A Cheetah overlooks the endless Serengeti plains (Mark Van Beirs)

NORTHERN TANZANIA

1 – 14 APRIL 2018

LEADER: MARK VAN BEIRS

Birdquest’s Northern Tanzania tour is a glorious celebration of life on earth, as it offers participants the unique opportunity to admire at close range the most fantastic wildlife spectacle of Africa and probably of our planet. The incredible experience of standing in the middle of the astounding migration of tens of thousands of Common Wildebeests over the endless Serengeti plains is indescribable. We were so incredibly lucky to be able to observe the amazingly efficient hunt of a Lioness as she stalked, pounced, brought down and devoured a hapless Common Wildebeest in front of our vehicle in mid-afternoon. Cats were definitely a feature of our visit as we encountered multiple Lions, a terrific female Leopard with her boisterous cub walking about, several adorable, eye-ball to eye-ball Cheetahs and a splendid Caracal. The bird specialities of the area were all seen well, as next to the easily encountered endemics like Tanzania Red-billed Hornbill, Ashy Starling and Rufous-tailed Weaver we also had superb views of the rare Beesley’s Lark, the dainty Karamoja Apalis and the attractive Grey-crested Helmetshrike. The wonderful gatherings of different species of vultures at predator kills made a lasting impression and the other avian favourites of the tour included

1 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com Secretarybird, Bateleur, Grey Crowned Crane, Temminck’s Courser, Lilac-breasted Roller, the lovely Purple Roller, Pygmy Falcon and Rosy-patched Bushshrike. Bird migration was in full swing. We noted a good variety of waders, exciting numbers of Lesser Kestrels, several Amur Falcons a million wingbeats away from their eastern Palearctic breeding grounds and an obvious fall of Red-backed and Lesser Grey Shrikes. A main feature of this tour is the splendid diversity of mammals. We had very close encounters with daunting, stately African Elephants, magnificent Giraffes, colossal African Buffalos, prehistoric-looking Black Rhinos, blundering Hippos and numerous species of elegant Gazelle and Antilopes.

Southern Grosbeak Canary and Blue-naped Mousebird showed well at our first stop (tour participant Bengt Grandin)

Passing through the delightfully quiet and relaxed Kilimanjaro airport went smoothly and it didn’t take long to pack our luggage in the well-equipped 4x4 Toyota Land Cruiser that was going to be our transport for the next two weeks. Steve, our trusted driver had everything under control and soon we were driving east to a nice stretch of acacia thickets where we tasted our first picnic lunch. A cracking Somali Golden-breasted Bunting tried to interrupt our munching, as did a couple of Southern Grosbeak Canaries. We admired a perched European Honey Buzzard, several funny-looking White-bellied Go-away-birds and obtained scope views of singing Diederik and Red-chested Cuckoos. Three species of Mousebird performed for us: Speckled, White-headed and Blue-naped, so we managed to bag half of the members of this endemic African bird family in one go! Two Madagascar Bee-eaters had obviously just arrived and both Red-and- yellow and D’Arnaud’s Barbets sat up. We also found a singing Pink-breasted Lark, a well-behaved Red- fronted Warbler, a cracking Spotted Palm Thrush, a selection of sunbirds including Beautiful, Tsavo Purple- banded and Hunter’s, a cracking male of the localized Taveta Weaver and several splendidly displaying Straw-tailed Whydahs. Other goodies included Western Osprey (with a fish), Wahlberg’s Eagle, Eastern Chanting Goshawk, Namaqua Dove, Malachite Kingfisher, European Bee-eater, African Grey Hornbill, Nubian Woodpecker, Chinspot Batis, Brown-crowned Tchagra, Slate-coloured Boubou, Eurasian Golden Oriole, Red-billed Oxpecker, White-browed Scrub Robin, Pale and Spotted Flycatchers, Red-billed Quelea, Green-winged Pytilia, Cut-throat Finch, Pin-tailed and Long-tailed Paradise Whydahs, Yellow-spotted Petronia, African Pipit, Zanzibar Sombre Greenbul and Northern Brownbul. In late afternoon we continued to our hotel. On the journey Marabou Stork, Black-headed Heron, Long-crested Eagle, Yellow-billed Kite, Speckled Pigeon, Lesser Kestrel, Lesser Striped Swallow, Superb and Red-winged Starlings, Red-billed Buffalo Weaver and White-browed Sparrow-Weavers were seen. A big Easter celebration was going on at the hotel, but luckily for us this stopped in the early evening.

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The localized Taveta Golden Weaver and the attractive Rosy-patched Bushshrike gave terrific views (Mark Van Beirs)

While driving to our birding area in the very early morning, we picked up two Spotted Eagle Owls nicely perched up. Dawn found us again in acacia thicket country where we waited for the birds to wake up. A very friendly Pygmy Batis showed at very close range and a singing Grey Wren-Warbler was scoped. It took a while to get to grips with the furtive Scaly Chatterer, and eventually we obtained pretty good views. We also noted Little Bee-eater, Northern Red-billed and Von der Decken’s Hornbills, Slate-coloured Boubou, a male Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird, Swahili Sparrow and Reichenow’s Seedeater. Several Unstriped Ground Squirrels and smart Red-headed Rock Agamas were also about. In mid-morning we explored the cattailed- lined banks of a meandering stream and the nearby acacia woodland. An active colony of attractive Taveta Weavers caught our attention, as these glorious birds are extremely localized. Hamerkop, Three-banded Plover, Common Sandpiper, White-browed Coucal, Grey-headed and Pied Kingfishers, Wire-tailed Swallow, Northern and Red-faced Crombecs, Lesser Swamp Warbler, heard only Great Reed and Sedge Warblers, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Yellow-bellied Eremomela, Lesser Masked and Village Weavers and Southern Red Bishop were also observed. A small African Crocodile was swimming in the river and on the drive to the nearby reservoir we located a cracking Rosy-patched Bushshrike that was singing its heart out. We enjoyed our packed lunch on the open shore where quite a variety of waterbirds were present. A roosting flock held more than 100 African Skimmers, Grey-headed Gull and Gull-billed, Whiskered and White-winged Terns. Many of the terns were already in stunning breeding plumage. White-faced and Fulvous Whistling Ducks, Egyptian Goose, Yellow-billed Stork, Grey Heron, Little Egret, Pink-backed Pelican, Reed and White- breasted Cormorants, African Fish Eagle, Water Thick-knee, Blacksmith and Spur-winged Lapwings, Fisher’s Sparrow-Lark and Blue-headed Yellow Wagtail were also added to the list. On the longish drive to Arusha White Stork, Black-chested Snake Eagle and a Lilac-breasted Roller were noted. After checking in into our magnificent hotel, we explored the lush gardens. A fruiting tree held several White-eared Barbets and no fewer than six striking Brown-breasted Barbets together with a cracking African Olive Pigeon, some Violet-backed Starlings and lots of Dark-capped Bulbuls. An uncommon, modestly-clad Grey-olive Greenbul was identified in a patch of bushy woodland and overhead we noticed Black Saw-wing and African Palm, Alpine and White-rumped Swifts. White-backed Vulture, Red-eyed Dove, Brown-hooded Kingfisher, Silvery- cheeked Hornbill, Cardinal Woodpecker, a male African Paradise Flycatcher, White-eyed Slaty and African Dusky Flycatchers, Rüppell’s Robin-Chat, Collared and Bronzy Sunbirds, Baglafecht and Red-headed Weavers and Red-billed Firefinch added to the enjoyment. Several Blue (or Sykes’s) and Vervet Monkeys were playing in the imposing trees. After a very tasty and copious dinner we tried a bit of nightbirding, which only gave us a couple of furtive Small-eared Galagos.

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The gardens of our hotel near Arusha held Brown-breasted Barbet and Olive Pigeon (tour participant Bengt Grandin)

We gave the nightbirds another try before dawn, but a heavy shower sabotaged our efforts. We then made our way to the famous Lariboro plains, where we soon connected with a nice variety of larks. Best of all were the rare and unusual-looking Beesley’s Larks that showed particularly well as they foraged just a few metres away in the short grass vegetation. While strolling about we also found Red-capped, Athi Short-toed and Foxy Larks and Fisher’s Sparrow-Larks. Good numbers of smart Lesser Kestrels festooned the few acacia bushes and an elegant male Montagu’s Harrier flew past. Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse were particularly common and we also noted Crowned Lapwing, Common Swift, Zitting Cisticola, lots of Capped Wheatears and Plain-backed Pipit on our enjoyable walk over the steppe. A bout of birding in taller acacia scrub gave us Red-backed and Isabelline Shrikes, Long-tailed and Taita Fiscals, Yellow-bellied Eremomela at its well- hidden nest, a party of vociferous Banded Parisomas, Beautiful Sunbird, Kenya Sparrow and White-bellied Canary. We also observed our first typical savanna mammals like Plains Zebra, Common Wildebeest (of the eastern population albojubatus) and Thomson’s Gazelle (of the eastern nominate race). The snow-covered summit of Mount Kilimanjaro peeped briefly above the clouds. In late morning we drove southwest towards Tarangire National Park, picking up Augur Buzzard and a very smart pale Tawny Eagle on the way. At our lunch stop in a patch of acacia bushes we added Abyssinian Scimitarbill, Red-fronted Tinkerbird, Brubru, Grey-backed Camaroptera, Abyssinian White-eye, Scarlet-chested Sunbird and Golden-breasted Bunting to the tally. Our first exploration of the magnificent baobab and acacia studded plains of scenic Tarangire produced an excellent selection of marvels. At our lodge we could admire a cute African Scops Owl on its day roost. A fine African Hawk-Eagle was discovered perched high up in an imposing baobab and a party of lovely Double-banded Coursers showed very well. We observed two subtly-plumaged Tanzanian endemics, Ashy Starling and Rufous-tailed Weaver in detail and were also distracted by Red-necked Spurfowl, White- backed Vulture, Wahlberg’s Eagle, Gabar Goshawk, White-bellied Bustard, Pearl-spotted Owlet, Blue- cheeked Bee-eater, Lanner Falcon, Yellow-collared Lovebird, Northern White-crowned Shrike, Fork-tailed Drongo, Arrow-marked Babbler, Swahili and Chestnut Sparrows and White-headed Buffalo Weaver. Several herds of very impressive African Elephants crossed our track. A family of adorable Common Dwarf Mongooses played on the lodge’s lawn and both Waterbuck (race defassa) and charming Grant’s Gazelles showed well.

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The rare Beesley’s Lark performed very well on the Lariboro Plains (tour participant Carl-Axel Bauer); The Double-banded Courser is always a favourite (Mark Van Beirs)

On our full day in the Tarangire National Park we did several game drives through the very scenic open park- like woodlands, which consist mainly of acacias, statuesque baobabs and gnarled sausage trees (Kigelia), while the grassy river bottoms hold very nice stands of Borassus palms. A pair of very attractive Three- banded Coursers allowed close up views, a male Black-faced Sandgrouse landed in front of our vehicle and three imposing Southern Ground Hornbills were singing and interacting in a huge baobab. Swift Bateleurs were regularly patrolling overhead as were White-backed, Rüppell’s and Lappet-faced Vultures. We had a lovely time admiring an active colony of ever so smart Golden-backed Weavers in a reedbed. Several good- sized herds of African Elephants were encountered and a few times we got surrounded and almost closed in by playful youngsters, boisterous immatures and watchful dams. A truly unique experience! In late afternoon we found three youngish Lions resting on a termite mound. On our very enjoyable drives we also identified Knob-billed Duck, Helmeted Guineafowl, Crested Francolin, Yellow-necked Spurfowl, Saddle-billed Stork, Brown Snake Eagle, Grey-crowned Crane (a distant pair), Wood Sandpiper, Mourning Collared Dove, Bare- faced Go-away-bird, Klaas’s Cuckoo, Woodland Kingfisher, African Hoopoe, Green Wood Hoopoe, Greater Honeyguide, Eastern Grey Woodpecker, Meyer’s Parrot, Magpie Shrike, Winding Cisticola, the tiny Buff- bellied Warbler, Northern Pied Babbler, Yellow-billed Oxpecker (on a Warthog), African Grey Flycatcher, Speckle-fronted Weaver and Village Indigobird. Mammals were also very noticeable as Southern Tree and Yellow-spotted Hyraxes, Olive Baboon, Ochre Bush Squirrel, Banded Mongoose (a large group), Common Warthog and alluring Giraffes appeared before our eager lenses.

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The male Black-faced Sandgrouse is delicately patterned (Mark Van Beirs)

During the night we could easily hear the impressive roaring of Lions not too far away… a truly atmospheric sound… On our early morning walk in the lodge grounds we added Hooded Vulture, a pair of distant Grey- crowned Cranes, a brief African Pygmy Kingfisher and Common Waxbill to the tally. A pair of friendly Eastern Grey Woodpeckers was attending their nest and Ochre Bush Squirrel and Bohor Reedbuck showed quite well. And then it was time to say farewell to fabulous Tarangire National Park. On the drive out we obtained good looks at two Steppe Eagles, a pair of White-bellied Bustards and a Grey Kestrel. Black- winged Kite and an immature Martial Eagle enlivened the journey to the renowned Manyara National Park, where hundreds of smart Yellow-billed Storks were breeding in the tall trees surrounding the entrance. We drove through the well-known lush groundwater forest and explored the rich, muddy shores of large Lake Manyara. Several brilliant Black Herons were performing their legendary umbrella feeding and a pair of glorious Grey-crowned Cranes were foraging at minimal distance. Bengt picked up a gorgeous male and a female Amur Falcon overhead and we also noted Glossy Ibis, African Spoonbill, Squacco Heron, a cracking Goliath Heron, Black Crake, Long-toed and African Wattled Lapwings, Kittlitz’s Plover, African Jacana and elegant Marsh and Wood Sandpipers. Hundreds of Olive Baboons were feeding on the grassy plains together with good numbers of Common Wildebeest (of the eastern variety) and dozens of lumbering African Buffalos. The Hippo Pools produced a Spur-winged Goose, Purple Heron, lovely Collared Pratincoles, Fan- tailed Widowbird and a Thick-billed Weaver. A Little Rush Warbler was heard and several Hippos were splashing about. Further exploration of the park gave us Common Ostrich, an immature Palmnut Vulture, Striped Kingfisher, a very close male Silvery-cheeked Hornbill, Red-faced Crombec, Vitelline Masked

6 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com Weaver, a nice male Cardinal Quelea, Black Bishop and White-winged Widowbird. Several young male Elephants were sparring with much gusto at a muddy wallow, which made for very entertaining viewing! In late afternoon we made our way to the delightful Ngorongoro Farm House, where we relished gracious hospitality and an excellent dinner.

Sparring young bull Elephants on the shore of Lake Manyara (Mark Van Beirs)

A leisurely pre-breakfast walk through the montane shrub at the edge of the lodge grounds gave us several nice species. We scoped a well-behaved Black-crowned Tchagra and admired a well-groomed Lesser Honeyguide. Several glowing male Malachite Sunbirds were attracted to the orange flowers of the Australian Silk Oaks. A beautiful male Black Bishop was displaying while patrolling his territory and a family party of Hunter’s Cisticolas were loudly singing together. We also found Dusky Turtle Dove, European Roller, Eurasian Hobby, Tropical Boubou, White-browed Robin-Chat, Baglafecht and Holub’s Golden Weavers, Purple Grenadier and Black-faced Waxbill. After a scrumptious breakfast we drove towards the gate of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. A productive stop just before the gate gave us Scarce Swift, Fisher’s Lovebird, Willow Warbler, a well-performing Grey-capped Warbler, Spectacled Weaver, Bronze Mannikin and Southern Citril. We then drove up through beautiful montane forest to the jaw-dropping viewpoint of the well-known 19 km wide crater. Deep in the bowl we could discern good numbers of mammals. We followed the well-forested crater rim for most of the afternoon towards the little visited eastern side. A great selection of species was seen on our many short stops along the track. We regularly encountered smart Augur Buzzards of both pale and dark morphs, and two sightings of the uncommon, unpretentiously-plumaged Mountain Buzzard were also much appreciated. A secluded valley full of lichen and moss-covered trees held a dozen or so colourful Schalow’s Turacos, while the attractive, large umbrella-shaped acacias gave us a humble Brown Parisoma. African Harrier-Hawk, Black Sparrowhawk, Common Buzzard (vulpinus), Tambourine Dove, Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater, Moustached Tinkerbird, Mountain Greenbul, Rock Martin, Mosque and Red-rumped Swallows, Montane White-eye, Waller’s Starling, Cape Robin-Chat, African Stonechat, Golden-winged and Eastern Double-collared Sunbirds and Streaky Seedeater were other additions to the ever-growing list. We also enjoyed two sightings of Spotted Hyaena. In late afternoon we arrived at our luxurious lodgings which offered a magnificent view over the Ngorongoro crater.

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The Grey crowned Crane is a fabulous creature (tour participant Carl-Axel Bauer)

Our full day in the fabulous Ngorongoro crater started in rather cold, rainy and overcast conditions, but luckily the weather soon improved. We found ourselves surrounded the whole time by a splendid variety of astonishing mammals and birds. The Ngorongoro definitely offers one of the major wildlife spectacles of the world. Ostriches proved to be decidedly common. A dust-bathing male allowed us to approach within close range and we saw another male chase away a Spotted Hyaena! A pair of eye-catching Hildebrandt’s Francolins were foraging unconcernedly next to the vehicle in a stretch of shrubby woodland. Several enormous Lappet-faced Vultures circled low overhead and we were able to get close to huge, dignified Kori Bustards. Wonderful Grey Crowned Cranes were regularly encountered and we also found a few nests. Several unobtrusive cisticolas were identified on our wanderings through the grasslands and shrubby areas of the crater and these included new species like Trilling, Lynes’s, Desert and Pectoral-patch Cisticolas. A party of Western Yellow Wagtails of the form lutea were feeding around a group of Common Wildebeest and an exceedingly attractive Rosy-throated Longclaw perched up on a small bush for mega looks. We also noted Hottentot and Cape Teals, Greater Flamingo, African Sacred Ibis, Black-crowned Night Heron, Intermediate Egret, Great White Pelican, Common Moorhen, Black-winged Stilt, Common Greenshank, Rufous-naped Lark, Brown-throated and Banded Martins, Black-lored Babbler, Whinchat, Anteater Chat, Speke’s Weaver and several displaying Red-collared Widowbirds. Mammals were a major component of today’s enjoyment. We observed 37 different Lions, including imposing adult males, attentive females and quite a few young of different age groups. These big cats were usually asleep, but a family with young was found feeding on a baby Common Wildebeest. A cracking Leopard crossed the track in the early morning

8 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com and although the sighting was a bit brief, it sure was impressive. Several Spotted Hyaenas were seen and we also identified Golden and Black-backed Jackals. A cute Bat-eared Fox showed well and we counted no fewer than nine rare Black Rhinos. A single Hartebeest (Kongoni) was found amongst the hundreds and hundreds of grunting Common Wildebeests. Several big herds of African Buffalo and a handful of Common Eland were also about. In late afternoon we wanted to try some more forest birding near our lodge, but rain and mist sabotaged our efforts.

The long hind claws of this lovely Rosy-throated Longclaw are remarkable (tour participant Carl-Axel Bauer)

Dawn was a cold and misty affair with some rain, so our explorations of the montane forest on the rim of the Ngorongoro didn’t lead to anything. An impressive tusker African Elephant stood in the garden of the lodge only meters away from the rooms! We drove slowly west along the crater rim towards the wilds of the Serengeti Plains and as the weather slowly improved, we picked up new birds like Secretarybird and a splendidly friendly Greater Kestrel. We noticed a large concentration of vultures around a recent kill. White- backed and Rüppell’s Vultures were the most common, but there were also several Hooded Vultures about together with a few Spotted Hyaenas. The drive also yielded Red-billed Teal, Red-knobbed Coot, Pied Avocet, Peregrine Falcon, Cape Crow, White-necked Raven and Abyssinian Wheatear. In late morning we arrived at the Naabi Gate of the Serengeti National Park, where we munched our packed lunch and found an interesting variety of birds. Male, a smart female and a rather confusing young Diederik Cuckoo were playing in the acacias and both Red-throated Tit and charming Buff-bellied Warblers entertained us. Nyanza Swift, Hildebrandt’s Starling, a beautiful Silverbird, Black-faced Waxbill, Yellow-fronted Canary and several African Grass Rats were also found. We spent the afternoon driving west towards our lodge in the Seronera area and very much enjoyed the views of a pair of Coqui Francolins. Several endemic Grey-breasted Spurfowl

9 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com foraged along the track and we observed lots of White Storks spread out over the plains. A large circling flock of White Storks was obviously getting ready for migration. Other goodies included Western Marsh, Pallid and Montagu’s Harriers, Senegal Lapwing, Usambiro Barbet, Grey-backed Fiscal, Wattled Starling, Grey-capped Social Weaver, Grey-headed Silverbill and Long-billed Pipit. We were escorted by lots of Common Wildebeest, Plains Zebra, Thomson’s and Grant’s Gazelles and obtained good looks at a nice group of Hartebeest and at a very smart-looking Leopard Tortoise.

The endemic Tanzanian Red-billed Hornbill and Dark Chanting Goshawk inhabited the miombo of the central Serengeti (Mark Van Beirs)

On our first morning in the Seronera area of the Serengeti National Park we visited the nearby miombo woodland which produced several excellent endemics. Good numbers of the only recently split Tanzanian Red-billed Hornbills showed well. A party of gorgeous and very localized Grey-crested Helmetshrikes performed beautifully at close range. A Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl was spotted on its day roost by our eagle-eyed driver and several lovely Red-breasted Swallows were building their nests in a culvert. On our wanderings we also noted Dark Chanting Goshawk, African Cuckoo, Usambiro Barbet, Bearded Woodpecker, Orange- breasted Bushshrike, Lesser Grey Shrike, Flappet and White-tailed Larks, Croaking Cisticola, Miombo Wren- Warbler, Grey-capped Social Weaver and Red-cheeked Cordon-blue. After a short break in the middle of the day we explored the grassy savanna where a magnificent female Leopard and her playful, rather boisterous cub was the highlight. We observed this magical cat for more than an hour and were lucky enough to be able to admire it down to just 20 meters away! A fabulous experience! A pair of extremely cute Pygmy Falcons showed some splendid interaction as the male handed over a mouse to his brown-backed partner. A daunting Martial Eagle sat perched in a small tree and a male Black-bellied Bustard flew leisurely past. Little Stint, Greater Blue-eared Starling and a Western Yellow Wagtail of the race thunbergi were other additions to the tally. While having dinner on the outside terrace of the restaurant, a truly enormous bull African Buffalo approached our table to within ten meters, which made us feel slightly uncomfortable… A couple of enchanting, ever so comely Northern Lesser Galagos were foraging in the trees surrounding our chalets as we returned to our rooms.

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The localized Karamoja Apalis is restricted to Whistling Thorns (Mark Van Beirs)

Another splendid day in the Seronera area started in a stretch of “Whistling Thorns” (Vachellia drepanolobium, a kind of acacia), where we soon got acquainted with a quartet of the rare and localized Karamoja Apalis. These lovely little birds are restricted to these special, very thorny small trees and showed their white tertials really well. After this much appreciated success we further explored open woodland and nearby savanna. One of the highlights of the morning was our observation of a herd of about 30 African Buffalos being besieged by a group of 19 Spotted Hyaenas. It sadly all happened rather distant, so we couldn’t see the wounded Buffalo the Hyaenas were trying to get at, but every time a Hyaena was trying to creep closer, one of the Buffalos charged and chased it away. Several Lions were also waiting nearby. We watched this spectacle for a while, but then the Buffalo herd disappeared into the miombo woodland, so we don’t know what happened further… On our wanderings we noted exciting birds like Striated Heron, Bearded Woodpecker, a pair of tiny Grey Penduline Tits, an active colony of Vitelline Masked Weavers and a couple of Yellow-throated Longclaws. In a meander of the Grumeti River we admired a large gathering of Hippos at close range. Their interactions were truly fascinating and entertaining to watch and their sounds and smells unique. We also noticed several small herds of rather ungainly-looking Topi. In the afternoon, very dark clouds preceded an impressive thunderstorm that raged over the savanna for more than an hour. Bird and mammal activity soon resumed after the showers had passed. Parties of vultures were grounded in the few trees and one of these held a pair of smart White-headed Vultures. We taped in a Black Coucal for great looks and a magnificent Martial Eagle posed at close range for mega views. A stunning Purple Roller modelled in the late afternoon light, which got the cameras clicking away like mad. On our return to base a White-tailed Mongoose crossed the track.

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A powerful Martial Eagle and a delightful Purple Roller enlivened our afternoon drive at Seronera (Mark Van Beirs)

After breakfast we first admired a couple of lovely Yellow-winged Bats in the gardens, before waving goodbye to the very comfortable Serengeti Serena Lodge. We visited the Seronera Visitor’s Centre, which is situated on a kopje and where identifying the many hyraxes proved a bit of a challenge. Both Yellow-spotted and Rock Hyraxes were easy to observe in the trees and on the rocks and here we found our first Red- fronted Barbet. We continued towards the Naabi gate, enjoying close up looks at Ruff, Little Stint, Three- banded Plover and a fabulous female Leopard with a cub walking about. Not much later we spotted a brilliant male Cheetah that posed delightfully next to the track. After a while he disappeared into the tall grass to greet his hiding ladyfriend. We journeyed on and suddenly encountered tens of thousands of Wildebeests streaming over the endless plains. Uncountable masses of these grunting herbivores filled the view from horizon to horizon. What an incredible, primordial scene! Good numbers of Plains Zebra and Thomson’s and Grant’s Gazelles were accompanying the Gnus and hundreds of White Storks were foraging amongst the countless quadrupeds. After this unique experience we headed for the Naabi gate, where we enjoyed our packed lunch and admired amazingly colourful Flat-headed Agama Lizards. We continued our travels, which were interrupted by another Cheetah and several Lions. It had obviously rained quite heavily in the area and driving towards Ndutu proved a bit of a challenge. We encountered several vehicles which got stuck in the slimy, treacherous black cotton soil, but our very able driver manoeuvred our Toyota Landcruiser nimbly across the really bad stretches. A party of Black-winged Lapwings posed along the track and our second Three-banded Courser of the trip was found. Hundreds of Gull-billed Terns were hunting over the plains and we could approach several pairs of well-camouflaged Yellow-throated Sandgrouse. A Slender-tailed Nightjar was flushed, as was a comely African Savanna Hare. We arrived in late afternoon at the lovely Ndutu Lodge and after checking in, explored the grounds. Our delicious dinner was accompanied by two very attractive and well-behaved Common Genets.

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These two spotted cats were seen as we drove to Ndutu: a glorious Leopard and a sleek Cheetah (Mark Van Beirs)

On our first full day in the Ndutu area we investigated the different habitats this exciting part of the Serengeti has to offer. The open acacia woodland gave us a pair of Coqui Francolin with six tiny chicks and great looks at Great Spotted, Levaillant’s and African Cuckoos. Several dead trees were draped in vultures, which were drying out in the morning sun after a heavy nocturnal shower. Lots of White-backed and Rüppell’s showed and there were also several impressive Lappet-faced Vultures about. A pair of daunting Spotted Eagle Owls were roosting in an open tree and African Hoopoe gave great looks. Our driver expertly found a roosting Central African Large-spotted Genet in the dense canopy of a mid-sized acacia tree and a couple of furtive Steenbok made an appearance. The wide short grass plains produced a close Secretarybird, a friendly pair of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse and three delightful Cheetahs, that had obviously just had a good meal. A small flock of Greater and a single Lesser Flamingo, Common Ringed and delightful Chestnut-banded Plovers and two Curlew Sandpipers in breeding plumage were discovered on the shores of Lake Ndutu. The highlight of the day was our incredible luck in being able to witness a successful hunt of a single lioness at

White-backed and Rüppell’s Vultures were drying out after a nocturnal shower (Mark van Beirs)

13 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com close range in mid-afternoon. We found her dozing at the edge of a river valley and as soon as we got close to her, she got up and peered very focused in mid distance where a herd of Common Wildebeest was grazing. We saw immediately that she meant business, so moved the vehicle to a strategic position. The lioness approached the herd stealthily and slowly crouched closer and closer to the unexpected herbivores. She managed to get within 30 metres without being seen and suddenly sprinted and covered the final meters in an incredible burst of speed. The victim she had chosen was thrown to the ground and quickly strangled. The whole hunt had only taken about 15 minutes, was so very efficiently handled and took place in full view only fifty meters from us! What a fantastic, unforgettable experience! We then watched her open the body cavity and tastily tear and eat juicy bits from the intestines… 20 minutes later she had copiously eaten and after drinking from a nearby puddle, stretched out not too far from the carcass and relaxed. We couldn’t believe our luck!

Lioness in action! (tour participant Bengt Grandin)

Friday the 13th started with a bang as, not long after dawn, while we were slowly driving along the shore of Lake Ndutu, Bengt spotted a splendid Caracal walking towards a stretch of dense shrub. We all had brief, but good views of this most elegant tawny-coloured cat. Wow!! Further exploration of a river valley and adjoining plains gave us an occupied eyrie of showy Secretarybirds, several very close Chestnut-banded Plovers, a cracking Temminck’s Courser, a dozing Cheetah and a small herd of marvellous, but rather shy Common Elands. We had a look at the spot where the Lioness had made and eaten her kill yesterday and found good numbers of vultures and marabous fighting and squabbling over the very few remains. White- backed and Rüppell’s were the most common, but there were also at least ten impressive Lappet-faced Vultures about. Just before midday our vehicle got stuck in a treacherous patch of black cotton soil and our driver had to use the jack to get the Landcruiser out of the glutinous mud. In the afternoon we visited nearby Lake Masek, where colourful Fisher’s Lovebirds, tiny Buff-bellied Warblers and exquisite Scarlet-chested, Variable and Beautiful Sunbirds showed extremely well. Upon our return to base, we noticed a female and an immature Bateleur in a tree not far from the track, but as soon as we went off road we got stuck again in

14 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com the sticky mud (Friday the 13th!!). Luckily, it didn’t take too long to get the vehicle out. We celebrated our final evening of the tour with an excellent dinner.

The long feathers resembling quill pens stuck behind the ears of an office clerk probably led to the name of Secretarybird (Mark Van Beirs)

The last day of the tour was mainly a travelling day. We left the delightful Ndutu Lodge after an early breakfast and first made our way along a very muddy and slippery track which took all the concentration of our driver. We swerved, slithered and skidded and reached the main track after 40 nail-biting minutes. Large herds of Common Wildebeest and fair numbers of Thomson’s and Grant’s Gazelles accompanied us and one lucky soul spotted a Honey Badger. We paid a short visit to the famous Olduvai gorge, where Mary and Louis Leakey discovered so much about the early hominids. Birdwise it was rather quiet here. We observed a Rock Martin collecting nesting material at a puddle and added Common House Martin, African Silverbill and a swift Cape Hare to the tally. After this interesting stop we continued along the Ngorongoro crater rim, where Schalow’s Turaco, Brown-headed Apalis and Abyssinian Thrush appeared. We couldn’t locate any flowering Leonotis, but had an exciting encounter with a herd of impressive African Buffalo. We reached the main gate around midday and found a fall of Red-backed and Lesser Grey Shrikes. The rest of the journey went smoothly and we reached Kilimanjaro airport in late afternoon where we parted ways after a very successful and enjoyable safari.

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The fabulous Lilac-breasted Roller (Mark Van Beirs)

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Lesser Kestrels (tour participant Bengt Grandin); Elephants at sunrise (Mark Van Beirs)

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The brilliant Grey-crested Helmetshrike is one of the rarest birds of the tour (tour participant Carl-Axel Bauer)

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR

The species names and taxonomy used in the report mostly follows Gill, F & D Donsker (Eds). IOC World Bird Names. This list is updated several times annually and is available at http://www.worldbirdnames.org.

Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were only recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (LO). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL).

18 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com Species marked with the diamond symbol (◊) are either endemic to the country or local region or considered ‘special’ birds for some other reason (e.g. it is only seen on one or two Birdquest tours; it is difficult to see across all or most of its range; the local form is endemic or restricted-range and may in future be treated as a full species).

Conservation threat categories and information are taken from Threatened Birds of the World, BirdLife International’s magnificent book on the sad status of the rarest 10% of the world’s avifauna, and updates on the BirdLife website: http://www.birdlife.org/datazone/home E = Endangered, V = Vulnerable, NT = Near Threatened, DD = Data Deficient.

Male and female Common Ostrich (Mark Van Beirs)

Egyptian Geese (Mark Van Beirs)

19 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com Common Ostrich Struthio camelus Regular observations in the open grasslands. White-faced Whistling Duck Dendrocygna viduata A handful of records. Fulvous Whistling Duck Dendrocygna bicolor A couple of encounters with this widespread species. Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis Just a few sightings of this large waterfowl. Knob-billed Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos Good looks at eight birds in Tarangire. Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiaca The most common waterfowl of the tour. Hottentot Teal Spatula hottentota Just a few observations. Cape Teal (C Wigeon) Anas capensis Regular in the Ngorongoro crater and the Serengeti. Red-billed Teal (R-b Duck) Anas erythrorhyncha Small numbers were in the Ngorongoro crater and the Serengeti.

Cape Teal; Hemeted Guineafowl (Mark Van Beirs)

Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris Regular in the Ngorongoro crater and the Serengeti. Coqui Francolin Peliperdix coqui Several pairs showed well. A pair with six tiny chicks was seen near Ndutu. Crested Francolin Dendroperdix sephaena Excellent looks at several in Tarangire NP. Hildebrandt's Francolin ◊ Pternistis hildebrandti A pair gave super views in the Ngorongoro. Yellow-necked Spurfowl Pternistis leucoscepus Fairly common in Tarangire NP. Grey-breasted Spurfowl ◊ Pternistis rufopictus This Tanzanian endemic showed perfectly in the Serengeti.

Coqui Francolin; Crested Francolin (Mark Van Beirs)

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Hildebrandt’s Francolin; Yellow-necked Spurfowl (Mark Van Beirs)

Grey-breasted Spurfowl; Red-necked Spurfowl (Mark Van Beirs)

Red-necked Spurfowl Pternistis afer Regular observations in the Tarangire NP. Common Quail Coturnix coturnix (H) We heard the distinctive call on the Ngorongoro crater rim. Harlequin Quail Coturnix delegorguei (NL) Mark H saw one in the Serengeti. Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus A couple of small flocks were noted in the Serengeti. Lesser Flamingo Phoeniconaias minor A single bird was with the previous species at Lake Ndutu. Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis The large, active colony at Lake Manyara was well worth admiring. Abdim's Stork Ciconia abdimii A single bird was seen near Kilimanjaro airport.

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Yellow-billed Stork colony; White Stork (Mark Van Beirs)

White Stork Ciconia ciconia Good numbers of these northern migrants were foraging on the Serengeti plains. Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis Two observations of this impressive species. Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumenifer Regular along our whole route. Not everyone’s favourite! African Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus A few were noted in the Ngorongoro area.

The much maligned Marabou Stork (Mark Van Beirs)

22 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash Heard and seen near Same and Arusha. Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus A handful at Manyara and in the Ngorongoro. African Spoonbill Platalea alba Regular at Manyara and in the Ngorongoro. Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Three birds were found at a small lake in the Ngorongoro crater. Striated Heron (Green-backed H) Butorides striata Several were noted along a stream in the central Serengeti. Squacco Heron (Common S H) Ardeola ralloides A single bird was observed at Lake Manyara. Western Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis Regular. Grey Heron Ardea cinerea Small numbers were seen along our route.

Western Cattle Egrets; Black-headed Heron (Mark Van Beirs)

Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala Regular. Goliath Heron Ardea goliath A single bird showed well at Lake Manyara.

Goliath Heron (tour participant Bengt Grandin); Purple Heron (Mark Van Beirs)

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea A couple of observations only. Great Egret Ardea alba Just a few sightings. Intermediate Egret (Yellow-billed E) Ardea [intermedia] brachyrhyncha Two were identified in the Ngorongoro. Black Heron (Black E) Egretta ardesiaca Great looks at foraging birds doing their “thing” at Lake Manyara. Little Egret Egretta garzetta We only saw some at the Nyumba Ya Mungu reservoir. Hamerkop Scopus umbretta A handful of observations only. We also found several nests.

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Black Heron; Hamerkop (Mark Van Beirs)

Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus A single bird was seen in the Ngorongoro crater. Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens Small numbers were found along our route. Reed Cormorant (Long-tailed C) Microcarbo africanus We only saw this species at Nyumba Ya Mungu. White-breasted Cormorant Phalacrocorax lucidus Small numbers were noted on different lakes.

Gloriosa Lily; Kori Bustard (Mark Van Beirs)

Secretarybird Sagittarius serpentarius THE BIRD OF THE TRIP. Brilliant looks on several occasions! Western Osprey Pandion haliaetus Three observations of this piscivore at the Nyumba Ya Mungu reservoir. Black-winged Kite Elanus caeruleus A regularly observed, attractive bird of prey. African Harrier-Hawk Polyboroides typus Four observations of the “Gymnogene”. Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax angolensis An immature bird showed overhead in the Tarangire NP. European Honey Buzzard (Eurasian H B) Pernis apivorus Two observations of this Palearctic migrant near Same. Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus Small numbers were noted around the predator kills.

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Rüppell’s Vulture; White-headed Vulture (Mark Van Beirs)

White-backed Vulture (African W-b V) Gyps africanus Many, fabulous views. Rüppell's Vulture (R's Griffon V) Gyps rueppelli This smart vulture showed well on many occasions. White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis Four sightings of this unusual vulture. Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotos Cracking, eye-ball to eye-ball encounters with the largest of the tribe. Black-chested Snake Eagle Circaetus pectoralis A dozen observations, often at close range. Brown Snake Eagle Circaetus cinereus Five encounters. We also saw some attractive immature birds.

Rüppell’s Vulture (Mark Van Beirs)

25 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus A regularly observed bird of prey. Fantastic looks both perched and in flight. Crowned Eagle Stephanoaetus coronatus (H) We heard the distinctive call at the Ngorongoro crater rim. Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus Three sightings of this powerful raptor. One showed very well in the Serengeti.

Lappet-faced Vulture; Brown Snake Eagle (Mark Van Beirs)

Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis Five encounters with this comically looking bird of prey. Wahlberg's Eagle Hieraaetus wahlbergi Two observations only of this intra African migrant. Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax Fairly common in the parks. Many excellent encounters. Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis Just a handful of observations. A Palearctic migrant. African Hawk-Eagle Aquila spilogaster Two sightings of this dashing species at Tarangire. Gabar Goshawk Micronisus gabar Three observations. A perched bird near Ndutu showed its red cere!

Black-chested Snake Eagle; immature Bateleur (Mark Van Beirs)

Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates Regular in the Serengeti woodlands. Eastern Chanting Goshawk (E Pale C G) Melierax poliopterus Several very nice encounters. Attractive. Black Sparrowhawk (Great S) Accipiter melanoleucus A single observation in mountain forest along the crater rim. Western Marsh Harrier (Eurasian M H) Circus aeruginosus Two observations over the Serengeti grasslands. Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus Several excellent encounters with this extremely smart bird of prey.

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Female Bateleur; Long-crested Eagle (Mark Van Beirs)

Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus Another fantastic raptor that showed very well on several occasions. Yellow-billed Kite Milvus aegyptius Small numbers were noted wherever people live. African Fish Eagle Haliaeetus vocifer The voice of Africa. Three perfect encounters. Common Buzzard Buteo [buteo] vulpinus Regular sightings of this Palearctic migrant. Mountain Buzzard Buteo oreophilus Two performed well in the forest of the Ngorongoro crater rim.

Tawny Eagle; Eastern Chanting Goshawk (Mark Van Beirs)

Augur Buzzard Buteo augur Quite common. Both pale and dark morphs were seen well. Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori Many excellent observations of Africa’s heaviest flying bird. White-bellied Bustard (Northern W-b B) Eupodotis senegalensis Very nice looks at small numbers. Black-bellied Bustard Lissotis melanogaster We only saw this species in the Serengeti. Great flight views.

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Yellow-billed Kite; Augur Buzzard (Mark Van Beirs)

Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostra Regular and showy at ponds and streams. Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Regular and well-known. Red-knobbed Coot (Crested C) Fulica cristata 20 were seen in the distance on a crater rim lake. Grey Crowned Crane Balearica regulorum Fabulous encounters in the Ngorongoro. Several nests were found.

White-bellied Bustard; Black-bellied Bustard (Mark Van Beirs)

Water Thick-knee Burhinus vermiculatus Regular and not shy at all. Spotted Thick-knee Burhinus capensis (H) We heard it at dusk in the Serengeti. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Many nice sightings. Quite vocal. Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta Just a few observations of this well-known species. Long-toed Lapwing (L-t Plover) Vanellus crassirostris Excellent looks at this marsh-lover at Lake Manyara. Blacksmith Lapwing (B Plover) Vanellus armatus Common all along our route. Spur-winged Lapwing (S-w Plover) Vanellus spinosus Almost as common as the previous species. Senegal Lapwing (S Plover) Vanellus lugubris A flock was noted on our way into the Serengeti. Black-winged Lapwing (B-w Plover) Vanellus melanopterus Several showed well on the Ndutu plains. Crowned Lapwing (C Plover) Vanellus coronatus Common and vociferous. African Wattled Lapwing (A W Plover) Vanellus senegallus A single bird was noted at Lake Manyara. Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula A few were identified on the shore of Lake Ndutu. Kittlitz's Plover Charadrius pecuarius Fabulous looks at this dainty species on several occasions. Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris Regular and showy at freshwater ponds. Chestnut-banded Plover ◊ Charadrius pallidus Excellent close up looks on the shores of Lake Ndutu. African Jacana Actophilornis africanus Just a few observations of the “lily trotter”.

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Grey Crowned Crane; Water Thick-knee (Mark Van Beirs)

Kittlitz’s Plover (Mark Van Beirs)

Ruff Calidris pugnax A regularly encountered Palearctic migrant. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Three birds, of which two in cracking breeding attire, were at Lake Ndutu. Little Stint Calidris minuta Very good looks at small numbers in the Serengeti and in the Ndutu area. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Small numbers throughout. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis Regular. Some were already in breeding plumage. Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola One of the more common Palearctic migrants. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Just two records.

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Chestnut-banded Plover (tour participant Carl-Axel Bauer)

Temminck's Courser Cursorius temminckii A single bird was seen brilliantly in the Ndutu area. Double-banded Courser (Two-b C) Rhinoptilus africanus Many encounters. Always good fun. Three-banded Courser (Heuglin’s C) Rhinoptilus cinctus Perfect looks on two occasions. A splendid wader! Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola 30 were at Lake Manyara and several more in the Ngorongoro. African Skimmer Rynchops flavirostris 100+ showed well at the Nyumba Ya Mungu reservoir. Grey-headed Gull Chroicocephalus cirrocephalus Several were noted at a few lakes. The only resident gull. Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Many were feeding over the Serengeti grasslands. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida A few, of which some in breeding plumage, were seen near Same. White-winged Tern (W-w Black T) Chlidonias leucopterus Regular. Many were in the very smart breeding plumage. Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus 100+ at the Lariboro plains, but we had perfect looks near Ndutu. Yellow-throated Sandgrouse ◊ Pterocles gutturalis A handful of excellent encounters near Ndutu. Black-faced Sandgrouse ◊ Pterocles decoratus This intricately beautiful species gave great looks at Tarangire. Rock Dove (introduced) (Feral Pigeon) Columba livia Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea Regular in towns and villages. African Olive Pigeon (Rameron P) Columba arquatrix Great looks at our Arusha hotel.

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Little Stint; Wood Sandpiper (Mark Van Beirs)

Three-banded Courser; Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse (Mark Van Beirs)

Yellow-throated Sandgrouse; Speckled Pigeon (Mark Van Beirs)

Dusky Turtle Dove Streptopelia lugens Fairly common in the Ngorongoro highlands. Mourning Collared Dove (African M D) Streptopelia decipiens Regular. A distinctive call. Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata Common in the highlands. Ring-necked Dove Streptopelia capicola Very common in the lowlands. “Work harder”. Laughing Dove Spilopelia senegalensis Small numbers were seen all along our route. Emerald-spotted Wood Dove Turtur chalcospilos Regular observations. Often heard. Tambourine Dove Turtur tympanistria We only saw this species on the Ngorongoro rim. Namaqua Dove Oena capensis Small numbers.

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Temminck’s Courser (tour participant Carl-Axel Bauer)

Schalow's Turaco Tauraco schalowi Good looks in the Ngorongoro rim forests. Fairly shy. Bare-faced Go-away-bird Corythaixoides [personatus] leopoldi Regular in the Serengeti miombo. White-bellied Go-away-bird Corythaixoides leucogaster Fairly common during the first week of the trip. White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus Regular observations. More often heard. Black Coucal Centropus grillii Cracking looks at a singing bird near Seronera. Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius Two vocal birds showed very well near Ndutu. Levaillant's Cuckoo Clamator levaillantii A single bird allowed fair looks near Ndutu. Jacobin Cuckoo (Black-and-white C) Clamator jacobinus Two fleeting observations only. Diederik Cuckoo (Didric C) Chrysococcyx caprius Many excellent sightings. Very smart! Klaas's Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas Just two encounters.

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Dusky Turtle Dove (tour participant Bengt Grandin); Mourning Collared Dove (Mark Van Beirs)

Ring-necked Dove; Namaqua Dove (Mark Van Beirs)

Black Coucal (tour participant Carl-Axel Bauer); immature Diederik Cuckoo (Mark Van Beirs)

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Red-chested Cuckoo (tour participant Carl-Axel Bauer); African Scops Owl (tour participant Bengt Grandin)

African Cuckoo (Mark Van Beirs)

African Emerald Cuckoo Chrysococcyx cupreus (H) We heard it in the garden of our Arusha hotel. Red-chested Cuckoo Cuculus solitarius Only recorded during the first week of the tour. Great looks. African Cuckoo Cuculus gularis Several perfect observations. Common Cuckoo (Eurasian C) Cuculus canorus Just a few were seen. African Scops Owl Otus senegalensis Fantastic studies of a roosting bird at our Tarangire lodge. Spotted Eagle-Owl Bubo africanus Splendid looks at this angry-looking species. Best views were at Ndutu.

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Spotted Eagle Owl; Verreaux’s Eagle Owl (Mark Van Beirs)

Verreaux's Eagle-Owl Bubo lacteus A roosting bird was found near Seronera. Pink eye-lids! African Wood Owl Strix woodfordii (H) One was heard at Seronera. Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum No fewer than seven observations of this fierce-looking Lilliput. Slender-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus clarus We flushed one on the drive to Ndutu. Scarce Swift Schoutedenapus myoptilus Good looks at one flying low overhead at the Ngorongoro main gate.

White-rumped Swift; Speckled Mousebird (Mark Van Beirs)

35 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus Regular around palms. Alpine Swift Tachymarptis melba Four were swooping over the gardens of our Arusha hotel. Common Swift (Eurasian S) Apus apus Just a few observations. Nyanza Swift ◊ Apus niansae Two flocks were noted in the Ngorongoro area. Little Swift Apus affinis The most commonly encountered swift. White-rumped Swift Apus caffer Regular in small numbers. Speckled Mousebird Colius striatus Fairly common. White-headed Mousebird ◊ Colius leucocephalus Two showed well in the Same acacia thickets. Blue-naped Mousebird Urocolius macrourus Several nice observations. A beauty. Purple Roller (Rufous-crowned R) Coracias naevius Just two observations of this jewel.

Lilac-breasted Roller (Mark Van Beirs)

Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudatus Common and so very attractive. Always a firm favourite! European Roller (Eurasian R) Coracias garrulus Small numbers were noted in the Serengeti. Grey-headed Kingfisher (Chestnut-bellied K) Halcyon leucocephala Just a handful of observations. Brown-hooded Kingfisher Halcyon albiventris A single bird performed well at our Arusha hotel. Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti Several nice sightings. One of the more subtle kingfishers. Woodland Kingfisher Halcyon senegalensis Regular and very vocal. African Pygmy Kingfisher Ispidina picta Brief looks at one at our Tarangire accommodation. Malachite Kingfisher Corythornis cristatus Several brilliant encounters. Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maxima One was seen at our Arusha hotel. Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Many were at the Nyumba Ya Mungu reservoir. One or two elsewhere.

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European Roller; Grey-headed Kingfisher (Mark Van Beirs)

Brown-hooded Kingfisher (tour participant Bengt Grandin); Malachite Kingfisher (Mark Van Beirs)

Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus Regular and so pretty. Cinnamon-chested Bee-eater ◊ Merops oreobates Just one in the Ngorongoro rim forest. Blue-cheeked Bee-eater Merops persicus A few encounters, usually together with European Bee-eaters. Olive Bee-eater Merops superciliosus A few showed well on the first days of the tour. European Bee-eater (Eurasian B-e) Merops apiaster Regular and so very attractive. African Hoopoe Upupa africana Fairly regular, but quite shy. Brilliant looks at two near Ndutu. Green Wood Hoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus Several vocal family parties offered good looks. Abyssinian Scimitarbill ◊ Rhinopomastus minor A single bird enlivened our picnic lunch near Tarangire. Southern Ground Hornbill Bucorvus leadbeateri Regular and so very impressive. Tanzanian Red-billed Hornbill ◊ (Ruaha R-b H) Tockus ruahae Excellent looks at this endemic at Seronera. Northern Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus Quite common at Tarangire and Manyara.

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Woodland Kingfisher (Mark Van Beirs)

Von der Decken's Hornbill ◊ Tockus deckeni Regular and showy. African Grey Hornbill Lophoceros nasutus Fairly common. Silvery-cheeked Hornbill Bycanistes brevis Several very nice observations. Best were the few at Manyara. White-eared Barbet Stactolaema leucotis Great looks at three in the Arusha hotel gardens. Moustached Tinkerbird ◊ Pogoniulus leucomystax Two performed quite well in the Ngorongoro highland forest. Red-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus pusillus A few heard and one seen well during our picnic stop near Tarangire. Red-fronted Barbet Tricholaema diademata Two showed well in the Serengeti. Spot-flanked Barbet ◊ Tricholaema lacrymosa Brilliant views at the Nyumba Ya Mungu reservoir. Brown-breasted Barbet ◊ Lybius melanopterus Perfect scope studies in the Arusha hotel gardens. Red-and-yellow Barbet ◊ Trachyphonus erythrocephalus Five observations during the first week. A real cracker. D'Arnaud's Barbet ◊ Trachyphonus darnaudii Regular sightings during the first week of the tour.

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Olive Bee-eater; African Hoopoe (Mark Van Beirs)

Southern Ground Hornbill (Mark Van Beirs)

D'Arnaud's Barbet ◊ Trachyphonus [darnaudii] usambiro Decidedly common in the Serengeti. Splendid duets! Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor A couple showed in the Ngorongoro Farmhouse gardens. Greater Honeyguide (Black-throated H) Indicator indicator Good looks at a male at Tarangire. Nubian Woodpecker Campethera nubica Regular observations. Bearded Woodpecker Chloropicus namaquus Several very nice sightings. Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens Regular.

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A male Von der Decken’s Hornbill; African Grey Hornbill (Mark Van Beirs)

Red-fronted Barbet; Spot-flanked Barbet (Mark Van Beirs)

Eastern Grey Woodpecker ◊ Dendropicos spodocephalus Fairly common. A nest was attended at Tarangire. Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus Fantastic studies of an interacting pair at Seronera. Several more sightings. Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni These endearing, migrant birds of prey gave many excellent views. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Two encounters with this resident species. Greater Kestrel ◊ (White-eyed K) Falco rupicoloides Perfect eye-ball to eye-ball looks near the Serengeti gate. Grey Kestrel Falco ardosiaceus Two nice sightings of this widespread species. Amur Falcon ◊ (Eastern Red-footed F) Falco amurensis Seven observations of this long distance migrant. Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo Seven observations of this swift migrant. Lanner Falcon Falco biarmicus Just two observations. Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus A single bird was seen circling over the Ngorongoro crater rim. Meyer's Parrot (Brown P) Poicephalus meyeri A handful of sightings. Red-bellied Parrot ◊ (African Orange-bellied P) Poicephalus rufiventris Just a few at Tarangire. Fischer's Lovebird ◊ Agapornis fischeri This speciality was common in the Serengeti and at Ndutu. Charming! Yellow-collared Lovebird ◊ Agapornis personatus Common and so appealing at Tarangire. Chinspot Batis Batis molitor Small numbers were noted all along our route.

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Red-and-yellow Barbet; D’Arnaud’s (Usambiro) Barbet (Mark Van Beirs)

Nubian Woodpecker; Eastern Grey Woodpecker (Mark Van Beirs)

Pygmy Batis Batis perkeo A single bird showed very well in the acacia thickets at the Nyumba Ya Mungu reservoir. Black-throated Wattle-eye Platysteira peltata A single male showed on the second day of the trip. White-crested Helmetshrike Prionops plumatus A party allowed fair looks at our Tarangire picnic stop. Grey-crested Helmetshrike ◊ Prionops poliolophus Excellent studies of a family party at Seronera. A true speciality! Orange-breasted Bushshrike (Sulphur-b B) Chlorophoneus sulfureopectus Good looks at two at Seronera. Rosy-patched Bushshrike ◊ Telophorus cruentus This cracker showed very well at Nyumba Ya Mungu. Brown-crowned Tchagra Tchagra australis Regular. More often heard than seen. Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegalus Several heard and only one seen. Black-backed Puffback Dryoscopus cubla Good looks at two at Tarangire.

41 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com

Pygmy Falcon (Mark Van Beirs); Lesser Kestrels (tour participant Carl-Axel Bauer)

Lanner Falcon; Fischer’s Lovebird (Mark Van Beirs)

Yellow-collared Lovebird; Pygmy Batis (Mark Van Beirs)

42 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com

Greater Kestrel (Mark Van Beirs)

Slate-colored Boubou Laniarius funebris Many very nice sightings. A common voice of the Serengeti thickets. Tropical Boubou Laniarius major Regular in the highland forests. A splendid call. Brubru Nilaus afer Regular sightings. An often heard voice. Black Cuckooshrike Campephaga flava Fleeting views of a male at Ndutu. Magpie Shrike Urolestes melanoleucus Regular and showy in the Serengeti. Northern White-crowned Shrike Eurocephalus ruppelli Common and very visible in the western part of our route. Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio Fairly common. We witnessed a fall at the Ngorongoro gate. Isabelline Shrike (Daurian S) Lanius isabellinus Five observations of this Palearctic migrant. No Red-tailed Shrikes! Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor Fairly common in the Serengeti. On their return. Grey-backed Fiscal Lanius excubitoroides Family groups were commonly seen in the Serengeti.

43 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com

Brown-crowned Tchagra; Slate-coloured Boubou (Mark Van Beirs)

Brubru; Northern White-crowned Shrike (Mark Van Beirs)

Long-tailed Fiscal ◊ Lanius cabanisi Regular during the first week. Taita Fiscal ◊ Lanius dorsalis A handful of observations. Smart! Northern Fiscal Lanius humeralis Common and obvious in the highlands. Eurasian Golden Oriole (European G O) Oriolus oriolus Four observations at the Nyumba Ya Mungu reservoir. Black-headed Oriole (African, Eastern B-h O) Oriolus larvatus (H) We heard one at the Ngorongoro Farmhouse. Fork-tailed Drongo (Common D) Dicrurus adsimilis Regular. African Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone viridis Two nice sightings of this beautiful species. Cape Crow (C Rook, Black C) Corvus capensis A few near isolated acacia clumps in the Serengeti. Pied Crow Corvus albus Common where man lives. White-necked Raven (W-naped R) Corvus albicollis Regular along the Ngorongoro rim. Red-throated Tit ◊ Melaniparus fringillinus Fabulous looks at two at the Naabi gate. Grey Penduline Tit ◊ (Rungwe P T) Anthoscopus [caroli] sylviella Two played quite hard to get in the Serengeti. Beesley's Lark ◊ (Pygmy Spike-heeled L) Chersomanes beesleyi Perfect looks at several on the Lariboro plains. Fischer's Sparrow-Lark ◊ Eremopterix leucopareia Common and easy to see.

44 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com

Grey-backed Fiscal; Fork-tailed Drongo (Mark Van Beirs)

Red-throated Tit (Mark Van Beirs); Pink-breasted Lark (tour participant Car-Axel Bauer)

Pink-breasted Lark Calendulauda poecilosterna Great looks at several near the Nyumba Ya Mungu reservoir. Foxy Lark ◊ Calendulauda alopex Regular at the Lariboro plains. Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra africana The voice of the plains. Common. Flappet Lark Mirafra rufocinnamomea A handful of observations in open bushy habitat. A distinctive sound. White-tailed Lark ◊ Mirafra albicauda A single bird was noted in the Serengeti, but it disappeared all to quickly. Red-capped Lark Calandrella cinerea Regular. Athi Short-toed Lark ◊ Alaudala athensis Good looks at several on the Lariboro plains. Dark-capped Bulbul Pycnonotus tricolor Very common and obvious. Sombre Greenbul Andropadus importunus Scope views of singing birds in the Nyumba Ya Mungu area. Mountain Greenbul ◊ (Black-headed M G) Arizelocichla nigriceps A few showed well in the highland forests. Northern Brownbul Phyllastrephus strepitans Two performed well at Nyumba Ya Mungu. A bit retiring. Grey-olive Greenbul ◊ Phyllastrephus cerviniventris Perfect looks at one in the Arusha hotel gardens. Black Saw-wing Psalidoprocne [pristoptera] holomelas Common over the highland forests. Brown-throated Martin (Plain M) Riparia paludicola Just a few sightings. Sand Martin (Common S M, Bank Swallow) Riparia riparia We only saw this migrant at Nyumba Ya Mungu.

45 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com

Foxy Lark (tour participant Bengt Grandin); Rufous-naped Lark (Mark Van Beirs)

Banded Martin Riparia cincta A few were foraging over the Serengeti plains. Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica Good numbers were noted all along. Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii Just a few observations. Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula Several nice sightings. Mud collecting birds at Olduvai. Common House Martin Delichon urbicum Three were seen at Olduvai. Lesser Striped Swallow Cecropis abyssinica Common.

Rock Martin; Red-breasted Swallow (Mark Van Beirs)

Red-breasted Swallow (Rufous-chested S) Cecropis semirufa Five were nest building in the Serengeti. Mosque Swallow Cecropis senegalensis Four observations of this handsome fellow. Red-rumped Swallow Cecropis daurica Fairly common in the highlands. Northern Crombec Sylvietta brachyura Two were noted at Nyumba Ya Mungu. Red-faced Crombec Sylvietta whytii Several encounters with this diminutive species. Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus Small numbers of this northern migrant were in the Serengeti thickets. Lesser Swamp Warbler Acrocephalus gracilirostris Good looks at Lake Manyara. Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus (H) We heard the harsh song at Nyumba Ya Mungu. Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus (H) We heard the song at Nyumba Ya Mungu. Little Rush Warbler Bradypterus baboecala (H) We heard the distinctive song at Lake Manyara. Cinnamon Bracken Warbler Bradypterus cinnamomeus Brief looks for some in the Ngorongoro highland forest.

46 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com Red-faced Cisticola Cisticola erythrops (H) We heard it in the Lake Manyara riverine vegetation. Trilling Cisticola ◊ Cisticola woosnami Good looks in the Ngorongoro crater. Hunter's Cisticola ◊ Cisticola hunteri Several vociferous family groups in the highland forests. Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana The most common cisticola. Lynes's Cisticola ◊ Cisticola distinctus A single bird allowed good looks in the Ngorongoro. Winding Cisticola Cisticola marginatus Fairly common in reedbeds. Croaking Cisticola Cisticola natalensis A few observations of this modestly-attired species. Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis Common all along our route. Desert Cisticola Cisticola aridulus Good looks at several in the Ngorongoro. Pectoral-patch Cisticola Cisticola brunnescens Regular and tiny over the wide, open grasslands. Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava Small numbers.

Buff-bellied Warbler (tour participant Bengt Grandin); Grey-capped Warbler (Mark Van Beirs)

Buff-bellied Warbler Phyllolais pulchella Regular in the acacias. Not easy to see well. Yellow-breasted Apalis (Black-breasted A) Apalis flavida Small numbers were noted. Karamoja Apalis ◊ Apalis karamojae One of the specialities! Cracking looks at four in a patch of “Whistling Thorns”. Brown-headed Apalis ◊ Apalis alticola Fair looks at two in the highland forests. Red-fronted Warbler Urorhipis rufifrons Several performed well on the first days of the tour. Grey-capped Warbler ◊ Eminia lepida Perfect looks at a slightly disheveled bird at the Ngorongoro gate.

Grey-backed Camaroptera; Yellow-bellied Eremomela (Mark Van Beirs)

47 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata Common and very vocal. Grey Wren-Warbler ◊ Calamonastes simplex Scope views of a singing bird at Nyumba Ya Mungu. Miombo Wren-Warbler ◊ (Pale W-W) Calamonastes undosus Brief looks at a single bird in the Serengeti miombo. Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis Several nice sightings. A nest was found at Lariboro. Scaly Chatterer Turdoides aylmeri Good looks at this ace skulker at Nyumba Ya Mungu.

Black-lored Babbler (Mark Van Beirs); Brown Parisoma (tour participant Bengt Grandin)

Black-lored Babbler ◊ Turdoides sharpei Many great looks in the Serengeti. Arrow-marked Babbler Turdoides jardineii A few at Tarangire. Northern Pied Babbler ◊ Turdoides hypoleuca Good looks at two at Tarangire. Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis A single observation at Nyumba Ya Mungu. Brown Parisoma Sylvia lugens Good looks at two in the umbrella acacias of the highland forests. Banded Parisoma ◊ Sylvia boehmi Several performed well in the Lariboro acacias. Abyssinian White-eye ◊ Zosterops abyssinicus A couple were found in acacia thickets near Tarangire.

Montane White-eye; Rüppell’s Starling (Mark Van Beirs)

48 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com Montane White-eye ◊ Zosterops poliogastrus A few showed in the highland forests. Wattled Starling Creatophora cinerea Small numbers were escorting the Wildebeest herds. Greater Blue-eared Starling Lamprotornis chalybaeus A small flock was noted in the Serengeti. Rüppell's Starling Lamprotornis purpuroptera Regular and shiny in the central Serengeti.

Superb Starling (tour participant Bengt Grandin); Hildebrandt’s Starling (Mark Van Beirs)

Superb Starling Lamprotornis superbus Common and so attractive. Hildebrandt's Starling ◊ Lamprotornis hildebrandti Small numbers showed very well in the Serengeti. Ashy Starling ◊ Lamprotornis unicolor This endemic proved to be splendidly common at Tarangire. Violet-backed Starling Cinnyricinclus leucogaster Just a few in a fruiting tree at Arusha. Red-winged Starling Onychognathus morio Regular in villages and at cliffs. Waller's Starling Onychognathus walleri Small numbers were found in the rim forest of the Ngorongoro. Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus Regular in the Serengeti. Red-billed Oxpecker Buphagus erythrorynchus More common and more widespread than the previous species. Abyssinian Thrush (Mountain, Northern Olive T) Turdus abyssinicus A couple of sightings in the highland forest. White-browed Scrub Robin Cercotrichas leucophrys Regular. A good songster.

White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher; Silverbird (Mark Van Beirs)

White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher Melaenornis fischeri Regular in the highlands. Several spotty young were seen. Pale Flycatcher Melaenornis pallidus A few on the first days of the tour. African Grey Flycatcher ◊ Melaenornis microrhynchus Regular and quite unobtrusive.

49 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com Silverbird ◊ Empidornis semipartitus Fairly common and very attractive in the Serengeti. Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata One of the more common Palearctic migrants.

African Dusky Flycatcher; Spotted Palm Thrush (Mark Van Beirs)

African Dusky Flycatcher Muscicapa adusta A few were noted in the highland forests. Cape Robin-Chat Cossypha caffra Several nice sightings in the highlands. Rüppell's Robin-Chat ◊ Cossypha semirufa One showed very well at Arusha. Others were heard there. White-browed Robin-Chat Cossypha heuglini Small numbers were recorded in the Ngorongoro highlands.

African Stonechat; Anteater Chat (Mark Van Beirs)

50 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com Spotted Palm Thrush (S Morning T) Cichladusa guttata Many excellent sightings of this well-voiced species. Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos (H) One was heard in the Lariboro plains thickets. Whinchat Saxicola rubetra Three males were observed in the Serengeti. African Stonechat Saxicola torquatus Regular on the rim of the Ngorongoro crater. Anteater Chat (Northern A C) Myrmecocichla aethiops Fairly common in the Ngorongoro.

Capped Wheatear; Scarlet-chested Sunbird (Mark Van Beirs)

Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata One of the common birds of the open plains. Beautifully patterend. Abyssinian Wheatear ◊ Oenanthe [lugubris] schalowi Just a few in a rocky area along the Nngorongoro rim. Eastern Violet-backed Sunbird (Kenya V-b S) Anthreptes orientalis Four sightings during the first week. Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris Small numbers were seen on our travels. Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis Regular and so very attractive.

Beautiful Sunbird (tour participant Carl-Axel Bauer);Variable Sunbird (Mark Van Beirs)

51 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com Hunter’s Sunbird Chalcomitra hunteri A male was at Nyumba Ya Mungu. Tacazze Sunbird ◊ Nectarinia tacazze A single male was at the Ngorongoro Farmhouse. Bronzy Sunbird (Bronze S) Nectarinia kilimensis Several observations in the highlands. Malachite Sunbird Nectarinia famosa Three showed well in the highland forests. Golden-winged Sunbird ◊ Drepanorhynchus reichenowi A single male was found along the rim of the Ngorongoro. Eastern Double-collared Sunbird ◊ Cinnyris mediocris Regular in the highland forests. Beautiful Sunbird Cinnyris pulchellus Common in the acacia thickets. Tsavo Sunbird Cinnyris tsavoensis A male showed well at Nyumba Ya Mungu. Variable Sunbird Cinnyris venustus Regular observations. Very smart when seen well. House Sparrow (introduced) Passer domesticus Fairly common where man occurs.

Kenya Sparrow; White-headed Buffalo Weaver (Mark Van Beirs)

Kenya Sparrow ◊ (Rufous S) Passer rufocinctus Small numbers were noted all along our route. Swahili Sparrow ◊ Passer suahelicus Common. Chestnut Sparrow ◊ Passer eminibey Just a few birds were seen, and only one in breeding attire. Yellow-spotted Petronia ◊ Gymnoris pyrgita Two were found at Nyumba Ya Mungu.

Rufous-tailed Weaver; Grey-capped Social Weaver (Mark Van Beirs)

52 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com Red-billed Buffalo Weaver Bubalornis niger Regular and quite obvious. White-headed Buffalo Weaver Dinemellia dinemelli Common and very showy. White-browed Sparrow-Weaver Plocepasser mahali Small numbers were seen during the first week. Rufous-tailed Weaver ◊ Histurgops ruficauda Many excellent encounters with this Tanzanian endemic. Grey-capped Social Weaver ◊ (Grey-headed S W) Pseudonigrita arnaudi Small numbers showed in the Serengeti.

Speckle-fronted Weaver; Baglafecht Weaver (Mark Van Beirs)

Speckle-fronted Weaver Sporopipes frontalis Regular and attractively patterend. Thick-billed Weaver (Grosbeak-W) Amblyospiza albifrons A single bird was seen at Lake Manyara. Baglafecht Weaver Ploceus baglafecht Regular in the highlands. Little Weaver Ploceus luteolus Two were noted at Nyumba Ya Mungu.

Lesser Masked Weaver; Golden-backed Weaver (Mark Van Beirs)

53 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com Spectacled Weaver Ploceus ocularis Just two in the highlands. Holub's Golden Weaver Ploceus xanthops Great looks at nest building males at the Ngorongoro Farmhouse. Taveta Weaver ◊ (T Golden W) Ploceus castaneiceps A couple of busy colonies at Nyumba Ya Mungu. Lesser Masked Weaver Ploceus intermedius Common. Many small active colonies. Vitelline Masked Weaver Ploceus vitellinus Fairly common. Lots of activity at nests. Speke's Weaver ◊ Ploceus spekei Just a few in the Ngorongoro crater. Village Weaver (Black-headed W) Ploceus cucullatus A couple in the beginning of the trip. Village Weaver ◊ (Layard's W) Ploceus [cucullatus] paroptus Regular in the Ndutu area. Golden-backed Weaver ◊ Ploceus jacksoni Cracking males were displaying at Tarangire. Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps Several great looks at these smart birds. Cardinal Quelea Quelea cardinalis Good looks at attractive males. Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea Fairly common. Black Bishop Euplectes gierowii Fantastic males were seen on several occasions.

Southern Red Bishop (tour participant Carl-Axel Bauer)

Southern Red Bishop Euplectes orix Regular. Quite a few displaying males in wet areas. Yellow Bishop Euplectes capensis Just two males in the crater. Fan-tailed Widowbird Euplectes axillaris Regular. Displaying males were doing their utmost.

54 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com White-winged Widowbird Euplectes albonotatus A single male was found at Lake Manyara.

Red-collared Widowbird; Blue-capped Cordon-bleu (Mark Van Beirs)

Red-collared Widowbird (R-naped W) Euplectes ardens Small numbers were displaying along the crater flanks. Green-winged Pytilia Pytilia melba This attractive species showed well on several occasions. Cut-throat Finch Amadina fasciata Several parties were encountered. Cracking males. Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala A handful of sightings. Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu Uraeginthus bengalus Good looks. Blue-capped Cordon-bleu ◊ Uraeginthus cyanocephalus Regular. Purple Grenadier Uraeginthus ianthinogaster Just a few encounters with this extremely striking species. Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild A single bird was at Tarangire.

Black-faced Waxbill; Long-tailed Paradise Whydah (Mark Van Beirs)

Black-faced Waxbill Estrilda erythronotos Good looks at small numbers in the Serengeti. Quailfinch Ortygospiza atricollis Several were flushed on our drives through the grasslands of the Serengeti. African Silverbill Euodice cantans Two were identified at Olduvai. Grey-headed Silverbill ◊ Odontospiza caniceps Several were noted in the Serengeti. Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata Several were foraging near the Ngorongoro gate. Village Indigobird (Red-billed Firefinch I) Vidua chalybeata A male in breeding condition was at Tarangire. Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura Regular. Straw-tailed Whydah ◊ Vidua fischeri Several gorgeous males performed very well in the Same area. Long-tailed Paradise Whydah (Eastern P W) Vidua paradisaea Three males in splendid breeding attire were seen. Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla [flava] lutea Several nice males were feeding amongst Wildebeests in the crater. Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla [flava] flava Two males were seen at Nyumba Ya Mungu.

55 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com

Straw-tailed Whydah (Bengt Grandin); African Pied Wagtail (Mark Van Beirs)

Western Yellow Wagtail Motacilla [flava] thunbergi A male was identified in the Serengeti. African Pied Wagtail Motacilla aguimp Small numbers throughout.

Yellow-throated Longclaw; Streaky Seedeater (Mark Van Beirs)

Yellow-throated Longclaw Macronyx croceus Several were found in the Serengeti. Rosy-throated Longclaw (R- breasted L) Macronyx ameliae A terrific male showd extremely well in the Ngorongoro. African Pipit (Grassland P) Anthus cinnamomeus Common. Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis A single sighting on a rocky slope in the Serengeti. Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys Several nice encounters. Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis A single bird was identified in the Serengeti. Southern Citril ◊ (East African C) Crithagra hyposticta Several were noted in the highlands. Reichenow's Seedeater ◊ (Kenya Yellow-rumped S) Crithagra reichenowi Several nice sightings. Yellow-fronted Canary Crithagra mozambica Regular. White-bellied Canary Crithagra dorsostriata Fairly common in acacia thickets. Southern Grosbeak-Canary ◊ Crithagra buchanani Perfect looks at singing birds at Nyumba Ya Mungu. Streaky Seedeater Crithagra striolata Regular in the highland shrubbery.

56 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com Yellow-crowned Canary Serinus flavivertex A single observation in the highland forests. Somali Bunting Emberiza poliopleura Cracking looks at singing birds at Nyumba Ya Mungu. Golden-breasted Bunting (African G-b B) Emberiza flaviventris A male was seen near Tarangire.

Ndutu scenery (Mark Van Beirs)

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African Elephants (Mark Van Beirs) MAMMALS

African Elephant Loxodonta africana Many splendid encounters. The sparring young males at Tarangire! Yellow-spotted Hyrax (Small-toothed R H) Heterohyrax brucei Several close ups. Rock Hyrax (Black-necked R H) Procavia [capensis] johnstoni Regular and at close range. Northern Lesser Galago (Northern Lesser G) Galago senegalensis Nice looks at several at the Serena Lodge. Small-eared Greater Galago Otolemur garnettii Brief looks at our Arusha hotel. Blue Monkey (Diademed Guenon) Cercopithecus mitis Several in the Ngorongoro rim forests. Blue Monkey (Sykes's Monkey) Cercopithecus [mitis] albogularis Several east of the rift. Vervet (V Monkey) Chlorocebus pygerythrus Fairly common.

Olive Baboon; Cape Hare (Mark Van Beirs)

Olive Baboon Papio anubis Regular encounters with large groups. Cape Hare Lepus capensis A single animal at Olduvai. African Savanna Hare Lepus microtis We saw one of these in the Ndutu area. African Grass Rat Arvicanthis niloticus Common around the Naabi gate and at Ndutu. Ochre Bush Squirrel Paraxerus ochraceus Several showed well at Tarangire. Unstriped Ground Squirrel Xerus rutilus We saw a few during the first days of the trip.

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African Savanna Hare; Cheetah (Mark Van Beirs)

Cheetah Acinonyx jubatus Several fantastic encounters with this most beautiful feline. Caracal Caracal caracal Brief, but exciting views of one near Ndutu. A splendid mammal!

Lioness (Mark Van Beirs)

Lion Panthera leo Regular. Our record was 37 in a day (Ngorongoro). The Lioness’s hunt was out of this world! Leopard Panthera pardus Terrific eye-ball to eye-ball looks at this magnificent cat! Common Dwarf Mongoose Helogale parvula Several groups were noted. White-tailed Mongoose Ichneumia albicauda A single was observed at dusk at Seronera. Banded Mongoose Mungos mungo We had great looks at two large groups. Spotted Hyaena Crocuta crocuta Common and impressive! Common Genet (Small-spotted G) Genetta genetta The tame ones at Ndutu were very special! Central African Large-spotted Genet Genetta maculata A single was found on its day roost near Ndutu. Side-striped Jackal Canis adustus Brief looks at two in the Ngorongoro.

59 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com

Leopard (Mark Van Beirs)

Dwarf Mongoose; Banded Mongoose (Mark Van Beirs)

Golden Jackal (Golden J) Canis aureus A single showed well in the Ngorongoro. Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas Regular, close up looks. Quite attractive looking. Bat-eared Fox Otocyon megalotis Several sightings, but sadly never at close range. Honey Badger (Honey Badger) Mellivora capensis (NL) Mark H saw one on the final day of the tour. Plains Zebra Equus quagga Common and often so very endearing. Black Rhinoceros (Black R) Diceros bicornis Nine of these colossal mammals showed in the Ngorongoro. Common Warthog Phacochoerus africanus Regular and cute. Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius Lots of splendid encounters with these vocal giants. Impala (Common I) Aepyceros melampus Very common and so very elegant.

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Spotted Hyaena; Common Genet (Mark Van Beirs)

Black-backed Jackal; Plains Zebra (Mark Van Beirs)

Warthog; Hippopotamus (Mark Van Beirs)

61 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com

Hartebeest; Topi (Mark Van Beirs)

Common Wildebeest (Mark Van Beirs)

Hartebeest (Kongoni, Coke's H) Alcelaphus [buselaphus] cokii Nice looks at several small herds. Common Wildebeest (Eastern White-bearded W) Connochaetes [taurinus] albojubatus Small numbers. Common Wildebeest (Serengeti White-bearded W) Connochaetes [taurinus] mearnsi Simply out of this world! Topi (Serengeti T) Damaliscus [lunatus] jimela A handful of sightings of this strange antelope. Thomson's Gazelle (Serengeti T G) Eudorcas [thomsonii] nasalis Many and so very dainty. Thomson's Gazelle (Eastern T G) Eudorcas [thomsonii] thomsonii Small numbers east of the rift. Waterbuck Kobus [ellipsiprymnus] defassa We only saw these at Tarangire and Manyara. Grant's Gazelle Nanger granti Great looks at fair numbers. Kirk’s Dik-dik (Thomas’s D-d) Madoqua [kirkii] thomasi A few east of the rift. Kirk’s Dik-dik (Cavendish’s D-d) Madoqua [kirkii] cavendishi Common and so very cute in the Serengeti. Steenbok (Steenbok) Raphicerus campestris Two sightings of this graceful species. Bohor Reedbuck Redunca redunca Just a handful of observations. African Buffalo (African B) Syncerus caffer Many excellent encounters. So impressive! Common Eland Tragelaphus oryx Fair looks at two small herds. Giraffe (Common G) Giraffa [camelopardalis] tippelskirchi Many splendid close up encounters. Yellow-winged Bat Lavia frons Several showed very well at Seronera.

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Thomson’s Gazelle; Grant’s Gazelle (Mark Van Beirs)

Kirk’s (Thomas’s) Dikdik; Steenbok (Mark Van Beirs)

African Buffalo; Yellow-winged Bat (Mark Van Beirs)

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Giraffe (Mark Van Beirs)

Blue-headed Tree Agama; Flat-headed Agama (Mark Van Beirs)

REPTILES Blue-headed Tree Agama Acanthocerus atricollis Several were seen at Seronera. Flat-headed Agama Agama mwanzae Common and so attractive at the Naabi gate. Red-headed Rock Agama Agama agama Regular observations of the “colonist” Agama. Leopard Tortoise Stigmochelys pardalis Several sightings of this smart species. Spotted Bush Snake Philothamnus semivariegatus One was sunning itself on a roof at Tarangire. Nile Crocodile Crocodilus niloticus Regular observations of this very impressive creature.

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Serengeti sunrise (Mark Van Beirs)

The group in action (Mark Van Beirs)

65 BirdQuest Tour Report: Northern Tanzania www.birdquest-tours.com

Serengeti sunset (Mark Van Beirs)

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