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The Magic of Mull

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The Magic of Mull The Magic Of Mull Naturetrek Tour Report 25 June - 1 July 2012 Atlantic Puffin by Chris Dauncey Grey Seal by Dean Robinson Staffa showing Fingal's Cave by Chris Dauncey Report compiled by David Pierce and Martin Beaton Images courtesy of Chris Dauncey and Dean Robinson Naturetrek Cheriton Mill Cheriton Alresford Hampshire SO24 0NG England T: +44 (0)1962 733051 F: +44 (0)1962 736426 E: [email protected] W: www.naturetrek.co.uk Tour Report The Magic Of Mull Tour leaders: David Pierce Martin Beaton Participants: Janet Spens Claude Guadagnucci Penelope Sinclair Dean Robinson Judy Robinson Bernie Lawrance Gloria Lawrance Marian Clark Frederick Dyer Hilary Dyer David Rowlands Louise Rowlands Christopher Dauncey Patricia Dauncey John Parsons Day 1 Monday 25th June Our Mull adventure began with a 45 minute sail in brilliant Hebridean sunshine from Oban on the mainland to Craignure on the Isle of Mull. The ferry provided a great opportunity to familiarise ourselves with a number of Mull’s common sea birds including Gannet, Common Gull, Kittiwake and Comic Tern (i.e. indistinguishable Common or Arctic). The deck also provided good views of the island from the Sound of Mull, including Lismore lighthouse and Duart Castle, the 13th Century home of the Clan MacLean, restored in 1912. On arriving in Craignure we drove north for 4 miles to our comfortable hotel, The Glen Forsa, just south of the small village of Salen. After settling in we travelled the short distance across the narrow isthmus from Salen on the east of the island, to Loch Na Keal on the west. From the two minibuses we saw a number of Fallow Deer before stopping at the eastern end of Loch Na Keal where we found Eider Duck, Merganser, Greylag Geese, Meadow Pipit and a juvenile Wheatear before returning to the hotel for supper. Day 2 Tuesday 26th June A pre breakfast trip took us south to Fishnish Bay and Garmony Point where we saw Common Sandpiper, Greylag Geese and after some searching saw our first Otter in Fishnish Bay on our return. After breakfast we set of for Tobermory to start our 9.30 trip with Sea Life Surveys to explore the sea between Mull and Coll. © Naturetrek August 12 1 The Magic Of Mull Tour Report We left Tobermory in brilliant sunshine travelling north past the small lighthouse of Rubha nan Gall, Ardmore Point (the most northerly point of Mull) and westwards past Ardnamurchan (the most westerly point of mainland Britain). Gannet, Guillemot, Manx Shearwater and Puffin were regularly seen along with a single Storm Petrel. As we approached the Cairns of Coll, the most northerly outcrop of islands and rocks, we had a distant sighting of Basking Shark swimming slowly south. Heading further in towards the island we saw both Grey and Common Seal along with small rafts of Auks including Guillemot, Razorbill and Puffin. The Common or Harbour Seal is generally found in more sheltered coastal waters but they use this safe sheltered site for pupping. After a closer look at the Cairns we headed a short distance north to look for whales and dolphins and were rewarded with a number of brief sightings of Minke Whale. After a pause for lunch and a short but eventful trip to one of the Cairns we resumed our whale watch and were successful in having a number of sightings (including a spectacular blow which caught everyone off guard). The trusty boatdog appeared to catch the whales scent just as we spotted them and we saw a total of three separate Minke Whales to the accompaniment of his enthusiastic barking! Late afternoon we returned to Tobermory, looking for Common Dolphin amidst the odd drop of rain. Day 3 Wednesday 27th June Today in mixed weather we began a more detailed exploration of the south-west of the island, beginning in Loch Na Keal. An initial visit to the north coast provided some spectacular views of Sea Eagle. A pair was seen initially circling and then perching in a small group of conifers above the road but they soon resumed their search for food with the appearance of a fishing boat from Ulva, which provided us with some great views. Moving to the south of the loch we saw Golden Eagle perched on a cliff behind the shore and after a picnic lunch, further along the loch, we found a number of Mull’s common insectivorous plants, Sundew and both Pale and Lusitanian Butterworts, and in the steep cliffs above the road we found Peregrine. The road which climbs up from Loch na Keal towards Loch Scridain to the south provided views of Inch Kenneth and little Colonsay but low cloud obscured the spectacular view out towards Iona, Staffa and the Treshnish Isles. In Loch Scridain we continued our search for Otters but they proved elusive so we continued though the spectacular, glaciated scenery of Glen More, where we had close views of a Short-eared Owl. Day 4 Thursday 28th June A pre breakfast trip took us to Loch na Keal where we had excellent views of two Red Deer in fields close to the shore. Eider and Merganser were seen on the loch and on the roadside the deep pink flowers of Sherard’s Downy Rose. Another day of mixed weather in which we again visited Loch na Keal, having good views of two female Fallow Deer. Travelling slowly along the south of the Loch we continued our search for Otter, finally gaining a tantalising glimpse. Once spotted, we continued our search and picked out two Otters at some distance on the shore. Returning a short way up the road to get closer we were treated to a fine view of three Otters (a female and two large cubs) feeding together which we observed for some time. 2 © Naturetrek August 12 The Magic Of Mull Tour Report Leaving Loch na Keal we travelled south down towards Grasspoint. Stopping for lunch just before the end of the track we immediately saw two distant Red Deer and then a large stag close by. After lunch we walked down to Grasspoint, picking up a number of birds. Here we also found a number of specimens of Lesser Butterfly Orchid along with patches of Ragged Robin and Yellow Pimpernel. Our walk continued as we retraced our route along the track before being picked up by the mini bus, followed by a further spell of bird watching over the western arm of Loch Don. A photography stop captured a spectacular group of Foxgloves just before a thunderstorm precipitated our return to the hotel for supper. Day 5 Friday 29th June Our pre breakfast trip took us to Salen Bay where we saw Greenshank, Common Sandpiper, Heron and Greylag Geese. After breakfast we drove along the north of Loch na Keal viewing the Sea Eagles towards Ulva Ferry where we boarded the boat to Staffa and the Treshnish Isles. The trip to Staffa took us along the south coast of Ulva and Gometra, passing to the north of Little Colonsay, all the islands displaying the typical steppe landscape of Mull formed by basalt lava flows. We rounded Staffa to see Fingal’s Cave from the sea before landing and exploring the cave and the amazing rock formations on foot, the famous basalt columns which mirror those of the Giants Causeway across the sea in Co Antrim. We ate lunch on top of the cliffs amongst a spectacular seascape before travelling on to Lunga. Lunga is the largest of the Treshnish Isles and contains large population of breading sea birds including Puffin, Guillemot, Razorbill, Fulmar, which were much in evidence as we approached the island. On landing, we made our way along the north coast to a large stack which is the principle breeding site for Guillemot and Razorbill to gain some spectacular views. Puffins, which breed along the whole of the north shore, provided a captivating sight because they allowed us to get very close. We returned from Lunga via Cairn na Burgh More and Cairn na Burgh Beg, the two most northerly islands of the Treshnish group and both sites of Viking forts, to look for Grey Seal before returning along the north coast of Gometra and Ulva via Loch Tuath. We had a good view of a Sea Eagle perched in trees on the north side of Ulva and Common Seal on the islands entering the Sound of Ulva before finally disembarking and returning to our hotel. Day 6 Saturday 30th June Our pre breakfast trip started with our first views of Sand Martin in hotel car park before moving on to Glen Aros. Two Red Deer were seen in the valley and a raven called from overhead but Hare and Mountain Hare again proved elusive on our early morning trip Today we travelled north to Tobermory where some explored the picturesque town for an hour while a small group travelled on towards Glengorm Castle. In the brief trip to Glengorm we saw two distant Golden Eagles, a Kestrel, a brief view of a Hen Harrier, and good views of Cuckoo perched on a fence post. © Naturetrek August 12 3 The Magic Of Mull Tour Report Returning to Tobermory we reunited the group and set of towards Dervaig and Calgary Bay. On the way we passed three fresh water lochs containing Little Grebe with some spectacular flowering yellow water-lilies. Beyond Dervaig in Loch a Chumhainn we spent some time looking at Oystercatcher, Redshank and Common Sandpiper before travelling on to the sandy beach of Calgary Bay and lunch. We enjoyed a brief if somewhat wet exploration of the machair with its spectacular colours, from purple Thyme to yellow Lady’s Bedstraw.
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