AEOLIAN ISLANDS 149 Stromboli Vulcano Salina Lipari Town Filicudi

Stromboli ( p180 ) ( p168 ) and go ) and go p168 ( Museo Archeologico Archeologico Museo ( p170 ) and taste the the ) and taste p170 ( Salina Fossa di Vulcano ( p153 ), with its wealth of artefacts p153 ( Grotta del Bue Marino for an atmospheric mud bath after dusk to dusk to for an atmospheric mud bath after heal those bones Eoliano encrusted villages on huge ( p176 ) – an unforgettable experience for the experience for the ) – an unforgettable p176 ( eyes, legs and lungs sweet Malvasia wine Lipari’s dazzling Visit mineral- Climb to the top of Vulcano’s a trip around all of the fascinating Take Enjoy the wild natural beauty of Filicudi’s climb on fiery Go for a night-time

HIGHLIGHTS HIGHLIGHTS

The Aeolians’ natural beauty and unpredictable nature have tempted and repelled people people and repelled tempted have nature natural beauty and unpredictable Aeolians’ The Cobalt-blue sea, wild, windswept mountains swathed in flowers and steaming volcanoes – volcanoes – and steaming swathed in flowers sea, wild, windswept mountains Cobalt-blue holy the European (Isole Eolie) are explaining why the Aeolians these go some way to Islands represent Aeolian the seven of a huge volcanic ridge, Part lovers. grail for island Created ago. outcrop that was formed one million years pinnacle of a 3000m-high the very then Lipari and Salina, and and Alicudi, Filicudi Panarea, explosions – first by successive and Stromboli – the islands exhibit an extraordinary variety finally the still-boiling Vulcano way to jagged vineyards give pumice and lush green Hillsides of silver-grey of landscape. the volcanic soil, of flowers and plants enriched by of black obsidian. A wilderness veins make paradise for naturalists and scuba these islands a of sea life, as well as an abundance islands the Unesco declared volcanic characteristics, Recognising their unique alike. divers in 2000. a World Heritage site Myths name the island as the home of the god of the winds, throughout the centuries. Polyphemus and the god also thought to be home to the monster and they were Aeolus, jet set and film stars, arrive Modern hedonists, including the international Vulcan. of fire, and party to swim, hike, in the summer dive best time in this playground. The in droves and October; prices soar in July and September to come is in May and early June or late when the population doubles. August, Aeolian Islands © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © 148 AEOLIAN ISLANDS effectively run system of farming, commerce creating an in580 BC, and Selinunte Segesta the 4th millennium BC. Aeolians, in theStentillenians, whosettled drew Sicily’sfirst-known tothe inhabitants economy formore than5000years. Obsidian glass thatprovided of themainstay theislands’ to make toolsoutof obsidian, ahardvolcanic fies thatthefirst settlerscametothe islands only itsname,butalso fiery character. his workshop onVulcano island,givingitnot Vulcan, thegodof fire had andmetalworking, island.Jupiter’sto Lipari,the‘capital’ son, the mythicalKingLiparus,gave hisname archipelago itsname. Aeolus’ father-in-law, bag, mind)totake alongonhis trip, gave the gave abag of Odysseus winds(notawind keeper of thewinds,Aeolus, whofamously for manyof theislands’names. TheGreek Themythicalstoryisresponsibleeventful). is very exciting)andthereal (almostequally to theAeolian Islands:themythical(which There are twotypesof historywhenitcomes 150 HISTORY San Fratello (58km) To Cefalù SS289 (50km) To Cefalù AEOLIAN ISLANDS Alicudi Porto The first Greek arrived settlers from The more plausibleversion of thepasttesti- Acquedolci ELA SAD • Hsoy AEOLIAN ISLANDS••History di Militello Sant'Àgata T YRHENIA Alicudi SS113 Alcara San Marco S EA d'Alunzio d'Orlando Filicudi Tortorici Capo Filicudi Porto Naso SS116 Gioiosa A20 Patti Salina Tyndaris Rinella Lipari Lipari Town Acquacalda Levante Porto di Santa Marina Malfa Canneto Salina lands asportsontheeast–westtraderoute theis- to theislands.TheGreeks alsoused and ship-looting,whichmuch wealth brought reappeared, andthat this wasasignthat the remainsSt Bartholomew’s hadmiraculously thereto settle in1083.They announcedthat dred years, untilagroup of monkswassent guardian of the Aeolians. tered theremains of the StBartholomew, enslaved thepopulation andfamouslyscat- destroyedthe islands’homes,Arab attacks the islandsfrequently changed hands. The Roman ruleandtheArablootingsin AD863, especiallyonLipari.Between volcanoes, fledtheincreasinglyas theinhabitants active ing obsidian.Populationdeclinecontinued the islandsbycharging taxes onexport- high TheRomansimpoverished252 and251BC. War, untiltheyfinallyfell toRomebetween andGreeks in the FirstCarthaginians Punic ruins. classical where you canstillvisittheNeolithicand and builttheiracropolisonthepromontory theAegeanbetween andTyrrhenian seas, Castroreale Golfo di Patti Termi The islandslayunpopulated forover ahun- The Aeolian Islands were for the abase Vulcano Barcellona Milazzese Punta Milazzo Panarea Santa Lucia del Mela 0 0 San Pietro Basiluzzo San Giorgio Monforte Spadafora Milazzo To Naples Golfo di (240km) Stromboli Ginostra lonelyplanet.com Scari To Messina 12 miles 20 km Messina (40km) To SS113d (tyrant of allof theMediterranean) burnt frequently. Thenotoriouspirate Barbarossa North Africanpirates attacked theislands so– back tothevolatileislands,andrightly tection. Butitproved to lure difficult people islands shouldberepopulated underhispro- lonelyplanet.com to Lipari it worksoutabout €560 perperson. .airpanarea.com; ViaIditella, Panarea) transfer with (andfour friends)ahelicopterbook yourself For somebrilliant Aeolian-style luxury, Air writing. of fareswere atthetime one-wayhigh-season All thefollowingprices due toheavy seas. cancelled –totheouter islandsatanyrate – are much reduced andsometimesservices hydrofoils operate year-round, thewinter ferries and, although and June toSeptember morealthough expensive. Peak isfrom season are twiceasfrequent andfaster thanferries, they are inadvance. Hydrofoils done weeks telephone bookingsare notaccepted unless ets attheportticket officesbefore boarding; Emanuele II.Youhave yourtick- topurchase Messina ishalfwayupViaVittorio theoffice are along Via deiMille,attheport,andin and Messina. In Milazzoalltheticket offices on aregular basisinsummerfromMilazzo Ferries andhydrofoils leave fortheislands GETTING THERE&AWAY attractive parts of Italy. asoneofto theirpresent-day guise themost tion of thetouristindustry,propelling them when theirwildbeautygrabbedtheatten- Aeolians were untilthe1950s, sight asad any populationandsparse agriculture, the ponents were incarcerated here. Withhardly Fascist times,whenMussolini’s politicalop- came aprisonandcontinuedinthisroleuntil be- periodLipari’scitadel During thesame living conditionsandemigratingtoAustralia. decline, withmanyislanders thepoor fleeing Italy. mainland privileges, which helpedlure from settlers rebuilt upplentifulcivilian theisland,setting theViceroyPedroHowever, of Toledoquickly future of theAeolians wasnotlookingbright. imprisoned asmany10,000people).The its entire he population in1544(somesay Lipari Towntothegroundandtookoff with The 19th century saw afurtherpopulation The 19thcenturysaw Air Panarea AEOLIAN ISLANDS •• Getting There &Away AEOLIANISLANDS••Getting

( % . FromPalermo 090 9834428;www offices areoffices to atorclose the docks. On theotherislands,ticketable atalloffices. informationisavail-the port.Fulltimetable have ticket cabinopposite inthesame offices Sottomonastero). Siremar andUstica Lines from Marina Lunga (alsoknownasPorto arrive atanddepart drofoil andferry services InLipariTownnearlyallhy- by heavy seas. theislandsbutthey canbedisruptedbetween operate Regular hydrofoil andferry services Boat GETTING AROUND for the rates. same Milazzo) NGI Traghetti five daily),buttheyare slowerandlessregular. islands (€7.30,smallcars €24.40,twohours, one daily, summer only). summer only)andPalermo (€32,fourhours, as wellNaples(€75,5½hours, onedaily, (€17.50, twohours fromLipari,five daily), Lipari, five diCalabria daily)andReggio islands withMessina (€16.50,1½hours from minutes). 20 three hours) andFilicudi(€17.50,twohours four dailydepartures forAlicudi(€21.30, and Stromboli(€16.20,2½hours). There are tures dailyforPanarea (€13.30,twohours) in Lipari:combinedthere are ninedepar- islands are lessfrequent unlessyouchange tothe other two hours) onSalina. Services Marinaeither Santa orRinella(€12.80,1½to also stopatVulcano(€10.50,45minutes) and (from around7amto8pm)Lipari,and hydrofoilsSeptember departalmosthourly on totheotherislands.From1June30 foils toLiparifromMilazzo(€11.30),andthen p180, Stromboli Filicudi p175, p181 Panarea andAlicudi p174, p182 Salina ) runhydro- forLiparisee details p166 , Vulcano p170 Both Ustica LinesandSiremar (forcontact , Boat most excitingthingsyou can do. (for agroupof five), isjustaboutoneof the tour over Strombolicosting€480perperson and returning at 2pm. and Friday)departingfromPanarea at9am airport(€176,Monday Calabria to theReggio Air Panarea alsooperates ascheduled transfer Siremar runscarferries fromMilazzotothe Ustica Lineshydrofoils alsoconnectthe An excursion aroundtheislands,witha alsorunsathrice-dailycar-ferry service Mp p147; (Map

% 090 928 40 91; Via dei Mille 26, 090 9284091;ViadeiMille

151 AEOLIAN ISLANDS ISLANDS AEOLIAN AEOLIAN ISLANDS from Lipariare as follows: Barbarossa whowere eagerBarbarossa toget theirhands defence of against the attacks pirates like streets andthe area around the cathedral. town’s real charm can befoundinitsback shops.The with beachwear andsurf-gear that themainstreet isalittletoo crowded of level butthehigh tourismmeans houses maze ofTown isadelightful pastel-coloured for hoppingtotherest of theislands.Lipari and restaurants it’s the best-equippedbase archipelago. Witha goodvarietyof hotels it’satthecentrenot leastbecause of the populated andmostpopularof theAeolians, ofThe ‘capital’ theislands,Lipariismost pop 10,500/elev602m LIPARI THE ISLANDS mules anddonkeys. ods of transportare lovely andold-fashioned: to transportluggage. OnAlicudi,theirmeth- theelectric-carttaxis and Filicudiyoucanuse car hire perday€45).OnPanarea, Stromboli car-rental outlets(scooter hire perday€12, and Salina,allof which alsohave scooter- and one. Youcantake cars onto Lipari,Vulcano own vehicle willworkoutcheaper thanhiring longer thantwoorthree your days,taking If you’re for thinkingof inthesights taking Milazzo for€10perday(see p148 fordetails). take yourowncar. It’sbesttogarage itin 25min ple of daysit’llworkouttooexpensive(ferry) to €1.30 If youare onlyvisitingtheislandsforacou- 3¾hr (ferry) Car &Motorcycle ferry) 45min(SantaMarina, €7.70 1½hr (Rinella, ferry) €3.40 €3 Vulcano €2.50 45min 10min (Rinella, hydrofoil) €6.10 Stromboli €13.30 2hr 1hr (ferry) (hydrofoil) €3.85 (hydrofoil) 2¾hr (ferry) €6.40 Salina €5.30 3¾hr (ferry) €8.95 Panarea €6.90 50min Filicudi €11.30 (hydrofoil) 1½hr Alicudi €14.10 2hr Destination C (hydrofoil) (hydrofoil) 152 Single fares andapproximate times sailing The town’ssoaring castlewasbuiltasa H SAD • Lpr THE ISLANDS••Lipari ost Duration 35min (Santa Marina, hydrofoil) 35min (SantaMarina, and French – and some novels. foreign-language newspapers–usually English,German and pumice mining. You can see thestill- and pumicemining.Youcansee on therevenue fromthe lucrative obsidian La Stampa BOOKSHOPS Information find banks,bars, offices andrestaurants. west of thecastle. Thisarea iswhere you’ll north-southtothe Emanuele, runsroughly the ports.Themainstreet, Via Vittorio Thetowncentremuseum. extends between find thecathedralandarchaeological (knownasthe citadel ports are situated eithersideof thecliff-top Town: Marina LungaorMarina The Corta. Tourists arrive atoneof twoportsinLipari to get tosomeof themore isolated coves. beaches, you’llhave though tomake aneffort andPorticello.Canneto thepopularpebblybeaches ofbetween active pumiceminesnorthof LipariTown, Orientation LIPARI ISLAND The rest of theislandhides somegood Quattropani Calògero San (Via Vittorio Emanuele 170) Selection of Emanuele 170)Selection Vittorio (Via Quattrocchi Mt Chìrica (602m) Pianoconte Mt Pilato Acquacalda Mt SanAngelo (476m) (594m) castello Rocche Rosse Baia Unci 0 0 Lipari Town Canneto ὄ Observatory Bocche di lonelyplanet.com Vulcano ). Here you’ll Porticello (Cave diPomice) Campobianco Bianca Spiaggia To Salina To Messina To Vulcano 1 mile (10km) To Panarea (150km) Palermo (6km); Milazzo 2 km (40km) (90km) (23km) To Vittorio Emanuele128; Vittorio snacksandregularly screens football late) Serves matches. Sat, 6.30-11.30pm Sun) Emanuele 53; 11; ViaSant’Anna)Alsooperatesafirst-aid service. Police Doctor Emergency Ambulance EMERGENCY lonelyplanet.com the townin1544, theSpaniardsthrough murderous rampageFollowing Barbarossa’s CITADEL (UPPERTOWN) Office Tourist Main TOURIST INFORMATION Post Office POST andtravelat thepostoffice agencies. Outside bankinghours youcanchange cash Via VittorioEmanueleislinedwithATMs. MONEY Centralino Ospedale CivilediLipari Farmacia Internazionale in thewindowof each pharmacy. duty,isdisplayed which pharmacy isonnight The MEDICAL SERVICES Office Ticket Siremar LEFT LUGGAGE www.isole-eolie.com RESOURCESINTERNET Net C@fe Point Internet or€6anhour. at€3perhalf-hour Prices start ACCESSINTERNET At thehospital(OspedaleCivilediLipari Centralino). Off-peak, theofficeisrandomly closedin Off-peak, the afternoon. on alltheislands. details ofaccommodationandservices Pick upafree copyof islands andcanassistyouwithfindingaccommodation. Jul &Aug)Thisofficeprovidesinformationfor all the year round,8.30am-1.30pmSat&Sun 4.30-8pm Mon-Fri Emanuele202; .info; ViaVittorio 6.30pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1.20pm 6.30pm Mon-Fri, Sat) h service. about islandhotelsandoffers asecure onlinebooking Sights 8am-8pm) farmacie diturno, ( % ( % 090 9811333;ViaGuglielmoMarconi) (Via Vittorio Emanuele207; Vittorio (Via ( h % 090 981 35 27; Via Garibaldi 61; 090 9813527;ViaGaribaldi ( 10.30am-1.30pm &6.30-11.30pmMon- % 090 9885267) THEISLANDS••Lipari Ospitalità inBlu, Ospitalità ( 090 981 34 94; Via Vittorio 090 9813494;ViaVittorio % ( h % (inItalian)Full ofinformation (Marina Lunga; perbaghr€3; (Marina 090 9812427;ViaSant’Anna) 9am-1pm &5-9pm Mon-Fri) 090 9880095;www.aasteolie ( % a timetable showing atimetable h 090 9811583;Via 8.30am-1.30pm & whichcontains h ( % 8.30am- 090 98851 h 10am- is anabsolute acollec- must,asitcontains Classical Section as well modelsof aBronzeAge burial include asizable collectionof burialurns arecropolis. These beautifully displayedand ne- finds fromLipari’s 11th-century-BC small pavilion directly infrontof the palace. finds fromtheotherislandsare inthe housed island’s prehistoric Prehistoric civilisation. ofevidence the relative sophisticationof the facts issomefinelysculpted obsidian,telling era downstairs. Amid theplethoraof arte- tinuing inchronological ordertotheRoman Neolithic andBronzeAges upstairs andcon- tefacts foundonLipari,beginningwiththe Vescovile (Bishop’sPalace) toar- isdevoted Just southof thecathedral, the formerPalazzo Archeologica) isdividedintotwobuildings. in Europe. The tion of findsthatisamongthemostcomplete 988 0174;adult/concession€6/3; history, the If you’re atallinterested inMediterranean Museo Archeologico Eoliano what’s here withoutvisiting the museum. unearthed. Youwon’tmake of much sense Neolithic periodtotheRomanerahave been ern halfof where thecitadel findsfromthe interest isthe ruined baroquechurches, butthereal area of skin tucked under his arm. of (1728)withhisflayed statue StBartholomew and features: isasilver inthenortherntransept cloister. Theinterior ishungwithchandeliers isthe12th-centuryBenedictine ment tosurvive mercenary.Theonlyoriginalele- an Italian name (Khair-ed-din wasactually Barbarossa), who,despite hisArab stroyed byBarbarossa the originalNormancathedral,which wasde- diSanBartolomeo Cattedrale Concordato) thatleadsuptothe17th-century todate findselsewhereuse in the Med. provide timelinethatarchaeologists afantastic the slowaccumulationof windblownearth, have by revealed. Theneatlayers, preserved explain thedifferent thatexcavations strata and are still relatively intact. marauders, itsfortificationslookimpregnable hadtodefenddel never thetownfromfurther rebuilt thecita- andfortifiedLipari.Although On theothersideof thecathedralis Around thecathedralare acoupleof other ofYou enter thecastleviaaset steps (Viadel Along thestreets of thecastle,plaques Museo Archeologico Eoliano Archeologico Museo (Sezione Classica). It houses Classica).Ithouses (Sezione archaeological dig archaeological Archaeological Section Archaeological . Itwasbuilttoreplace h 9am-1.30pm &3-6pm) inthesouth- (Sezione (Sezione ( % 153 090

AEOLIAN ISLANDS ISLANDS AEOLIAN AEOLIAN ISLANDS 154 Pianoconte (4km); Le Macine(4km); Quattrocchi (3km); To VillaDiana(2km); San Calògero(5km) 4 6 1 3 2 5 LIPARI TOWN

H SAD • Lpr on Town THE ISLANDS••Lipari

Via

Diana Via Torrente Ponte Torrente Via Via I Conti E V Balestrieri Via ὈὈ ὈὈ AC 26 Via G Marconi

Via Cappuccini Via Ponte Via Via Barone 23

Via G Rizzo Parco Archeologico

Contrada Diana

22 Mancuso Via

Via Carnevale Via

Ant Re Bernardino Via

onino Via Ausonia Via

6 Mag

giore 39 Via F Crispi F Via 24 36 19 2 8

Campobianco (CavediPomice;4km); 40

32 Emanuele Vittorio Via Via Vittorio Emanuele Vittorio Via Porticello (6km);Aquacalda(8km); Canneto (3km);Casajanca

To BaiaUnciCampSite(3km);

38 Amendola Via

Vicolo Vulcano Vicolo

Via Sant'Anna Maggio XXIV Via

Vicolo Alicudi Vicolo B

Vicolo Ulisse Vicolo Via Maurolico Via

30 Via Nuova Via 33 3 1 Carasco (1.5km) 4

Via 31

28 Spiagga Bianca(4km);

Via Quattropani (11km)

To Hotel Umb Roma I erto 34 Via G Franza

Via Dante

18 Lunga 43 11 Marina

Roberto Foti

Via del Concord del Via T YRHENIA 25

Via Via Gari Via Roma Via 42

Ὀ Ὀ ba Ὀ Ὀ Garibaldi ldi Meligunis 20 29 Salita

13 Via Maddalena Via 35 Immacolata S EA 37

Marte Esso PetrolStation 9

Via Addolorata 12 21

Madonna ato

Salita Grazie delle San Giuseppe 14 Mazzini Palermo (150km) Piazza Milazzo (40km); Citadel Other Islands; Hydrofoils to Via Castello Caterina Marina Santa Corta Ferries & 16 10 15 T YRHENIA 41 0 0 S EA TRANSPORT SHOPPING DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Siremar &UsticaLinesTicket Marina LungaFerry&Hydrofoil Marina CortaHydrofoil B4 Residence AlbergherieEolie.. Museo ArcheologicoEoliano Museo ArcheologicoEoliano Museo ArcheologicoEoliano Gruppo diNavigazione(Boat Cattedrale diSan Ospedale CivilediLìpari Farmacia Internazionale...... Emergency Doctor...... (see6) Office...... Booth...... (see41) Siremar &UsticaLinesTicket NGI TraghettiTicketOffice.. Terminal...... Terminal...... Bus Stop...... Autobus UrsoTicketOffice.. Fratelli Laise...... Il Gabbiano...... Bar LaPrecchia...... Al Pescatore...... Trattoria d'Oro...... SISA supermarket...... Pasticceria Subba...... La Piazetta...... La Nassa...... La Cambusa...... Kasbah...... Filippino...... E Pulera...... Villa Meligunis...... Pensione Neri...... Hotel Oriente...... Hotel GiardinosulMare..... Enzo IlNegro...... Diana Brown...... Casa Vittorio...... Roberto Foti...... (EpigraphicSection)...... (ClassicalSection)...... (ArchaeologicalSection).. Tours)...... Diving CentreLaGorgonia.. Da Massimo...... Bartolomeo...... Archaeological Dig...... Post Office...... Police...... Centralino...... Net C@fe...... Main TouristOffice...... Left Luggage...... (see44) La Stampa...... Internet Point...... lonelyplanet.com 100 m D Palermo (150km) Messina (90km); Milazzo (40km); Hydrofoils to 0.1 miles 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B3 B2 B2 B2 C5 B2 B2 B4 C5 B3 C5 B3 B2 B4 B4 B5 B4 B4 C3 A4 B5 A4 A4 C6 B4 B5 B4 B1 C4 C4 C4 C5 C5 B4 C4 C4 B3 A4 B6 B4 B2 B3 B3 of of statuettes dancers andactors –theone masks intheworld.There are alsoanumber most complete collectionof Greek theatrical mosttreasuredthe museum’s items: the an impressive arrayof and decorated vases ground andLipari’snecropolis.Upstairs is lonelyplanet.com the Tabacchi Edicola inMilazzo, see p146 ). (available in Litografia Artistica Cartografica Isole EolieoLipari Vulcano. Theroute isclearlymarked onthe ment) the here thevineyards to atrackleadsthrough Monte GiardinaandMonte Guardia. From will leadyououttoapromontoryformed by which andPortodelleGente, Hotel Carasco Mediterranean. Followsignssouthtothe activity inthe all thevolcanicandseismic a smallplacewithbigjob–monitoring Just southof thetownisLipari’sobservatory, The Observatory should take aboutanhour by car. thatagrandtourofenough itsperimeter the bestswimmingspots.Theislandissmall checking out,especiallyifyouwanttofind holiday there, therest of theislandisworth that youcouldeasilyspendyourentire LipariTownissoself-contained Although AROUND LIPARI ISLAND finds are in the museum. alas, israrely openbutallof theimportant visible intheovergrown grass.Thepark, necropolis, where thetombstonesare still At thesouthwestern endof theparkis andRomanhouses. and 4thcenturiesBC) revealed partof theoriginal Greek walls(5th west of ViaVittorioEmanuele,which has del isthe outsidethecita- The onlyworthwhilesight AROUND LIPARI TOWN of Greek andRomantombs. little gardenof engraved stonesandaroom HereArchaeological Section. youwillfinda in asmallerbuildinglocated southof the Section (the LipariPainter; 300–270BC). artist simplyknownas‘IlPittore Liparoto’ polychromatic decorated vases tains byan some elegantjewellery.Thenextroomcon- with Child)isparticularlybeautiful–and of The museum’s lastpartisthe The museum’s Andromeda conBambino Observatory with fantastic viewsacrossthewater withfantastic to (Sezione Epigrafica), which is housed Epigrafica), which ishoused (Sezione Parco Archeologico ContradaDiana Parco Archeologico

THEISLANDS••Lipari ( % 1:25,000 map produced by 1:25,000mapproduced by 090 9811081; (Andromeda h Epigraphic by appoint- , the crater inthelasteruptionAD700. all of thepumice,which explodedfrom catch abusreturning to Lipari. can walkthe5km northto bus route isat temperature of 60°C. The laststoponthe thermal springthat flowedataconstant of village properveers off totheRomanbaths village of than1kmnorthis thesmall the south).Less preciate thestunningviewsof Vulcanoto twotoap- you’llonly need Eyes, although to thebelvedere knownas vegetation, theroadclimbsforabout 3km from theMarina somelush Lunga),through West of LipariTown(andaccessiblebybus toQuattropaniNorthwest 1.2km). (about from thenorthernendof Campobianco Rocks). Youcanreach thecrater viaapath obsidian knownasthe Also aroundtheconeare fieldsof solidified some time to slide. and mosttours willstophere toallowyou Kaos features intheTaviani brothers’ classicfilm directly intotheazure water. Such ascene allow youtoslidefromthehillsideabove viaoneof thepumicechutesthe sea, that place isoneof thebetter spotstosplashinto dock below the road,andpumiceisstillshippedfrom lie thepumicequarriesof or with sandals beach shoes. are murderonyourfeet socomeequipped Porticello of grey. Anothergoodbeach istheoneat leaving winter itadarkerrough seas, shade have slowly washedawaybythe These been the layers of pumicedustthatoncecovered it. lar beach ontheisland.Itsnamederives from Bianca Spiaggia (€5 kayaks andcanoes per hour). ming andyoucanhire deckchairs, umbrellas, most accessiblebeach fromLipariforswim- village. Thelongpebbledbeach isalsothe of ashort tunnel, Only 3kmnorthof LipariTown,attheend ofLipari TownNorth slopes of thevastminesrunalongsideof Monte Pilato isactuallythesourceof BiancaandPorticello Spiaggia Between About 1kmfurthernorthof is Canneto San Calogero . Youcanonlyget tothechutes byboat (north again). Beware, thepebbles (north again).Beware, Pianoconte Monte Pilato Monte (White Beach), themostpopu- (White Beach), , famousinantiquityforthe Quattropani Canneto ; asideroadbefore the (476m).Thisunlikely is arelatively quiet Rocche Rosse , fromwhere you Campobianco Quattrocchi Acquacalda (Red (Four

and

The . 155 AEOLIAN ISLANDS ISLANDS AEOLIAN AEOLIAN ISLANDS to say youareto say in good health. amedicalcertificateneed fromyourdoctor dinghies. Another outletis dinghies. Panarea €30; 2;Strombolibynight€35,Alicudi &FilicudiMaurolico €45, ( of Fire). theSciara delFuoco(Trail Stromboli tosee of andtoalltheislands,includingone Filicudi €40; Stromboli bynight€35,Alicudi& regina.com; Via Garibaldi; Gruppo diNavigazione €10) single dive/basicbeginner’scourse€32/60;mask&finperday Corta; www.lagorgoniadiving.it; SalitaSanGiuseppe,Marina contact information oncourses ortorent equipment, popular, given waters. thecrystal-clear For Snorkelling andscubadivingare incredibly Activities your own picnic. foodanddrinks,orjustbring hut thatserves drop youoff(andpickup).There’s alittle day onthebeach. Alternatively, get aboatto of downhere; noise perfect ifyouwantaquiet cacti. There’s oranykind of notapeep traffic an idylliclandscapeof longgrass,flowers and walk downforabout10to15minutes through to leave yourcar/scooter after some150mand out forthesigndowntobeach. You’llhave for aquickdip.Fromthemainroad,watch togetto make here, aneffort soit’snotaplace ful cleanwaters forswimmingin.You’llneed di Vinci eastern sideistheisland’sbestbeach, 156 Tours % Just before youreach LipariTownfromthe You cantake excursions from TOP FIVEDIVINGSPOTS AROUNDLIPARI

. If taking yourfirst. Iftaking youwill scubacourse 090 9811714,3332986624; www.damassimo.it; Via

H SAD • Lpr THE ISLANDS••Lipari rock isstreaked withwhite pumicestone,hidingcracksthatare hometolobsters La Parete deiGabbiani andsealife rocksurfaces colourful Pietra delBagno other seacritters onthesouthernsideofisland Pietra Menalda that are swathedwithschoolsoftechnicolour fish Secca delBagno platform interrupted bymulticoloured channels Punta Castagna , a peacefulpebbledcove withwonder- Diving Center La Gorgonia LaGorgonia Diving Center h h tours Mar-Oct) tours Mar-Oct) ( % (medium, depth 18m to 40m) See the home of octopuses, eel,groupersand (medium,depth18mto40m)Seethehomeofoctopuses, (difficult, depth 10m to 40m) A spectacular dive (difficult,depth10mto40m)Aspectacular witha10mwhite pumice (difficult, depth 40m to 45m) A breathtaking collection of colourful walls ofcolourful collection (difficult,depth40mto45m)Abreathtaking (alllevels, 20mto40m)Circumnavigate theBagnorock,whilewitnessing 090 9822237;www.navigazioni . Italsohires boatsand conductsboattours (medium,20mto45m)Analmostblack’n’white dive: theblacklava Roberto Foti Roberto ( % 090 9812616; Da Massimo Spiaggia Spiaggia (

% 090

swarm aroundtheportwhenyouarrive) usu- private homesontheisland.Thetouts(who the touristoffice willbilletnewarrivalsin wildly. so for adoubleroomare given here astheyvary prices andAugust)season (July and high or halfboard.Thelow(OctobertoMarch) may have and/ tocommitamultidaystay average by30%inJulyandAugustyou pricesincrease However, on stay. fortable Lipari provides plentyof optionsforacom- Sleeping rubberdinghy3-/6-seaterperday€70/120) motorised 31; inItalian;ViaFrancesco Crispi 981 1370;www.robertofoti.it owner atViaGaribaldi 78,onthewayfrom Garibaldi nearMarina Corta. You’ll findthe furnished rooms are Via inatiny alleyoff 15;rper person€18-40) Italian; VicoSparviero Reserve for August. restaurant. nearby) andthere isaself-service shady eucalyptustrees theroadruns (although tion atMarina Lunga. Ithas sites underneath sta- and accessiblebybusfromtheEssoservice about3kmnorth ofis atCanneto, LipariTown 13.50; 2,LocalitàCanneto;perperson€7-12,tent€7- Garibaldi usually have of use a kitchen). renting furnished roomsare agooddeal(you The BUDGET for alist of establishments. To rent thetouristoffice anapartmentcontact ally alsohave decentroomsinprivate houses. Casa Vittorio Casa Baia Unci In peak season, if all else fails, the staff at fails,thestaff ifallelse In peakseason, affittacamere h 15 Mar-15 Oct) 15 Mar-15

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( 090 981 19 09; www.baiaunci.com; Marina 090 9811909;www.baiaunci.com;Marina % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels (roomsforrent) operators 090 9811523;www.casavittorio.it in Theisland’sonlycampsite (Continued on page 165) These basic These . (Continued from page 156) page from (Continued nal kitchen andtwoterraces withviews. uptofivesleep peopleandthere isacommu- Marina tothetowncentre. Corta Somerooms Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels bought bytheSwiss artistEdwinHunzikerbought in Tufo 1;s€40-75,d€75-130; Aeolian styleandfeels like someone’s home. balconies. Theinterior isdecorated in typical has viewsover the archaeological parkfromits iently located inthehistoriccentre. right Italso expensive, thispatrician pink villaisconven- 43;d€70-130; Via GMarconi front atCanneto. islocatedCasajanca justbehindthewater- RunbySilviaandMassimo,for winter stays. a naturalthermalwater poolthat’sperfect relaxing placetoenjoybreakfast andithides countryside style. Thedappledcourtyardisa peccably stylish mixof antiquesandFrench rooms, allof which are decorated inanim- Aeolian ithasonly10 RuccioCarbone, poet on thewholeof Lipari.Once thehomeof tofindamoreYou’ll struggle charming hotel 115,Località Canneto;d€60-200; Garibaldi .it; Marina There are large rooms for families too. bursting withjasmineandhibiscusbushes. each hasalittle porch inthelushgardenthat’s The roomsare minimalinterms of décor,but scary bric-a-brac thatcrowdsthereception. eccentric joint,fullof funny,bizarre andoften 35;s€40-80,d€60-130; ViaGMarconi lipari.com; breakfast. have feature –overlook thelittlemarinawhileyou but it’stheroof terrace that’sthespectacular and littlefridges. Allroomshave abalcony, with traditionaltiledfloors, goodbathrooms rooms Enzo IlNegrohasclean,comfortable 29;s€40-60,d€60-130; ViaGaribaldi .altervista.org; Enzo IlNegro MIDRANGE longer andoperates abookexchange. stays) local information.She laundry(for alsodoes leyway. SouthAfrica–bornDianaisafountof behind ViaVittorioEmanueleinasmallal- budget choice ontheisland.TheB&Bistucked rooms (somewithsmallkitchens) are thebest andcomfortable Brown’s spotless,bright 3; s€30-80,d€40-100; brown.it; VicoHimera Villa Diana Villa o Oriente Hotel o Pensione Neri Casajanca Diana Brown

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) October for thewinter season. p51). accreditation taste of and asweet honey (see DOC ink fish). withthedyeof‘black’ risotto(ricestained a particularfavourite andyoucanalsofind capers witholive oilandbasil.Swordfish is a simpleblendof theisland’sexcellent at theendof theday.Try sole, allof which enduponrestaurant tables fish, includingtuna,mullet,cuttlefishand The waters of thearchipelago abound with Eating a friendly atmosphere. is fabulous.Thehotel isfamily-runandhas The poolsideterrace, edge, situated onacliff chichi décor–canefurniture and thelike. Nov; 65;d€196-300; .giardinosulmare.it; ViaMaddalena arranged at reception. terrace. Diving andwater sportscanalsobe tion, great facilitiesandascenicrooftop top hotel, offering luxuriousaccommoda- 18th-century villa,theMeligunis isLipari’s 7;s€110-240,d€150-300; Via Marte Meligunis Villa TOP END restaurants andcoulddowith a facelift. is inconveniently located forthetownand a large poolanditsownprivate jetty.Butit edge, onacliff ably wonderfullocation,right areal mixedCarasco’s bag.Ithasanundeni- s€60-136,d€80-220; Delle Genti; helpful. and isfriendly on therooftop terrace. Theservice too (perperson €40to€70)andasolarium archaeological park.There are apartments in character alittle)andwithviewsof the the roomshere are lacking spacious(though street withanattractive terracotta courtyard, 90, d€90-150; Emanuele101;s€65- www.residenceeolie.it; CorsoVittorio and runsitinthesame bohemian spirit. from itsterrace. The artist’sfamilystillowns rus andolive trees andthere are lovely views aboveIt stands LipariTowninagardenof cit- the 1950s,wasrenovated intothislovely hotel. Many restaurants attheendof close The localwineismalvasia,which hasa GiardinosulMare Hotel Carasco Hotel Eolie Alberghiere Residence as (denominazione di origine controllata)(denominazione di origine ) a Anattractive smallhotel with

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AEOLIAN ISLANDS ISLANDS AEOLIAN AEOLIAN ISLANDS 28-32; meals€25-30; €35-40) enter Pianoconte. Creative Aeolian cook- rant islocated outsideLiparijustasyou sme restaurant. summer the middleof agardenatFilippino’spopular €45-50; ahead. book of surprisingtastes. Dress appropriately and on old-fashioned Siciliancooking andisfull most classyrestaurant. Themenu isbased chunk of PiazzaMunicipio,thisisLipari’s €45-50; almonds roe), and fennel. bottarga anddelicacies such as tomatoes) formaggi some of thebestpizzasinSicily (trythe pies. Thefoodisexcellent–thisplacedoes candlelit dinners take placeundercano- backgardenwheredécor andafantastic Kasbah placewithaNorthAfrican isasleek 25; pizzas€8,meals€35-40; bigger. be is nicelylow-key, buttheportions could swordfish are great too. Thepresentation Lobster-filled ravioli orthefresh grilled olive garlicandbasil. oil,capers, tomatoes, ing includesfishin dishes. Popularwith the locals. a goodsmallrestaurant withfresh seafood are a speciality. house dentice, include fish such as toria awayfromthemaindrag.Favourites inthisfamily-runtrat- cuisine isserved €25-30; meanpasta in fish italsodoes and lasagne. itspecialises a homemadefeeling. Although good, unpretentious cookingthatstrives for meals €20-25) location and lively atmosphere. thelikes of Audreyserved Hepburn. Great Jun) behind Pasticceria Subba;pizza€4-7; La Piazzetta RESTAURANTS 166 Le Macine Le Macine d’Oro Trattoria La Nassa La Cambusa E Pulera Filippino o Apopularpizzeriarestaurant thathas H SAD • Lpr THE ISLANDS••Lipari ThisSlowFood–awardedrestau- h h h ortrytheAeolian which sausages, (linguinewithdriedpressed fish – mild cheeses withbasilandfresh –mildcheeses evenings only Jun-Sep) onlyJun-Sep) evenings closed MonNov-Mar) closed MonOct-Mar) ( Kasbah

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Otherwise, thereOtherwise, are half adozenrental per 24hr€45/55) 31;scootersperday€15-30,FiatVia FCrispi Panda/Uno August the service increases. Ifyouplanon August theservice Porticello andQuattrocchi. DuringJulyand (€1.30, 30minutes, ninedaily),Acquacalda, There are frequent departures forCanneto fromtheoffice. You canpickuptimetables atMarina station Lunga. near theEssoservice lonelyplanet.com slhru gases. sulphurous emitsawispofthe fumaroleconstantly already extinctinancient times,although lies ontheisland’s southerntipandwas sand. black anicelongstretch(Black SandBeach), of where Sabbia Nera youwillfindtheSpiaggia and thePortodiPonente, Porto diLevante All facilitiesare concentrated the between are attheend,hiddenbehindasmallhillock. lungomare alongthebaths andwalkright turnright Vulcanello peninsula. Toreach themud asyoufacetheisland,issmallright, Tothe Boats dockatthePortodiLevante. Orientation Gelso and Cannitello. to relax and enjoythetranquilbeaches at thetime –Vulcanoisallabout taking sights It’s notaplacetocomeandenjoytraditional thesteaming yellowsulphuricrocks. to see cratercoast, andclimbinguptothesleeping sulphur baths, aboataroundthewild taking place tospendadayortwo,enjoyingthe and hotsprings,thislittleislandisagreat foritstherapeuticmudbaths jetset Italian on Vulcanoisland.Worshipped bythe di Vulcano(orGranCratere, ‘Large Crater’) di Vulcano,sitsthesteaming crater of Fossa Only 1kmsouthof Lipari,acrosstheBocche pop 720/elev500m VULCANO outfits by the port. Roberto CAR &MOTORCYCLE ifyourtime the sights is limited. which areSeptember), agoodwayof seeing 11.30am and5pmfrom1Julyto30 land (€3.70,onehour,departures 9.30am, whenyoulike.(six/10 for€6/9.80)touse using thebusalotbuybookletof tickets Of Vulcano’s three volcanoes, theoldest Of Vulcano’sthree volcanoes, The companyalsooffers tours of theis-

Foti (seafront promenade);thepools (seafront ( rents outscooters andcars. % THEISLANDS••Vulcano 090 981 23 52; www.robertofoti.it; 090 9812352;www.robertofoti.it; Favoloro 1) rne rooms. rented Itprovides informationon street, 50mbackfromthedock. h hydrofoils. forUsticaLines ciale) Changesmoneyandsellstickets Tourist Office Tourist TOURIST INFORMATION Post Office POST Agency Thermessa Banco diSicilia MONEY Pharmacy Bonarrigo MEDICAL SERVICES Police Doctor Emergency EMERGENCY only) HasanATM. h Information Grosso Sabbia Nera Porto diPonente VULCANO Capo Spiaggia 8am-2pm Jun-Oct) A domelike buildingonthemain Adomelike 8am-2pm Jun-Oct) 8.30am-1.30pm & 2.45-3.45pm Mon-Fri Jun-Sep Jun-Sep 8.30am-1.30pm &2.45-3.45pmMon-Fri Cappo

T Y R R H E N I A N Secco ( % Sareceno

S E A Arcipelago Vulcanello (418m) ( 090 9852110) (123m) Hotel Mt % Mt di Fanghi ( Laghetto Hotel LesSablesNoirs % Bocche di ( Vulcano 090 9853002;ContradaPiano) % Porto diLevante ( 090 9852028;ViaProvinciale 41; ( Valle dei % Fossa diVulcano Mostri % 090 985 23 35; port area; 090 9852335;port (Gran Cratere) To Lipari ( (6km) % Piano Samossà (391m) 090 9852220;ViaLentia) 090 9852230;ViaProvin- Punta Mt Rosso 090 9852244;Via (328m) 2km 1mile 0 0 Faro Nuovo Luccia Punta Gelso Grillo Capo Mt Aria (500m) dell'Asina Spiaggia Cannitello Spiaggia Milazzo (37km)

167

To AEOLIAN ISLANDS ISLANDS AEOLIAN AEOLIAN ISLANDS to beaware that thisisa volcano.‘sleeping’ any problem withofficialdom but youdoneed youwon’thave (which does) everyone ceed nounces thedangers of thecrater. Ifyou pro- official plaque(in fourlanguages), which an- have tobuyaticket (€3)andtake note of the the crater. theascentyou’ll youstart Before look outforagravel track)which leadsupto track slopesofftotheleft(notwellsignposted; along ViaProvinciale. About 500mfurther,a which take yousouthoutof theportarea signs for‘AlCratere’ (oraskfordirections), Followtheintermittent crater isself-evident. diVulcano Fossa (391m).Thewalkuptothe The island’sothermainattractionisclimbing shapes. grotesque wind-eroded darkrocksthathave formed Mostri Vulcanello, where the youcansee long stonefinger juttingupinto the sky). of thedockatbottomof a h Laghetto diFanghi Once you’ve disembarked, head over tothe PORTO DILEVANTE &AROUND Sights &Activities 168 FOSSA DIVULCANO Just nexttothebaths istheconeof should avoiditaltogether. Youshouldnotstayinformoreradioactivity. than10or15minutes andpregnant women have advisedthatprolongedimmersioncanbebadforyouonaccountofthepool’sslight you don’tminddestroyingbecauseoncethesmellgetsinit’snearimpossibletogetridof. provide youwith‘special’ suremake nottouseyourfavourite fluffytowel–ifyou’re stayinginahotel, thestaffcanusually another five to10minutes lollingabout.Finally, inadvance,for€1)and ashower(gettoken take where there are hot,bubblingspringsinasmallnaturalsea-water pool.You’re advisedtospend for theclaymasktodry,washitoffinpool,andrunnaturalspaaroundcorner, as thesulphurisacidicandcanbedamaging totheretina yourhairmud-free (keep too).Wait (bodyandface).Don’tletanyofthemudgetinyoureyes the poolandapplyittoyourskin way intothepool–theycanscaldyourfeet, flip-flops. sotake water, andmindyoudon’tstep onanyofthehotairvents thatspringfromthegroundon days, rollingaroundinthemudcanbeatantalisingexperience. Dipintothewarm,palegreen with sulphite allergies are atriskhere, soifyouknowsuffer, stayaway. ofrotten eggs. places,sendingpeople runningandthinking incredibly Those smellyincertain diseases.considered It’salso ofrheumaticpainsandskin anexcellenttreatment forallkinds The A SMELLY PITORNATURE’S HEALINGSPA? 7am-11pm) H SAD • Vlao THE ISLANDS••Vulcano Have fun! Remember toremove watchesandjewellerywithstones,asthemudwillruinthem.Experts Once youhave hadtimetorelax inthemuddywater, getsomesoftclayfromthebottomof If you’re ongoodterms withlife’s essentialelementanddon’tmindsmellingfunnyforafew (Valley of theMonsters), agroupof fanghi mud baths. They’re (north) right isalarge naturalpoolofthick,warm,sulphurousmudwater thathaslongbeen

(admission €2,groupsof10€1; fanghi towels. The samegoesforyourswimsuit–wearsomethingthat faraglione Valle dei (a beach. turnsclay-like Thesand further up, it feels asifyou’re walkinguphillonasandy the groundiscovered soil,so withblacksandy inthefirsta bittough partof theclimb,where point of thecrater’s edge (290m).Thegoingis Contact the Contact climb isnotvery you canhire tough, aguide. perature of theescaping gascan be searing. tothemasthetem- Don’twalktooclose gases. ventyou willpassfumarolesthatconstantly around thecrest of thecrater. Alongthepath islands lineduptothenorth,walk clockwise walk alongthehard crater floor. to reach thebottom)andmanygodown fora traildescends(ittakesA steep three minutes volcano isclearlyvisiblelessthan50mbelow. look intothemaincrater. Thebottomof the reached thetop,youcanleanover aledge and juice, icecream andcoffee. Whenyou’ve water,café halfwayupthepath,which sells bring plentyof water, there though is asmall applysunscreen and shoes, strong, closed is alsovery somake exposed, sure youwear it’s agoodideatohave atissuehandy.Theway rocky. There’s abitof dustblowingaround, so with thefinalpartof thepath becomingquite For stunning360-degree viewsof allthe It’s about onehour’sscrambletothelowest Though it’s notreally sincethe Though necessary Gruppo Nazionale Vulcanologia Gruppo Nazionale Vulcanologia lonelyplanet.com ( % 090 Da Maurizio (see p170 ). bytherestaurantoutings. Ithasastand ascent of Stromboli(€50)andsnorkelling volcano aswellothertreks, includingan 58 75). 985 2528) Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels leave at11am, 12.10pmand5pm, pickingup fromGelso atthedirt track.Buses let youoff going toeitherof thebeaches, askthedriver to (20minutes). Ifyouare curves down thesteep 4.30pm, 15Jun-15Sep) (€1.95; is amuch better idea. The transport ispretty limiting,sohiringascooter to andfromthe main port. their tranquillityandtake abitof timegetting beaches aremind thatboththese loved for sun lounges (€8)andumbrellas (€5).Keep in bar/café,whererudimentary youcanalsohire greenery, is which issurrounded bylush, almosttropical dell’Asina Spiaggia of andinvitingwaterscent sweep blacksand is that branch before off thetown.Thefirst cres- signposted dirttracks( steep pedestrians only) approachedtranquil beaches by nearGelso, the splendidbeaches. There are two excellent come here forthedayonly,inordertoenjoy rent anapartment(see p170 ). Mostpeople with theisolation,peaceandquiet,youcan eatery here (see p170 ) andifyoufallinlove beaches thatare crowded.There’s never alittle geous littleportwithacoupleof black-sand On theisland’ssoutherncoastisGelso , agor- GELSO holidays). public Monday toSaturday(twoonSundayand 8amand6pm Grillobetween and Capo toPiano fromPortodiLevante buses seven views of thecoastandouttosea. Grillo, to Capo where there are breathtaking population lives, andfromthere youcanget Piano istheplainwhere mostof Vulcano’s PIANO &CAPOGRILLO hire onthebeach (€8for one hour). the sky.Paddleboats are usuallyavailable for beach, with stunning Nera at Levante On thefarsideof thepeninsulafromPortodi PORTO DIPONENTE&AROUND To get to Gelso andthebeachesTo get bypublic toGelso (Black Sand Beach), asmooth, sandy (BlackSandBeach), Thelatter organises dailyhikes upthe h or departs Porto diLevante 10.15am, 11.35am& Porto departs Porto diPonente Porto Gruppo Trekking Vulcano Gruppo Trekking Spiaggia Cannitello Spiaggia transports passengers upand (Donkey Beach); the second, thesecond, (Donkey Beach); faraglioni isthe THEISLANDS••Vulcano Vulcania Tourbus Vulcania . Bothhave a Spiaggia Sabbia Spiaggia juttinginto ( Scaffadi % 339 418 has

the Spiaggia SabbiaNeraisshadedwitheu- the Spiaggia s €58-102,d€116-204; Make a booking andwaitforagroupof10people abooking Make to form. ganises bustoursaroundtheislandinhisred transitFord. ofthisoutfitor- 2hr tourperperson€15)Theproprietor boat trip perperson boat trip €15) is surrounded bygardensand palmsandthe SabbiaNera. Thelargeing theSpiaggia pool island, withabeach-front locationoverlook- 256; diPonente;s €110-140,d€152- .framon-hotels.com; Porto pool. sulphurous water aprivate sports,boattripsandeven is theexcellentfacilities,including tennis, rooms are the real finebutnotfantastic; draw alandscapedgarden. The dotted throughout as diPonente;s€62-88,d€124-176; .com; ViaPorto islands. seven sidehaveon theseaward goodviewsof all have viewsover Those thegardensandsea. village onVulcanello. breezy rooms Bright, one of thesmallerbighotels, 2kmfrom the may prove toopotent for some. proximity diFanghi tothebeach atLaghetto that allcomewithakitchen andaterrace. Its a for supplies and entertainment. There’s acinema,solarium,barandpizzeria calyptus trees andhasatranquilatmosphere. h Ponente;perperson/site€10/15; .campingtogotogo.it; Porto situated aroundtheSpiaggia Sabbia Nera. quiet beaches atGelso. Thebesthotels are to take advantage of themudbaths orthe hereand it’sworthstaying mainlyifyouwant Vulcano’s hotels are mostlyonthelarge side, Sleeping Pino &Giuseppe Gioielli delMare diMare Gente Tours €30. whopping costsa fromPortoLevante for €10.Ataxi passengers atGelso onatour,butdisembark island alsocallinhere andare happytotake passengers fromthepier. Boattours of the perperson€15)Infrontofthe Levante; boattrip tobacconist. Hotel LesSablesNoirs Hotel Eolian Hotel Arcipelago Hotel Torre Hotel Togo Camping Apr-Sep) ) Thisgood-value hotel haslarge rooms h ) Apr-Oct; Apr-Oct; TheEolianoffers smallbungalows Thisdecentcampsite attheendof

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169 AEOLIAN ISLANDS ISLANDS AEOLIAN AEOLIAN ISLANDS Gelso; meals €20-22; Gelso; ern apartment that can sleep fromfourtosix ern apartmentthatcansleep mer, music boomsoutfrom thesoundsystem convenient foradrinkorgelato. Inthesum- ice cream from€1.50) and the portions generous. OK forlunch ordinner. isfriendly Theservice Maurizio, totheportand this placeisclose 125; meals€30-35; the excellent cuttlefish pasta. den hasagoodreputation ontheisland. Try restaurantThis pleasant inanattractive gar- menu€15.50,meals€30-35; tourist island. the the bestatmosphere of anyrestaurant on of dailychanging food isdeliciousandsimple,withacouple chequered tablecloths The andwoodentables. trattoria isastraditionaltheyget, withblue vineyards. first its naturalresources. He alsoplanted the the 19thcenturywithaviewtoexploiting mostofScotsman whobought Vulcanoin wine cellars andyou’llbethankingthe place. But take atippleinJames Stevenson’s Stevenson is,visually,sorelyCantine outof plant of Scottish décorontoaSicilianisland, Levante; pizza€6-8) ferry. the bytheport,asyougetone. It’sright off Don’t leave Vulcanowithoutgetting atleast you and crispybiscuit,it’llsend Fresh, withtheperfect contrastof soft ricotta €1.80) there are acoupleof good picks. Vulcano’s eatingsceneispretty poor,though Eating &Drinking in advance is essential. months. Booking a groupinthelow-season it’s aheavenly valuefor locationandfantastic gorgeous terrace. Ownedbyalovely couple, people, overlooking thelittleportfromits Sep) €600,Aug€1400; 2-bed aptperweekJun&Jul,Sep sunset. at restaurant’s panoramicterrace isfantastic rooms have flower-bedecked balconies.The 170 Cantine Stevenson Cantine o Marraro Nando eCarla o Caffé Piazetta Piazetta Caffé Da Vincenzino Da Maurizio Gelso’s onlyaccommodationisamod- Gelso’s H SAD • Sln THE ISLANDS••Salina This place sells thebest This placesells Trattoria Maniaci Pina Maniaci Trattoria Remigio Ritrovo

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and (Porto diLevante; cannolo (Porto h 339 711 77 95; Gelso; 339 7117795;Gelso;

( secondi JustnearDa % closed Nov-Easter) cannoli Gelso’s only Gelso’s cannoli 090 9852242; . Ithas h ever. crazy. Jun- need need a taxi. others. Thislittleislandisunique:itstwincra- of theAeolian Islandsissodifferent fromthe It’s strikinghow, despite theirproximity, each pop 2300/elev962m SALINA Call buses. €50 per day. costaround anddemand.Cars with season thisvaries cost around€25perdayalthough Provinciale Scooters andViaPortodiLevante. Sprint can berented from on thebeach totheleftof the hydrofoil dock. 4-/8-person perday€60/80). Baia diLevante is pany thatoffers thisservice You canhire boatsontheisland.Onecom- Getting Around details. for p151 theday. See vessels gobothwaysthroughout Milazzo andLipariagoodnumberof Vulcano isanintermediate stopbetween Getting There&Away evenings. the and inJulyAugustthere islive musicin springs) have rendered theisland themost water (Salinaistheonlyisland thathasnatural previous eruptions combinedwithplentyof ‘double’. Despite beingextinct sinceantiquity, its ancientGreek nameof Dydime,meaning thatgaveand shaped bythetwovolcanoes it saline own atmosphere and style. you’ll findanothertwovillages thathave their road aroundtheislandtoMalfa orRinella neighbour.its closest Ifyoutake thewinding port andtown,isworldsawayfromLingua, Marinasize). Santa Salina,theisland’smain it’s incredibly diverse onitsown(andfor Salina isdifferent fromtherest of theislands, tourist bustleof Lipari.And it’s notonlythat and quiettownsare aworldawayfromthe plunge intodramaticbeaches anditsstylish ours cliffs andcoolgreens. coastal Itshigh of vinescarpetingtheislandinvibrantcol- ranks bushesandserried thick yellowgorse Felci) are lushly wooded,withwildflowers, ters (Monte delle deiPorriandMonte Fossa See See p169 of fordetails travel onScaffadi Scooters, bikes cars andsmallmotorised Although itowesitsmodern nametothe Although

( (saltworks) of (saltworks) Lingua,Salinaisdefined % 090 9852208) % ( 3396005750 (24hours) ifyou % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels 090 9822197,3393372795;zodiac Da Paolo at theintersection of Via Youwillfinditinashed (

% Centro Nautico Centro 090 9852112) or 8.30pm Sun) Halfadozencomputers andafast connection. Santa Marina Santa Marina Salina) lonelyplanet.com per hr€6; Salina Computers Post Office Police Farmacia Cucinotta Doctor Emergency Salina –SantaMarina Banco Antoveneta 1.20pm Mon-Sat). –Malfa Banco Antoveneta public phonesatthe island’s ports. theLiparibureau.year, contact Youwillfind Malfa Marina andSanta Salina;therest of the In summertouristbooths operate atRinella, stop atthecornerof the main square. for therest of theislanddepartfrombus port leadstoLingua(see right ), andthebuses Rinella. from inland slightly the northerncoast,andLeni, other mainvillages ontheislandare Malfa, on a fishinghamletonthesouthwestcoast.The will findmostaccommodation,oratRinella, MarinaBoats dockatSanta Salina,where you Orientation tomakegrapes used malvasia wine. capperi fertile inthearchipelago. ThefamousAeolian To the right alongthe To theright Lungomare NotarGiuffre; Marina Salina)Canalsochange Marina money. Information (22km) To Filicudi SALINA The road south from Santa MarinaThe roadsouthfromSanta Salina T YRHENIA ( Campeggio Monte deiPorri % h Tre Pini (capers) growplentifulhere, asdothe (860m) Pollara S EA 090 9843019) ( 10am-2.30pm &6-8.30pmMon-Sat, 6- % Leni 090 984 30 28; Via Risorgimento, Santa 090 9843028;ViaRisorgimento, Valdichiesa (Via Risorgimento, Santa Maria Salina; SantaMaria Risorgimento, (Via THEISLANDS••Salina Rinella ( lungomare; % ( % h Malfa Madonna delTerzito 090 9844005) 090 980 90 53; Via Libertà, 090 9809053;ViaLibertà, Santuario della (Via Provinciale2; (Via 8.40am-1.20pm Mon-Sat)

Felci (962m) Fossa delle has an ATM. Santa Marina (Lighthouse) 0 0 Capo Faro Salina Lingua Capo Faro Lingua Punta h (Via To Panarea To Panarea 1 mile To Lipari 8.40am- (25km) 2 km (20km) (20km) Valdichiesa, thetwo inthevalleyseparating (Sanctuary of theMadonna of Terzito) isat beautiful sight beautiful sight at dusk. and itis this thatgave Salinaits name. It’s a andthe beach,lagoon nearthe lighthouse drying herbshanging outside. There’s a salt blues, withbunches of fresh and tomatoes cubes, painted withwhitewash sky- andlight into thevillage. are Lingua’shouses Aeolian from theendof ViaUmberto,which takes you beach. Its luxurious–afewnotably trattorieand asmall village withsomehotelsmantic seaside –one Marinaride fromSanta Salina,Linguaisaro- Only a3kmwalkalongthemainroadorbus LINGUA sanctuary. the andaskingthedriver at toletyouoff Leni, Marinaa busfromSanta SalinatoRinella or pelago. Youcanget bytaking tothesanctuary have unparalleledviewsof theentire archi- (the last100mare you particularlytough), poison!Onceyou’vemouse reached thetop tomake locallyas soapbutused Calabrians Urginea marittima a plantknownlocallyas flora, includingwildviolets,asparagusand (about two hours). the track(signposted) allthewaytopeak 15 August.Fromthechurch youcanfollow larly aroundtheFeast of theAssumption on Itisaplaceofvolcanoes. pilgrimage, particu- The reserve. delle Felci If you’re feeling energetic, climbthe DELLE FELCI MADONNA DELTERZITO&MONTEFOSSA from which toexplore therest of island. Marina Santa what stabbing). isagreat base pebble beach thepebblesare (though some- the fromthedockingarearight andheadalong MarinaPiazza Santa andtheport.Ifyou turn shops). Itrunsparalleltothe some cafésandafew cubes withroundwindows–designshops, gorgeous Aeolian –varicoloured houses street, ViaRisorgimento, which islinedby bythemain and town.Thetownisbisected MarinaSanta SalinaisSalina’smainport SANTA MARINA SALINA Sights Along the way you’ll see plentyof colourful Along thewayyou’llsee lungomare, (962m) volcanoandvisitthenature lungomare Santuario della Madonna del dellaMadonna Santuario Terzito youcanswimoff thelarge- ), which wassoldtothe street, ViaManzoni, runs alimentari cipudazza lungomare, (grocery (Latin (Latin Fossa 171 off off

AEOLIAN ISLANDS ISLANDS AEOLIAN AEOLIAN ISLANDS tion fromthe Aeolian Islands. tors anideaof of thescaleandeffect emigra- to Monte Fossa delleFelcito Monte Fossa (followthesigns the church, butthebuscomingback will dropped off at thetopof thetown, by (e opposite ). (see pick youupjust below Hotel Scario Punta Jun-Sep) Mon-Fri Museum; crowded. really gets Itnever by destroyedfisherfolk’s houses. island andhasasmallshingle beach, backed row streets. Malfa isthelargest townonthe wonderful hotels are scattered alongitsnar- main roadsnakes downintotownandthe The and itsatmosphere isquietandreserved. thatoverlookson acliff thecrashingwaves, Marina, LinguaandRinella,Malfa isbuilt different the placeforyou.Totally fromSanta read, get pampered andhave aswim,Malfa is gant and/orluxurioushotels, where youcan If you’re after arelaxing timeinstylish, ele- few cultivators of thefamed malvasia wine. tion fromtheSicilianmainland,leaving onlya has suffered greatly atthehandsof competi- tops were covered invines,butlocalindustry give waytovineyards.Acenturyagothehill- plentyof oliveyou’ll see trees thateventually climbing(take thepathtoright), start crops aroundBrigantino,butassoonyou for Brigantino).Cornandbarleyare themain 172 MALFA MALFA You canalsoheadfromLinguabypathup If youcometoMalfa bybus, you’llbe The sample the home-brew andexploresample thehome-brew thevineyards. 13-acre Tasca d’Almeritavineyard.Aside fromitsbeautifullocationandelegantrooms,youcan drunk invery smallglassesandgoeswellwithcheese,sweetbiscuitsalmondpastries. which wouldcaramelisethem. crucial; thegrapesmustdryoutenoughtoconcentrate the sweetflavourbutnottoomuch, when thegrapesare andlaidouttodryonwoven picked canemats. The dryingprocessis the now-rare red Corinthiangrape. generallyoccursinthesecondweekofSeptember The harvest derived fromMonenvasìa,aGreekin 588BC,andthenameiscertainly city. their ownstyleofwine,malvasia. ItisthoughtthattheGreeks broughtthegrapestoislands greenery.the result The ofwhichisthestartling islandershave putthistogooduse,producing isitsfreshwaterSalina’s fortune springs. ItistheonlyAeolian islandwithnaturalwater sources, A TASTE OFHONEY 30; www.capofaro.it; ViaFaro d€190-290; 3,Malfa; H SAD • Sln THE ISLANDS••Salina To experience a working vineyardyoucanstayattheluxurious To experienceaworking The result isadarkgoldenorlightamberwinewhichtastes, somesay,ofhoney.Itisusually The wineisstillproducedaccordingtotraditionaltechniques usingthemalvasiagrapeand Museo dell’EmigrazioneEoliana Museo % 090 9844372;admissionfree; inPalazzo Marchetti gives visi- h

(Emigration 9am-1pm a ) , a small resort ofAeolian-style, asmallresort cottagesonthe down tothetinyport.Fromthere, asmall village. Pollara it’squiteto thebeach. ahike Otherwise from Pollara village, where thesteps take youdown coming here bybus,get atthestopbefore off beach isin shadowinthemorning).Ifyou’re (visitintheafternoonlutely asthe unbeatable with itsbackdropof isabso- volcaniccliffs climb downisquite trickybutthebeach itself formuch ofsetting thefilm Don’t miss atriptothebeach atPollara, the POLLARA &RINELLA islands. If youfeel adventurous youcantake nature hikes onSalinaaswellthe other Filicudi incltent&sleepingbag€75) perperson1-day €20,3-dayto summer;hike harbour during .eolieadventure.com; information standatSantaMarina EolieAdventure Activities hydrofoils fromSanta Marina Salina. thebustoget here,use ortake oneof the the otherbig(large-pebble) beach. Youcan 20 minutes alongthepaved sea-view path to Pini campsite orwalkpastthecampsite for Treto therockyspotnearCampeggio beach gets toocramped,youcanalwaysgo tion askatthetouristbooths). Ifthesandy under water spearfishing spot(forinforma- huddledtogether.houses Rinellaisapopular pinks,pearlywhites with salmon andsea-blue descended. The village isapicture of beauty, village clambers hillsyoujust upthesame side, andabove thebeach theminiature grinofblack-sand abeach extends tothe The roadtoRinellaspiralsalltheway

( % Capo Faro 090 9844134,3334699530;www organises excellent

( lonelyplanet.com % Il Postino 090 98443 . The Marina; meals€25-30; Marina; Salina remains relatively undisturbedbymass SANTA MARINA SALINA Sleeping &Eating crossing a lava trail. the wonderfulhike toFilicudi,which involves Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels apartments in a nearby house. Its restaurantapartments inanearbyhouse. has10simpleroomsandsome A Cannata 1; r perperson€50) A Cannata LINGUA restaurant. excellent spaghetti alfuoco race overlooking andtuckintothe thesea arefast –thecroissants freshly baked. Youcanalsopopinheredesserts. forbreak- kled withparsley, andheartychocolate cake such squid,grilledswordfishsprin- asstuffed food fantastic while theattentive waiters serve Sit atoneof alfresco, tables theelegantlyset this smallplaceattheendof ViaRisorgimento. 6;meals€25) Risorgimento the food is great. in regardedhighly restaurant featured hasbeen walk northforafew hundred metres. Its Risorgimento (thenarrowmainstreet) and Santina oneof thefavourites. Head forVia tiled floors andgreat viewsmake Mamma family atmosphere, colourfulroomswith .mammasantina.it; ViaSanità 40;d€110-210; is perfect forrelaxing in the evening. some have viewsof Thelovely thesea. terrace The roomshave bedsand goodwrought-iron wallsandminimalistdécor.style of curving building, decorated inthetypicalAeolian Salina’s hotels, thisisagorgeous white cubic a 9;d€100-180; .hotelmercantidimare.it; Piazza SantaMarina star facilities. andthree-has panoramicviewsof thesea 8; s€70-110,d€90-190; you are notaguestbymaking a reservation. hotels itispossibletoeatinthemif although majority of restaurants are located inthese accommodation inafew smallhotels. The tourism, generally offering onlyupmarket Portobello o thechoiceThough of restaurants islimited, diMare Mercanti Hotel Pensione Mamma Santina Pensione Mamma Bellavista Hotel Cucina Italiana ) Anewoutfitthatfollowsthestylishlineof

( % Cucinotta Rita Cucinotta

090 984 31 61; www.acannata.it; Via Umberto 090 9843161;www.acannata.it; ViaUmberto ( % Situated onawild,green bluff,

090 9843125;ViaBianchi1;Santa ( % h (fiery spaghetti) inthis (fieryspaghetti) . h Salina’sbestrestaurant is 090 984 30 09; Via Risorgimento 090 9843009;ViaRisorgimento Tue-Sun) Apr-Sep; Apr-Sep;

( ( % %

( % Sitontheter- 090 9843536;www THEISLANDS••Salina 090 9843523;Via 090 9843054;www a ) This hotel as A ) Surrounded byvineyardsoverlooking the .hotelsignum.it; ViaScalo15;d€110-240; views straight out to views straight smoking Stromboli. swimming poolwith itsinvisibleedge and tiques. Therooms cluster around thestunning andtheinterior isdecoratedhouses with an- ofThe buildingisaseries interlinking Aeolian theSignumis thebesthotel onSalina. sea, Stromboli fromitsmassive rooftop terrace. looking andwithgreat and viewsof thesea Malfa hotel, Scarioissimple,good- thePunta scario.it; ViaScalo8;d€100-150; evening. early many nonguestscomeforaperitiviinthe tion isbestappreciated fromthebar,where stills covering posi- awallineach. Theclifftop bedspreads andlarge black-and-white film interiors are ablindingwhite withvibrant areaszanine sleeping andkitchenettes. The apartments withoneandtwobedrooms,mez- A white complex consistingof ten furnished .santaisabel.it; ViaScalo12;d€90-235; o MALFA wonderful additionto the village. bustle of theotherrestaurants andcafés.A lagoonandistuckedthe salt away fromthe an individualoverhanging Itoverlooks light. with alarge terrace where each islitby table ner). Thisisasimpleandelegantrestaurant ‘Da Alfredo’ onViaManzoni, aroundthecor- Alfredo, Lingua’smasterly meals €25-30) swims are ifyou essential here.stay nexttothelargeright pebblebeach –sunset and stylish, each withitsownlittleterrace. It’s pastel colours.light Theroomsare luxurious –are carefullyhas been painted preserved in traditionalAeolian –whose the houses style hibiscus. Thehotel isquietandrelaxing and in thefragrantgardensfullof jasmineand ings, allof which are connected bylittlepaths is dividedintofive low,cubicAeolian build- verted complex,Borgo oldsaltworks diMare 200; s€120-200,d€150- ViaManzoni; 41; www.lasalinahotel.com; tobookinadvance advised in summer. earth approach (meals€25to€30).You’dbe withasimple,down-to- on fish andseafood, has aSlowFoodrecommendation andfocuses o PuntaScario Hotel o Da Alfredo inCucina Da Alfredo a ) Astunningnewhotel builtinthecon- Hotel SantaIsabel Hotel La Salina Borgo diMare La SalinaBorgo Hotel Signum Hotel Anewoutfitrunbythesonof

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( % % ( 090 9844139;www.punta

a % 090 9843307;ViaPantano; ( % Anothergorgeous ) 090 9844222;www granita 090 9844018;www h

( % Apr-Oct; Apr-Oct; maker (of 090 98424 as 173 a

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AEOLIAN ISLANDS ISLANDS AEOLIAN AEOLIAN ISLANDS Santa MarinaSanta SalinatoLingua(€1.30), Malfa 984 3078; bours as does bours asdoes tween Santa Marina Santa tween Salinaand Rinella. Boats ( island, it’sagoodidea), check out ness of theroad fromhere to the rest of the like hiring ascooter inRinella(given thesteep- Salina;perdayaround€25) 240, SantaMarina Antonio Bongiorno on their particular routes. where convene andtake thebuses passengers Marina Salina, you’ll have tochange atMalfa, you’re goingtoRinellaorPollarafromSanta posted at the portsandaroundisland.If Valdichiesa (€1.85).Timetables andLeni are (€1.30), Rinella(€1.85),Pollara Regular Getting Around p148. see on arrivalsanddepartures fromMilazzo, % times. other isreduced at one hour,five daily).Service 25 minutes, five daily)andStromboli(€11.80, including to/fromPanarea30 September, (€6, and fourdailyfromRinella1Juneto MarinaSanta Salinaandtheotherislands hydrofoil connectionsperdaybetween Salina andRinella. There are atleasteight Marina Santa Hydrofoils andferries service Getting There&Away half/full board in summer. has abarandrestaurant andgooddealson onthissideofsun sets theisland.L’Ariana to beformalvasia-sippingsundowners asthe lovely littlehotel. Itshuge terrace istheplace forthis atRinellaisthesetting looking thesea .it; ViaRotabile11;d€80-210) August. and recommendedMarina. inJuly Reservations about 100m),orbyregular fromSanta buses hydrofoil (walkupandleftfromtheportfor Youcangetlook thesea. here byferry or good amenitiesandtheterraced sites over- h pertent/person€7.70/8; .com inItalian;FrazioneRinella-Leni; Pini Tre Campeggio RINELLA 174 % Ask atthetouristoffice forhydrofoils be- Hotel L’Ariana Hotel Motorcycles andscooters canbehired from Siremar 090 9809170) May-Sep) 090 9809203;perdayfrom €18) H SAD • Pnra THE ISLANDS••Panarea Rinella Citis

( Theisland’sonlycampsite has Santa MarinaSalina

% ( % Ustica Lines hasticket booths atthehar-

( 090 9809233) %

090 9844150) ( %

( % 090 9809075;www.hotelariana 090 984 34 09; Via Risorgimento 090 9843409;ViaRisorgimento Apatricianvillaover- 090 9809155;www.trepini

( Santa MarinaSalina % . Forinformation at the port. buses runfrom buses 090 9843004; . Ifyoufeel Eolian Service % Rinella 090

up past Piero’s?’) fellow fromTurinwhoownsthefancyvilla their placeof origin.(‘Oh,youmeanthat even the byname,and else knowseveryone everyone macy of theplacemakes – themunnecessary Addresses here are approximate astheinti- lanesandpretty houses. tangled seafront as theyhave allmerged intoonestripof hardly noticethedifference them between you’llSan PietroandDrauto,although one of thethree formerhamletsof Ditella, sively ontheeastern sideof theisland,in The island’spopulationlives almostexclu- Orientation &Information at San Pietro. tiny harbourwhileflocksof day-trippers dock Insummerluxuryyachts fillthe Hotel Raya. whocomeherejet set foronereason only– pensive, itispopularwiththeinternational style whitewashed Exclusive andex- houses. feels more like aGreek islandwithitsadobe- Tiny Panarea is3kmlongand2kmwide and pop 320/elev421m PANAREA Marina). Santa Nautica Levante are available forhire fromJunetoAugustat Eoliano on Lipari ( p153 ). are Archeologico ondisplayintheMuseo and theCretans. The artefacts found here that there were theislanders tiesbetween influences, lending credence tothetheory found atthesite showsdistinctlyMinoan while pottery back asthe14thcenturyBC, that theheadlandhere wasinhabited asfar which wasdiscovered in1948.Itis reckoned the minute walkpastacoupleof beaches, tosee Head abouta30- Milazzese, southtoPunta AROUND THEISLAND Sights &Activities .it (in Italian). A goodonlineresource iswww.amapanarea ( % 48; ViaIditella) phones. public plusanATMexpensive season), inhigh and also findmostof theaccommodation (very % There isapharmacy, All boatsdockatSanPietro,where you’ll 090 983040.Youcanonlycallthe 090 983181) Bronze Age village Age Bronze forestieri , andinamedicalemergency call between JuneandSeptember. between

( Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels % (outsiders) are knownby 090 984 30 83; Via Risorgimento, 090 9843083;ViaRisorgimento, , madeupof 23huts, Sparacino ( % 090 9831 police

is given over tothecultivationof capers. At a track–justfollowthesignpostsfor beach istothenorthof Ditella, attheend of aquamarine.water Theisland’sother adeep cove where theswimmingisexcellentand leads downtothe Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels opened just after WWII. TheRodàislocated in €180-290) an excellent restaurant. also agorgeous swimmingpoolterrace and areBay, fullof furnishings. There’s rattan viewsofrooms, allwithspectacular Caletta tranquil accommodation.Cooland elegant Piazzaoffersof exclusive theisland,La and bougainvillea andsituated ontheeastern side Via SanPietro; s€115-265,d€155-325; ably andtheprices drop dramatically. quietens everything consider-of season high expensive nightmare inJulyandAugust.Out Finding accommodationonPanarea canbean Sleeping &Eating south of Dattilo. the 19thcentury.Thelastislet, the wreck of in anoldEnglish shipthatsank a depthof perhaps 40mor50m,youwillfind around thesharppointof theisland. Here, at leftpastthebeachProceed andcontinue white beach onLiscaBianca’ssouthernside. Lisca Bianca,youwillnoticethere isasmall ally nothingmore thanaprotrudingrock)to row channel fromtheisletof Pietro, Panarea) Contact hunting ifyou’re equippedwithscubagear. can indulge inyourownlittlespotof wreck- Lisca Bianca islands southof Dattilo,youshould make for pretty littlebeach called impressive wreck of a Roman ship. the backof theisland,visiblefrom land,isthe island, be reached byboat(see opposite ). Thelargest tiny isletsoff theeastern shore, which canonly Panarea’s ownlittlearchipelago consistsof five OFFSHORE of mobilephones is incessant. July andAugust,of whentheringing course, and aperfect placeforaquietswim,exceptin Fumarola From the Punta Milazzese a set of aset steps Milazzese From thePunta Pensione Rodà Hotel LaPiazza Hotel Nearest toPanarea is Basiluzzo The first ontheisland boarding house . The ‘Stone Beach’ here isisolated . The‘StoneBeach’ Amphibia , theonefurthestaway,where you tohire gear. Crossingthenar- , isalsothefurthestawayand

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% ( % ( % Cala Junco Cala 090 983154;www.hotelpiazza.it; 090 983212;ViaSanPietro; d 090 983311;ViaIditella,San Le Guglie Dattilo , abeautifullittle THEISLANDS••Panarea as Bottaro , which hasa Lisca Nera . Ofthethree Drapedin ) Spiaggia Spiaggia (actu- , lies €30-35) looking thedock.Tryspeciality 09) boat rentals, towooden fromrubberdinghies ( tohireyou’ll need aboat. per daySep-Jul/Aug about €26/36; Angela You canpickoneupattheport,orcall of transportisgolfcarts(theisland’staxis). to get aroundonfoot.Thepreferred mode themastheisland issmallenough don’t need areCars notallowedonPanarea, butyou Getting Around Pietro. San ( hours, onedaily)tothewest.Both Lipari andMilazzo)Filicudi(€18.10,1½ daily) tothenortheast,andSalina(andon land withStromboli(€7.50,30minutes, five In summerhydrofoils andferries linktheis- Getting There&Away rooms (doubles €120). summer theyalsorent outsomeinexpensive con lecozze nitely worth a try. andisdefi- It attractsagoodcrowdinseason covered terrace atthisfamily-runrestaurant. spilloutontoalargefrom theharbour,tables meals €30; over the islands. Its disco(openJulytoAugust)isknownall them(meals€35to€40). toreserve you need areoil lampsandtables insuch demandthat dinersthe evening eatbytheintimate of light sunbathing terrace withviewsof Stromboli.In roomhasitsown understated luxury.Each ispure theRaya climbing uptheseashore, Panarea. Acomplexof whitewashed villas San Pietro; d€320-480; may findithard to leave. terrace andagreat Arabia-themedbar,you views,a Withwhitewashed walls,sea season. Bianca’s pricesdropbyover 50%inthelow of theloveliest onPanarea, placestostay Lisca Lani 1;dwith/withoutseaview€310/280; andhasa setting welcoming atmosphere. the centre of garden theislandamidapleasant % % To explore theislands,coves andbeaches have alongtheharbouronVia offices Trattoria daPina Trattoria Raya Hotel Da Francesco Lisca Bianca 090 983033;ViaSanPietro) 090 983007) Agood-value terrace restaurant over- ( % h 3333138610; one-way fare perperson€4, rental 3333138610; one-way 12.30-3.30pm &8.30-11pmTue-Sat)

(spaghetti with mussels). In with mussels). (spaghetti

( ( % % ( and % 090 983013;www.hotelraya.it; Via 090 983004;www.liscabianca.it; Via as

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AEOLIAN ISLANDS ISLANDS AEOLIAN AEOLIAN ISLANDS and Scari). Accommodation isashort walk by thevillages of SanVincenzo San Bartolo, downhill fromthe Stromboli‘town’(formed Boats arrive atPortoScari/SanVincenzo, of the week. dozens of visitors uptothecrater night every climbing guidesandtrekking agents whotake viding alivelihood forthe localmountaineers, can potentially endanger lives, pro- it’sbeen matter. Yet, despite thefactthatvolcano living underthisfierygiantisnotalaughing it reminds thelocalsandvisitors alike that 2007, wasquite harmless aseruptionsgo,but cano yet.Itsmostrecent eruption,inFebruary It’s thatkindof place. Pure magic. isonlyaccessiblebysea. around 30houses) the island,sotinyvillage of Ginostra (of over toStromboli.There are noroadsacross a bitwild,noboats,ferries orhydrofoils head should theweatherrough And the mainland,sowater saving isessential. infrom water isbrought situation –potable for the island’swater goes torch). The same main streets andthechurch square (bringa exceptinacoupleofno streetlights atnight, it’s powered bymassive generators –hence haveThe towndoesn’t ‘proper’electricity– infrastructureisland whose isasfragileever. matter of romanticillusions,itisinfactan ful andshroudedin Mediterranean gardens. allofhouses, which are breathtakingly beauti- volcano are incontrasttothegleamingwhite andtheblack,towering with excellentsand) the blacksoil,beaches (somevery good, land isauniquepicture amongtheAeolians – Gabbana have aholidayhomehere). Theis- who cometoholidayonStromboli(Dolce& (andEurope’s)socialeliteits appealtoItaly’s volcano. Itsrelative isolationisalarge partof place inEuropetohave apermanentlyactive most captivating,largely itistheonly because isolated of theAeolian Islands,butalsothe out of thetop.Thisisfurthestandmost cano: acone-shapedthingwithsmoke coming conforms toone’schildhood ideasof avol- strangely Strombolifromadistance Seeing pop 400/elev924m STROMBOLI pay around€52forhalf a day. longboats withoutboardmotors. to Expect 176 Orientation Stromboli’s sense of isolationisn’tjusta Stromboli’s sense And wehaven’t mentionedthatlively vol- H SAD • Srmoi THE ISLANDS••Stromboli en up and the sea go en upandthesea Emanuele; use itspainfully slow computer. h (tickets €5)inits (tickets little garden. foreign-language andopen-airfilmscreenings offerings 5.30-7pm Sat)Alovelylittlebookshopwithsomeliterary, Emanuele; torio Emanuele) La Libreria sull’Isola La Libreria BOOKSHOPS Information details). for the roadalongwaterfront (see opposite forthecrater, follow plan toheadstraight up theScaloScaritoViaRomaor,ifyou te port. the approach toPiazzaSan Vincenzofrom You’ll findanATM onViaRoma,the MONEY Farmacia Simone MEDICAL SERVICES Trekking Totem andCD-burning and printing facilities. 7pm Sat;perhr€6)Twocomputerswithafastconnection sull’Isola La Libreria ACCESSINTERNET Police Doctor Emergency EMERGENCY walk up Via Roma. STROMBOLI (20km) Panarea To 10am-1pm &4-8pm)Climbingshopthatwilllet you Ginostra ( % h 090 98 60 21; Via Roma) On the left asyou 090 986021;ViaRoma)Ontheleft Sc Punta Labronzo i ar 10.30am-1pm & 5.30-7pm Mon-Fri, 5.30- 10.30am-1pm &5.30-7pmMon-Fri, a Stromboli h Frontone

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T Y R R H E N I A N lonelyplanet.com Via Roma San Vincenzo Chiesa di Vecchia Forgia

S E A Strombolicchio Ficogrande Scari This travel agency near the port hasexchange This travelagencyneartheport facilities. Post Office POST Le IsoleeTerme d’Italia lonelyplanet.com mini tsunami, causingdamage toStromboli and theDecember 2002eruptionproduceda showered thetownof Ginostra withrocks, safe. that,theeruptionsinApril2003 Before the eastandGinostra tothesouthquite (Trail of Fire), leaving Strombolitownto flow isconfinedtotheSciaradel Fuoco the western flankof thevolcano. Thelava in thelasteruption,andlava descended on thesummit.Noreal damage wasendured 27 February 2007, openingtwonewcraters Stromboliana model, hascometoincludetheterm language, thiskindof taking activityasa descent lava intotheair. Technical volcano launches showersmost constantly of incan- bottle, itisfullof which gases, iswhyital- 40,000 years agoand,like achampagne The Strombolicrater wasformedonly THE VOLCANO ther alongthe northern coast. are coves littlesandy tobediscovered fur- beneath themainhotels isideal,whilethere islands –themassive stretch of blacksand film worldforalong time thereafter. ofa marriedman–which wasthetalk the provoked was bytheirliaison–Rossellini willbefamiliarwiththescandal Film buffs during thefilmingof lived andRoberto Rossellini Ingrid Bergman hotel,the Barbablù isa from right Emanuele), acoupleof doors down onthe Via Roma,which thenbecomesViaVittorio of churches. Justoutsidethetown(follow hereThere otherthanacouple islittle tosee Sights &Activities InformationCentre Vulcanalogical TOURIST INFORMATION 1.20pm Mon-Sat) in the afternoon. It is well worth Itiswellworth in theafternoon. a visit. Avideo(inItalian)isusuallyshown oftheport. the right information centre dedicated tothevolcanois150m h Stromboli’s The mostrecent eruptionstookplaceon 10.30am-1pm &5-7.30pm)Thisveryinteresting ( % Chiesa di San Vincenzo Chiesa diSanVincenzo (Strombolian activity). 090 986027;ViaRoma; beaches THEISLANDS••Stromboli ( are thebest onallthe % Stromboli pink-red house pink-red 090 986274;ViaRoma) (Porto Scari; Scari; (Porto h butbefore in1949. 8.20am- where attività Piazza San Vincenzo 4; climb kit €14.50) Piazza SanVincenzo4;climb kit are dramatically visible. the lividrednight Sciara andexplodingcone into theair. Itisincredibly exciting.Onastill forcethe magma a loudbelly-roar as gases 20minutesevery orsoandare preceded by Theexplosions usuallyoccur walking atnight. on yourown,butdobringatorch ifyou’re at thecrater. You’re allowedtogothe Sciara views of the go upto400m,fromwhere youget fabulous when lotsof dustgets blown around. especiallyforthewaydown lenses, contact onandnot togoupwithyourspectacles need numbers, there’s plentytogoaround.You’ll andthankstothelimitedtained), climbing equipment(which iswellmain- necessary want toclimb. not ifyouhaven’t gotanyof andstill those a goodsupplyof water andsomefood.Worry wet weather,achange of T-shirt, atorch and andclothingforcold proper walkingshoes for the sunset!). keep upandfinditenjoyable (andget there have tohave areasonable of level fitness to is notmassively you’ll demanding,though normally arrivingaround10.30pm.Theclimb hours toget downtoPiazzaSanVincenzo, the descent.Itisestimated totake abouttwo resting, eatinganddrinking),before starting spend about40minutes onthetop(usually front of you,ismagnificent.You’re allowedto withtheflaminggutof thevolcanoin the sea, of Thesight the sundippinginto for sunset. your trek up,reaching thepeakjustintime depending onthetimeof theyear,andstart 4.30and5.30pm, yourguidebetween meet tion periodlimited climbsto400m.You’ll up tothecrater, after thepost2002/03erup- and thelimitis20people per guide. inAugust), but allowingacoupleisadvisable book inadvance(adaybefore isusuallyfine, of peopleallowedtogoupinaday. Youmust and local authoritieshave limited thenumber attempt toclimbthevolcanowithoutaguide, number about 400. andleft.Permanenttook fright residents now the massive eruptionof 1930,whenmost island tovisitors fora few months. town, injuringsixpeopleandclosingthe If youdon’tfancygoingalltheway, can To undertake theclimbyouwillneed It isonceagainpossibletogoalltheway Recent crater activityhasmadeitillegalto Some 5000peoplelived ontheislanduntil Sciara delFuoco Totem Trekking Totem andtheexplosions hires outallthe

( % 090 9865752;

177 AEOLIAN ISLANDS ISLANDS AEOLIAN AEOLIAN ISLANDS together anynumberof tailor-made treks t climb. to to make abooking adaybefore you want 20 peopletothe crater. the office Contact mation office. Guidestake groupsof upto Via Pola1; is do the climb. tobooktheday beforeYou need you wantto take groupsof upto20people tothecrater. andFrench,speaking English,German will guides, for individualgroups.Experienced Emanuele;excursionperperson€28) Vittorio Magmatrek activity, check www.volcanolive.com. here. starts of thevolcano. Theascenttothesummit tory, followthesigns),which hasgoodviews the alongthewaterfrontroad leadingright to 178 Guides AGAI Down thesteps fromPiazzaleSanVincenzo For up-to-date informationonvolcanic The stilllessambitiouscanfollowthe DID YOUKNOW?

Osservatorio diPuntaLabronzo Osservatorio The pinnacleofrockknownasStrombolicchio,whichcanbeseenjustoffthecoastnear The 2007eruptionopenedtwonewcraters onthesummit. The 2003eruptionsincreased thecrater size from35mto125m. The ofthevolcano. landslidecausedthecrater thenormalactivity tocollapseandblocked The 2003state ofemergency wascausedbyanunderwater landslideontheSciaradelFuoco The SciaradelFuoco depression descends700mbelowsealevel, althoughthedebrisfrom The word‘sciara’comesfromtheArabic traderoutes intheTyrrhenianSea,asit overlooks Stromboliwasusedtocontrolimportant The islandhasbeeninhabited sinceNeolithictimesbutthevolcanohasnever destroyed There are usuallytwomajorexplosions peryear. Stromboli istheyoungestvolcanoinAeolian archipelago. H SAD • Srmoi THE ISLANDS••Stromboli bomb. The asmall subsequentbuild-upofgasesandmagmafinallyexplodedinJuly2003like of theolderhouses,builtataheight10m,were affected). that causeda7m-hightidalwave tolandonStrombolitown,damaging manyhouses(none the volcanodescendstoadepthof2200m. a ‘Street ofFire’. its explodingcrater, itwasknownasthe‘LighthouseofMediterranean’. the otherAeolian Islands,theItalianmainlandandStraitsofMessina. Becauseofthisand Stromboli town. is whatleftofthecentralcylinder(theneck)volcano,inwhichlavasolidified. Ficogrande, istheremnants oftheoriginal volcanothatcollapsedintothesea. Strombolicchio

(Associazione GuideAlpineItaliane; h

( % Apr-Oct) 090 986 57 68; www.magmatrek.it; Via 090 9865768;www.magmatrek.it; , thevolcano’sown infor- (theobserva-

% canput 090 986263; sharia (meaning‘street’), thustheSciaradelFuoco is run a greengrocer, La Pergolarun agreengrocer, La isin afantastic place operated by an oldercouplewho also .it; ViaRoma;d&trperperson from€25) Although Although BOAT TOURS&DIVING range alternatives. but there are alsosomegoodbudget andmid- Most accommodationonStromboli ispricey, Sleeping Strombolicchio. at (€20, five hours) takes insome swimming of othertours; acircuitaroundtheisland from theport.Youcanalsoenjoyanumber (€15perperson). Bothleavethe sea at10pm 2½-hour ganderattheSciaradelFuocofrom Scari) Porto Antonio Cacetta Navigazione Pippo cano fromthesafety of aboat,contact at Ficograndetoswim and sunbathe. to thebeach of rocksandblackvolcanic sand courses, alternatively youcanmake yourway 33) 60 25;LaSirenetta Hotel,ViaMarina Casa LaPergola Casa If youwantamore gentle viewof thevol- . Bothcompaniestake visitors fora La Sirenetta DivingCenter La Sirenetta ( % Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels

(

% ( % 090 986023;VicoSalina10,near 090 986127;www.casalapergola 090 986135;ViaRoma47) Agreat budget offers diving

( % Società 090 98 or new complex with great self-catering rooms new complexwithgreat self-catering dm/d perperson€25/30) a goodshared terrace. No breakfast. figurines andancientwardrobes. There’s also while theolderonesfeature scaryCatholic central location.Thenewerroomsare simple, Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotel fr breakfast. for as theday’s gossip,and it’s thebestplace come here forsundowners and pizzaaswell Ingrid istheheart of Stromboli.Trekkers views allaround fromitsterrace, Ritrovo diSanVincenzo, Chiesa p177 ) withscenic Piazza SanVincenzo(alsothelocation of the 3am Jul&Aug) from€1, pizza€8; &cakes pastries Ingrid Ritrovo Eating on theterrace lookingoutat the volcano. onsilverglasses traysandantiquetiles.Eat with silkcoverlets, painted ceilings,water but alsohassomefabulouslyeccentricrooms only oneof thebestrestaurants ontheisland, of theword.Itisnot is aninninthetruesense 210; Emanuele17-19;d€120- 18; www.barbablu.it;ViaVittorio as a diving centre. are andthehotel comfortable iswellknown floor-to-ceiling posters of –therooms sunsets thedécorisratherdatedAlthough –think at Ficograndeinfrontof Strombolicchio. This hotel isperfectly sited onthebeach 33;s€90-140,d€100-150; Via Marina fronts the rooms. ern’ design.Anexpansive communalterrace heavy woodenfurniture ‘east- andaslightly big bathrooms,well-equippedkitchenettes, (breakfast includedintheprice)thathave residence.it; ViaNunziante;d€80-120,apt€180-300; 1.30pm and 4.30pm’ landlady. breakfast, andasurly,‘donotdisturbbetween reasonable rooms,alovely roof terrace for 27; d&trperpersonfrom€35) from (dark) walkatnight the centre. it’sabitofderfully peacefulplace,though a by bougainvilleaandbroom,thisisawon- new en-suite doublesandtriples.Surrounded fourtosixpeople. There’ssleeping alsoafew offers five cottages thatare asdorms, used before youreach delSole Ficogrande,Casa o Sirenetta Hotel Pedra Residence La Lampara delSole Casa h Mar-Oct) La LocandadelBarbablù Situated pointof atthehigh Thisdusky-pinkAeolian house

( ( % %

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( 090 98 64 09; Via Vittorio Emmanuele 090 986409;ViaVittorio 090 986385;Piazza SanVincenzo; % Off theroadtovolcano, Off

090 986017;ViaSoldatoCincotta; ( % 090 986025;www.sirenetta.it; 090 986413;www.pedra AnewB&Bwith h THEISLANDS••Stromboli h 8am-midnight, 8am- Apr-Oct; Apr-Oct;

( % 090 9861 as a A )

) where youcanget snacks, andthere light isa ful views. (see left ) isanother goodchoice withbeauti- here. dine desires. Youwillhave tobookifyouwant to la carte) thatchanges according tothechef’s menu(noà onlyatasting restaurant, serving €45; Emanuele17; tastingmenuperperson .barbablu.it; ViaVittorio terrace. bar and abitof dancinghappenafter duskonthe upmarket menuandcrowd. isadifferent ballgame,withan affair evening kilo) thatshouldn’tcostyouover €15.The lunchbuffet of fishandvegetables (€30per from itsterrace. Duringthedayithasagood It’s allof plusithasgreat views those, sea Tartana:La orrestaurant. asabar,semi-disco meals €35) at theendof the lane. small lanetoyourleft.Therestaurant isright asignpointingdown the portyouwillsee moderntwist.Asa slightly youwalkup from the day’smenu.Thefoodistraditionalwith givebarefoot youthelowdownon waitstaff andthefriendly Ship thetables, lampslight asthediningarea. terrace serves whose house isatastefullylocals, AiGechi outfitted Aeolian favourite withthe lent placethat’sadeserved meals€30-35; Scari; vegetables. grilled Strombolicchio. Great fish andlotsof lovely volcano, hasaterrace overlooking and thesea ing awayfromthenorthernporttowards €25-30) good pizza too. andthere fishandseafood, issomepasta, activity asyoueat.Thefoodistraditional unique opportunitytowatch thevolcano’s slope of thevolcano,thisiswhere youget the around €25) Barbablù. beyond for itsrelaxed atmosphere. Youwillfindit culence. Thisplaceismuch loved byfamilies baked inaluminiumfoilforextrasuc- seafood terrace withgreat pizzasandsomedecent 27; pizza€8-10; There are a coupleof bars attheport, The terrace restaurant atHotel Sirenetta La LocandadelBarbablù La Tartana o Punta Lena La Lampara L’Osservatorio h Punta Lena, onthe Lena, Punta 7-11.30pm) It’shardtotell howtorecommend About 20minutes’ walkupthelower Ai Gechi Ai Gechi

( ( % ( % %

6pm-late) h (Observatory; (Observatory; By fartheisland’sfanciest ( 090 98 60 25; Via Marina; à la carte àlacarte 090 986025;ViaMarina; 090 98 64 09; Via Vittorio Emanuele 090 986409;ViaVittorio % 090 98 62 04; Via Marina 8;meals 090 986204;ViaMarina 6.30-11pm, Tue-Sun) 090 98 62 13; Vico Salina 12, Porto 090 986213;VicoSalina12,Porto Anoisy,vine-draped

( % % lungomare Aperitivi, 090 986118;www 090 986360;meals Anexcel- cocktails cocktails walk-

179 AEOLIAN ISLANDS ISLANDS AEOLIAN AEOLIAN ISLANDS disrupted or cancelled altogether. isoften winter orinbadweathertheservice Villa La Rosa), theroad forks.Youcan go Rosa), Villa La and Canna about 10minutes (justpastLa find thepathto centre of theisland.After rocks orrent a boat. you’ll have toclamberdown somejagged island –ifyouwanttotake adipelsewhere, that offersaffair theeasiestswimmingon scend toFilicudi’sonlyreal hundred years. Fromthevillage you cande- predate Panarea’s bya few Milazzese Punta 1952, asmattering of BronzeAge hutsthat the Grazianoand southtowardsCapo road goes willdefinitely fade.disappointment Themain Once you’ve moved onfromtheport, the Post Office Police Pharmacy Doctor Emergency Information including a general store. Most of theisland’slimited facilitiesare here, concrete andonelarge houses resort hotel. a beautifulislanditis.Thearea isahuddleof Filicudi’s portgives noreal indicationof what at Disembarking waters grottoes. anddeep tiest of theAeolian Islands,withcrystal-clear Filicudi isarguably thewildestandpret- pop 300/elev774m FILICUDI it after about 300m. port followtheroadtoyourleft;youwillfind ( to hire scooters from €5and€10pertrip.Itispossible between itrandomlychargespack). However, you when youarrive (ifyoudon’thave aback- totransportluggage thatisuseful service and Ticket for offices from Liparior1½totwohours byhydrofoil. It takes fourhours byferry toreach theisland Getting There&Around Tartana isyour best bet. supermarket onViaRoma. fun,La Fornight 180 h Sights &Activities % Sirocco At the port, via a set ofAt theport,viaa set steps, steep you’ll 9am-1pm Mon-Fri) 090 98 62 12; Via Marina; perday€20) 090 986212;ViaMarina; prehistoric village prehistoric Siremar H SAD • Flcd THE ISLANDS••Filicudi ( %

( ( 090 9889942;ContradaPecorini) ( % % %

( % 090 9889077) 3355219446) 090 9889053;ContradaPecorini; 090 986016) ( % Ustica Lines 090 9889913) ( h runsanelectriccart Motonautica Mandarano 24hr) are attheport.In , discovered in

( beach % . Fromthe 090 986003) , astony

phenicusa.com; Via Porto; rperpersonhill/seaviewsfrom phenicusa.com; ViaPorto; impressive thatisperhapstheAeolians’71m high most Canna waters. Tothenorthwestis reflectionsunlight’s intheclearturquoise bythe shows caused the mostluminouslight oneof pooned inthe1960s,butyouwillsee asthelastonewashar-any now,though, thatoncelived here.the seals Youwon’tsee is 37mlongby30mwide,andnamedafter Marino (Perciato Point)andthenearby land isthenaturalarch of the call you can’tfindanyonetohelpattheport, foratwo-hourtrip. If season during thehigh who rents boatsoutforaround€20perperson boat. There’s usuallysomeonearoundtheport in the water. heretaurants (see below ) andyoucanswim around achurch. There are acoupleof res- than acluster of one-storey huddled houses hamlet of way downviathedonkey pathtothelittle leads south(left)attheforkandmake your village isthepeakof the a pretty church onahillsideterrace. Above the to north (right) La Rosa, aprivate residence Rosa, that rentsLa out atthejunction of isVilla Canna ViaRosa Italian; ViaRosa;d€100-160) mended hotel. Reservations are advised. homemade cookingmake recom- thisahighly nificent panoramicviewsandsomewonderful vate Minimalistwhite paradise. rooms,mag- appears like Canna apri- port) theHotel La uphill walk(youcanbepicked upfromthe .it; ViaRosa43;d€64-140; accommodation andfriendlystaff. inates theportandprovides enough pleasant €34/42; €9 cost between and €15. good restaurants attached. Mains generally All thefollowinghotels and Sleeping &Eating the general direction of the peak. which youcanclimb–justkeep walking in On theuninhabited western sideof theis- Hotel LaCanna Hotel Phenicusa Hotel The bestwayof visitingtheislandisby Alternatively, youcantake theroadthat Villa LaRosa Villa Giuseppe Taranto (Cane Reef), a long, thin stack of along,thinstack rock Reef), (Cane h ( ThiscavityCave of theMonkSeal). May-Sep) Pecorini Pecorini faraglioni

( % Thisboxy modernhotel dom-

Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels ( Valdichiesa %

090 9889965;www.villalarosa.it in , which isnothingmore ( as

( % 090 9889956;www.lacannahotel % . Just beyond Hotel La Just beyondHotel La 090 9889946;www.hotel 090 98890 11, 3683461315) Fossa deiFelci After anexhausting ) , alittlevillage with Punta delPerciato pensioni Grotta delBue Scoglio della (774m), have .

sirena.it; ViaPecorini d€130-180) Mare; just outside Pecorini. Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels it all and revel in some sun, sea andsolitude, it alland revel insomesun,sea ifyou’reHowever, lookingtoget away from and insomerespects hewasn’tfarwrong. clearly wasnotto MrDumas’likingortaste, The barren nature of thenortheast of Alicudi remained unchanged sincethedaysof chaos.’ earth forgotten bycreation andwhich has this unfortunate island…acornerof the der, more dismalanddesolate placethan wrote tohiswife: ‘Itishardtofind asad- visited Alicudiduringthe19thcentury,he When theFrench novelist Alexandre Dumas pop 100/elev675m ALICUDI and oneferry daily.See p151 for details. bythree hydrofoils summer Filicudiisserved ofwhich runsalongtheport.Atheight 988 9984) Siremar seas. summer canbecancelledduetorough ice isvirtuallynonexistent inwinter, andin The intermittent ferry andhydrofoil serv- Filicudi canbetrickytoreach forshortvisits. Getting There&Away Pensione LaSirena place toboogie. of nightlife, thenthediscohere istheonly you’re desperate forsome–nay,anytype foodisalsovery good.If Adelaide Rando’s lovely rooms,allwithbathroomandterrace. FILICUDI &ALICUDI ὄὄ To Cefalù Another good (60km) Same scaleasmainmap Alicudi

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( % Punta del Perciato 090 Filicudi Punta Stimpagnato contacted on port keeps erratichours. Thedoctorcanbe fsig boat. fishing to disturbyousave theoccasional humof a waters are clear andthere’s crystal nothing to reach As thesea. youwouldexpect,the where youwillhave toclamber over boulders the bestspotsare tothesouthof theport, around andfindapeacefulplacetosunbathe – way. There todosave isnotmuch else potter water asthere isabsolutely noshadealongthe sure andbringplentyof towearsturdyshoes to have taken refuge duringpirate raids.Be Femmine volcanoandthe Montagnole top youcanviewthecrater of theextinct two-hour trek upapretty rockypath.Atthe of theHarp; 675m)isclimbable; it’sahardy, The centralpeakof the Sights &Activities shops, anda in the1990s.There are acoupleof grocery thearrivalofwho onlysaw electricityandTV is hometoahandfulof farmers and fishers Todayit lengthyprisonsentences. to serve Island, withMafia prisoners here beingsent equivalentof astheItalian Devil’s it served andnomarked Foratimetaurant) roads. minimal facilities(onehotel andoneres- find intheentire Mediterranean basin,with is reduced toamere trickle on Alicudi. summer touriststhatvisittheAeolian Islands Bue Marino Grotta del Alicudi isthebestplaceforit.Thefloodof The islandisasisolated aplaceasyou’ll dei Felci (774m) Fossa , huge fissures where womenare said Pecorini Pecorini Mare Valdichiesa post office % La Sirena Pensione 0 0 090 988 99 13.

La Rosa ( % La Canna Villa Hotel Filo dell’Arpa 090 9889911) T YRHENIA Filicudi Porto Timpone delle Prehistoric S EA Village 1 mile Graziano (String bythe Capo To Salina

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181 AEOLIAN ISLANDS ISLANDS AEOLIAN AEOLIAN ISLANDS the above - ‘Do the right thingwithourcontent.’ the above -‘Dotheright thetermsandconditions onoursiteforalongerwayofsaying youknow,orresell it.See everyone site,mass emailitto only. Inotherwords, pleasedon’tuploadthischapterto apeer-to-peer Inreturn, wethinkit’sfair toaskyouuseitforpersonal,non-commercial purposes restricted. © LonelyPlanetPublications. iteasierforyoutouse,access tothischapterisnotdigitally Tomake Saturday andbookingsare via the website. uptofour. Itsleeps cal setting. runfrom Rentals €1000-1400) geous fromthemainland. brought bit of amystery asitdependsonprovisions where themenuisa you’lleatwell,although hotel has12roomsandagoodrestaurant Elena;d€130-170; Regina Hotel Ericusa Sleeping &Eating 182 For longer considerrenting stays thegor- H SAD • Aiui THE ISLANDS••Alicudi Casa Ibiscus Casa , atypicalAeolian inaparadisai- house

( % 090 9889902;www.alicudihotel.it;Via

(www.alicudi.net in Italian; weekly rate (www.alicudi.net inItalian;weeklyrate h Jun-Sep) This pleasant Thispleasant se p3 fr details). for p138 (see alsorunsfromCefalù summer-only service hydrofoils andoneferry daily(see p151 ). A bythree ofheight summer,Alicudiisserved Elena, which runsparalleltotheport.At Ustica Lines to reach. Both AeolianAlicudi isthemostdifficult Island Getting There&Away ( % The onlyrestaurant onAlicudiis 090 9889922;meals €25-30).

( % 090 9889912) Book yourstayatlonelyplanet.com/hotels Siremar

( % are onViaRegina 090 9889795) Airone and

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183 AEOLIAN ISLANDS AEOLIAN