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Seville the Small: Zafra the Great There is a place in Spain known as Zafra They call it an ancient land, Powerful in arms, and Of bountiful land...” ZAFRA Roman Text And Its Parador V ery little is known of the origins of Zafra, although much is imagined. What is known is that the region was inhabited by Lusitanians and Vettones in pre-Roman times, peoples who had a communal economy. There is some evidence that this economy was largely based on cattle and goat and sheep herding. They also had horses for war and proved rebellious and difficult to conquer, as the Romans soon found out when they invaded the peninsula. Legend has it that the Vettones raised a breed of very fast horses, said to be sired by the Zephyr wind. Human sacrifices were common, at least amongst the Lusitanians, and were linked to rituals of divination. The historian Appian wrote that at the funeral of Viriato, who had fought here against the Romans, many victims were sacrificed, some of them possibly human. The town had its beginnings thanks to its strategic position along the Via de la Plata, the most important road in the west of Roman Hispania. This route would serve to transport both cultures and goods from present-day Huelva up to Gijón. But Zafra truly came into its own towards the end of the Arab empire under the taifa kingdoms (11th century). Ancient Sjara arose out of the defensive needs between the kingdoms of Seville and Badajoz. A primitive castle was built at this time in the Castellar Mountains, its majestic ramparts standing alone and dominating the plain. A famous Arab geographer, Mohamed Al-Quisí, wrote in the 13th century that “Zafra still has its walls and the remains of its palaces. It is inhabited by only a few individuals and their families, although it is a sizeable town…” The fortress town remained under Muslim rule for almost two centuries and would suffer frequent political upheavals and wars over the following centuries. After an early fleeting conquest by King Alfonso IX of Leon, it fell to the Arab taifas again, and was in Muslim hands until Fernando III finally won it back for Christendom in the mid-13th century. He them set about repopulating the town. Chronicles of the time show that the Muslims and Christians lived ZAFRA AND ITS PARADOR 1 together in peace, preserving and then counts, and were finally granted the title extending their trade and craft traditions, of Dukes of Feria. as well as their habits and customs. Testimony of this are the valuable One of the Figueroa family, Lorenzo, who examples of Mudejar and Morisco was baptized “the Magnificent” by the local buildings which can still be seen today. people, was responsible for the town’s lasting major cultural, commercial, religious, and The town would experience even more urban expansion and development. anxiety as a result of the political maneuvering of various sovereigns, who Lorenzo Suárez de Figueroa built the town used it more than once as payment to walls. The fortified palace that is today home noble armies of the Reconquest in return to the Parador served as the home for his for favors in war. court. He founded the Hospital of Santiago and completed the Convent of Santa Clara. Zafra finally found permanent lords and masters in the early 15th century at And so, from the end of the Middle Ages, the hands of the Suárez de Figueroa Zafra became one of Extremadura’s most family of Galicia. They were first lords, flourishing towns. A Renaissance Palace, Witness to the Reconquest “This fortress, built on the orders of the noble knight Lorenzo Suárez de Figueroa, member of the council of our Lord the King ,was completed in the year of our Savior Jesus Christ, 1443…” Texto de la Época rom the outside, the building looks more like a military F building than a palace. However, the walled enclosure carries the solemn grandeur typical of medieval construction with grace. It is built of slate and brick masonry, presumably by Arab master stone masons, and topped with pyramid-shaped battlements. Impressive towers, nearly twenty-five meters high, stand majestically at the four corners. Four more towers defend the main entrance and sides. Presiding over all is the tower keep, which guards the approach from the east. It is close to thirty meters high and twelve meters in diameter. The numerous coats of arms decorating the hallway of today’s main entrance remind visitors that it is the home of the noble and illustrious Suárez de Figueroa family which welcomes them. 2 ZAFRA AND ITS PARADOR The inscription “Figueroa y Manuel” can be seen under the Duke Don Gomes, who had ties to the court of Felipe II, met the horseshoe-arch-framed Morisco window with its marble column. This architect Herrera as the latter was working on El Escorial. He asked commemorates the union of these two families, creating a noble Herrera to carry out some renovations on the medieval castle. The lineage that would give birth first to counts and eventually to the results of this work are the exquisite courtyard and the Renaissance Dukes of Feria, by the grace of cloister, exceptional delights for visitors’ pleasure. King Felipe II. At about this time, the delicate This renovation opened up what had previously been Renaissance features that can still hermetically sealed walls and let in the light, creating a be seen today were added to the space for views and customs more in keeping with ancient fortress, made possible by court than wartime. family connections between the Lords of Feria and other famous The visitor will be pleasantly surprised, maybe even names, such as the Manriquez perplexed, by the Parador’s halls and rooms, such is the family, the Garcilaso de la Vega artistic wealth which the building has guarded and now family, and Infante Juan Manuel. displays. And so the ducal court became a gathering place for holy and The chapel has a Gothic-Mudejar dome set against a acclaimed men of letters and blue background and a wooden coffered ceiling. The so- mysticism: Saint John of Avila, called Golden Room is decorated with the coats of arms Gregorio Silvestre, Cristóbal de of the Dukes of Feria. The room which is today used as Mesa, and others. the bar has a ceiling in the pure Mudejar style. Many are the pages of history which have been written in this ancient fortress. The palace has borne witness to wars and noble strategies. It is a birthplace and home of arts and literature. Among famous locals we can count Espronceda, who was born in Almendralejo, and Zurburán, from Fuente de Cantos, whose work can be admired on the altarpiece in the Collegiate Church of La Candelaria. Even Hernán Cortés stayed here before departing to conquer and colonize Mexico. A Medieval and Renaissance Market 1. Plaza Grande (Square). The center of the noble area of the town. 2. Plaza Chica (Square). Former marketplace. 3. Law Courts. Neo-classical in style. 4. La Casa Grande. Renaissance style. 5. Collegiate Church of La Candelaria. Magnificent Zurburán paintings. 6. Convent of Santa Clara. Founded by the first Lord of Feria. 7 7. Church of Santa Marina. Today an exhibition 11 9 and conference hall. 5 6 8. Hospital of Santiago. Founded by the Duke of 1 4 Feria in 1446. 9. Church of El Rosario. Valuable 16th-century 3 Christ statue. 2 8 10. Convent of Santa Catalina. Mudejar coffered 10 ceiling. 11. Former Convent of La Cruz. Now the Town Hall. ZAFRA AND ITS PARADOR 3 A Culinary Mosaic afra’s cuisine includes most of Extremadura’s dishes, produce of the meadows: thistle, truffles, asparagus, and an Z blending the tastes and customs that have come down abundance of wild mushrooms, close to a thousand varieties. Game is through history with the wide variety rich and varied, and is prepared in many of natural products available. different ways: hare, rabbit, partridge, duck, pigeon, wild boar, deer… But the kitchens of Zafra also contain aromas and flavors from the neighboring areas of The area’s cheeses and wines are also worthy Lusitania and Andalusia. of mention. Wines such as Matanegra and Riberas del Guadiana are universally The rural traditions of the Mesta (an appreciated, nor should we forget the names association of sheep and cattle farmers) are Montanchez, Cañamero or Tierra de reflected in such humble, yet exquisite, dishes Barros. as migas, breadcrumbs fried with pork loin and fatty bacon from Tierra de Barros. This dish is Also popular are the excellent liqueurs are especially good for breakfast. made from the region’s typical products: acorns, almonds, cherries, currants, etc. Casseroles, soups, stews and other dishes also reflect the region’s rural past and usually For a wonderful end to a lovely meal, include lamb or goat as the main ingredient. sample some of the area’s wide range of Dishes such as Mondongo Blood Sausage, Oxtail, and the modest desserts, mainly Moorish, Jewish or convent in origin. Honey, and but sophisticated Chanfaina, made with a surprising combination of especially holm-oak honey, is a common ingredient. liver, lung, heart, and kidneys. The Parador offers an excellent and Pork, Iberian above all, is an essential carefully-prepared selection of many of these element of any table in the Zafra area, at any local dishes. time of the day. There are modern recipes like Pork Tenderloin Salad, or more Although the menu does change according traditional offerings such as Zurrapa, made to season, some of the regular dishes with liver and lard, or Almoraque, an featuring on our menus are: Macarraca (a excellent dish made with pork ribs, onions, cold soup similar to Gazpacho), and peppers.

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