Parrot Time
The Thinking of Speaking Issue #11 September / October 2014
Special CCoommiinngg HHoommee ttoo FFaarrooeessee The Why and How of Faroe Learning a Small Language Islands Issue FFaarrooeess:: RReevviissiitteedd Excerpt from the 1875 book "An American in Iceland "
DDaanniisshh aanndd FFaarrooeessee:: AA BBiiooggrraapphhyy Two languages fight it out in Faroese history and daily life.
TThhee FFaarrooeessee FFeessttiivvaall SSuummmmeerr Ólavsøka and the G! Festival
TThhee GGrriinndd:: WWhhyy tthhee FFaarrooeessee HHuunntt WWhhaalleess A look at the controversial grindadráp LLooookk bbeeyyoonndd wwhhaatt yyoouu kknnooww
Parrot Time is your connection to languages, linguistics and culture from the Parleremo community. Expand your understanding. Never miss an issue. Contents Parrot Time
Parrot Time is a magazine covering language, linguistics Features and culture of the world around us. 6 Coming Home to Faroese It is published by Scriveremo Why learn the language of a remote archipelago? Miranda Publishing, a division of Parleremo, the language learning Metheny explains why she learned Faroese and how it added community. immeasurable richness to her summer on the islands – and her life. Join Parleremo today. Learn a language, make friends, have fun. 1 6 Danish and Faroese: A Biography The primary language of a country is not always easily decided upon; sometimes, two languages compete for dominance. In the Faroe Islands, historically under Danish rule, the languages of Danish and Faroese have been been in this situation for centuries. Editor: Erik Zidowecki Email: [email protected] 38 Revisited The Faroe Islands Published by Scriveremo Publish- The is a reprint of a chapter from "An American in Iceland", ing, a division of Parleremo. when the author visted Iceland, the Faroe Islands, the Orkney This issue is available online from Islands, and the Shetland Islands in 1874. http://www.parrottime.com The editor reserves the right to edit all material submitted. Views expressed in Parrot Time are not 52 The Grind: Why the Faroese Hunt Whales necessarily the official views of Whale hunting, called grindadráp, is an important part of the Parleremo. All rights of reproduc- lifestyle of the Faroe Islands. For some, it is also very tion, translation and adaptation re- controversial. We take a look at the discussion from the served for all countries, except perspective of two Faroe Islanders. where noted otherwise. All copy- right material posted in the public- ation retains all its rights from the original owner. Parrot Time, Par- leremo, officers and administra- tion accept no responsibility collectively or individually for the Departments service of agencies or persons ad- vertised or announced in the pages of this publication.
05 Letter From The Editor
20 At the Cinema Ludo
22 Basic Guide to Faroese
26 Celebrations The Faroese Festival Summer
46 Word on the Streets Famous Faroe Islanders Cover: The village of Norðragøta is a fine example of the typical Faroese vil lage, situated on a narrow shelfofal 49 Where Are You? most flat land between the mountains and the sea. The sea; the beach and the harbour; the turf roofed church 58 The Scottish Princess and houses old and new; the infield; the outfield; the cliffs; the mountain top fog; the sky — are all stacked like 60 Faroese Ballads (Kvæði) layers of coloured sand in a jar.
Parrot Time | Issue #11 | September/October2014 3 Learnalanguage, Makefriends, Havefun!
PPaarrlleerreemmoo wwwwww..ppaarrlleerreemmoo..oorrgg Letter From The Editor World Ambassadors
One of the main reasons for learning another language is to explore another country and culture. Language is your passport to the world. People who learn a language and travel to another country (or travel to another country and learn the language there) have a chance to become something more: world ambassadors.
These individuals have the unique opportunity to expand our world by sharing their experiences with us, and they have been doing it for thousands ofyears, with so much ofour knowledge of earlier civilizations recorded by them in the form of travelogues.
One of these world ambassadors is Miranda Metheny, who wrote an article for this magazine about her recent experience living in the Faroe Islands.O Now, what I know ofthe Faroe Islands could fill a glass ofwater without first removing the water. I figured many other people might be similarly knowledge challenged, so I proposed to her that we do a special issue ofthe magazine based around the Faroe Islands, and she kindly agreed. The result of that is what you are currently holding in your virtual hands.
The Faroe Islands is an autonomous country comprised of 18 closely spaced islands. These islands, which can be found about halfway between Iceland and Norway, are currently under the control of the Kingdom of Denmark although the inhabitants, around 50,000 people, have made some pushes towards independence. The Faroe Islands cover an area of around 1,399 square kilometres (540 sq. mi). Although they are surrounded by the open ocean, the islands have no major lakes or rivers.
The name for the islands comes from an old map from 1280, where they are labelled “farei”. This is most likely based on the Old Norse fár, meaning “livestock”, and so they became known as fær-øer, or “sheep islands”. The 18 main islands are: Borðoy, Eysturoy, Fugloy, Hestur, Kalsoy, Koltur, Kunoy, Lítla Dímun, Mykines, Nólsoy, Sandoy, Skúvoy, Stóra Dímun, Streymoy, Suðuroy, Svínoy, Vágar, and Viðoy. Tórshavn is the capital and largest city ofthe Faroe Islands, located in the southern part of the largest island, Streymoy. The smallest island, Lítla Dímun, is the only one which is uninhabited.
Icelandic sagas tell us that the Norse had colonized the Faroe Islands before the first Millennium, with some historical superstars like Leif Erikson spending time there. The islands became part ofthe Kingdom ofNorway in 1035 and were under its control until 1380, at which time they became part of the dual monarchy Denmark–Norway.
For centuries, Danish was the main language ofthe islands, spoken in church, school, and business; Faroese was the secondary language, spoken in the homes and fields. This ended with the passing ofthe Act ofFaroese Home Rule in 1948, which among other things named Faroese the official language while Danish was relegated to secondary language status. The Faroese flag was also recognized by Danish authorities. When Denmark joined the EU in 1973, the Faroe Islands refused to join to preserve their fishing rights, as fishing had become their major industry.
Those are the basics. Now you can properly begin exploring the Faroes with us! Erik Zidowecki ERIK ZIDOWECKI EDITOR IN CHIEF
Parrot Time | Issue #11 | September/October2014 5 CCoommiinngg HHoommee ttoo FFaarrooeessee
by Miranda Metheny ince I first became interested in learning the Faroese language, I’ve heard a lot oftwo questions from friends and family: “Why?” and “How?” It was bad enough with Norwe gian. They used to laugh and say, “Wow, that’s useful! Now you can talk to a whole five million people, in one country, who already speak English!” They’ve stopped laughing, and now they’re just confused. Faroese, with its 65,000 speakers mostly gathered in a remote ar chipelago and a small district of Copenhagen, makes Norwegian look dead useful in comparison. But that’s not why I learned Faroese. I don’t deceive myself that Faroese is going to unlock job op portunities for me, or help me to travel wide swaths ofthe globe. I’m The Why and not going around recommending it to any friends. But that doesn’t mean it’s been a waste oftime – far How ofLearninga from it. Faroese has enriched my life, and I can’t ask for more than that. Choosing any language has to Small Language come down to personal motivation. It all depends on what you’re look ing for. When I first heard Faroese, I liked the sound ofit. I was thrilled by its echoes to the older form of Norwegian, intrigued by the chanted melodies of the ring dance, amused by the vocalic offglides and consonant clusters. Yes, it started out as a purely linguistic love af fair. I wouldn’t judge anyone for learning a language just on the merits of liking its sounds. What people do with their free time is up to them, and I can’t see how learn ing even a random language is more wasteful than spending just as many hours catching up on Netflix. But as I delved a bit deeper into Faroese, and realized that it was a pretty tricky language – highly inflected, highly irregular, loads of inflections – my motivation waned. I didn’t know when or how I’d ever do more with the language
Miranda Metheny is the Petite Polyglottal American who travels the world in search oflanguage, culture, and interesting stories. Coming Home to Faroese
than study it out ofthe dusty, outdated books I’d found in the university library. So as the go ing got rough, I shifted my atten tion to other things. Then I visited the Faroe Is lands. My curiosity, and my cor respondence with a Faroese friend online, had outlasted my studies and compelled me to spend a long Easter vacation there. I love it. The islands were beautiful and exotic and wild, just mountains rising from the sea, with cirques and hanging valleys and other features my Midwestern vocabulary didn’t even have words for. I loved the cozy, modern homes tucked un A child plays on the Johanna TG 326 during the celebration of the boat’s 130th birthday in der brightly painted concrete Vágur, Suðuroy. Although children in the Faroes start learning English in primary school, I and turf roofed exteriors, the was still grateful I could speak Faroese with the youngest ones. drying sheds stocked with wind cured meat, the undauntable groups. Once I really got going, I But not everyone is equally sheep crossing the highways... was able to find all the resources linguistically talented, or lin and most ofall, the people. I I needed. guistically bold – especially in have received warm welcomes in Though at first I could only older generations. Speaking to many countries, but no one speak slowly and poorly, I de such people in their native lan could ever outdo the Faroese. I veloped enough of a knowledge guage puts them at ease, makes have never felt so safe or so wel of vocabulary, pronunciation, them feel more comfortable ex come. During my short stay, I and grammar that when I ar pressing themselves. Young was invited into so many homes rived in the Faroe Islands and children, who haven’t yet been to for tea, cake, and often, gifts of immersed myself, I was able to school, would have been a com woolen slippers and scarves, progress rapidly. I was having plete mystery to me had I not that I completely lost count. halting conversations within the learned Faroese. Proficiency also If love of the language had week, and managing a certain made me more independent and not been enough, falling in love sort of rough fluency after a informed in every aspect of my with the land and the people month. life there – I could read signs, listen to the radio, and watch It was as if by saying “Hvussu hevur tú tað?” I was performances without demand actually saying, “I'm one of you, though not by birth. I ing and waiting on translations. know something about this place and I'm eager to Most importantly, perhaps, learn more, I love this country and I respect you all. ” Faroese people speak Faroese amongst themselves. To do oth erwise is unnatural and uncom themselves proved much better Those who argue that a lan fortable for most. Not learning for my motivation. I made plans guage is not worth knowing the language, then, sets you to return to the Faroes for a when “everyone already speaks apart from social gatherings, whole summer, and set to work English” are, I think, missing lively discussions, and even learning the language in prepar part of the joy of learning a lan Facebook conversations. Learn ation. In the intervening time, a guage. Sure, most Faroese speak ing it means you can slip right modern textbook and grammar English to some degree, and all in. There is also the simple mat book had been published, and speak a more general Scand ter ofrespect – ofnot expecting an excellent dictionary made inavian language I can under or wanting everyone in your host available online. I also collected stand through Norwegian. country to pander to you and a few Faroese books and movies, Simple communication, there your linguistic limitations at started reading the news and fol fore, would hardly compel me to every turn... no matter how will lowed various Faroese Facebook learn their language. ingly.
8 Parrot Time | Issue #11 | September/October2014 Coming Home to Faroese
Wearing the Faroese national dress on Ólavsøka was an amazing experience that I will never forget. It was beautiful – and heavy! – and really made me feel a part of the culture and celebration.
Most ofthe above is true for The bøur, the field near the vil right spot, a fisherman depends any language on earth. But lage, is fenced in, safe, almost on taking his bearings on fea small languages, for all their ex home. The hagi is beyond... wild, tures ashore – the view from his tra challenges, also come with rough, even mysterious – the perspective. What a joy to dis extra rewards. The Faroese are realm of the mythical “hidden cover all these little things! fiercely proud of and interested people.” The Faroese speak of “at fara in their language. Linguistic top At trola in Faroese means to niður” (to go “down” – to Den ics occur with astonishing regu trawl, in a fishing boat out at mark) and “at koma heim” (to larity in their television sea. They also use it for the act come “home” – to the Faroes), programs, debates and everyday of running after girls. The and that doesn’t only apply to conversations. Even with a Faroese word for perspective is locals. I had to smile the first few translator, a non speaker would sjónarmið, where sjón means times I was asked when I would miss out on a full understanding sight, and mið means fishing be going down and whether I of this whole element of their ground. This baffled me, until I would be coming home again culture. came to understand that mið are soon. And languages are, of small fishing grounds, in sight of I discovered that speaking course, intimately tied to culture land. To make sure he’s in the Faroese, even badly, worked as a and place. Faroese is so well ad sort of shibboleth on the islands. apted to its own tiny, beautiful Though the Faroese are welcom world that even translating it for Those who argue that a ing to start with, I couldn’t help my friends back home can be a language is not worth but feel as though it opened struggle. Eiði is isthmus, but I knowing when “everyone even more doors for me. It was a didn’t use that word once grow already speaks English” conversation starter par excel ing up – in the Faroes, it fea are, I think, missing part lence, and a sign that I was tak tured frequently in directions ofthe joy oflearning a ing my work there seriously. I and place names. Bøur and found that I could wave offa Hagi, infield and outfield, mean language. wide range ofconcerns – that I just that – but so much more. might not know how to walk
Parrot Time | Issue #11 | September/October2014 9 The natural harbour of Gjógv, on Eysturoy. Fishing boats in Klaksvík, on Borðoy. Coming Home to Faroese
I met these lovely ladies outside of the Faroese government buildings, and they told me stories about their time working there as secretaries. When they heard me speak Faroese, they opened up to me right away.
safely on the seaside cliffs, that I made some friends and had a Danes and other foreigners that might be a hassle to deal with, nice time, undoubtably. passed were none the wiser that that I might be an undercover But Faroese is there, in something didn’t add up, that I anti whaling activist (a major many ofmy fondest memories. I was an imposter, that I didn’t concern) – with just a short remember walking downtown belong. In a way I did. In that demonstration of my Faroese one summer night, and a man moment, I felt I could just speaking abilities. bursting out onto his balcony as glimpse, just taste, that feeling It was as ifby saying we passed to belt out the first ofbeing a part ofsomething... “Hvussu hevur tú tað?” (How are stanza of the ballad, Ormurin smaller. Something more intim you?) I was actually saying, “I’m Langi, and how it felt to be able ate. Ofwhat it meant to know one ofyou, though not by birth. to join in the singing as we sang just from a language that you I know something about this the next few stanzas back and were home. place and I’m eager to learn continued singing all the way more, I love this country and I down to Tórshavn. I remember “Why would you learn such respect you all. ” evenings spent with my Faroese a tiny language?” they ask. Had I not learned Faroese, I family, laughing about the news imagine my summer in the is and world events and my life “Do you have sixty thousand lands would still have gone well. there, how nice it was to catch friends?” I reply. I could have done my work, most ofthe jokes and how happy though maybe not as thor they were to explain the new “Uhhh.... no?” oughly, not with such a diverse ones to me. group of informants. I suppose I remember how it felt to “Well, to speak Faroese is to the bird cliffs would have been speak Faroese down in Copen feel that you do...” PT just as high and majestic, the hagen, to navigate through the cured lamb just as delightful, crowded city and yet feel as ifI the music just as hauntingly had never left the islands when I beautiful in the cool blue mist of heard the language I had midsummer nights. I would have learned to love so well. The
12 Parrot Time | Issue #11 | September/October2014 Coming Home to Faroese
A mother and child walk up from the natural harbour of Gjógv, on Eysturoy.
A small concert in Tutl, the main Faroese record company, during the Faroese culture night.
Parrot Time | Issue #11 | September/October2014 13
A Biography of Danish
DDaanniisshh aanndd FFaarrooeessee:: AA BBiiooggrraapphhyy bbyy UUnnii JJoohhaannnneesseenn
an you please hand me to imitate those television voices. can be seen practically 24/7 on the spake?” I’m sure I had a thick accent and satellite TV! Many other shows That’s more or less how it made other mistakes, but the and movies come in English, would have sounded when I Danes always seemed to under with Danish subtitles. asked a Danish boy that ques stand what I was trying to say. And it’s not only television tion. I was around six years old, Growing up in the Faroe Is that comes to us in Danish. playing out on the street on a lands, one is exposed to a lot of More books are published in summer trip in Denmark. I had Danish. There are a handful of Faroese per speaker than almost spoken in Danish, ofcourse — Faroese made or, more com any other language, but our lib or at least in what I thought was monly, Faroese dubbed chil raries and bookstores are still Danish. But as his face twisted dren’s shows, but they are only full of Danish titles. The operat in confusion, I realized that he broadcast on the national televi ing system on our computers, didn’t understand the word sion channel, KVF, for about the apps on our smartphones, “spake,” which I had apparently halfan hour a day. But chil the instructions on our washing invented by saying the Faroese dren’s programming in Danish machines... everything is in word for spade with Danish pro nunciation. For the first time, I became aware of a definite distinction between Faroese and Danish. I remember how shocked I was at the inconsistency this incident revealed. Up until that point, I did not know exactly where the borders lay between the two lan guages. From what I can recall from the early years of my life, I did change the way I spoke when I was speaking “Danish,” but I would just transform my Faroese words into Danish sounding equivalents. I had picked up many ofthe sounds and pat terns from watching children’s shows in Danish, so I would try
Uni Johannesen is a 22-year-old Faroe Islander from the village of Norðragøta who is interested in The Løgting building, parliament of the Faroe Islands, in the 1950s. The Home Rule Act was science and languages. signed into law here in 1948, making Faroese the primary language of the islands.
16 Parrot Time | Issue #11 | September/October2014 A Biography of Danish
Danish, right down to the small stickers on the cheese and chicken at the grocery store. I completely understand why this happens, and that it would only make it more expensive for me, the consumer, to have everything relabelled and rewrit ten in Faroese. But still, it is a nice thought — to see the name ofeverything spelled out in my mother tongue. Danish is not only in our everyday lives, but also in our school system. We start learning Danish in the third grade, and The author, Uni Johannsen, in Þingvellir, Iceland, 2012. most of us already understand and speak a little before those would even sit down and trans Faroese well enough to determ classes start. Until 9th grade, we late the entire text into Faroese, ine if I had answered correctly. have regular Danish classes, but so that I would understand it There were also cases in the most of the other school material thoroughly. It is hard to always 1970’s in which students re is in Faroese. read technical words in a foreign fused to speak Danish at their In upper secondary school, language, and then to have to oral exams in civics, which the the situation is reversed. A lot of express them in Faroese. Many school required of them since work has gone into creating students use more international the examiner did not understand Faroese material for primary Faroese words, which are impor Faroese. Because of this, the school children so that they can ted and therefore closer to their students did not officially gradu start out learning in their moth Danish equivalents, but I like to ate, but were later allowed to er tongue. But once we reach use our own native words, which continue into higher education upper secondary school, pretty complicates matters. because of their special circum much everything is in Danish, stances. except for Faroese class, of They wrote in Danish, However, we have not al course. Some teachers were but spoke Faroese in ways had the legal write to use Faroese, others were Danish, Faroese. Danish was for many but although most ofthem un their homes and fields years the language ofthe ad derstood Faroese, the course and other interactions with ministration — legislative, eccle work was only available in their countrymen. siastic, judicial and commercial Danish. Therefore I would study — and of the entire educational biology, chemistry, physics, his system. The language of the tory, religion, mathematics, geo The Home Rule Act of1948 Church became Danish after the graphy, English — and, of made Faroese the main language Reformation in 1537, in spite of course, Danish — all in Danish. of the Faroe Islands, although the core Protestant belief that All ofthis exposure to Danish Danish was also to be learnt well the word ofGod should be told meant that we were exempted by all. Because ofthis, we to people in their native lan from a whole year ofDanish should all have the legal right to guage. The Faroe Islanders, class the first year ofupper sec write our exams in Faroese or however, were told that God did ondary school, and still ended Danish, according to our prefer not understand Faroese. up with the exact same Danish ence. But sometimes matters are Despite all ofthis, the degree as our counterparts not as black and white as the Faroese maintained their own studying in Denmark. letters ofthe law. When I wrote language in their everyday lives. Although we were spared a my exams in chemistry and They wrote in Danish, but spoke year ofDanish classes, I think mathematics, I was told that it Faroese in their homes and what we gave up was even great was safer for me to write my an fields and other interactions er. I remember how frustrating it swers in Danish, since they with their countrymen. Of was to do readings in Danish, would be graded in Denmark course, the language was pro knowing that I would be present and there was no guarantee that foundly affected by years of ing in Faroese! Sometimes I the graders would understand formal disuse and heavy contact
Parrot Time | Issue #11 | September/October2014 17 A Biography of Danish
that naturally leaves less time and energy for our own. And studies have indicated that if we were to isolate ourselves, only speaking Faroese, the language would likely be in a worse state than it is in now. We need to be able to speak some other lan guages if we want to have op portunities in life and a diversity of experiences. It would be quite boring to spend all ofour days in the Faroes and talk only to the same 50,000 souls our entire lives, wouldn’t it? For my own sake, I am very happy to be able to speak Dan ish. It has brought me the joys and opportunities of easy com munication with all of our Scandinavian neighbours. I ima Road sign in the Faroe Islands, written in Faroese. gine it as a kind ofbond, bring with Danish. But at the begin and English follows closely be ing the Faroes closer to our ning ofthe 20th century, some hind as the third. Many students relatives in Norway and Sweden schools began to offer Faroese even study an additional lan as well as Denmark. The classes, and Faroese gained guage, such as German, Span Icelanders have abandoned equal rights with Danish in ish, or French. learning any mainland Scand schools and churches in 1939. I sometimes wish that inavian language well, and they Finally, the Home Rule Act as Faroese had an even higher pri are drifting farther and farther sured Faroese its official and ority in our schools. Ifwe cannot from the others as a result... dominant status within the is speak and write our own mother something I hope will never hap lands. With the help ofthe na tongue flawlessly, how can we pen here. Ifthe talk ofsecession tionalist movement, which expect to master any other lan ever becomes reality, I won’t started at the end ofthe 19th guages? A survey from 2004 mind if we learn Norwegian or century, and the Faroese Lan shows that Faroese secondary Swedish, or even a pan Scand guage Committee, established in school students have serious di inavian mixture of all three, in 1985, the Danish influence has fficulties with normative Faroese stead ofDanish — as long as been gradually lessened in fa grammar and spelling, so it the old ties to the rest ofour re vour ofa more Faroese style and might be best to focus a bit more gion are preserved. A deep con vocabulary. on Faroese. nection to our linguistic and After all of this language But because the Faroe Is cultural past will give us strong conflict, we still learn Danish in lands is such a small nation, we roots as we move towards a school. Faroese is now the first really do need to be able to Faroese future. PT priority, Danish is the second, speak other languages — and
18 Parrot Time | Issue #11 | September/October2014
At the Cinema - Ludo AAtt tthhee CCiinneemmaa LLUUDDOO reeviewed by Mirandaa Meethenny
udo is the first feature film to mother far more than they know. come out ofthe Faroe Islands in The movie is heavy with symbol fifteen years – and it's a dark one. It ism. We see toys scattered throughout was written and directed by Katrin Ot the house (including an eerie doll tarsdóttir, who is also behind the whose eyes open and close on their road trip movie Bye Bye Bluebird own), birds (mostly ravens crying and (1999) and the slice of life relay At a dead chick the girl finds on the lantic Rhapsody (1989), as well as sev