LE CIRQUE DU FER À CHEVAL EN 4 MODES PORTRAITS TOUR DE PISTES ZEN EN MONTAGNE DU GRAND MASSIF

LE MAGAZINE DE L’OFFICE DE TOURISME INTERCOMMUNAL "GRAND MASSIF MONTAGNES DU GIFFRE" #01 -2020

CHÂTILLONSUR | LA RIVIÈREENVERSE | MORILLON | | SIXTFERÀCHEVAL Grand Massif Montagnes Ensemble, allons plus haut du Giffre

#01 - 2020 Edition Haut-Giffre Spirit In Extenso vous accompagne tout Published by the Grand Massif Montagnes du Giffre au long de la vie de votre entreprise Intercommunal Tourist Office Director of Publication: Valérie Guilhen, Manager of the Tourist Office Chief editor: David Merzougui, head of communication Expertise comptable at the Tourist Office Editorial creation, coordination and EDITORIAL wording: Social et paies Laure Béchade, Living in the Haut-Giffre Valley The Giffre Valley is one of the last valleys journalist - La Belle Presse means living with the elements! It means to be preserved from fast-growing Fiscalité Graphic design: being surrounded by an abundant urbanisation in Haute-Savoie. What do Waouh.cool and preserved natural environment. I love about Giffre Valley? Its authentic 2 3 Publication: May 2020 As a photographer, I'm lucky enough and agricultural side. It is a great place Gestion Printed in: 20,000 copies to have seen this with my own eyes. to live all year round. Life is centred Cover page: ©David Casartelli As I hike across this land, all year around tourist, local, farming and trade Photo credits: OT GMMG (tourist office), round, I photograph these outstanding activities. The fast pace of modern life Conseil en création Tristan Shu, Monica Dalmasso, David landscapes, to pass on to those who is probably a bit slower here, thanks in Casartelli, Gérard Gachignard, Antoine haven’t been here, those who are not part to this natural environment. Each of Dénériaz, ESF (ski school), Dominique able to come here, and to our children; the four seasons has its advantages and Reprise et transmission d’entreprise Plu, David Merzougui, Laureline Gervais, to keep this precious gem in the best specialities on offer, giving the whole Agnieszka Warszawska, Bruno Pezet, Laure Béchade, Gilles Piel, Thomas possible condition, to preserve these territory a natural and innate cohesion. Conseils en investissement immobilier Garcia, Olivier Octobre, Alexandre landscapes and pass on the values of In Giffre Valley, we take the time to Compain, Carine Chenivesse, Céline this land. admire a sunset, new snowfall, the Ducrettet, Mickaël Peralta, The French All the people living in this valley are light of a new dawn. We take the time Outdoors, Christian Martelet, Julien bound by the very same river: the Giffre. to harvest blueberries or mushrooms; Gestion de patrimoine Annequin, Julia Barnes, Simon Park, Olivier Lestien, Thomas Decourt, This river runs through the territory, its the gift of time really is worth all the Floryane Mugnier. movement seemingly eternal. The water, riches in the world. We are entranced by Accompagnement a source of life, comes from the many this setting, that remind us that what’s Acknowledgements: we thank the men and women who make this such waterfalls, mainly found in the Cirque du important is the present moment, not a special place Especially those who Fer-à-Cheval. It took several thousands tomorrow and not yesterday. played a part in the adventure of creating of years for the valley to be shaped as Enjoy reading this new magazine, this magazine, however big or small we can see it today. Intervention from and I hope you will feel the special mankind has ensured that the Giffre is atmosphere and spirit of the area, today contained, thanks to a system through the various articles about the Legal deposit: upon publication / Any Près de chez vous reproduction or representation, in full or in of controlled irrigation. It is within this passionate men and women who live part, by whatever means, of the pages of the lush green setting, the snow-covered life to the full in Giffre Valley. present magazine without the authorisation of lowlands or the rocky highlands, that the editor is strictly forbidden and constitutes man has been able to find just the right David Casartelli fraud. Only reproductions strictly reserved for 04 50 88 90 11 04 50 79 84 88 private use and not intended for group use are balance, to develop activities while Photographer authorised, as well as the quotation of short preserving the best of this superb Find out more about David Casartelli on p. 36 passages which are justified by a scientific ecosystem. purpose or for illustration of the work in which they are incorporated. (art. L122-4, L.122-5 of www.inextenso.fr the Intellectual Property Code). grand site de Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval CONTENTS

32 6 24 54 4 50 5 construireconstruire ensembleensemble 40 58 6. EXPERIENCES | Tour of the Grand Massif slopes | A day of skiing in Morillon | Nordic skiing in Giffre Valley | Hiking in Giffre Valley | Top 5 family-friendly hikes | Trekking from shelter to UN PROJET DE • Préserver les richesses écologiques et paysagères shelter | Ski-touring in your DNA | 1 showshoeing expedition a day • Valoriser le patrimoine culturel At the heart of Sixt-Passy Nature Reserve | Operation Grand Site de | TERRITOIRE POUR • Adapter le modèle de développement touristique 24. FER-À-CHEVAL | The Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval 4 ways | The French Outdoors LES MONTAGNES • Améliorer la qualité de vie des habitants • Maintenir les qualités agricoles du territoire 32. SPOTLIGHTS | Argeline Tan-Bouquet | The Michaud brothers | David Casartelli | Guillaume DU GIFFRE • Vivre avec les risques naturels Wagemans | Jérôme Guillot | Anne and Jean-Pierre Chaigneau 40. ADVENTURES | In the white-water rapids! | The "survivalism" trend | Companions Comprendre, s’informer, participer, visiter on your adventure in the great outdoors! | A closer look at Defoul'park | Top 10 activities for kids > www.grand-site-sixt.fr 50. “ZEN” IN THE MOUNTAINS | 54. HERITAGE SITES | 58. THE TASTE OF THE VALLEY | 62. 5 VILLAGES AND THEIR CHARM | 64. A DAY IN SIXT-FER-À-CHEVAL | 66. PRACTICAL INFO 6 SECTION TITLE to beenjoyed asandwhen youlike. shelter toshelter: somanyexperiences walking orshowshoeing, trekkingfrom walking. Alpine skiing,ski-touring,hiking, anyone lookingformountain sports or Haut-Giffre hastheideal playgroundfor and headingtothe highlands. into thenaturalenvironment Giffre Valley? Byplungingheadfirst What’s the best waytoexplore

TOUR OF THE

2 favourite

SLOPES OF THE SLOPES EXPERIENCES - TOUR 8 slopes 9 slopes of all different AT THE HEART With 265km of diverse 1st ski area to be AT THE HEART slopes, the Grand Massif colours "Green Globe" certified OF THE FOREST OF THE NATURE is one of the biggest The Marvel slope (Morillon) The Grand Massif is a huge mountain In autumn 2016, Grand Massif became RESERVE connected ski areas in sports area that was created in winter the first ski area in the world to be “Green It is on this iconic slope that Antoine France. 1982-1983 when the Tête des Saix and its Globe” certified for all ski lifts, slopes and Dénériaz, Olympic downhill champion, The 'Cascades’ (waterfalls) five resorts were joined together: Flaine, associated facilities and services. Just born in Morillon, got his first taste of skiing! slope Les Carroz, Morillon, Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval The ski area is in Haute-Savoie, opposite like 450 other international companies The Marvel green run is 5km long and is and Samoëns. 80% of the Grand Massif (Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval) Mont blanc, in a preserved natural in the tourism industry, Grand Massif an original and fun slope for beginners slopes are north-facing meaning that there at the heart of a forest of century-old fir environment, with 360° panoramic views. Domaines Skiables chose to aim for the From an altitude of 2,480m at the is always an abundant amount of snow. trees! As well as the educational nature The green runs are perfect for beginners, Green Globe certification, in line with their peak of the ski area, all the way down A special feature of the Grand Massif? A trail (mountain wildlife), this slope doubles and the black run is for advanced skiers values and which will showcase the notion to the village of Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, this large area with superb views, where you up as a "ski safari", where you have to and snowboarders. The Grand Massif of sustainable development for the area, EXCLUSIVE 14km blue run is a superb downhill can ski between the fir trees. search for life-size animal shapes dotted has something for everyone and to suit with their environmental observatory for experience through nature, at the heart around the slope. The Vulture should be every level of ability. Some come here for example, a first for France, and also their of Sixt Nature Reserve, with no chairlifts "Dénériaz Ski Academy" easy to find, but you’ll need to look a bit their very first experience and become environmental policy that aims to reduce the Local champion Antoine Dénériaz, multiple in sight. Ice falls, chamois and birdsong harder for the Ptarmigan. champions right here on these slopes, just impact of pollution and prevent pollution, medal winner and Olympic downhill cham- will accompany skiers of all levels of Highlight: sledging at night! During like Antoine Dénériaz, Olympic downhill for all the operational activities and facilities pion (Turin Olympics 2006) is today a mas- ability along this skiing adventure. medallist, and Argeline Tan-Bouquet, vice of the ski area. ter designer of skis. He also offers weekly the French school holidays in February, world telemark champion. Both of them or seasonal skiing courses, in partnership when the slopes have closed in the are originally from Morillon. Opening dates of the resort: with the ESF (French Ski School) for bud- evening, the Marvel slope is reserved for ding young skiers (‘etoile d’or’ or class 3 those who want to try out this exceptional 2020-2021: 5km-long sledging experience! Partial opening from the 12th to the 18th level). Skiing in all snow conditions, special December, then full opening of the Grand and giant slalom, video analyses, ‘flèche’ Massif from the 19th December to 18th April. competitions and chamois: an exciting pro- NEW! gramme is on the cards. Sledge down the Marvel The Labérieu slope for alternative skiing activities in Morillon, from an altitude of 1,100m right down to the village at 700m. A day of skiing in Morillon 12pm

8am 09:30am 5pm EXPERIENCES - TOUR OF THE SLOPES EXPERIENCES - TOUR

10 11 9pm

8amThe day begins with a cup of coffee with Raymond at 11amNow we head to the fun areas for the borders, woops and the bar “Le Bon Coin”, next to Morillon cable car. The other raised bends, or to solve the riddles on the long and 5pmAre you eager to head back down the slopes? When the perfect occasion to meet the ski lift team, the trackers famous Marvel green run, dotted with educational panels. slopes close, why not go sledging down the 5km-long of the Grand Massif and other locals from the area, and Can you find the Ptarmigan hiding on the side of the slope? Marvel slope, as a couple or with the whole family, to a great way to get all the useful information about the Another option: go up to Flaine to admire the view of enjoy the very last moments before the sun goes down? day ahead! Mont Blanc. Those with an Instagram account, when you arrive at the top of the Sairon charlift, there’s an exceptional viewpoint to take that perfect sunset photo. 9pmAfter treating yourself to a local cheese speciality at one of the restaurants in Morillon, come and talk about the excitement of the day and enjoy a concert from a 100% 09:30amOff we go for a day of skiing! We get warmed up slowly 2pmAfter a break for lunch at one of the picnic areas around local band, Zoubab et ses Acolytes! with a superb view, on the 7 Frères slope, and then the ski area, or at one of the Morillon mountain restaurants head down towards Morillon 1100 on the Sairon slope or such as “L’Igloo” or “le Chalet d’Clair”, now you’re ready 7pmAfter all that exercise, you deserve a treat. It’s now time to Marvel slope, and through the forest to really make sure to explore the rest of the Grand Massif! In the afternoon, come and taste a Giffre Beer or other pick-me-up* at one you’re properly warmed up! you’ll also have the opportunity to try out another activity of the bars “L’Beu”, “Le 7”, “la Combe” or “le Morillon” at Map of the slopes such as dog-sledding, fatbike, survivalism or a trip over the Morillon 1100 Les Esserts resort... Or if you’re staying to a winter canyon... in the village of Morillon, head to “la Puzze”, “Yeti” or “Bon Coin”.

*in moderation Where can we go to ski? Live from the webcams A closer look at the NORDIC Haut-Giffre Nordic area SKIING IN

THE PLAIN FER-À-CHEVAL JOUX PLANE GIFFRE 670-900m 950m 1,700m 4 green runs - 2 blue runs - 2 1 green run - 3 blue runs 3 green runs - 2 blue runs - 2 connecting red runs A 10km loop through a superb red runs Along the river Giffre, there’s a gentle natural area, from Molliet to the In Verchaix, you are guaranteed uphill section that leads to Samoëns, Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval; add on snow all winter at this high-mountain EXPERIENCES - TOUR OF THE SLOPES EXPERIENCES - TOUR Morillon and Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, near extra intermediate loops as you site, with perfect sun exposure and 12VALLEY the villages, through the forest, wish (Molliet green loop, Pelly and a superb view of Mont Blanc and the 13 across the plain, around the lakes. Frénalay blue loops...). Giffre Valley.

Let’s set the scene: A setting worthy of the Great North, in a valley that is passionate about Nordic skiing! To all those looking for the best place for Nordic skiing, there are 3 different sectors within the AN INTRODUCTION TO Haut-Giffre ski area: Morillon, Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval and Joux Plane. Overall there are 19 slopes and 55km, for the three main NORDIC DISCIPLINES disciplines, suitable for beginners or experts: cross-country skiing, LES HIVERNALES DU HAUT-GIFFRE skating and biathlon, as well as other Nordic activities including dog-sledding or snowshoeing. SUNDAY 24TH JANUARY 2021 The Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, Samoëns, Morillon and Verchaix resorts are pulling out all the stops so you can discover a wide range of Fancy trying your hand at A fun Nordic experience? Nordic activities, all in the exceptional Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval! The Nordic skiing? Head over to the two “Nordic parks” Hivernales du Haut-Giffre is a fun and festive day to find out (free- For beginner’s or more advanced of the Haut-Giffre (depending on of-charge) all about the Nordic activities available in the valley: ski skiers, the ESF and ESI ski schools snow cover) in Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval and touring, biathlon, rifle shooting, snowshoeing, introduction to offer lessons devoted to diagonal Joux Plane (Verchaix). A fun way to ‘paret’ (sledging), children’s area, fat bike, pony sledging, and stride and skating, before taking learn the basics of cross-country much more. There’s also a wide range of entertainment on you on a Nordic hiking expedition to skiing with slaloms, bumps, woops offer: educational activities with the Nature Reserve to learn the heart of the surrounding natural and other various tracks. about the wildlife in the valley, building igloos (depending environment. In Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, on snow conditions), using an avalanche transceiver, etc. you can be a biathlon champion Come and join in the fun from 10am! for the day right at the heart of the Free shuttle buses from the Tourist Offices throughout the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval, on Tuesday valley (Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval and Samoens), and from Lac Bleu in and Thursday afternoons. Morillon. Grand Massif Montagnes du Giffre Tourist Office in Sixt-Fer- à-Cheval Reconnect with nature and HIKING IN with yourself: hiking with Agnieszka THE GIFFRE Warszawska, mountain guide in Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval

Agnieszka chose Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval as her base camp 22 years ago. She had always been passionate about the mountains and VALLEY climbing in her home country, Poland, and she literally fell head over heels for this part of the valley, where she now knows all the hiking trails like the back of her hand. Agnieszska will take anyone wanting to find out more about the natural surroundings, for a walking tour or more sporty hiking trip. She passionately unveils the heart and soul and secrets of “this mountain paradise” (in her own words) that she explores all year round. Where are you going to take us? the countryside and Chambres lake; of people there, it’s in high demand. “ To heaven on earth! In the winter, it’s a great itinerary, overlooking the It is a magnetic and thrilling place! It I’ll take you snowshoeing in com- staggering Tenneverge Massif. Fac- brings a tear to my eye every time!” plete safety and often off the beaten ing this astounding wonder of Mother

track, and in the summer we'll be hik- Nature, I find it inspires respect and Is that what gave you the idea EXPERIENCES - HIKING humility, from beings as small as our- 14 ing through a very diversified natural to combine hiking and yoga 15 selves in comparison! I love the diver- Hiking here is not just about Did you know that hiking is the number environment. We are so lucky here! with Julia Barnes? sity of our valley, with its mountains, a guidebook; it’s an open book about 1 sports activity for French people I also like revealing some well-kept “It was an obvious combination! Hik- A gentle stroll forests, lakes and rivers, all just as nature and the history of the Giffre on holiday? According to a survey secrets. As a guide, I take partici- ing is a great way to connect with na- awe-inspiring as the last.” or sporty Valley and surrounding mountains, carried out by Atout France, “in light pants on half-day or full-day hiking ture, essential if you want to really feel where walkers, beginner’s or the more of increasing urbanisation, the need to trips. The walks range from easy alive. We are not in a landscape mu- Which hiking trail is the most hiking experienced, find the route to suit them. return to nature and for activities in the to difficult, and I even offer several seum here; we have to realise that we 650km of marked footpaths are great outdoors, as well as an increased days of trekking, that we call a “tour”. popular with visitors? are just as alive as this natural environ- available to use as and when you want. focus on health and well-being, could There are so many possibilities on “The Fer-à-Cheval is known as the ment, we are close to Mother Nature explain why hiking is becoming more offer, depending on the season.” pearl of the valley due to its simplic- and without her, we don’t exist. Hiking and more popular”. And the mountains ity, its beauty and I’d even go as far is very much like yoga in that it’s a remain the most popular destination. Have you got a favourite spot? to say, its magnificence. When we meditative activity, that we take to at “I enjoy going into the highlands of are there, we feel completely over- a gentle pace and in full conscious- the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval, to the whelmed, and I’m not the only one ness, allowing us to reconnect to na- Vogealle shleter via the Pas de l’Ours, who feels that way. I’ve taken a lot ture and to our own body and mind.” 5 OF OUR TOP HIKES ALPINE LAKE ALPINE PASTURES LE CRIOU GLACIAL SITE DENTS & VIEW OF MONT BLANC & PANORAMIC VIEW ICONIC PEAK OF FER-À-CHEVAL BLANCHES WITH A NIGHT IN A In the winter, it is better to knowledge of the wildlife, our Why is go on a showshoeing outing environment, these mountains, 1,100m 600m 600m 435m SHELTER Two days with a night it better to in the mountains with a guide, for the geology and history of the 6.5 hours 4 hours 4 hours 4 hours in a shelter, encounter safety reasons. In the summer: if area. Alone, these details may be chamois up in the lime- you choose to go with a guide, overlooked. And there are places A hike in the highlands, The Pointe de Chalune The chalets and the The “Bout du monde” venture into the stone peaks of the Dents you can find out about the details off the beaten track, with passages past the shelter, the lake (average difficulty):Aouille du Criou (very (ends of the earth) and Blanches, along the and landscapes that you might that only the Mountain Guides and Anterne mountain 3 mountain passes, difficult): mountain ridg- Boret chalet (quite diffi- mountains with former route taken by overlook if you are alone. A guide know about. Finally, it’s essential to pass (difficult). 1 peak, chamois, marmots. es and a viewpoint. cult): winding mountain smugglers, overlooking a guide? can provide information about the be accompanied for sporty hiking paths, waterfalls and Al- the Haut-Giffre Valley. natural environment, share their trips. pine ibex. Walking Top 5 fun hikes as a family in the . THE FER-À-CHEVAL . THE ANCIENT TINES Very1 easy 4GORGES pastures 2.5 hours – 110m Easy The magic of the waterfalls and the sheer 2 hours – 286m magnitude of the place make it truly The Vieille alpine pastures are in the highlands of An exploration of the strange gorges, one-of-a-kind. Walk through the Fer-à- Morillon, with the slopes of Les Carroz serving as shaped by the river Giffre! A refreshing Cheval (equipped with monoculars and the backdrop. This is a superb place for walking walk through this special world, with binoculars) to identify and observe the and features humid pastures and a beautiful spruce steps that make it easier to explore. At mountain wildlife (ibex, eagles, vultures, forest. Whether you choose to stop off for a snack at the top of the gorges, a superb view etc.). The tourist offices can provide the farm or a glass of lemonade out on the terrace, over the valley awaits you. On the you with explanatory materials about you’ll enjoy these moments up on the pastures, with way back, through the entrance to the the glaciers, so that you can read and a fantastic view over Giffre Valley. gorges, there are some cliff faces that understand the Alpine landscapes much are perfect for rock climbing. On foot, by bicycle or via the chair lift, the Vieille better. Departure from the Fer-à-Cheval alpine pastures, near Morillon 1100 Les Esserts is a car park, then walk along the wide place that is accessible to all. This superb family- footpaths through the nature reserve. friendly walk will take you along mountain footpaths . SALES VALLEY and into the undergrowth (around 2.5hours on foot, with 500m difference in altitude). The whole family 5Difficult will enjoy themselves, especially on very hot days! . THE LORNAZ TRAIL 5 hours – 700m

From Lignon in Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, take EXPERIENCES - HIKING It is a perfect way for the children to discover life in 2Very easy the footpath towards Sales mountain the alpine pastures, walk at an altitude of 1,600m 1.5 hours – 117m 16 shelter. The first hour is a steep uphill 17 with sheep and goats roaming freely, appreciate the A pleasant and instructive walk, leaving from climb to some magnificent waterfalls: views, stop off for a well-deserved snack and then Verchaix. Along the way: 15 educational the Pleureuse, Sauffat, etc. You’ll then leave with some local products made on-site. panels on various topics including fauna, arrive at a superb plateau full of flowers flora, architectural heritage, etc. and a torrent. A very pleasant footpath along the mountainside will lead you to the shelter and alpine pastures. Make sure you keep an eye out for Alpine ibex . THE BOURGEOISE and marmots! You will return along the 3SUMMIT same footpath. Very easy 2 hours – 150m Hiking trail across the pastures, above the forest. From the Bourgeoise Summit, there’s Try out some a superb 360° view, with a breath-taking other hiking view of Mont Blanc and the surrounding trails peaks. The footpath is overlooking Giffre Valley and from up there, you can see the Jura and Switzerland.

MY VERY FIRST HIKE The self-guided hike along the Lornaz footpath in Verchaix is perfect for families and is a very easy, pleasant and instructive walk. Highlight: a very nice panoramic view of Morillon! Departure from Verchaix church. A closer look at the Alfred Wills shelter Trekking with Bruno Pezet There are 9 shelters in Haut-Giffre. One of them is perched at an altitude from shelter to shelter of 1,800m at the heart of Sixt Nature Reserve: the Alfred Wills shelter, and Bruno Pezet has been the caretaker there for 16 years now. Because an experience staying at a mountain shelter is all about the people you meet there, Bruno Pezet tells us all about life up there. Why did you become caretaker of What is life like at Alfred Wills a shelter? shelter? “I was a ski instructor in the winter and “It is a rustic-style shelter, divided into two I started managing the shelter in “Anterne” buildings (a former fruit farm and a mountain (the other name for the shelter) in the chalet) with facilities to sleep 50, in summer. I’ve been doing that for 16 years dormitories with all the necessary facilities: now! I love the Alpine pastures and the shower, toilet, quilts, pillows, etc. Staying at mountains; “Anterne” is an exceptional a shelter is all about getting back to basics: place! It is amazing working in these pack light, just bring a sheet or hire one mountains. From mid-June to the end of when you arrive! Included in your overnight September, I work here to welcome and stay is a bed, dinner and breakfast the next meet the hikers passing through! Alfred morning. We speak several languages. For Wills is a communal shelter and is open dinner you can expect a traditional Savoyard to all. I love being up there!” Fondue, vegetarian options, special hiker’s meat dishes, polenta and Nepalese cuisine. What is special about the Alfred The environment surrounding the shelter is Wills shelter? very green, with rivers and streams flowing “Its setting in the middle of Sixt Nature past; a great place for children to run about, Reserve; it is accessible and completely and they also enjoy exploring around isolated at the same time. It’s not difficult the outdoor terrace. At Alfred Wills, your EXPERIENCES - HIKING 18 to get to (but only on foot) and when you first overnight experience at a shelter is 19 arrive, you find yourself in the middle of guaranteed to be a great one!” nowhere! It brings a very pleasant sense of calmness!” Do you organise special Nepa- lese-themed evenings and events? How do we get there? “Our chef here is from Nepal and we have “We get there on foot from Sixt-Fer-à- a strong connection with the country Cheval and more specifically the Rouget through the “Play for Nepal” association. Waterfall. It takes two hours. This is quite On two occasions during the high season, a sporty hike, due to 720m difference we organise a slideshow presentation in altitude. You will leave from the forest at the shelter; sometimes I organise the RUAN TOUR DENTS BLANCHES TOUR FIZ TOUR and pass by the Pleureuse waterfall event entitled “6,000 years of pastures in The very best trekking adventure for You can’t go wrong! Along the A great classic, generally over 2 which is absolutely magical! Then we go Anterne”. The Conservatoire d’Espaces hiking! A trekking expedition spread former smuggler’s route, this days. The Fiz mountain range is be- through the “lanches” (screes with sparse Naturels de Haute-Savoie, who manage over several days, with overnight Franco-Swiss itinerary will take tween Giffre Valley and Mont Blanc, vegetation) before arriving at the entrance the nature reserve, also organise events stays in shelters, across French you through the mountains, and is a magical place in terms of to the pastures, with Mont Blanc serving as here throughout the summer.” Who is and Swiss territory. The most varied forests, across pastures and Alpine landscapes and nature. From Sixt- the backdrop. Sheep have been grazing How do you manage the natural Alfred Wills? and in an authentic superb Alpine passages in the limestone Dents Fer-à-Cheval or Passy: several 2 to here since 1974 and it’s a favourite habitat resources, for the everyday oper- setting, with some great views! Blanches mountains, overlooking 7-day trails are available, to choose for marmots! You are right at the heart of ation of the shelter? Alfred Wills (1828-1912) was a judge Haut-Giffre Valley in Haute-Savoie depending on your needs. The itin- Sixt-Passy Nature Reserve!” “How can you welcome 50 people to the from the English court, passionate and the Val d’Illiez in Valais. To be erary will take you through the Sixt- shelter without using too many resources? about the mountains, and he came done over three days (sporty trek) Passy Nature Reserve and there Is the shelter a departure point for In the high mountains it’s not easy to access to Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval in around 1850 or 5 days (long trek), to enjoy this are 9 shelters along the way, with 4 trekking expeditions? resources and there are no 4x4 access to build a “holiday chalet” at the superb setting, and encounter hours’ walk between each one, ac- “Trekking is very popular at the moment! roads. At the heart of the reserve, the Fonds pastures. He explored every chamois, ibex and marmots who will cessible from June to September. At the heart of the nature reserve, Alfred shelter has had to adapt to this situation. nook and cranny of the pastures cross paths with you along the way. Wills can also be the departure point for It’s a kind of modern energy laboratory! and mountains and discovered the a 3-day trekking expedition. The shelter Find out about For example water and electricity are used passages and peaks. His succes- works together with all the other shelters. other trekking sparingly.” sors even built their own shelter at expeditions. Including Chatelet d’Ayères shelter Find out more! the Collet d’Anterne. He made a key (5 hour’s walk) and Platé shelter: the ideal contribution to the development of trio of shelters for a 3-day hiking trip through tourism in the valley. incredibly diverse landscapes, overlooking the Mont-Blanc Massif the whole way.” Make sure you are well-equipped for hiking: the check-list

Before setting off, you need to make sure you have everything you need. “The equipment you need depends entirely on your goal. If your bag is too heavy, you’ll be walking more slowly! And of course, it is essential to know how to use the equipment. For difficult hiking trails, make sure you have had proper training with the equipment, how to use it and safety”. Here are some basic recommendations from Gilles Leroy, expert survival guide, and his check-list to make sure you have what you need in your backpack, in summer or winter. A closer look at the Joux Plane IN MY HIKING BACKPACK TIP KEEP YOUR PAPERS AND TELEPHONE IN mountain pass, A WATERPROOF BAG

SUNGLASSES Having a well-organised bag is absolutely at an altitude of 1,700m A SURVIVAL essential! To be as comfortable as possible, BLANKET the load needs to be concentrated around SUN CREAM your hips and away from the shoulders. The weight should be organised so that the EXPERIENCES - HIKING 20 bag sits as close to your back as possible. 21 Heavy items should be placed in the middle A CAP of your bag, against your back, and lighter EXTRA items should be stored in outside pockets. OR A HAT LACES for your shoes

IF YOU ENCOUNTER ANY PROBLEMS PROTECTIVE CLOTHING WHILE HIKING… ON FOOT BY BICYCLE ON SKIS / SHOWSHOES TOILET AGAINST THE WIND AND RAIN PAPER (jacket with lining) Before calling any of the French HIKING IN ALPINE MAJOR MOUNTAIN PASS HIGH-ALTITUDE NORDIC emergency numbers (15, 112 or 18), make sure you localise your position. Look for PASTURES OF FRANCE AREA A HEADLAMP In the summer or winter, Joux Plane The Joux Plane mountain pass is Joux Plane is one of the top the town and exact location (peak, path name, GPS mountain coordinates). You mountain pass is the perfect start- one of the six major mountain pass- destinations for Nordic activities, will be asked to provide information about ing point for hiking trips towards the es in the French mountains, along with marked cross-country skiing the nature of the accident (road, fire, fall, Bourgeoise peak, the Tête d’Angol- with Galibier, Mont Ventoux or Tour- tracks and superb panoramic views. malaise, etc.), the number of victims and lon, to cross the Tête de Vuargne malet. Along this mountain pass, It’s invigorating up there with the their ages. Listen to the advice given and (on foot or with snowshoes), with there’s a section overlooking the 360° view at the Bourgeoise, and A SMALL FIRST AID KIT instructions of what to do. Make sure an exceptional view of Mont Blanc whole valley. It’s a great mountain skiing through nature in the Croz including: antiseptic solution, WATER someone is visible and they wait there the whole way. The number 1 hiking trail (13.9km), where it’s important sector - La Mouille au Bois Lairon, compresses, plasters, at least 1.5 litres for the emergency services, do not hang trail? “Along the ridges from Joux to pace yourself. The first cyclists to one of the entrances to Loex plateau 1 bandage, 1 roll of adhesive up the phone because you will be put Plane to the Bourgeoise”: this hik- take on Joux Plane were the Tour (a classified biotope area). Natural through to a doctor (it could take a few plasters, maybe a pair of tick A JUMPER OR JACKET ing trail departs from Verchaix, with de France participants in 1978, and snow cover and animal footprints tweezers minutes BUT the emergency services very high passages along the ridg- since then it has become one of the make this a magical place. Joux fleece-style, thick or thin, depending have been notified). on the season and the temperature. es, from the Joux Plane mountain iconic mountain passes of the sec- Plane is a Nordic area that is both Good to know: if you can’t dial 112 pass to the Bourgeoise peak, where tions through the Alps. The Tour de sporty, with a difference in altitude because you have no signal, send an a view of Samoens and Giffre Valley France has been here 17 times. For of 370m, and family-friendly, with SMS, email or chat message to 114. If awaits you. This 4.17km trail will take cyclists, Joux Plane is a magnificent introductory sessions at the ESF ski HIGH ENERGY SUPPLEMENTS the person doesn’t speak French: call 112 around 1 hour and 35 minutes, with summit to be conquered. school, where you can also try out (gingerbread, cereal bars, and you will be provided with an inter- a difference in altitude of 179m. biathlon, just like the champions. dried fruit, etc.) preter, for whatever language you need. Ski touring in your DNA with Christophe Avocat-Gros Go skiing off-piste and enjoy the natural, calm and wild side of the mountains... For this experience you’ll be equipped with ski skins under your skis for the ascent, and in freeride mode on the way back down, accompanied with a professional who will help you discover this thrilling activity. Ski touring is a combination of fitness and cardio, and it has been booming over the past years at the resort, and more and more people are trying out this activity. Let’s have a closer look at this winter hiking activity that is so popular in the Grand Massif, with Christophe Avocat-Gros, director of the Morillon French Ski School (ESF), who have 65 instructors, some of whom are expert ski touring guides.

“Skiing is not something that comes altitude) or more advanced sessions naturally, whether its alpine skiing, (1,000m), Morillon Ski School (ESF)

off-piste or ski touring! We need to has passionate instructors who EXPERIENCES - HIKING know the techniques to be able to get are specialised in ski touring and 22 pleasure out of it, and to ensure our freeride skiing. “It’s important to be 23 safety”, explains Christophe. “The Giffre accompanied by an instructor because Mountains are perfect for ski touring, it is forbidden to go ski touring up an with off-piste itineraries ranging from Alpine ski slope; and for the descents, easy to advanced, some of which you need to go off-piste. It’s better to are well-known. We are surrounded begin with freeride skiing; which is by mountains with no rocks, wooded also something we offer at the ESF areas and it’s all easy-to-access. For the throughout the winter season. We also more advanced skiers, Mont Buet with provide all the necessary safety gear: a summit at 3,090m is a great objective spade, sensor, avalanche transceiver, before taking on Mont Blanc”, he adds. etc.”, reminds Christophe, who gives 1. Lignon Chalet Whether you’re looking for introductory us his top 3 guided ski touring outings. 400m difference in altitude, leaving sessions (400/500m difference in from Rouget Waterfall (Sixt-Fer- à-Cheval); a loop via the Pelly de Try out ski Find out about touring with Sales and Geais bridge. Total of 3.5 all the guides the ski schools and the outings across the hours with an easy descent. they propose valley 1 SNOWSHOEING OUTING NEW 2. Bostan mountain shelter PER DAY 3 HOURS MARKED ITINERARIES At an altitude of 1,763m, with a dif- ference in altitude of 700m, leaving with Arnaud Rétrif, LABERIEU SLOPE RANDO PARK from Allamands; a technical full-day mountain guide The “Labérieu” slope in Morillon Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval is opening ski touring trail, average to difficult. has been marked out for ski “rando park”, right at the heart touring and new mountain sports of the ski area, for introductory 3. Bostan mountain pass MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY A day (fat bike and yooner). You’ll be sessions, to practice and to work Bighorn sheep at The animals of The superb views Panoramic views of views in the At an altitude of 2,290m, 1,300m skiing back down this blue run on your skills. This new area is the Pointe d’Uble Sixt Nature Re- from Bourgeoise and animal Loex mountains difference in altitude. Technically around the chalets and across completely marked out and is Massif serve peak footprints at Loex difficult: for experienced hikers. pastures. 100% devoted to this activity, Plateau for sporty or more easy-going 200m 220m 300m 250m 250m sessions, in complete safety. The "Ends of the earth", is a perfectly good phrase to describe the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval. At the far end of Giffre Valley, there’s an amphitheatre of rocky cliffs and hidden treasures within. It is the second biggest natural 'cirque’ in France, with 50 waterfalls. The bearded vulture can be seen circling up above Sixt Nature Reserve and the summits, including the majestic Tenneverge at an altitude of 2,989m and Mont Buet (3,096m), known as “Mont Blanc des Dames”, where the very first Alpine high-mountain climb took place in 1770. The ‘cirque’ is a major advantage for Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, in obtaining the ‘Grand Site de France’ label, hopefully in the near future. This classified natural site is perfect for hiking, walking and trail running, with a pleasant and well-deserved break in one of the 9 mountain shelters. This itinerary has been tried and tested by “The French Outdoors”. A thrilling mountain- ous terrain where yoga and music lovers from all over the world come in search for inspiration. Article about the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval, the people here and the must-sees.

Where did the name "Fer-à-Cheval” come from? Fer-à-Chevel is French for “horseshoe” and it describes the semi-circular shape of the cliffs here. Ends of the earth © David Casartelli Operation ‘Grand Site de France’ At the heart with Mathieu Battais of Sixt-Passy With 80% of its territory classified, and boasting a nature reserve, the Cirque de Fer-à-Cheval and Rouget Waterfall, Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval can apply for the ‘Grand Site de France’ label. Mathieu Battais, project manager at Nature Reserve the Joint Association for the ‘Grand Site de Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval’, is responsible for getting the operation ‘Grand Site de France’ up and running, and preparing their application for this label. He tells us all about this process that Sixt Nature Reserve is one of the biggest of will lead to the classification and showcase a real treasure of natural heritage in our valley. its kind in France, and the most widespread of the Haute-Savoie French department. What is a ‘Grand Site de France’? to stand out, to increase attractivity and regular discussion sessions known as “the There are two huge glacial ‘cirques’ here, “It’s an iconic landscape in France. Today, showcase the territory as a place visitors Grands Sites Saturdays”, so that everyone with impressive waterfalls: the Cirque du there are 18 places bearing this label and can expect a unique experience, all while feels involved in this development project Fer-à-Cheval and the Cirque des Fonts. around twenty applications are currently protecting the area. The challenge is for Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval.” The sheer diversity of the natural habitats being considered, including Sixt-Fer- finding the right balance between nature (humid areas, mixed woodland, cliffs, à-Cheval. All of them have something and tourism. This is what we’re working on How would you define ‘Grand Site grass, prairies, ‘landes’, etc.), a surface in common: they are all breath-taking at the moment, by moving parking areas, area of 9,000 hectares and a difference in Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval’? places! These charming destinations creating educational and themed trails, altitude of 2,100 metres, means that there “Sixt is the ‘ends of the earth’! There’s only have been protected since 1930 by the exhibition points, catering facilities, etc.” is rich and diverse wildlife here: more than one road in. Once you’ve parked your “classified sites” law. They are beautiful, 800 plant species, including no less than car, you need to take your time exploring rare and fragile areas.” Where are we in the process for 21 different species of orchids. There are the place. The further you go, the more 166 vertebrate animal species such as the obtaining the label? intimate and authentic places you Alpine ibex, chamois or the golden eagle. Why is Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval “We are currently looking at our strategy discover. It’s magical! We are in a glacial It is also the lucky chosen habitat for the applying for this label? with the launch of our action plan for the valley, in the high mountains (3,000m), next 15, 20 years, in partnership with the but the differences in altitude are not iconic bearded vulture, with a couple of “The territory known as ‘Grand Site de THE CIRQUE DU FER-À-CHEVAL these birds of prey settled in Sixt-Fer-à- Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval is a real treasure of the departmental council, architect design very significant, so the area is accessible 26 Cheval. What challenges does the site face? natural and cultural heritage of Haute- offices, landscape gardeners and tourism to all. The exceptional waterfalls, streams, 27 To ensure the protection of its heritage Savoie. It stretches way beyond the 11,907 experts. It’s all about setting down the summits, cliffs, undergrowth all make the sites, while ensuring a place for mankind. hectares of municipal land. It includes a main guidelines together and asking our- exploration of this area like something That’s why this territory is a member of the part of the Nature Reserve, the Cirque du selves the right questions: which projects out of a fairytale. Visitors make their way ‘Grands Sites de France’ network. Fer-à-Cheval, the famous Rouget Waterfall, do we need to put in place for the Cirque around the area, step-by-step towards the Sales Waterfalls, the Anterne hiking and flow of visitors there, the centre of the the wonderful: ‘Ends of the earth’!” The people of the nature reserve trails and so much more. This operation village and facilities, the Tines and preser- Franck Miramand is a guide and technician means that this remarkable landscape vation of the area, transport, eco-friendly www.grand-site-sixt.fr for the CEN (Conservatoire d'Espaces can be protected over the long-term and modes of transport, etc. and in which order Naturels) and Fabrice Anthoine is the its beauty preserved. To obtain the ‘Grand we need to tackle these issues. Members ranger of the nature reserve. They ensure Site de France’ label, a territory needs of the local council meet with the locals for the protection of this sensitive natural area, managed by the ‘Conservatoire d'Espaces Naturels’ of Haute Savoie. istry of Tourism, and responsible for the pro- Come and explore! The Cirque du tection of classified sites for the Ministry of To learn all about this area and understand Ecology. He developed a passion for this ter- the issues at stake, there are various events Fer-à-Cheval is ritory and is now a specialist in assisting local and workshops organised over the summer communities, striving to preserve the balance (observations, meetings at the summit and a natural historical between the environment and economic de- children’s workshops), and in the winter monument velopment. His role is similar to that of an ar- (roving). There is also an exhibition open chitect for historical French buildings, but his to the public at the Maison de la Réserve MATHIEU BATTAIS ‘building’ is natural spaces. “I really wanted to Naturelle in Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval. get involved in a project and I was particular- is passionate about the de- ly attracted to this one. I wanted and needed velopment of this territory to get back to the mountains. This project I’m leading is also important to me on a person- Since January 2018, he has been leading the al level; to see my children grow up in such project for the ‘Grand Site de France’ label. a preserved and precious environment”, ex- He was previously in charge of promoting the plains this lover of the Giffre Mountains, origi- “Villes et Villages Fleuris” label with the Min- nally from the Jura department of France. © David Casrtelli - Sixt Fer à Cheval from the top of the Pointe Sans Bêt Sans the Pointe the top of Fer à Cheval from - Sixt © David Casrtelli THE CIRQUE DU

Live from the FER-À-CHEVAL webcams The Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval is also the venue for music and well- ness in the open air. Here, we take the time to breathe, relax, unwind, spend some quality time, while getting the very most out 4 WAYS of this superb natural area. . 'Zen’ & . Invigorating 2 holistic 3Rouget Waterfall One of the top 10 most extraordinary Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval waterfalls in France*! This is the highest of the yoga festival 50 waterfalls in Sixt, and it flows all year long 4th edition - 21st, 22nd and 23rd from Sales torrent upstream, and runs into the Giffre des Fonds downstream, forming August 2020* THE CIRQUE DU FER-À-CHEVAL Over this 3-day event, there will be around the Petit Giffre in the commune of Sixt-Fer-à- 28 thirty different kinds of entertainment and Cheval. It has two separate flows and falls for 29 . As for Benjamin Caill, the virtuoso of the workshops centred around yoga, a wellness 90m. It’s easy to access as it is only 6km from 1 Acoustic valley, the audience is really in for a treat! village will be set up in the Abbey gardens, the village and at an altitude of 1,000m. An Les Musicales du We were lucky enough to combine his and there’ll be big open-air sessions with opportunity for a 1.5 to 2.5-hour walk, there masterful work with a slideshow of David Simon Park, an American and internationally- and back, along a footpath that is suitable for Casartelli’s photos. It was magical!” ex- renowned master yoga teacher (see p. 52). all. You can also reach the waterfall by car; Fer-à-Cheval Yoga and climbing, relaxing Thai massages, Added to this exceptional setting, is an plains Laurent Vriez, operational manag- an option for those with reduced mobility. A Yoga & hiking, Afghan walking, dynamic yoga, exceptional concert with André Manouki- er, in charge of events at the Grand Mas- dramatic and refreshing experience! “instinct flow”: the perfect programme to get * ‘Détours en France’ classification. an, as the sponsor and face of this orig- sif Montagnes du Giffre Tourist Office. started or improve your skills in a relaxing inal musical event. For the very first edi- “zen” atmosphere, at just the right altitude, to tion, the famous French writer-composer, start your day on the right foot. Walks around Rouget Waterfall, in and British jazz singer Malia, brought the A word from “I identified the ‘cirque’ as the perfect place, the summer or winter! Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval to life... A fan- with the right vibe, ideal for a big yoga session, Spring / summer hike (01/05 to 30/11) and André Manoukian: snowshoe hike in winter (15/12 to 31/03): tastic piano/vocals duo in a superb nat- “I had never been to the Cirque to bring participants into the heart of this be- two ways to reach the waterfall and wit- ural setting, and a one-of-a-kind musical du Fer-à-Cheval, this natural witching place. Naturally, from this idea came the suggestion for a bigger festival version, us- ness the water or ice show provided by the event, the success of which is also thanks site with so many hidden nooks to Benjamin Caill, a pianist from the valley. ing other places in the area like the centre of “Queen of the Alps”. and crannies. It’s just as beau- village, adapted especially for the event. We “What’s the concept? To bring together tiful as my homeland (editor’s the emotion of music, and the contempla- pause time, to really get back to basics and to note: )! It’s even more find yourself through yoga practices in a re- tion of a landscape in a majestic setting. surprising in fact, with the wa- laxed atmosphere, at this modestly-sized fes- This perfect venue provides the artistic terfalls providing a refreshing tival, where yoga is also associated with other backdrop of the event. However, the natural water mist! I absolutely disciplines such as climbing, hiking and music”, waterfalls landscape not only serves as the decor love performing in the great out- explains Laurent Vriez. flow from the cliffs and snowfields La Pierette, one of the highest, known village, you can find Dard waterfall and or backdrop, it also creates a symbiosis doors. This place inspired me, *Depending on health regulations in place at the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval, at an as the Fontaine d’Or (golden fountain), in the Fond de la Combe Valley: Rejon, with an acoustic artistic programme that 0 it’s breath-taking; performing altitude of over 2,000m. Embark on an and not far from there, the Méridienne. Cage, Scie, Violon and Gouille. It’s up to provides a simple, flowing sound, reflect- here in harmony with the natu- exploration along the marked hiking Up on the cliffs, the Joaton, Pissevache, you to find them! ing the very heart and soul of the Cirque. ral environment was memora- 5trails! Some of them, including the Fond La Lyre (the most beautiful), the Genette To help you, ask for the waterfalls tour From the outset, I wanted to invite André ble. I would like to be the official de la Combe and Nant des Pères get and upstream of the same Saint- documentation from the Grand Massif Manoukian to perform for the first edi- sponsor for ‘Musicales’ for a long their source from the glaciers. Under Jacques torrent, the Citerne, Folly, Montagnes du Giffre Tourist Office. tion; this artist has experience perform- time! And I dream of coming the Corne du Chamois, we recommend Massue... Downstream, above Brairet ing in the mountains. He is a wonderful here to ‘the ends of the earth’.” pianist and has great presence on stage. .Enigmatic 4When “The French Outdoors” explore the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval Upon invitation from "The French Outdoors" (read p.31), 40 photogra- phers, passionate about the great outdoors, went on a 4-day expedi- tion alone to the heart of the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval and Sixt Nature Reserve. At the end of their “Instameet", they named the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval as their number one place for exploration. One of them,

Céline Ducrettet, tells us about her experience. © photo: Fabio Comparelli - intothefab The French Outdoors

Céline Ducrettet’s with Mickaël Peralta The French Outdoors is an association that was founded by Olivia, Vincent “Instameet” and Mickael, all photographers, passionate about the great outdoors, and way over the peak of Mont Blanc! Those Instagrammers. The idea of organising an expedition in the Cirque du Fer- are definitely my two favourite moments à-Cheval and to capture the magic of the place in pictures came about after of this adventure; as well as the holiday a conversation on Instagram. The first year, they explored the Pyrenees. camp atmosphere we experienced the For their “Instameet” 2019 in the Alps, 40 Instagrammers explored the whole time, full of laughter and support Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval for a one-of-a-kind 4-day adventure. when we needed it, at more difficult times. Grenairon, Vogealle and Alfred Wills; we What do the 7,000 members of The THE CIRQUE DU FER-À-CHEVAL French Outdoors all have in common? also used the mobile app "whympr" to 30 “Photography, passion for nature and help us with our itineraries”. 31 sharing our discoveries on Instagram; Probably the 4 showcasing the beauty of the places we What will you remember from greatest days of my are lucky to have in France. And for our your adventure? life “Instameet 2019”, we chose the Cirque “An absolutely fantastic experience, and On the 30th May 2019, I set off du Fer-à-Cheval! The 40 photographers some great times spent together! Over on my first trekking experience, for the Instameet 2019 came from all the 4 days, we only had 15 minutes of organised by The French Outdoors. 4 over France and Switzerland”. telephone network coverage; unheard days of hiking through Sixt Nature Re- of for Instagrammers but a unique op- serve with other passionate, profession- Why did you choose the Cirque du portunity for us nature lovers! Cut-off al photographers. Over these 4 days, Fer-à-Cheval in 2019? from the rest of the world, we experi- we explored “the ends of the earth” HER “For us, there are two iconic places for enced some special times throughout (Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval), all the way to those who are passionate about the our trek, campfires with no telephones; Grenairon shelter, via Fonts shelter. The FAVOURITE SPOTS mountains: the Pyrenees and the Alps. we learnt to get to know each other, for landscapes were absolutely incredible. IN GIFFRE VALLEY After Gavarnie, the Cirque du Fer-à- real! The people we met were just as The Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval really is Cheval is the 2nd biggest ‘cirque’ in special as the expedition itself; that’s “My favourite places in Giffre an unmissable place in Haute-Savoie. France, so we wanted to explore this why we launched The French Outdoors”. Valley: the Cirque du Fer-à- I’m from this area and I knew about well-reputed place for hiking and the Cheval and the exceptional view this place but I’d never been to any of views overlooking Mont Blanc. It was Which photos do you remember the shelters. What a mistake! At Fonts at the ends of the earth, the the perfect playground with all the right the most?

blue lake in Morillon with such © photo: mickaël_peralta shelter, we were surrounded by the conditions. We contacted the Sixt-Fer-à- an intense colour, and the walk “The absolutely incredible sunset over mountains, and it really makes you feel Cheval Tourist Office for help creating along the Giffre to Dames Lake Mont Blanc from Granairon shelter: mag- so tiny. At Grenairon shelter, we had a our itinerary for our 4-day expedition. in Samoens, with the reflection of ical! Exploring the ‘cirque’ and sleeping superb view of the valley down below, We were also lucky to be able to prepare the Fiz mountains and the Mont Blanc Criou mountain in the water”. under the starry sky at the far end of the for our trip beforehand with the help of Discover the She loves to share the places nature reserve: the first night was unfor- adventure Massif. We couldn’t believe our eyes! It some guides from Sixt, for the markings, she discovers in France and gettable!” wasn’t always easy for me to walk with the shelters we would be eating at, and abroad; landscapes and more a 15kg bag on my back, but it was worth where we would be pitching our tents: #thefrenchoutdoor2019 specifically mountains and lakes! it to see one of the most beautiful sun- #thefrenchoutdoors sets I’ve ever seen in the mountains, @celineducrettet

© photo: Céline Ducrettet @mickael_peralta and to be able to photograph the milky www.thefrenchoutdoors.fr 32 SECTION TITLE share theterritory withpassion. make ittheirhome, andtheyall wantto natives ofthis land orhavechosento Jean-Pierre Chaigneauare all either Casartelli, Jérôme Guillot, Anne and brothers, GuillaumeWagemans, David Argeline Tan-Bouquet, theMichaud authentic, daringand inspiring. of thevalleyandGiffre mountains: They are the embodiment of the spirit only 25 years old. only 25yearsold. physiotherapist byday,andthen‘free-heeler’ontheslopes,she’s day. Thissurprisingwomanmanagesbeautifullyherdoublelife,asa and forthissport,whichshehopestocompeteintheOlympicsone from thecrowd:ambassadorofmountainssheholdssodearly, smile. ArgelineisoriginallyfromMorillon,andshereallystandsout champion for2019, ArgelineTan-Bouquet’s sparklingeyesandbright You can see the passion and determination in vice world telemark Argeline Tan-Bouquet ‘free-heeler’ The ultimate This didn’t stopthefanofpowder thighs wereburning!” fell overevery two metres and my fall andwewentintothepowder, I just had30centimetresof snow I rentedalltheequipment.We had ciation thathadjustbeenfounded. discipline inSamoenswithanasso- of myparents.Idecidedtochange champion backthen,andafriend in Houches,withAlbinTissot,world to participateinaweek-long course at theageof12.Iwasluckyenough when Ididanintroductorysession “I first tried out telemark skiing Telemark, aconcidence her belt,inthejuniorcategory. few impressiveachievementsunder vice worldchampionfor2019, witha the rightchoicebecauseshe’s now telemark skiing.Thiswasobviously another path,andendeduptrying she admits.Sodecidedtotake skiing racesanymore, itwasn’t fun”, 2’ season“Iwasn’t enjoyingalpine age of17andduringthe‘minimes peared tobemappedout.Butatthe as analpineskiingchampionap- ing wellintoherteens.Herfuture up on the resort’s slopes, compet- club assoonshecouldandgrew Massif. ShejoinedMorillon’s ski discipline on the slopes of Grand of 6andgotherfirsttasteforthis She arrivedinthevalleyatage - champion. “I lostspectacularly”, explainsthe and then her first world cup in 2011. French championshipsforaseason ing techniques. She competedin the others,withextraordinarycarv tainly helped,shewasfasterthan the experienceinalpineskiingcer Lys, shecamefirstfor hercategory; competed inherfirstracePrazde and cross-country skiing. Whenshe is ablendofalpineskiing, skating know aboutthisdiscipline, which coach. Shelearntallthereisto with Julien Annequin as her main Team Telemark attheweekend, and trainedwiththeSamoens monix, she skied during the week at highschoolthetimeinCha ‘free-heel’ technique!Shewasstill a revelation:shereallytooktothe second time. Onthatday, shehad known disciplineatthetime, fora snow, whotriedthislargelyun- pened thatday.” ... in Sprint,somethingstrange hap- lognan. ThedaybeforeIcame2nd was just23yearsold:“ItinPra years ofpractice;2018,whenshe This wasTHEhighlightafter10 Her firstworldcupvictory Facebook/argelinetanbouquet Instagram/argelinetan - - - - Find outmore 33 SPOTLIGHT[S] The “Made in Morillon” They were asked to create small “We were working too much to be was always work here, we earned SPOTLIGHT[S] 34 items of furniture and interior able to become ski instructors. But a living and we never questioned 35 renovation “in old wood”. Since we still enjoyed the slopes, in our it. We’ve always been happy here. wood guys they supposedly “retired”, they own way!” declares Maurice who, Back when everything was done have built their nephew and niece’s one day, when he was just 20 years on horseback, bicycle or on foot; house and renovated their family old, had the idea of making two small we just got on with it. We took our The Michaud brothers chalet. The artists have seen a wooden skis for the descent down time. Nobody had a “thingamajig” number of trends over the years, Les Esserts during the carnival. What back then (editor’s note: mobile We went to meet Maurice and some wonderful creations. In their the farming industry behind them, without necessarily bowing to was special about them? Both ends phone). We love our valley, it is still big workshop that has accompanied and learn a trade. What a good idea them; but they always follow the were raised! Without even realising as authentic as ever”. And for those André at their workshop, a place current, ready to offer their services. it, Maurice invented twin-tip skis. who don’t know Morillon, Maurice them through the decades, they that was. The Michaud brothers then they’ve never left, where they And that’s still the case today. The duo also remembers making has some wise words for you: “If are still creating furniture, boxes lived happily ever after! were born, and where they a wooden bobsleigh. “We’ve still you want to see it, our mountains, and various objects from sculpted fine-tuned their woodworking got it! We could fit 10 of us in it, we our valley and us, you’ll just have to wood. “We always have a knife We love working skills! The two brothers, aged The chalets of Morillon and sledged down slopes that weren’t come here!” in our pocket, ready to sculpt groomed as they are today, or down 77 and 78 respectively, are development of the resort these little pieces something”, explains André. The The two natives of Morillon were the the snow-covered roads of Morillon, an inseparable duo of brave two brothers are inseparable, first to witness the transformation of of wood in the evening, with an electric and hard-working retired they first discovered their trade as their village into a small ski resort in torch. We followed the horse tracks woodworkers, still working at apprentices in then, at the 60s, and they were at the forefront: that the wood skidded along in their sanctuary at the heart of the age of 18, they both gained their their skills were required to build the Who do we call when we have an the day; we absolutely flew down old wooden door that’s falling apart? them, it was so funny!”, remembers Morillon, their hometown. If experience working for 20 years very first rental chalets. “This transfor- mation brought construction work to The Michaud brothers always have Maurice, with a boyish smile on his there were a register for human for a company in and then 5 years in La Rivière-Enverse, the area; labour was needed!” explains a knife in their pockets, ready to face! Since forever, they have been heritage of the village, this duo practise their trade. Maurice’s carved making the “Babu”, the mascot for always together, and always in Maurice. This was when they decided to dove, André’s sculpted pictures or the Carnival, and it is still tradition would be at the top of the list. the local area. “You have to steal open their own workshop. What a great idea! They worked on creating beauti- magic boxes take up the little spare today to set it on fire at the end of the yourself a trade; observe the older, ful roofing for the chalets, organised the time they grant themselves. winter season. In the workshop, the With all the due humility they more experienced than yourself, deserve, the Michaud brothers call interior layout, and all the joinery; in Mo- circular saw, planer and all the other Find out more because they know things”, explains tools are still in action. And when themselves carpenters/craftsmen. rillon and Samoens, and all the way to Maurice, the inventor of the André. The village schoolteacher they are asked why they never left They are actually real artists, with , Les Gets and Arve Valley. The twin-tip skis... first noticed that these two brothers emergence of Formica in the 70s didn’t this place, they always reply: “We an appetite for life, and a passion This hardworking duo doesn’t have had a gift; their father decided they stop them. Because the trend for wood much time left for leisure activities! never felt the need to leave. There for wood, from which they produce would leave the alpine pastures and soon came back even stronger. The brewer who is quenching the thirst of the valley at his own pace Guillaume Wagemans

An eye on the valley David Casartelli What could be more natural than a Belgian who makes beer! Beer is an

institution in Belgium, just as wine is in France; it’s a natural part of the Find out more! culture there! The Giffre and surrounding mountains inspired Guillaume to create his delicious beers with colourful characters, with just the right taste of the valley where he decided to settle, to the delight of local SPOTLIGHT[S] SPOTLIGHT[S] beer lovers. 36 37

As a lover of beer and nature, Guillaume creation. He now knows everything there the brewer chose the rhinoceros as the When photographer David Casartelli lays eyes on the landscapes of the territory, he widens our horizons. The decided to move here, to live in Verchaix, is to know about the 250 kinds of hops official logo of the brewery: an animal after having completed his studies in and he enjoys experimenting with them to that follows its course, always moving former paragliding champion likes to take to the airs over the Giffre Mountains (his mountains), to show us a business. He had recently discovered his come up with the best blends! “We come forwards, at its own pace. different view of these landscapes, that he presents in his photographic masterpieces. The artist always has an newfound passion and “was lucky enough up with all sorts of blends”, he says. He likes eye on the valley, always has his camera on-hand, to capture the moment and share his photos with us. to have lost his job”, in his own words. to use wine, cognac or bourbon barrels to The brewer worked alongside Antoine age his beers; his “Bout du monde” (ends His creations are named after de Swarte, founder of the Brasserie de la of the earth) variety got its flavours from places in the valley His life is centred around these moun- I’ve always got a day without taking a photo!” He also Vallée du Giffre, and then took over the a Bourgogne barrel. Recently he worked Just like the “Bout du monde” variety, in tains, that he finds so passionate and fas- explores the mountains on foot. Just business in 2018. Guillaume likes to say with a brewer from Bauges and had the reference to the famous and iconic hiking trail bearing the same name, in the Cirque cinating. He observes them from the big a camera on me like any other explorer, he captures the that he’s been living at the brewery for idea of filtering the beer in hay, using wild- du Fer-à-Cheval. To find the perfect windows of his chalet in the valley. This While his father was filming their quality treasures and colours he encounters on 7 years now. Because he sometimes even type yeast; with his “Bérote” variety as family time in Super 8 film, up in the works overnight, working on new recipes: a base. He was invited to the “Bière sur la image for each taste, he called upon the passionate photographer cannot resist his adventures, to share with the public: talent of Amandine Revel, to design the mountains where the family spent most of 60 different ones currently! A collection of ville” festival in Lyon, and matched his beers the call from the Giffre Mountains, that he “for those who are not lucky enough to labels; always featuring a mountain in their free time, David was discovering the flavoursome beers he creates and brews to Japanese cuisine, from his workshop in loves exploring so much, in search for the come to the Giffre Mountains, or who right here, not far from the river Giffre, Croix Rousse. the corner of the label. For the colours, first Instamatic cameras. He was hooked! hidden treasures within. At the age of 2, have never even heard of them”, says the where he collects his water source, the When creating, this micro brewer it all depends on the flavour of the beer. He spent his time reading photography he got on a pair of skis for the first time photographer. main ingredient in his sparkling creations. follows his instincts and trusts his heart. What do they all have in common? He and excelled on the Grand Massif slopes books and at 15 years old, bought his very “La Rioule” is one of his classic India Pale creates beers with a strong character, with the alpine skiing club, before falling first SLR camera; that he’s still got now. Making beer can be Ale’s. Every week, Guillaume creates just like the people of the mountains; in love with the skies up above. This for- When the champion set off on a world www.davidcasartelli.com a new beer variety and he needs 5 to distinctive, rugged and genuine, like the mer member of the French national para- paragliding tour, he took his camera with Facebook/davidcasartelliphoto just as creative as making 6 weeks to produce it. “It’s a great land. A land he loves to explore, up to the Instagram/davidcasartelliphoto gliding team then took to the skies for 12 him, and for 7 years he sent his photos soup moment when a new beer variety comes mountain peaks. “When we arrive in the years; that’s why David has this passion to and videos, shot from the world up above, to life; it’s important that I like it!” His valley, we are overwhelmed when faced Carte blanche It’s not as easy as you think to create and favourite moment in the whole process with this view of the Pic du Marcelly, and show us the views he sees from up high. to specialised magazines. That’s how his for David the impression of being at the ends of For the mountain guide, he knows the career as a photographer took off, quite Casartelli produce tasty beers! Because you need is when he mixes the grain using his a generous helping of culture, a good dose ‘fouquet’, an ancestral tool. “I love this the earth in the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval, mountains and the hiking trails like the literally, and he began working full time of creativity and the right know-how... just manual side to it because I get so much where I love to go exploring!” back of his hand. The Giffre Mountains is from that year onwards. “I’ve always got a camera with me in my backpack: my SLR like this passionate craftsman. Working at from it, actually feeling the texture and his base camp. The scene has been set, a bar specialised in beers, he was able to the dust from the malting process. That’s www.bieres-du-giffre.fr camera and my smartphone. I never go so what is his goal? gain his experience and fine-tune his art of where it all begins!” Purist and authentic, Paret sledging in “Welcome to the the valley... ends of the earth!” Jérôme Guillot at Le Pelly What makes Jérôme tick is leaving his mark in fresh snow and seeing the eager, excited glint in the eyes of the people he takes on a discovery of this contraption that was used by schoolchildren in the past, and that Campsite he, himself, now builds in his workshop: the ‘paret’ sledge. We met with Jérôme Guillot, a woodworker with a passion for this sledge. A passion Anne and Jean-Pierre Chaigneau that he shares with willing participants throughout the winter. This couple originally from the Vendée decided to move to this “For 7 years now, I’ve devoted my life sessions. He also works with groups of region six years ago, and set up their base camp in Sixt-Fer-à- to the ‘paret’ sledge”, declares Jérôme school children or holiday camps, as Cheval. Moving from the seaside to the mountains, they’ve gained with passion. 450 ‘paret’ sledges well as company team-building activities. have been created in his Verchaix This generous man sometimes provides in altitude and started a new life here with their five children. At workshop “Agencement d’autrefois”! all his equipment on loan, for example to Le Pelly Campsite, at the entrance to the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval, This woodworker gained his experience charities like “Tom en tête”, who helps they welcome hikers and nature lovers, some of them from far off by working for 3 years with a master people with disabilities or people in lands, looking to go to the “ends of the earth”. craftsman. Since then, he experiments with vulnerable social situations, to explore wood, showing the endless possibilities of the mountains. Jérôme absolutely lives its use, with his creations and innovations. for these moments with his groups. This “We arrived in Sixt almost by run into a herd of bellowing deer and clientele, we welcomed guests from In the valley, Jérôme was the first to “wooden contraption” is popular with accident. We had always seen a does. “We were on another planet”, Bulgaria, Croatia, Spain and Israel".

come up with a ‘paret’ sledge equipped people of all ages, it’s a great activity sign but we never turned right to go revealed Anne. That was the end What were they looking for? To relax SPOTLIGHT[S] SPOTLIGHT[S] with a ski. “With a ski underneath, there’s for the whole family! A whole new there!” admitted Anne when she told of working with fancy facilities: this and unwind, and to go on some superb less chance of getting stuck in the snow, community has developed in the valley 38 us about how they ended up here. place brought out a desire in them hiking trips with spectacular views. 39 compared to the traditional ‘paret’ sledge around the ‘paret’ sledge, yooner and the A desire to change their lives and to get back to working in a modestly- And to experience an overnight stay, in with a wooden blade. We can go anywhere snooc, led by a trio of fanatics, including escape to the great outdoors led sized establishment, and to focus on a Canadian-style “mountain adventure on it! And it only takes 15 minutes to learn Jérôme. “There’s even now a local group them to the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval, their guests. tent” (sleeps two), a canvas hut or the the basics before setting off”. It takes of around 30 people who share the same that has been “their office” now for “easy to camp” tents (for families) Jérôme 4 hours to make a ‘paret’ sledge passion for ‘paret’ sledging and similar the past 6 years, and the place they Sleep at the heart of the Cirque on the campsite. In 6 years, what from ash wood or spruce, and he can activities, called “Mont Paret”. We like fell in love with on that day, the 25th fascinates Anne is the sheer diversity personalise them to suit each customer. getting together, having a good time, and October 2014. “When we visited this du Fer-à-Cheval of guests they have, with whom “Once you’ve tried this activity, you don’t why not aim to organise a trip together to municipal campsite, despite the cold Le Pelly is a two-star establishment. the family often develops a close want to stop. Just like a family from Brittany the French championships in , and bad weather, we felt instantly Anyone who has stayed on this relationship: “Here, our guests come who asked me to make one for them last or even try to plan one of the stages right comfortable and completely at home campsite at the heart of the Cirque du from so many different backgrounds. winter!” declares Jérôme. A personalised here in Morillon! As soon as it snows, we here; after just a few minutes we Fer-à-Cheval will tell you: between the Hiking and the mountains encourages ‘paret’ sledge costs around 120 euros; head out to the slopes!” They organise knew that we would be moving here. thousands of stars in the sky at night a connection between people who a little more for the more 'modern’ version, the “Yoopa”, an event devoted to paret/ We were drawn to this place.” The and those in your eyes when you would probably have never had the the yooner, and a similar contraption that yooner/snooc that is very popular with couple felt seized with wake up in chance to cross paths otherwise”. The is becoming more and more popular and the people of Lyon and Grenoble. Ask emotion, captivated the morning, setting really adds to the magic of the that Jérôme knows very well, the snooc. Jérôme to concoct an outing just for you. by the magic and We’ve got the best overlooking place, and the mindset of the couple A brand-new invention will soon appear From up there on your ‘paret’ sledge, the atmosphere of the the magical also adds stars to the classification of from his workshop: “the Pahu” is expected world is your oyster. place, as Anne likes to office in the world spectacle of Le Pelly. Here, when we say “Welcome to be launched in the winter. Because, His favourite spot? The famous descent say, and they decided the waterfalls to our home”, we really mean it. Anne as Jérôme likes to say, “When the Dahu of the Criou, the iconic summit of the to leave behind their life working in and majestic and Jean-Pierre love to share their passes by, the Pahu isn’t far away”. valley, combined with a fondue. His the luxury open-air accommodation peaks, this place goes beyond all love for nature and the simple things favourite moment? At sunset “In the establishments they had been classifications. Visitors come from in life with their guests. Let’s head out on the evening, it’s amazing to head out running for 18 years in the Vendée. France, sometimes even from the slopes? equipped with a headlamp, into the wild Because here, there’s no need for valley, from Annecy, Chambery, Lyon, natural environment, with the light of the added attractions: the Cirque du Fer- Paris and sometimes from abroad, In the winter, Jérôme splits his time moon leading the way!” à-Cheval is quite enough all by itself! to explore this classified natural www.lepelly.com area. “This year, as well as our usual See the photo between his workshop and the slopes. The day before their visit, they had gallery Because this passionate woodworker Find out about is also keen on ‘paret’ sledging himself. agencementdautrefois.over-blog.com Le Pelly He takes participants up to the slopes of Facebook.com/Le-Pahu-104644791020206 the Nordic area in Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval and Joux Plane, where he leads introductory Setting off on an adventure comes naturally here! In the white-water rapids, in the air, with the animals, to relax or in a more extreme way, those looking for great food or heritage sites: everyone can push the boundaries and find brand-new pleasures to explore. And through the middle of the valley, runs a river: the Giffre summarised in 6 points In the white-water rapids! . A WALK In the Giffre canyon, the river and the waterfalls in Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, ALONG5 THE BANKS you’re guaranteed a refreshing experience in the summer, as long as you’re not afraid to get wet! The easy-going trail “Au Fil du Giffre” is like a trail of breadcrumbs to explore the valley in a different way, in a quiet, green setting. RAPIDS! - IN THE WHITE-WATER This trail is 25km long, from the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval to Taninges, with the possibility of stopping off in the villages of Rafting Canyoning the Giffre Mountains along the way, at your FOR KIDS AND THE PROS 4 WAYS own pace. Whether you decide to go on ADVENTURES foot, by bicycle or on horseback, this trail 42 From the Criou to Grand Ruan, via le As a family 43 ONE-OF-A-KIND IN FRANCE: . A SENSITIVE NATURAL can take 1.5 hours or several days. Buet and Cheval Blanc, there are so What could be more fun than sliding exclusive to the Haut-Giffre many peaks at altitudes of between and jumping in the water? You’re By night... 3AREA 2,000m and 3,000m, providing the guaranteed a fun and refreshing In the light of the moon or with sources for the waters of the Giffre, experience as a family, in a natural . A MOUNTAIN RIVER It’s a remarkable place in terms and making this area a reference for setting where the waters have headlamps, the slides, jumps and of natural heritage, due to the . AN EDUCATIONAL those looking for white-water sports. paved the way for a fun activity that is abseiling take on a whole other 146.2km: the Giffre is proportionally sheer diversity of the fauna, flora dimension! PLACE6 The river Giffre can offer some white- accessible to all. The ‘witches hole’ one of the most abundant in France. and landscapes. The river Giffre knuckle experiences between May passage, small jumps, slides, alone A tributary of the Arve, sub-tributary is protected (and labelled) by the Learn how to distinguish between a river and September, making it perfect for or with a group, with instructors from Icy! of the Rhone, this torrent came to be department of Haute-Savoie, for its and another humid place, observe and In the winter, come and discover can- rafting or hydrospeed. In July and Trekycimes. thanks to the waterfalls of the Cirque ecological and landscape value. understand where the water from the river yoning and learn about the environ- August, it is more fun and family- du Fer-à-Cheval and Ruan glacier on actually comes from and where it goes friendly, and the sporty among you mental issues at stake for the water (water cycle), and learn about the animals A shot of adrenaline! cycle. Here’s the programme for this one side, and the Cirque du Fonts can try out the airboat and canoraft. who live in this river. This is great for children The canyon in the Giffre gorges in 1.5-hour extraordinary expedition or- on the other. Its name, of Burgundian are to be experienced with ganised in Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval by Gilles origin, means “great waters”. . A PLACE FOR in groups, school trips or holiday camps. My 1st rafting experience a very low level of water. In 2.5 hours, Leroy from Latitude Canyon. Thanks The Giffre is a fantastic place to learn about you arrive at the bottom. With the 4A DOSE OF ADRENALINE the environment. The river Giffre is a calm river and to a carefully-designed educational in places, not too deep, so it’s ideal Giffre valley canyon guides. trail, explorers can learn about the The waters are calm between April and for your very first experience of Find out more techniques to adopt with the ropes, . CROSSING the end of September, and much more this water sport! From the age of 7, about the for abseiling, and passing through nar- turbulent in June and July. Those white-water children who can already swim can activities row spaces, while learning about how 112 TOWNS looking for a rafting, canyoning or get a taste of the joys of rafting and to ensure the protection of this special From upstream to downstream, the other white-water activities won’t be their very first rushes of adrenaline, environment at the same time. river Giffre crosses the following disappointed. The Giffre is narrow getting caught in the currents with eleven towns: and deep through the Tines Gorges, the team from Indiana Rafting. and then much wider downstream Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval (its source), in the Vallon Plain. There, the banks Samoëns, Verchaix, Morillon, La For the pros! and stony or sandy beaches are great 100% Raft is the ultimate “Rafting Rivière-Enverse, Châtillon-sur-Cluses, TOP TIP for playing games in the water and a Alpine Trip” to choose for a thrilling Taninges, Mieussy, Saint-Jeoire, refreshing swim. descent down the Giffre. On the THE “100% SMILEY” PACKAGE! , Vougy (confluence). programme: hop aboard a Raft If you want to try out rafting, canoraft (or airboat) and canyoning, wheth- Xpert, then try out a two-seater er you’re looking to slide, row, abseil or jump: this is the most enjoyable sporty canoraft, with a section down experience you can find, available from the Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval centre. the gorges for the more daring. The “survivalism” trend Orienteering with Gilles Leroy survival expert How did you come up with the getting lost in the forest, being taken should already have the right reflexes Rescue missions, rope techniques, idea of survivalism courses? by surprise by nightfall, having an to avoid putting yourself in danger. survival in the middle of nowhere... accident... I like to make people aware I then provide some new tips and put yourself in Bear Grylls’ shoes for “I’ve always lived in the mountains and of the dangers that can be avoided been a fan of outdoor sports. From tricks for surviving.” a course on survivalism! Survival ex- with the right training and prevention.” 2003 to 2011, I did some travelling to try pert Gilles Leroy will take you on an out water sports and mountain sports. What does a typical course Why is the Haut-Giffre a good exploration of the land and our own I tried to venture further and further place for this? abilities, for a half day, full day or look like? into the wilderness, with canyons, “The content of the courses depends “We’ve got everything we need: longer with camping. He’ll tell us all climbing routes, and I had to survive entirely on the participants; I am there glacial canyon, diverse landscapes, about this new trend, that he helps in unknown territory. I remember on forest down below and deep and adventurers discover all year round, a trip to Chili when we had to trust to bring my expertise and technical skills to the table, but they make their narrow valleys, so we can concoct who are ready and willing to leave our instincts to survive a storm. When a survival experience as if we were I came back to France, I was certified own decisions. It’s essential to be able their comfort zone. in the heart of Alaska. Everything with the ski patrol and a certified to feel danger coming and make the you need for an adventure in the lifeguard so I wanted to share the right decisions in the mountains! The great outdoors!” experience of exploring, the beauty courses are scheduled all year round. of the landscapes, in combination For a full day session for example, I with this notion of safety; first of all organise a sort of orienteering course, Gilles is also a canyoning guide - SURVIVALISM ADVENTURES with canyoning, my speciality, then to get from point A to point B, to more generally related to safety, with who offers a one-of-a-kind 44 escape a dangerous situation. For 45 my survivalism courses that I’ve been experience in France: canyoning by running for 6 years now.” a course with an overnight camping night (see p.42). Read about Gilles experience, participants will do the and the Hivernales du Haut-Giffre What exactly is survivalism? orienteering course, and also be (see p.13) “The people I took on canyoning trips expected to choose the right place started asking me questions like - and for their sleeping bag, come up with if we hurt ourselves, what happens? survival and advancement strategies, I wanted to show them how they etc. Between point A and point B, things could survive in the great outdoors. happen and if the wrong decisions Survivalism is all about leaving your are made over and over again, they comfort zone, learning to be at one could cause problems! Children from with nature, about the potential the age of 5 can participate with their dangers, and working on pushing parents for a half day course: they yourself past your limits; how to light a fire, how to find shelter, how to find enjoy collecting wood and building water, thanks to rescue missions and the shelter. The only condition: come orienteering scenarios. I created some to the course equipped as if you were educational scenarios, for example going on a hiking expedition. You

Watch a video To be tried without fail! BE | TO 5 ACTIVITIES YOU NEED TO TRY BEFORE LEAVING THE VALLEY!

PARAGLIDING YOONER 1.Even for children... Here, children 4.The Yooner is a modern version of the as young as 5 can try out this traditional ‘paret’ sledge. This hybrid activity, thanks to the two-seater contraption looks like a sledge, and introductory experience, especially is a fun activity in the winter. Come designed for children. Rodolphe, and race down the slopes with the instructor has the right approach family or friends. A perfect activity Companions and experience to take children for some quality time together after on this amazing adventure, just skiing, while staying on the slopes! on your adventure in the great like a dream! What if they were The night-time version with Jérôme equipped with skis for their very first Guillot, the ‘paret’ specialist of the experience in the skies? Rodolphe valley, is also worth a try (read p. 38). outdoors! also organises two-seater flights, to Save the date: Le Yoopa, March explore the skies in winter. 2021! Yooner, paret, snooc... come and (re)discover some of the ancient traditions as a family (from the age MUSHER WITH HANDISKI: SKIING of 8), for a day. In the morning, there THE SLED DOGS FOR2. EVERYONE IN are some introductory sessions on the slopes, to get ready for the Mushing for kids! Cindy, an experienced musher, will MORILLON “Challenge” in the afternoon, for the take the little ones from the age of 4 on an introductory LA GRANDE ODYSSÉE whole family. Awards for the best dog-sledding session, in direct contact with the animals and The ESF ski school in Morillon has ADVENTURES - COMPANIONS ON YOUR ADVENTURE IN THE GREAT OUTDOORS! IN THE GREAT ADVENTURE ON YOUR - COMPANIONS ADVENTURES performances at 4pm. TRIED WITHOUT FAIL! nature, along the snow-covered trails of Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval. SAVOIE MONT BLANC been offering “skiing activities for 46 FROM THE 9TH TO 20TH JANUARY 2021 all” for over ten years now. Several 47 Introduction as a family! The whole family can 55 international mushers and 300 high-performance instructors are qualified to teach and lead groups of handicapped people experience the joys of dog-sledding in Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval athletic dogs will depart from Morillon for this NEW MODES OF and the impressive Rouget Waterfall (known as “The challenging race, in a one-of-a-kind Alpine setting. on the slopes thanks to the seated Queen of the Alps”). On the programme: entertainment from Nordic lands, ski “machines” provided by the “Tatu 5.TRANSPORT... handi giffre” association: tandem ski ice sculpture, introduction to building igloos and Giffre Valley can be explored on and tandem flex, dual piloted, kart- A 2-day dog-sledding expedition! For the full a fun skiing race for duos. all sorts of electric contraptions. ski and uni-bob. experience, Ludovic, a professional musher, organises Segway, skateboard and e-Fatscoot a 2-day trek with Siberian huskies, in the highlands of (scooter with XXL tyres): all you need Morillon. This adventure is worthy of the expeditions of to spend your holiday roaming the the Great North, with a night in an igloo (or tent) and meal CLIMBING footpaths along the Giffre, around around a campfire. Lac Bleu in Morillon or on the 3.Spend a day with your head in mountainsides of the Grand Massif the clouds with a tree-climbing and for the more daring, accompanied HIKING WITH DONKEYS zip wire session up above Lac Bleu in by Julien Annequin who has just From a simple walk to a longer trip with overnight Morillon. A thrilling via ferrata section launched two new concepts called camping experience or at a mountain shelter, you can along a transparent walkway, and to “Gyro-apéro” and “apéro-trott”, choose the family-friendly outing that suits you with Les finish, a paragliding experience with which combines these activities Anes du Haut-Giffre. The perfect occasion to explore a breath-taking view of the Cirque (segway and scooter) with a tasting the footpaths and streams in an eco-friendly, fun way, in du Fer-à-Cheval: a truly sensational of some delicious local products of a magnificent setting with torrents, waterfalls, as well as package deal. the valley. the odd Alpine ibex, marmot, and of course the donkeys! Ice falls: climb along frozen waterfalls using ice picks and ice The winter version: "fat bike & grippers, accompanied by a guide. night", when the sun goes down. EXPLORATION ON HORSEBACK Once the slopes close for the night, At the heart of the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval, 6km after the Mountain Spirit takes adventurers village of Sixt, the horse-riding centre Hippoloisirs offers and their bikes with XXL tyres along rides in a horse-driven cart, as well as pony and horse the wide slopes and snow-covered rides. Jimmy and his horse-driven cart and Estelle and tracks, to explore Giffre Valley under her riding horses, will be delighted to take visitors out for the stars. a leisurely trip to “the ends of the earth”, to admire the beauty of the mountains and waterfalls. Top 10 activities for kids AT THE LAC BLEU, THE PLACE FOR FAMILIES

Just 500m from Morillon, the watersports centre offers a mountain lake, sandy beach, free swimming and all the leisure activities you could dream of. Defoul’park, stand-up paddle, kayaking, big air bag, aqua-golf, bouncy castles, horse-riding centre, treetop-climbing and zip wires over the water: this is THE favourite place for families in the valley. You can spend all day there!

A closer look at... ADVENTURES - TOP 10 FOR KIDS - TOP ADVENTURES

48 the Defoul'park 49 with Julien Annequin A fun obstacle course with I came up with the idea to offer an A place for the whole family? 50 obstacles adapted for young activity for the whole family to share. “Our idea is to provide a place for children from the age of 3, and It’s a concept that you can’t find families to spend time and have fun older family members, in the elsewhere.” together. At Defoul'park, we see forest and at the watersports a wide range of generations. Family centre at Lac Bleu in Morillon: What is the Defoul'park? members go head-to-head, even children with their grandparents. Défoul’park is without a doubt “It’s a fun obstacle course through the forest, in the shade; an obstacle Whether you are an adult or a child, the place to be for families in the course that requires great agility and does not give you an advantage! valley! We’ll tell you why, with balance, along 300m with games The families coming here are looking Julien Annequin, the creator of to take part in together and to work for a challenge to share together, this place and sports coach. on certain parts of the body. It’s not possible over a half-day. When simply a succession of structured we see the children and parents You opened the Defoul'park activities. We’ve tried to choose laughing together and giving each 6 years ago now, what was the activities that will help with balance other a high-five when they get over an obstacle, it makes us so happy!” idea initially? and proprioception, things we tend “Previously I was a ski instructor, and to lose due to inactivity. Children and when working with children I noticed parents can have fun trying to get that they were doing less and through the tunnels and over walls EVENT of tyres for example. The ramp with Explore Lac Live from the In the summer don’t miss the event "Y’a Le Feu less physical activity, even though Facebook/Defoulpark Bleu webcams the sporting potential of children grooves is the final activity on the au Lac": concerts, show and fireworks display, for hadn’t changed. As a sports coach, obstacle course, a bit like the ultimate a superb evening on the shores of Lac Bleu, the this made me want to get things challenge. Here, you manage your watersports centre in Morillon. moving, in every way. My wife and exertion depending on the activity, and you go at your own pace.” ‘Zen’ experiences in Giffre Valley

YOGA WITH JULIA BARNES IN MORILLON Le Badney 1881 chalet, a renovated 19th century farm, is a place where you can get back to basics and explore what is really important in life, at an easy-going pace. Julia Barnes organises yoga sessions here, for all, and all year round.

MEDITATIVE EXPERIENCES IN SIXT-FER-À-CHEVAL Mindfulness with your feet in the snow? That’s what coach Sally-Anne offers with this 3-day mindfulness experience. On the programme: introduction to meditation, Qi Gong, skiing or snowboarding with a high-mountain guide, Chinese massage, spa... Everything you need for a revitalising getaway, staying with the coach, in her authentic and renovated Alpine farm in Sixt, dating from 1830: La Ciseraie. You can do yoga AFGHAN WALKING IN VERCHAIX Afghan walking (or walking yoga) is a form of active meditation, combining relaxation and managing your endurance. Using a method of controlled anywhere breathing, Claire, mountain guide and physical education techniques practitioner (Nature Quintessence), teaches walkers to keep the same pace, Julia Barnes to avoid a racing heartbeat, to be able to go further and improve endurance, “ZEN” IN THE MOUNTAINS without being out of breath at the end. All of this while admiring a breath- 51 taking view from the Joux Plane mountain pass, in Verchaix. Love was what brought Julia to Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval, and she chose to devote her time here to her passion for yoga. She shares this way of YOGA AT THE HEART OF THE CIRQUE DU FER-À- life with the other yoga enthusiasts in the valley all year round, in CHEVAL a naturally relaxing setting and places that provide just the right vibes: Coming to the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval is a call for relaxation. It is also a chalet, mountainside, Alpine pastures, at candlelight or in the snow. the perfect venue for open-air wellness activities, and the yoga festival is organised here every year at the end of August. The mantra for the 3 days: Tell us about yourself and how Do you offer a yoga and hiking opening up your hips and on your take the time to breathe, relax, unwind, spend some quality time, while excursion at the Sixt-Fer-à- balance.” getting the very most out of this superb natural area. Julia Barnes, Simon you arrived here in the valley. Park and the other yoga teachers of the valley will be there. “I’m Scottish and love brought me Cheval Festival? And in the winter you also here 11 years ago, after spending “Yes, I started the yoga and hiking initiative last year, along with Agnieszka, take us on a showshoe hiking several years in the United States and a mountain guide in the valley. I love to expedition combined with then in Lyon where I opened a yoga share my two passions for hiking and studio. I’m now a yoga teacher here in yoga? yoga, with people from the local area “In the winter, the silence and peace- Giffre Valley. I lead yoga vinyasa, pre and further afield. During the festival, and post-natal yoga sessions all year and-quiet at the Cirque is magical, I help the tourist office find yoga it’s such a peaceful place. We don’t round in Morillon, Châtillon and Sixt- teachers every year and to organise do yoga on a mat here, we sit and Fer-à-Cheval.” the programme for yoga sessions.” IN THE WINTER, "ZEN ALTITUDE" ON THE meditate, to work on our breathing, or stand and work on our balance. SLOPES Do you combine yoga and the Do you also offer the 5 days of wellness workshops: massages, yoga, meditation, cycling... combination of yoga and Doing yoga in the snow is a fabulous mountains? the perfect setting for a revitalising breath of fresh air, with a breath- climbing? experience! You can do yoga with “The two come together very nat- me anywhere!” taking view from an altitude of 2,448m (Grands Vans summit). “Yes, François Coffy and I came up urally. I find nature revitalising and with the idea. He’s a former mem- inspiring; yoga is an opportunity to ber of the French national team and get back to basics - to focus on na- a climbing instructor working here www.yogajulia.com IN THE SUMMER, YOGA IN THE GREAT OUT- ture, our breathing, and the present in Sixt. He used to come to my yoga DOORS AT THE LAC BLEU (MORILLON) moment. When I go hiking, I like to sessions. Every summer, we now cre- stop and do some yoga along the ate these sessions together. The idea way. Fer-à-Cheval is a magical and is to work on your presence, aware- thrilling place.” ness of your body and movements, "The flying Nomad" Where to meditate? THE 4 BEST MEDITATING SPOTS ACCORDING TO brings the DAVID CASARTELLI Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval to life Simon Park New-York, Barcelona, Munich, Paris, Luxembourg, Glasgow… and Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval: Simon Park travels the globe teaching the concept of “liquid flow” yoga. He decided to take the yogi world on a relaxing retreat right here at the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval. The shores of Lac d’Anterne Dubbed as “one of the most influential and gifted Yoga teachers of the next generation” by Yoga Journal, Simon Park has become an ambassador of this peaceful valley in the space of just a few years. The inspiring natu- ral environment and the village of Sixt-Fer-à- Tell us about yourself Simon of events at the Grand Massif Cheval make this a Park. Montagnes du Giffre Tourist Office. cultural and community “ZEN” IN THE MOUNTAINS “I am a yoga teacher, originally I needed wide open spaces to 52 from Philadelphia in the United organise my retreats. This place is experience which is very 53 States. Thanks to the influence perfect: doing yoga surrounded by important in the practice Sales Valley from my yogi masters, Shiva Rea, mountains and majestic waterfalls, Richard Freeman, Maty Ezraty, Joan in one of the most untouched natural of yoga. White and Dharma Mittra, I created environments in Western Europe.” the brand "liquid flow yoga": it’s Do you organise yoga retreats a blend of classic and modern yoga, The Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval is and training sessions in Sixt- a therapeutic experience for the one of your favourite spots to Fer-à-Cheval? body and mind. I created a yoga do yoga, why is that? “At the beginning of September programme for Princeton University. “This natural place is ideal for 2019, I organised a one-week The earth is my home.” awakening the body and mind. And retreat with Calvin Corzine "Dynamic I’ve been doing yoga all over Europe Flow and Functional Movement Do the mountains inspire you? and the United States. Here, the Training/Retreat": a blend of styles “I am inspired by nature. I moved to forests and waterfalls are the perfect including dynamic vinyasa, functional Colorado and what I enjoy the most reflection of my art, known as “liquid movement, therapeutic movement, is doing yoga on the banks of rivers prayanama, meditation, and yoga and up in the mountains: the perfect flow”. The natural environment here Pointe sans Bêt opposite the Pic de Tenneverge Nidra. The participants and teachers environment to let go, benefit from is surprising, with the waterfalls, the pure mountain air and the vibes crystal-clear rivers, magical forests, really enjoyed this retreat. I also offer a of these places.” superb birds and marmots! Sixt- 300-hour teacher training course here Fer-à-Cheval is a charming Alpine in Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval. Session 1 from Every year, you are the star village with authentic restaurants the 30th May to 13th June, Session 2 from the 13th to 27th June. Australia, of the Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval yoga and beautiful chalets.” New-Zealand, Turkey, Africa, Sweden, festival, how did you end up Hawaii, Fiji and Canada: I bring people here? here from all over the world!” “A friend of mine wanted to come here for a retreat. I came 5 years ago. Then I met Laurent Vriez, www.liquidflowyoga.com operational manager, in charge Pointe de Verreu ©photos David Casartelli AGE IT HER

SECTION TITLE of Morillon Architectural heritagesites with Marie dow framesmade frombush-hammered mortar, withquoins anddoorwin- - a stone-built ground floor laid in lime uted. Theyaremadeupof: months. The spaces are evenly distrib- the winterseasonlastingfrom 6to8 due to the weather conditions, with required aspecifickindoforganisation tain farmingpracticesofthattime, which architecture wasadaptedtothemoun cellars orfodderintheirhaybarns.The ly, theirfoodreserveswerestoredinthe dents and animals lived there, separate- until theendof19thcentury. Resi houses, builtfromthe17thcenturyup starting withthebeautifultraditional many heritagetreasurestodiscover, in thehighGiffre Valley, withso The villageofMorillonisnestled − Claude Perret Follow - - (read p.57) curious building, thegranary... Close tothehouse isanotherrather “ancelles” (longwoodentiles). past thebuildingwascovered with slate, tilesorpaintedsheeting.Inthe - theroofingsometimes made from vegetables orfodder. south-west façades,usedfor drying carved balusters,decoratingthewest- - outdoorgallerieswithbeautifully could bestored. eight monthsoffodderfortheanimals tive andsymbolicairvents,wheresixto - upstairs,verticalplankswithdecora tinguishing featuresinsidethedwelling. and therewereseveralcharming,dis Residents andanimalslivedseparately local limestone, or dressedtufastone. theguide... - - Les Frahans The expertiseof dialect), thatwecantraceback to and carpentersina'Mourmé’ bouscolins” (builders, stone masons of the“kègnes,frahansand This heritagesite is amasterpiece torrent. the devastatingfloodsof the Verney Spirit, to beg for divine mercy against 15th centuryBrotherhoodoftheHoly of SaintPhilomène. Itislinked tothe painted in ‘trompe l’oeil’ and a statue It housesaNeo-classicalaltarpiece, century, isdevotedtoSaintPhilomène. Chapel inVerney, builtinthe19th The Notre-DamedeToutes Grâces throughout GiffreValley. the religious heritage sites of stonemasons.Theybuilt Frahans isabrotherhood buildings andprojects.Les and thecreationofimpressive has arichhistoryinconstruction masons, "Les Frahans", Morillon Land ofbuildersandstone saint canbefoundhere. Saint Symphorien, andarelicofthe it wasputundertheprotection of the beginningof19thcentury, to Châtelardinthe18thcentury!At 17th centuryinCôtes,thenbrought Dames desCarmeswasbuiltinthe Châtelard chapel,devotedtoNotre- Baroque-style altarpieceandapieta. the 16thcentury. Inside isanAlpine Michel andSaint-Claude, wasbuiltin Douleurs, laCompassion,Saint- protection ofNotre-DamedesSept Miaux chapel,placedunderthe François ofSales. statues ofSaintChristopheand Neo-Gothic choir, there are alder with a tufa stone clock tower. Inthe century onthe'Crêt deMorellons’, Saint Christophe, builtinthe15th Morillon isthe church devotedto In the centre of the village of In thecentreofvillage

honourable professionals... marked theendofroadforthese the firstworldwarfrom1914to1918 cy fund.Thearrivalofconcreteand organised and to create an emergen- hood, toensuretheirtradewasbetter in 1835,tocreatetheirownbrother valley, whotheywouldthenpartfrom 17th century, alongwithothersofthe trate, Castor andClaudeinthe Crowned), Saint Symphorien, Nicos Couronnés (BrotherhoodoftheFour founded theConfrériedesQuatre bol of devotion and sharing. They congregation. Thiswasastrongsym would thenbesharedwiththewhole mas Day, onSaintStephen’s Day, that ed duringmassthedayafterChrist would offera15kg loafofbread,bless Christmas withtheirfamilies,they When theycamebacktospend a secret. and theycouldkeep theirexpertise understand them on the worksites ‘mourmé’ sothatnobodyelsewould and inventedtheirowndialect,the until Christmas in small groups, the world.TheyleftfromEaster constructions across Europeand were involvedinmanyothergreat great canalsofFrance, andthey Ferney, Napoleon the First the construction ofhischâteauin Voltaire entrusted them with the (we weren’t French atthattime!). fortifications oftheFrenchkingdom and 18thcenturies,tobuildthe called uponbyVauban inthe17th renowned professionalsandwere buildings etc.inSavoie. Theywere They builtchurches,bridges,public thirteen practicedthesetrades! out ofthreemenovertheage especially in Morillon. In 1726, two of theminthehighGiffre Valley, the 15thcentury. Thereweremany information, go totheTourist Office. of Morillon,comeonaguided tour To findoutmoreaboutthe history with aheritageguide. Formore - - - - - 55 HERITAGE Mysteries in Châtillon-sur-Cluses! The iconic village of Châtillon-sur-Cluses is at the entrance to Giffre Valley, it is well- known for its religious heritage sites and there are some superb treasures to see there: a church and its ancient 900-year-old frescoes that were discovered in 2006, Wood is the heart and a château with the very chapel that witnessed the wedding of Peter, Count of Savoie, known as little Charlemagne, to Angès de in 1223... and soul of the valley DID YOU KNOW? There are still some secrets well hidden inside the grounds of the château. Archaeological excavations were started here in June 2019... THE GRANARIES

“Close to the house is another rather curious building, the granary. It is completely enclosed and built from dovetail-mounted spruce logs. This was where the food reserves, household linen, notarial deeds, important The chapels paperwork, money and jewellery were kept. This “safe” housed all the wealth of the house, and protected it from fires and predators”, explains There are 22 chapels in Giffre Valley, here are some that can be visited, accompanied Marie-Claude Perret, heritage guide. by Heritage Guides. These treasures of the architectural heritage of the mountains hold many secrets and are still a mystery today. The granaries of the valley have HERITAGE resisted through the centuries and are still standing today. We can see them HERITAGE 56 when we cross through the villages of Giffre Valley, just like the ten standing 57 along the road that leads in to Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval. What is so special about the architecture? These mini chalets were built from logs, without using nails or screws, and were built a bit like Lego constructions. Today, many of them are taken apart and then reassembled in gardens, or sometimes transformed into guesthouses.

RAISED FLOWER BEDS

Patrick Bucz is a cabinetmaker by trade and has a passion for wood, to which he devotes his life today. Since 1994, he has been making raised flower beds. His initial idea was to create a useful and characteristic souvenir from Giffre Valley, in his workshop just at the entrance to Morillon. He is one of the craftspeople bearing the “Operation Grand Massif” label. The official appellation of origin bearing the same name is a testament to this craftsman’s very goal, to bring visitors and local producers together and to share these creations. The objective of the label is to give visitors an authentic experience, made all the more so thanks to the key players from the local area. The Origine Grand Massif association is driven by passion for the area, and the desire to safeguard the values of the territory. They give local producers the possibility to obtain this label, thus proving the quality of their products. Find out more

Find out more A mountain of cheeses TO LAY ON A PLATTER OR PUT IN YOUR BACKPACK 3 creamy places to go The Bergerie du Lochet (Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval) Come and taste the ‘tomme’ cheeses and yoghurts made from ‘Thônes et Marthod’ sheep milk (a 100% Savoyard race), or why not take some home with you. At this authentic sheep farm, come and THE TASTE OF meet Karine Richard, the passionate producer who came up with her very own cheese, named after the iconic peak of the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval: the Tenneverge.

THE VALLEY Gaec Les Places – Etable OF THE VALLEY THE TASTE

58 Boisier 59 (La Rivière-Enverse) THE SOUP OF THE VAL- On this family-run farm there are 50 milking cows and 70 goats, but LEY, TO BE SAVOURED... Recipe for you won’t only find cow and goat’s WITH A FORK! milk cheese there, there’s also the absolute authenticity of the place. This is THE culinary speciality of ‘châtrée’ soup Farm ‘tomme’ cheeses, goat’s Morillon, with a well-kept secret. cheese ‘tommes’, ‘chevrotin’ goat’s Just like the fondue dish, this one cheese and butter, that the Boisier was also created with the goal of family works 365 days a year to avoiding waste and eating well. Ingredients: produce. Because in the past, we didn’t throw 500g of onions 1 pinch of pepper anything out, everything was used! 25cl of dry white wine 30g of butter ‘Châtrée’ soup is a tasty dish that 2l of water 50g of grated ‘comté’ cheese was once known as the ‘dish of the 750g of ‘tomme’ cheese from Savoie 1 tablespoon of groundnut oil La Ferme des Tines poor’. It is served to celebrate the 1 baguette (Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval) Saint-Christophe (21st August) and is Yann, Jérôme and Gaëlle produce a delicious blend of toasted or stale cheese and deli meats in the val- bread, local ‘tomme’ cheese and 1. Prepare the onion soup. Then filter the onions. In a large soup tureen, alternate ley and Alpine pastures. Each ani- onion soup. The infamous onions layers of bread and ‘tomme’ cheese. Then cover them with the onion soup. Bake in mal (cows, goats, pigs) is fed only are baked for a long time in the the oven for 1 hour/1 hour 30 minutes. grass or hay produced on the farm. oven, and this legacy is passed on Throughout the summer, they can be from generation to generation. Then 2. ‘Châtrez’ the soup! Take the soup out of the oven once it is golden brown and comes the step known as ‘châtre’ seen up on the Salvadon pastures has dried. This stage is known as ‘châtrer’ in French, meaning 'to cut’. Then add the (1,800m), 2.5 hour’s walk from Sixt- in French, meaning ‘to cut’, then a ‘comté’ cheese and butter on the top, before putting it back in the very hot oven to knob of butter is added to the soup Fer-à-Cheval, to see how what life is grill the cheese! Find out more! and it is left to bake. This dish is best like on the pastures and taste the lo- served with deli meats and wine, cal products: goat’s cheese ‘tomme’, from Savoie of course! Come to one Thanks to Alexandre Beignon, former chef of the ‘Morillon’ fresh goat’s cheese, raclette, Alpine of the restaurants in the Giffre Valley pasture cheeses, etc. Make sure you to taste it; ‘châtrée’ soup has never taste the farm ‘tomme’ of Sixt! left the valley, and lovers of great food enjoy coming here to try it. A closer look at... Sixt organic bread, Gathering naturally soft at heart plants Pascal used to be a sales rep in the toys industry and Marie a pharmaceutical sales rep, for fifteen of the mountains with years or so. Together, they ran a grocery store Moving to Sixt and making in Ardèche for 8 years. Then they decided to go organic bread was a real return for a career change: become ORGANIC bakers. Pauline Pretet Their ethos was to create good, top-quality in to the roots. For us, it’s everything they did, and continue what they important to work with passion, had started on this new path. So, to bring their Pauline is a mountain guide, What plants can we find in the objective closer, they followed a vocational to share the experience and offering a medicinal and botanical Giffre Mountains? baccalaureat course at the Ecole Internationale explain how we work, with experience of the mountains. What “Peppermint for example, which is de Boulangerie (International Bakery School) makes her tick? Showing people used to make digestive herbal teas. how to feel good in this living near Sisteron. That was when they realised people always at the centre of We can also find wild baby spinach natural environment. In the summer, that the mountains were where they wanted (white goosefoot) that can be fried in to be! They headed to Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval and in the process. she takes nature lovers out in the oil and served as a snack; this plant summer 2015 they set up their laboratory. They explains Pascal mountains, along a “wellness” started producing organic bread and sold it at itinerary that is accessible to all, to is often found around the mountain chalets. You can make a sweet pan- the local markets and in the surrounding area. Bio Pain make organic bread using explore the plants and their benefits. 2019, a new team! Pascal was joined by Sophie Participants will be able to take the cake or omelette using spruce tree and Morgan, bakers experienced in sourdough natural yeast and local products; relaxing effects of the Giffre Valley buds; I always have a cooking stove and organic bread. seasonal bread, gluten-free bread, mountains back home with them, handy! Everyone knows that!” by making their own relaxing and OF THE VALLEY THE TASTE biscuits and sourdough brioche. beneficial herbal teas, using 100% How did you become passion- 60 natural invigorating ingredients. We 61 met with her... ate about mountain plants? “Gathering plants is an ancient prac- WHERE CAN WE BUY tice in mountainous territory. They What does a typical outing look BIOPAIN? are very useful for culinary purposes like? or for medical treatment when you Biopain sales outlets (Place de la Gare, “The walk is not particularly sporty, are in the mountains!” Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval) it’s not a hiking expedition with steep • Fournil: Monday, Tuesday and Friday climbs. It’s a trail through the forest and 5pm to 7pm, fresh from the oven! across pastures, to explore the sheer • Markets: Boëge (Tuesday), Samoëns diversity of plants found in our moun- (Wednesday), Chamonix (Saturday) tains. I choose the itinerary in accord- www.trekycimes.com • Restaurants of the Grand Massif ance with the weather conditions, but Montagnes du Giffre: 8M des Monts we always go into the valley, between (Samoëns), Le Rouet (Sixt-Fer-à-Chev- Samoens and Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval. On al), La Croix de Savoie (Les Carroz), La a half-day or full-day walk, we will pick Table de Finine (Samoëns) plants along the way and then taste • Restaurants in the surrounding area: some herbal teas made during the out- Les Herbes Folles (Viuz-en-Sallaz), ing and shared by the whole group.” Brasserie l’Escargot (Thyez) • Organic food stores: Sain’Bio’Z (Moril- lon), Croq’Nature (Cluses), Au Nid Na- Pauline has chosen to set up shop at the foot of the greatest trails, ture (Samoëns), Santoline (Taninges et Viuz-en-Sallaz), l’Epicerie Bio de la and she takes visitors on a discovery of the treasures of Mother Na- Vallée Verte (Boëge), La Bio des Vori- ture in the Giffre Mountains. She offers wellness hiking expeditions, ons (Bonne), La Vie Claire (), canyoning as a family, via ferrata, rock climbing and other guided l’Epicerie (Les Praz de Chamonix) outings in summer or winter (showshoeing). And when Pauline isn’t in Giffre Valley, she jets off to the mountains of Nepal. 5 VILLAGES

MORILLON Village and resort Morillon was actually created by a landslide at the end of the 16th century, AND THEIR giving this area the name ‘crêt de morellon’, which then led to the name of the village. Morillon still boasts the architectural authenticity of the past, as well as a popular ski resort full of activities and linked to one of the biggest ski areas in France. In the village of Morillon, there is a wide range of activities to do at Lac Bleu. And families love to head up to the Morillon 1100 Les Esserts ski resort, and ski down the slopes through the fir trees. AND THEIR CHARM 5 VILLAGES 62CHARM What are the locals called? Morillonnais 63 If you want to find out more, come and follow the Savoie Mont Blanc heritage guide: Marie-Claude Perret SIXT-FER-À-CHEVAL The birthplace of mountaineering LA RIVIÈRE-ENVERSE At the heart of the biggest nature reserve in Haute-Savoie, Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval is the birthplace of mountaineering. It was right here in 1770, that the first ever high- An authentic land mountain climb in the Alps took place: Mont Buet, also known as Mont-Blanc des Here, tradition is the keyword. The traditional Haute-Savoie houses, the many Dames. The village is named after the mountain ‘cirque’ in the shape of a horseshoe oratories, the local people, Nicodex Chapel, the 2 farms (GAEC Les Places (fer-à-cheval in French). Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval and its 24 hamlets is not a place you and GAEC Clatvan), the caves (replica of Lourdes caves), the Baroque church simply pass through, it is a place to stay. The preserved abbatial village plunges with white iron clock tower built by architect from Faucigny, Pierre Cheneval visitors into an atmosphere where you feel like you’re at ‘the ends of the earth’, and based on clover-shaped plans... Come and take a stroll around La Riv- thanks to the locals, known as the ‘Sizerets’ and the classified natural environment. ière-Enverse, whose name was adapted in 1801 from ‘la Rivière-en-Verse’, A date for the diaries - Fête de la Terre (20/08/2020): all generations of 'Sizerets’ explore the village and meet the 462 locals, most of whom are artists and come together in the clothes of their ancestors, to pay tribute to them on this craftspeople (sculptors, potters, painters, etc.) day of celebration. What are the locals called? Riverots If you want to find out more, come and follow the Savoie Mont Blanc If you want to find out more, heritage guides: come and follow the Savoie Mont Blanc heritage guide: Juliette Chatel Françoise Derouet Moccand and Suzanne Ducroz CHÂTILLON-SUR-CLUSES VERCHAIX Entrance to Giffre Valley A quiet little village Just like all the other ‘Châtillon’ in France, Châtillon-sur-Cluses owes its name Here, the ‘lhottis’ are proud of their hometown! Verchaix is a small to the castle which was the Sires of Faucigny’s favourite place to stay. It is village set on two levels and separated from Morillon by the Giffre, a remarkable place that is currently undergoing renovation work. There is a river that takes its source from the heart of the Cirque du Fer-à- also a church that houses some beautiful relics. The village is spread across Cheval. Verchaix boasts an exceptional nordic skiing area, the Joux two valleys. In the north it constitutes the natural entrance to Giffre Valley, Plane mountain pass (1,770m) and the Loex Plateau where you can the resorts and ski area. catch a glimpse of the iconic bird of the mountains, the black grouse. What are the locals called? Cassandrins If you want to find out more, If you want to find out more, come and follow the Savoie Mont Blanc heritage guide: Aurélie Veisy come and follow the Savoie Mont Blanc heritage guide: Juliette Chatel À-CHEVAL SIXT A DAY IN

SECTION TITLE 9:30am Tenneverge peak. have agreatviewofthewaterfallsand Anne andJean-Pierre. Fromhereyou Le Pelly campsiteforacupofcoffeewith educational expedition, you muststopby fauna andflora.Beforesettingoffonthis is a voyage in itself, to discover the local ‘Bout dumonde’ (endsoftheearth)walk Head to the Cirque du Fer-à-Cheval. The 8am highlands! the chamoisand Alpineibexupinthe and we could even catch a glimpse of waterfalls onthewaythere andback, our loopbeforemidday... We passby towards the‘FonddelaCombe’, tofinish to theVogealle... Asforus,wecarryon taking onthePas duBoret,toclimbup ideal viewpoint for observing the hikers Take abreakatthePrazonsnackbar, the -FER- and muchmore. des alpages’, some cheesyspecialities some local delights, including a ‘salade panoramic outdoorseatingarea,totaste and totherestaurant‘leRouet’ with Back tothevillageofSixt-Fer-à-Cheval, 12pm So refreshing! a greatexperience toshareasafamily! white-water rafting downtheriverGiffre... walk thismorning, sowetryourhandat We stillhavelotsofenergy left afterour 3pm historical monument! the Haute-Savoielocalcouncilinsidethis one ofthemanyexhibitionsorganisedby shelter from the heat at Sixt Abbey, to see It’s startingtogethotinthevalley. We 2pm Marthod’. local raceofsheep, the‘Thôneset cheeses andyoghurtsfrom this unique Lochet sheep farm to stock upon local On thewayback,stopbyLa Bergeriedu 7pm the localvillageassociations. try some of the tasty dishes on offer from Nuna Barontheothersideofroad,or option istoorderatakeaway pizzafrom this event,bringyourownpicnic.Another that suitsthewholefamily!To reallyenjoy an eclecticprogramme, heldatatime village... averypopularmusicaleventwith for ‘Music’O Jardin’ inthecentreof Just like everyWednesday, it’s time 6pm Find outmore! Tous Tous personnalisés sont et www.normapict.com VOS OBJETS 01 8424 05 68 www.kisdis.com vos espaces/produits. pour dynamiseretvaloriser avec nosécrans interactifs autrement ! Communiquez TEXTILES 01 34258323 chez

tours decouMulti-usages, S

gourdes en verre, etc,... gourdes enverre, U casquettes, tee shirts, casquettes, teeshirts,

V R

O

N

U

O

S

T

T

R

R

E

O

B

U

O

V

U

E

T R

DISPONIBLES ÉGALEMENT ÉCRANS TACTILES

I

E

Q

Z

U

E 65 SECTION TITLE Haut-Giffre to find out more CONTACT practical info THE TOURIST OFFICES Morillon: +33 (0)4 50 90 15 76 [email protected] Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval: +33 (0)4 50 34 49 36 [email protected]

THE TOURIST OFFICES ON THE WEBSITE MORILLON.FR

My holiday in WINTER in SUMMER

Download the practical guide PRACTICAL INFO PRACTICAL INFO PRACTICAL

66 67 THE TOURIST OFFICES ON SOCIAL NETWORKS

BY CAR Coming from Paris: A6 Paris – Mâcon, then A40 Mâcon – Cluses. Paris - Morillon is 629km and takes around 6 hours. Coming from Lyon: A43 Lyon – Annecy, then A41 and A40 towards Cha- monix. Lyon - Morillon is 197km and takes around 2 hours. Coming from the south: in Valence, follow signs for Grenoble, Chambéry then Annecy. A41 and A40 towards Chamonix. Nice - Morillon is 597km morillon.tourisme morillon_tourisme and takes around 6 hours. Coming from the east of France: from Alsace or Franche Comté, the route via Switzerland is an interesting one. Strasbourg – Morillon is 455km and takes around 4.5 hours. From Cluses to Morillon or Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval: follow the signs for Samoëns. After Châtillon mountain pass, you’ll start to see signs for Mo- MORILLON rillon or Sixt-Fer-à-Cheval. It takes around 15 minutes after leaving the motorway. sixtferacheval sixtferacheval_officiel

BY TRAIN BY PLANE For all the train times and availabilities: Airports near Morillon Grand Massif. www.oui.sncf.fr Geneva Cointrin airport (Switzerland, make sure you have a passport or MORILLON From Cluses train station there are coaches available. identity card), 60 km away. For French arrivals at Geneva airport: call OFFICE DE TOURISME These coaches do not go to Morillon 1100 Les Esserts. 00.41.22.798.20.00. GRAND MASSIF - MONTAGNES DU GIFFRE If you arrive during the cable car opening hours, you French airports with flights to Geneva: can use this service. Bordeaux, Clermont-Ferrand, Nice, Paris, Toulouse. Chambery airport, 100km away. Lyon-Saint-Exupéry international airport, 180km away. ©David Casartelli ORIGINE GRAND MASSIF Culture, Artisanat, Agriculture, Gastronomie

LE GRAND MASSIF EST UN TERRITOIRE MADE IN DE TALENTS QUE GRAND NOUS SOMMES MASSIF Culture FIERS DE PARTAGER Cottage industry AVEC VOUS. Agriculture Gastronomy

The Grand Massif is home to many talents which we are proud to share with you.

Retrouvez tous nos partenaires sur grand-massif.com