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Rhetoric of Imagery: Gendering and Consumption Throughout Interwar American Advertisment

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Rhetoric of Imagery: Gendering and Consumption Throughout Interwar American Advertisment University of Central Florida STARS Electronic Theses and Dissertations, 2004-2019 2017 Rhetoric of Imagery: Gendering and Consumption Throughout Interwar American Advertisment Natalie Delgado University of Central Florida Part of the Public Relations and Advertising Commons, Social History Commons, and the United States History Commons Find similar works at: https://stars.library.ucf.edu/etd University of Central Florida Libraries http://library.ucf.edu This Masters Thesis (Open Access) is brought to you for free and open access by STARS. It has been accepted for inclusion in Electronic Theses and Dissertations, 2004-2019 by an authorized administrator of STARS. For more information, please contact [email protected]. STARS Citation Delgado, Natalie, "Rhetoric of Imagery: Gendering and Consumption Throughout Interwar American Advertisment" (2017). Electronic Theses and Dissertations, 2004-2019. 5650. https://stars.library.ucf.edu/etd/5650 RHETORIC OF IMAGERY: GENDERING IDENTITY AND CONSUMPTION THROUGHOUT INTERWAR AMERICAN ADVERTISEMENT by NATALIE M. DELGADO B.S. University of Central Florida, 2011 A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Master of Arts in History in the Department of History in the College of Arts and Humanities at the University of Central Florida Orlando, Florida Fall TerM 2017 Major Professor: Edward Dandrow © 2017 Natalie Delgado ii ABSTRACT Interwar American advertising rose alongside new levels of hygiene, personal appearance, and technology in order to sell their products to target audiences. Despite the abundance of scholarship on media and gender, few studies have examined the gendered techniques through which interwar advertisers communicated with consumers in response to changing social norMs and economic stability. The question this thesis explores is how these changes and communication shifted in response to consumer culture and how advertisers utilized early market research and persuasion techniques to target their audiences. Building on the studies of gender, consumption, and identity, this thesis examines the relationship between American advertisers and their targeted male and female consumers between 1920 and 1940. By exploring how admen and women within Madison Avenue’s top advertising agencies utilized psychology and consumer feedback to develop a two-way comMunication with middle-classed consumers, this thesis draws from social, cultural, and gendered studies to understand how advertisers coMMunicated with and tried to appeal to their target audiences. Utilizing both copy and imagery as sources of communication, this study examines every issue of the top circulating American magazines between 1920 and 1940 to explain how advertisers rose with early consumer behavioral psychology and new standards of sanitation and hygiene, how a growing consumer culture and American notion of identity and gender affected the selling of selfhood and personal beauty products, and how gendered media representations and persuasion techniques helped advertisers sell modernity and individuality to readers. This analysis surveys specific advertising iii campaigns before, during, and after the Stock Market Crash to follow shifts in appeals to masculinity and femininity in response to changing social norms. By delving into this intersection of gender, media, and identity, this study finds various nuances through which advertisers and their audiences communicated in and alongside a growing consumer culture. iv TABLE OF CONTENTS LIST OF FIGURES .................................................................................................................................................. vi CHAPTER 1: HYGIENE AND PSYCHOLOGY: UNDERSTANDING THE CONSUMER IN A CHANGING AMERICAN LANDSCAPE ............................................................................................................. 1 20th Century Inquiries into the Individual ........................................................................................................... 16 Gaining LegitiMacy: The Promise of Science ................................................................................................. 19 Changing Ideals of Personal Hygiene .................................................................................................................... 23 Selling Clean: Antiperspirant, Mouthwash, and Soap ................................................................................ 29 CHAPTER 2: PERSUASION AND PERFORMANCE: BRANDING GENDER & IDENTITY ........... 49 The Consumer in a ComModity Culture ............................................................................................................... 49 The PerforMed Individual: Selling Selfhood ....................................................................................................... 55 Constructing Gender: Purchase and PerforMance as Identity ............................................................... 59 Femininity, Masculinity, and the Ideal Consumer ....................................................................................... 62 Buying Beauty: Hair, Face, and Body ................................................................................................................ 66 CHAPTER 3: CREATING THE ADS: MEDIA REPRESENTATIONS AND PERSUASION TECHNIQUES ....................................................................................................................................................... 90 One Family, Two Spheres: Public and Private, Masculine and Feminine ............................................... 93 WoMen in the Public Sphere ................................................................................................................................ 95 Enticing Purchases: Persuasion Techniques in AdvertiseMent ................................................................. 99 First IMpression ForMula: Public Opinion as Fear .................................................................................. 101 Media Representations of Masculinity and Femininity .............................................................................. 103 LiMited Representations: the Housewife, the Flapper, the BusinessMan, and the Hero ......... 108 LIST OF REFERENCES .................................................................................................................................... 122 v LIST OF FIGURES FIGURE 1. ORDORONO, “THE MOST HUMILIATING MOMENT IN MY LIFE,” HARPER’S BAZAAR, AUGUST 1920. ............................. 31 FIGURE 2. ODORONO, “HE CANNOT TELL YOU—BUT YOU HAVE A RIGHT TO KNOW” HARPER’S BAZAAR, OCTOBER 1920. ..... 33 FIGURE 3. IMMAC, “AND SHE DOESN’T EVEN KNOW.” VOGUE, APRIL 15, 1923. .................................................................................. 35 FIGURE 4. LISTERINE, “HE NEVER KNEW WHY” HARPER’S BAZAAR, MARCH 1924. ............................................................................ 37 FIGURE 5. LISTERINE, “HER HUSBAND WOULDN’T TELL HER” HARPER’S BAZAAR, JULY 1924. ........................................................ 39 FIGURE 6. LISTERINE. “GO OUT WITH HIM? NOT ME!” LIFE MAGAZINE, JULY 1939. ......................................................................... 41 FIGURE 7. CRÈME OIL. “PERSONAL CHARM,” SATURDAY EVENING POST, FEBRUARY 7, 1920............................................................ 43 FIGURE 8. PALMOLIVE. “WOULD YOUR HUSBAND MARRY YOU AGAIN?” THE SATURDAY EVENING POST, APRIL 9, 1921.. ......... 45 FIGURE 9. PALMOLIVE. “WOULD YOU BE HIS CHOICE FOR FIRST DANCE?” SATURDAY EVENING POST. JANUARY 5, 1924. ......... 46 FIGURE 10. CAMAY. “ARE YOU THE KIND OF GIRL MEN WANT TO MARRY?” SATURDAY EVENING POST, NOVEMBER 28, 1931. .................................................................................................................................................................................................................... 47 FIGURE 11. WOODBURY. “STRANGERS’ EYES KEEN AND CRITICAL,” HARPER’S BAZAAR, JANUARY 1922. ....................................... 69 FIGURE 12. WOODBURY. “NOTHING QUITE EFFACES THAT MOMENTARY DISAPPOINTMENT, ”HARPER’S BAZAAR, MAY 1922. 70 FIGURE 13. WOODBURY. “ALL AROUND YOU PEOPLE ARE JUDGING YOU SILENTLY, HARPER’S BAZAAR, DECEMBER 1922. ........ 73 FIGURE 14. POND’S. “GET AT THAT FAULTY UNDER SKIN,” HARPER’S BAZAAR, JANUARY 1937. ...................................................... 76 FIGURE 15. POND’S. “NOW—THIS NEW CREAM BRINGS TO WOMEN THE ACTIVE SKIN-VITAMIN,” HARPER’S BAZAAR, NOVEMBER 1937. .................................................................................................................................................................................. 78 FIGURE 16. COLGATE SHAVING CREAM. “COLGATES SOFTENS THE BEARD AT THE BASE,” TIME MAGAZINE 1925. ...................... 80 FIGURE 17. WILLIAMS SHAVING CREAM. “CONDEMNED…WITHOUT A HEARING,” SATURDAY EVENING POST, APRIL 7, 1928.. 82 FIGURE 18. WILLIAMS SHAVING CREAM. “OUT INTO THE WORLD WITH A MIND THAT’S FIT AND A FACE THAT’S FIT,” TIME MAGAZINE, JUNE 1931. ......................................................................................................................................................................... 84 FIGURE 19. VITALIS. “GOOD-LOOKING HAIR IS A SOCIAL ASSET,” LIFE MAGAZINE, NOVEMBER 30, 1936. ..................................... 87 FIGURE 20. VITALIS. “GOOD-LOOKING HAIR IS YOUR AID IN EVERY ENTERPRISE,” TIME MAGAZINE, APRIL 26, 1937................ 88 FIGURE 21. PACKARD.
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