Boot Book the Looks We Love

TRENDS, PERSPECTIVE & ANALYSIS • FEBRUARY 2020 • A FORMULA4 MEDIA PUBLICATION

BOOT BOOK THE LOOKS WE LOVE

The Smartest Shakeups Retailers are Making in 2020 Run for It: The Hottest Styles and Coolest Tech Explained . 1.800.326.7564 Dansko LLC. All Rights LLC. Reserved. Dansko Dansko, Dansko and the Wing Design, the Wing Design are all trademarks of Dansko, LLC. © 2019

Visit us at Atlanta booth numbers #1437-1439, 1536-1538, Main Hall, Cobb Galleria Centre. Please contact your local sales representative to preview our Fall 2020 Collection. ® FOOTWEAR INSIGHT footwearinsight.com

Editorial Director Cara Griffin

Editor-in-Chief THE BOOT BOOK Jennifer Ernst Beaudry From fashion to Senior Editor work and tactical Bob McGee to rain and outdoor Contributors Nancy Ruhling boots. Check out the Suzanne Blecher trendsetting boot Publisher styles for Fall 2020. Jeff Nott [email protected] PAGE 26 516-305-4711

Advertising Katie O’Donohue [email protected] 828-244-3043

Sam Selvaggio [email protected] 212-398-5021

Ron Stern [email protected] 2020 • FEBRUARY ANALYSIS PERSPECTIVE & TRENDS, 201-774-2432

Art Director Francis Klaess

Production / Digital Brandon Christie 516-305-4710 [email protected]

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Footwear Insight® is a registered trademark of Formula4 Media, LLC. ©2020 All rights reserved. The opinions expressed by authors and contributors to Footwear Insight are not necessarily those of the editors or publishers. Footwear Insight is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork. Articles appearing in Footwear Insight 06 16 20 22 48 50 may not be reproduced in whole or in part without the The Footwear Eye Running Ahead Crowd Source Trend Insight Feetured Players Lines We Like express permission of the publisher. Footwear Insight New campaigns, Specialty run retailers Retailers tell us the In our latest survey Feetures is expanding These three celeb + is published 10 times in 2020: Jan; Feb; Mar/Apr; new products, new offer their take on strategies they are consumers tell us its sock story in the brand campaigns May; Jun; Jul; Aug; Sep/Oct; Nov; Dec. plans and the latest 2020’s big issues. implementing in order what kind of boots independent shoe have us tuned in to updates from around Plus, we spotlight hot to “shake things up” they buy and where store channel in a see what’s next. Postmaster: Send address changes the footwear industry. new running footwear. in their stores they buy them. significant way. to Footwear Insight, P.O. Box 23-1318 Great Neck, NY 11023 Cover Photo: Naot Nefasi. Above: Quoddy Chukka RL. Photos by Frank James. TIME OUT | JENNIFER ERNST BEAUDRY Start It Up

Hello. Hi. Welcome. How are you? How has your 2020 been in these early days? I’m starting this column the same way I’ve started dozens of emails and calls in the past few weeks. You may have been having these conversations a lot over the past month, too, as friends and colleagues catch up from holidays, make show appointments, and call with news for a new year. I like this ritual. It’s lovely to reaffirm friendships and connections, it’s fun to hear about what people have been up to, and it’s necessary if you want to have any show appointments. And for me, it’s enlightening — truly — to be in conversation with people as they’re plotting out the year to come. Sales strategies, marketing plans, staff initiatives, new launches — it’s a fascinating window into the beginnings of plans that will blossom throughout the year. And this year was no different. Boot brands from all categories showed us the trend-right, feature-packed styles that will make waves come fall. Check them out on page 26: Your next best-selling look might be waiting. Some of the most illuminating conversations I had this year ended up in Crowd Source on page 20, where shop owners from all channels shared some of the new things they’re planning for this year. I was inspired. I think you might be, too. Trying something new feels like the right thing to do right now, doesn’t it? We’re not immune, either. As we hope you saw, last month we published our first Footwear Insight | Sports Edition issue, and we’re already planning the next one. You’ll see several more issues from us this year that put the focus on the ultra-important athletic and active lifestyle category, and we’re so excited to give it the attention it deserves. (Which isn’t to say it’s restricted just to our Sports Edition issues — check out what’s hot in running now and hear from running retailers on page 16.) Added to that, our Footwear Insight Extra newsletter is now publishing every Wednesday, and we’ve got a few more ideas we’re working on for future reveals — stay tuned. It’s exciting to see the beginnings of things, but its even better to see them come to fruition, and we’re so looking forward to watching all of this planning and prediction come to life. So here’s to bringing all these plans to life; we’re looking forward to seeing what transformations you’ve got up your sleeves, too.

4 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com TRAQ SS20 AD FI 011420 R1.indd 1 1/14/20 5:17 PM THE FOOTWEAR EYE

MARKETING PARTNERSHIP Oofos Launches “Don’t Take Sanuk Turns Up the Volume Our Word For It” Campaign anuk’s partnership with legendary music producer Rick Rubin is all about the Aum. Coming in two color Oofos sees an opportunity ways and made with vegan, for growth in the comfort responsibility sourced independent and broader materials, the men’s slip- comfort and family channels. Son versions of the Sidewalk Surfer style are currently available exclusively on Sanuk’s website. In both a white and blanket print inspired by Rubin’s time in Hawaii and love of nature, the $70 Vagabond x Rick Rubin feature 100 percent cotton uppers, midsoles made with recycled PLUSfoam and have faux crepe rubber outsoles.

ofos is targeting new “Our biggest issue is brand awareness,” accounts in 2020, he said. “The advocacy people have for and has launched its our product and brand is pretty amazing; broadest and largest We have a net promoter score in the 90s, ever ad campaign to and our average customer owns 3.3 pairs. grow the business. But last time we did research, our brand Oofos President awareness was less than 3 percent. We’ve OSteve Gallo said the Braintree, MA-based grown 68 percent over the last 5, 6 years, brand wants to build on its strength in the but without that awareness, we can’t really outdoor and run specialty markets, and sees scale it.” an opportunity in the comfort independent Gallo said the campaign is the largest and broader comfort and family channels. in Oofos’ history — an investment four In addition to accounts like Harry’s Shoes times as large as any previous ad spend. in New York and Dardano’s in Denver, he Called “Don’t Take Our Word for It,” it said, Oofos is now in Scheels, all doors of will use the testimonials of loyal brand REI, and is testing with DSW. fans and highlight key styles including the OOmg closed-toe style (pictured above) and OOhlala thong sandal (at left). Gallo said the aim was to showcase the brand’s styles to fitness-oriented 28- to 35-year-old urban women, as well as a broader group of consumers seeking comfort or relief from foot ailments by highlighting the brand’s proprietary Oofoam. The campaign debuted in late January, and will run through 2020, Growing brand on social media, on YouTube and with display ads. Oofos will also be deploying awareness will be key campaign POS material in more than 350 partner doors and will provide digital assets to plans to expand in Sanuk is partnering with legendary to retail accounts, and will be testing TV music producer Rick Rubin on Aum, a independent channel. as well. —Jennifer Ernst Beaudry new collection of men’s footwear.

6 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com b e r n i e m e v. n e w y o r k

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U.S. MANUFACTURING SneakERASERS Aims to Darn Tough Growth Clean Up with New Product Continues into into 2020

Keeping kicks fresh and clean is priority No. 1 for sneakerheads, making sneaker cleaning products a hot category. A new, mini sponge-like product called SneakERASERS is designed to remove scuff marks, grime, and smudges from soles and rubber logos without the need for messy applicators, brushes, or sprays. SneakERASERS is a combo of a sponge and shammy and features an all-natural cleaning formula. When water is added to it, one side of the sponge works on smooth uppers and logos, while the other side, an orange shammy, wipes away residue. When the sponge dries it can be re- used by adding more water to reactivate it. MSRP $9.49 (for a 3-pack).

ReCoup’s Cool New Sleeve Uses BOA

ock maker Darn Tough Renovations will start in February to Vermont, based in create an additional 17,000 square feet of Northfield, VT, is office space in the facility, with manufactur- adding a new a new ing starting in Waterbury later in 2020. The 50,000-square-foot manu- company’s headquarters and existing sock The first cold compression product to use facturing facility to its factory will stay in Northfield. Darn Tough Boa’s patented micro-adjustable fit system, production next year, recently spent $2.5 million updating the Recoup’s Cryosleeve combines ice and Sand expects to have 100 people working 100-year-old Nantanna Building to increase compression for up to one hour of cold relief at the new Waterbury, VT site in 2021. the company’s space for manufacturing for optimal recovery. The Boa Fit System helps The leased space is part of an ambitious and internet fulfillment in Northfield. the product offer a precise and custom fit. five-year growth plan for Cabot Hosiery “We’re doing this to fund our growth, Suitable for use on injuries such as carpal Mill, Darn Tough’s parent company. In an but it’s also for the long term,” Cabot was interview with the local press, CEO Ric quoted as saying. “It’s for the prosper- tunnel, shin splints, golfer’s elbow, knee Cabot said the company expects to sell ity and job security of the people who injuries, etc. Available in five sizes (XS-XL). 8 million pairs of socks in 2020. have been with us all these years.” l MSRP $89.99.

8 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com SIT. FIT. AND BE RECOGNIZED.

The in-store experience. The expertise, the fit, the selection and the personal touch is what gives footwear independents their greatest advantage. We see it. Consumers see it. And so do the brands. No computer or mobile shopping experience can match a knowledgeable associate who can recommend the perfect shoe, and close the transaction with a smile.

6TH ANNUAL

Nominate a store you love or your own store for 2020. AUGUST 2020 Email us at [email protected] with a short description if you would like us to consider your store.

Nominations are open to all independently owned shoe stores.

Footwear Insight’s mystery shopping evaluations will begin Spring 2020.

For more information and criteria: footwearinsight.com/goldmedal THE FOOTWEAR EYE

RETAIL EXEC MOVES Boot Barn Banks on Timberland President Own Brands, Looks Jim Pisani Steps Down im Pisani has resigned his position as global to Further Openings brand president at Stratham, NH-based Timberland to be closerJ to his family in the Midwest, Timberland parent company VF Corp. announced. Pisani had held the top spot at Timberland since 2016. VF Group President of EMEA Martino Scabbia Guerrini will serve as acting global brand president to guide us into the future. We as a search for a new president understand and support Jim’s is conducted. decision, and are grateful for his “Jim is an extremely talented service. We are firmly commit- leader who has left an indel- ted to find the right person for ible mark on the Timberland this role – someone who brings brand and VF overall during his deep industry experience and time here,” Scabbia Guerrini embodies Timberland’s culture said in a statement. “Today and commitment to social and we have a strong foundation environmental responsibility,” he and leadership team in place said. — Jennifer Ernst Beaudry News and Notes Nelsonville, OH-based Rocky CA-based company attributed the Brands said its largest retail busi- improved results to its strategic deci- ness, Lehigh, is involved with building sion related to pricing and promotions custom websites for employers to during the holiday season. For FY19, Boot Barn’s own brands account for more than 20 percent of its total revenue. offer only the boot styles that meet the chain generated a 1.2 percent its particular specifications. The web- comparable stores sales increase and rvine, CA-based Boot Barn will put locations in Pennsylvania, sites offer third-party brands beyond realized 66 basis point improvement Ohio and Arkansas as part of its plan to double its store Lehigh, including Reebok Timberland in merchandise margins. count to 500, Boot Barn President Jim Conroy told attend- Pro, Ariat, Keen and Justin. For the ees at the ICR Conference in Orlando last month. Rocky brand, the company is aiming Genesco, parent company of Conroy said that the firm’s own brands currently account to broaden the label’s appeal to reach Journeys, generated 2 percent for more than 20 percent of its total revenue, to the tune more grassroots outdoor customers, comparable sales (stores and direct) of $175 to $200 million. The six-label roster includes Moon who typically wear the Patagonia and growth in Q4 through Jan. 9. Mimi Shine, endorsed by country star Brad Paisley, and Idyllwind, The North Face brands. Vaughn, who is set to become I president and CEO of the Nashville pitched by Miranda Lambert. Boot Barn’s Cody James work label Big 5 Sporting Goods, in announc- company on Feb. 2, said Genesco’s is now pegged as a $100 million business, with the Shyanne label ing a 0.6 percent same store sales online investments paid off during the hauling in an estimated $50 million in annual revenues. decrease for Q4 ended Dec. 29, holiday period as digital accounted Brown, distressed leather boots are the best sellers at Boot 2019, said year-over-year merchan- for 21 percent of Q4 revenues. The Barn, which generates 52 percent of revenues from footwear and dise margins rose 239 basis points Journeys Group, which is eying a 17 percent of sales from e-commerce and expects to approach a and footwear category sales rose in “handful” of fill-in stores and sees 10 percent operating margin in its next fiscal year. The chain oper- the low-single digit range. Fueled by some opportunities ahead for the ates three online businesses: Boot Barn, Country Outfitters and demand for seasonal winter products, Journeys Kidz franchise, will likely Sheplers, which Conroy said will be retooled in hopes of expanding apparel comps increase in the mid- hit an 8.0 percent operating margin beyond the “bargain basement” customer. — Bob McGee single digits range. The El Segundo, for FY19. l

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EARNINGS Nike’s 2020: Digital, Running and Converse

hen Nike reported its experience of finding a product and how full-price sell-throughs, more efficient second-quarter earn- it is delivered. RFID investments will allow markdowns and fewer days in inventory ings in December, the Nike customers to track down a product in for all products. Beaverton, OR-based the same store, online or even at another firm outlined the stra- retail partner of the brand. New CEO John 3. North America is Stable Wtegic priorities it was pursuing in 2020. Donahoe should keep the company’s digital The Swoosh’s home market wasn’t as Here were our takeaways. motivation humming. strong as other global regions in Q3, but still respectable with 8 percent growth in 1. The Line Online and In-Store Blurs Further 2. Technological Investment footwear to more than $2.4 billion and a 5 Digital commerce sales grew 38 percent Only Accelerates percent overall topline increase. during period, fueled in part by 70+ percent Recent acquisitions of Celect and Zodiac growth in North America on Black Friday. will help Nike worldwide to predict the 4. Running Will Draw Attention Nike+ added three million members in proper supply of products down to style, Both performance and lifestyle will receive Q2. The company says it’s changing the color and size, and generate stronger more attention in 2020, particularly with the Tokyo Olympics from July 24-Aug. 9, with new sportswear products introduced ahead of the global event, including a new Zoom Air running

Both performance and lifestyle will receive more attention in 2020, particularly with the Tokyo Olympics.

platform. Nike is also promising to deliver more “core pricepoint” running silhouettes this year, including the Renew concept, new styles under the Air Max platform and more unique women’s styles.

5. Converse Worldwide The Converse brand’s sales grew 15 percent in Q2 to $480 million, driven by double-digit expansion in Europe and Asia. Nike is promising to differentiate the brand’s product line beyond the Chuck by creating new opportunities in basketball, possibly running and apparel. — Bob McGee

12 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com THE FOOTWEAR EYE

C-SUITE Executive Moves at Twisted X, Minnetonka

ecatur, TX-based recently the brand’s VP of Rusty Hall is back at Mephisto. footwear brand Business Development, would Hall, who served as president Twisted X named take over as president. Miller and CEO between 2010 and 2015, Scott Sessa Sherer joined Minnetonka will be returning to the role at SVP of Business in 2010. As president, she the Franklin, TN-based firm. DDevelopment. Sessa served as will oversee global sales and He most recently served as president of Minnetonka Moccasin marketing. She is the fourth executive director of sales for for 13 years, where he was the first Scott Sessa generation of the Miller family Hush Puppies North America. outside president in the family- to hold the president’s office “We are excited to have run business’ history. In his new of the 74-year-old firm. “[Jori] Rusty return to lead our U.S. role, Sessa will be responsible for has a deep knowledge and operations. His proven ability creating and maintaining growth understanding of its heritage at delivering results along across the Twisted X, Black Star, propel our international expan- and what Minnetonka means with his expert leadership, Tamarindo and CellSole brands. “I sion as well as accelerate our to consumers. She is able to product development, brand have known Scott for most of his domestic growth, and Scott was look to the brand’s future in management and operational adult life and have seen him prog- ready for his next opportunity,” an entirely new way that will skills will be extremely ress from a management trainee at Twisted X CEO Prasad Reddy ensure Minnetonka contin- valuable as we take Mephisto Wolverine Worldwide to becom- said in a statement. ues to grow and thrive for into the next decade,” ing president of Minnetonka. the next generation,” David Frank Weber, president of The timing was perfect. We were Minnetonka announced Miller, CEO of Minnetonka, Mephisto worldwide, said in in need of a leader that could that Jori Miller Sherer, most said in a statement. a statement. l

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TECHNOLOGY How Materials Factor into Nike’s Much Talked About Vaporfly Franchise. The Science of Speed By Jennifer Ernst Beaudry

ast year closed with two unheard of — Reebok’s FloatRide cushioning vessels — a shoe design that could absorb eye-popping feats in the using foamed Pebax debuted last year. In the significantly more of that input would make running world. On Oct. 12, AlphaFly and Next% styles, the material makes a measurable impact on muscle fatigue. And Eliud Kipchoge broke the up the super-thick, rocker-shaped midsole. the sandwich construction of the shoe mid- two-hour marathon barrier, sole could act much like a soundproof wall it long thought an impossible Why do they work? resembles, dampening vibration and giving feat, with a time of 1:59:40 The carbon plate in the midsole acts as a the runner the extra energy, tests show. Lduring a specially tailored event in Vienna, lever, which improves the ankle mechanics Austria. On Oct. 13, Brigid Kosegi obliterated of the runner and puts less load on their Can anyone see time drops using the the 16-year women’s marathon record by calves. The foam is the biggest contributor: same technology? more than a minute, finishing the Chicago the Pebax material itself is characteristically Probably not. “I think what most people Marathon with a time of 2:14.04 and setting springy, and in the thickness of the shoes it are thinking is that these shoes are best a new world record. creates what Bartold calls “extraordinary” exploited by the very best elite runners,” The common thread in both wins — and a energy return. “Obviously, [the first shoe] he said. “Only the fastest athletes — elites topic of fierce debate since — was the latest and competitive runners, and possibly even iterations of Nike’s new racing franchise. very fast recreational runners — will be able Launched in 2017, The Nike Vaporfly 4% to activate both the foam and the plate to shoes were specifically created with the their full advantage. For a weekend warrior, mission of improving running economy the benefit is probably quite questionable.” by four percent — enough to make a difference in an elite marathon pace of a few What will this do to the running shoe minutes, or possibly enough to drop a run- market? ner’s time from world-record pace (at the It’s complicated. A decision is expected time, 2:02.57) to under 2 hours. The shoes early this year from sport governing body have been refined since their debut: the World Athletics (formerly known as the $250 Nike ZoomX Vaporfly NEXT% is out International Association of Athletics now, and a version of Kipchoge’s race-day Federation) as to whether the technology version, the AlphaFly, is anticipated. used in the Vaporfly shoes is permissible To find out what’s inside the shoes that in competition, i.e., whether or not they have everyone talking, we went to an expert. give an unfair advantage to wearers of the Simon Bartold is a podiatrist, biomechan- shoes over athletes not wearing them. But ics expert and CEO of Bartold Clinical, an no matter which way the ruling goes, it’s educational resource for podiatrists, physio- almost a moot point, he said. therapists and sports medicine professionals. “That shoe was already obsolete the Bartold has spent his career investigating day he broke the record,” Bartold asserts. the relationship between shoes and feet, and Nike ZoomX Vaporfly Next% “Newer, more sophisticated models are has held positions in the industry including certainly in the pipeline, and I have no doubt director of strategic planning for Salomon and was called 4% because the suggestion was at all that in 18 months to two years, there more than a decade as international research that it would offer a four percent advantage will be other product to test the boundaries consultant for Asics. Here’s what he had to in economy, that you would extend four of legality. I think the genius of what Nike’s say about materials, the science of getting percent less energy in it. And when that done is they’ve enacted an absolutely bril- faster, and the “arms race” he sees coming: came out, a lot of people said, oh, it’s just liant marketing plan. There’s never been a marketing. But to date, all the studies have shoe where the manufacturer says it will What makes the shoes different? shown at least a four percent advantage, make you faster and then the research Bartold highlights two technologies: carbon and some as much as six percent,” he said. supports it.” fiber plates (The Next% shoe has one; the The shoe has certainly kicked off what AlphaFly prototype has three), and sur- How does the material return energy? Bartold calls an arms race as other major rounding them, ultra-thick layers of Pebax Bartold thinks it comes down to vibration. brands are rumored to have their own new foam. Pebax, a thermoplastic elastomer, is He explains that a major cause of muscle technologies debuting in 2020 in the run-up no stranger to footwear, and is frequently fatigue is in absorbing and attenuating the to the Olympics. “In the last 10 years, it’s found in a more rigid form in soccer boots vibrations that pounding the pavement send been a complete innovation vacuum in run- or as a plate in hiking product. The foam ver- through the body. Vibration puts stress on ning footwear,” he said. “I’m really intrigued sion of the material is less common but not bones, tendons, muscles, nerves and blood to see what comes next.” l

14 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com National Shoe Retailers Association America’s Largest Organization Representing Independent Footwear Retailers

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FI NSRA Membership JanFeb 2020 011320.indd 1 1/13/2020 10:25:53 AM RUNNING FULL SPEED AHEAD By Cara Griffin and lot of opportunity for us to educate other events loom over us and Jennifer Ernst Beaudry and cater to those customers.” could affect our business. The big- Brad Brown, Complete Runner, Flint, MI gest opportunity will be how we un shops have a lot react to the challenges ahead.” to look forward to in n “I think the biggest challenge Mark Jimenez, Red Rock Running 2020. A surge of fresh for Playmakers in 2020 is how we Company, Las Vegas, NV technical product, the curate the best products for our R n summer’s Olympic and Paralympic customers. I believe there is too “Who ever would have antici- Games in Tokyo catalyzing con- much product in the pipeline, too pated the collapse of the Brooks sumer interest, and product growth many vendors producing good, distribution system and the at the premium side of the shoe and in some cases, great prod- downward pressure that put on market are all opportunities for uct. Our buyers have many great availability of shoes from many growth and connection. buffet offerings — but they can’t manufactures? But it also created But like most independents, run overeat! We need to pick the best an opportunity to move out older shops see hurdles ahead. Pricing products for our customers and product and pull shoes our staff uncertainty, product shortages and say no to more products to make may not have normally pulled. competition for key styles, and a con- things less confusing for them.” We are most excited about the sumer always willing to look online John Benedict, Playmakers, many new shoes manufacturers for a better deal are vexing issues. Okemos, MI are bringing to market [with] With that in mind, we asked run- carbon fiber plates and new cush- ning shop owners across the country n “I foresee continued product ioning systems. The community to share what they’re thinking about shortages from some brands. As aspect of running continues to for 2020. Here, they sound off on the product improves, I think every- grow, and we find our fun runs biggest challenges they’re seeing one will be chasing sales, creating continue to attract more people, for 2020 — and yes, the biggest a shortage of product. Ultimately, bonding runners together.” opportunities they’re aiming for. I think this is a good thing and Jeff Anderson, Kelley’s becomes an opportunity. I’d love Pace, Mystic, CT n “I feel the biggest challenge is one to introduce customers to new that continues to change the way products or brands and challenge n “The biggest challenge will always small retailers do business and that them to try something they may not be the online purchasing. People is e-commerce and online shop- have otherwise been exposed to. compare what’s in front of them ping. Customers are becoming so I’m having talks with more brands at the store to what is online and accustomed to instant gratification about creating a stronger omni- want price matching. We, of course, by ordering product with no risk channel between dealer and brands. do our best to accommodate, if it’s and at a significant discount that We know a lot of research is done the same product — the biggest we have to continually evaluate online before a purchase is made in opportunity is provide the best how to keep customers coming in store. We’re having conversations customer service to keep that cus- our doors, rather than shopping beyond the current Locally options, tomer coming back for life. Being from their computers and phones. to bridge the gap between the one-on-one with a customer can Brands are doing a better job to brands dot-com and the brick-and- provide some of the best conversa- protect us retail partners, but they mortar experience: think in-store tions and learning for us and the have a long way to go. The biggest Run shop exchanges and sharing customer customer. The customers drive our opportunity is the cross train- owners share databases to drive traffic to events.” business and we love to go over ing market. I am always amazed their biggest Justin Craig, RUNdetroit, Detroit, MI the top for each one and to make by how many people participate challenges, them feel like they are walking into in CrossFit, Orange Theory, and and greatest n “The biggest challenge will be a very welcoming atmosphere.” HIIT and are naive about good opportunities, how we continue to grow in uncer- Mike Shuman, Idaho Running shoes and gear. I think there is a for 2020. tain economic times. Tariffs and Company, Boise, ID l

16 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com New for Fall 2020, the Reebok Forever Floatride Grow is a plant-based running shoe with a cushioned, responsive midsole that is built from sustainably grown castor beans. The shoe maintains the performance and lightweight cushioning standard of the original Forever Floatride Energy, according to the brand. And its eucalyptus tree upper is naturally biodegradable, sustainably sourced, strong and breathable. (Turn the page to see more new 2020 running footwear styles.) NEW FOR 2020 RUNNING

The official training shoe of Edward Cheserek, the $120 Skechers GOrun The new Bedlam 3 from Brooks, $150, combines energy and springiness Ride 8 Hyper features Skechers Hyper Burst cushioning – the brand’s most and its new DNA AMP cushioning is 20 percent lighter than its predecessor. resilient midsole foam to date. It also has a Goodyear performance rubber outsole for durability and traction, plus a breathable, engineered knit upper that stretches to move with the foot. Hoka One One’s Rincon 2, $115, has a full compression EVA midsole that provides the cushioning Hoka is known for. A slim tongue package reduces weight and an engineered sandwich mesh upper offers breathability. A heel pull tab ensures easy entry.

Salomon’s Predict 2 shoe for Fall 2020 is the second iteration of a road running favorite from the brand. The new edition builds upon the first, combining the knee-saving mirrored decoupling on the outsole with new Infiniride foam for a comfortable, flexible and dynamic ride.

Saucony is focused on speed with its new Endorphin collection for Fall 2020. The three road shoes in the line include the Endorphin Pro (far right) for race day performance; the Endorphin Speed (middle) for up-tempo runs and speedwork; and the Endorphin Shift (far left) for everything in-between. Featuring SpeedRoll, the brand’s proprietary always-forward outsole geometry, each shoe is designed to deliver a fast and easy propulsive ride.

18 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com T AIN? A CHILLES VEMENDV ®PER IN A O TENDONITI ON? URE AR F NI HYPER- CTI SS ?KNEE P U STRIN TIONO IMPROTE AIN B TELLAR LEG CRAMPS? P PLANTCH NKLE PA ? PA SITIVITY CIRCULA S? AR ?A TENDONITIS?S? ? HAMEN STER PR HEEL IITI SOCKSAIN WITH AIN S BLI FORM UNDER PRESC ?P N P ITB PER AIN? A IN ACHILLESO G? ® TENDONITI HYPER- AR F NI ? TION IMPROTEC KNEE P U STRIN ? LEG CRAMPS?O B E ? TELLAR SITIVITYGU ? CIRCULATER PR S?PLANTRCH NKLETENDONITIS? PA ?PA HAM FATI S RM UNDER PRE A ?A S ? SEN T? BLI O PAIN AIN ITB VEMENDVT ® PERF AIN? ? CHILLES N P G? ON? URE AR F A O TENDONITI ?HYPER- CTI SS ?KNEE P UNI TRIN LEG CRAMPS?TIONO IMPROTE PAIN B S E? S?PLANTRCH NKLE ? TELLAR SITIVITYGU ? CIRCULASTER™ PR HEEL A ?A TENDONITIS?S?PA HAMEN FATI BLI ORM UNDER PRE IITI PAIN WPWellness? S PerformanceT4? Socks AIN? SC ? ITB VEMENDVT ®PERF A IN ACHILLESO G? ON? URE AR F NI TENDONITI ?HYPER- CTI SS ?KNEE P U TRIN LEG CRAMPS?TIONO IMPROTE AIN ? B TELLAR E? P PLANTRCH NKLETENDONITIS? PA ?PA HAM ITIVITYGU ? CIRCULATER PR S? A ?A S ? TI T S RM UNDERHEEL PRE IITI PAIN AIN ITB T? BLI O AIN? SCOS1st® refreshes? CHILLES the traditionalN P sock VEMENDV ® PERF A IN A O TENDONITIG??HYPER- N? URE AR F market with a functionalNI approach.TRIN SS ?KNEE P U S E? LEG CRAMPS? AIN OS1st® WP4™ WellnessB PerformanceTELLAR Socks are the latestITIVITY innovationGU in our SocksCIRCULA P PLANT with Purpose® Program.? PA The WP4s are strategically designedS forTI individuals who? STER PR S? RCH NKLETENDONITIS? PA ? ? HAMEN FA BLI HEEL A ?A sufferAIN from diabetes,S sensitive feet and poorS circulation. The VEMENWP4s featureTT light? F RM UNDER PRE IITI PAIN to moderate compressionITB to improve circulation and Nano-BambooDV Charcoal® PER SC ? N Pthat has been proven to help maintain healthy feet and skin.ON? Our seamlessURE IN ACHILLESO G? HYPER- CTI SS ?KNEE P NI TENDONITItechnology featuring non-binding? comfortTION is the perfectO IMPROTE accessory for yourAIN feet. U STheTRIN mid-foot arch support? LEG structure CRAMPS? allows your feet the additional P stability PLANT B needed to keep movingE and stay moving longer. S? R ? TELLAR SITIVITYGU ? CIRCULASTER PR HEEL A NKLETENDONITIS? PA S?PA ? HAMEN FATI BLI ORM UNDER PRE IITI PAIN AIN S Targeted Conditions:VEMENTT? AIN? ASC ? ITB • Diabetes DV ®PERF IN A N P G? ON? URE AR F TENDONITI ?HYPER- • CirculationCTI SupportSS ?KNEE P TRIN TIONO• IMPRO TESensitive Feet AIN ? B S E? LEG CRAMPS?• Edema P PLANTRCH NKLEVENDOR PA OF ? ITIVITYGU CIRCULA • Neuropathy S? A ?A TENDONITIS?THE YEAR S S TI ? STER PR HEEL AIN AIN HAMEN OS1st®FA and Revere Shoes BLIInc. team ORM UNDER PRE IITI P up to launch a new TGWP? program! SC ? N P VEMENDVT ® PERF AIN? A IN ACHILLESO G? N? URE NI TENDONITI TIO SS KNEE P AR F Now Available!U TRIN AnotherC ? S TIONO IMPROTE AIN B TELLAR ITIVITYGU LEG CRAMPS? P PLANTCH NKLE PA ? PA HAM S TI TER PR S? AR ?A TENDONITIS?S? ? SEN FA HEEL IITI AIN ™ VEMEN RM UNDER PRESC ? PAIN ITB 5 DV AIN? A CHILLES N P G?TSTravel Socks ON? IN A™ O TENDONITI ?HYPER- CTI SS AR F PA 4 NI TIONO IMPROTE KNEE P TAThin Air Performance Socks U STRIN ? LEG CRAMPS? P B TELLAR ITIVITYE CIRCULA PLANT ? GU WHITETERCHARCOAL PR HEEL S ? NATURAL S ANKLETENDONITIS? S?PA ? HAMEN FATI BLACK NAVY BLI ORM UNDER PRE IITI LIGHT PINK LAVENDER SC AINAQUA S ? STEEL BLUE AIN? GREY T A WHITE VEMENT PERF BLACK ITB DV ® CHILLES N P G? ON? URE AR F PA O TENDONITI ?HYPER- CTI SS ?KNEE P UNI Platform TRINShow Atlanta Shoe ShowTIONO IMPROTE .comAIN · 844-413-5457 Booth #71912S BoothE #’s? 1046,LEG 1048, CRAMPS? 1050 P PLANTCH NKLE TELLAR ITIVITYGU CIRCULA S? AR ?A TENDONITIS? HAM S TI T? STER PR HEEL IITI AIN AIN ? SEN FA ? BLI ORM UNDER PRE P Jan 2020 Full Page_Wellness.indd 1 SC ? 1/15/20 9:52 AM ITB VEMENDVT PERF AIN? A ACHILLESO N P N? ® IN NI TENDONITI HYPER- TIO SSURE ?KNEE P AR F U STRIN LEG CRAMPS?TION IMPRO B TELLAR PLANTNKLETENDONITIS? PA ? HAM CROWD SOURCE

A Change Would Do You Good What to do when the outlook is unclear? Shake things up.

By Jennifer Ernst Beaudry What’s on your ness, about staffing challenges and lines at his store have been clear: agenda for this about the long-term health of the apparel has been the only growth year? If you’re he last decade brought pursuing a new channel was top-of-mind for most area for more than three years in change in spades to strategy or trying store owners. both revenue and units. And that, independent retail. The a new tactic, let But far from feeling paralyzed, he said, calls for a new approach. relentless rise of online us know at we were struck by how energized “Historically, our industry is jbeaudry@ and mobile shopping, formula4media.com stores are to tackle changes head- accustomed to asking, ‘How do I Tmassive growth in vendor DTC and on. Faced with the unknown, shops sell off the footwear bench?’” he seismic shifts in the way shoppers across the country are planning new said. “That’s where we’ve sold PT consume media and promotions tactics, fresh approaches and inno- equipment, apparel, reflective gear have all shifted the landscape. And vative measures to shake things up, and hydration. Now we have to last year especially, new concerns double down on successes and start figure out, ‘How do we sell shoes, on tariffs and pricing, as well as chipping away at problems. Below, PT equipment, reflective gear and renewed concerns about the sus- we’ve included some (but certainly hydration out of the fitting room?’” tainability and ecological impacts not all) of the mold-breaking plans White said he will be working of product, further complicated the smart independent retailers shared with his staff on reworking the picture. with us for the year ahead. dressing room area to spark con- It’s no wonder that when we spoke versations with shoppers trying on with retailers at the dawn of 2020 Strategic Shifts clothes about other needs. Trips that the word that came up again Some shops are starting at the to regional shows in other markets and again was “uncertainty.” No very beginning, giving their selling have given him ideas on new ways matter the particular geographic strategies an overhaul for the new to look at key categories (seeing demographic or category mix of the year. performance socks as an impulse store, uncertainty about the future Adam White, owner of RC add-on buy like in outdoor instead could bring in pricing, about busi- Outfitters in Peoria, IL, said trend of an integral part of the sale like in

20 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com running, for example) that change “We stores need “We want to do a better job sup- clientele, and that our top 1 per- the buying, pricing and merchan- to work together porting that creativity, and we are cent is worth a staggering amount dising strategy for the items they to grow our budgeting for it.” of those dollars,” he said. “We want bring in. market share to create a better relationship with as a whole so “My job is to react to the trends we don’t keep Staffing Solutions those people we know already work and get the systems and processes losing sales Taking advantage of staff exper- with us.” we need to set my team up for suc- to Amazon, tise is a theme that came up again Efforts to reward loyal customers cess,” he said. discounters and and again. while bringing in new faces is top Other shops are turning the big-box stores.” “For us, when uncertainty hits of the agenda for Steven Rueda, Stephanie Blozy, whole idea of competition on its Fleet Feet Hartford — things like tariffs and the state owner of Turnpike Comfort Shoes head. of the running market — what we in Flushing, NY. Stephanie Blozy, owner of Fleet really try to do is focus on what we Rueda said that after taking a Feet Hartford in West Hartford, CT, do best, and make sure that we’re look at the numbers, he’s borrow- said she’s hosting a launch event presenting that to staff and custom- ing an idea from a fellow owner to for Brooks’ new running bra col- ers,” said Sonya Estes, owner of bring new customers into his door. lection in February — but for the Lakewood, CO’s Runners Roost. Knowing that 32 percent of his women who work at other local “Are we giving them a reason to customers — the largest share— run shops, not customers. “People come back, are we treating them come through word of mouth, he’s may think it’s weird to invite your well, are we giving them a place making referral cards to hand out ‘competitors’ to help them sell bras they can come to get education on to customers. The cards offer a $10 better, but I think we stores need to running and training?” discount for new shoppers, and work together to grow our market To do that in 2020, she said, the gives the referring customer a $25 share as a whole so we don’t keep store will be making a point of going store credit. losing sales to Amazon, discounters over customer-service expectations “I got this idea from Sue Orischak and big-box stores,” she said. with staff — and, she said, looking at Foot Solutions Scottsdale, and I to bring some of their eight part- think this is a no-brainer,” he said. Event Overhauls time workers (about half the staff) “A print ad can cost me $300 to Ross Martinson, owner of the five in more often with additional hours. $500 and maybe you get one or two Philadelphia Runner stores in and “Our customers, they like to see a new customers, if you are lucky. around Philadelphia, PA, said that familiar face, so we’re going to work Spending $35 to obtain a new cus- he was looking to expand on a solid on staff retention, and making sure tomer and rewarding the referring growth year. And one path, he said, they’re here,” she said. customer is very clever.” will be making a bigger deal of new Rueda is pairing the cards, he styles coming in store. Customer Care said, with some digital plans. “Product launches were a source Ahh Comfort Shoes in Arlington Not only will the referral cards of traffic and sales in 2019, and we Heights, IL, is planning a new pro- leave information on leaving will expand our support in both gram — kicked off with a special reviews for the store online (“get- buys and marketing,” he said. event — to reward its very best ting more reviews, and making “Consumers are so in tune with customers. sure they are 5 star reviews, is what is new and coming out. If they Owner Jeffrey Seidman says his very important,” he stressed), he’s know we have something, they are shop’s “royalty” event will reward adding outreach. “I’ve hired a digi- coming in.” its top 50 customers with a year- tal marketing firm to increase my Another tactic for the year, he long discount as well as a thank-you SEO and social media presences. added, would be leveraging his event in-store with wine, cheese, Though we have a selling website, staff’s insights into the consumer food and giveaways. my goal here is to get more custom- and what they want. “A couple of “We have found, as most people ers into the store, not necessarily to our best events last year were staff have, that we get 80 percent of our buy on my site,” he said. “Because ideas, a ‘can I do this?’” he said. business from 20 percent of our what we do best is fit.”l TRENDINSIGHT

We surveyed 302 consumers. Here is what they told us.

82% These Boots Are Made 72% What types of For Walking boots do you Consumer Insights regularly buy? on the Classic Multipurpose Style

56%

47%

39% Does your occupation require boots or safety footwear?

One thing is clear: Consumers love boots. respondents had purchased fashion boots But don’t take our word for it — this month’s in the prior year, 72 percent had bought boot survey was our most popular with cold-weather boot styles and 56 percent our consumer panel yet. We surveyed 302 had bought outdoor models. Even more active men and women from ages 18 to 60, encouraging? 53 percent of respondents said with an average age of 40, to find out what they shopped independent shoe retailers to kind of boots they buy and where they buy pick up the boots they want and need. n them. And no surprise, the hard-working category came through as a go-to silhouette The survey, conducted by MESH01, included for both work and play. Fully 82 percent of 302 respondents, male and female. YES 26% NO CARPE SEIZE THE TREND! 74% TRENDEM

Visit trendinsightmag.com for our surveys in footwear, sports, outdoor and product design.

Trend Insight Consumer is a feature within Footwear Insight that delivers research conducted on the MESH01 Platform. MESH01 collects data from a select panel of sports enthusiasts. For information on the Mesh1 Platform, contact Brian Bednarek at 603-766-0957 or [email protected]. For more information on Trend Insight Consumer and how your company can participate, contact Work Rain Hiking Cold Fashion Jeff Nott at 516-305-4711 or [email protected]. (safety) Weather

22 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com POWERED BY www.mesh01.com

Please rank the features below Do your priorities What height do you prefer for your fashion boots? in order of importance when change depending choosing what boots to buy: on what type of boot 38% you are looking for? (e.g. Weather, Fashion or Work) #1 COMFORT 84% 26% 20%

#2 INSULATION/WARMTH 8% 3% #3 DURABILITY Ankle Low Mid Mid Calf Tall Above (Chelsea cut) (shoe cut) (above the ankle/ (knee- high) the Knee hiking style cut) #4 WATERPROOF / WATERRESISTANT

What height do you prefer for your rain boots or winter boots? #5 FASHION/STYLE 45% 46%

#6 PRICE 16%

#7 NON-SLIP YES NO

Rain boots would raise my boot for the purpose I need a 4% 2% 1% waterproof and slip-proof boot for. It could be for fashion priority. Female 50 or function. Male 42 Ankle Low Mid Mid Calf Tall Above (knee- high) (Chelsea cut) (shoe cut) (above the ankle/ the Knee I don’t really care about style For a fashion boot, I’m more hiking style cut) when looking for hiking boots. price-conscious because they Female 37 don’t necessarily mean as much to me in my daily life. If I’m How many pairs of boots do you own? Yes of course. I’d choose a buying a hiking/rain/winter boot warmer boot when I’m in the I’m more inclined to splurge on market for a winter boot but a high-quality item. Male 33 51% when I am shopping for fashion boots, style comes first for I want rain boots to be me. It would be nice to have a waterproof Female 49 multipurpose boot that meets both fashion and weather needs, For fashion/winter boots I’m though. Female 32 more concerned with style and price. For work boots I’d say 25% Fashion for me is more about comfort, safety and durability style and comfort. For work it’s are my priority. Female 35 more about durability, water 17% resistance and comfort. Female 30 Weather boots I care more about function. For work boots I care I view my boots like tools in more about durability, water- 7% my toolbox. I use the right tool proof, weight. Casual boots, I for the job and I’ll buy the right care more about style. Male 27

1-2 3-5 6-10 +10

February 2020 ~ Footwear Insight • 23 footwearinsight.com POWERED BY TRENDINSIGHT www.mesh01.com

Consumer Insights on the 72% Classic Multipurpose Style (continued from previous page)

What type of stores 53% 55% do you shop in for 48% the boots that you 47% regularly buy? 38% 35%

28%

18%

Work or Online Sports Men’s or Women’s Discount / Mass Outdoor Independent Sporting Department Uniform Store Specialty Store Boutique Merchant Specialty Store Shoe Store Goods Store Store (e.g., Running, Snowsports)

Do you go into a store with a particular style of boot in mind? When shopping 49% for a pair 30% 31% 34% of boots, do you also purchase... 4%

Insoles Waterproofing Socks Traction cleats Do not buy No spray any additional products 33% If you 57% purchased additional items, did Yes you select the items... 8% 67% 2% 5%

At the suggestion At the suggestion Unique product On your own of the retail of the display at sales associate e-commerce site the store

24 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com %

% Pendleton Waterproof Torngat Trail This rain/cold weather lace-up boot pairs function and fashion seamlessly: Its rubber-traction outsole, waterproof leather and wool upper, which is in the brand’s bold Spider Rock pattern, are accented by a faux shearling collar. MSRP $140. BOOT BOOK CHAPTER 1 FASHION STYLE

FORWHETHER IT’S ANIMAL PRINTS ALLALL DAY OR COZY KNITS OR PLAID APLENTY, THERE’S A BOOT FOR EVERY MOOD THIS FALL.

There’s a reason boots are perennially a fashion must and boundaries between categories are blurred, we for fall — there’s one for every taste, as these Fall get more creative with our design and more intelli- 2020 styles show. Looking for casual cool? Uptown gent about our market.” Making styles that perform style? Sneaker feel? Check, check, and check. Another in all those different categories has spurred new reason boots top the list: There’s no better or more functionality in classic fashion styles, making for versatile style to check all the boxes consumers are the perfect marriage. That blend is fundamental to looking for. “The traditional categories of shoes are the entire brand ethos of Pendleton footwear as being transcended, people are demanding shoes it enters its second fall season, according to VP of that they can wear from the gym, to the office, and sales Margaret Doran. “We’ve combined high qual- then to a dinner party,” Rachel Carmi of Bernie Mev ity, functional footwear with the beauty and heritage says. “If one of our designs can’t be applied to more of an iconic brand like Pendleton. It is an abso- than one setting, then we don’t move forward with lute standout in an otherwise crowded landscape the design. By understanding that today the lines where lots of boots and brands look the same.”

BY JENNIFER ERNST BEAUDRY / PHOTOS BY FRANK JAMES

footwearinsight.com February 2020 ~ Footwear Insight • 27 Dankso Chloe Comfort, but make it cozy. The Chloe takes the foot cradling support of Dansko’s iconic Professional Clog and adds a slouchy knit collar to give the style a warm, snuggly upgrade. MSRP $160. BOOT BOO K/ FASHION

1 2

3 4

5 6

1. Lifestride Kunis 3. Alegria Charlette 5. Quoddy Chukka RL The classic combat boot is hotter than ever. This A rugged lugged outsole and classic harness boot Handcrafted in the brand’s Lewistown, ME refined, feminine take on the look keeps the lugged details are all business. But Alegria’s Charlette style factory, this leather chukka is rugged and durable outsole and familiar silhouette, but makes it office- flexes its softer side with graceful lines and a romantic, enough for the hard jobs and comfortable ready with an of-the-moment embossed croc all-black embossed floral shaft.MSRP $189.95. enough to take things easy. It gets its slipper- upper and ribbon laces. MSRP $89.99. like feel from its moccasin construction, which 4. Sporto Calynn wraps around the foot, and its breathable insole 2. Remonte Chandra 54 Sweater weather? This boot is ready. With a double system. MSRP $300 and up. With a sleek silhouette and short stacked dose of cozy thanks to the knit shaft and plaid- heel, this lace-up boot is a classic, but it’s lined fold down upper, this weather-resistant style 6. Propet Ford anything but boring: Deep burgundy leather will go anywhere the day takes you. MSRP $59.99. Classic cap-toe styling in an on-trend chestnut and tartan fabric upper panels add style; a hue are the goes-with-everything footnote every removable insole, the substance. MSRP $145. wardrobe needs. MSRP $99.95.

footwearinsight.com February 2020 ~ Footwear Insight • 29 BOOT BOO K/ FASHION

1 2 3

4 5 6

1. Vionic Kaylee Suede Knit Ankle Boot, 3. Rieker Cordula 43 5. Soft Comfort Magono Lace Up Hiker Sure, this boot boasts arch support and a biomechanically Sunny yellow makes everyone smile — pair it with an Classic hike style — check those D-rings and the faux- oriented construction, so it’s comfortable all day — easy-wearing sneaker boot look and a textured, grippy fur collar — makes for a versatile look that works all even with a heel. But it’s the suede upper, refined outsole and you have a day-in, day-out winner. And don’t day. MSRP $59.99. almond-shaped toe and cozy knit collar that make be afraid of a gloomy forecast: the water-resistant Rieker this ankle boot in luxe cream winter white #goals. Tex coating means these boots are good to go anytime. 6. Secret Celebrity Jennifer Cuffed Lug Bootie MSRP $169.95. MSRP $115. Moto style is the name of the game for this ankle-height bootie. A faux shearing fold-down cuff and suede upper 2. Giorgio Brutini Houston 4. Soft Comfort Jonelle Sweater Cuff Boot give a trend-right edge to a classic shape. MSRP $59.99. This men’s hiker boot is functionable fashion A studded buckle detail and fold-over ribbed sweater personified: The pairing of a waterproof dress-boot cuff adds the oomph to this stacked heel women’s upper with a flexible, athletic-inspired outsole looks look. And it’s easy-on, easy-off thanks to a medial fresh and stays comfortable all day. MSRP $59.99. zip entry. MSRP $59.99.

30 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com With a Floatride Energy foam midsole, the Fusion Flex weave™ Work provides cushioning with a kick. Floatride Energy foam is supportive, highly responsive, and lighter than traditional EVA. The Flexweave™ fabric delivers flexible support, lightweight durability, and breathable strength, allowing you to put more muscle into every fiber. The slip resistant rubber outsole features visual footmapping for adaptive, multi- dimensional flexibility.

REEBOKWORK.COM/FUSION-FLEXWEAVE BOOT BOO K CHAPTER 2 WORK/TACTICAL ON THE JOB AND OFF THE CLOCK

here’s a new breed of work boots in town. High-tech, high style, high comfort and high Tenergy, they are designed to work 24/7, and when the job is done, they know how to walk away and play hard, too. Fashionable and functional, the boots debuting in Fall 2020 have the look and lightweight feel of sneakers but with pumped-up protection. Lauren Poole, senior brand marketing manager for Wolverine, says that athletic shoes have become the standard point of reference in work boot design. “People are demanding more performance and comfort in footwear regardless of category, and we recognize the importance of cushioning as a crucial component of performance and comfort as well as the durability demands in the work category,” she says. Today’s workers expect more than

Bates Maneuver Side Zip DryGuard+ Thermo Durable and performance-driven, this comfortable tactical boot features Bates’ top technologies. It takes on the most demanding environments with a nylon and premium leather upper. An Ortholite insole and polyurethane core battle the fatigue that comes with long shifts; a Vibram outsole is key for traction in multiple conditions. MSRP $185.

THESE BOOTS ARE TOUGH ON THE JOB SITE AND STYLISH ON THE TOWN. BY NANCY A. RUHLING

32 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com the standard safety features, according to Robin Skillings, senior “The market demands innovation, which director of global marketing for Keen Utility. “The market demands innovation, which encompasses materials, construction and design encompasses materials, construction and to produce better performance, lighter weight and optimal fit for design to produce better performance, lighter every job,” he says. weight and optimal fit for every job.” One of those innovations is the new Keen.Bellows Flex technology that flexes, folds and bends to make knee-down tasks easier. “It addresses a need workers didn’t even know there could be a solution “Many of our top selling styles are in specialty work categories — for,” Skillings says. “No more cracking or splitting leather at the high puncture resistance, insulated, metatarsal guards and women’s —all flexion point of work boots.” directed by ongoing dialogue with our partners,” he says. Some of the innovations that brands are introducing are based When it comes to the tactical category, consumers are looking on wearers’ feedback. David Mesicek, chief marketing officer at for boots to do the long-haul heavy lifting, so it’s not surprising that Honeywell Retail, the parent company of The Original Muck Boot Co. safety and style are fusing. and Xtratuf, says Muck’s Apex style, which has a lighter silhouette “Today’s market is calling for more comfort and more functionality for faster, more athletic pursuits, and Xtratuf’s Legacy, which pairs in a great price point under $119,” says Brandy McCarty, chief performance features with a more casual aesthetic, are direct results merchandising officer for The Eastman Group, whose brands include of extensive on-the-job-site research. Magnum. “This is key. Magnum is also answering the market demand Ken Blanco, national VP of sales for Footwear Specialties, whose in terms of coloration with the Coyote colorway really coming to life.” brands include Avenger, says that features are inspired by feedback Keith Carrato, VP and GM of Bates Footwear, adds that wearers from brand partners across work categories, including food are placing a priority on boots that can transition from work to home processing, the oil industry and cement plants. and back again. “They expect their boots to deliver uncompromising He points to the Avenger Breaker series, which features traction on any terrain and relentless durability — all while being contemporary urban styling to appeal to a younger demographic. incredibly comfortable for all-day wear.”

Ten years ago, Twisted X® revolutionized the western industry by offering “The Original” Driving Moc, the first casual profile for the western market.

footwearinsight.com February 2020 ~ Footwear Insight • 33 Reebok Fusion Flexweave Work Shoe Designed with an athletic silhouette, the Fusion Flexweave Work features a slip-resistant rubber outsole and a protective composite toe. The cage design of the shoe’s upper has a unique look and provides added support. Beneath the cage, the upper is made from an Ultraknit and Flexweave combination for breathability. MSRP $134-$142. JOB-FITTED FOR ALL-DAY COMFORT

2 1. 51% WELT FOR ADDED HEEL STABILITY AND GREATER FLEX IN THE BALL OF THE FOOT WHERE YOU NEED IT THE MOST

2. THE PATENT PENDING INFINITY MIDSOLE KEEPS YOU GOING WHILE REDUCING SHOCK, AND PROPELLING YOU FORWARD

INTRODUCING THE INFINITY FD SERIES Wherever the site, whatever the job, Infinity FD delivers modern boot amenities and traditional Thorogood reliability that doesn’t compromise comfort for performance. The patent pending Flex-drive rear-welt construction allows for maximum flex in the toe and superior construction. Paired with Flex-drive is our proprietary Anti-Fatigue high rebound sole that returns energy with every step. With zero break-in and weather defiant protection from the elements, the Infinity FD gives you peace of mind, comfort, and confidence so you can focus on a job well done. VIEW THE ENTIRE SERIES at THOROGOODUSA.com 804-3416

THOROGOODUSA.COM 012020 Avenger Work Boots Style A7282 Part of the brand’s Breaker series, this men’s and women’s waterproof, electrical-hazard-rated boot pairs heavy-duty safety features such as lightweight, puncture-resistant safety toes with an updated urban look that appeals to younger, more stylish workers. MSRP $109.99.

BOOT BOO K

1. Dunlop Snugboot Pioneer Engineered for comfort, this composite-toe boot provides the protection of a heavy-hitter (it has a slip-rated outsole, meets ASTM and EN requirements and has a lightweight, breathable, waterproof upper), but fits like a shoe.MSRP $149.99.

2. Xtratuf Legacy Lace Boot / WORK & TACTICAL This 8-inch insulated, 100 percent waterproof boot deconstructs the brand’s commercial-grade Legacy, which was designed to fit the needs of the Alaskan fishing community, and adds a full-grain 1 2 waterproof leather upper to the original slip-resistant chevron outsole. Its built-in cushion insoles with arch support provide comfort on long shifts. MSRP $190.

3. Muck Boot Co. Apex This hard-working all-terrain boot for men and women offers all the brand’s prime protection — it’s 100 percent waterproof, has a high-traction outsole and a lock-down zipper closure system — on a lighter silhouette designed for faster, more athletic jobs. MSRP $140.

4. Skechers Work Moltke This men’s waterproof, slip-resistant rain boot, which features rubber-coated neoprene and the brand’s Air-Cooled Memory 3 4 Foam, is designed for work and casual wear, too. MSRP $84.

5. Coleman Tradesman This entry-level boot combines great materials (leather) and quality construction (Goodyear welt) at a super-accessible price. MSRP $50.

6. Wolverine Hellcat With its supercharged performance cushioning and lightweight UltraSpring midsole, the durable Hellcat combines the comfort and moves of a sneaker with the chops of a traditional heavy- duty work boot. MSRP $165.

7. Keen Utility Portland 5 6 This turbo-charged 6-inch industrial hiker, built in the brand’s Portland factory, is made for the rough-and-tough jobs. Built like a sneaker and compliant with ASTM EH standards along with ASTM and Mark II non-slip standards, it comes with a ton of high-tech features that include the Keen.Bellows Flex ergonomically engineered system designed to flex and fold with up to three times less torque than other work boots on the market. MSRP $210.

8. Timberland PRO Reaxion Mid Composite Safety Toe This hiker-style, full-grain leather boot is made to work long shifts: Its composite toe is lightweight, its TPU-wrapped Aerocore midsole and Anti-Fatigue Technology keep feet comfortable and 7 8 its moisture-wicking lining is breathable to keep feet odor-free. MSRP $160.

9. Iron Age Footwear The Reinforcer Designed for stone masons, concrete finishers, steelworkers and plumbers but worn by workers across the spectrum, the steel- toe wedge Reinforcer, which has a full-grain leather upper and the brand’s ultra-comfortable BootBed memory foam footbed, works just as well off the job as on. MSRP: $121-$132.

10. Magnum Response III SZ WP This waterproof non-metallic boot, which comes in a cool Coyote colorway, is packed with power. It hits all the trends: Tech-heavy yet lightweight; durable, breathable, comfortable, slip-resistant and scanner safe and most of all, perfectly priced. MSRP: $110. 9 10

38 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com

BOOT BOO K CHAPTER 3 RAIN STORMY WEATHER

ain boots continue to make a splash, in bold colors and prints that Rcan add accent to an everyday outfit without so much as compromising an inch of function. Stacy Cail, marketing director for Washington Shoe Co., parent company of the Chooka, Western Chief and Staheekum brands, says that wearers are looking for boots that express a sense of style — “whether it’s done through a print or a chunky platform outsole.” She notes that Chooka has added a plaid to its collection and caters to “the woman looking for a classic style, a commuter shoe and something trendier.” Western Chief brings several silhouettes and bright colors to the style mix this season. “It has a collection of tall rubber boots that fit a variety of calf widths that allow someone with a wide or athletic calf to still be able to wear a tall boot,” she says. “The adjustable back buckle allows for a customized fit.” Rain boots not only have to weather the wet in style, but they also have to be easy to put on and take off. “Wearability and versatility are key trends,” says Megan Vinton, director of product for Bogs. “That’s why we focused on easy low- to mid- heights, thoughtful and functional heel pulls as well as waterproof Bogs Classic Casual Lace Leather Combining function and performance, the Classic Casual Lace Leather zippers, ultimately making these a style is part of a collection of ankle- to mid-height boots for men and women that updates the brand’s Classic boot, time saver when you’re headed out giving it a more lightweight, everyday look. It’s also Bogs most sustainable collection, using recycled rubber, leather the door for a weekend activity or a from tanneries rated gold by the Leather Working Group and recycled PET textiles, laces and binding. MSRP $120. commute to work.”

RAINBOOT STYLES THAT DON’T RAIN ON YOUR STYLE PARADE. BY NANCY A. RUHLING

40 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com 1 2 3 4

1. Western Chief Rain 2. Chooka Pret Plaid Moxee 3. Sporto Delancy 4. Staheekum Ankle Rain Shoe Drop Burst Vari-Fit Cut at a popular height, this women’s Outfitted in a fashion-right plaid upper, Sleek and chic even in dry weather, this In eye-catching teal, this women’s boot boot walks through — and on — water this waterproof women’s boot, which men’s waterproof rain boot features brightens the rainiest of days, and its in comfort and style: It features a soft features a Thermolite lining and a a neoprene lining to keep feet warm. gusset technology makes it a good fit for fleece lining and feel-good Ortholite comfort footbed, is the right price and MSRP $75. both slimmer and fuller calves. MSRP $45. foam insoles that are removable and style to make it easy to add several pair washable. MSRP $75. to the closet. MSRP $60.

OUTDOOR RETAILER 49116-UL FN PLATFORM 74610

MADE TO EXPLORE. STAHEEKUM.COM @STAHEEKUM #STAHEEKUM

footwearinsight.com February 2020 ~ Footwear Insight • 41 BOOT BOO K CHAPTER 4 OUTDOOR ALL-AROUND PERFORMERS

he line between performance and lifestyle continues to Salomon Cross Hike Mid GTX blur in the outdoors as stylish boots are packed with The completely new Cross Hike is ready for any conditions with multi- tech details and core performers flash a fashionable aes- directional lugs, a seamless, closed-mesh construction and a waterproof thetic. Versatility — in style and performance — is often Gore-Tex membrane. The mid-height style has a 20mm stack height and T 10mm drop. MSRP $170. the No. 1 trait consumers are seeking in outdoor boots. “We’re seeing incredibly strong success with hiking shoes that appeal to lighter, faster and more nimble, too. “More and more, people are the consumer who’s immersing in the outdoors as a lifestyle,” says continuing to trend towards lighter-weight, more athletic-feeling Becky Marcelliano, outdoor marketing manager at Salomon. “Maybe products for a range of outdoor activities,” notes Mark Mathews, they’re climbing peaks, or riding their bike to the bar, or planning a VP of sales, Scarpa North America. “There is a lot of influence raft trip, or chasing the sunrise. The trend is in shoes and boots that from running shoes and athletic footwear coming into the outdoor can offer an everyday aesthetic with the fundamental technicality to segment in shoes built for all-around trail use.” Whether they are allow them to adventure at the next rad opportunity.” being worn on the trail or the city sidewalk, these Fall 2020 boots On the technical side, core performance styles are getting are ready to rock.

BOOTS THAT DELIVER IN ANY ENVIRONMENT. BY CARA GRIFFIN

42 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com IT OUT3.0 Workplace Styles: The intersection between dress, athletic/athleisure and office style. Urban functionality with built-in comfort + classic looks.

Our continuing coverage of work (boot) life beyond the construction site and the brands and retailers who make it work.

ALSO IN THIS ISSUE: KIDS | MADE IN AMERICA

ISSUE DATE: MARCH/APRIL 2020 AD CLOSE MARCH 9

Contact Jeff Nott Sam Selvaggio Katie O’Donohue Ron Stern Information 516-305-4711 212-398-5021 828-244-3043 201-774-2432 [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]

footwearinsight.com BOOT BOO K / OUTDOOR

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1. Bearpaw Boreal 3. Forsake Sophia Lace 5. Scarpa Rush Mid GTX Throwback color blocking gives the Boreal boot The Sophia boot for women blends all-weather This do-it-all trail shoe pairs trail-running inspired retro appeal to spare. But it’s packed with enough protection with sophisticated urban style. Premium design with the support and protection of a light, completely modern features, including a removable full-grain leathers and waterproof/breathable waterproof hiker. It features the brand’s new Poron footbed, warm wool-blend lining and the membrane offer performance; the internal wedge Interactive Kinetic System (IKS), a sole with five brand’s NeverWet waterproofing to make it hold its adds comfort and style. MSRP $174.95. concave impact zones that compress and absorb own on the slopes or around town. MSRP $84.99. energy as they contact the ground, allowing 4. Oboz Bozeman Mid Leather Pull-on secondary lugs to then come in contact with the trail 2. Ecco Zipflex Mid The women’s Bozeman pull-on style combines to increase traction. MSRP $179. With a sole design inspired by a zipper, the Zipflex technical trail performance with mountain-town offers flexibility and comfort, as well as a distinctive style. It has 3.5mm rubber lugs and a supportive 6. Vasque Alechemist XT UD aesthetic. Ecco’s DriTan Leather technology, which TPU heel cup. Bozeman Collection styles also The Alchemist Extended-Terrain UltraDry is a modern significantly reduces the amount of water required for feature a new O-Fit Insole made with Bloom Algae hiker that delivers durability and protection with less bulk. the tanning process, joins Dyneema Bonded Leather Foam. MSRP $140. It is designed to keep feet comfortable and ready for any by Ecco in the upper. MSRP $200. adventure. MSRP $140.

44 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com COMFORT REINVENTED

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SpringFootwear_Footwear_Insight_Ad_September_2019_Final for Print.indd 1 9/9/2019 6:17:54 PM BOOT BOO K / OUTDOOR

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1. Ecco Solice High 3. Khombu Swift 5. Hi-Tec V-Lite V-Lite Shift I + This stylish women’s offering from Ecco features Inspired by the U.S. Ski. Team, this women’s style The brand makes its entrance into the lightweight the first footwear application of Primaloft Bio, a 100 for Fall 2020 offers a combination of fashion and speed hiking market with this lightweight, value- percent recycled, biodegradable synthetic fiber function, taking the sneaker boot to next level. It oriented boot. It has the brand’s MD Traction Outsole insulation that adds warmth, and when combined offers the brand’s K-Guard weather protection, and Comfort Insole and features i-Shield water and with Hydromax, guards against winter’s tough a K-Grip bottom and a Comfort Flex Insole. stain resistance. MSRP $79.99. elements. This style is at home on the slopes or in MSRP $69.99. the city. MSRP $200. 6. Khombu Marcus 4. Twisted X MHKBW02 An urban hiker for men, the Marcus combines 2. Thorogood Infinity FD Series 9” Drakar This 11” waterproof boot features both Mossy Oak performance and casual style. It features the This waterproof, insulated outdoor boot features Bottomland Camo and Twisted X’s eco-conscious brand’s K-Guard weather protection, a K-Grip Thorogood’s patent pending FLEX-DRIVE 51 percent ecoTWX material, made with recycled plastic water bottom and a Comfort Flex Insole. MSRP $79.99. welt construction allowing for maximum flex in the toe bottles. The brand’s CellSole tech in the footbeds offers and enhanced heel stability. An anti-fatigue energy comfort and the outsole is oil- and slip-resistant. return system works to absorb shock. MSRP $210.

46 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com

PROFILE Feetured Players By Bob McGee Running had a presence in the independent representative to solely focus Channel market since the 2016 launch of on the footwear channel and has or Feetures, business is a Stalwart its Everyday product, its first established a series of grassroots family affair. And for 2020, foray into a more casual line. events to establish more brand Feetures the Hickory, NC-based “Three years ago, we made a traction and build store traffic sock brand is preparing for Sees major update to our product line for the Everyday range and the F Opportunities its newest frontier: expanding its and created the Everyday product. entire sock segment. A program, sock story in the independent shoe in the The idea was that we were going to created with approximately 30 store channel in a significant way. Footwear take our running sock technology footwear stores in Fall 2019 will The brand was founded in Independent to socks designed for dress and be expanded in 2020. It centers 2002 by Hugh Gaither, a 27-year Channel casual use, bring performance to on creating weekend store sales veteran of the Ridgeview sock and that category and create some events, similar to a trunk show hosiery company, who saw an differences,” Joe Gaither says. “We where customers who show up opening in the market for a better thought there was an opportunity to try on a pair of shoes can premium, technical performance to use and create a synthetic receive a new pair of Feetures. sock. Today, the Gaither team dress sock line — it’s moisture- Key to the initiative is the with at Feetures includes sons John wicking with different fibers — and the February introduction of the Gaither, the SVP of product, and use the compression and fit that Everyday No Show line of low-cut Joe Gaither, the VP of marketing, makes our performance socks so socks for men and women, with as well as daughter Catherine, who unique in the running market.” 15 SKUs styles retailing at $14.99. works as an executive assistant. It was a formula, they The channel is a natural fit, Working together, the Gaithers say, that resonated. Joe Gaither says, because the have built the brand into a run “When we began to introduce specialty market consumer is specialty powerhouse: 50 percent ourselves in footwear stores that looking for product with real of the firm’s business is done in we did not have distribution in, benefits — and the independent the channel, and it’s consistently they understood our success in channel has the right model to a top seller in run shops. the run market,” Hugh Gaither demonstrate it to them. The “The edge we have in this highly says. “And that gave us an try-on and fitting experience competitive business is that we’re immediate level of credibility.” in store by educated staff completely focused on socks,” Today, the Everyday line has associates, he says, is crucial. John Gaither says. “It’s the first grown to include a variety of “In a big box environment where thing we think about every day lifestyle socks in a variety of customers are self-shopping, it’s and the last thing as well. We are weights and patterns, with 33 much harder to tell the difference completely focused on moving men’s styles and 41 for women, between a $16 sock and a 12-pack the category forward and finding and has placement in shoe for $15. The benefits are certainly new ways to innovate, and I think accounts including Schuler explained on the package,” Joe that’s what really resonates Shoes, Footwear Etc., Dardano’s, Gaither says. “But it’s really in the retail marketplace.” Elite Light Cushion Alan’s Shoes, Karavel Shoes, hard for some consumers And this year, the Gaithers want No Show (top) and and Comfort One. And it sees an to understand that value Men’s Everyday to bring that focus to the footwear opportunity to grow that share. proposition without someone Ultra Light Triangle channel in an even bigger way. Park Crew Navy. For its 2020 push, Feetures there to explain it or the ability to It’s no newcomer: the brand has promoted an in-house sales try on the sock.” l

48 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com Left to right: John, Hugh and Joe Gaither. LINES WE LIKE CAMPAIGN SEASON These three brand + celeb partnerships have us intrigued…

Fila x BTS All seven members of the uber-popular South Korean pop group BTS are pictured wearing classic white Fila tees and hoodies with the Fila linear logo in the first image released from the “One World, One Fila!” brand campaign. BTS signed on as global brand ambassadors for the brand last October and the new campaign dropped in January. Reebok x Conor McGregor MMA star Conor McGregor is the marketing face of Reebok’s biggest shoe drop of 2020 — the new Zig Kinetica, with a new campaign that features McGregor trans- forming into an action figure through the “power of Zig.” It is the next phase in Reebok’s “Sport the Unexpected” campaign, which the brand says celebrates “bold risk takers.” The $120 Zig Kinetica shoe has a distinct zigzag-shape and an energy-return sole. DFNS x Nigel Sylvester Pro BMX athlete Nigel Sylvester has been tapped as the official brand ambassador for DFNS, an Amsterdam-based company that specializes in sustainable apparel and footwear protectors. Foot Locker is among the retailers carrying the brand’s products, which target the sneaker-loving crowd, and include a sneaker cleaning kit, footwear protection spray and apparel laundering product. Sylvester will partner with the brand to develop his own collection of DFNS travel care essentials and will support product announcements across the DFNS range.

50 • Footwear Insight ~ February 2020 footwearinsight.com VISIT US AT ATLANTA SHOE MARKET FEBRUARY 37 FEBRUARY 57 FEBRUARY 1517 THE EASTMAN GROUP MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTER COBB GALLERIA CENTRE 34 WEST 33RD ST, NYC LEVEL 1 | BOOTH# 71705 BOOTH# 11401146