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End of the Line END OF THE LINE Vol. 53 / February 2021 Special report A siege with Tenacious Unicorns No. 2 • hcn.org on coal Western roots have a ranch EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR/PUBLISHER Greg Hanscom INTERIM EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Katherine Lanpher ART DIRECTOR Cindy Wehling FEATURES DIRECTOR McKenna Stayner MANAGING DIGITAL EDITOR Gretchen King ASSOCIATE EDITORS Emily Benson, Paige Blankenbuehler, Graham Lee Brewer, Maya L. Kapoor PHOTO EDITOR Roberto (Bear) Guerra ASSOCIATE PHOTO EDITOR Luna Anna Archey ASSISTANT EDITORS Jessica Kutz, Carl Segerstrom, Anna V. Smith EDITOR AT LARGE Betsy Marston COPY EDITOR Diane Sylvain CONTRIBUTING EDITORS Nick Bowlin, Elena Saavedra Buckley, Ruxandra Guidi, Michelle Nijhuis, Jonathan Thompson CORRESPONDENTS Leah Sottile, Sarah Tory EDITORIAL FELLOW Jessica Douglas EDITORIAL INTERNS Surya Milner, Wufei Yu Empty coal cars stretch along the railroad tracks on the flatlands near the Boardman Power Plant, outside Boardman, DIRECTOR OF PHILANTHROPY Oregon. The shadow of the plant’s central chimney, now idle, is visible in the foreground. Sage Brown / HCN Alyssa Pinkerton SENIOR DEVELOPMENT OFFICER Paul Larmer CHARITABLE GIVING ADVISOR Clara Fecht DEVELOPMENT ASSOCIATES Hannah Stevens, Carol Newman DIRECTOR OF PRODUCT & MARKETING Gary Love EVENTS & BUSINESS PARTNER COORDINATOR Laura Dixon IT MANAGER Alan Wells DIRECTOR OF OPERATIONS Erica Howard ACCOUNTS ASSISTANT Mary Zachman CUSTOMER SERVICE MANAGER Kathy Martinez Know CUSTOMER SERVICE Karen Howe, Shannon Kinne, Mark Nydell, Pamela Peters, Tammy York GRANT WRITER Janet Reasoner the FOUNDER Tom Bell BOARD OF DIRECTORS Brian Beitner (Colo.), John Belkin (Colo.), Seth Cothrun (Ariz.), Jay Dean (Calif.), West. Bob Fulkerson (Nev.), Wayne Hare (Colo.), Laura Helmuth (Md.), Samaria Jaffe (Calif.), High Country News is an independent, reader-supported nonprofit 501(c)(3) media organization that covers the important Nicole Lampe (Ore.), Marla Painter (N.M.), issues and stories that define the Western U.S. Our mission is to inform and inspire people to act on behalf of the West’s diverse Bryan Pollard (Ark.), Raynelle Rino (Calif.), natural and human communities. High Country News (ISSN/0191/5657) publishes monthly, 12 issues per year, from 119 Grand Estee Rivera Murdock (Colo.), Andy Wiessner Ave., Paonia, CO 81428. Periodicals, postage paid at Paonia, CO, and other post offices. POSTMASTER: Send address changes (Colo.), Florence Williams (D.C.) to High Country News, Box 1090, Paonia, CO 81428. All rights to publication of articles in this issue are reserved. See hcn.org for DIRECTOR EMERITUS Luis Torres (N.M.) submission guidelines. Subscriptions to HCN are $37 a year, $47 for institutions: 800-905-1155, hcn.org. For editorial comments or questions, write High Country News, P.O. Box 1090, Paonia, CO 81428 or [email protected], or call 970-527-4898. 2 HIGH COUNTRY NEWS EDITOR’S NOTE FEATURED CONTRIBUTORS Brigida Blasi Laramie, Wyoming Jessica Douglas Bend, Oregon @jessicadd29_ Jane C. Hu Seattle Remembering coal @jane_c_hu THIS MONTH, WE TAKE A LONG LOOK at the end of an era: the half-century when coal defined Jessica Kutz the energy economy of the West. Lights burned, rivers were diverted and subdivisions boomed, all Tucson, Arizona thanks to coal. But as Jonathan Thompson explains in this month’s “Facts & Figures,” the “Big Buildup” @jkutzie is over, and what he calls “the Big Breakdown” is on. The transition will be felt across the West, from workers who need to find new jobs to communities whose longtime residents are leaving to find work. In this special issue, Jessica Kutz profiles Nicole Horseherder, a Diné environmental activist who Rosalyn LaPier has worked for decades to move the Navajo Nation away from extractive energy, freeing it from the Missoula, Montana often-unfair contracts that left the Navajo and Hopi landscapes depleted, dry and dusty. Horseherder @RozLaPier remembers the once-reliable springs and seeps of her childhood, before the Navajo Aquifer’s water was used to slurry coal. She wants to see her community’s groundwater restored. Still, many Westerners remember coal fondly. In a photo essay by contributor Sage Brown and staff writer Kate Schimel Carl Segerstrom, we meet some of the people who made the coal-fired Boardman Power Plant in eastern Santa Fe, Oregon hum for 40 years. Last October, they began decommissioning the plant. Dave Rodgers, the New Mexico plant manager, recalls going to downtown Portland and seeing the bright lights there, knowing he had @kateschimel something to do with it: “There’s nothing better in life than to eat, drink and know that your work is good.” It seems hard to believe now, but small coal-mining towns in Wyoming once sought out miners from Carl Segerstrom Europe, Japan, China and Korea. The majority of the tiny town of Dana, however, was made up of Spokane, Washington Black American coal miners, recruited by James E. Shepperson, a Black community leader from @carlschirps Washington state. It’s a complex tale, brought to life by historian Brigida Blasi. Elsewhere in this issue are other surprising stories of empowerment. Eric Siegel takes us inside the Tenacious Unicorn Ranch in Colorado. It’s a remarkable community: queer, transgender-owned and Anna V. Smith anti-fascist — an alpaca ranch with colorful Pride banners and an AR-15 on the wall. Portland, Oregon @annavtoriasmith One of the reasons I love Eric’s story is that it challenges our assumptions about the politics of community in the rural West, where many are forging new — and sometimes uncomfortable — paths to more genuine lives. Unfortunately, that message of tolerance wasn’t shared on Jan. 6, when an extremist mob breached the U.S. Capitol. While the rioters hailed from all over the country, they Alex Trimble Young were echoing resentments sparked in the West long ago. Carl Segerstrom talked to terrorism experts Phoenix who trace the carnage in Washington, D.C., back to its roots in the West. It’s necessary and unsettling reading. Stay safe out there. Katherine Lanpher, interim editor-in-chief FEBRUARY 2021 3 The smokestacks of the Navajo Generating Station near Page, Arizona, before they came down in December FEATURE (above). Cassidy Araiza / HCN Life After Coal 28 At the Tenacious Unicorn Ranch, an LGBTQ+ community of gun-loving anti-fascist alpaca ranchers in Colorado’s Diné activist Nicole Horseherder’s long quest for Wet Mountain Valley, Bonnie Nelson displays her sniper equity from the rise and fall of the coal economy. rifle, a Springfield AR-15 (right). Luna Anna Archey / HCN BY JESSICA KUTZ | PHOTOS BY CASSIDY ARAIZA Access to subscriber-only content: ON THE COVER hcn.org A train loaded with coal travels through West Texas. Since its peak hcne.ws/digi-5203 in 2007, coal use by U.S. power plants has dropped by half. Dan Winters Follow us @highcountrynews 4 HIGH COUNTRY NEWS REPORTAGE THE BREAKDOWN OF COAL Queers, alpacas and guns 14 The Big Breakdown 20 A half-century ago, the Big Buildup An LGBTQ+ community forges its path in a conservative Colorado town. transformed the West; now, it’s all BY ERIC SIEGEL | PHOTOS BY LUNA ANNA ARCHEY coming to an end. FACTS & FIGURES BY JONATHAN THOMPSON New wind projects power 22 local budgets in Wyoming When the pandemic hit the fossil fuel industry, towns expected big deficits. Instead, some got major windfalls. BY JANE C. HU As a coal plant closes, 24 workers reflect “The people here made the plant. What we did is something that was needed.” PHOTOS BY SAGE BROWN TEXT BY CARL SEGERSTROM Mountaintop removal 35 threatens traditional Blackfoot territory Stop the Grassy Mountain coal project before it starts. PERSPECTIVE BY ROSALYN LAPIER When citizens will pay more 7 REFLECTION & REVIEW As state aid shrinks in Wyoming, How Wyoming’s Black 36 one community votes to fund Is it time to decolonize 40 coal miners shaped a new hospital. the housing market? their own history WHAT WORKS BY CARL SEGERSTROM In California, COVID-19 is exacerbating Many early Wyoming coal towns housing inequities. Indigenous activist had thriving Black communities. A siege with Western roots 8 Jackie Fielder believes she has a PERSPECTIVE BY BRIGIDA R. BLASI and consequences solution. History points to a volatile future. Q&A BY JESSICA DOUGLAS #iamthewest 48 BY CARL SEGERSTROM Retired coal miner, rancher Remembering 42 Mary Barclay, Paonia, Colorado Bears Ears is just 10 William Kittredge BY ABBY HARRISON the beginning The beloved teacher and writer was Indigenous voices are long overdue preoccupied with the particular. in management of public land. PERSPECTIVE BY KATE SCHIMEL DEPARTMENTS BY JESSICA DOUGLAS AND GRAHAM LEE BREWER Finding meaning on 44 Joan Didion’s frontier 3 EDITOR’S NOTE ‘A reconciliation’ 12 With the release of a new collection, After decades of battling the 86-year-old author returns 6 LETTERS misinformation, the Confederated to her old work and a vast, Salish and Kootenai Tribes complicated legacy. 13 THE LATEST finally regain the lands of the REVIEW BY ALEX TRIMBLE YOUNG National Bison Range. 16 50TH ANNIVERSARY BY ANNA V. SMITH 17 DONORS / READER PROFILES 46 HEARD AROUND THE WEST FEBRUARY 2021 5 LETTERS nalism that respects the reader’s live with in an isolated commu- ability and desire to learn all sides nity, you experience being part of an issue. of a tapestry that must consider Richard Margolin and support the well-being of all Evergreen, Colorado inhabitants. The second-home owners are impoverished by not Nick Bowlin’s piece “Second Cit- earning and enjoying member- izens” was an absolute gem. The ship in this tapestry. High Country News is dedicated to independent reporting and emotion invoked Thanks so much for doing this journalism, informed debate and discourse in the were beautiful, and I want to thank careful reporting over the past year. public interest. We welcome letters through Bowlin from my heart for stirring Diane Curlette digital media and the post.
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