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neighbourhood 01 this legendary cookware shop shade of the majestic magnolias Mosman for 30 years. You’ll find Australian outside Mosman Skiff club. Watch Address book Walks food products such as pink out for kookaburras: they have a Route with a view Murray River salt and Kangaroo tendency to swoop, particularly if 01 Flannel — Sydney Island honey, plus greeting cards you have a snack in hand. If you’re 571 Military Road depicting Mosman’s epic views still feeling active walk back along 161 (0)2 9960 6882 by foot Leafy Mosman is one of Sydney’s ritziest neighbourhoods.Thanks and architecture. the beachfront to The Balmoral flannel.com.au to its craggy coastline, the roomy residences on the steep land rising Continue walking along Military Boatshed at The Boathouse to hire 02 Accoutrement from its numerous bays are heavy on water views.The area also Road; after a few minutes you’ll a paddle-board. 611 Military Road Sydney’s unique mix of benefits from being close to the city centre: it’s only a 10-minute see Kids Stuff. This family- Once you’re done, keep walking 161 (0)2 9969 4911 urban and natural charms drive, or a 25-minute ferry trip, across the harbour. owned toy retailer eschews major north. After 10 minutes or so, near accoutrement.com.au is best savoured at an The smart shops and homes of today are a far cry from the commercial brands in favour of the rotunda in the park, you’ll see 03 Kids Stuff old-fashioned walking suburb’s commercial past. A whaling station opened here in 1833 handmade toys. A short stroll Billy, a bronze sculpture of a 774 Military Road pace. The vast harbour and this trade created the first stirrings of a settled community. further along the footpath and dog who accompanied his master, 161 (0)2 9960 3222 means you’re never far you’ll reach Trevor Victor a street sweeper, while he worked kidstuff.com.au Mosman’s vertiginous terrain was initially an impediment to Harvey Gallery. It shows works by 04 Trevor Victor Harvey from a breathtaking water development but ferry services and intensive road-building from Australian artists including David Gallery view and you’ll encounter 1861 brought an influx of people, among them bohemian artists Bromley and Charles Blackman, 842 Military Road countless vantage points attracted by the vistas. When a tram service replaced the horse-drawn plus resident artists Kerrie Lester 161 (0)2 9968 2153 along its steep slopes. buses from North Sydney, Mosman became a desirable suburb. and Ken Done. tvhgallery.com But there’s also plenty Residents – known as “2088ers” due to the postcode – tend to Continue for another 50 metres 05 Pages and Pages to admire in the refined bunker down permanently. The lucky ones live “on the flat” (next to independent bookseller Pages 878 Military Road and Pages. The shop is well stocked 161 (0)2 9969 9736 blend of modern and to the beaches) in postwar garden apartments or art deco abodes. historical architecture and with works by Australian authors pagesandpages.com.au Sadly, hard-edged contemporary mansions have been replacing and photographers. Keep an eye 06 The Source myriad cafés, galleries these architectural darlings.The jewel of the area is Balmoral out for the cookbooks by Mosman- 6/914 Military Road and independent retailers. Beach, one of the finest harbour swimming spots in Sydney. It’s based chef Serge Dansereau of 161 (0)2 9969 1368 Here are our top five also where you’ll find The Bathers’ Pavilion, a restaurant housed The Bathers’ Pavilion. 07 The Balmoral Boatshed exploratory routes. in a grand 1920s building.Taronga Zoo and the cliff faces of Continue south for another five 2 The Esplanade Sydney Harbour National Park are additional highlights. minutes until you reach Raglan 161 (0)434 505 444 Street. Turn left and you’ll see balmoralboatshed.com.au The Source. This café with an 08 Billy Shops to shore on-site roastery is a good place at the beach every day for 17 years. The Esplanade Mosman walk to refresh with a flat white. Once Cross the park towards the 09 Rocky Point Island you’re suitably caffeinated, head water and over the bridge to Hunter Park, This walk starts at Spit Junction off down Raglan Street for a Rocky Point Island, known locally The Esplanade (where Military and Spit roads stroll past some of Sydney’s most as “The Island”. In season (April 10 The Bathers’ Pavilion Awaba Street meet). On the corner look for the valuable real estate, with views to December) you can often spot 4 The Esplanade olive-green shopfront of Flannel. across to Manly and out to the whales migrating along the coast. 161 (0)2 9969 5050 Hunters Bay Designer Kristy Lawrence creates Pacific Ocean. After 1km you’ll To conclude your walk, stop in batherspavilion.com.au 10 floaty and feminine silk, cotton and reach Balmoral Beach. Turn right at The Bathers’ Pavilion next door lace clothing. Walk away from the at The Esplanade and wander for a sundowner. Head up to the 9 main intersection down Military along the promenade underneath art gallery on the second floor; the Road. After a few minutes, on the the grand Fig trees. rooftop terrace also has spectacular 8 same side of the street, you’ll come to Keep walking until you reach the views over the beach. 1 Accoutrement. Owner Sue Jenkins deserted eastern end of the beach. To return to Spit Junction, catch 2 Botanic The Esplanade Road has been behind the counter of Here you can lounge under the the 247 bus from the nearby stop. 3 7 Getting there Military Road — 4 To get to Mosman catch the 5 180, 245 or 247 bus from Wynard Station in the CBD to Spit Junction. Alternatively, 6 catch a train on the Northern Raglan Street and Western Line to North Sydney Railway Station and then hop on the 229 or 230 bus to Spit Junction. 131500.com.au

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neighbourhood 02 Step back in history The Rocks The Rocks walk Address book Back to the future This walk starts at the . 01 Argyle Cut Governor Macquarie enlisted convict Argyle Street gangs to cut this tunnel through the shfa.nsw.gov.au Sydneysiders tend to only visit The Rocks if they’re heading to rock by hand in 1843. It took 21 years 02 Foundation Park to catch a ferry or dipping into the Museum of to complete and the chisel marks can Gloucester Walk Contemporary Art , as the common belief is that it’s a still be seen on the rock face. shfa.nsw.gov.au tourist trap. But this peninsula has much to recommend it. Yes, Climb the stairs on your left 03 The Glenmore there are some kitsch retailers but the neighbourhood also offers and follow the signs to the quirky 96 Cumberland Street a fascinating insight into the birth of modern Australia. Foundation Park. This site was 161 (0)2 9247 4794 The district incorporating Point, Circular Quay, excavated by an archaeological theglenmore.com.au and Millers Point provided safe anchorage for British team in the 1990s and eight 04 Museum terrace houses from the 1870s were 58-64 Gloucester Street ships in the late 1780s. Having displaced the Aboriginal clans of the 161 (0)2 9241 1893 Nation, the settlers established a penal colony. Convict labour and there’s also an education centre. Car”. The Walsh Bay wharves were sydneylivingmuseums. was used to chip away the hills and rocky outcrops and some of the Head back to Susannah Place constructed during the 20th century com.au fledgling nation’s first permanent structures were established. Museum and take the stairs to to cope with the booming shipping 05 Cribbs Lane on George Street, built in 1816, is the oldest Harrington Street. Turn right, walk industry but when business dwindled 110 Cumberland Street surviving residence and the Georgian terrace houses in Millers 10 metres and then take a left into in the early 1970s the area fell thebigdig.com.au Point are excellent examples of early Australian architecture. Nurses Walk and follow it through to into disrepair. From the 1990s the 06 Suez Canal the Suez Canal. This notoriously wharves were repurposed Between Harrington and While the city sprawled outwards over the following two unsavoury alley was the stomping as a cultural precinct. Stop at George streets (runs centuries, The Rocks’ pretty cobbled passageways, sandstone ground of the gang Fratelli Fresh for some quality alongside Harbour Rocks cottages and wooden wharves stood unchanged. More than 100 during the 1880s and 1890s. The Italian fare before heading out onto Hotel Sydney) locations of historical significance remain. This walk will take you snappily dressed members (male and Pier 4 to visit the home of the Sydney 07 Cadmans Cottage past some of the ones we think are the most interesting – including female) tyrannised drunken whalers Theatre Company and Bangarra 110 George Street the iconic , of course – to finish at one of and sailors on shore leave with petty Dance Theatre. Follow the signs to 161 (0)2 9337 7019 the city’s newest sites: the Barangaroo Reserve. theft and violence. The Theatre Bar at the End of nationalparks.nsw.gov.au Exit the alley, turn left then head the Wharf for a digestif. 08 Sydney Harbour Bridge right at the crossing and take the Hickson Road uncovered. You can walk through stairs down to Cadmans Cottage. 09 Fratelli Fresh and see how the early settlers lived This sandstone building is one of the Shop 8, 16 Hickson Road in these cramped homes. few remaining structures from the 161 (0)2 8243 2777 Head back towards the stairs and first 30 years of the British colony. fratellifresh.com.au ascend another flight to Cumberland Walk along the path to the 10 The Theatre Bar at the 8 Street. If you’re in need of harbour and take a sharp left toward End of the Wharf refreshment The Glenmore pub the Overseas Passenger Terminal. Pier 4, Hickson Road Walsh Bay 10 on your left is a good option; the Follow the wharf around the corner 161 (0)2 9250 1761 menu is solid but the main attraction toward Sydney Harbour Bridge. sydneytheatre.com.au is the rooftop offering 180-degree Walk beneath this steel behemoth 11 Barangaroo Reserve 9 views of the harbour. and continue past the Autograph Millers Point 11 Exit and turn left. Cross Argyle Collection’s Pier One hotel. At the barangaroo.sydney Street and you’ll see roundabout you’ll see an installation George Heritage Hotel. Turn left and walk by American artist Jimmie Durham Street to Susannah Place Museum. This titled “Still Life with Stone and Hickson 2 museum, set across four brick houses Road built in 1844, is a fascinating look To round off your walk, head west 1 3 7 into how Irish immigrant families Getting there on Hickson Road then veer right lived in these early days. There’s even — on Towns Place to reach the Cumberland 6 a cornershop where you can browse Millers Point is at the edge Barangaroo Reserve. Formerly Street 4 products that were available back of the peninsula. To get an industrial site, the parkland was then. Exit, cross the road and walk there your best bet is to opened to the public for the first time 5 up the stairs directly opposite to visit head to Circular Quay, the in more than 100 years following a Cribbs Lane. In the early 1900s the city’s transport hub, which is au$250m redevelopment in 2015. government razed the flimsy homes serviced by ferries, trains and Barangaroo is named after a revered in this street following an outbreak buses and is just a 10-minute Cammeraygal woman who was of the bubonic plague. In 1994 more walk from Millers Point. the companion of Bennelong, an Harrington Street than one million artefacts from early Aboriginal man who acted as an European settlements were found interlocutor between the British beneath its car park. You can view the and the indigenous tribes. ongoing excavation during the day

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neighbourhood 03 Street. Turn right when you reach Dixon Street. This pedestrian mall Address book Chippendale has been the heart of Chinatown Factory made since it was relocated in 1980. Take 01 Brickfields a slight detour right off the mall 206 Cleveland Street onto Little Hay Street and then left 161 (0)2 9698 78800 The formerly industrial neighbourhood of Chippendale sits on onto Kimber Lane to see the street brickfields.com.au the southern cusp of the cbd. In the past decade the area has shaken art In Between Two Worlds by 02 Mop its grotty reputation and rattled to life as a hub for creatives, with Jason Wing. Wing’s Aboriginal and 2/39 Abercrombie Street affordable studios and plenty of places to eat. The suburb is now Chinese heritage inspired the cloud 161 (0)412 054 438 home to more than 20 galleries and a few lip-smacking developments murals and spirit figures. Walk to mop.org.au including the hawker-style establishments on the Spice Alley strip, the end of the mall then head east 03 Ambush Gallery Kensington Street Social and Automata (the latter two are both on Hay Street to see the 10-metre- Level 3, Central Park, 28 Broadway within the Old Clare Hotel, see page 18). tall sculpture of a eucalyptus tree topped with gold leaf, an installation 161 (0)2 8008 8516 The most striking aspect of Chippendale’s transformation is by Chinese-born artist Lin Li titled ambushgallery.com the daring One Central Park development (see page 105). This Track changes Street. Take your first right on Golden Water Mouth. 04 Kensington au$2bn urban renewal scheme is a mixed-use gem on the once Chippendale walk Ultimo Road, which will deliver you Continue along the tramlines to Contemporary 1&2 fallow land that was the site of the Carlton United Brewery. A key onto the urban landscaping project 4A Centre for Contemporary Asian 32-34 Kensington Street part of the area’s industrial legacy, the brewery began as the Kent Before setting out, fuel up at The Goods Line. This 500-metre- Art on the next block, a gallery set up 161 (0)417 494 317 Brewery. But during the 20th century, factories began to shift to Brickfields, the corner bakery long stretch sits atop a former to foster innovative artists working chippendalecreative.com the outer suburbs; in the early 2000s the brick walls that had on Cleveland Street run by Paul railway corridor that operated within the Asia-Pacific region. If your 05 Spice Alley Geshos and Simon Cancio. All between the 1850s and 1980s. tummy is rumbling, exit the gallery to 18-20 Kensington Street shrouded the brewing yard in mystery for more than 150 years sourdough loaves and pastries To the left you’ll notice the cross the tramlines and cut through kensingtonstreet.com.au were brought down. are made in-house each day. Exit curious contours of the Dr Chau the Capital Square food court to 06 The Goods Line Another commendable project that has helped shape the area the bakery and head north on the Chak Wing Building designed by reach modishly designed Thai-town Ultimo Pedestrian Network is the renovation of the old rail corridor known as The Goods Line backstreet of paperbark-tree-lined Canadian-born architect Frank favourite Chat Thai on Campbell 07 Dr Chau Chak Wing (see page 107). This once-derelict stretch is now a pedestrian and Balfour Street, then hang a left on Gehry for the University of Street. If you’re not ready to call it a Building cycle path linking the Inner West to the cbd and allowing for easy Little Queen Street. Once you hit Technology Sydney (see page 106). day head north for three blocks on 14-28 Ultimo Road connection between Chippendale, Ultimo and . Abercrombie Street, walk north At the northern end of The Goods George Street for a beer or shochu at uts.edu.au until you reach Mop gallery. Its Line head down the stairs and east izakaya-style joint Yebisu. 08 Chinese Garden of contemporary exhibitions showcase along Hay Street. Cross the tram Friendship talent curated by Sydney artists. tracks to walk north on Harbour Pier Street, CBD Head east on O’Connor Street Street, which joins onto Little Getting there 161 (0)2 9240 8888 and take the shortcut through Pier Street. Follow the redbrick — darlingharbour.com 13 George Chippendale Green (to your left) pavement until you reach the Central Station is a five- 09 In Between Two Worlds Street to enter the Central Park Mall. The Chinese Garden of Friendship. minute walk south from the Kimber Lane 8 shops here are chainy but on level This tranquil hideaway was starting point. Alternatively cityartsydney.com.au three is Ambush Gallery, which designed in the fashion of a private bus route 352 from Bondi 10 Golden Water Mouth hosts provocative yet commercially park from the time of the Ming Junction stops opposite the Corner of Sussex and driven installations. Exit Central dynasty and was opened in 1988 starting point. Hay streets 9 Park Mall and head east toward to mark Australia’s bicentenary. cityartsydney.com.au 12 Carlton Street, named after the After wandering past the willows, 11 4A Centre for brewery that once dominated bamboo and ponds head back the Contemporary Asian Art the neighbourhood. Nip down way you came, past the Novotel 181-187 Hay Street 10 11 the unmarked passageway (it’s Rockford Darling Harbour, and 161 (0)2 9212 0380 7 between two large buildings) to cross the road to walk up Factory 4a.com.au visit Kensington Contemporary 12 Chat Thai Harris Street 6 1&2. These galleries are set in the 20 Campbell Street federation-era terraces. 161 (0)2 9211 1808 Exit through the backdoor to chatthai.com.au Broadway enter Spice Alley. Once a private 13 Yebisu 3 courtyard, this narrow strip was 7-10/501 George Street 5 redeveloped into a hawker-style 161 (0)2 9266 0301 2 4 food market. Make a pit-stop at izakayayebisu.com.au Abercrombie one of the ever-changing line-up of Street vendors for wontons and handmade noodles, then head out onto Kensington Street. Turn right to walk past the Old Clare Hotel and 1 turn right again onto Broadway. At the next main intersection, cross the street and walk north on Harris

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neighbourhood 04 Standing pretty Potts Point Potts Point walk Address book Touch of class Start at Kings Cross Station and 01 Dove Kitchen walk north on Victoria Street for 130 Victoria Street brunch at Dove Kitchen, which 161 (0)2 9368 0600 The simple bend where Darlinghurst Road transforms into has been serving meals for more dovekitchen.com.au Macleay Street is the boundary marker for two of Sydney’s most than two decades. A little further 02 Hordern House diverse suburbs. Wander north and the neon haze of the Kings north on the same street is 77 Victoria Street Cross strip fades and is replaced with Potts Point’s urban Hordern House, a rare-books 161 (0)2 9356 4411 refinement: charming tree-lined streets boasting stately residences shop that also sells historical hordern.com and some of the best tables in town. The roll-call includes The paintings and prints. Continue on 03 McElhone Stairs Apollo (see page 30), Billy Kwong (see page 31) and Cho Cho San a few doors to admire the view from Victoria Street (see page 33). The neighbourhood has an air of old-world elegance, McElhone Stairs, known as the 04 Planet “stairs of death” for their steepness. 2/10 Macleay Street from its fetching art deco apartment blocks to mansions dating Runners can often be seen tackling 161 (0)2 9331 2181 back to the 1800s. the 112 steps. Dumplings and Beer, a cheerful planetfurniture.com.au It has a rich recorded history too, beginning with the Continue on Victoria Street and Getting there neighbourhood dim-sum spot. 05 Elizabeth Bay House original landowners, the Gadigal clan: the hilltop peninsula was turn right onto McDonald Lane. — Exit and walk down Ward 7 Onslow Avenue an important site for ceremonies. After European settlement, the Follow it around the bend and Trains running along the Avenue. Turn left at Baroda Street 161 (0)2 9356 3022 area became popular with the well-heeled contingent. The turn right again at the T-junction. Eastern Suburbs and Illawarra and enter the park. Walk through sydneylivingmuseums. suburb is also the site of Sydney’s first high-rise apartment Turn right when you hit Macleay Line and the South Coast Line and you’ll see the El-Almein com.au/elizabeth-bay- Street and look for the red awnings Memorial Fountain. If it’s Saturday house building. Designed by Halligan and Wilton and completed in service Kings Cross Station. across the road; this is where you’ll Alternatively it is a 20-minute and before 14.00, you can wander 06 Arthur McElhone 1912, the opulent eight-storey Kingsclere on Macleay Street find Planet, a furniture-maker the Kings Cross Farmers Market Reserve inspired an era of luxuriously appointed residential blocks. The walk (albeit slightly uphill) that also stocks an excellent range from the CBD. that is held here. Head back onto Corner of Billyard and suburb still attracts noteworthy residents; in recent times it’s of homeware and ceramics. When Macleay Street. Turn right and Onslow avenues been home to a spate of ex-PMs, including Gough Whitlam and you’ve finished perusing the walk for a few minutes to reach cityofsydney.nsw.gov.au . Tour this area on foot to appreciate why so many collection, continue on Macleay the Aladdin’s cave of antiques at 07 Heart of Glass Café Sydneysiders have been drawn here. Street. After 70 metres or so you’ll Potts Point Galleries. 1 Ithaca Road see a narrow passage to your left; If you haven’t eaten yet, Macleay 161 (0)2 404 979 368 Street offers a number of excellent 08 Michael Reid Sydney Challis and you’ll reach Beare Park. Grab dining options, including Monopole, 44 Roslyn Gardens Avenue a flat white at the quaint waterfront a sleek European joint, and Billy 161 (0)2 8353 3500 Heart of Glass Café. Walk back up Kwong, an up-market Chinese michaelreid.com.au Elizabeth Bay Ithaca Road, continuing on when restaurant. If you’re in the mood for 09 Rushcutters Bay Park 4 it turns into Roslyn Gardens after a post-walk drink, avoid the sleazy New South Head Road Billyard Avenue crossing Elizabeth Bay Road. Stop southern reaches of Darlinghurst woollahra.nsw.gov.au 3 6 when you reach Michael Reid Road and head back to Victoria 10 Dumplings and Beer 11 7 Sydney. This gallery shows the work Street. To get there, walk towards 9 Ward Avenue of sought-after international and Darlinghurst and turn right when 161 (0)2 9380 4774 Victoria 2 Australian contemporary artists. you reach Orwell Street. At the end dumplingsandbeer.com Street 5 Double back along Roslyn of the road you’ll see tropical-themed 11 Potts Point Galleries Ithaca Road Orwell Gardens and at the roundabout take bar The Butler. Here sweeping 67 Macleay Street Street a right onto Waratah Street. After a views of the city’s skyline, excellent 161 (0)2 9357 2033 12 couple of minutes’ walk you’ll reach cocktails and attentive service come pottspointgalleries.com.au Rushcutters Bay Park. The waters as standard. 12 The Butler 1 near this pretty fig-tree-lined park 123 Victoria Street follow this towards some stairs that are dotted with boats. After a look 161 (0)2 8354 0742 lead down to Billyard Avenue. Turn around, rejoin Waratah Street and butlersydney.com.au right and at the junction take Onslow continue on in the same direction. 10 Avenue that curves right. After a At the junction at the end of Waratah 8 short walk you’ll reach Elizabeth Street turn right onto Bayswater 9 Bay House, one of Australia’s finest Road. Walk until the intersection of colonial-era mansions, now open Roslyn Street: as the road begins to to the public. After wandering the bend around, look to your left and Roslyn Street halls, step across the road to see you’ll see the corner of Acme (see the water views at the manicured page 31), a restaurant that serves Arthur McElhone Reserve. Cut a great lunch of Asian-influenced across this small park towards the pastas. Or for something more bay and you’ll find yourself back on low-key, walk further up the hill Billyard Avenue. Turn right and walk along Roslyn Street and turn right until you hit Ithaca Road. Turn left at Ward Avenue. Here you’ll find

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neighbourhood 05 Historical appreciation Balmain Balmain walk Address book Industrial revolution Start off proceedings with 01 Victoire provisions from French boulangerie 660 Darling Street Victoire, which has furnished 161 (0)2 9818 5529 A whistle-stop tour of headline-grabbing hotspots is unlikely to the Inner West with baked goods victoire.net.au deliver you to the Inner West suburb of Balmain. But this cheerful since 1985. With pastry in hand 02 The Cook’s Grocer neighbourhood has its own tale to tell and some of the most begin your journey north on 1 National Street sought-after real estate in the city. Darling Street. Take a detour right 161 (0)2 8084 4486 Most activity here is centred around the string of cafés and when you reach National Street to thecooksgrocer.com.au independent retailers on Darling Street, which runs through the meet Elizabeth Master and Tim 03 Local Store peninsula. Balmain was one of the first neighbourhoods to flourish Ryder, the entrepreneurs behind 610 Darling Street after colonial settlement, with the earliest records of development The Cook’s Grocer. The pair 161 (0)2 9555 6423 offer a home-delivery service that 04 Malcolm Antiques dating back to 1800 when surgeon William Balmain was granted provides ingredients to prepare 450 Darling Street land. Several decades later, as water traffic to the area increased, each meal. You can pick up some of to the back of the Working Men’s 161 (0)2 9810 9333 shipyard workers and their families added to the growing their produce, including De Costi Institute building to visit The 05 Elkington Park population leading to a building frenzy in the mid to late-19th seafood or market-fresh vegetables. Hunter Works for an afternoon Glassop Street century. Wander through the neighbourhood today and you’ll see Return to Darling Street then head espresso made from beans toasted leichhardt.nsw.gov.au landmarks from that period, such as the Public School and north until you reach Local Store, by Sydney-based Sample Coffee 06 Riverview Hotel Balmain Town Hall, towering over their contemporary neighbours. which stocks a modish selection of Roasters. If you’re after a stiffer 29 Birchgrove Road Australian denim from Neuw and sip then sit pavement-side at 161 (0)2 9810 1151 Balmain’s historic identity as a working-class area is bolstered Rollas, the latest tunes on vinyl and Wilhelmina’s: cocktails are punchy theriverviewhotel.com.au by the fact that the Australian Labor party was established here – the best in Aussie publishing. and the beers nearly all sourced 07 Balmain Library and by the proliferation of that national staple, the pub. Often From here the walk to the from brewers within the city. 370 Darling Street three-storey fixtures, these hostelries occupy corner lots and come next stop requires a seven-minute A few minutes further east 161 (0)2 9367 9211 adorned with iconic wrap-around verandas. The factories closed stretch, continuing along Darling on Darling Street is the original leichhardt.nsw.gov.au at the end of the 20th century and the area gentrified but the Street. Take the opportunity to outpost for eccentric pâtissier 08 Balmain Fire Station majority of pubs survived as cornerstones of the suburb. pop your head over the fences of Adriano Zumbo. Zumbo is known 09 The Hunter Works the squat brick federation homes, for his marshmallowy soft macarons Shop 7, 332 Balmain in bold flavours, such as white Street River Fraser Baths, a tide-fed gem that miso and ginger and mandarin and 161 (0)2 9810 3734 Getting there dates from the 1880s. This is where ricotta. Diagonally across the road 10 Wilhelmina’s the four-time gold medal-winning is Maple, which stocks great 332 Darling Street Glassop Street — Buses from the city, including swimmer after which the pool was brands from across Sydney, 161 (0)2 8068 8762 the 500, 501 and 504, run in renamed learned her trade. Back including Deus Ex Machina and wilhelminas.com.au 5 regular intervals from the CBD up the hill on Birchgrove Road Vanishing Elephant. As the sun 11 Adriano Zumbo 6 Addison Street and stop along Victoria Road (cross over Glassop Street) is the dips below the gum trees, wind 296 Darling Street near Darling Street. Getting Riverview Hotel, which Fraser up your walk with a beer on the adrianozumbo.com 4 8 10 home, the Balmain East Wharf owned for five years. Stop in for a veranda of the historic London 12 Maple at the end of Darling Street schooner or a quick pub lunch. Hotel, affectionately known as “The 267 Darling Street 7 12 has a service running back to Branching off from Birchgrove Don”. A loyal crowd gathers daily 161 (0)2 9555 2352 9 Circular Quay. Road is Addison Street; go to to sink a few while enjoying the maplestore.com.au the end of this street then turn harbour views. 13 The London Hotel Young Street 11 left onto Hampton Street, which 234 Darling Street will deliver you to Darling Street. 161 (0)2 9555 1377 13 From there head east towards the londonhotel.com.au retro 1950s apartment blocks Balmain Library. Located in and the odd two-storey Victorian the Balmain Town Hall Building terraces. Round the bend and on (erected in 1888), this community 3 Darling Street the corner you’ll spot furniture library holds archives of the area’s dealer Malcolm Antiques. The history, including sepia photos now collection is delightfully obscure. decorating the walls and copies of Neighbouring gallery Breathing the 1977 illustrated Sydney Takes 2 Colours is also worth a quick peek. Shape by Max Kelly and Ruth White Bay Break from the main Crocker and 1973’s The Companion 1 thoroughfare and head down the Guide to Sydney by Ruth Park. hill at Young Street on your left to Directly opposite the library is land at Elkington Park. Not only the nsw Fire Brigade’s first base: does this offer a pleasant vantage the 1894-built Balmain Fire over Cockatoo Island but it’s also Station. Continue east past the old home to the wooden-decked Dawn courthouse and take the passageway

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