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Contemporary Dandies: the Behavioral Characteristics of Korean Male Consumers in Fashion Multi-Brand Stores and Tailor Shops☆

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Contemporary Dandies: the Behavioral Characteristics of Korean Male Consumers in Fashion Multi-Brand Stores and Tailor Shops☆ JBR-09301; No of Pages 5 Journal of Business Research xxx (2016) xxx–xxx Contents lists available at ScienceDirect Journal of Business Research Contemporary dandies: The behavioral characteristics of Korean male consumers in fashion multi-brand stores and tailor shops☆ Tae Youn Kim a,⁎, Yoon-Jung Lee b a Research Center for Human Ecology, Korea University, College of Education Rm325, 145 Anam-ro, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul, Republic of Korea b Department of Home Economics Education, Korea University, Uncho-Useoun Hall Rm610, 145 Anam-ro, Seongbuk-gu, Seoul, Republic of Korea article info abstract Article history: This study provides emic and etic interpretations of the dandyism tendency of contemporary male fashion Received 1 August 2016 consumers who use multi-brand stores and/or tailor shops. Based on in-depth interviews, the study explores Received in revised form 1 October 2016 six major consumer characteristics in the context of dandyism: appearance recognized as a form of social Accepted 1 October 2016 competency, the pursuit of distinction from others and refusal to conform to existing clothing norms, the estab- Available online xxxx lishment of one's own aesthetic rules, an explorative and academic approach to fashion brands and how to wear them, aesthetic efforts to pursue refinement, and a perfectionist tendency toward looks. The study also offers the promise of more effective and precise market segmentation analysis relating to specific retail formats or services. © 2016 Published by Elsevier Inc. 1. Introduction consumers consider appearance and style to be an indication of social competency, defy popular trends (Jung & Lee, 2011; Lertwannawit & The South Korean fashion market has long been regarded as a test Mandhachitara, 2012; Levíllain, 1991; Stokburger-Sauer & Teichmann, market for many top global fashion brands. Now, Korea's fashion market 2013), approach fashion from academic and theoretical stances, and has reached maturity, with a number of different brands in competition maintain their own meticulous and detailed rules about what defines with each other (Jin, Kandagal, & Jung, 2012). As Korean consumers' a stylish appearance (Breward, 1999, 2000; Levíllain, 1991; Walden, demand for high quality branded products continuously increases, tra- 2002). In this sense, analyzing contemporary Korean male consumer ditional retailers seek unique imported brands for their selective con- behavior based on dandyism as an analysis framework may help to un- sumers (Jung, 2012; Lim, 2011). In particular, the male fashion market derstand this new consumer culture. for branded apparel products has grown noticeably over the past decade, and leading retailers and national apparel brands have made 2. Theoretical background considerable efforts to satisfy the increasingly diverse desires of Korean male consumers (Kim & Park, 2016; Hwang, 2010). Some leading na- 2.1. Popularization of male fashion multi-brand stores and tailor shops in tional brands employ a multi-brand strategy for their retail stores Korea (Kim, 2008), offering not only their own products but also imported or domestic designer brands that fit their brand concept and provide va- In the early 2000s, fashion multi-brand stores (i.e., select shops) riety to the customers (Eom & Pyo, 2014; Jung, 2012, Kim & Kim, 2004; were established in Korea to draw consumers (Kim, 2007, 2008; Kim Kim & Park, 2016; Kwon, Chang, & Kim, 2010). Another trend is the in- &Hwang,2011). Select shops focusing on luxury import brands or pre- creasing demand for custom-made suits. More Korean male consumers mium jeans started this trend (Kim & Kim, 2004; Lee & Jo, 2007). High prefer buy suits customized to their taste and lifestyle at tailor shops prices made these shops unaffordable for most consumers. In response, rather than buying ready-made suits (Jung, 2013; Kim, 2011; Kim & large domestic department stores and major fashion companies actively Lee, 2015; Park, 2010). began introducing fashion multi-brand stores between 2004 and 2008 Contemporary Korean male customers' behavioral characteristics (Kim & Hwang, 2011; Kim & Kim, 2004), and the revenues for these are similar to the European dandies in the late 18th Century in many re- stores have increased from below KRW 30 billion in 1997 to KRW 180 spects. In addition to their strong interest in fashion and grooming billion by 2006 (Kim, 2008). Select shops and multi-brand shops are rel- (Breward, 1999, 2000; Lee & Lee, 2013; Sung, 2009), these male atively new retailing forms in the Korean fashion market, albeit a form with limited popularity due to high prices (C.K. Kim, 2010; Lee & Jo, 2007). By the late 2010s, fashion multi-brand stores selling goods with- ☆ This research was supported by a Korea University grant. ⁎ Corresponding author. in reach of the middle class emerged, with an estimated market size of E-mail addresses: [email protected] (T.Y. Kim), [email protected] (Y.-J. Lee). KRW 420 billion (Ham, 2011). With continuous development and http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2016.10.027 0148-2963/© 2016 Published by Elsevier Inc. Please cite this article as: Kim, T.Y., & Lee, Y.-J., Contemporary dandies: The behavioral characteristics of Korean male consumers in fashion multi- brand stores and tailor shops, Journal of Business Research (2016), http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2016.10.027 2 T.Y. Kim, Y.-J. Lee / Journal of Business Research xxx (2016) xxx–xxx expansion, fashion multi-brand stores have potential to become a key Table 1 distribution channel. Main characteristics of dandyism. In addition to fashion multi-brand stores, tailor shops offering cus- Characteristic tom-made suits also are now significant retailers attracting male Breward (2000) Through unique sartorial expression, challenges the consumers in South Korea (Park, 2010). Handmade suits are favored aristocratic prerogative affecting the direction of not only by Korean male consumers in their 40s and 50s, but also youn- fashionable taste ger men in their 20s and 30s (Kim, 2011). The rising demand for one-of- Pursues fashionable novelties and superior taste a-kind custom-made suits is an emerging trend. Surprisingly, little Controls one's self-image and maintains a self-conscious attitude research has been conducted on the recently changing consumption Cho (2012) Pursues a distinction and uniqueness that stand against practices among South Korean male consumers. conformism through appearance Makes oneself aesthetically pleasing through an elegant and refined appearance and distinction based on nonconformity against the bourgeois look 2.2. Dandyism as a conceptual framework Favardin and Resists an elegant life but pursues good taste Bouëxière (1988) Represents best appearance with self-esteem by refusing In order to establish an a priori conceptual framework that provides old-fashioned and ordinary styles adequate descriptors of the purchase behavior of male consumers Pursues the spirit of challenge and simple leisure described above, this study applies the dandy subculture concept, a Ko (2010) Respects norms and customs but pursues originality by not fi conforming to them group of men who are identi able by their way of dressing, fashion Creates beauty through attire, makeup, etc. for a perfect identity, or common behavior in a cultural context. Dandyism is an ap- look propriate methodological framework, because the concept's character- Forms an independence according to one's own rules istics emerged during the initial data coding. The themes emerging Walden (2002) Resists the old aristocracy through by simplifying and refining its extravagant clothes from the qualitative data resonate with the characteristic factors of dan- Pursues originality in fashion and self-conscious dyism (i.e., the subculture's rebellious tendencies) (Breward, 2000; Cho, appearance 2012; Favardin & Bouëxière, 1988; Levíllain, 1991) and male involve- ment in fashion and unique sartorial style, which translates to contem- porary consumption culture (Breward, 2000, 2008; Cho, 2012; Ko, 2010; Walden, 2002). 3. Methods Dandy refers to a polished or stylish appearance, was introduced by a young British man named George Bryan Brummell (hereinafter Brum- Among male consumers, men in their 20s through 40s are the main mell, 1778–1840) in the late 18th Century (Barbey d'Aurevilly, 1845/ clientele for fashion multi-brand stores and tailor shops (Kang, 2013; 1977). Under George IV's rule between 1810 and 1820, Brummell influ- Kim, 2011; Park, 2010). In-depth interviews were conducted with 12 ences the fashion of the period by expressing his belief in his superiority male consumers in this age group who use these two types of store. over the bourgeois class through a new restrained and simple fashion Snowball sampling was used to contact male consumers within the that he also positioned as a sophisticated hobby, which went against population of interest. This study follows Biernacki and Waldorf the sociocultural atmosphere in which a showy and glamorous appear- (1981) in conducting snowball sampling, analyzing the types and char- ance was popular. Due to his neat, stylish, and polished look, Brummell acteristics of the respondents on an ongoing basis while collecting, ana- was called ‘the Beau Brummell’ or simply ‘the Beau,’ which means lyzing, and conceptualizing the data. This ongoing analysis of the ‘beautiful’ in French (Barbey d'Aurevilly, 1845/1977). Consequently, respondents is expected to guide future referral chains and ensure the pursuit of external beauty, dressing up, and the acquisition
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