SHOP LIKE A CHEF at El Mercado•

by Amy S. White Carla Ten Eyck photos most major You may be wondering what my visit with Chef Perez. As cities around the all this has to do with the soon as I walked in, I was struck world, residents Connecticut food scene. The fact by the festive feel of the place: andI touristsn alike are able to is, several such markets exist The sounds of Latin music and enjoy epicurean delights at right here in the Nutmeg State. neighbors bantering in an array their neighborhood food market. One of the best examples is of Spanish dialects. The scents Part food shop, part food court, Hartford’s El Mercado, located on of spicy chicken, rice and beans, part community center, these Park Street, a street nicknamed coffee. The sights of stacks of super-markets (as opposed to “New England’s Spanish cactus leaves, heaps of fresh the chains we Main Street” because of its papayas, brightly colored flags are used to) overflow with an predominately Latino population. of Central and South American abundance of regional specialty Chef Carlos Perez, chef/owner of countries adorning the aisles. It foods. Their fresh fruits and La Palette Bakery in Watertown was an amalgam of Latin culture vegetables, spices, meats and and Birchwood Catering Co. in fifteen minutes from my house. seafoods – as well as stalls that Woodbury, met me there to walk serve prepared snacks and hot through and talk I must have looked overwhelmed, meals – all highlight the cuisine about what it means to him both because Chef invited me to of their particular culture. The as a chef and someone with sit at one of the dozen or so French Market in New Orleans. Latin American roots (he is half booths that lined the outskirts Testaccio Market in Rome. Cuban). of the market where we could Central Market Hall in Budapest. chat before touring the aisles. La Boqueria in Barcelona. You get Before I continue, I must admit We were seated in a food court the idea. Their popularity is such that although I’ve lived in CT of sorts, although I don’t want that more and more of them, of since 2002 and consider myself to draw any comparisons to all shapes (the cornucopia of a “foodie,” this was my first visit something you’d find at the mall. Markthal, Rotterdam) and sizes to El Mercado. It sure as heck Before us were four separate (the 25-acre FICO Eataly World in won’t be my last; in fact, I went vendors serving the cuisines of Bologna), are opening every year. back again only three days after different nations – El Tepeyac CONNECTICUT CHEFS ALSO RECOMMEND:

A DONG their boneless spareribs are some of the best. Some 160 Shield Street, advice to newcomers – have West Hartford Google on hand, don’t be 860.953.8903 intimidated by the vast adongsupermarket.webs.com varieties, be open minded Hours: Monday-Sunday, and always try to grab 9:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m. something new!”

Good to know: Large Similar CT markets: parking lot, accepts credit Oriental Pantry, 485 Orange cards Street, New Haven; Omi, 786 Enfield Street, Enfield. A Dong carries a varied selection of groceries, cookware and gifts from all ROLY POLY BAKERY over Asia, including China, 587 Main Street, New Britain Japan, Korea, Vietnam and 860.229.5109 Thailand. From kitchen No website available staples such as sesame oil, Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, spices, sauces and noodles 6:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.; to exotic vegetables and Sunday 6:00 a.m. to 2:00 produce, this supermarket p.m.; closed Monday. has been bringing hard- to-find Asian products to Good to know: Street and the Greater Hartford area private lot parking, accepts since 1989. Up front you’ll credit cards find prepared items such as roast pork, roast duck, Tucked inside the and banh mi sandwiches as neighborhood in New Britain well as a butcher readying known as “Little Poland” Mexican, El Gran Dominicano, Authentico Sabor he explained why he loves this place so much – in you’ll find Roly Poly Bakery, Peruano, and Antojitos Columbiano. Each were a word, inspiration. He said, “We, as chefs, are and packaging snout-to-tail “The sounds of meats. There’s a bakery which is a Polish bakery, deli, serving hot and cold dishes cafeteria-style, on paper constantly trying to find the newest thing, the counter with abundant and specialty shop not to plates and trays “for here,” and in the usual take-out newest flavor to mess around with. Markets like sweets, fresh seafood, be confused with the rolled containers “to go.” I didn’t eat that afternoon, but this offer those flavors. I can come here, pick out frozen goods, and all types sandwich chain. Roly Poly is famous for their having returned only a few days later, I bought from ten things I’ve never seen before and try to create of Asian drinks and snacks. Latin music rye bread, pastries, donuts Chef April Gibson of The North the Dominican stall what was the most succulent something new.” and other baked goods, as roast pork with incredibly perfect crackling I’ve ever House in Avon says, “The and thing I love about this market well as their wide selection had, served alongside a mound of rice and beans, One of Chef Perez’s favorite sections of this neighbors is how many opportunities of deli meats and cheeses. with sautéed sweet plantains, a bottled water and particular market is the produce section. As there are for self-education. Chocolates, canned goods, a coconut soda for a ridiculously-cheap-for-what-I- we walked through it, he pointed out fruits and There’s just always so coffee and condiments bantering in an array imported from Poland line the received $11.00. vegetables I don’t find where I usually shop – fresh much to experiment with. Asian flavors have the most shelves. But Roly Poly is best okra (I settled for frozen just last week when I made known for their fresh, hot This section of El Mercado alone made me realize gumbo), prickly pears, stalks of sugar cane, and of Spanish dialects” incredible personalities. Dried fish, quail eggs, unique Polish meals like kielbasa, what I’d been missing all these years. But that was nopal, the cactus the prickly pear grows out of and produce like rambutan, lotus pierogi and golabki (stuffed before Chef and I started talking more in depth and which he shreds into a slaw. I noticed a package of root, and lemongrass, even cabbage rolls) that taste certain uncommon kitchen like they come straight out tools can be found here, and of babcia’s kitchen. As Chef CHEFS ALSO RECOMMEND (continued):

Matt Wick puts it, “I like TANGIERS to shop there because it INTERNATIONAL reminds me of the time I MARKET spent in Europe. The market 550 Farmington Avenue, is very transportive. As a Hartford cook, it’s inspiring to be 860.233.8168 surrounded by a culture tangiersmarket.com you may know little about. Hours: Monday-Saturday It teaches you to respect 10:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.; tradition but also opens closed Sunday. up a lot more possibilities for creativity. My favorite Good to know: Parking lot, time of year to shop there accepts credit cards is now, around the holidays. They deck out hard. Not Family-owned and operated, to be missed there for me Tangiers International is the pickle section and Market has delivered the the mushrooms – porcini, flavors of the Mediterranean chanterelles, honey and Middle East to the mushrooms, all kinds of Hartford area since 1995. wild mushrooms that are Olive oil from Lebanon, otherwise difficult to find spices from India, cheeses or ridiculously expensive from Bulgaria, grains from in specialty stores (my Egypt, coffee from Turkey – favorite is the porcini in these are just a few of the the mushroom-shaped jar). international products you A home cook should shop will find in this specialty there to up their meat and shop. But before or after you cheese platter game. The shop, you must sit at the variety of ready-to-eat counter for the true taste of smoked meats and other Tangiers, a plate of stuffed charcuterie is stunning. grape leaves, spinach and My advice is to go without feta pie, or their fabulously any time constraints and famous falafel served with just wander. Get lost in it tahini dressing. Chef Tyler all. You will find something Anderson says, “They have delicious.” a great quality selection of Middle Eastern cooking Similar CT markets: ingredients. Unfortunately, Adams Polish Foods, 205 I have never been to the Talcottville Road, Vernon; Middle East, but somehow Polmag Deli, 820 State this place transports me Street, New Haven. there. Most importantly they have an amazing lunch counter where you can get some of the most ridiculously good Middle Eastern cooking in the state. The hummus ‘omg’, the baklava ‘dear Lord’ and the chickpea stew is rad. After years of being in the restaurant business I can CHEFS ALSO RECOMMEND (continued): what looked like green flower buds. Chef explained they’re called loroco and with a taste that’s similar to broccoli, walk into an operation and refrigerated section. Most they are often used as an herb for flavoring rice, soups tell you if the owners love customers rave about and stews throughout Central America. what they do, and this family, the frozen section, with they love what they do and samosas (baked or fried it shows. They are amazingly savory pastries), curries, We continued toward the back of the store into the friendly and you feel like you pizza made with naan (flat freezer section. Here Chef Perez turned my attention are part of their family when bread), and much more toward the wide selection of fruit purees such as you’re there.” to bring complicated yet tamarind, guava and papaya which the New York Times- flavorful dishes to your table featured pastry chef often uses to make exotically- Similar CT markets: with ease and convenience. flavored tarts and sorbets. Some of these products Saeed’s Market, 464 Ocean Patel also carries Indian Avenue, New London; Dunya, snacks, sweets, and a great can’t be found anywhere else, he pointed out, as the 584 Plank Road, Waterbury selection of incense. Chef larger chain stores and food distributors pick and choose Robert Dickensheets of 21 items that appeal more to the masses rather than carry Oak in Manchester relies specialty ingredients such as these. on Patel because, as he 171 E. Spencer Street, states, “They carry a wide That conversation continued as we hit the meat Manchester assortment of Indian/Asian 860.645.6100 groceries. I go specifically department, yet another area of El Mercado that Chef 330 Connecticut Avenue, for the many pulses, grains, Perez highly recommends. As I checked out the cases Norwalk and beans; the spices which filled with beef tongue, goat meat, tripe, pigs’ feet and 203.939.1777 are always super fresh due ears, oxtail and more, Chef spoke passionately about patelbros.com to going through inventory these cuts: “They do their own butchery here, and it’s Hours: Monday-Sunday 10:00 quickly, and for some of the whole-animal style, so there’s a lot of things you can’t a.m. to 8:30 p.m. produce -- okra, eggplant Good to know: Large varieties, pomegranate and find anywhere else. They try to maximize, to use all the parking lot, accepts credit white melon, to name a few. parts of the animal. That idea of minimizing waste, paying cards For those scared to cook respect to the animal, to the ingredient, that’s a big part Indian, they have curry spice With two locations in blends for $1 that make it Connecticut, this grocery easy to learn and explore. chain aims to be the primary They can answer questions destination for customers about the cuisine if you are “The sights of stacks of looking for Indian and South- curious. You should try one Central Asian food products. [new] vegetable each visit There’s an extensive variety and grow your palate. Also cactus leaves, of rice and other grains as make sure to get one of the well as peas and lentils - Indian popsicles – I love the staples in Indian cooking. heaps of saffron pistachio cashew fresh Huge bags of spices such (sooo good!).” as bay leaves, cardamom pods, and peppercorns plus Similar CT markets: Royal papayas, brightly spice mixes like curries Indian Grocery Store, 560 and masalas are offered at New Park Avenue, West reasonable prices. Lassi (a Hartford; Sunshine Market, colored flags of Central milk-based drink), kulfi (ice 136 Simsbury Road, Avon cream), paneer (cheese) and ghee (clarified butter) and South American are readily found in the countries adorning the aisles.” CHEFS ALSO RECOMMEND (continued):

DIFIORE RAVIOLI SHOP Good to know: Parking lot, “Some of 397 Cromwell Avenue, accepts credit cards Rocky Hill, CT The Crown Market has been 860.257.2872 serving Greater Hartford’s these products difioreraviolishop.com community with high-quality Hours: Monday-Saturday kosher groceries, deli items, 9:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.; catering, and fresh meats for can’t be found Sunday 10:00 a.m. to 5 p.m. over 75 years. A multi-million Good to know: Products also dollar renovation breathed available at some farmer’s new life into this long- anywhere markets, parking lot, accepts standing and well-cherished credit cards institution which reopened in January of 2017. While still else” For three generations, the a small supermarket, Crown DiFiore family has been has all the departments you’d of the heritage as well. Using these cuts honors providing its customers expect in a larger grocery the history of cooking.” Suddenly he looked with fresh pasta, homemade store and has added a café sauces, prepared foods and wistful, then mentioned his favorite childhood area where customers can other Italian specialties. enjoy prepared foods from dish, a braised oxtail his father used to make. “It’s They use solid brass dies to the market’s new Hot Food nice to see people here buying these things and ensure their pastas come Bar, Soup and Salad Bar, still using the old techniques,” he said. out so perfectly that over Mediterranean Olive Bar, Our tour continued through the aisles where we a dozen of the area’s finest and even sushi and pizza spied Chef Boyardee near Goya guanabana nectar, restaurants use pasta from offerings. Chef Ben Dubow of DiFiore, including Carbone’s, Kool-Aid packets alongside horchata mix, pepper Manchester’s Bistro on Main the Max Restaurant Group, relies on Crown for his kosher pastes in all shades of red and orange, each of Salute and Rizzuto’s. A varied catering jobs and for his own which Chef said had its own distinct flavor, and selection of specialty olive “soul-nourishing” cooking. He even a jar of something that neither of us could oils and vinegars, as well says, “I go to Crown for both identify. I commented on the lower prices of the as Italian baked goods and stuff you can’t get anywhere products I was familiar with, and our conversation imported items, complete else but also for better quality the shopping experience. The turned to the role these types of markets have ingredients. Their white fish shop also offers sandwiches salad and smoked salmon, in their communities. “Where these markets are and pasta dishes to go, has a those are as close to New in the neighborhoods,” Chef noted, “they serve catering menu, and was voted York City quality as you can to keep the culture alive within this melting pot Connecticut’s Favorite Small get outside of the city, and of America. But also, on some level, they help Business in 2014. that’s my ‘soul food.’ The knishes and deli sandwiches keep the economy alive as well. People who live Similar CT markets: are not only a bargain but here have a place to come where they can buy Carmela’s Pasta Shop, totally off the hook. And here’s 338 Silas Deane Highway, inexpensive cuts of meat and fresher, cheaper a tip – kosher meat includes Wethersfield; Liuzzi Gourmet specialty ingredients and go home to make dinner brine, so when you don’t Food Market, 322 State for their families.” have time to brine your meat Street, North Haven yourself, buy kosher!” Rush hour was approaching and although we Similar CT markets: could have talked for much longer, it was time to THE CROWN Westville Kosher Market, 95 head home. I asked Chef Perez one last question MARKET AND CAFÉ Amity Road, New Haven; Amity – why should someone like me, someone who 2471 Albany Avenue, Meat Center, 24 Lucy Street, has never been to El Mercado before, drive into West Hartford Woodbridge the city to come and check it out? Without 860.236.1965 hesitation, he said, “We are so lucky here in thecrownmarket.com Hours: Monday-Thursday 8:00 a.m. to 8:00 p.m.; Friday 7:00 a.m. until sundown; Sunday 8:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.

“...these markets serve to keep the culture alive within this melting pot of America.”

Connecticut where within a ten- or fiteen- minute zone. To try new things. To open up the gates to test through Saturday, 8:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. and Sunday lot located on the side of the building. The helpful drive we can shop at El Mercado and in another few out new flavors they haven’t been exposed to yet.” 8:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. The food vendors keep similar staff is willing to answer all questions but it may minutes we can go to A Dong (an Asian specialty hours but sometimes close slightly earlier. Credit be handy to have Google open to look things up. For And that’s advice I plan on following. store in West Hartford). I always encourage people cards are accepted although cash is preferred at more information, call (860) 247-6449. The market to come to these places not just because they’re El Mercado Marketplace is located at 704 Park the food vendors; there is an ATM on the premises. does not have a website. interesting, but to push people out of their comfort Street in Hartford. The market is open Monday There is street parking as well as a small parking