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THE DEAD HEART OF AUSTRALIA THE CA\IEI, TRAIN CROSSING THE STONY DESERT NEAR \` UN1ANOORINNA. THE DEAD HEART OF AUSTRALIA A JOURNEY AROUND LAKE EYRE IN THE SUMMER OF 1901-1902, WITH SOME ACCOUNT OF THE LAKE EYRE BASIN AND THE FLOWING WELLS OF CENTRAL AUSTRALIA

BY J. W. GREGORY, F.R.S., D.Sc. PROFESSOR OF GEOLOGY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF GLASGOW

WITH MAPS AND ILLUSTRATIONS

COLONIAL EDITION

LONDON JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET, W. 1909 CONTENTS

PART I.-INTRODUCTION

CHAP. PACE 1. HOW THE KADIMAKARA CAME DOWN FROM THE SKIES ...... 3

PART II.-NARRATIVE

II. THROUGH THE GREAT VALLEY OF SOUTHERN AUSTRALIA ...... 17

III. THE GATHERING AT HERGOIT SPRINGS 28

IV. ON THE QUEENSLAND STOCK-ROAD . 47

V. ALONG COOPER'S CREEK TO KOPPERA- MANNA ...... 64

VI, DOWN COOPER'S CREEK TO LAKE EYRE . 74

VII. ACROSS THE TIRARI DESERT . . . . 100

VIII. THROUGH THE VALLEY OF THE DIAMAN- TINA ...... 108

IX. FROM POONARANNI TO THE PEAK 124 A x11 CONTENTS

PART III.-THE LAKE EYRE BASIN

CHAP. PAGE X. THE DEAD HEART OF AUSTRALIA . . 145

XI. THE CHARM OF THE DESERT . . 155

XII. THE ABORIGINES OF LAKE EYRE . . 165

XIII. A CORROBOREE AT THE PEAK , 209

XIV. GEOGRAPHY AND MYTHS . . . 222

XV. THE GEOGRAPHICAL PLAN OF SOUTH AUS- TRALIA . 236

XVI. THE DISCOVERY AND EXPLORATION OF LAKE EYRE ...... 246

PART IV.-THE DEAD HEART OF AUSTRALIA- THE CHANCES OF ITS REVIVAL

XVII. THE FLOWING WELLS OF CENTRAL AUS- TRALIA ...... 271

1. THE SUBTERRANEAN WATERS OF CENTRAL

AUSTRALIA 271

41. THE NATURE OF FLOWING WELLS 280

III. EAST-CENTRAL AUSTRALIA AS AN ARTESIAN

BASIN 292

IV. WHY THE WATER RISES IN THE AUSTRALIAN WELLS 300

V. THE ASSUMED PERMANENCE OF THE SUPPLY

AND THE DANGER OF THE PRESENT WASTE 331

VI. SUMMARY . 336

XVIII. ON THE PROPOSAL TO FLOOD LAKE EYRE FROM THE SEA ...... 342 CONTENTS xiii

APPENDIXES

CHAP. PAGE 1. LIST OF THE NEW FOSSIL BIRDS DISCOVERED WITH THE BONES OF THE KADIMAKARA. DESCRIBEDBY MR. C. W. DE VIS . 353

II. NOTE ON THE MAMMALS COLLECTED. BY E. B. Dow, B .M.E. (MEns.) . . . . 354 III. A LIST OF ORIGINAL LITERATURE ON THE LAKE EYRE BASIN . 356

INDEX TO SUBJECTS ...... 373 PERSONS AND AUTHORITIES . . . 378 PLACES ...... 381 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

DESERT SAND-GRAINS . . On Cover

THE CAMEL TRAIN CROSSING THE STONY DESERT NEAR

WUNTANOO $ INNA FnttTi Time PAM

PREPARING TO START, HEBGOTT SPRINGS . fae iV 34

BLACKS AT K ILALPANINNA . . . . it 34 OUR BAGGAGE CAMELS ...... „ 44

THE MISSION STATION AT KILALPANINNA , ACROSS THE DRY BED OF THE LANE ...... „ 60

LEAVE-TAKING , KILALPANINNA . THE BLACKS APPRECIATE THE SHADE ...... „ 76

SECTION ACROSS A TYPICAL SOAKAGE 88

THE SHORE OF LAKE EYRE ...... facing 94

RETURN FROM LAKE TYRE . DELTA OF COOPER 'S CREEK BELOW OUR LOWEST CAMP ...... it 100 TIRARI DESERT , LOOKING NORTHWARDS TOWARDS THE DIA- MANTINA ...... „ 100

CLIFFS OF THE DIAMANTINA, WEST OF EALAMURINA, WITH A WATER -HOLE IN THE BED OF THE RIVER . . „ 110

HIGH CLIFFS OF THE DIAMANTINA , WEST OF. KALAMURINA, SHOWING THE BEDDED LOAMS WHICH CONTAIN THE BONES OF THE KADIMAKARA ...... „ 116

DIGGING OUT A " BOGGED " CAMEL BESIDE A WATER-HOLE IN THE BED OF THE LOWER DIAMANTINA „ 120 NORTHERN END OF THE PEAK RANGE FROM THE NEALE RIVER . WHITE COLOUR DUE TO THE ABUNDANCE OF QUARTZ FRAGMENTS ...... „ 138 THE LAST MARCH . MR. GRAYSON TAKING THE BAGGAGE CAMELS ACROSS THE PEAK RANGE . „ 142 KARHALINA , A MEMBER OF THE DIERI TRIBE, EAST OF LAKE EYRE (AGED ABOUT FIFTY YEARS ) . „ 164 xv xvi LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS Peas DALBIRIKA , A MEMBER OF THE YAUROKL TRIBE, NORTH OF LAKE HOWITT, CooPER 'S CREEK facing 164

WOLPILINA , A YANTRUWUNTA , FROM NORTH-EAST OF LAKE GREGORY ...... „ 164

A YAUROKA , FROM THE LAKE HOWITT COUNTRY . „ 164

OUB GUIDE FROM KILALPANINNA TO THE SHORES OF LAKE BYRE -EMIL KINTALAKADI, A MEMBER OF THE TIRARI TRIBE , EAST OF LAKE EYRE ...... It 178 AN ABOBIGINEE FROM THE DIAMANTINA . . . . . „ 178

THE TJI-TJI -NGALLA COBROBOREE AS PERFORMED AT KILAL- PANINNA ...... „ 210 Fro m a Photograph lent by Herr Siebert. CORROBOBEE DANCERS...... 213

SKETCH MAP SHOWING THE DISTRIBUTION OF THE TJI.TJI- NGALLA COBROBOBEE ...... facing 216

SKETCH MAP OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL DIVISIONS OF SOUTH AUSTRALIA ...... „ 236

THE OUTLET OF AN ARTESIAN WELL . . . . . „ 278 Prom a Photog ra ph lent by the Royal Colonial Institute. FIGURE ILLUSTRATING AN ARTIFICIALLY FLOWING WELL AND A NATURAL ARTESIAN SPRING ...... 283

A SERIES OF PIEZOMETERS ...... 285

SECTION SHOWING THE APPROXIMATE HEIGHT OF THE SURFACE, THE DEPTH OF THE WELLS , AND THE HEIGHT TO WHICH THE WATER WILL RISE AT THE WELLS . . . . . 306, 307

SKETCH MAP SHOWING DISTRIBUTION OF SOLID CONSTITUENTS IN THE WELL-WATERS OF CENTRAL AUSTRALIA . facing 314

SKETCH MAP SHOWING THE DISTRIBUTION OF UNDERGROUND TEMPERATURE GRADIENTS AS SHOWN BY THE ARTESIAN WELL-WATERS ...... It 318

MAP I. SKETCH MAP OF THE LAKE EYRE BASIN At end

II. SKETCH MAP OF EASTERN AUSTRALIA , SHOWING THE CENTRAL ARTESIAN BASIN AND THE GENERAL COURSE OF THE ISOPOTENTIAL LINES . . At end CHAPTER I

HOW THE KADIMAKARA CAME DOWN FROM THE SKIES

Sky created us ; but we shall be consumed by Eart h. A proverb of the Giriama, a tribe in British East Africa , near Mombasa.

It is strange to find fables similar to those of the more no rt hern nations even in the hea rt of Africa . Can they be the vestiges of traditions of animals which no longer exist? The fossil bones which lie in the calcareous tufa of this region will yet, we hope , reveal the ancient fauna . LIVINGSTONE. ACCORDINGto the traditions of some Austra lian aborigines , the deserts of Central Australia were once fertile, wel!:watered plains. Instead of the present brazen s*y, the heavens were covered by a vault of clouds , so dense that it appeared solid ; where to -day the only vegetation is a thin scrub, there were once giant g um-trees, which formed pillars to support the sky ; the air, now laden with blinding, salt-coated dust , was washed by soft, cooling rains, and the present deserts around Lake Eyre were one continuous garden. The rich soil of the country , watered by abundant rain, supported a luxuriant vegetation, which spread from the lake-shores and the river-banks far out across the plains . The trunks of lofty gum- trees rose through the dense undergrowth, and 3 CHAPTER VI

DOWN COOPER'S CREEK TO LAKE EYRE

Not a pool,not a bush, not a house is seen Round the parchedflats , spreadas a lake between.

METHUEN. THE serious work of the expedition to Lake Eyre began after leaving Kilalpaninna. According to native traditions, reported by Herr Siebert to Dr. A. W. Howitt, many Kadimakara (vide p. 4) are buried to the west of the mission reserve, between the Queensland Road and Lake Eyre. The occurrence of fossil mammals in this locality was confirmed, early in 1901, by Mr. H. Y. L. Browne, the Government Geologist of South Australia, who discovered bones there, while examining some reported phosphate deposits on the Cooper. Our first object was to make larger collections of the fossils, in the hope of definitely determining the age at which the Kadimakara lived, and with what animals they were associated. We wanted also to get further evidence as to the geological relation- ship of the bone deposits, and especially to ascertain whether they were laid down on the bed of Lake Eyre, when the lake was much larger than it is at present. 74 :., s _ 4h - - -

LEAVE-TvKING. IyII..1LPANINN.. THE BLACKS .APPRECIATE •n11': SHADE. CHAPTER XII

THE ABORIGINES OF LAKE EYRE

I cannot loathe nor scorn the colour'd man ; Nor deem him far below my Master's love. I know about the sutures of his skull, But I have proved him verily my brother. RODEN NOEL.

1. The Alleged Degradation of the Australian Aborigines, 165.-2. Little Evidence in its Support, 168.-3. The Australians as Caucasians, 175: (a) Physical Characters, 177; (b) Mental Characters, Religion, and Political System, 179 -4. Classification by Marriage Rules, 182.-S. Exogamy : (a) Its Principle, 184; (b) The Systems in Vogue around Lake Eyre, 188 ; (c) The Value of Exogamy, 194.-6. Totemism and its Possible Origins, 196.- 7. The Relations of the Victorian Aborigines to those of Lake Eyre, 199.-8. Are the Australian Aborigines the Most Primitive of Mankind? 202.

1. THE ALLEGED DEGRADATION OF THE AUSTRALIAN ABORIGINES THE basin of Lake Eyre is of especial interest to students of anthropology, for in it are found the survivors of the most primitive of Australian tribes, and perhaps the most archaic social system, that still exists upon the earth. There is a widespread belief that the Australian aborigines are the most degraded members of the human family. For instance, a recent article' on

The Nineteenth Century, January, 1906, p. 89. 166 CHAPTER XVIII

ON THE PROPOSAL TO FLOOD LAKE EYRE FROM THE SEA

The Earth is the Lord's, and all the corners thereof . He created the Mountains of Wales as well as the Wiles of Kent, the rugged Alpes as well as the fertile Plains of Campania- the boggy Fennes of Frizeland as well as the daintiest Valleys in France ; and to enveigh againstor deride it Conntrey for the barrenessethereof , is tacitlyto taxe God Almighty of Improvidence and Partiality. J s rESHowzan , Instructions for Forreine Travell (Published 1642).

THE most enthusiastic of Australians admit that their climate is in some respects sadly imperfect, and the theory that the whole world is undergoing slow desiccation (pp. 153-4) threatens that Nature, if left alone, will make it worse. To improve the climate artificially would be a big undertaking, for Australia is a whole continent ; but its people are not frightened by the size of a scheme, provided it promises adequate results. The worst of Australia is the partial distribution of its rainfall, whereby some regions are barren through drought, and others through a twelve-foot or even a seventeen-foot rainfall.' Hence it is difficult to

r Geraldtgu in 1894 bad the generous allowance of 211.24 inches of rain (Fifteenth Annual Report on Water-supply , Queensland, 1899, Table in App. No. XI.) 342 INDEX TO SUBJECTS

Aboriginee, The term, 60 Afghan camel-drivers, 28, 30 Aborigines of Lake Eyre district, Ainu, The hairy, relations to 165-208 Australians, 176 Alleged degradation of Aus- Apus, 136 tralian aborigines, 165-75, Artesian wells. See Flowing 202-8; cause of thisbe li ef, wells. 173-5 Flanders, of, 281 Cannibalism, 181 London, of, 283, 296 Capacity for education, 61 Paris, of, 282, 289, 296 Caucasian race, A, 61, 175, Term 281, 284, 290-2 -- R206-8 Artesioid wells, 283 ; and see Cranial ca acity, 173 Flowing wells. Culture of, 172 Arunta, 192, 231 Exogamy, 185-96; value of, Arunta, Legend of origin of, 194-6 227 Extinction threatened in Lake Australia as an archipelago, 21 Eyre district, 62 Eyesight, Defective, 129-30 Babbage's expedition, 256-63 Funeral rites 180-1, 228 Discovery of Lake Eyre by, Hereditary c)'iiefs, 182 258 Hunting methods, 93, 97 Bandicoot a pygmy, 97, 355 Idea of soul and spirit, 180 Basins filled by subaerial de- Marriage rules, 182-96 ; Elas- posits, 24 ticity of and exemptions from, Bibliography, 356-71 193-4 Birds collected, List of fossil, Mental characters, 169 - 71, 353-4 179 ; a generous offer, 99 ; Birds' nests, Dieri idea of origin kindliness, 160 of sand in, 233 Migrations, 183; indicated by Black swans, 126 folklore,225-30 Blythesdale Braystone, Assumed Negroes, Difference from, 179- intake for the flowing wells, 80 319 ; inadequacy of, 319-20 Not the primitive man, 208 Boring depot, 48 Physical characters, 173, 177-9, Buried rivers, Supposed, 273, 207 ; hair, 177, 207 297-8 Political system, 181-2 Burke and Wills expedition, 12, Religion of, 170-1, 180, 228-30 13, 57, 264 Smoke signals, 115 Totemism, 189 Camel bogged, 119 Adelaide and Sydney, positions " Fireworks," 65, 116 contrasted, 17, 18 loads, Weight of, 37, 46 373 874 INDEX TO SUBJECTS

Camel transport in Australia, Dieri : 39-41 Idea of soul, 228 Camels and water requirements Numbers of, 191 of, 43, 44 127 Primitive characters, 190-1 Dislike of ]'iorses to, 77 Dingo, 354; fossil bones of, 78, Habits of, 45 151 Canal to Lake Eyre, Proposed, Drought, Cattle losses by, 50 342-52 Ducks on water-holes, 80 Cost of, 348-9 Dust storms, 49, 65, 79, 91-2, Necessary size of, 348 120-1 Cattle stations, effect of drought, 49, 55, 76, lOt, 138, 156 Earth movements, Recent, 243 Central Australia, Former con- Earthquakes along the great dition of, 3-7 valley of South Australia, Change not recent, 233 243 Centre of Australia, The geo- East Central Australia as an graphical,145-6 artesian basin, 292 Circumcision, Origin of, 229 Egyptians, Ancient, and resem- By fire and stone, 229 blance to the aborigines, Clan, use of term in anthro- 169 pology, 181 Eyipment, 35-9 Clouds Wasted, 105 ood, 35-8 Coalfield of Leigh's Creek, 27 Eremian region, 146 Conception, Aboriginal view of, Estheria, 136 195-6 Evaporation, 322, 328, 338 Corroboree ground on Macumba, rates, 347, 349, viii 133 Exogamy, 185 Corroboree, Origin of the term, Its purpose 194-6 209 Principle oF, 186-8 Nature of, 209 Systems in use around Lake Rapid variations in, 220-1 Eyre, 188-94 Corroboree stone, 80 Extinct animals, Legends of, in Corroboree, The Tji-tji-ngalla, Central Australia, 3-7 139, 141, 209-21 Livingstone on, in Zambesi Idea of, 218 Valley, 3 Migration of, 216 Eyre, Expedition to Lake, ob- Rapid variations in, 220-1 jects of, 145; members of, Dasyu The, 169 39 Dead heart of Australia, 145-54; Eyrean region, 147 chance of its revival, 273 Eyre's expeditions, 19, 20, 248- Desert, Definition of term, 156 51 Desert sandstone, 64 ; Passage of Cooper's Creek through ridge Fables and their purpose, 223 of, 68 Flood plain of Cooper's Creek, Desert scenery, Fascination of, 66 29, 157-64 Flowing wells : Character, 47 Antiquity of, 281 Charm of desert, 155-64 Ascent of water in, 284, 287, Sandhills, 97 288-90,294 Desert soils, Fertility of, 53 Artesian basin, The ; its con- Recuperative power tinuous run, 299 ; its size, of, 276; section across 306-7 Desert sound,53 242 Assumed intake for the, 319 Desiccation of Lake Eyre, 151 Blackhall bore ; first deep A world-wide change, 153-4 well, 275 INDEX TO SUBJECTS 375

Flowing wells : Friction factor and subterranean Boring depot at Lake Harry, water, 300-5 48 Funeral rites, 180-1, 228 Charges for water at, 54 Chemical composition of Gawler-Olary line of elevation, waters, 274, 278, 288, 312-17, 237, 241, 244 339 Geysers, 330 Diminished yield of, 335 Grayson's Paradise, 114 Earliest in Australia, 274 Great Northern Railway of South Gas pressure in, 288, 317-18, Australia, 11 23-8, 142 331, 339 Great Valley of South Australia, Inadequacy of, 319-20 19,212 23-7, 236 Irrigation, value for, 277-80,338 Formation of, 150, 241 Isopotential lines, 305, 308-9 Group-marriage, 184, 201 Kopperamanna, 67 Guides, Our aboriginal, 81 Lake Harry, 48 Literature of, 271-2 Head, loss by friction, 301-5, 338 Natural gas in, 318 Highlands, South Australian, 236 Nature of 281-4 Origin of, 239 New South Wales, number of Horse station of Poonaranni, 120,, wells and yield of, 276 122 Permanence of supply assumed, Horses, dislike to camels, 77 334 Water requirements of, 44 Pressures, Irregularities in, Hydraulic gradients, 285, 294 305-11 Proposals to prevent waste, Inland sea, Supposed, 148, 253 333-4 Irrigation, 277-80, 338 Queensland, number of wells and yield in, 276 Jack and the Bean Stalk, equiva- Rock pressure in, 289 lent among the Dien, 232 Sale, well at 274 Juvenile water, 286 Source of the water, 318-21, 338-40 Kadimakara, Legend of, 3-4, 74, South Australia, number and 224 yield of, in, 276 Not indigenous in Lake Eyre Stock routes, Value for, 54, 280 country, 231-2 Suggested sources of the water, Two types of,230-2. 295-6 Whirlwinds and, 230 Temperature of, 67, 288, 315, Kamilaroi , Marriage among, 193, 317, 331, 339 195 Tidal movement in, 328-31, 339 Value for irrigation , 277-80, Lake pans, 52 338 Last march, 142 Value on stock routes, 54, 280 Laughing jackass- possible Varieties of, 288-90 reminiscence of, on Diaman- Victoria, Wells in, 274 tina Delta, 129 Waste of water from, 332 Le ends of aborigines : Water of, 55 Former condition of Central Westralia, Wells in, 288 Australia, 3-7, 224 Yields from, 56-67, 276 Indications of migration routes, Folklore. See Legends. 225-30 Fossil birds, list of new species Kadimakara, 3-7, 74, 224, 230- and genera collected,353-4 2; founded on fossil bones, Fossil bones, 78, 81, 108, 113, 125 3, 224 ; partly of extraneous Derived from the foams, 85 origin,234 376 INDEX TO SUBJECTS

Legends of aborigines : Scenery on Cooper 's Creek, 56-8 Origin of Arunta, 227 of desert, 29, 157-64 of Diamantina, 110, 112, Mammals collected, List of, 117, 126 354-5 „ of Lake Torrens, 26 Maoris, a mixed race, 177 Seagulls on water holes, 80 Market gardener, An aboriginal, Shag on water -holes , 80, 126 34 Skyy, World legends of 3-7, 231 Marriage castes , 188-9 ; rules Based partly on sand in birds' among aborigines , 182-96 nests, 233 Medicine men, self-deception by Smoke -signals, 115 aboriginal, 195-6 Snake-generating stone, 80 Meteoric water, 286 Snake killed by heat, 133 Mission at Kilalpaninna, 59-63 Soakages, 79, 80, 86-8, 89, 106, History of, 71-3 107, 132, 274 Missionary methods, Kempe on, Soils , 24, 26, 51 1 Soul Aboriginal idea of, 228 Moiety use of term in anthro- South Austra lia, geographical pology, 188-9 plan of, 236-45 Molonga, Corroboree, 216 Highlands of, 236, 245 ; rocks Mound springs , 88-9, 243, 318 of, 241 ; their origin, 239 Mum Mura, 233-4 History of exploration in, Myths, Origin of, 223 246-67 South Australian Register names Nardu plant, Spores of, used as Lake Eyre, 262 food, 76 Stock routes and wells, 54 Native companions, 67 Stone implements, extravagant number of 76 Outlets to Southern Ocean, 273, None in the hone -bearing beds, 297,299 152 Overlanders, 247 Stony desert, or Gibber plains Character of, 51 Pelocones, 290 Formation of, 69-70 Pelozemes, 290 Sturt 's discovery of, 20, 344 Percolation rates, 321-8 Storm, 136-8. See also Dust- Phratry, 188 storms. Piezometers, 284-6, 293 Strait across Austra lia, supposed Plateau scenery, 90, 134 existenceof, 21 Plutonic water, 286-7,315,317-18 Sturt 's expedition , 12, 13, 20, 252 Rabbits, 54 Sub-artesian wells. See Flowing Rain, Effects of, on desert 52 Wells ; definition p. 283 Rainfall, Fate of, in dentral Summer travel in Lake Eyre Australia, 271-3 basin : Rift Valley, 149 Coward on, 9 Riverdischarges: Warburton on, 8, 259 Of Darling, 273, 297, 336 Sunrises, 57 Of Murray, 297, 336 Sunsets at Q uorn, 25, 118 Of Sudbury, 297 Supposed inland sea, due to Of Thames, 297, 321 mirage 253 Run off, 321 Sydney and Adelaide . Positions contrasted, 17, 18 Sand - dunes and sand-capped rid es, 65, 109, 128 Tasmania and Victoria, date of Sand-bill scenery, 85, 119 last land connection, 152 INDEX TO SUBJECTS 377

Tasmanians , relations to Austra- Vegetation : lians, 176 Beside the lower Cooper, 84 Temperatures in Lake Eyrebasin, Macumba valley , 131, 135 8, 9, 78, 97,113,120-2 On Cooper flood plains, 58,66 At Hergott, 31-4 On Diamantina , 110, 112 Clothing used, 32, 48 On Tirari desert, 101, 105 Sturt on, 12, 13, 32 ' Victorian aborig ines, relations to Thylacinus in the Lake Eyre those of Lake Eyre, 199-202 bone beds, 152 Tirari desert , March across, Water-dog, 118 102 Westralian aborigines, Roth's Scenery of, 104 reporton, 174 Tirari, Last of the, 82 Whirlwinds, believed due to Totemism , 189,193,196-8 Kadimakara, 230 Theories of origin, 197-8 Willouran-Babbage line of eleva- Totemic groups of the Dieri, tion, 238, 244 189 Wonkonguru tribe, 191 Trans -Continental valley, sup- Wood- duck Charlie, 135 posed, 21-2 Wotjobaluk, 198

Urabunna, The tribe, 191 Yantuwantu, 191

Veddas, relations to Australians, Zulu, resemblance of their and 176 Australian legends, 234 INDEX TO PERSONS AND AUTHORITIES

Aime, 281 Darwin, C., 208 Andrews, F. W, 356 Daubree, 290, 330 Anton (aboriginal guide ), 81, 83, David, T. W. E, 98, 108, 112, 113, 92, 96,106 115, 116, 271, 272, 317, 318, 319, 320, 322, 328, 331, 337 Babbage , B. H., 20, 256, 257, Davis, John, 52, 155, 359 260, 262, 356 Dawkins, V. Boyd, 301 Bain, D. B. 357 Dawson, James, 176, 182, 195 Barker, Colet, 247 Deakin, Alfred, 271 Barron, 357 Debney, G. L., 360 Barton, C. H., 246, 203 Dickson, H. N., 339 Beardmore, 321 Donaldson, A. J., 10, 39, 47, 59, Bonney, C., 247 94, 135, 136 Bosworth, 78 Dow, E. B., 10, 39, 48, 59, 78, 94, Boultbee, J . W., 272, 280, 331, 125, 126, 135, 354 337 Dun, W. S., 271, 272, 360 Box, T., 303, 304 Durkheim, 188 Brown, 49 Dutton, F. S., 257, 259, 360 Brown, H . Y. L., 10, 23, 74, 224, 266, 272, 357 East, J. J., 360 Brown , Robert, 247, 248 Elder, Sir Thomas, 41, 67 Browne , J. H. 13 Eliot, Sir Charles, 320 Burke, R. O'f, 12, 13, 20, 40, Emil (a Tirari guide), 79, 80, 82, 57, 77, 111, 154, 156, 264, 265 83, 85, 86, 91, 92, 93, 94, 96, Burn, D. B., 42 97 Burr, Thomas, 357 Etheridge, R., junr., 360 Burtt, A . P. 260, 357 Eyre, E. J., 19, 155,175, 225, 247, Byrnes, J. T., 333 248, 249, 250, 360 Cambridget H., 369 Fison, L., 172, 189 Chamberlain , T. C., 291 Fitzgerald, D., 323 Checchi, E., 298 Fliert, J., 73 Chewings , Charles, 359 Flinders, M, 248 Clutterbuck , J. C., 283 Flower Sir William, 176 Conway, Martin, 153 Folwell, A. P., 304, 324 Cornish, 359 Frazer, J. G., 166, 197, 362 Cox, W. G. 272 Freeling A. H., 255, 256, 362 Creed, J. 11Y.,166 Frome, 1B. C., 362 Cunow , 188, 189 Gason, Samuel, 362 Dampier, W., 130 Gawler, Governor G., 248 378 PERSONS AND AUTHORITIES 879

Gehart , James, 257, 357 Kenyon, A. S., 347 Giles h., 363 King , 76, 77, 264, 265 Gill, Y.,9 Koch, 72 Gillen, F. J., 169, 161, 172, 183, Krapotkin, 153 188, 191, 194, 195, 197, 205, 214 227, 367 Lang, Andrew, 167, 188, 194, 198, Gipps, P. R., 289 201, 204, 234, 365 Goeshng, 71,72 Latrobe, C. J., 175 Goyder, G. W., 253, 255, 256, 262, Lattorff, H., 365 363 Launay, de, L., 330 Grayson, H. J., 8, 10, 39, 41, 52, Laycock, 10 81, 97, 98, 108, 113, 114, 115, Lewis, J. W., 8, 94, 95, 128, 266, 120, 136, 140 365 Greaves, Charles 324 Locke, J., 366 Gregory, Sir A. (:., 263, 298, 334, Lyell, Sir C. 283 363 Lyons, C. R., 10, 39, 48, 59, 92, Grey, Sir George, 175,197 126, 366 Hack, S., 364 hlacdonnell Sir R G., 262, 366 Haddon, A. C 198, 213 McKinlay, Y, 52, 155, 265, 366 Hardman, William, 364 McKinney, H. G., 327 Hardy, 364 Mais, H. C., 366 Harris, W. G., 64 Major, C. J. Forsyth, 224 Hartig, Eli , 85, 86, 89 Mathews, R. H., 193, 195 Hawdon, Jos., 247 Matthew, J., 169, 176, 194, 198, Hay, R., 289 223 Helling , A., 30, 40, 119 Merriman , H., 301, 302 Henderson, J. B., 272, 275, 278, Meyer, C. A., 73 305, 308, 318, 329, 331, 332, Mitchell, Sir T., 252, 272, 294 335, 337 Moncrieff, A. B., 366 Hillier, 59, 77, 80 Morgan, 188 Homann, 71, 72 Mueller, F. von, 366 Horrocks, J. A., 40, 252 Murray, S., 298 Howchin W., 10 Howell, James, 342 Naylon, Tom, 107 Howitt, A. W., 8, 74, 76, 110, Nelson, Sir Hugh M., 333 111, 152, 154, 172, 181, 183, 185, 189, 195, 197, 199, 223, PalmQr, E., 272 225, 264,365 Parker, Mrs. K. Langloh, 234 Huddleston, W. H., 365 Parry, S., 257, 263, 357 Huxley, T. H., 168, 177 Phillipson, N. E., 41, 44, 46 Pickering, C., 169 Jack, R. L., 272, 275, 319, 321, Pittman, E. F., 271, 272, 311, 331,338 315, 316, 317, 319, 322, 328, Jackson, Andrew, 365 331, 337 Jakob, 71, 72 Prestwich, J., 283, 291 Jenks, E., 199 Prior, J. T. M., 296 Jerry, 98, 106, 132, 135 Jones , J. W., 10, 47, 55, 260, 293, Ratzel, F., 166 308, 332, 337, 345, 348, 365 Reuther, Herr , 59, 60, 62, 109, 192, 225, 228 Kempe, E. C., 138, 139, 140, 141, Rey 291 226,228 Roti, W. E., 174, 197, 205, 216 Kendal H., 161 Ross, J., 367 Kennedy, Dr., 30, 33 Russell, H . C., 273, 321, 325, 338 380 PERSONS AND AUTHORITIES

Salisbury , R. D., 291 Thomson, J. P., 298, 327 Sambon, L., 33 Tod, Sir Charles , 87, 122, 325, Seward, A. C., 319 347, 370 Schoknecht, 72 Townsend, Meredith, 166 Scoular , G., 367 Siebert, Rev. 0., 8, 60, 62, 64, 74 Ulrich, G. H. F., 370 194, 216, 217, 225, 229 Upham, Warren, 279 Smith, F . Voss , 10, 23, 38, 39, 47, 81, 98, 108, 113, 114, 115, 136 Vogelsang, 55, 70, 71, 72 Smith , P. Guy , 10, 39, 48, 81, 98, 142 Wallace, A. R., 21 Spencer , W. B., 11, 147, 169, 171, Warburton, P. E., 8, 20, 94, 95, 172, 183, 188, 191, 192, 194, 257, 258, 260 265, 357, 370 195, 197, 205, 214, 227, 367 Waterhouse, F. a., 89, 272, 376 Steer, E ., 56, 75, 77, 85, 91, 96, 97, Welsh, 30, 34, 40 118, 120, 134, 140 Williamson, T. E., 274 Stirling, E. C., 10, 177 Wills, W. J., 12, 13, 20, 40, 57, Strange , W. L., 277, 321 77 111, 155, 156, 264, 265, Stuart, J. M'D., 20, 145, 264, 367 77, Stuckey, 263 Winnecke, Charles, 10, 40, 243, Sturt, Charles , 12, 20, 32, 44,155, 371 156, 243, 249, 252, 272, 344, Wood-duck Charlie, 135, 139 369 Woodward, H., 371 Sturt, Mrs. Napier George, 369 Woodward, H. P., 371 Wright, Hugh, 246 Tate , Ralph , 146, 369 Thomas, W. H., 166 Young, A., 329 INDEX TO PLACES

Adam Mountains, 309 Charleville , 305, 306, 308, 309, Adelaide, 18 , 19, 23 , 28, 33, 71, 310, 311, 315 72 82, 236, 247, 235 ClaytonRiver, 49 Alice Downs, 318 Clifton, 288, 314, 315 Arden, Mount , 247, 248 Clifton Hills, 51 Arrowsmith , Mount, 240 Cloncurry , 217, 287, 313, 314 Artois, 281 Cobar, 287 Cooper 's Creek, 50, 56-9, 64- Babbage, Mount, 238 101, 150, 245, 252, 265, 266, Ballimore, 317 313, 346 Barcaldine , 312 313 Defined channel, 77, 80 Barrier or Stanley Range, 240 Flood plain of, 66 Bass Strait, 152 Passage through Desert Sand- Baxter, Mount, 19 stone table-land, 68 Beltana, 26, 240, 243, 250 Water-holes on, 78, 80 Bethesda, 73 Cooper, Lower, 265, 353, 354 Bimberrie Hill, 237 Coorong, 272 Bimerah 276, 307, 311, 318 Corella, Bores at, 314 Blackhal Bore at, 275 Coward's Springs, 11 Blanche , hake, 263 Cowarie, 115, 122, 125, 230, 266 Blanchewater , 64, 88, 245, 265 Cuttaburra , 313, 316 Blinman Heights, 242 Boort, 316 Darling River , 12, 21, 146, 149, Boulia, 217, 220 150, 273, 297, 298, 336 Bowen Downs, 313 Darr River Downs, 306, 308, 310 , 316 Deception Mount, 19, 250 Brixton, 312 Denison Range , 148, 238, 240, Broken Hill, 287 245, 248, 264 Brown, Mount, 19, 24, 247, 311, Diamantina , 79, 87, 97, 98, 100, 313 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 110, Bucaltaninna, 73 112, 114, 117, 118, 122, 124, Buckingham Downs, 217 125, 130, 150, 217, 244, 245, Bulyeroi, 314 252, 265, 266, 346 Diamantina Vall ey : Callabonna , Lake, 10, 238, 245, Billabongs in, 112 263 Character of, 111, 112 Callana, 234, 266 Delta , Passage across, 127-30 Camooweal, 216 First view, 106 Carandotta, 216 Journey in, 106-27 Carpentaria , Gulf of, 148 Scenery in, 110, 112, 117, 126 Central Mount Stuart , 145, 146 Dillalah, 316 381 882 INDEX TO PLACES Dipulaco, 68 Eason, Mount, 307, 310 Dubbo, 316, 317 Gawler-Olary Line, 241 Dulkaninna , 54, 307, 332 Gawler Range , 19, 236, 237, 241, Dutton, Mount, 238 244, 249 Georg ina, 216 , 217 Eddington Downs , 306, 308, 310 Geraldton, 342 Elder Mountains , 25, 27, 239, 240, Gilbert River, 23 242 Gippsland , 148, 199, 200 Eyre's Creek, 252 Glenariffe, 318 Eyre, Lake , 1, 2, 3, 4, 7, 8, 9, 10, Glenora, 314 13, 14, 21, 28, 32, 34, 49, Glen Ormiston, 217, 220 53, 61, 62, 63, 64, 68, 74, 82, Goulburn, 200 85, 86, 88, 89, 94, 95, 96, 103, Goyder 's Lagoon, 307 309, 310 117, 120, 124, 125, 128, 129, Great Austra li an Bigit, 298 139, 142, 145, 146, 147, 148, Great Valley of South Australia, 150, 151, 152, 154, 155, 156, 12, 21, 27, 146, 236, 242, 245 165, 199, 202, 225, 234, 235, Gregory, Lake , 64, 67, 68, 236, 236, 239, 242, 245, 260, 264, 245, 260, 261, 263, 265 265, 296, 298, 325, 343, 345, Gregory Range, 239 346, 347, 354. Grenelle , 282, 289, 296 Eyre, Lake Grey Range , 240, 242 Bed of, 96 Below sea-level, 345 Hamley Bridge, 23 Contrary accounts of, 156 Harry, Lake , 48, 49, 54, 79, 280, Descriptions of Warburton and 303,307 Lewis, 95 Helidon Spa, 316 Desiccation of, 151 Herbert Downs, 217 Former condition of, 3-7 Hergott, 11, 28, 29, 30, 31, 34, 35, Geographicalhistory of, 147- 37, 42, 43, 45, 54, 55, 64, 71, 54 88, 117, 307, 226, 238, 240, History of discovery and ex- 243, 245, 280, 310 ploration in its basin, 246-67 Hergott Range, 89 Its central position , 146, 147 Hermannsburg Mission, 72 Kati -tanda, aboriginal name, Hermit Range , 260, 261 94 Highlands of South Australia, Named by South Australian 236, 239 Register 2471262 Himalaya 296 Proposed flooding, 342-52 Hope, Lake, 72, 230, 233 Relations to Lake Torrens, 20, Hopeless, mount, 19, 245, 250 239, 243 ; their possible Hughenden, 309, 313 former connection, 243 Shore of, 94 Illusion Plains, 49 Eyre Peninsula, 147 Ilturini, 100 Innamincka, 50 Farina, 238 Fernlee Run, 331 Jaude, 330 Finke, River, 72 Jervis, Cape, 236 Flanders, 286 Jibuti, 31 Flinders Range, 19, 239, 247, 250, 251, 261 Kalamurina , 100, 106, 108, 109, , 317, 318 117, 122, 142, 353 Florence, Lake, 263 Kalkutinna, 106 Freeling Heights, 242 Kallakoopah River, 125, 139, 130, Frome, Lake, 263 131, 354 12 River, 29, 30, 47, 238 Kangaroo Island , 237, 244 INDEX TO PLACES 383

Katakani , 130, 131 Murreebirrie, 109, 115, 116 Kati-tanda (Lake Eyre), 94 Murrumbidgee River, 149 Kelly'a Camp , 311, 314, 315 Musgrave Ranges, 238 Kilalpaninna , 59, 60, 62, 64, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 77, 98, 106, Nardubuckina Creek, 133, 134 140,171, 217,354 Narikalinanni, Ridge of, 68 Kingston Range, 240, 264 Nash, Lake, 216 Kissingen, 330 Nauheim, 330 Kopperamanna , 54, 55, 60,67,307, Neales River , 139, 140 354 New Guinea 296 Kopperamanna , Lake, 67, 70, 71, Ninety- one k iles, 331 72, 73, 263 Normanton , 299, 316 Kulki, 313 North-West, Mount, 27, 240, Kut pirra Hillti, 84,, 85 97 250, 261 Nungunpurananui, 68, 69 Lea Valley 324 Leichardt-elwyn Ranges, 217 Oanna, 126 Leigh's Creek, 27 Olary , 237, 244 Lettie, Lake, 47 Olary Hills, 240 Llanrheidol, 277 Ogdnadatta, 238 Lofty, Mount, 239, 245,247 Osacca 314 Longreach, 305, 306, 307, 308, Oxton Downs, 316, 317 310 Palankarinna, Lake, 78, 79, 263 Macdonald's Hill, 237 Parachilna, 26, 242 Macdonnell Ranges, 72, 238 Paratattaninna, 133 Macquarie River, 327 Paris, 283 Macumba River , 88, 127, 129, Patteramordu , 84, 353 130, 131, 132, 133, 139 Peak Range , 89, 238, 240, 242, Malkuni, 353, 354 243, 245 Malvern Hills , 304, 311 Peak Station , 37, 136, 139, 140, Manfred Downs , 306 , 308, 310 141, 217 Manfred Downs Resumption, Pera, 280, 335 306, 310, 316 Perth, 288 Margaret , Mount, 240 Petersburg, 240 Maria Creek , 312, 318, 331 Phibbs Lake, 261 Mariperanna, 68 Piacoodna, 114 Markoni, 80 83, 98, 100 Piamurakmkaninna, 129 Maxwelton ' tun, 306, 310 Piaranni, 78, 79 Melbourne , 28, 35, 200 Pinery Hill, 237 Mernimerna Pass, 25 Piram, 353 Meyer, Mount, 68 Poonaranni , 107, 120, 122, 124, Mildura, 280 125, 126 Milner's Pile, 56 Port Augusta, 23, 41, 82, 236, Minak u k a, 234 239, 251, 345 Mirra Mitta, 55, 307 Port Jackson, 209 Mitcham, 283 Portland Downs , 306, 318 Modawilpanni, 68 Port Lincoln, 249 Montrond, 330 Port Pirie,23 Morree, 314, 315 Punta Wolona, 102 Mulligan River, 216 Mungeranie, 307 Queensland , 28, 29, 30, 54, 55 Murray River , 21, 82, 149, 150, 108,111, 139,148,287 236, 245, 251, 272, 273, 280, Queensland Road, 50, 51, 55, 59 297, 298, 350 67, 74, 103, 124, 265 884 INDEX TO PLACES

Quorn, 11, 34, 52 Torrens, Lake, Basin of : Eyre's discovery of, 20, 248 Ragless Ran a 25, 239 Possible former connection to Remarkable,Mount, 23 Lake Eyre, 244 Renmark, 280 Relations of its basin to that Rockwood, 318 of Lake Eyre, 239, 243 Roma, 318, 320 Supposed horseshoe shape, 20 Rothamsted, 323 View across, 26 Roxburgh, 217 Triangle Hill, 237

Sale, 274 Ulabarinna, 114, 115 Savannah Downs, 306, 310 Unduwampa, 353 Serle, Mount, 250 Urisino, 328, 329, 330, 331 Sesbania Run, 306, 310 Shillinglaw, Mount, 240 Victoria, 27, 152, 170, 199, 202 Snowy River, 149 Victoria River, 252 South Australia, Geographical planof 236-45 Wadlakanninna, 112 Highlands of, 236, 245 Wallon, 314, 315 History of exploration in, Wanaaring, 311 246-67 Wanderapoolina, 129 Rocks of, 241 ; their origin, 239 Wankamaminna, 353, 354 Spencer's Gulf, 18, 21, 82, 150, Waralamanka, 93 236 245, 248, 249,298 Waratta, 311, 314 Spring Vale, 217 Warbreccan, 307, 311, 318 Streaky Bay, 249 Warrina, 45, 117, 140, 141, 142 Strzelecki basin, 265 Warrumandina, 234 Stuart's Creek, 148, 260, 345 Wellshot Run, 306, 311 Stuckey's Crossing, 263, 265 Westlands Run, 307, 311, 318, Sudbury River, 297 331 Sydney, 18 White Hill, 240 Whitewood Bore, 276, 314 Takikuna, Lake, 106 Whitula Run, 307, 309, 310, 311 Talbragar, 316 Williams Creek, 122 Tasmania, 152 Willochra River, 23, 25 Termination Hill, 250 Willouran-Babbage Line, 238 Thames, 296 Willouran Range, 27, 28,148, 240 Thargomindab, 277 Wimmera, 200 Thebes 281, 295 Windorah 307 Tilla-tills, 79 Winton Korth District, 306, 310 Tinaroo, 311, 314 Wood-duck Station, 135, 138, 139 Tirari, 79, 98, 102 Woolerina, 313 Todlery, Mount, 227, Wuntanoorina, 134, 135, 136 Toko Ranges, 216 Wurdulumankula, 353, 354 Toowomba, 316 Torquay, 304 Yappala Range, 25, 239 Torrens, Lake, 19, 20, 21, 22, 25, Yarrawurta, 261 26, 146, 148, 150, 236, 239, Yarroinga, 216 243, 245, 248, 249, 250, 251, Yellowstone Park, 330 252, 253, 256, 258, 2622264 Yorke Peninsula, 240 Torrens, Lake, Basin of, 236-7 Dismembered, 20, 262-3 Zetz Spa, 315

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