Macquarie Harbour. The main which ferry large number of tourists a There is also a great walk along tour boats will only go four miles TOP: Sunset at Sandy Cape. the size of Sydney Harbour; empty Harbour and the Gordon River. couple of times a day. So it is wise to the old railway track, a long but up-river, however yachts can go Grey day as we enter Kelly it out of people and townships, These have been produced by ABOVE: time your visit accordingly. easy wander amongst temperate about 20 miles. The river is broad Basin, an anchorage full of history. and instead fill it with rainforest Trevor Norton, a local, and are well rainforest and along Bird River. You at the entrance, but slowly narrows wilderness right down to the water. worth the $20 a piece investment. Birchs Inlet is a particularly lovely and can anchor at West and East Pilinger and meanders as you travel up. It is The surrounding untamed forest and Trevor runs a commercial yacht, surprisingly wide inlet at the southern in shallow water, or at St Leger Point magnificent with the twists and turns the mighty Gordon River that flows Stormbreaker, up the Gordon for end of Macquarie Harbour. There through it make for an outstanding, overnight trips, kayak pick-up and The arrival at Hells Gates was otherworldly setting, wonderful for delivery and he is a great source of daunting. The name itself conjures cruising, with numerous isolated knowledge. doom and gloom, but the convicts anchorages. The only settlement is Having got the chores out of the named Macquarie Heads that way to the village of Strahan with its fine old way, we headed out. It is worth AUSTRALIA’S BEST RANGE OF refer to the life awaiting them there, buildings dating back to the 1800s noting that once out of Strahan, BoatCraft Pacific MARINE PLY BS1088, AS2272 rather than the roughness of the and the mining and timber boom. there is no internet or mobile phone And all BoatCraft Pacific distributors for From the Rolls Royce Marine Plys entrance itself. Still you can’t help The rest is grandeur, isolation and service. You can pick up weather but be nervous and a little awestruck the jewel in the crown of Tasmania’s forecasts from TAS Radio Hobart Boat Building Fasteners to Bargain Basement Plys as you approach. We had the ideal Western wilderness. There is in some anchorages, but once up run in, with totally calm, sunny, • Silicon Bronze Engine Bolts • Silicon Bronze Coach Bolts We Will Ship Anywhere in Australia no one around, it is so big and the Gordon, there is no contact.

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