Women and High Heels
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Women and High Heels Why do Women Wear High Heels? High Heels and the reasons why women wear them have been a topic of fascination and controversy since 1533, when they were (allegedly) first created, in Florence, for the wedding of Catherine De Medici. The debate continues as to whether women who like their high heels high in the true sense (i.e. around 13cm or 5 inches without platform) wear them primarily to make themselves tall and assertive, to make their legs look longer, to make them feel fragile and graceful, to feel efficient and aggressive, to accentuate their vulnerability, to make them walk in a certain way, and so on. Scientific research confirms that a woman's femininity and physical appeal to the opposite sex is quantifiably increased by the enhanced posture, shortened step and greater hip rotation caused when wearing high heels. It would seem highly unlikely that the wearer would be unaware of this. This suggests that her main motive is to enhance her own sensuality. She wears heels not only to influence how she presents herself to the world but also how she feels while doing so. An opinion often expressed by anti-heel feminist writers is that the stereotypical male has somehow contrived to compel women to wear high heels so that they cannot "run away". This, we are informed, is symptomatic of Male Oppression. But in fact, assuming Olympic levels of performance are not the intention, most women who regularly wear heels can run perfectly adequately in them if their shoes fit well enough - and men love to watch them go! Seeing all those smartly-dressed women hurrying for the bus or train in their tight-to- the-knee pencil skirts and high stiletto shoes has for decades been the high point of the daily commute. It would be a sad day indeed if women were to abandon running in heels! It is, of course, almost impossible to run in the ill-fitting flip-flops, flat clogs or backless birkenstock sandals favoured by the anti-heel lobby, but this fact undermines the gender politics, so it remains unmentioned. If a need to "run away" has arisen, standing one's ground and delivering a coup de grace with a stiletto heel (as opposed to a soft slap from a flip-flop) may be a more effective option. One other valid motive for wearing stiletto heels may therefore be that of self-preservation. High Heels of one sort or another are universally considered fashionable for women and are therefore socially correct for formal, business or evening wear. They are selected as the de rigeur smart option by women who wish to appear well-dressed and to feel elegant. It is all incredibly simple. There is, to the fashion-conscious woman, absolutely no need to delve any further into the psychological motivation or the "Language" of clothes - or to make high heels into any kind of political issue. However, the real reason why some women choose to go that little bit further and wear unusually (even inconveniently) high heels may even be a mystery to the wearers themselves. The Balancing Act Extremely high heels undeniably make walking more of a challenge. Until - sometimes after - a woman has come to terms with and mastered the way her heels tell her to move and behave, she may encounter the odd difficulty or embarrassing moment. Even the most revered diva or accomplished dominatrix may occasionally topple from her sky-high stilettos. It is obvious that the exaggerate length of leg bestowed on the wearer by her high heels must come at the cost of some stability. The illusion of a disaster-defying, high- wire balancing act is essential to the eternal appeal of the woman poised atop her soaring stilettos and is a key element of the fantasies conjured up in the imaginations of those individuals who are obsessed with fetishistic images of women's bodies contorted by anatomically impossible heels. Nevertheless, walking in very high shoes must surely look to the outsider more difficult than it really is, or far fewer women would be able to accomplish it. Exactly how much conscious "balancing" is taking place when women in real life walk on high, slender stilettos? Perhaps less than you would suppose. The heel of the shoe serves mainly as a prop to stop you falling over backwards (as any woman who has worn stiletto heels on soft grass will have quickly discovered.) For most practical purposes on firm ground, the heel may be as thin as the heelmaker can craft it, assuming it is strong enough. It contributes little towards the wearer's ability to balance laterally, which is achieved, mostly instinctively, at the front of the foot. Women do not therefore walk around actively contemplating how miraculous it is that they are able to balance on their own heels. They just do it. Out of sight, out of mind. Most women probably never give much specific thought at all to the heels of their shoes as they stride along, which is why the perennial and, one would have thought, predictable problem of catching a stiletto heel in a gap in the paving always comes as such a shock to the wearer. As designers and sellers of shoes, we have discovered that no matter how much we emphasize the exact measurement of our heels, and even though just one centimetre of heel height can represent, in some cases, the difference between wearable and unwearable, there will always be customers who have no idea whatsoever of the maximum height they can manage or of the exact height of the heels in their wardrobe. Performing in Heels Sometimes we may see a female celebrity delivered right to the door of a venue in a limousine or cab because her heels are so high she can barely walk. She may be inaccurately criticized by the media as a "fashion victim". But a high heel exponent of exalted status probably cares little for fashion trends and is certainly no victim. She exudes a potent aura of decadent exoticism, like some Femme Fatale or society courtesan, carried along on a litter or in a sedan chair in a bygone era. She sacrifices her ability to function normally in favour of an extreme enhancement of her personal image. She may be rendered almost helpless on a physical level by her towering footwear, but the rewards she gains from her boosted charisma and status give her the power to control the paid minions on whom she depends for support - both figuratively and in some extreme cases, literally. Female fans emulate her and male admirers desire her. Her daringly high heels are an integral part of her image as a performer. She is fully aware that, without them, she would be a lesser divinity. The unenlightened (and perhaps envious) onlooker may choose to ridicule any woman's willingness to risk public embarrassment and inconvenience as she slowly and cautiously crosses a cobblestone-paved street in impractically high shoes. But those who approve of and understand such dedication to the wearing of high heels, even in difficult circumstances, find these little events inspirational and almost feel like applauding the performance - for that is exactly what it is. The Inadvertent Bondage of Elegance We have become accustomed to seeing women dressed to the maximum for an evening or formal occasion. They often have a little difficulty coping with the extreme height of their fabulous heels. We once coined a description for this - "the inadvertent bondage of elegance". It's a phrase which describes items of women's apparel which, common sense tells us, are obviously in some way difficult to wear or restricting, but which popular taste finds perfectly acceptable and a sign of being well dressed. High heels are the obvious example but the world of fashion offers us many others. Over the years, possibly ever since Eve fled from the Garden and covered herself with something no doubt entirely inappropriate, there have been so many little fashion details and trends adopted by women which complicate their lives in some way. Frustratingly for the wearer, these seem to be the very things which are found to be interesting and attractive. At this point there are two choices - either you refuse to play, or you agree to abide by the rules of what can be a very enjoyable and mutually entertaining game. Vivienne Westwood has said, when justifying a particularly challenging new creation, it's essential to wear clothes and accessories which require conscious attention and exercise the mind. It's also good to see this in action. It's wonderful to see a group of stunningly dressed women making their way carefully and precariously along the street. These ladies enjoying a night out in their highest heels, tightest skirts etc. may outwardly be giggling at themselves and at each other for their apparent lack of common sense, but they are fully aware why they perform this ritual - because it feels good, looks good and sets them apart from the safely-dressed majority. Embracing a little risk in their lives puts them at the centre of attention and firmly in control. Of course, not everyone will agree. The sight of women teetering delicately and almost helplessly on their highest platform-sole heels across an unexpectedly awkward bit of urban terrain is currently a familiar one. Many love to see this, but it's a controversial sight which will have just as many votes in favour as votes against. Men tend to be fascinated, aroused and tempted by the way women in high heels perpetually oscillate beteen "Femme Fatale" and "Damsel-in-Distress".