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Beyond Dunnottar, the coast sweeps onwards towards the border with Angus, 2 dotted with old fishing villages and harbours such as Gourdon and Johnshaven. The grand finale to the coastline is the vast sandy 3 beach below St Cyrus – the perfect spot to relax or explore the National Nature The coastline stretches away to the south Reserve and remains of the salmon of with craggy cliffs leading to netting industry. the town of . Aberdeenshire is Stretching inland towards the Mounth famed for its castles, but for spectacle none hills is the fertile Howe of Mearns, where can rival Dunnottar, a massive fortress on a rich farmland is fringed by gentle rolling plug of rock surrounded by the crashing hills. The harshness of rural life here in the waves – accessed only by a thin ribbon of early 1900s was immortalised in the works rock joining it to the main cliff. The of Lewis Grassic Gibbon, and agriculture whirling seabirds get the best view, but remains important today. Beyond the even from land Dunnottar is breathtaking forested foothills, the massive granite tor enough to have become an icon of on Clachnaben, on the very fringe of the and a great focal point to a walk vast empty space of the Mounth Plateau, is from the town. an ever- popular objective for walkers. 24  Stonehaven and the Mearns 1 Stonehaven to Dunnottar Castle 26 3 St Cyrus beach and cliff circuit 30 Stride out along the clifftops to Stroll across the perfect sands to the stunning remains of a medieval visit the old salmon bothies and fortress, steeped in Scottish history an atmospheric graveyard

2 Inverbervie to Johnshaven 28 4 Drumtochty forest trail 32 Boats, nets, oilskins and wellies are An enchanting church guards this still very much in evidence on this hidden glen deep amongst the trees saunter between old fishing villages 5 Clachnaben 34 Test your head for heights on the granite outcrop atop this landmark hill

25 5 STONEHAVEN AND THE MEARNS

Clachnaben Distance 9km Time 3 hours reaching open ground, go straight on to Terrain tracks, then excellent hill path, cross a track and follow the route some boggy sections Maps OS Explorer alongside the stone wall ahead. Slightly 395 and 396 Access no public transport alarmingly for a hill walk, the start is mostly downhill. The spectacular granite tor at the top of Climb the stile beside a gate and Clachnaben makes it one of the most continue down to the bottom of the glen, distinctive landmarks in the region. where the track crosses a bridge. Take the A closer acquaintance doesn’t disappoint, right fork on the far side to follow the track as in clear weather this fine hill offers which heads up through Miller’s Bog, superb 360-degree views. staying on the main route when smaller What was once an eroded scar caused by tracks branch off. At a clear fork, keep right the popularity of this prominent hill has to continue along the glen floor, crossing now been repaired, thanks to the work of footbridges over several small burns. The the Clachnaben Path Trust. The route massive tor on top of Clachnaben – begins from the forest car park situated in actually a granite plug, the remains from a an old quarry 750m north of the Bridge of long-extinct volcano – can be clearly seen Dye on the Cairn o’Mount road between ahead. From here, it is easy to see how it and . Follow the path got its name from the Gaelic Clach na as it heads southwest, running almost Beinne, ‘the Stone on the Hill’. At a gate and parallel to the road at first, and then stile, a stone cairn records the latest phase continuing through the forestry. On of footpath improvements. The path keeps 34 CLACHNABEN

Heading for Clachnaben mainly to the left edge of the trees above There are a number of possible variants on the fast-flowing Mill Burn. the descent, though none with as good a At the top of the plantation, the terrain view as the outward route and the local changes to moorland. The path climbs up a Trust recommends retracing your ascent section of pitched stone steps, aiming well to avoid undue erosion. to the right of Clachnaben and overlooking If heading for Clachnaben in April, you the steep-sided Slack of Dye. The great size may well find yourself amidst runners of the tor can be appreciated on the final taking part in the annual hill race. The stretch of the approach, and you may well gruelling 16km circuit takes in nearby see climbers attempting the many climbing Mount Shade and Threestane Hill and and bouldering routes on its front face. there is often snow still lying on the However, the path passes to the right to heathery ground to provide a further reach the gentler side of the tor. Reaching impediment to those aiming to beat the the very top requires a scramble, though present record finishing time of just under great care is needed as the summit is tiny one hour and 15 minutes. and surrounded by significant drops. The superb summit view takes in much of Aberdeenshire, including Mither Tap on to the north, as well as Mount Battock and to the west.

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